M101CDN Trailer mods

[PCRover]

After receiving several requests for more information on how the cover was constructed for my M101CDN trailer, I decided to put together this write up.

Originally I had planned on welding the frame pieces together but my welding skills are lacking so I went with something I am more capable of, Nuts and Bolt assembly. The frame is made from 7 pieces of 1" x 1" square steel stock. There are 5 pieces 48" long and 2 pieces 74" long. The layout is fairly simple with 2 48" pieces and two 74" pieces making up the perimeter with mitered corners. The other 3 48" pieces form cross supports. The frame pieces were cleaned, primed, and painted with a Satin Flat Black paint.

http://www.myrovers.com/Photos/M101CDN%20Trailer/slides/Top_frame.JPG


http://www.myrovers.com/Photos/M101CDN%20Trailer/slides/Top_corner.JPG


Everything is held together by Stanley Heavy Duty corner braces and 1/4-20 bolts and nuts. There are 4 hinges on one side that fasten to one side of the frame and the lip of the trailer. I used removable hinges as my planned usage of the trailer includes utility hauling, but any hinge with the appropriate dimensions should work.

http://www.myrovers.com/Photos/M101CDN%20Trailer/slides/hinges.jpg

The frame is covered with 1/8" PVC plastic sheet. I PVC plastic for weight consideration and durability as it doesn’t dent and when it gets scratched it stays white. Sheet metal or aluminum could certainly be used in place of it. The PVC sheet is held in place with Silicone seal and the base rails of the Thule Rack System kep it secure. I was planning on using sheet metal screws around the perimeter of the frame to help hold the plastic sheet down, but found them not necessary so far. To stop moisture and dust from seeping between the cover frame and the trailer lip I installed 1" wide x 1/4" thick rubber seal on the underside of the covers exterior frame. This weather strippng gets compressed when the cover is closed and does a good job of sealing out moisture and dust.

Rubber weatherstripping like this can be found at just about any local building supply retailer.
http://www.myrovers.com/Photos/M101CDN%20Trailer/slides/weatherstripping.jpg

Since I was planning on mounting a Roof Top Tent on my trailer top I decided it would be wise to add some Gas Springs to assist in lifting the cover. I estimated the total weight to be in the 200lb range so having assistance to open the cover is a good idea. The first location of the Springs I tried did not work well as the weight of the tent caused some sagging of the frame. I relocated the springs further out on the frame and everything worked as I hoped it would.

This picture is of the original mounting location and since has been changed to the exterior also.
http://www.myrovers.com/Photos/M101CDN%20Trailer/slides/gas_springs.JPG

The Gas Springs used are from McMaster-Carr and have a gas pressure of 125lbs. The current spring location and gas pressure will support the weight of the cover and tent keeping it open when lifted to the springs maximum extension. If a tent is not planned then a lower pressure spring should be used. I have two sets of springs so I can change them depending on what my current application is. The springs are located on the outside as shifting trailer loads cold damage or displace them if located on the interior.

This is the end brackets used for securing the gas Springs.
http://www.myrovers.com/Photos/M101CDN%20Trailer/slides/springbracket.jpg

Currently I have simple hasps holding the cover closed and also allowing it to be padlocked. My plans are to install these spring latches which will keep a constant closing force on the cover.

http://www.myrovers.com/Photos/M101CDN%20Trailer/slides/drawlatch2.jpg

The overall theme of to this trailer is multipurpose so I wanted to have a versatile cargo mounting system. By using the Thule System on the cover I can mount just about anything one might want to take with them. Bikes, Additional Cargo Carriers, Cargo basket, a small boat or canoe, etc...

http://www.myrovers.com/Photos/M101CDN%20Trailer/slides/TrailerwithTent-1.JPG

I chose an Overland Roof Top Tent from AutoHome as it is a well constructed tent that was readily available.

http://www.myrovers.com/Photos/M101CDN%20Trailer/slides/Trailer_with_tent.JPG

I welcome comments and ideas on how the building of the cover might have been done different and on what possible changes and or additions that could be made to it.


