Make Tacos Not War...FJ45 Wanderings in Mexico.

[Hltoppr]

I'm a firm believer that every expedition has to have a purpose; a "theme" which guides the route and provides a bit of a goal, and I'm too type a-retentive to not at least try to plan for all contingencies. Contrary to my beliefs, this little trip came together a week prior to departure. The final theme came to us at the end; so much for preplanning!

Initially a motorcycle trip, my 1150 GS Adventure was prepped and brought up to spec. New battery, fork seals, oil change, etc. Then my riding partner had a nagging back injury...not good to try and throw around a 600+ pound motorcycle off road....

So...the decision was made...the trip to Mexico would be done in the newly acquired 1983 FJ45 Troop Carrier! :safari-rig:

Now, I really didn't have time to fully prep the rig and get what I would consider adequate spares for the old girl, so with a wing and a prayer we changed fluids, bled the drum brakes, scavenged some points, condensor, radiator/fuel/heater hoses....and stocked the tool kit with JB Weld and bailing wire. It's a Toyota right? It'll hold together, and if it doesn't, since the non-US model consists of 1975 technology...we'd be able to cobble it together if necessary!

Add to this the fact that I'd not driven the Troopy for any distance other than a 200 mile trip to Prescott, AZ and back from Flagstaff to pick up the tires from ExpeditionsWest...what the heck...let's drive 2000 miles through some of the most remote areas of Mexico and Copper Canyon...what could go wrong?

:sombrero:

Packed and ready to go! The Engel is all you really need for Mexico!

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High lift lubed and bolted to the front bumper; along with the essential fridge accessory on the bullbar...

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Plus...we had the Spirit of Steve Irwin with us! Crikey!

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The old school adventure begins! More to come!

-H-

[Scott Brady]

So awesome, so purely awesome!:bowdown:

It is just what ExPo needs right now too. All of the natives have major cabin fever as reflected in the recent threads here. All we need is a little adventure in an old FJ45 from Australia to keep us distracted :)

[Ursidae69]

:lurk: :lurk:

[articulate]

This is how a trip report should begin. I'm digging the style, the theme.

:chowtime:

[gjackson]

:iagree:

Very cool!

cheers

[RHINO]

this'll be a good one i just know it, go make them tacos!!

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

C'mon. Let's see the trip. I hope you have lot's and lot's of pictures.

[kcowyo]

Steve Irwin? I thought it was a Chris Marzonie action figure...


Not so patiently awaiting more....:lurk:

[mountainpete]

:lurk:

[ckkone]

Looking forward to the rest, to me this sounds like the essence of an adventure!

[4Rescue]

BAH!!! Damn work server blocks the pics!!!! The write up is great, bnut I want some visual stimuli to go along with it... Just might have to K-proxy this one ;)

Cheers

Dave

Edit: Kproxy to the rescue... Lookin good... lookin REAL good...

[desertgirl66]

Really looking forward to the way cool photos of the beastie rig in action! :sunflower

[MoGas]

This wallows in the shallow end of the Sea of Lameness.....Subscribing nonetheless.

Welcome back. I'll have to get you the pics of that BioD 100 from Japan that was in town while you were out adventurizing.

[RobinP]

We're going through the "Oh my god I don't have enough time to get everything done" issues before our trip to South America this summer.

Thanks for keeping the perspective! Raenelle has dubbed me the HITTAG guy, (Hop-In-The-Truck-And-Go) but sometimes it seems like a bit much.

I'm now back to my carefree, irresponsible, just get on with it and go self!

Looking forward to reading more.

[slooowr6]

:lurk:

[HongerVenture]

Sweet action! Let's hear more... and see more pics.

[computeruser]

Looking forward to more pics.

Thanks for the report - after a long winter and a perpetually too-busy schedule, knowing that somebody is off having fun and being spontaneous is inspirational!

[Hltoppr]

As I'm sure everyone can attest to...the day before we leave I have to give a midterm exam in a college class I'm teaching, and have several work related fires to put out...keeps me in the office until 7:30 p.m.....ugh...

So, bright and early Thursday (March 13th) morning, I head out to the garage and finalize the fridge install, and run a 12v plug to the rear of the Troopy; throw some clothes in a bag, the tent, chairs, table and sleeping bag are stuffed under the cargo area. Extra food from the fridge, and a 6 pack of Pacificos and we're just about ready to leave! My buddy Dave drops by with some fuel line and heater hose, and heads back to his place to pack.

I throw together a bracket for the XM radio...gotta have BBC news, right?!

...funny...the brakes just don't feel quite the same since I bled them last weekend...hmm...maybe I've just got a bit of air in the master....I'll deal with it later...just remember to pump the brakes for now....:confused: Gotta love the efficiency of 4 wheel drums.

I kiss the wife and kiddo goodbye and head out of town to pick up my riding/driving companion, who comments that this is the easiest trip prep he's had in a long time....speak for yourself, man....

We hit the interstate and I crank through the H41 transmission's 4 gears, then shift into overdrive, using the Fairey componentry to gain essentially a 27% fifth gear. The Cruiser settles in to a GPS monitored speed of 65 with no complaints!

We stop for lunch (it's 2:30 p.m. or so) at Camp Verde, about an hour south...where the Cruiser basks under a large Anasazi fertility god....

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Then on to Tucson; fighting Phoenix traffic...at least with the Alternative Fuel (petrol/lpg) designation on the Troopy, I can use the HOV lane....hmm...gas guage doesn't seem to be working right....I've used less than half a tank to Phoenix...maybe it's broken...we'll find out if we run out of fuel...maybe I've got just enough dregs of lpg in the other tank to start her up again?

In downtown Tucson, we find a local bar, the Iguana lounge, and have some of our first Mexican food of the trip...it's an "eclectic" crowd...I make a comment to Dave that we are the only folks in the place whose tattoos weren't done in prison....:smileeek:

After cruising (literally and figuratively :bowdown: ) down 4th Street, watching the hippie gals go about partying, it's on to the Motel 8, where we fall asleep to the sounds of domestic violence in the room next door....Mexico will be a welcome destination.

