View Full Version : Isuzu to stop US production in 2009
gary in ohio
01-31-2008, 12:15 PM
Isuzu Motors, which helped popularize SUVs in the 1980s, said Wednesday that it will exit the U.S. consumer market on Jan. 31, 2009.
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2008-01-30-isuzi-exits-us-market_N.htm
Shovel
01-31-2008, 02:13 PM
I didn't realize they considered the ascender "being in the US market"
Scott Brady
01-31-2008, 03:49 PM
When the Trooper left, they left...
jingram
01-31-2008, 03:55 PM
Ugh... sad to see this happen, although after the switch to a purely GM based lineup, it seemed inevitable.
outsidr
01-31-2008, 03:56 PM
They will continue to manufacture parts for 8 years and honor vehicles with Warranty. They are re writing a service agreement with current dealers to make sure customers are taken care of. It is in result of GM retiring the platform early.
I am sure there are dealerships that will drop the franchise but it is a great time to get a deal on a Colorado platform (i-290,i-370) and I can ship parts to anywhere in the us for the next 8 years. Like the man said, make the lemonade.. I have Mahindra coming 1st quarter of '09 so it doesn't phase us.
Hltoppr
01-31-2008, 05:25 PM
Sad to see....but...didn't Toyota just purchase about 7% of Isuzu? I'm thinking we'll see some good things on the diesel front when Toyota's engineers chat with the Isuzu guys....
-H-
TACODOC
01-31-2008, 05:37 PM
I have Mahindra coming 1st quarter of '09 so it doesn't phase us.
:lurk:
Damn, i was just starting to like the 2000 Troopers too!:mad:
Incusus
02-05-2008, 04:25 PM
When the Trooper left, they left...
too true, although the handwriting was on the wall when they sold out to GM's unified platform bs in the late 80's :mad: :mad: :mad:
"yes! lets give away our engineering in return for financial backing and cheap parts only to have the rug pulled out from under us when crappy GM versions of our cars don't sell..."
*OR...*
"Hey guys, I have a great idea! lets take our take our Giorgetto Giugiaro designed, Lotus engineered Isuzu Impulse Turbo and give it to the Americans! Maybe they can turn it into a huge pile of crap and call it the "Geo Storm" or something...":oops:
Incusus
02-05-2008, 04:31 PM
Sad to see....but...didn't Toyota just purchase about 7% of Isuzu? I'm thinking we'll see some good things on the diesel front when Toyota's engineers chat with the Isuzu guys....
-H-
Sadly, probably not. Isuzu still has a joint venture with GM for diesel engines (Duramax), I'd I'm betting part of that agreement is not to share with the competition...:(
teotwaki
02-05-2008, 05:54 PM
This is really good news!
Almost every day on the freeway and the offramp I have Isuzu employees in new model company cars with dealer plates who are speeding, cutting folks off and never use turn signals while rushing to their building.
Good riddance to all of them.
(Yes, I've called and complained with specific info but no results and a generally uncaring attitude from them is my reward)
Incusus
02-05-2008, 10:51 PM
This is really good news!
Almost every day on the freeway and the offramp I have Isuzu employees in new model company cars with dealer plates who are speeding, cutting folks off and never use turn signals while rushing to their building.
Good riddance to all of them.
(Yes, I've called and complained with specific info but no results and a generally uncaring attitude from them is my reward)
wow... thats really... uh... WOW.
I'm not sure what to make of your post to be honest.
Yes! Less employment!
Yes! Less of a knoledgebase in the US!
Yes! Less options!
All for a minimally less crowded highway lane in one area of one city of one state?
are you serious????~??