This post is directed mainly at the cover and its construction. I will continue to post to this thread as the build out of the trailer continues and I search for ideas and solutions for it.

[+ d]

:bowdown:
McMaster-Carr!


My only suggestion would be to perhaps Loctite all those bolted connections? Seems like with use the top will be flexing a bit and things could work their way loose. Especially since the top is on with silicone there is a bit of give to your shear panel. Once you get everything settled you could just take it somewhere and have a friend throw some quick beads on there with a Tig welder...you already did all the hard work!

[60seriesguy]

I like it, a LOT. Very functional, well thought out, and LIGHT, which makes things a lot easier.

I'm curious, do you ever have cargo interfere with the shocks?

Nice choice on the tent, too!

[Grouseman]

Rover,

Great write up on the lid. So how much did the set-up cost you?

Gman

[Scott Brady]

Clean and functional. Have you been able to find matching hubs for the DII? How is the pintle on the trail/highway? I have heard of people putting large diameter rubber heater hose around the ID to prevent the rattling, etc.

[ChuckB]

That is sweet!

[BajaXplorer]

Gary,
Thanks for doing the great write-up. Alas, I am no welder either. So, I will cut the top as you did, but will try to find someone to weld it before I go the nut and bolt route. I have an Eezi-Awn due for delivery from Pangaea and plan to mount it on the lid as well. However, I don't plan to carry anything other than the tent on the lid so I will probably mount directly to and through the lid cross braces. Thanks again for sharing the build information.
BX
Couple pix of my trailer.

[atavuss]

Gary,
thanks for taking the time to post your trailer info! lots of good ideas!

[PCRover]

My only suggestion would be to perhaps Loctite all those bolted connections? Seems like with use the top will be flexing a bit and things could work their way loose.

Good call, I did not think of using loctite. I considered nylock nuts, but decided to go straight lockwashers and nuts. If things start to loosen up, I have those two options to go to.


I'm curious, do you ever have cargo interfere with the shocks?

Never loaded it with the springs on the inside, they went to the outside before actually using it.


Great write up on the lid. So how much did the set-up cost you?


Around $3k so far including tent.



Have you been able to find matching hubs for the DII? How is the pintle on the trail/highway? I have heard of people putting large diameter rubber heater hose around the ID to prevent the rattling, etc.


Yes, I have DII compatible hubs on it now. The lugs are smaller in diameter, but the wheels still fit proper on there.

So far the Pintle is great, not much noise at all. Actually I think the little noise I get is from slop in the receiver pin. I have a true Pintle only hitch on the DII that fits much tighter than the combo Pintel/Ball type. Thanks for the tip on the hose, I'll consider it if noise ever becomes an issue.


I will cut the top as you did, but will try to find someone to weld it before I go the nut and bolt route.

I was in a hurry as I usually am so went with what I could get done. I have since received and offer from a welder to help me out. If any issues come up with the brackets, I 'll get it welded up.

[PCRover]

Anyone build and mount a water tank for there trailer? I was considering mounting something under the bed with a metal "skid plate" to protect it. The trailer tounge is to short to mount a tank up there and I want to keep the bed free of a permanent tank. Ideas? Comments?

[60seriesguy]

There are a couple of companies out there that will make a custom water tank out of plastic to your specs. I considered this after seeing Mike S.'s trailer, but they wanted to charge me over $500 for what would have ended being a 20 gallon tank...OUCH! So my next attempt will be using a commonly available tank to adapt it.

I've seen 3 or 4 different ex-mil trailers with water tanks underneath, seems like the logical place to mount them. I figured right above the axle is the logical place?:

[60seriesguy]

Scott, with the right pintle hook, you won't get any significant noise, mine's OEM Toyota and it's got a pretty tight fit around the lunette.

[PCRover]

$500 is a little to much for a tank, I'll check around and see if there are any readily available that can be adapted to fit. Right above the axle is what I had in mind, there is plenty of room there.

Nice looking trailer! I like the cans and shovel on there, functional and a good look. Interesting place for the fridge, I like mine inside the truck where it stays clean and I can use it even if not pulling the trailer.