The next morning we're both up by 5:30, and out the door to find breakfast. A local coffee shop does the trick. At the "A Shot in the Dark" coffeshop, we sidestep the "doorman", who is sitting in a chair in the entrance alcove...sleeping...or deceased....we're not sure. Later, the figure rises and moves off...

The Troopy is still holding together!

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Heading out of Tucson, we finally stop for fuel....let's see: 274.7 miles, 16.2 gallons....16.9 MPG!!! Amazing! Dave doesn't believe me when I give him the figures...:sport_box We'll see!

Next Stop...Fish Tacos, Beaches and Sunsets!

O', and the incident with the cow eyes....

-H-

[Ursidae69]

Great start. I'm hooked. More more more! :coffeedrink:

[BajaTaco]

Andrew, this is good stuff! Hey by the way, I was talking to a friend here in town the other day, and he was raving about this wicked expedition rig he saw in Flagstaff... couldn't stop talking about it and how he wished he had one. Guess who he was referring to? He was stoked to see it pictured in some of the shots for the med-kit review in the Overland Journal Gear Guide.

Hey, by the way, one night I was sitting at the bar in the Iguana (the bar you mentioned in Tucson), and the guy next to me struck up a conversation. Finally he said "you really have no idea who I am do you?" I said, "no I don't, should I?" He loved the response, proceeded to buy me beers and shoot the bull. His name: Dick Butkus (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dick_Butkus)


Steve Irwin? I thought it was a Chris Marzonie action figure...

:xxrotflma

[Hltoppr]

The Troopy draws the good type of attention...and is a really great way to meet with like-minded folks!

I guess all the cool people hang out at the Iguana Lounge! It is perfectly situated across from the bus station!

....more to come on the Chris Marzonie Action Figure....:hehe:

-H-

[Speaker]

You best keep writing this, instead of hanging out at Macy's. Yeah, that's right, I saw your GS down there.

[BajaTaco]

You best keep writing this, instead of hanging out at Macy's. Yeah, that's right, I saw your GS down there.

Busted!

[Hltoppr]

Without coffee...no workee....:peepwall:

Of course...I'm hanging out here instead of really diving back into paperwork....

-H-

[FourByLand]

I miss Tucson!Good story so far!

[bovw]

Love the wing and a prayer attitude!

[Hltoppr]

We crossed the border early in Nogales, using the truck route to hopefully avoid some traffic...we had promised to call our spouses as soon as we crossed, but the "iron curtain" of cellphone reception fell within 200 yards of being in Mexico...o' well....on went the SPOT beacon; sending its "Doin' Fine!" message to my wife's cellphone.

It's always somewhat of a jolt to drive in Mexico...I have some general rules, to which I'm constantly adding:

1. Speed limits in Mexico are merely a suggestion. (Seriously, you're gonna get run over if you go this slow....)

2. Maps of Mexico are merely a suggestion. (Roads come and go...conditions vary...there may or may not be a big lake there....)

Immigration at Nogales is one of the better run locations; everything from tourist visas, copiers, and a Banercito for vehicle permits is located in a central location, just South of Nogales. If you're going, it'd be a good idea to know the requirements, as very little guidance is given as to the process, and, unlike in the US...most signs are in Spanish only....

So, visas and import sticker on the Troopy, (we'll be travelling out of the Free Zone of Sonora), we take the turn West to our first stop, the town of Caborca; about an hour and a half away. The road turns out to be brand new, and we fly along the Southern Sonoran Desert at 100kph. (The OZ speedo in the Troopy is now very useful!)

Arriving at Caborca, we're surprised to find a pretty well to do town, complete with several auto dealerships, and a full array of retail shops, including what appears to be a popular lingere store named simply "The Sexy Shop"....so much for translation....

Gassing up, we once again average 17.4 mpg! It's not my imagination....this Troopy is one of the most efficient expedition rigs I've owned! (outside of motos, of course.)

A friend had recommended a restaurant, Mariscos El Terry, so we start the search....mariscos being seafood, for those who are wondering. We both have a hankering for some fresh fish tacos. After a bit of asking directions from locals, we find it, and sit down for lunch.

Like many places in Mexico, this is an open air "taco stand", on somewhat of a larger scale....we immediately know it's gonna be good...lots of locals, families and upscale patrons, dressed in casual business attire. Getting in the groove, we both brush off our dusty spanish skills and soon have some fresh guacamole, chips, cokes and beautiful fish tacos at our table.

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Mmmm....good eats!

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Both the rig and occupants being fed, and some dirt roads on the dessert (desert, more appropriately...:rolleyes: ) menu....off we go to some little known beaches....our choice of Punto Lobos to the Southwest, or Puerto Libertad, further to the South.

Taking a left onto a farm road, we hit dirt soon enough. The road is good, sandy, with some washboard; but the OME suspension soon shows just how good it is by sucking up all the sudden whoops and rocks; allowing us to make good time at about 40-50kph. Unfortunately, I realize that I hadn't quite yet installed the new rear door weatherseals...so a thin layer of silt begins to bellow in the rear...'doh!

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We reach a decision point about 40 kilometers into the road, we can continue West, and to a beach called Punto Lobos...one way in, one way out, which would require backtracking the next morning...or Southwest towards the town of Puerto Libertad...which we know nothing about.

At the turnoff, we find a sign, indicating about 50+ miles to Puerto Libertad, not bad.....but, scrawled, in English, on the fence pillar next to the road is a warning...."Puerto Libertad....8 Hours...Too Rough"

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We both know from experience in Mexico, these types of warnings are often times more accurate than the maps (See: Mexico Rule #2), but not wanting to backtrack, we dive into the road to Puerto Libertad....we're in a Land Cruiser!

-H-

[Hltoppr]

Turns out to be a beautiful road; narrow, rocky, sandy in places, but nothing that the Cruiser can't handle with ease....about 60 km in, we pass a road grader....I don't know where from...and the road is cake...dusty, but easy!

The first glimpse of Puerto Libertad is a glint off the Sea of Cortez, and the 100+ foot smokestacks of the local electric power plant...hmm...didn't know THAT was there....so much for totally pristine beach town...

