Truck Camper Construction Costs?

[Nitromethane43]

In the past few weeks I have been looking at various motor homes, trailers and truck campers at local local dealers, one thing that stood out was how poorly they are constructed even the high end ones. Many seemed to be very flimsy with very low craftsmanship levels. Being unable to find something that seems suitable to my likings the decision is to go forward with a custom made one. With most of the parts priced out it seems to be quite high for parts alone, for this price a fairly fancy truck camper with slide outs and other unnecessary dodads could be purchased.

I was wondering how the manufactures get by with selling truck campers at less than half of what I have budgeted out for parts. It would be nice to hear some of your experiences in a camper purchase or construction. And let me know if there seems to be something wrong with the planned budget.

http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/23/00A/4B/FF/73/51/Qu8qbdVEzywdrkR0q0+ov5oOTzDBk6jh0300.jpg

[milo12]

Very nice list. Are you going with a solid fiberglass wall construction? I do not see any foam core in the list. If you are going solid fiberglass it will be rather heavy. Also how will you form the body? Molds and fixtures can cost more than the finished part for a one off.

Another item missing is all the fittings you will need. Everywhere there is a pass through or a hard point, door frames, window frames, all hinges screws bolts etc. It adds up quick. I saw the $3242 buffer but I think you can easily spend that on all the little details.

[OutbacKamper]

I can't help too much with specifics, but I can tell you that a friend in Australia built a custom one-off camper thinking that he might built more to sell. The first (and only) one he built cost him about $25,000AUD in parts and materials not to mention untold 100's of man hours. He figured to built them and make a profit he would have to sell them for $45,000 IIRC. This camper was significantly better quality than any North American factory made campers that I have seen, but wasn't quite Earthroamer quality either.

Most typical North American made RV's are very cheap compared to European or Australian. For example a 16-20' trailer that would cost $15-20k here would sell for $35-40k in Oz. There is no magic, you get generally what you pay for.

BTW one thing that you may not have taken in to account is that RV companies buy all the parts at wholesale prices, probably less than 1/2 the retail price.

Cheers
Mark

[Nitromethane43]

It's going to be made out of a fiberglass and foam composite, so weight is reduced greatly from a solid fiberglass construction.

For the door I was planning on going with am aluminum frame with an fiberglass door panel. The windows would be a similar aluminum frame fitted with double glazed tempered glass. Aluminum would come from work and also fabricated there. But I agree with you on the small stuff adding up very quickly, just working on my boat the stainless steel hardware and marine grade electrical connectors costs a great bundle.

Thanks for addressing the issue with American made recreational vehicles, I thought it might have been my perspective, even looking at some of the $200-300k rv's they still seem to be made with poor construction. I wonder why the industry does not have similar quality standards to our marine vehicles.

[OutbacKamper]

I wonder why the industry does not have similar quality standards to our marine vehicles.

I think you just have to read some of the comments on this and other forums regarding the price of EarthRoamers to know why there are not many rv's of this quality. The majority of us are not willing or able to pay $90,000 for a small highly capable high quality RV, or $250,000 for a fullsize one.

I have read that the Chinese will soon be exporting RV's to North America and I can only imagine how that will affect the price and quality!

Cheers
Mark

[Nitromethane43]

I have read that the Chinese will soon be exporting RV's to North America and I can only imagine how that will affect the price and quality!


That would be really bad, a few years ago I rented an RV based off a Toyota truck chassis in China and the walls seemed to be as flimsy as a cardboard box and the interior was worse than a child's play set. This may not be a good representation of all of China's RV's but if they are anywhere like that then we might be in trouble.

[Nitromethane43]

Here are some of the final exterior drawings for the camper.

http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/22/007/7E/BF/52/25/lYw3agBz64mq32CWkQMeF0Cac7noTRJK0300.jpg

Floor plans of the interior layout, I am undecided about which toilet to use either an Thetford C-403 which has an awkward seating position due to having a bump out from the bed, or use the new C-250 which I unsure about their availability in the US. The dinette are may also change to accommodate more storage, it's still being worked on.

Let me know what you guys think and any suggestions to help improve the design, thanks for the assistance it's greatly appreciated.

