Yukon, Northwest Territories and Alaska 2006 (cancelled)

[Scott Brady]

NOTE: Trip has been postponed due to my Colorado trip, Washington trip and a trip to Oahu in early June. I am seriously considering a winter assault, driving the ice roads.

I am in the initial planning stages for a 4-6 week trek to the Arctic Circle in Summer of 2006. I will start posting details here...

IMPORTANT NOTE: As many of you know, I write for several magazines. 4WD Toyota Owner, Toyota Trails and others. I will be writing a story on this adventure (like I do for all of my trips). Out of consideration for this, and the effort I put into planning and leading these trips, I ask that you do not post pictures or trip reports to forums other than this one, and do not solicit the trip for articles in any publications. After my story has published, then you are welcome to post pictures on other forums, and put stories on your personal websites. Thank you for being understanding. If you have special requirements in this area, just let me know, and we can talk about it

[Jonathan Hanson]

I assume you've included driving the Dempster Highway, Scott? The most spectacular 500 miles of nasty shale gravel road in North America. It ends in Inuvik, on the banks of the Mackenzie River, well north of the Arctic Circle. From there you can hire a float plane to take you to Tuktoyaktuk or other spots on the Beaufort Sea coast (or you could do what we did and kayak down the river; it's flat and suitable for sea kayaks).

[Scott Brady]

Jonathan,

My current plan is to drive the Dempster at least into the Northwest Territories. Maybe to Fort McPherson, but I am not sure. Inuvik is appealing, but will depend on the time we have available. Even 6 weeks would be tight...

For those not familiar with this area, here is a nice map:
http://www.yukoninfo.com/dempster/dempstermap.gif

[Jonathan Hanson]

One of the best things about driving the Dempster is looking east and realizing there is not another road before you hit Hudson's Bay, about one and a half thousand miles. I'm not even aware of anyplace in Africa like that.

Inuvik is worth it if you have the time. Fort McPherson is just a village, but Inuvik has a fantastic bookstore, a church shaped like an igloo, and a lot of other interesting stuff.

[dmc]

Scott,

I toyed with that route a few years back. My co-pilot and I both had connections in Alaska so we decided on the Dalton Highway to Deadhorse AK instead. Thanks to a blown sidewall (Goodyear MTR) and the inability to get a timely replacement in Fairbanks I didn't even make it to Dawson City. I have travelled from Utah to different regions of Alaska 5 times so I'm very comfortable with the routes northward. Not sure I can help on the north end of your trip but I'll weigh in on the southern half if you'd like.
dmc

[Scott Brady]

DMC,

Thank you for the offer of assistance ;)

I also have a great connection in Alaska, and am concidering driving to Inuvic now and on to Anchorage. From there, I would put the truck in a container and ship it to LA. That would allow for a longer adventure without covering much of the same terrain twice.

I will start planning this trip in earnest once the Baja adventure is done... :)

[Desertdude]

I will be following this thread carefully and posting our findings - I promised my GF (on a certain numbered birthday) I would coordinate an Alaskan adventure - This trip could not be more timely. We have started the research, talking to alaskan natives and getting a feel for the adventure.

[VikingVince]

Here's an interesting little piece on driving the Dempster to Inuvik

http://www.openthinkinc.com/tatra/3oceans3.html

I wanna go...never heard of a Tatra before...snowstorm in mid-august...wow...guess I'll have to get mud tires...and 2 spares? yikes...kaching$$

[Scott Brady]

Fantastic LINK! This is so exciting to think about, I can hardly stand it :elkgrin:

We are GOING to make this thing happen...

[VikingVince]

YEAH...that link really wet my appetite...I suggest we consider taking that little plane ride up to Tuk...talk about a little village on "the edge of nowhere"...that is it!!...and people live in Tuk year around!...rather amazing, compared to people like us who live in these crowded urban areas...what does a Tuk native want out of life? (a few warm days maybe) :-)

I've been doing some research on the Dempster vs the Dalton...and as you no doubt knew, Scott, the Dempster is the way to go...at least according to people who've done both...the Dalton parallels the Alaskan pipeline...yuk!...the Dempster looks like an "experience"

[Desertdude]

Thanks for that great link! - i got lost in the tatra automobile :coffee:

I have been talking with a few folks who have visited, and also grew up in Alaska - they all say take the plane ride :)

[Jasonazx]

Scott, do you have any idea yet where everyone would meet up to make the trek up there? More specifically, which state and city? I am starting to really think about this trip, and just trying to get an idea of the drive up there, as I have never done a trip like this.

[Scott Brady]

Interesting question...

The group would initially form up near Prescott, at the area where DesertDude and I live. From there, we would travel west and meet up with Vince. Then our travels would take us north.