We bump down the main street of a typical coastal Mexican village...Pemex station, lots of dogs, meager residential housing, and a coastline full of small fishing boats; bringing in the day's catch. A side road leads us away from the townsite, and down to a nice set of abandoned palapas, alone save for a single pickup about 300 yards down the beach; occupied by a local couple who are obviously more into each other than a couple of gringos....

We park on the beach, break out the lawn chairs, crack a couple of Pacificos and some cheese from the Engel....and think of you guys and gals at work....

The weather is here, wish you were beautiful....:wavey:

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putting essential expedition equipment to a torture test...:costumed-smiley-007

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La vida es buena...

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-H-

[Haggis]

That Troopie is a beautiful sight sitting on that beach. It's nice to know someone is getting sun and warmth somewhere and having some fun. Now I'll fade back to the mud, rain and snow that is PA in March and dream of warm days and dirt under my tires.......

[efuentes]

You guys gotta get all the way down to Los Mochis, I'll put some pacificos in the ice chest for you.

Saludos

[articulate]

What a scene of perfection:

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/269920803_mmJxD-M.jpg

How long before the condos and golf-playing gringos arrive?

[p1michaud]

Some times, the best trips just happen...:safari-rig:
I'm enjoying the read and pictures.

[greenhorn]

man, I gotta get out west and make a trip to mexico. Awesome report.

[kcowyo]

Don't be a tease. More, more!


So far, so good... :lurk:

[Hltoppr]

After a wonderful night's sleep, listening to the waves crashing on the beach and watching the stars, we pack up and head into the town of Puerto Libertad for some fuel and hopefully some breakfast.

After dodging some dogs, we find the only local spot that's open, and wander in through a nice, cool, courtyard full of bright purple bougainvillea to the "bar" area, where we're treated to the full gamut of VHS recordings of TV singers of the 70s in Spanish. In perusing the menu, which is written in black marker on yellow posterboard, and taped to the wall, we order some fresh Mexican eggs and huevos rancheros, but are curious as to one item on the "tacos" list....."Tacos de ojo."

Our Spanish isn't that bad...but we have to ask....Eyes? Really? Of What?

Ojos de vaca...is the answer. Well, to be on the menu, SOMEONE must like 'em, so we order a couple....when in Rome, right!?

While they're being made; right before OUR eyes, we converse as to what to expect....consistency, taste, etc. all are topics. The eye tacos finally arrive...looking somewhat like BBQ....

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Dave confirms that these are indeed staring back at us....

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We tentatively bite into breakfast....hmm....kinda tasteless...kinda like slimy chicken fat....not bad, per se, but not something that I'll be ordering in the future....

So, at least the other breakfast items were much more tasty!

The streets of P. Libertad:

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We head on down the paved road heading Southeast from P. Libertad, with our destination being the colonial town of Alamos, inland and Southeast of Ciudad Obregon, and the site of a thriving expatriot community. Alamos was featured in the film "The Mexican" (Brad Pitt & Julia Roberts), with it's narrow streets and early classical architecture.

We finally hit the Quota, or toll road, outside of Hermosillo....kinda expensive for what you get...it's windy, of course, and the road conditions are, well, interesting with 25 year old Land Cruiser steering. Signs stating "Orilla Peligrosa" litter the side of the road....and no, it doesn't mean that there are dangerous gorillas hiding everywhere, but hints at the fact that there are really no road shoulders in most of Mexico, only a 6 inch to 20 foot dropoff which spells immediate rollover doom to all who dare allow a tire to go over it....seriously, we saw at least three accidents in three hours! :Wow1:
Combine this with the practice of allowing cattle and horses to graze in the median...and you've got some interesting driving!

The toll booths are generally quick, but we get stuck in traffic at the last one before Ciudad Obregon for about an hour....crawling along with trucks, buses and passenger cars. Closer to the booth, vendors besiege the traffic selling everything from Cokes to CDs and handmade furniture....

We're almost to the toll booth when we watch the car in front of us buy a CD from a street vendor...then proceed to not have any cash left over for the toll...we both try not to become "ugly americans."

After more pavement, we arrive at Alamos in the late afternoon, and find a nice hotel on the central plaza which has an espresso machine! Streets are narrow, mostly cobblestone, and the town is dominated by a colonial era Catholic church which is a sight to behold!

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We take a moment to relax, then wander about the quiet streets, find some dinner and a couple of Tecates, and watch an Easter pageant put on by the local kids on the plaza. Later, we check in to the local dive motel and fall asleep to the sounds of roosters (obviously their timing is off!) and dogs...Mexico is never quiet, but it doesn't bother you!

Next Up....more dirt and some wrong turns...I hope we have enough fuel!

-H-

[BajaTaco]

:lurk: Thanks H, we're enjoying the tale. (side note: Did you know Caborca is Prescott's sister city (http://www.prescottsistercity.org/)?)

:cow: < I think I found the cow who's orbs you were feasting upon. Sounds delicious! I admire people who are willing to try new dishes in faraway lands.

[Hltoppr]

I did not know that! Good choice!

-H-

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

I'm "Eating" this up.






ok bad joke, great pictures.

[viatierra]

God bless this thread.

[mountainpete]

It snowed here last night. This thread makes me happy :coffeedrink:

[Bill Beers]

Great thread! I'm really enjoying reading it.

-Bill

[Hltoppr]

We arise the next morning to the same thing we fell asleep to...roosters; having just thrown the sleeping bags on the beds provided by the motel...I was really glad I didn't have one of Chuck's "scorpion" black lights for that place....

Foregoing breakfast, we were eager to hit the road to El Fuerte to the South. We had a road log from Efuente's web site, and were going to try and follow it. (Thanks, Sir!)

Before heading out of Alamos, we took a side trip up to the lookout area, which gives one a bird's eye (not more tacos...) view of the city. Really incredible!

Head South from the Plaza...and look for the sign!

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From there we hit dirt; another good road...although we did run into some traffic.