Hopefully the build will start in a few months after everything is worked out.

http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/20/001/21/A5/60/F4/L1Cna9ekbVRd4B1VmPZ3B9oGIs0mvG+D0300.jpg

[OutbacKamper]

It looks like you have put a lot of thought into your design. I am no expert, but I do have a few minor suggestions:

-weight distribution: put all the heavy stuff as far forward as possible. For example locate the batteries, and water tank at the very front of the floor. One practical suggestion to help achieve this goal is to swap the location of the right rear storage and dinette areas (ie: move dinette all the way to the back)

http://www.northern-lite.com/graphics/litecenter-04-1.gif

-windows: I would suggest a significantly larger window at the dinette and I would eliminate the window at the front of the cab over (they are the most prone to leaks)

-you are going to need a step to get up to the cabover bed, so you might as well have a built-in cabinet in that location for additional storage.

-Safety: Many commercial RV's have an escape hatch over the cabover in case of a fire that blocks access to the rear door. Your design would nor allow this unless you relocate the solar panels.

I will stop for now, but will gladly continue if you are game.

Cheers
Mark

[Nitromethane43]

Thanks Mark, if you want go ahead with the suggestions as this is going to be a first time experience with a build of this kind, so I am also learning along the way.

Weight distribution is a challenge, right not most of the heavy items are are located under the bed rail height, when moved forward they would have to be located higher due to wheel wells. Would it be better to have weight down low but further back or up front and high?

The front window can be removed, and the solar panel and vent can be swapped for an escape hatch. Would a 14"x14" vent be sufficient or does it need to be larger, I can fit through 12"x12" attic access openings without any problems.

I think the cab window will be eliminated, with a built in unit to function as steps and store batteries, this should move a quite a bit of weight up front.

Thanks for your assistance, and any comments are appreciated.

[eugene]

As OutbacKamper said, heavy stuff should go in front. A lot of campers have access holes and mount the batteries in the space in front of the wheel wells. It just makes a small extra step before you unload as you then have to open the access cover and pull the battery in.

I see a lot of un-necessary items. Do you really need a coffee maker< can't you just make coffee in the microwave (I don't know I can't even stand the small of burnt beans, I mean coffee).
Some of the prices seem crazy to me, like the interior lights, I could buy chandeliers for that price. I have about a dozen vehicle dome lights that I've spent less than $50 for all of them and they look nice. The faucet prices are higher than whats in the kitchen and bathroom in my house.

[Nitromethane43]

Here's a revised layout

http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/23/001/73/6F/16/C3/DAU90mBpGEiXu3Ogbt1vILtu-HCjh-uB0300.jpg

[OutbacKamper]

Nitro;
I like the revised layout.

If it were me I would consider using Dometic/Sietz arylic windows rather than tempered glass. Advantages: lighter weight, better thermal performance, built-in blinds. They also make a very nice opening skylight/hatch
http://www.dometic.com/enie/International/Site/Caravan/Windows-Systems/

A questiion about the bathroom: Your design appears similar to most commercial truck campers.... Have you ever used this type of bathroom? If you have, and you like it then great. But for me they are just too small and crowded. Since your design does not have a basement, you will have to raise the bathroom floor in order to provide drainage from the shower. This typically results in VERY restricted headroom. I am 5'10" and can't stand up in a NL or BF bathroom in this style of camper. Possible solutions are 1) provide 6" =/- basement for drainage under the bathroom and general storage under the rest of the camper 2)eliminate the indoor shower and 2nd sink and just have a much roomier toilet cubicle 3) make the bathroom bigger (?)

http://www.camec.com.au/images/1351-005a.jpghttp://www.camec.com.au/images/1351-020.jpg

Cheers
Mark

[egn]

Weight distribution is a challenge, right not most of the heavy items are are located under the bed rail height, when moved forward they would have to be located higher due to wheel wells. Would it be better to have weight down low but further back or up front and high?


I would recommend to make a Excel sheet to estimate the weight distribution by entering the distance from one of the axles for each item. This should not only done for the fixed installation but also for removable items, water/fuel tanks (full/empty), ...

Otherwise you may be suprised how the weight is distributed after you are finished. And you should not only look regarding the weight on the axles, but also regarding the wheels and center of gravity. If you have everything prepared then it is easy to see how everything changes when you place an item.

I have done this very carefully and now have a nearly even distribution of the weight on all axles.