Lots to think about on this one. :ylsmoke:

[Outback Expeditions]

Hello Scott,
How many vehicles did you have in mind for this expedition? I know the other group is starting to plan for a Alaska 2006 trip. I just wanted to know if this would include people from that group too. Thanks. :victory:

[Jonathan Hanson]

An anecdote from Tuktoyaktuk: Roseann and I pulled our kayaks up the beach there after a five-day paddle from Inuvik, and a young Inuit woman dressed in Gap jeans helped us carry our dry bags up to the little hotel. After we told her where we had come from she thought a moment, then said, "So . . .is this your idea of a dream vacation?" We allowed as to how it was. She thought a few moments more, then said, "Man, I'd have been in HAWAII."

[Scott Brady]

Hello Scott,
How many vehicles did you have in mind for this expedition? I know the other group is starting to plan for a Alaska 2006 trip. I just wanted to know if this would include people from that group too. Thanks. :victory:

This trip is essentialy full. We have three/four vehicles. We do intend to drive all the way to the Artic Circle and ship the trucks back from Anchorage.

Probably a 4-5 week trip...

I do need to spend more time researching it, but not until late Nov., when the move is done, SEMA and the truck are done, and I am caught up with everything

[Outback Expeditions]

I hope you guys have a safe trip.

[Scott Brady]

I hope you guys have a safe trip.
Thanks Mike:D

[XXXpedition]

Scott,
this is an older thread and my comments might be a moot point, but since I just joined.....

We drove the Dalton last summer (July) and absolutely loved it. Very remote, though you do get quite some truck traffic and the occasional tourist. Spectacular scenery and wildlife. It's true that it runs parallel with the TransAlaskan Pipeline but that just accentuated the remote wilderness. Deadhorse is just as exciting as the name sounds, and we didn't bother to take a $35 per person tour to Prudhoe Bay to dip our toes in the Artic Ocean. At any rate, the trip was well worth it for all the beauty on the way - plus you'll hit the northernmost point accessible by car within the US.

There's a report plus pics on our website: www.xxxpedition.com if you want to read some details.

Heard only good things about the Dempster but haven't driven it myself.

[Scott Brady]

Sven,

Thank you for stopping buy, and for offering your advice and experience (and for posting a link to your great trip).

I am going to start planning this trip in earnest after Baja in January.

[Desertdude]

XXXpedition - thanks for posting that link - You have included incredible documentation/photos on your trip - as well as some handy travel tips.

"In preparation for the worst we built a stone guard for our windshield and lights "



Still reading and looking - :ylsmoke:

[Nullifier]

Hey scott have you any idea what the cost of shipping the vehicles back is gonna run. Just workng on putting together my budget. I think I am going to ship my truck to AZ and fly out. Would you be willing to take delivery of my truck if I do that?

On return My goal is to leave it in Cali till August. I have a trade show in SLC (outdoor Retailer) so I will fly to Cali pick up the truck drive to SLC and then home. Then hit Moab on the way back for 2-3 days since I'll be going right by.

[dmc]

Scott,

do you have dates for this trip yet? right now i'm planning to attend ACT2006 next July and hope to bookend the trek with about 8 days of wandering on my own in AK. Depending on the time frame we may have to get together for a few days.
dmc

[flywgn]

Scott,

I think we spoke of our trip to the Arctic Circle when we saw you (God, was that in September?).

Ours was a marvelous trip. Five weeks was not enough, though, and there was a lot, I mean a LOT, of windshield time getting from here to there. Don't regret a minute of it, however.

In case any of the other readers want to see some of my notes, they are at http://www.4wdtrips.net/forum/default.aspx?f=10&m=21967

I was posting my notes 'live' most of the way using Motosat mobile dish hook-up. Lost the satellite somewhere around latitude 55 or so and was too lazy to make a change with Motosat. Now that I know how (all it takes is money), next time I'll continue to post.

The bottom part of the Dempster up to Eagle Plains, YT, is nothing short of spectacular, with several 'spurs' that one can take if time permits. Our visuals were hampered by smaze being created by several big fires SW of there. Even so, we found our vocabulary limited by the beauty of the moraines, the lakes, the mountains...I can go on.

In short, your trip will be memorable. We may even cross paths, since we plan to tow Motosat up to the Great Slave Lake next summer.

[gene]

Scott,

I have done the Dempster several times now. The Dalton is very impressive but I'd rather take the Dempster any day. I can't recommend highly enough that you go all the way to Inuvik! Inuvik is Arctic/Funky construction but the feeling of being on the edge of the truly last frontier is superb! The Dempster (like the Dalton) really is easy to travell. You can quite easily do the 500 miles of graded dirt in a couple of days. Most of the vehicles up there are your standard mid sized sedans, only modification is a well cracked windshield. In the 4WD department, full size diesels: Dodge, Ford and Chevy rule. Stock for greatest reliability, full size in order to handle big jobs.

Places not to miss in that area are Dawson City, Chicken and most of all Eagle, AK. John McPhee has a great book called "Coming Into The Country" about life in the bush town of Eagle. The central character in the book John Borg, married my wife and I a few years back on the banks of the Yukon River. He is a friend and fellow fiddler.