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The road log was going pretty well, until we started seeing roadwork...then...the most beautiful pavement in Mexico....if we were on the bikes, we'd be doing 80+mph....probably better that we weren't....apparently the road from Mex 15 to Alamos is being paved!

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Just then, a voice inside my head said...."Use the Force; let go...."

So....we'd had enough pavement; and turned off a dirt road at one of the small ranches...we didn't come to Mexico for pavement!

I had El Fuerte marked on my lowly GPS V from the last Mexico bike trip I'd done, so we just wandered our way through ranch tracks for the next few hours; occasionally passing a small village and asking general directions. If you're ever in Mexico, this is really the best way to find your way around!

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About three hours later, we popped out at a large spillway; part of a lake just to the West of El Fuerte!

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Our seat of the pants navigation had paid off, but the rough tracks had taken an awful toll...

Steve Irwin's head was missing! Nooooooo!

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So...If anyone has a spare Steve head just laying around....heck...how about a small pic of Mr. Marzonie we can just glue onto another figure....

More to come in Part Dos....

-H-

[Hltoppr]

Dave consoles me, wimpering about our guardian's downfall...Mr. Irwin will have to continue in his current state for the rest of the trip.

On to El Fuerte, where we quickly gas up, have some of the best carne asada tacos ever, and send a quick SPOT check out. A loud rattle emanates from the undercarriage...uh oh...doesn't sound good...

A quick check reveals that an exhaust clamp had given up the ghost...never fear, bailing wire cures all!

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Running a bit behind due to our roundabout route, we don't rest much, fill up our water at a local tienda and head East, past the town of Choix, with hopes of being at the halfway point to Batopilas; Tubares, by nightfall.

The local 411, given to me just before we left, from ExpeditionsWest (Cruising along Mex15 in an air-conditioned, satellite phone equipped Sportsmobile....) was that there had been some reports of local kidnappings in the Tubares area, so I didn't want to be on the road after dark.

In general, the way we were headed has one major cash crop...reefer...and the main transport of the same takes place at night...the wrong place at the wrong time, and you're staring down the barrel of an AK-47. Needless to say, discretion is the better part of valor for me; I'll camp at a town before nightfall!

We once again hit dirt, and are faced with a choice....left or right? We consult our maps and the GPS...which only shows a couple of towns I've plotted in, and choose the left road.

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Beautiful scenery for about an hour and a half...we pass a lake! Hmm...I don't remember a lake per se from the last trip....just a large river....

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We pass a newly built fishing lodge....don't remember that either....and the road gets worse and worse. Four low is engaged, just for the gearing. We come on a couple of cowboys having a snack, and ask them about the road to Tubares. It's not the one we're on, which is a route to a ferry across the lake (Huites) and on to a town called La Reforma.

Twenty six rugged miles in the wrong direction, and it's now late afternoon. There are no good turnouts, as the road is narrow and steep, and I'm envisioning banditos and robbery...

We head back to the lodge, which had a couple of trucks parked outside. The proprietor, a fellow in his early 40s, his girlfriend, and other guys are busy having a bit of a fiesta, dining on Jose Cuervo and Crown Royal, on the main patio, which overlooks the lake from a bluff...beautiful place! They laugh at the old Cruiser; especially when they notice the right hand drive, and the two lost gringos. The lodge is new, and really nice; but too pricey for our meager budget at $100 US per night.

We ask if we can camp down on the "beach" further down the lodge's driveway...yup! Gratis! Free! We wander on down the steep driveway, still in 4 low.

We're immediately met by several barking dogs, then their owner, Pablo, an elderly gentleman, whose job is to watch, 24/7, the small fishing boats belonging to the lodge. His "shelter" consists of a tarp pulled over a simple wooden frame, with a cot and blankets underneath...what a way to make a living!

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Happy to be somewhere secure for the evening, we pull out three chairs (I always carry a spare), and offer a cold Tecate from the fridge...Pablo is pretty amazed at the fridge in the truck, and very appreciative of a cold beer.

We get a chance to chat, in our bad Spanish, with him. He was living in Phoenix until a year ago, when he was caught and deported, and has a wife, three children, and several grandkids in the local area. We're not quite sure when he gets to see them, given his work schedule.

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The wind comes up across the lake, spraying dust and sand about our chairs. As the sun goes down, we start thinking about dinner, so out comes the Brunton Wind River Stove and table, along with some salad, spaghetti, and raspberry crumble, courtesy of Mountain House. Pablo joins us for dinner...still pretty amazed at what comes out of the fridge....:eatchicke

Still more wind...yuk...I hate wind. I spent too much time in grad school in Lubbock, Texas. We decide to just spend the night in the Cruiser; reclining the front seats and throwing our sleeping bags over us. My video Ipod provides late night entertainment, as we chill out watching the Henry Rollins' interview with Marilyn Manson, and Monsterquest, where we learn about the dogboy of Minnesota....not too bad...and not uncomfortable at all!

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We'll make for Batopilas tomorrow!

-H-

[efuentes]

You guys rule !!!!

Alamos-El Fuerte-Tubares-Batopilas it´s ´THE´ insiders route.

Have fun and watch out for the Los Chorros crossing, past that and you´re home free.

Saludos

[Hltoppr]

I looked for a road name to update your log out of Alamos...but no luck...the dirt road (soon to be paved) to El Fuente is the same one you take to go to the lookout (Mirador).

-H-

[kcowyo]

Steve Irwin's head was missing! Nooooooo!


I hear travelling in Mexico is quite dangerous. I'm glad to hear you and your co-pilot didn't lose your heads.

More fabulous tales, trail and photos.




Do you still call it 'shotgun' when you're riding in the front seat on the left hand side?:smiley_drive:

[bovw]

Do you still call it 'shotgun' when you're riding in the front seat on the left hand side?:smiley_drive:
Maybe if the co-pilot is left handed...

That's based on my being right handed riding shotgun on the right. Of course if you ride shotgun on the right and you're left handed, oh well you get it.

Good question.:D

[Hltoppr]

The next morning we awoke early, eager to get under way, with a surprisingly good sleep in the reclined front seats.