[Nitromethane43]

Is there a US supplier for Dometic windows and toilets, they seem to have innovative products.

The bath area becomes limited by protrusion for bed clearance which the sink rests on. It is fine for my use since the upper part opens up with 6' ceiling height measured from the shower pan, just very little standing room. Guests will just have deal with this inconvenience or use an outdoor shower.

I really like the second shower pictured below, laid out very nicely with function in mind, maybe that can go in expedition camper later down the road.

This is what inside looks like, the blue highlights are what makes the bathroom small.
http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/21/003/7F/73/F0/DC/LEKSG4Irc1V6bX6-8cjTT-3kRYdpQ8dD0300.jpg

An elevated shower pan with a holding tank below it. A method of stopping splash out and odor still needs to be worked out since it drains directly in the tank with out a p-trap. I was thinking about a spring loaded flapper fabricated in the drain, or just use a positive locking drain stopper that would be removed for shower use and installed during all other times.

http://shutter06.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/21/001/73/7E/96/1C/CEhzUSlGV4P9zf6FLMiAxN8WOAedSLed0300.jpg

[boblynch]

I'm by no means an expert, but will offer a few observations. Nice work so far - wish I had your CAD skills.

I did not see a cooktop on your latest sketch or parts list. Consider adding a small diesel cooktop to go with the Espar.

It may be helpful for everyone commenting to know what truck/chassis you are going to use (or at least the cab-axle dimensions if the truck has not been selected).

Dometic has a dealer/service locator on their US website. http://www.edometic.com/

Bob

[saltamontes]

agree about the "stick and staple" manufacturing done by most TC makers.

but have you looked at Bigfoot or Northern Lite? (Canadian)

fiberglass molded, dometic windows, clamshell design (much like a boat).

[Nitromethane43]

egn - Do you know what the formulas would be for calculating cg and axle weight,with regards of items placed on the vehicle or is there an spreadsheet that is already set up? This would be a very beneficial tool in allocating placements while in the design process.

boblynch - The truck is going to be a long bed Dodge Ram, right now I have an diesel 3/4 ton regular cab, and a 1/2 ton quad cab one, I am trying to find a good 98 12 valve quad cab long bed truck, everyone seems to be keeping them or they are sold in a very short amount of time.

I have looked at the Wallas, Dickson and Teleflex units, but cooking inside within the small confines does not seem very appealing, considering the odors and mess created during the process. Most of the time a portable butane stove or grill used outside is sufficient for meals.

Does anyone think it's a must having an indoor stove/cook top?

[Lynn]

I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind someone else jumping into the conversation.

I, personally, would be concerned about all the work necessary to 'fair' such large, flat surfaces when using fiberglass mat. Have you considered using NidaCore (http://www.nida-core.com/english/index.htm), like Turtle V (http://www.turtleexpedition.com/vehicles/turtle5.php) and the the SuperCamper (http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/) used?

Or making your own foam-core fiberglass panels using home insulation foam and filon fiberglass sheets?

Reason I ask is because I am thinking of doing something similar, so am trying to learn from you!

I imagine that either one of those will drive your expenses up, though.

With regard to your kitchen question, my dream is to have a removable kitchen that can be used either inside or out.

Robert Riley (http://www.rqriley.com/index.html) designed plans for a camper that was in Mechanix Illustrated years ago that had a removable kitchen, but it looks pretty unwieldy to me

http://www.rqriley.com/imagespln/b-camp2.jpg

I think something like that, only modular (so as to be more managable), would be just the ticket.

'Course, you could always just have a counter to throw your Coleman on in bad weather...

[eugene]

I always wondered, why the second sink in the bathroom, why can't you position the kitchen sink beside the bathroom and use it. That would free up some space in the bathroom.

Another thought if you remove the tailgate and make the camper hang slightly off the end of the bed you could then have the shower drain lower without needing a basement. thats an option I am looking at, drop the floor in the rear to where its sitting on the bumper just a foot or two, enough to for the shower floor. I guess I need to back up a step too, I'm looking at mounting waste water tanks under the bed in some of the open space.

[boblynch]

Lynn, I agree cooking outside is preferred most days. I've always thought it would be nice to have some type of pull out system for the kitchen (see example). Another idea would be some type of removable shelf on the camper side near the access door where the cooktop is stored.
16469

[OutbacKamper]

Does anyone think it's a must having an indoor stove/cook top?


