Southern Utah Expedition, Part Three: Smokey Mountain/Grand Staircase-Escalante Expedition
Date: 7/4/2004
Trail Time: 12 hours+
Location: South of Escalante
Mapping / GPS / Waypoint File: gif Map Image (Main) / .MPS GPS File / .TXT Waypoint File
Trail Rating (1-5 scale): 2.5
Major Obstacle: Note: After leaving the smoky Mountain road the trail deteriorates and grows progressively more difficult. Navigation becomes a challenge. The narrows in Wesses Canyon should not be underestimated, especially in a full-size vehicle. The slot is narrow, with a camber tilting the vehicle towards the sandstone wall. Due to the tall grass and reeds this part of the trail is completely hidden and must be navigated with a spotter. If this slot is flooded, the trail would be all but impassable.
Brush (minor, moderate, severe): None on Smokey Mountain Road, The Wesses / Henry Canyon is severe
Scenic Value (1-5 scale): 4
Attendees: Scott & Stephanie Brady- 2004 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab TRD
Escalante Rim and a view into Carcass Canyon.
We wanted to explore the vast Grand Staircase-Escalante Monument in south-central Utah. The monument was appropriated by then President Clinton in September of 1996, and resulted in a 1.9 million acre mass of southern Utah, stretching for hundreds of miles. The route we selected remains almost entirely within the monument and covers over 115 miles of beautiful landscape, deep canyons, and incredible vistas. We passed through three major physiographic regions; The Escalante Canyons, the Kaiparowits Plateau and the Grand Staircase. Our journey started in the small town of Escalante located along Hwy 12, just east of Bryce Canyon NP. The start of the trail is somewhat obscure, although there is signage from the west approach. We turned south on 500 West Street (N37 46.221 W111 36.586 NAD83), which is the first major southern road upon entering the town. We passed rodeo grounds and continued south for about .5 miles until the road turned to gravel. At nearly 2 miles total, we crossed a cattle guard and entered the monument.
The Smokey Mountain Road is well graded while in Garfield County and is easily passable by a car before the left hand Collet trail that heads NE to intercept the Hole in the Wall trail. The road parallels the Kaiparowits Plateau, reaching an elevation of nearly 7,000', and crossing several dry washes before beginning its descent along Escalante Canyon. The road becomes slightly more challenging at this point, with a few steep grades, and one loose, rocky climb that would require some clearance. AWD or 4WD is recommended at this point to minimize damage to the road.
This portion of the trail had several section of "slick rock" comprised of hard sandstone. Petes Cove provides a beautiful view to the east from this 100' plus circular cliff.
Petes Cove area, looking east
The roughest portion of the Smokey Mountain Road
The last chance canyon area held several beautiful and rugged washes, with severely undercut sandstone and unique series of formations. Even though we were in a completely arid place, the impact of hydrology is never lost on those who travel through here.
From Petes Cove and Left Hand Collet Canyon Trail we continued south along the Caine Bench before turning west and descending the Heads of the Creek Road. This road leaves the main Smokey Mountain road just after Pilot Rock (N37 17.335 W111 31.430) and drops in elevation quickly. This road is very remote and rugged, further compounded by infrequent traffic. Route finding is also difficult (use the GPS track). the next 47+ miles of rugged road are not for the unprepared.
The trail almost immediately becomes washed out with a series of slick rock ledges and crossed axle ditches to stress the available traction. The trail is still well within the capability of a high clearance SUV or truck with an experienced driver.
Collard Lizard
After travelling about 2 miles to the west, we stopped the truck and looked back towards Ship Mountain Point, as the sun was casting a warm glow on its bow. The pictures do not give justice to the scene.
We made a left (south) at (N37 17.091 W111 34.380). The route to the right should also work, but we did not drive it. Turning left brings the trail to the edge of Stony Point Canyon. The greatest challenge of the trail is found in Wesses Canyon. There are a few abandoned trailers in the area, and the trail turns west at (N37 15.773 W111 35.397) and drops into a narrow gorge, followed by a sharp left turn into a notch no wider that a vehicle. The bottom of the notch ran for about 20 yards and was covered in thick reeds with a muddy bottom. This could easily be flooded during or after heavy rains. This is THE ONLY way to continue and must be negotiated. To further compound the challenge, the bottom of the canyon is cambered, leaning your vehicle even closer to the rock. The trail starts up again on the other side of the slot.
A very narrow slot in Wesses Canyon
The trail continues to be challenging as it runs through Wesses Canyon and climbs a steep exit hill to Long Flat and John Henry Bench. The trail runs for several more miles before we intersected with Tibbet Spring and a better defined route (N37 11.874 W111 37.137). Though not required, we decided to make a left at the intersection, and explore an overlook trail. This 20 mile detour provides a beautiful view of Page and the Glen Canyon. Back at the Tibbet Spring intersection, we worked our way up Nipple Bench, towards Nipple Creek, which is a large Riparian area making for difficult route finding. The trail continues after the spring along the (typically) dry Nipple Creek until the trail ends at the town of Big Water on US89.
I find that it is adventures like this that draw me to wild places, where the average person feels fear and discomfort. That is when I am most alive!