I am suprised at your choice to ship vehicles back from Anchorage. It is overall an easy drive up there and back, the miles pass by as fast as any highway in the lower 48. You can take one route up such as the alaskan Hwy and enjoy the ever more scenic, Cassair Hwy on the way down. Alternatively, I am sure you have responsible readers who would love the opportunity to drive your vehicles back for you!

Enjoy your trip, I'll be up there this summer as well.

Gene Rubin

[Scott Brady]

Gene and Alan,

Thank you for the great feedback and suggestions. I have a few issues to work out, and then I will start posting details of the itenerary. It would be great to get your thoughts on our plans.

[DenverCruiser]

I can't wait to see how your preparations & trip go, as I am planning to go up in '07!:lurk:

[paulj]

I took a 3 mth trip to Alaska in 1988 (August-October) with my wife and 6 yr old son. The car was a Chevy S10 kingcab with a Wildernest campertop/tent. We camped about 2/3 of the nights, with motel, friends and ferry accounting for the rest. Mileage most days was 2-300, with only a couple of longer ones.

Some highlights of the trip were:
- a week from Chicago to Edmonton, another to Whitehorse and Dawson City.
- 5 days round trip on the Dempster. This was best part of the trip. I liked the open mountain views, which reminded me of Andean paramo (grassy highlands). We crossed paths with a group of Italians driving little cars, each with a roof top tent.
- Top of the World hwy (good gravel on the Yukon side) to Eagle and Tok. Rainy day in Eagle, nice museum tour.
- Fairbanks - good university museum (Dalton wasn't open to the public)
- Denali - 3 nights; bus trip into the interior
- Kenai and Homer (with boat tour across the inlet)
- ferry from Portage to Valdez. Then you drove onto a train flatcar to get to Portage, now you can drive through the train tunnel.
- The mountain views driving inland from Valdez may be some of the best in Alaska
- McCarthy Rd - well worth the side trip; old railroad bed.
- Denali Hwy (gravel) across to the park
- a week flight to Nome and St Lawrence Island in the Bering Sea
- Return via Haines, Juneau and (wet) Ketchikan and the Alaska Ferry
- Hyder/Stewart and lower part of Cassiar Hwy; I want to drive the rest of the Cassiar one of these days.
- Jasper and Banff
- a month drying off by looping south through the 4 Corners area, including Moab, Navajo Res, and Colorado San Juans.

There are lots of guidebooks for the area, Mileposts, Bells. Lots of Alaska threads on rv.net openroads forum.

There used to be a good travelog on line, NorthbyRover, of a family of 4 that drove from Texas to California and north in a Disco. They had one flat, due, I think to a shale sliver from the Dempster. It appears their main site is gone, but they still have pictures on Expedition Exchange. http://www.expeditionexchange.com/northbyrover/

paulj

[gene]

Paulj,

Your trip looked great! My wife and I were married in Eagle and we now have good friends there. Have you read "Coming into the Country"? It has a great section on life in Eagle.

I have done the Cassiar many times. Just so you can rest assured, the lower Cassiar, the part that you have seen is actually the best of the Cassiar.

Gene

[Scott Brady]

NOTE: Trip has been postponed due to my Colorado trip, Washington trip and a trip to Oahu in early June. I am seriously considering a winter assault, driving the ice roads.

[Nullifier]

Oh man keep me posted. I might be down for that. Winter is a good time for me t be off. Plus I might have sold my property and shop by then. and be unemplyed with nothing better to do LOL!

Actually doing that in winter would truely be an expedition. I'll have to scrounge around adn dig out my down parka's.

[flywgn]

I and a friend drove to AK in the winter (1958) and it was a blast. Used the "Alcan Highway" the whole way. No dust, but we did hit some muddy spots (no pavement in '58).

We had a '56 Ford Fairlane Stn Wgn. (How 'bout that for an expedition vehicle?) Oh, we had chains and a shovel though, so we were prepared. Yeah, right. We made it though, and with very little trouble.

We were doing a favor for a buddy in the USAF who was going to homestead in the Anchorage area. Matanuska Valley to be exact.

Oh, I neglected to say that we were pulling the buddy's 24' house trailer to boot.

What a blast! I've thought about that trip on each of the subsequent drives to AK and the YT. We were young, fearless, and pretty naive--maybe dumb is the correct word.

For those of you considering the Cassiar Route, don't expect dirt anymore. Last summer we counted less than 60 mi of unpaved road, and they were busy working on that stretch too. That route remains my favorite connection and it's a bit shorter than the route up through Dawson Ck. Can just imagine that area in winter.

[Scott Brady]

Well, I am seriously considering the winter assault on the Arctic Circle. I will start a new thread in the next month or so....


I am moving this thread to the completed section for reference to other travelers considering the same.