Having spent 9 1/2 months continuously, in a camper that did not have any interior cooking facilites,..... Yes!

I prefer cooking outside 95% of the time even in cold weather, but occasionally in extreme weather conditions or when in areas with extremely high numbers of insects, it would be nice to have the option to cook inside.

[OutbacKamper]

agree about the "stick and staple" manufacturing done by most TC makers.

but have you looked at Bigfoot or Northern Lite? (Canadian)

fiberglass molded, dometic windows, clamshell design (much like a boat).

As the owner of a NL camper (which is consistently rated higher for quality than BF) I can tell you that there is very little difference in build quality. The 2 piece fiberglass "clamshell" is great but everything else is the same "stick and staple" quality. My camper has the same aluminum frame and glass windows as most other campers. There are only a few of the newest models that are available with dometic/sietz windows. All the hardware, fittings, appliances, etc are the same quality as any other camper I have seen or owned. The plastic fittings on the exterior deteriorate in sunlight just like any other camper. It may have a 2 piece fg shell, but that shell has lots of penetrations for fasteners, doors, windows, jack brackets, etc and these are prone to leakage just like any other camper.

In summary the 2 piece FG design is better, but the build quality and materials used is/are not.

Cheers
Mark

[Nitromethane43]

Lynn - Actually the Super Camper built by Tacodoc was my inspiration on starting this project, then realizing how many campers are constructed fairly poorly both interior and exterior ensured that this is a suitable solution for my personal preferences.

Construction is going to consist of an 1-2" high density foam core wrapped around with fiberglass cloth on both sides forming a sandwich construction similar to what is used on surfboards, some boats, and some aircraft. It would be similar to Nidacore panels when completed.

Having a removable kitchen seems unique, that one shown appears to be slightly cumbersome. One idea might involve having a removable counter and quick disconnects for the sink and stove hookups, then devise some sort of bumper mounting holding it outside along with the hookups.

I hope this can be a learning experience for all of us and I would be interested in seeing what you have planned.

OutbacKamper - I am really surprised to hear that you say Northern Lite campers are still of the same construction inside just like everyone else. I guess it is like the higher end RV's I saw, the dealer claimed solid wood cabinets, furniture, and quality materials, yet they still look and feel the same as an cheaper one just with more expensive materials.

Would you recommend gluing items when possible over using screws and bolts reducing penetration points in a camper?

eugene - You bring up a good point at lowering the rear for an shower drain, right now it should be fine with 15-18 gallons of grey water capacity under the shower pan.

It's really the blue highlight from sticking with a traditional bed that causes space issues. When the interior is closer to being finalized I will do some renderings or walk thoughts so everyone will have a good idea of how things are placed.

For cooking I usually use a portable stove similar to this one pictured, even at home it is used to cook things that get messy or causes odor problems in the patio.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/413TAKF1RPL._SS500_.jpg

I truly appreciate all the comments and suggestions that have been provided they are really invaluable in reducing the amount of mistakes or reworking once in the build process, this really helps minimize the amount of time spent exploring and figuring things out while building.

[gjackson]

Have you considered getting rid of the truck bed? That will give you more layout options and more weight distribution options.. If it a one-off build, then you don't have to cater to anything. . .

Like the ideas here!

cheers

[egn]

egn - Do you know what the formulas would be for calculating cg and axle weight,with regards of items placed on the vehicle or is there an spreadsheet that is already set up? This would be a very beneficial tool in allocating placements while in the design process.

I have stripped down the spreadsheet I used, but left some lines in as examples. At line 1 you enter the wheelbase. At line 4 you enter the weights at each axle. In the lines below you enter the total weight of the item you place and the distance from the 1. axle. A positiv value is behind the 1. axle, a negativ value is in in front of the axle.

To add further items just insert lines within the blocks, not at the end or the beginning. Otherwise you would have to change the formulas of the totals.

The units of the values don't matter as long as you use always the same for weight and distance.

Regarding building material I would try to get ready fiberglas enforced sandwich panels with polyutheran core. At least here in Europe they are available with a lot of different thickness for the foam and the fiberglass. Making such panels by your self is possible, but a lot of work. And If you don't work very good than there is the risk of getting uneven surface.

