Zaphod's Mod Thread...

[Zaphod]

Copying Datrupr's thread, this one will cover my rig. In my case, it's a white 2000 Trooper LS. I bought it back in September 2003 from CarMax.

I'll be proceeding slowly with the upgrades, as I'm in the process of moving to a new house and starting a new job, and I don't want to kill myself with debt.



Today's entry is the installation of a Calmini conical air filter. I bought this thing almost a year ago, and only now have I gotten around to doing the installation. Go figure. :(

Rather than describing the whole process in detail, I invite you to look at http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/calmini/hi-flow/?. I followed these directions and had no issues at all except the following:

1) Instead of a 14mm socket, I needed a 12mm.
2) The one bolt that is reused is different than the other two. I had to use the original bolt. Additionally, there is a rubber spacer component with a metallic tubular insert that must be utilized to ensure that the bolts seats properly and applies the proper amount of pressure to the Calmini mount.
3) There is a rubber gasket that fits between the MAS sensor and the OEM filter housing. It has a hose clamp around it, and that clamp is held in place by two rubber pieces molded into the gasket. I had to cut those two little pieces off (used a knife; no biggie) and used the hose clamp provided by Calmini. Press-fit the gasket onto the filter, and then the whole assembly onto the MAS sensor.

The whole project took me about 30 minutes, and even then it was mostly because of the confusion with the bolt and the gasket. Otherwise, the directions provided at the link above were perfect.

Driving around town, I noted a bit of zippier response, and a lower RPM thann I was used to seeing for a given speed. I still need to find a shield to install to block engine heat, and I've seen those on e-Bay.

Questions or comments are welcome.

Next project will most likely be my tires, brake lines, shocks, and manual hubs. I've also received my CB, and I'll be installing that as soon as I get the appropriate FireStik antenna. :ylsmoke:

[datrupr]

Very cool, I would be interested in the long term results of this product. Does it go intot he stock air box? If so, does the stock air box need to be modified? Will this unit work with a snorkel? Good job Zaphod, and keep us posted and lets see some pics!

[Zaphod]

Very cool, I would be interested in the long term results of this product. Does it go intot he stock air box? If so, does the stock air box need to be modified? Will this unit work with a snorkel? Good job Zaphod, and keep us posted and lets see some pics!

I'll post some pics later this week.

No, this unit completely replaces the air box, which is removed entirely from the truck.

Today I needed to stomp the gas to get on the expressway, and the acceleration was noteably better. It's no Porsche, but I'm happy.

That said, I've heard that the K&N drop-in filter is just as good (and abouthalf the price). I bought this before I knew that. The good side of this rig is that it opens up some space for things like an air compressor. It can't be something like a secondary battery, IMO, because there will be too much in the way of the airflow from the outside to the filter.

I cannot imagine using this unit with a snorkel, as doing so would require the manufacture of a box around the filter, which would defeat the purpose.


ETA: To tide you over until I get my pics up:


Before:

http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/calmini/hi-flow/stock1.jpg


After:

http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/calmini/hi-flow/installed1.jpg


For the record, my engine compartment is MUCH cleaner than this one! :Wow1:

[datrupr]

Cool, it is good to hear about the increase in power. I think I am going to have to pass on this mod though as I do hear a snokel in the future for the Trooper.

[Zaphod]

In your case, you may want to consider a K&N drop-in filter (which supposedly gives a bit of pep, but without removing the airbox), especially since I imagine the snorkel runs directly into the airbox somehow.

I just got my new rim for my spare and my Midland CB radio. My new tires and my manual hubs should be in this week. I'll keep you posted. :D

So...... WTF do I mount the CB antenna I don't yet have? :smilies27

I was going to put the mount on the spare carrier, but there's no room unless I mount it on the outside of the spare. It will be a quick-detach mount, so an ideas or suggestions will be appreciated.

[datrupr]

I would suggest a mag mount with quick disconnect, and then put it on your roof when it is needed, and you can remove it when you don't need it. Just my $.02.

[Zaphod]

Well, the new tires are on, as is the new spare rim! :jumping:

Before:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0389.JPG

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0390.JPG


After:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0392.JPG

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0393.JPG


The tires are Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos in 265/75SR-16. They provided about 2 inches of lift all by themselves, and I've decided to leave it there. I'll only be replacing shocks, but not springs, and the t-bars will be staying put.