On the wrong road, a bit of backtracking was in order. I didn't want to retrace my steps all the way back to Choix; so once again we relied on the most reliable method of Mexican navigation...stop and ask at homes or towns!

Donde esta la calle a Tubares? We get sent down a tight arroyo, and up a dense two track; the Troopy rolling side to side as the suspension flexes through the ruts. It's kinda the right direction...I think....Then, a wide, graded road comes into view! We're well on our way!

The one thing I remember about the first time I came through this route on a motorcycle was that I stopped counting the number of canyons I crossed at eleven. Now that I'm viewing the route from behind the wheel, instead of concentrating on the sand and gravel, it's immediately apparent as to the vastness of the Sierra Madre range. The road twists and climbs; wide enough for mining and logging trucks, but washboarded and rough enough to keep the speeds down to under 25mph; slowing progress.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273225643_x59YN-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/269966982_J8RAY-M.jpg

Dark clouds begin to fill the skies to the North, heading in our direction. We continue to climb; light rain becomes light snow. I'm thinking ahead to the upcoming river crossing, the Rio Urique, and the tight mountain roads which could become impassable during a storm. The passenger side door has ceased to operate properly, it won't open, so Dave is forced to climb over the gearshifts and driver's seat to get out of the truck. We'll see if we can fix it in the next town.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273225667_TrQrd-M.jpg

After a couple of hours, the Tubares mission comes into sight, with its cemetary and cracked bells. It has always been one of my favorites.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/269967026_jzSqH-M.jpg

Stopping at the Tubares community store, which always has Cokes, but seldom bottled water, we work and pry at the door, to no avail. Apparently the dust has taken a toll on the new (aftermarket) door latch mechanism...that'll teach me to buy aftermarket over OEM Toyota...

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273225682_M8shM-M.jpg

Nothing a Fanta and some vanilla wafers can't cure! The rain has stopped, but a cold wind continues, so we veer towards the next road on to Batopilas, and prepare for the much more rugged conditions ahead.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273232806_qNaHv-M.jpg

Luckily, the Rio Urique is only hub deep. The slick, softball sized rocks makes for an interesting motorcycle ride, but are no problemo in the Cruiser. We climb up the opposite side, and I immediately hear a loud, metal grinding crunch! I hit the brakes....no much there...the pedal goes straight to the floor...not good....

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273232818_i92Dp-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273225696_2pks9-M.jpg

After a couple of pumps, I have enough brakes to stop the Troopy, and get out to check for any damage. Dave would have helped, but since his door is still stuck shut...he'll sit in the truck. Turns out the OME suspension is flexing really, really well, and I've proceeded to bend the inner front fender lip with the tires. I'll try to be a bit easier on it from here on out, and maybe extend the bumpstops when I get home. I figure the brake issue is because the drums are wet from the river; nothing much we can do about it here if it's not....

Winding our way through Cuarenta Casas and Rodeo, the road goes from rough to freshly graded. From Batopilas to Rodeo, the Cerro Colorado mine has caused the road to be in heavy use. While not making the grades any flatter, it has caused there to be much less silt and dust to contend with.

Heading over the canyons, and dropping down into Batopilas canyon, the brakes finally show problems. I'm guessing the brake booster has gone out, and while I still have brakes, it takes quite a bit of forethought to bring the heavy Cruiser to a stop. Problematic to say the least, so I drop the transfer case into four low and use the gearing, with the brakes as a last resort.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273232839_fruBL-M.jpg

Finally, after six hours, the small town of Batopilas comes into view!

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273238010_hxjny-M.jpg

-H-

[Hltoppr]

A couple of shots for the "sponsors." :safari-rig: :safari-rig:

-H-

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/271505692_PSoay-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273244604_k2KEq-M.jpg

[Alaska Mike]

Guys like you are my idols.

[upcruiser]

Ok, so Scott's comment earlier on in the thread about cabin fever couldn't be further from the truth. I'm stuck indoors today as a blizzard is gripping the area. This thread has been a breath of fresh, warm air. Glad to see the Cruiser on its first outing and I CAN'T believe the mileage you are pulling in it. Congrats! I'm starting to think that not painting that rig and letting where its natural scars/patina is the way to go. Anyway, keep up the great posts!

[Jacket]

Great story, great pics. You guys are livin' the dream!

"Well, I wonder where that driver's bound
Is there someone, somewhere, someway out there that I've not found"

[upcruiser]

Quote from a great tune no doubt.

[Scott Brady]

Andrew, your adventure stories are the best:1888fbbd:

Ah, and those tires have seen a bit of North America, huh?

[Hltoppr]

Up....I've got matching spray cans of paint on the way...she's getting window tint, some light rust repair, and a blended rattle can finish...I found that I really liked the "not new and shiny" look...it really attracted attention, but the good kind...and blended in as an old rig when necessary!

EW...I was joking with Dave about the tires....From the Arctic Circle to Copper Canyon! Seriously, I'm continually amazed at the performance of BFG tires...I've never....NEVER...had a flat with BFGs in thousands of miles of Baja, Mexico mainland, and all over the Southwest!

-H- :D

[Speaker]

I've never....NEVER...had a flat with BFGs in thousands of miles of Baja, Mexico mainland, and all over the Southwest!

Knock on wood.

(gots any more of them there tires? :peepwall: )

[SOAZ]

First, I am just loving this write up as I can tell everyone else is. Is there any way we can request that you never stop traveling?


:lurk: Thanks H, we're enjoying the tale. (side note: Did you know Caborca is Prescott's sister city (http://www.prescottsistercity.org/)?)

:cow: < I think I found the cow who's orbs you were feasting upon. Sounds delicious! I admire people who are willing to try new dishes in faraway lands.
Wow! Neat fact! We got to race from RP to Caborca once. The town was beautiful and the main square with the church was impressive. I want to make it back there.

[Hltoppr]

First, I am just loving this write up as I can tell everyone else is. Is there any way we can request that you never stop traveling?


Wow! Neat fact! We got to race from RP to Caborca once. The town was beautiful and the main square with the church was impressive. I want to make it back there.

Well...I do make my final student loan payment next month! :costumed-smiley-007

I have some "family" oriented trips in the planning stages, which should be fun, given the 2yo "xfactor"....but the next mods to the Troopy should help...