Have fun,
Emil

[Nitromethane43]

Thank you for supplying a spread sheet, so locations of items are based off distance from the front axle is this correct?

[egn]

Thank you for supplying a spread sheet, so locations of items are based off distance from the front axle is this correct?

Yes. Please download the spread sheet again, one formula was missing.

[Lynn]

Lynn - Actually the Super Camper built by Tacodoc was my inspiration on starting this project,

Sorry, Nitro, I'm confused. I was referring to the one built by the folks that go by SuperCamperos on this forum. Here's (http://www.thesupercamper.blogspot.com/) their blog.

With apologies to TacoDoc, I've seen his taco build thread, but no camper. Maybe I'm missing something.


Having a removable kitchen seems unique, that one shown appears to be slightly cumbersome.

Slightly? I think you're being too polite. That's why I said that I was thinking that a modular unit would be better. Maybe one cabinet with the cook top, another with the sink, etc. Of course, you would want them to be weatherproof, so an additional benefit is that you could design 'em such that you could use 'em in your back yard when you're not on the road.


I hope this can be a learning experience for all of us and I would be interested in seeing what you have planned.


Well, I didn't want to confuse your build thread, but since you asked. :)

I had a thread over on www.expeditioncampers.com, but I don't think it got migrated over here. Sorry, I haven't done any eDrawings, so I'll have to try to describe the ideas.

My ultimate dream is based around a chassis-mount camper, and would incorporate a drop-down patio like this one from Lonno Offroad Yachts:

http://www.lonno.it/wp-content/gallery/extremecamper/ExtremeCamper%20ACM80%2001.jpg

(another really cool patio is the one designed by Rob Gray (http://www.robgray.com) for WOTHAHELLIZAT 1:)


http://www.robgray.com/wothahellizat/15721.jpg

I would build the kitchen along one wall (let's say the drivers side) and design it such that it slides out, thru a hatch, onto the patio.

To utilize the 'freed-up' space inside, I envision a dinette in the back along the passenger side. It would be made up of a couch and two chairs. With the kitchen inside, the chairs would attach to the couch to form a U-shaped dinette. With the kitchen outside, the chairs can be disconnected and moved to the free space. The dinette table would swing down and away from the couch to become a coffee table. The disconnected chairs could also be used on the patio.

And, of course, the couch would make down into a bed, futon-style, with the chairs stowed underneath.

I did some rough sketches, and thing this is do-able, but the kitchen counters would have to be narrow and the dinette pretty narrow as well, to allow a usable walkway between the kitchen unit and the dinette.

[Lynn]

To further hijack your thread...

User Kerry just posted a link to an expocamer on ebay France that has a patio, as well:

http://i19.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/d6/4e/6202_1.JPG

[Nitromethane43]

Sorry, Lynn, I got mixed up, you are correct it was SuperCamperos who built that Nidacore camper and Tacodoc started th thread on it. That was the one which really got me thinking about going with a custom fiberglass camper.

You have some good concepts going for your camper, I hope everything works out for you and end up with a vehicle that suits your needs.

If a slide out kitchen is a desired feature, those trucks with porches should accommodate an entire bank of slide out cabinets with counter and all appliances, just have an end panel larger than the cabinets and counter covering the wall and have the entire assembly on slides. Similar to current RV slide outs, but not fully enclosed.

It would be a dream come true to have a medium or heavy duty truck with a chassis mounted camper for extended expeditions or for full time use. It would be quite a while before I would need something like that, maybe sometime down the road one will be made.

[saltamontes]

As the owner of a NL camper (which is consistently rated higher for quality than BF) I can tell you that there is very little difference in build quality. The 2 piece fiberglass "clamshell" is great but everything else is the same "stick and staple" quality. My camper has the same aluminum frame and glass windows as most other campers. There are only a few of the newest models that are available with dometic/sietz windows. All the hardware, fittings, appliances, etc are the same quality as any other camper I have seen or owned. The plastic fittings on the exterior deteriorate in sunlight just like any other camper. It may have a 2 piece fg shell, but that shell has lots of penetrations for fasteners, doors, windows, jack brackets, etc and these are prone to leakage just like any other camper.

In summary the 2 piece FG design is better, but the build quality and materials used is/are not.

Cheers
Mark


i suppose i should qualify "stick and staple" construction as first that applied to the interior casework and second as applied to the shell construction.

true, the interior of nearly every camper is glued/stapled laminate and plywood. They do this both for cost and for weight. I would rather see upgrade options to solid wood, composites, marble, etc.. but they mass manufacture this stuff so customization suffers. Regarding the weight savings, i have no problem whatsoever and applaud NorthernLite for their weight conscientiousness, something increasingly ignored by manufacturers. I think anyone considering building from scratch should consider the weight penalties of outfitting the interior like earthroamer and should make sure they are w/in the stated capacities of the carrying vehicle. Probably be cheaper and easier to upgrade a few interior components rather than build from scratch, yes?

the clamshell construction of NLite and BF, while having the same roof penetrations, benefits from not having the seams and every corner of the camper. IMO, this is a major benefit in terms of both structural integrity and weather tightness. Natcoa.org has some pictures of various shell cross-sections and if all that were available were "stick and staple" shells, i too would be looking to build instead of buy. I own a NLite camper also and if there is any consideration for buying vs. building i assume the purchase would be a newer model many of which come stock w/ Dometic windows if that were a major decision factor.



apologies for hijacking this thread w/ Chicken Little talk.. but my understanding is that the new Dodges sold today expressly state that they are not rated for campers (its a note in the glovebox or something). "Quality Construction" usually means "Heavy Construction" so keep that in mind before we jump all over the TC manufacturers for "Low Quality", lets factor weight into the equation (esp if one intends to carry it on a domestic, full-size SRW truck).

Additionally, considering you are looking at a LWB (CrewCab?) truck, is this rig meant to really boonie-bash? Because the breakover and weight (potentially) will limit its off-road capabilities.

Most campers on the road today are overloading the truck carrying them. This puts all of us sharing those roads at risk. Additionally, in the event of tire/axle/wheel; truck failure (and God forbid injuries) your ins co may deny coverage, exposing yourself to potentially serious liabilities. There is a reason why TurtleV and earthroamer are on a F550 chassis.

I think we all would opt for Charlie Aaron's unimog as the ultimate expo vehicle if $ was no object. Unfortunately, i want to expo today and i have not the time to build from scratch. I suppose this site is all about the custom build.. but my advice is maybe buy a cheap used TC you can expo today while you fine-tune your requirements for the ultimate custom build.

i will now duck behind this chicken wire as y'all start chucking empty beer cans at the killjoy.

[OutbacKamper]

saltamontes;
You don't need to duck behind chicken wire, at least not on my account. I actually agree with everything in your last post.
However just because I may be traveling in a truck with a $5000 camper for economic reasons doesn't mean that I can't dream about my "ideal" expedition camper, or enjoy discussing someone else's dream. Besides it is more fun to discuss our dreams sometimes, rather than our real lives. Personally I love these types of threads, we can live vicariously through some one else's build or adventure.

Cheers
Mark

[Nitromethane43]

saltamontes

You do bring up dome relevant concerns about weight, as many trucks with camper, trailers, or RV's are overloaded beyond a vehicle's capabilities. Weight is a concern that is being addressed the camper shell should only weight between 200-500lbs depending on how fiberglass is laid and how much reinforcement gets installed. For some reason major items for outfitting in systems and appliances alone adds up to almost 1500lbs without furniture. It would be nice if I went out and purchased a new ton vehicle to build upon, for all the other days when not in use it would just be sitting there eating up funds, there's enough of those already.

As far as needs go everyone has different situations and preferences, it would be nice to find something that fits my needs and my likings, after looking at what's available in the market I have not seen anything appealing. One fast and cheep alternative would be adding a solar array, generator, and off road trailer tires to the boat, for a nice amphibious expedition setup.



I was wondering what kind of camper mounting solutions are out there besides bumper/frame mounted tie downs, as the camper is not wide enough to use those. Many people have posted some Australian versions mounted on flat beds, have not really seen what kind of hardware is used on those.

[egn]

What happens when the truck is overloaded you can see here:
http://www.explorermagazin.de/isl03/isl03170.jpg
Photo taken from http://www.explorermagazin.de/isl03/isl0319a.htm

http://www.baikal2007.de/pic/rahmenbruch.jpg
Photo taken from http://www.baikal2007.de/reise.shtml

Overloading your vehicle is no good idea, especially when you drive on rough roads or go offroad.

[eugene]

Funny they are both nissans. I went to a nissan dealer since they were the only one who makes a quad cab small truck with a 6' bed. You could jump up and down in the bed and make the frame bend enough to make the bed and cab touch, I knew then the frame was too flexible.

Weight is a major issue with todays RV's, as others have said most are overweight when you buy them, then you put in all your crap and fill the water tank and your unsafe. Thats why I ask if you need all that stuff, coffee maker, microwave, ac panel, etc. Go as minimal as you can.

I'm keeping mine as narrow as possible, its not going to be a live in for a week camper, more of a base camp where we can sleep if we want to. More of a big truck cap than a rv camper. No 120v wiring, an automotive fuse panel using those mini atc fuses which match the truck. Lighting will be automotive dome lamps from trucks and suv's. Minimal plumbing and what I do have is using vinyl hose rather than pipes, etc.

[Nitromethane43]

egn - I agree with you that disastrous results can occur when an vehicle is overloaded beyond it's limits.

Had a similar incident occur with a new Kodiak box truck that I drove across the country loaded with all sorts of metal machinery, it drove fine for the first 1/4 of the way then slowly the box and cab came into contact with each other, after this occurred the truck did not drive straight or handle properly, making it an agonizing journey from driving slowly to keep the truck on the road. Lucky it was only a rental and I'm going to keep a careful record for this project.

Eugene - You are right about some of the stuff, there are things that can go to help reduce weight, like generator and microwave along with some other items if necessary. Right now most of the weight comes from batteries- 330lbs, water- 250lbs, and fuel- 360lbs, just those items alone along with supporting items make up over 1000lbs. I thought the idea of carrying a portable uv sterilizer, filter and pump to fill up using some natural water sources to reduce some water weight.

I also wanted something that is as narrow as possible, it's designed to stay close within the truck's width shown in the front view.

[eugene]

eliminating some of the electrical load may let you cut down on batteries. Drop the appliances and 120v lighting then recalculate your run time from battery. Thats why I'm keeping low voltage, no microwave, coffee pot, no inverter, 120v fuse panel, etc. I figure there are 100-200lbs in all that.

[Rhode Trip]

My camper has the same aluminum frame and glass windows as most other campers. There are only a few of the newest models that are available with dometic/sietz windows.
Cheers
Mark

I was told recently by a dealer that the factory can retrofit the Dometic windows in older models. I made inside acrylic storms for mine that have made a substantial difference in cold temps.

[805gregg]

While I think making your own camper would be great fun. I built a chassis mount camper on my '53 chevy truck in the mid 60's. I lived in it for 6 months. I think the time and expense would be better spent enjoying, rather than building. I bought a Lance 9.5 foot camper for my Dodge 1 ton SWR, it's great, been to baja, and this year to Vancover island. The used camper cost $5000 and is quite comfortable for 2. My truck takes the 2800 lb camper no problem. They told me I would need airbags to hold the camper, wrong, the camper just levels out the truck. I can't do true off road but dirt and baja beaches are ok. If you build keep us informed with pictures.

[eugene]

sometimes you have to make something when what you want isn't offered. All the truck campers sold today are nicer than my house.

[toyfunraider]

Not all of us are looking for raised panel oak fit for my mother. Less weight = more gear.

[Nitromethane43]

I'll keep you guys updated when the build starts, it should begin shortly after may or when I get back from China in August. Hopefully the resin will cooperate under these higher temperature conditions over here in vegas.

I know a lot of people must be wondering why not just by a off the lot camper and call it done, sometimes the build can just as enjoyable as any expedition if not more.

Does any one know of any good Dometic distributors located in the states, I would really like to see their windows and get a hold of their CT3000 cassette toilet for the camper?

[boblynch]

Does any one know of any good Dometic distributors located in the states, I would really like to see their windows and get a hold of their CT3000 cassette toilet for the camper?

Search for Northstar or Northern Lite truck camper dealers in your area. They both use Dometic acrylic windows you could look at. DometicUSA's customer service center claims you can order cassette toilets from any of their US dealers. Good luck and keep us posted on the build.

[zb39]

Any updates on this project.