I need to finish up some minor details on my trailer then I'll move into the accessorizing phase with hopefully a water tank, jerry can holders, storage box, and who knows what else. The options are endless!

[60seriesguy]

$500 is a little to much for a tank, I'll check around and see if there are any readily available that can be adapted to fit. Right above the axle is what I had in mind, there is plenty of room there.

Nice looking trailer! I like the cans and shovel on there, functional and a good look. Interesting place for the fridge, I like mine inside the truck where it stays clean and I can use it even if not pulling the trailer.

I need to finish up some minor details on my trailer then I'll move into the accessorizing phase with hopefully a water tank, jerry can holders, storage box, and who knows what else. The options are endless!

Tell me about it, I got a bunch of details in the hopper, I'm still waiting to get some parts. BTW, that's not a fridge, it's just a plain cooler! :)

[PCRover]

I found a few of sites with affordable tanks in sizes that should fit under the trailer bed.

Plastic-Mart (http://www.plastic-mart.com/class.php?cat=8)

watertanks.com (http://www.watertanks.com/category/16/)

tank-depot.com (http://www.tank-depot.com/browse.aspx?id=8)

Going to measure the trailer today and see what size will fit best. Here's a 20 gallon that might work for $107.00.

http://www.tank-depot.com/productimages/R-RV72W_full.jpg


What kind of support does a tank like this require?
Does it need a full size platform to sit on, or will some wide straps hold it?

[jeffryscott]

so, does anybody have good ideas of where (close to Arizona) one can find the military surplus trailers? I'm not in the market now, but would be very interested down the road to do something similar to this.

Thanks,

Jeff

[Scenic WonderRunner]

The only good source I've found is this one..........but I don't think they are very close.

http://www.futurelogistics.ca/AftermarketSales.html


Maybe they can help you find a local dealer.

[BajaXplorer]

You might want to ask here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/M101CDN/
BX

[lowenbrau]

Very nice lid. Mine is super temporary, just housing the tent until my expedition rig is rolling. I took more than a few hints from Henry's trailer which I have coveted for many years.

[PCRover]

Nice trailer, looks like you did a spring over? What is your expedition rig going to be, anohter trailer or a truck or such?

How is towing the trailer with the tent on it, do you notice a high center of gravity?

[lowenbrau]

I can't comment on towing yet. I just did the springover this weekend. I'm hoping that the fact that it got 12" wider will counter the fact that it got 8" taller. I'll report back after this weekend's trip.

[PCRover]

I can't comment on towing yet. I just did the springover this weekend. I'm hoping that the fact that it got 12" wider will counter the fact that it got 8" taller. I'll report back after this weekend's trip.

How did the weekend trailer towing go?

[OverlandZJ]

How are you guys (without tailgates cut in) accessing the cargo box with tent opened/setup?

Are you folding the tent back up? Does the lid/struts hold the tent weight up?

Im the type that would routinely be into the trailer pulling something i'd need, then back in to return it to storage. I also put away all my gear before turning in at night. I just dont see frequent access to the carge area an easy chore.

[BajaXplorer]

I have just been finishing the lid for my trailer and am waiting for delivery of the tent, but I can answer your question. The lid in my case is hinged on the same side of trailer as the passenger side of vehicle. The tent folds out to that side as well. The gas struts can lift the tent/lid weight with the tent closed and hold the lid open. When tent is deployed it can open it easier because a good portion of the tent weight is hanging over the opposite side from trailer opening (leverage). The tent does not extend out so far as to bottom on the ground with the lid open.
I'm sure others will chime in here and tell similar procedure.
Design of my setup is credited to Gary, PCRover.
BX

[Grouseman]

Which way did you guys hinge your lids and why? I definately have to hinge to one side or the other and I will have a tent fold out to one side. What are the advantages of put the hinge on the passenger side?

[OverlandZJ]

When tent is deployed it can open it easier because a good portion of the tent weight is hanging over the opposite side from trailer opening (leverage). The tent does not extend out so far as to bottom on the ground with the lid open.

BX

Good Point, i hadnt thought about the weight being on the backside of the hinge.

[PCRover]

BX explained the access issue well with regard to tops that open from one side. I am still considering adding a tailgate to my trailer but will not make that decision until I take a few more trips with it and figure out how I want everything to work. My tent opens to the passenger side due to the trailer top opening from the drivers side allowing for quick access by the driver if needed. I sized the struts to handle the weight of the trailer top and the tent. Works great so far...

[Grouseman]

Rover,

Great explanation.

SS

[PCRover]

I could use some guidance on water storage tanks. Originally the plan was to mount one under the trailer between the frame but I am having second thoughts on it. The negatives are building up as I get further into the concept. Hard to mount securely without major fab work, needs a steel guard plate, hard to plumb into and out of it, so I am looking at other options.

The tounge on my M101 is really a bit to short to mount a tank there like the Advernture Tailers have so the only other spot would be in the bed itself. I see only one option there, that is a vertical tank at the front of the bed area. This would alow easy access and plumbing and be protected well. It would take up a significant amount of storage space though. It might also eliminate my original concept of the trailer being multipurpose by shortenig the bed and limiting the carrying space available.

Right now I am leaning toward dedicating the trailer to Adventure use only and using a bed mounted tank. This would certainly open up a bunch more custom modification possibilities.

Comments?

[BajaXplorer]

Gary,
I have also been thinking about a solution to carrying water that takes up less floor space than my current 5 gallon water carriers. Considering this (http://www.plastic-mart.com/class.php?item=1192) type tank vertically mounted inside the front of trailer box. It would provide 19 gal of water but the price is pretty steep.
Then there is the problem of how you obtain the water from the tank. It could be a gravity flow if a tap were mounted low through the side, but that creates a bunch of new problems. Maybe a manual hand pump that mounts on top, but it would be tedious getting much water from it. A 12v pump perhaps, but then there is the power requirement. A siphon?...
Obviously, I have not resolved how to do it, but I have been thinking about it.
As far as your trailer still being multi-purpose, the tank could be held in place by gravity and a couple of small flanges on the side walls to restrict movement. The empty tank could easily be lifted out when necessary, or for cleaning.
BX

[PCRover]

I was planning on a 12V pump to get the water out of either setup. Tanks I have found are anywhere from $90-$190 depending on the size and shape and manufacturer. I am willing to go up to $200 for a good sized tank if that is what it costs. I figure $300 for a tank and pump is a good investment to have 20-30 gallons of water available at the throw of a switch.

Good idea about making the tank (and pump if used) removable to allow full bed usage. I took some inside measurements today and will surfing for tanks that might fit tonight.

[ChuckB]

This might be a dumb question, but I'm still a noob so I'm going to have to ask it for my own edification (and hopeful some others :sport_box )

When you guys are talking about water storage in tanks like this, is this drinking water or water for showers, dishes or all of the above??

[PCRover]

It could be for everything. My plan is to use it for just about everything (shower, cooking, cleaning, etc) but probably not drinking.

[BajaXplorer]

MY answer would be the same as PCRover. We carry plenty of drinking water in the truck, but the water in the tank would have to be drinkable as well.
BX

[lowenbrau]

How did the weekend trailer towing go?

Sorry for the slow reply, I havn't been around. The trailer tows well, probably more stable than stock. The tires can catch trees a bit on uber tight trails but that was managable. Thankfully the trail was a bit drier this time.

[Mudy_Ovl]

PCRover,
If you haven't found a water tank yet check out www.plastic-mart.com and click on their RV Water tanks. 30Gal (39"x15"x12.5") would fit nicely across the trailer bed. And at $155.00, it is much cheaper than www.watertanks.com. Then you can pick up a 12VDC 2.8 gpm Shurflo water pump for $59.00. Add a little bit for connectors and hosing and you have a great water system for around $250.00 that is removable when you don't need it.

Chris D.

[CoastalDefender]

BTT because this is a good build thread.