...and...to tease you...Dave and I are kickin' around shipping the bikes to Cancun and doing some jungle tracks through the Yucatan.... :Astrologist:



-H-

[SOAZ]

Well...I do make my final student loan payment next month! :costumed-smiley-007

I have some "family" oriented trips in the planning stages, which should be fun, given the 2yo "xfactor"....but the next mods to the Troopy should help...

...and...to tease you...Dave and I are kickin' around shipping the bikes to Cancun and doing some jungle tracks through the Yucatan.... :Astrologist:

...and then there's the little Mongol rally. :costumed-smiley-007

-H-
Congrats!! My girlfriend is working on creating her last student loan right now. The day it gets paid off is still only a dream. :drool:
I bet you could do some great southwest trips with the 2yo. Utah and AZ are just chock full of roads that need to be visited!

You're killing me with the talk of bikes! I just sold mine. I can't wait to have one again. Until then my "pedal" bike will be on the back of my truck wherever I go. :26_7_2:

Oh yah, I've NEVER had a flat with my BFG's ever. A set of muds, a set of at's and a few sets of commercial traction t/a's on our 1600 car and never a flat. That says something! I do love the coopers i have right now though.

[Hltoppr]

We roll into Batopilas mid afternoon, and I head towards my favorite digs:

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273238019_zQVc4-M.jpg

I simply fell in love with this "hotel" the last time I was in Batopilas. Spotlessly clean, plenty of hot water, secure parking, stellar service, and inexpensive, at $50.00 per night...with two folks it's well worth it! A gentleman named Martin and his grandmother run the place....if you're in Batopilas, just ask for him....

There are two areas in the place, one, with six or so rooms surrounding an interior courtyard, Spanish colonial style, and a set of rooms, with the parking, across the street in a two story building.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273863841_zZuoP-M.jpg


I've always stayed at the "across the street" location, which is open and colorful, with plenty of seating areas to while away the day with a good book, or chat with friends. The parking area is gated, and provides an excellent place to change tires on a bike, or, in our case, try and get the passenger side door to open...turns out a bit of WD40 (yes...I know it's not really a lubricant!) worked a treat and Dave could now get out his side of the truck. I went ahead and cleaned all the other locks and latches, as well!

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273863829_fU2UC-M.jpg
-note: This photo was from my previous bike trip....

The Troopy even still fit in the parking area!

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273555044_gWPoY-M.jpg



A short post, I'll get more in later!

-H-

[Hltoppr]

By this time, Dave and I are in need of some down time. We've been driving every day for five days; much of it rough dirt tracks. The good thing about Batopilas is that to get here...you really have to want to be here.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273555142_hq2nY-M.jpg

The route we came consists of 10-12 hours of dirt; through canyons, rivers and high pass ledges; while the other "main" route into town is thirty miles of pavement from the town of Creel at 7000 feet, then hitting dirt and dropping down though the second largest canyon in the Copper Canyon system, Batopilas Canyon. Imagine a dirt road cutting down 5000' into a canyon the size of the Grand Canyon in Arizona...truly, it is one of the "must do" overland route in North America. Breathtaking to say the least, and doable in a high clearance 2wd. Either way, it's not a town you just bump into...you've got to want it!

Batopilas itself was founded in the 1600s when silver was discovered along the Batopilas river, which flows through town. Through the years, silver has come and gone; as have several incarnations of the mines. Now, the chief export is rumored to be marijuana, like much of the area. That being said, I've never had any security issues, and would take my wife and daughter there in a heartbeat!

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273555065_zrP7d-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273238033_A7qDC-M.jpg


FYI...No Smoking....for the gabachos who really don't know any Spanish...and lack common sense!

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273555128_a3U4P-M.jpg

(A note on security. Recently, there was a bit of a gunfight between police and a wanted individual in the town. This appears to have been an isolated incident....I'm serious when I say I don't really have security concerns here...but here is a pic of the bullet riddled wall....)

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273238047_6SF5V-M.jpg

In 1880, a former governor of Washington, D.C., Alexander Shepherd, purchased the San Miguel mine in Batopilas. Although the financial history of Shepherd's operation is questionable, the buildings of the home he built for his family, and the main mining complex are still here, and offer an amazing glimpse into the extravagance and ingenuity of Mr. Shepherd. Batopilas, in the late 1800s had hydroelectric power and aqueduct systems! These can still be seen today; and the power plant, although updated, remains in use!

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273555169_LCHPB-M.jpg

Walking through the Shepherd ruins is almost like being transported to ruins of Jordan or North Africa, with the sandstone glowing in the sun. Fireplaces and flues built into the solid walls rise three stories, and the stonework seen on the retaining walls would amaze any modern day mason with its craftmanship. Remains of smelters and boilers litter the site, and strangler figs both invade and stabilize many walls. A tour of the local museum helps to put things in their place, with photos of how the complex was in its glory days, and is another must do attraction across from the square.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273555206_9wrhw-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273558863_dLX5G-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273555184_Bteo2-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273558893_fwptJ-M.jpg

-H-

[locrwln]

What a great trip and story. Can't wait for the next installment, it's killing me.

Jack

[LexusAllTerrain]

Keep going baby!

[Scenic WonderRunner]

Don't Stop..........!

Keep Going!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/ScenicWonderRunner/2008_0225TotallyTaco0003.jpg


Make Tacos........Not War!:ylsmoke:




.

[Hltoppr]

Next installment is in the works....:steak:

-H-

[Moody]

Killer writeup. Makes me want to head south...I have had enough cold Utah weather this season.

PLEASE keep it coming!

[Ryanmb21]

That cruiser is SO awesome :exclaim:

awesome testimony and I LOVE taco's, diggin this thead :costumed-smiley-007

[Hltoppr]

Well rested after a day of sightseeing, the time has come to begin our journey back North towards the frontera (border) and back to reality.