The ride is NOTICEABLY better with these tires on roads. Much smoother and with better traction (I noticed it when braking). I am EXTREMELY happy.

Tomorrow, I'll be installing the Superwinch manual hubs, IF I can find a pair of fracking 26mm snap rings. Anyone know where I can find some? Lowe's didn't have them, and neither did any of the local auto stores.

A question related to the new spare tire. I got the installing shop to give me three spare lug nuts, and what I did was to turn the bolts backward so I can use these nuts for a better look (not seen above, BTW). Is there any real concern with theft of the spare? I can buy a wheel lock, and lock the spare and two fron tires (since they also have the hubs), but I worry about those things after a bad experience a few years ago. I can use a padlock, but then I can't install the center hub cover.

Should I be even remotely worried?

[datrupr]

I would not be too worried about it, I would suggest a locking nut for the spare, but that would be an awful lot of work to get the tires off the truck. And if they (the bad guys) really want your wheels and tires, they are going to get them. But, as the wheels are stock, there is not a huge black market for them.

Please give us a good write up on the the manual hubs too, as I am going to be doing this mod very soon as well.

The tire look good by the way, keep it up.:clapsmile

[Scott Brady]

The Superwinch hub kit should come with the snap ring. Mine did.

That will help your gas mileage for sure.

I really like the new tires, with the replacement shocks, you will be a happy dude :)

[Zaphod]

I'm afraid mine didn't come with the snap rings. Apparently they don't include them anymore. Bummer.

I'll be looking around for them, and as soon as I get them, I'll take the plunge.

My kit came with these two paper rings that fit perfectly over the hub body flange where it would meet the truck. Am I actually supposed to use those things? Instructions don't say anything.

In fact, the instructions aren't that great. Best writeup I've seen is on 4x4 Wire. Sadly, it doesn't address that or the snap ring, either.

As for saving gas, that is my primary reason for installing them. 1-2 MPG adds up quick these days.

Thanks for the comments on the tires. Next mod (which I'll be doing before I have the truck inspected for NC plates) will be a brake job that includes the installation of the Indy 4x braided brake lines. Brake performance is nowhere near as good as I want it to be. I also have to get my CB installed (just need the Firestik antenna and the mount.

Pics will follow! :jump:

[Zaphod]

Well, I have been completely unable to find 26mm Snap Rings, but I did find 25.5mm (1 inch). The guys at the local Isuzu TRUCK center gave me a set for FREE.

So, tomorrow I will be attempting the installation, and posting pics.

Pray for my success! This is the first modification of this type I've tried on my own! :Wow1:

[Scott Brady]

you will do great. Post some pics too :)

[kevin]

A 26mm snap ring is the same as 1 1/16th inch, perhaps those would be easier to find. I did a hub conversion as well, although not the superwinch hubs, however the factory spindles had snap rings on them, superwinch may have intended for the originals to be reused?

[Zaphod]

Okay! Here we go!

Today, after much waiting and gnashing of teeth over the fracking snap rings, I finally got the SuperWinch Hubs installed. It was much easier than I expected, and quite annoying in one or two aspects. I'll explain as I go.

This writeup applies to the 2000 Isuzu Trooper with TOD.

First off, remove the Isuzu hub cover that bolts onto the wheel itself. When it is off, you'll see this:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/01.JPG

The instructions tell you to remove the wheel to install the hubs, but I found out that 1) this is unnecessary, and 2) loosening the lug nuts and the hex nuts on the hub body is nearly impossible since the wheel rotates when you try to torque the nuts/bolts. Annoyance #1.

Anyway, once the wheel is off, you get the usual view you see when changing tires:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/02.JPG

Once the hub body bolts were removed, the outer cover (the black semi-circular cap you see above) easily came off, exposing the snap ring holding the hub inner body in place:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/03.JPG

Once the snap ring is removed (it was easy with the right tool), it took only a tap from a ball-peen hammer (and I do mean a TAP; the other one didn't even need that) for the inner body to come off:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/04.JPG

In the images above, the wheel is on in order to help me remove the hex bolts. The stuff in the second picture that looks like rust is actually old and nasty grease.

So, I was now ready to install the manual hub body!

I applied a generous amount of white engine grease to the inside of the body:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/05.JPG

and then ran a bead of gasket maker along the inside of the hub body:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/06.JPG

and installed the hub onto the shaft:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/08.JPG

This is where Annoyance #2 kicks in. It turns out that the OEM snap rings are 1 inch in diameter, and that you can reuse them, so I didn't have to look for them anyway! The picture above shows the ring installed. Take note that there is a small washer that rides between the hub body and the snap ring. I didn't notice it until I had finished the first hub and found it on the ground. I had to remove the outer body to install it. I doubt it's critical, but I figure it's better to be safe than sorry.

One thing I did was use the bolts and lock washers that came with the hubs. The kit one is the one on top, with an original for comparison. Sorry for the bad focus:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/07.JPG

I should point out that the extra threads the kit bolts have when compared to the OEM bolts do NOT engage anywhere.

So, with the hub inner body installed, along comes the outer body. I installed the provided washer and added a little grease to the splines:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/09.JPG

and then bolted them on to the inner body, and presto-chango, the portside hub is installed! :D

The left side took me about 45 minutes, but mainly because I had to take off the wheel, put it back on, take it back off, then put it back on again. The right side took me about 20 minutes, and then only because I had a hard time getting the snap ring on (it bound on something and gave me a bit of a run. It finally went in fine, though.

So, lessons learned:

1) This project is extremely easy. If you can turn a wrench, you can do this.

2) You do NOT need to remove the wheel to install the hub. If anyone knows a reason why you DO have to remove the wheel, please let me know.

3) You do NOT have to remove the outer hub to remove the wheel. FYI.

4) You do NOT need an extra snap ring, and you can reuse the one that's already there.

5) Tools required: Hex Wrenches (I can't remember the sizes, but it's for the inner body bolts and the outer body bolts), Snap-Ring remover, ball-peen hammer (maybe), grease. You may need a small standard screwdriver to help you with the snap rings.

I'm not sure if I notice a whole lot of power improvement, but there is no denying that the wheels now spin MUCH more easily, so I figure what I'll see is a slight improvement in MPG. Good enough for me, especially with gas going through the roof.

One thing I noticed is that if you turn the hub from 2x4 to 4x4 or back, the wheel needs to move forward or back just a hair for the hub to lock in the new position. No biggie, but something to keep in mind when you turn the control and don't hear that pleasant "click" that tells you you're ready to roll.

Hope this helps! The next project will be the CB. Just gotta figure out how the HELL to mount that thing inside my dashboard using the OEM mounts!

Oh! If I made any technical mistakes, please feel free to let me know!

[Zaphod]

The board code did not allow me to attach the final picture:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/10.JPG


:jump:

[flyingwil]

:Wow1: Looks great and nice write up!

[datrupr]

Very good job and nice write up. I think the hex wrench you need to get the outer hub assy. off is 8mm, and I want to say 5mm for the inner. I learned that from the whole axle fiasco. I am going to be installing manual hubs in the very near future.

[bootzilla]

Thanks for the write-up - it helped me out putting mine in last weekend.

The only thing I can think to add is that the torque spec on the hex bolts that mate the inner body to the hub is 48 ft. lbs. for the stock hubs, so that is what I torqued the new ones to.

EDIT - heh heh - I wasn't smart enough to read/notice that I didn't have to take the wheel off - I'm an observant one, aren't I?? Well, at least I got some practice jacking the thing up...

[Zaphod]

Yes, friends! I added another mod today! (Took me long enough...)

Today I took advantage of the fact that I felt my startup cranking was sounding a little weak, so I sprung for one of these:

http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive/deep_cycle.RowPar.0002.ContentPar.0003.ColumnPar.0 002.Image.9999.0.gif

Optima Deep Cell. Remember, I plan on adding lights to this bad boy eventually. :D

I also replaced the stock foglight bulbs with Sylvanias. MUCH better!

A few weeks ago I foolishly left my truck unlocked in my driveway and some subhuman vermin stole everything in it. As such, I replaced the stereo with a newer model of Alpine (the original one sucked anyway), and since I had the dash all opened up I also installed the remote display for my Valentine 1 (It now resides in that otherwise useless little cubby just to the left of the steering wheel.), voltmeter and oil pressure gauges (just like I'm sure you've seen on Vovkus' rig on PlanetIsuzu) and an extra power port. As soon as I have some pictures I'll post them.

Next up will be the heat shield for my Calmini cone filter, and then perhaps a roof rack and lights. Oh, I also still have to install my Midland CB.

[bootzilla]

Cool! I've had the Red Top for about 6 months now, and so far, so good.

Since the Alpine takes care of your CD player, are you gonna mount the CB in the din-space below the radio? That is where I want to put one, but I want to find a one-din sized CB that has a front-firing speaker...

[Zaphod]

Alpine CDA-9856:

http://www.alpine-usa.com/images/products/images/cda-9856.jpg

While it does have a CD player inside the head unit, I never use it as I have my iPod wired directly to it. MUCH better! :jumping:

Another minor complication is that the frame that comes with the stereo, when attached, prevents the head unit's faceplate from rotating open for me to insert a CD. I suppose I could make an adjustment next time I open the dash, but it's really not that big a priority for me. I kinda like the moore flush look anyway. Again, pics will post when I get them.

As for the CB, I've got the Midland 79-290:

http://www.midlandradio.com/comersus/store/catalog/79-290.jpg

It fits into the DIN slot under the radio (it's eventual home), but isn't wide enough. As such, I'm going to have to come up with some kind of moulding or trim to cover the sides. I also have to figure out a way to mount the thing in a manner that will allow me to remove it later should I need to, so just double-sided-tape mounting it is not an option (besides, there is no room vertically to slide the unit in then down onto the tape).

As for the speaker, I'm going to have to get an external one since the unit has it's speaker on the bottom, and it will be completely covered. I'll most likely mount the speaker in the dash just in front of my right knee.

Of course, if anyone happens to know of a real single-DIN CB radio with the speaker in front, I'm all ears. It's been almost a year since I did the research, so I reckon there are some new models out there.

One rather evil feature I'd be curious to see about is an amplifier for the CB. I recognize that they are illegal, but I'd want to wire it so I could keep it turned off for routine use but turn it on for emergencies when I REALLY needed to reach someone and getting a ticket would be the least of my worries. The problem is that I don't know a damned thing about installing or operating CB's, and even the great information on the Firestik website goes over my head like the space shuttle. :(

[datrupr]

I want to find a one-din sized CB that has a front-firing speaker...


Check out my mod thread. The Cobra that I have has a front speaker and fits perfectly in that spot. I picked it up at Wal-Mart for around $65 I think. Very easy to install and the speaker puts out enough sound that it can be easily heard. Here (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=753&d=1136317949) is a pic of it installed in my truck.

[Zaphod]

I'll be damned! I'd seen that one before and forgotten about it!

I went with the Midland because it has sideband and WX bands. Don't know entirely what sideband means, but I'll admit I do like having options. Don't ask me what I paid for mine, though. :mad:


Otherwise I hard wired it to the fuse block...

Whazzatmean? :confused:

[Zaphod]

From DaTrupr's thread:


My first investment would be OME firm shocks and heavy rear springs. It will transform the vehicle on the road and trail. And all for about $400 :)

I tried looking up those shocks and springs, but I only found these (http://www.arbusa.com/shock_absorbers_ltr.php). Are these the ones you mean?

Also, does OME or anyone else make replacement springs for Troopers that do NOT add lift? My truck (unlifted, but with 32" tires vice stock 29" ones) is as high as I want to take it (I think).

Thanks.

[datrupr]

Those are not the shocks I am looking at. Rocky Road has the complete set (4 Shocks & 2 Springs) all for just over $400. The shocks are not the resevoir set up though. As far as replacement springs? I don't know about aftermarket that does not add lift, but I am sure there are some out there somewhere. The OME set up only adds about 1.25" of lift, and with your tires you are only about a total of 2" higher than stock. Not much of a differance.

[bigreen505]

I don't think the OME 912 springs add much height, especially with some gear in there.

I would definitely consider the OME firm shocks. I currently have the Rancho Trooper shocks and extension/compression is a perfect match for a stock truck, but not a lifted one. If you are going with OME springs, stick with their shocks too.

[Scott Brady]

912's add about 1.5" when empty. I have run them for over 5 years now and they are great.

[bigreen505]

This is a silly question, but what exactly is stock height? I measure about 18.75" from the top of the stock Isuzu hub to the bottom of the fender flare with a reasonable load (gear, not people) with the 919 springs.

[Zaphod]

Well, I have some things that concern me:

1) I don't off-road much (not yet, anyway). I don't anticipate doing much in the near future, either, but I will have to deal with snow. As such, do I NEED a lift? Not really.

2) The moderate lift provided by the tires alone (1.5") SEEMS to have been enough to address anything I see having to handle in the forseeable future. Additionally, getting into and out of my truck is already a bit problematic for small kids and older folks. Not a big deal for off-road, but a bit of a problem for a daily driver (which it is, at least for now).

3) Since this IS a daily driver, I have some concerns over looks (shallow, I know, but there it is). I don't want to be driving something that just looks rediculously out of place on the roads.

Any suggestions, then?

[Scott Brady]

For your needs, just install four OME firm shocks and drive it. The Trooper has good clearance stock.

[Zaphod]

Roger that. I figure if I need to lift later I can always get OME springs and torsion bars and go to town. :)

BTW, are these (http://www.arbusa.com/shock_absorbers_nitrocharger.php) the shocks you mean? Aside from the others I linked above, these are the only OME shocks I can find on their website.

If they aren't, could you throw me a link, please?

[bigreen505]

There's only one shock, but each vehicle application is tweaked.

If you are running a completely stock suspension and don't plan to change the Rancho 9000x shocks are very nice and allow you to adjust the stiffness to suit changing loads and conditions. I never thought that was necessary, but I have to admit that I enjoy the ability, especially when travelling over washboard roads with an empty truck. Unfortunately if you are tweaking your suspension, either OME springs or the type of front suspension mods like the ExWest Trooper, there is no Rancho application -- the 99214 does not have enough extension and the 99136 does not have enough compression. The result in either case is blown seals. The OME and ProComps have the same compression as the short Rancho with the same extension of the tall Rancho, but it seems that the Pro Comp's may not be stiff enough, even though they seem too stiff on almost every vehicle. I guess it has something to do with the way the suspension works.

You might also look into Blistein 5100. There is an application that works for the Trooper, but that is all I know about them.

[Scott Brady]

They may only be bringing one shock in now. At the time I purchased mine, there was two choices: Firm and Medium

[bigreen505]

I should probably clarify my comment. There is at least a firm and medium, though at least one retailer sells a comfort version, but that might just be what they call the medium. I just meant that the OME Nitrocharger shocks are what you are looking for.

[Zaphod]

Okay, so we're looking at OME Nitrochargers in Firm.

What would I notice different on standard roads over the existing stock (and with 80K miles) shocks?

I assume I would have much less bounce off-road.

Sigh.... I'm never going to be done with this thing. :Mechanic:

[Scott Brady]

The truck will be transformed, both off-road and on.

Less pitch and sway and better handling overall. Best modification I have done to my trooper, period.

[bigreen505]

Yep, less bounce for the ounce, all the way around.

[Zaphod]

Wow. Cool!

Time to start shopping! :jump:

Will advise...

[datrupr]

This is a silly question, but what exactly is stock height? I measure about 18.75" from the top of the stock Isuzu hub to the bottom of the fender flare with a reasonable load (gear, not people) with the 919 springs.


Bill, I do not know for sure what the stock height is, but the stock ground clearance (measuring from the ground to the lowest point under the truck, ususally the rear diff but in the Troopers case the bottom of the rear mud flap, though only about an 1/8" difference) is about 9.5" (to the bottom of the rear diff). When I added the 265/75's my clearance went up to about 10.75". I don't know if this helps you out at all though.

[blupaddler]

How do you like your Alpine? You can control the Ipod through the deck itself correct? I want one, you just don't know what to expect, since you can't "test" drive them in the stores.


I have been looking at this model lately. Or it might be the 9857 model. I think the price was around $199 or so.


BTW...Nice Trooper.
:rally_guys:

[Zaphod]

Thanks. :)

Yes, this unit controls the iPod directly from the head unit face plate. Previously, I had a model with the touch bar across the bottom. AVOID THAT FEATURE LIKE THE PLAGUE. It is UTTERLY UNUSEABLE, and controlling an iPod with it is COMPLETELY impossible while retaining your sanity. In fact, since it is SO user-unfriendly and annoying, it is extremely distracting and thus DANGEROUS. Modifying something as simple as bass level requires a GD bachelor's degree. :mad:

This model uses the volume knob much like the touch control of the iPod itself. MUCH better. The bass and treble controls are also easy to get to. Of course, I STILL do not understand WTF Alpine insists that the Mix mode be turned off before you can access any playlists on the iPod. :rolleyes:

Sure, the controls could be a bit more intuitive, but they are infinitely better than that other POS Alpine model I had. My only other gripe is that I can't change the button color from blue to green, or turn down the brightness enough.


ETA: BTW, anyone know where I can get a replacement Winter/Power switch? I just broke the plastic extension on the back of the Power button while trying to get the switch assembly out to replace a blown LED. Krazy glue sucks, and QuikSteel didn't help, either. I'm quite upset. :mad:

[datrupr]

ETA: BTW, anyone know where I can get a replacement Winter/Power switch? I just broke the plastic extension on the back of the Power button while trying to get the switch assembly out to replace a blown LED. Krazy glue sucks, and QuikSteel didn't help, either. I'm quite upset. :mad:

Call St. Charles Isuzu. You can find contact information on Plantetisuzoo.com. They do give discounts for members of that forum, and if they don't have it, they will get it for you.

[Zaphod]

Some pics as promised:

The Calmini Cone Air Filter (I'll be getting one of those heat shields soon enough.):

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0672.JPG

The engine compartment, showing the Optima Yellowtop Deep Cell:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0673.JPG

Detail of the battery, included to show that I had to drill a hole in the bracket holding the battery so I could secure it properly. The hole in question is the one on the terminal side of the battery (away from the camera), and in which you see the threaded rod coming oup and being held by the nut. The mount to the frame is stock, and the direction of the closest rod in the picture was adjusted to provide more strength. The mount is rock-solid. The battery isn't going anywhere:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0674.JPG

Since we were discussion dashboards, here is mine so far. Please excuse the super-sexy skin-shot on the left side. ;)

The empty slot is where the CB will go (I may very well buy that Cobra we were discussing and just sell the Midland I have.). The voltmeter (right) works fine, but I haven't hooked up the pressure line yet (because I don't know how, frankly). All in good time. The power port (blow the stock cigarette lighter port) works fine. I'll eventually be installing another one in the cargo bay. The Alpine speaks for itself:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0676.JPG

Here is a closeup of my Valentine 1 remote display. It required me to drill a hole in the back of the pocket to let the wire through, but after that the display fits perfectly with friction only. I should point out that, for me anyway, the arrow display is PRECISELY behind the damned steering wheel from my line of sight, so I have to tilt my head one way or the other to see it when it goes off. Annoying, but definitely a clean install. I'm running it as-is to see if I can get used to it or if I find a better place for it later. If I choose to move it, it will be interesting to see what I do with this otherwise USELESS little pocket.

The two empty slots to the right of the stock foglight switch will eventually hold factory foglight switches controlling the lights I will eventually install on the front bumper and cargo rack:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0677.JPG

Just for general interest, this shot shows the lock I purchased and installed for my spare tire. The tire is held on by three bolts driven backwards through the mount so I can just use lugnuts to hold it on. The lock has a back piece that threads through a hole that must have been meant specifically for this use, and the keyed front portion screws onto the back. With my oversize tires, installing the rear part is a bit of a pain, but getting the tire off (assuming you have the key, of course) is a snap. Highly recommended:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0678.JPG

Finally, this is how I mounted my fire extinguisher way back when. The mount came with the extinguisher, and it's held on with two toggle bolts driven through the plastic of the cabin. Rock-solid and, as datrupr said in his thread, a perfect space that would otherwise be wasted:

http://homepage.mac.com/luismulet/.Pictures/My%20Isuzu/IMG_0680.JPG

Enjoy! :)

[flyingwil]

Looks good amigo! Who make's the spare tire lock?

[Zaphod]

Aw crap! I KNEW someone would ask that! :o

Lemme look it up. BRB...


ETA: Here's the link... (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200310773_200310773)

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/125583_lg.jpg

[4Rescue]

OK, I gotta know, where did you mount the Valentine sensors and can I get one of those display's online somewhere? I also have a V1 (if you think there's a better detector you're worng) and I love the thing, but I hate having it hang off my window... Your install is sweet, and I already have a location that would be great.

Cheers

Dave

[Zaphod]

The display can be bought directly from Valentine off their website.

I do not have any external antennae installed. The unit is stock and works like a charm where it is.

[Zaphod]

Uh.......

Any ideas why my manual hubs are corroding fast on the outside? The formerly polished-smooth aluminum has gone grey and pitted.

Ticks me off. I expected more durability. :mad:

[Pritch]

Where did you get your cargo mat with the cutouts?

[Zaphod]

It's a factory accessory. Can probably still get it through the dealer or Saint Charles, but heaven only knows the price...

[bootzilla]

Uh.......

Any ideas why my manual hubs are corroding fast on the outside? The formerly polished-smooth aluminum has gone grey and pitted.

Ticks me off. I expected more durability. :mad:

My Superwinches did the same thing.... it was accelerated by a week out on the beach after I first put them on, then an abundance of road salt over the winter, and they went from shiny and new looking to dull...

[Grim Reaper]

The corrosion on Aluminum actually protects the part. The only way to keep that from happening is coating it in some way.

http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MatSelect/corralumin.htm

[Zaphod]

Anyone have any suggestions on how or where to rewrap my leather steering wheel? Leather is in bad shape and a new non-leather steering wheel is $800 just for the part. :(

[Incusus]

Anyone have any suggestions on how or where to rewrap my leather steering wheel? Leather is in bad shape and a new non-leather steering wheel is $800 just for the part. :(


Ya, mines pretty eaten up on top... I think the former owner (lady) wore alot of jewelry on her fingers that chewed it up 0.0 I was planning on just getting a leather steering wheel cover and lacing it on nice and tight

[AZTrooper]

That's too bad to hear about your Superwinches. Fortunately for me, I live out here in the south west and it's bone dry. I don't have the salty air and water to corrode my troop. My steering wheel is in great condition. It doesn't even look used. (not to rub it in or anything):shakin:

[datrupr]

My Trooper did not come with a leather wrapped steering wheel, and it looks great too. Sorry to hear about your woes regarding this though.

[Zaphod]

So I was surfing through eBay looking for parts for the Trooper, and came across this photo:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l30/USNA91/IsuzuTrooperHeadlights.jpg

The ad was for the pneumatic arms for the hood. I'm tempted to get them. However, what REALLY caught my eye was the upgraded headlights.

I'm interested in them because it would seem that they'd open up posibilities for far better headlight lamps. Any ideas where these could be found?

[Incusus]

So I was surfing through eBay looking for parts for the Trooper, and came across this photo:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l30/USNA91/IsuzuTrooperHeadlights.jpg

The ad was for the pneumatic arms for the hood. I'm tempted to get them. However, what REALLY caught my eye was the upgraded headlights.

I'm interested in them because it would seem that they'd open up posibilities for far better headlight lamps. Any ideas where these could be found?


thats an interesting trooper, from what I can see of it. I do like those headlights! drop in some HID modules....

[Zaphod]

The Trooper has passed. :(

Yes friends, it's true. I had to put the old girl out to pasture this weekend. She was beginning to show her age and had left me stranded a few times. The lack of any Isuzu dealer support, the continuing oil-burning problems, and a sudden plethora of issues finally made me decide that it would be better if I let the old girl go.

I had sworn I'd keep her until she rusted away, but that just wasn't tenable anymore.

I now have a 2008 Toyota 4Runner sitting where the Trooper once sat. It is one hell of an upgrade, but still....

She's gone, but will not be forgotten. :(

LONG LIVE THE TROOPER!

[robertdarin]

noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!:(:( :(:(:(:(

[jl8088]

Rip......

[philndz]

I hope if she's dead that she's being sacrificed so that others may live on.

I feel like my '00 Trooper @ 130k is just starting its life......the better half anyhow.

-Phil