98sr5
02-06-2008, 01:44 AM
is that guy serious
AKTrooper
02-06-2008, 02:39 AM
I own a 1998 Isuzu Trooper and the model has some amazing off road lines in that it is clearly designed to handle rough roads and heavy loads. I have also been complimentary in the past for it's over-all performance and ride characteristics. That said, the engine eats oil like there is no tomorrow and I find it amazing that this type of fault was let out for production from a company that makes more engines than anything else. I don't mind working on the Trooper as I can get at things and aftermarket parts are somewhat affordable, problem has been that something needs "getting after" almost every month and this has gotten old. My Dad was so impressed with my Trooper's performance he recently purchased his own 2001 model and I really hope he doesn't get nickel dimed to death the way I have been these past two years. Compared to Toyota or Honda I can see why they struggled to compete in the US and the writing seemed to be on the wall for thier exit these last few years. The only ones denying it was the Isuzu corporate newsletter so given this most recent announcement I wouldn't put much stock in anything they printed, past or present. No, in my humble opinion Isuzu needs to move on and leave this market with a few hard lessons learned about quality control and the level of competition this side of the pacific.
peekay
02-06-2008, 08:25 AM
I had a '93 Trooper, my first 4x4. IMO, the body on that SUV was perfect. Not too big, yet roomy as hell inside and with GREAT visibility. It makes the current 4-Runner feel like a coffin. The only problem was all the minor issues it had, particularly electrical.
Shovel
02-06-2008, 08:34 AM
Sadly, probably not. Isuzu still has a joint venture with GM for diesel engines (Duramax), I'd I'm betting part of that agreement is not to share with the competition...:(
I've been told, but have not personally confirmed that the 3.4L Toyota V6 has the same bellhousing bolt pattern and shaft size/splines as 60deg GM engines... and 2.5L chrysler I4's. And oldsmobile 4.3L diesels... and caddy northstars ;)
boblynch
02-06-2008, 12:39 PM
I had a '93 Trooper, my first 4x4. IMO, the body on that SUV was perfect. Not too big, yet roomy as hell inside and with GREAT visibility. It makes the current 4-Runner feel like a coffin. The only problem was all the minor issues it had, particularly electrical.
I agree completetly. Best combo of storage, visibility, and offroad handling I've driven in an SUV. Wish the GM/Izuzu partnership would have built on this platform rather than the parade of brands that have failed since. A "Power Wagon" edition of the Trooper (f/r lockers, skid plates, manual tranny, cloth interior, integrated winch, upgrade wheels/tires, etc.) with the upcoming Duramax 4.5L diesel would be terrific. IMHO this body style would be vastly superior to the H3.
Bob
Incusus
02-06-2008, 04:18 PM
*snip* That said, the engine eats oil like there is no tomorrow and I find it amazing that this type of fault was let out for production from a company that makes more engines than anything else. */snip*
I was suprised as well, but I hear the problem was fixed in the post-2000 troopers. Unfortunately since part of the fix was to reengineer certain parts of the head, its not exactly easy to retrofit the old ones.
I have a '99 and was able to alleviate much of the oil burning by a combination of flushing the engine and using certain oils & additives. One thing I would definately advise you to stay away from is Mobile's Mobile 1 "performance" filters. In the process of trying different oils and filters, it seems using that one gunked up my engine and started the oil burning all over again.
anyway... try this on your next oil change:
Go buy the following: a PCV valve, a can of brake cleaner spray, a bottle of Seafoam (not the spray) case of cheap 5W30 (I like Partsmaster stuff from Genuine Auto), an inexpensive filter, 2 containers of Gunk motor flush, 6 quarts of Royal Purple synthetic (Mobile1 synthetic will work, but not as well as RP) and a decent oil filter (I like Frams filters, but have had luck with the less expensive WIX/Partsmaster ones as well). This should all run you about $100. Trust me, its worth it.
now- go dump the can of Seafoam in the crankcase. Drive it like normal until the weekend (at least a few days).
On the weekend- park the truck, set the brake.
Step 1: Dump 1 can of Gunk flush into the crankcase and let the truck idle for about 10 minutes. Do Not drive the truck. Let the truck cool for a few after idling, but not too long. Dont want the oil getting thick. Drain it as well as possible, crack open a frosty beverage and replace the pvc valve while waiting. Remove the old filter, let the block drain. Hose off the oil filter mount on the block with the brake cleaner until it runs clear, then put on the "cheap" filter. Hose off the drain plug and replace.
Step 2: Fill the crankcase with the less expensive oil (about 5 quarts I think? Check the capacity..) and go for a drive. Take it out for about half an hour or so, avoiding highway speeds and stop and go traffic.
Step 3: Bring her back to the garage, set the brake and dump that next can of flush in. Restart the truck and let it idle for 10 minutes. Don't drive the truck. Shut it down and let it cool. Lube the u-joints while waiting ;). When cooled a bit, drain again and remove the filter. Have another frosty bev while awaiting all the oil to drain again and check your tire pressure ;). Hose off the drain plug and filter mount with brake cleaner again and let dry.
(by the way, the oil coming out when you drain it at this point should be darker, but still reasonably clean. If it looks realy bad, consider dropping the oil pan and cleaning it which is outside the scope of this...)
Reinstall drain plug and new "good" filter. Fill with the Royal Purple synthetic, and take it for a short test drive. Bring it back, let it cool completely, check for leaks from the filter and drain plug, doublecheck oil level and add if necessary.
From here on out, try to stick with a "genuine" synthetic (Royal Purple, Mobile 1, and I think Amsol makes one...) and change your oil <i>before</i> 3500miles.
Some might call this process a waste of oil but frankly, this <b>*completely eliminated*</b> my oil burning issue until I changed oils to a lesser synthetic, and even then I only had to add a minimal amount of oil beween changes. IMHO, I think spending a bit more on one good engine cleaning like this and using a good quality "true" synthetic is cheaper in the long run than having to add a quart of oil every 1k miles and certainly works better for the engine in the long run.
For what it's worth, I've been experimenting over the last year with different oils and filters, and the Royal Purple/fram filter has worked out far and away the best. Keep the second half of the case of cheap oil around in case you want to repeat this process again sometime in the future.:rockon:
Incusus
02-06-2008, 04:21 PM
I've been told, but have not personally confirmed that the 3.4L Toyota V6 has the same bellhousing bolt pattern and shaft size/splines as 60deg GM engines... and 2.5L chrysler I4's. And oldsmobile 4.3L diesels... and caddy northstars ;)
Oh REALLY...
:wings:
I know my trooper's tranny should match up to the northstar motors... I wonder if I could get a Toyota diesel's engine control unit to play nice with my transmission control unit and the borg-warner TOD unit. If so, that makes for interesting possibilities. :D
AKTrooper
02-09-2008, 07:46 PM
Thanks for the information and I did find all the items you outlined at the local parts store. When the cold weather breaks, I will give your advise a trial run. One question, what weight RP oil did you find works the best?
Thanks again,
Dennis
Zaphod
02-26-2008, 03:47 PM
Damn, i was just starting to like the 2000 Troopers too!:mad:
Don't let this stop you! I LOVE mine! Won't get rid of it for the world! :smiley_drive:
Zaphod
02-26-2008, 03:56 PM
Oh REALLY...
:wings:
I know my trooper's tranny should match up to the northstar motors... I wonder if I could get a Toyota diesel's engine control unit to play nice with my transmission control unit and the borg-warner TOD unit. If so, that makes for interesting possibilities. :D
SPECIFICS, man! SPECIFICS! Some of us here can barely turn a wrench, let alone speak Gearhead. :o
Are you suggesting that our beloved Troopers could actually be retrofitted with a TOYOTA engine?
Man, if that's true, I'd be all over it like a bad rash! :drool:
What would be the considerations WRT the computer and such?
Shovel
02-26-2008, 04:20 PM
Just don't forget that the 4l30e is not really "enough" for a vehicle as heavy as a trooper to begin with... putting more power into it is a good way to guarantee you'll be rebuilding the trans too.
If it's any help, I remember reading once that the Toyota A43DE is effectively the same transmission, and both were used interchangeably at various production times on 1992-up Suzuki Sidekicks. May mean nothing, may mean more frankenstein possibilities. I used to spend hours at the U-pull-it yards just seeing what fits what, somehow it got old. These days I just turn the key and drive with the windows down and the radio up, don't care what engine is pulling me along.
Zaphod
02-26-2008, 04:42 PM
These days I just turn the key and drive with the windows down and the radio up, don't care what engine is pulling me along.
Believe me, I hear ya!
My thing is that I simply want to know that A) the engine pulling me along is supremely reliable, that B) it doesn't burn oil, and C) it gets the best gas mileage possible when compared to the performance.
Beyond that, Daffy Duck could be strapped to the driveshaft for all I care. :o
Incusus
03-04-2008, 08:37 PM
SPECIFICS, man! SPECIFICS! Some of us here can barely turn a wrench, let alone speak Gearhead. :o
Are you suggesting that our beloved Troopers could actually be retrofitted with a TOYOTA engine?
Man, if that's true, I'd be all over it like a bad rash! :drool:
What would be the considerations WRT the computer and such?
I had originally heard about the Northstar thing from this guys website:
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/trooper/AuroraSwap.html
I have no honest idea if it would work, but having the trans and engines simply bolt together is a pretty big step in the right direction! If the new Toyota diesel has the same bolt pattern.... we could be on to something.
Maybe I'll try it, but not until this engine is shot, needs replaced, and I have another car to get to work in!
madizell
03-04-2008, 11:37 PM
Bolt pattern is only a part of the problem of mating dissimilar drive line parts. Clutch diameters, transmission nose cone diameter and length, clutch throwout device design, clutch build height, all have something to do with whether two parts will work together. Certainly if the pattern matches, life is simpler than when it does not, but it takes some creativity to make it work. I have two Jeeps. One has a Ford 5.0 mated to a Dodge variant NV4500. It takes an expensive adapter to put the two together, as well as a transmission input shaft with the proper diameter and spline count and length. But it obviously can be done. The other Jeep has a Buick V-6 (factory option for 1968) but a Ford T-18 transmission. The transmission bolt pattern does not "match" but two of the holes do, and two others are easy enough to make happen, so it can be bolted directly to the GM housing. However, the combination requires a GM flywheel and clutch cover, and a Ford friction plate, and the input shaft and nose cone had to be shortened, and the front bearing retainer needed machining to reduce the diameter to GM proportions. It also required a pilot bearing with a GM outer dimension and a Ford inside dimension, which only exists if someone makes one from scratch (Novak does, bless their hearts). Whether all these changes are simple or difficult depends on your perspective, but to say that they "bolt together" is stretching it a bit.
Personally, if you want to drop a Toyota motor into an Isuzu, I would transplant motor and transmission and transfer case as a unit. Much simpler and almost certainly doable with mild fabricating skills. If output locations differ from the original, then I would also include the Toyota axles in the swap. Find a roll-over wreck as a donor, buy the whole vehicle, take what you need, and discard whatever is left over.
Shovel
03-05-2008, 01:10 AM
Clutches aren't much of a problem since we're talking autos here ;)
all of the 60° chevy 6's, the northstar v8's, the isuzu 3.5's and 3.2's, the jeep 2.5L I4... they all will bolt onto the same Isuzu-fitted 4L30E, turn the input splines, and otherwise operate. Those swaps I've read about having been done. Rumors exist that the Toy 3.4 and the Suzuki L- I4 family, and the Olds 4.3 diesel (no relation to 4.3 GM petrol v6) will also bolt, spline, and otherwise work - but I've seen no evidence, just rumor. It's a place to start, in case anyone's looking for options. The next step would be to hit a U-pull-it yard with a couple buddies and start turning wrenches to see what fits.. not a step for me to perform though since I've got the drivetrain I want already ;)
AKTrooper
03-07-2008, 04:04 PM
In this thread is a post outlining a series of engine flushes combined with using a Royal Purple synthetic oil-Fram filter combo. Now I don't want to overstate things just yet, as I only have a couple hundred miles on the odometer since I followed the posts instructions to the letter, but it hasn't burned any oil since. Mind you, in the past I was going through oil at the rate of 500 miles to the quart so this is already an improvement over that situation. We all know the problem and complained accordingly, this just might be a solution that actually works so consider it and I will keep people updated as I have a 1500 miles road trip set up next week. If it comes back as hoped, then this will be considered a fix by me after years of thowing countless quarts down the crank.
ZooJunkie
04-06-2008, 07:14 AM
It only affects their passenger vehicles. They are still selling their service trucks. Maybe a nice Isuzu cab over w/ 4x4 in a diesel flavor?
It's sad that they've decided to part their passenger vehicles. :(
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