After saying goodbye to our hosts, we gas up the Troopy and cross the two hundred year old bridge heading out of Batopilas on the main road. Imagine driving on a dirt road that climbs out of the Grand Canyon. It's in good condition, with minimal dust from the last heavy rains a couple of days ago. The brakes on the Troopy are now unresponsive to even multiple attempts to pump the pedal; although some residual braking is available with the pedal all the way to the floor. It makes me nervous, but at least the bullbar should fend off any burro, goat, or chicken that jumps out in front of us at the last minute. I shift into 4 low; without the hubs locked, just to use engine braking and gearing for the trek out.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273558924_nU6fv-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273558946_vExLL-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273558962_MN3DZ-M.jpg


To add insult to injury, my attempt at lubing all the door latches has worked too well on the driver's side. Now the door will pop open on its own...ugh...Forty minutes of adjustment attempts lead to nothing, so out comes the ubiquitous bungee cord, which is wrapped around the door pillar through the front rear window...it'll work for now, anyways; although I don't look forward to doing the entire trip back to the states with the widow open.

Up the famous switchbacks we go, occasionally passing locals tending cattle, or just walking to the store. I envision the Troopy becoming a bus, full of livestock and people...if I had any passenger compartment room....gotta get that rear seat in!

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/271505721_hBwYa-L.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273558981_b8W4v-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273555212_k7GDf-M.jpg


Finally hitting pavement about three hours later, we make a quick snack and air up the tires with the trusty Viair compressor...which is a hit with some local construction workers (the road to Batopilas is being paved about 15 miles from the main road). I take a quick look at the driver's door to see if the bungee is a permanent mod for the remainder of the trip, and am able to get the safety latch to catch...good enough...I'll just make sure to keep my seatbelt on, so as not to disappear out the open door if we hit a large bump!

On to the town of Creel. Located at 7000', Creel is a logging town with a tourism slant. Very popular with the adventure motorcycling and backpacking crowd; with a mix of locals and Tahumaran indians, it is a fine place to spend a couple of days shopping at the local markets and stores, and just generally hanging out. Relaxing isn't on our agenda; however, so we grab some grilled chicken as a mid afternoon snack and keep heading North to Casas Grandes, where we would like to surprise a mutual artist friend who is doing a photography residency there.

With the Troopy running well, we pass through the ponderosa pine forests around Creel, and drop in elevation to a pinon/juniper zone which reminds me a lot of Northern New Mexico, where I grew up. Just after dusk, we pull off the road ouside of Madera and make camp for the night. The sky is crystal clear, and the temperature drops quickly as we climb into our sleeping bags enjoying the vast expanse of stars and the milky way, unobscured by any human caused light pollution.

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273558997_pkbNb-M.jpg

A cold night follows, and our water left outside the Troopy is frozen the next morning; so we make a good breakfast of eggs and bagels (Egg Beaters in a fridge are a wonderful thing!) and listen to the BBC World News on the XM radio while sipping fresh coffee.

On the road again, we make good time to Casas Grandes, the location of the Paquime Ruins, a Unesco cultural site. We've both visted the ruins before, so we set about to find a friend, Raechel Running, a Flagstaff painter and photographer who is spending some time on an artist's residency. After asking around for la gringa Raechel, I notice a minivan with Arizona plates, and eclectic bumper stickers....yeah...that's her....

We wander into a large, spanish courtyard to find Raechel on her computer editing photos for a presentation she'll give later that night. Her surprise at seeing Dave and me wander in is apparent...not too many folks from home just "stop by" for a visit down here!

Raechel is one of these folks who can brighten up a room just by her mere presence and spirit, and Dave and I enjoy the opportunity to be shown around Casas Grandes by her. First stop, lunch at the local taco stand...mmm...shrimp tacos....then off to the local tortilleria, where I pick up some fresh tortillas and home made salsa for the trip back.

Raechel then gives us a tour of her home in Casas Grandes, which is like stepping into a gallery which would hold its own against any in Santa Fe; with photos of her own, as well as her father's and his partner; all well known artists in their own right. http://www.rmrfotoarts.com/

Dave and I have to keep moving North, and say our goodbyes to head home. Raechel hands me a bumper sticker for the Troopy which is perfect...and sums up the purpose, feeling, and style of this impromptu trip in an old Land Cruiser, with a good friend, and through areas which are seldom seen by any but the hardiest tourist:

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/277139637_hFUiF-M.jpg


Keep Adventuring!

-H-

[Hltoppr]

So, what was the toll on the Troopy?

Two thousand miles with an average fuel consumption of 17 mpg, two aftermarket door latches gone, one brake booster...and...as I pull into the garage after washing her off...the water pump goes out; belching coolant on the floor! I laugh...typical Land Cruiser...breaks down in the garage! :victory:

Once again, I've been assured that contrary to the rumors of bandits and corrupt police, Mexico is a wonderful country full of friendly folks; and contains some of the most beautiful terrain and opportunities for a truly life changing overlanding experience.

A bit of preparation, a tad of traveler's Spanish, and a smile are all you need to head South (or East for you Efuentes! :sunflower ).

I believe Dan Eldon coined the phrase...The Journey is the Destination!

Last Sunday was spent bringing the Troopy back to life, and I'll do a final brake adjust this weekend...and she's ready for the new mods and being prepped for the next FAMILY adventure...yes, I think my 19mo. old is ready to get out in the middle of nowhere!

Cheers Ladies and Gentlemen!

-H-

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/269966923_D3xhk-M.jpg

[Ursidae69]

Thank you for the diversion from work amigo. Excellent write up. :beer: :beer:

[Scott Brady]

Just awesome Andrew!

[efuentes]

Thanks for the writeup and the kind words to Mexico, I can`t wait to go up there, 3 short weeks.

Saludos

[sami]

Great write up! thank you so much

-Jason

[Scott Brady]

Thanks for the writeup and the kind words to Mexico, I can`t wait to go up there, 3 short weeks.

Saludos

There are many of us that love your country. I am certainly proud to be an American, but feel sincerely honored to have seen the parts of Mexico that I have...

[kcowyo]

Awesome, just awesome. :clapsmile


A timeless trip, rolling in a classic Cruiser. It's official.... I'm jealous. Very well done.


:beer:

[Paul R]

Wow that was a great read and an amazing trip!
:cool:

[Hltoppr]

There are many of us that love your country. I am certainly proud to be an American, but feel sincerely honored to have seen the parts of Mexico that I have...

:iagree:

-H-

[upcruiser]

Thanks for the entertainment Andrew. The coolant hose part is pretty funny. My 'ol FJ60 seemed to have the same issue. The most major failures always happened at home in the driveway. Too funny.

Looking forward to your next adventure installment.

[Scott Brady]

Yeah, I have had the same result with the TLC. I raced the entire OBC with only minor issues. Then, on the way back to Tangiers, the wheel almost fell off... An aluminum wheel spacer broke, shearing all the studs off the passenger rear. It was amazing that it never happened during the race, as it would have seriously injured Nathan and me....

[viatierra]

:elkgrin: :victory: :sunflower ;) :bike_rider: :sombrero: :jumping: :clapsmile :luxhello: :jump:

There's a bunch of happy/smiley-smilies for you!
Thanks for the inspiring read...

[MoGas]

Too many tacos don't agree with me and don't knock war till you have been in one. We had :victory: in the one I was in, though.

[Hltoppr]

I'd keep a close watch on your bumper Mogas...:safari-rig: :sombrero: :shakin:

-H-

[MoGas]

I'd keep a close watch on your bumper Mogas...:safari-rig: :sombrero: :shakin:

-H-

I'm not worried.....I know a good lawyer.

[Alaska Mike]

Excuse me? I think you need to gas up and turn around and give us more trip reports. This is some of the best stuff I've read in awhile.

[Hltoppr]

Please forward all requests to have one less lawyer in the world to Mr. Brady, Mr. Hanson and Mr. Marzonie....:ylsmoke:

Actually, I will maybe post another short trip for later in the month...a trial run with the kiddo! It won't be much, just to test some gear and setup, but should be something new and interesting; expecially for those with little ones they'd like to start overlanding with....:lurk:

-H-

Until then...how about another Mexico pic or two...

The main bridge into Batopilas

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273558880_BLwLk-M.jpg

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/273558937_FGkij-M.jpg

Hola, donde esta, the boy fili?

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/277627862_yssPb-M.jpg

Yes, the dropoff is as far as you think it is...Orilla Peligrosa, so to speak...

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/277627849_Ac2cP-M.jpg

Palapas and old rigs...beautiful!

http://hltoppr.smugmug.com/photos/277627829_YEmz6-M.jpg

Hope that helps Mike!

Cheers! :sombrero:

[fiddy]

Great trip! Thanks for sharing!

[Hltoppr]

Thanks Fiddy...Welcome to Expo! :)

-H-

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Nicely done...nicely done. Thank you.

[timaus13]

Very inspirational read, Photo's copleted the journey.
I felt like a back seat passenger experiencing all the sites and experiences that you described.
Absolutely Loved it, Rivited in fact till the very End :-( sad it ended.
More, more, more,more, Please.:clapsmile :clapsmile :clapsmile :gunt: :gunt: :gunt: :26_7_2: :26_7_2: :26_7_2:

[Sleeps In Jeeps]

Amazing, simply breathe taking.

Is there anyway a N00b overlander could get way points or cords. for the trip you plan to take with your family?

I plan on the exact same thing with my new wife and son and we would love to either join you and yours or do an identical trip.

Thanks for the inspiration!

[Tomas Tierra]

Go Troopy Go!!!!!

Truely enjoyed that read, Thank You!!

[UK4X4]

Dam...how'd I miss this thread....I spend 1/2 my day on here as it is...

nice writeup and good pics...:clapsmile

[Hltoppr]

Amazing, simply breathe taking.

Is there anyway a N00b overlander could get way points or cords. for the trip you plan to take with your family?

I plan on the exact same thing with my new wife and son and we would love to either join you and yours or do an identical trip.

Thanks for the inspiration!

I'd be happy to pull together what I've got. I'm trying to get better at the documenting portion of these trips. I've found it pretty tough to make myself really sit down at the end of each day and do the "paperwork" on a trip...especially when there's a cold cerveza and fresh tacos as an alternative!

Quite a few basemaps of Mexico are pretty poor for GPS coordinates. I use them to give me a general...and I mean general, sense of where I'm going. Most of the times the best directions are found by asking at local farms and small towns which way to go...heck...that's how we found our way from Alamos to El Fuerte on this trip.

Road conditions change frequently in these areas, and security is something that you'll want to be aware of...although not a reason to avoid the area...more information is always better.

As for family trips, I'm starting slowly with the kiddo, just so she gets used to the whole tent/camping thing...but will definitely post up an invite for others when it's planned!

-H-

[SWDesertTaco]

I really enjoyed this thread; great prose and pics!

Only makes me long for the coast and Hecho en Mexico style cervesas y comida.

Did a similar trip to Urique and Batopilas two years ago this month, your thread brought back many memories and a greater desire to return!

Kudos on this one, I look forward to your further admissions of wanderlust.
-C

:sombrero:

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Awesome!!

:safari-rig:

[Hltoppr]

I've put some GPS points for this trip to Mexico in the Expedition Research & Links section....

Let's see someone go!!!

-H- :coffeedrink:

[FLnative]

Awesome trip report!!

I am new to the site but this is exactly the kind of stuff that makes expedition portal so great. I am definately inspired to make some overland trips of my own.:sombrero:

[Hltoppr]

So....the next trip is in the works....

Two bikes, two friends, jungles and ruinas....


-H- :costumed-smiley-007

[FourByLand]

Which route are you taking?

Glad to see you didn't waste anytime!

:chowtime:

[Willman]

Can't wait to read about another great trip!!!


:)

[Hltoppr]

It's not for a few months, but so far it involves Cancun and the central jungles of the Yucatan....

-H-

[Speaker]

Wow, that's a long way down. Take lotso pictars.

[Hltoppr]

Three days to Cancun from Flagstaff....:roost: :roost:

Then we'll take our time....

-H- :bike_rider:

[Johnny Dollar]

thanks for the enthralling read! :safari-rig: