Finally - a mod thread of my own!

[bootzilla]

It is about time I got down to some business - took me long enough!

Superwinch hubs went in over the weekend - double thumbs up! Takes so much unsprung weight and extra drag off of the driveline, and I am positive that the rpm's are a little lower now at 70mph! And they save wear on the CV joints, too - can't go wrong.

Swapped out the radio for a JVC HDRadio unit a few weeks ago

Next up is getting tint done - not the most road-worthy mod, but it will keep the doggie from roasting on road trips. :sunny:

Pics to come soon - if you want to see what the hubs look like - just check out Zaphod's thread - they look like that.

[photoleif]

cool! good move on the hubs. you may also notice a slightly better turning radius as well. also everything is a bit quieter in mine. w00t

[Scott Brady]

All right Todd! Now post some pics :)

[bootzilla]

The 40 days and 40 nights of rain we were getting here prevented any decent pics - but I will take some Saturday and post 'em up.

I took my original shots when I bought it and put them up on a cheesy-template website provided by my mostly-reliable DSL service - link is in sig, not much there yet...

[bootzilla]

And unintended addition to the mod list...

The Trooper justr got me home last night when the battery died :mad:

So...Optima Red-Top went in tonight.

For anybody considering - I got part number 75/35, and if you use the included height-spacer (comes as a kinda 'lid' attached to the top of the battery when you buy it), it fits the late-model Trooper battery tie-down bracket perfectly - same height as stock!

It was dark when I put it in - I'll shoot pics of the Hubs, stereo, Optima, and tint tomorrow morning when I get back from the tinting shop...

[bootzilla]

Ok, lets give this a try...

Hubs:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/trooper-hub-22.jpg

Optima Red-top - fits great!
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/trooper-optima-11.jpg

Tint (looks really good, but I have to get a couple panels redone, I think one of the guys as new or something)
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/trooper-tint1.jpg
Isuzu dealer-accessory Yakima rack can be seen in that one, too

[kevin]

Looking Good! I can't tell from the picture but it looks like the roof rack is attached directly to the factory rail slot, that is a much cleaner look than what I have found before. Most of the rack systems I have looked at have a metal clip that extends into the door opening, and the doors weather striping closes against it. I was considering building a rack for my Trooper but could not find a way to atach it to the rail slots. Perhaps I could buy just the feet through the dealer. It is good to see some other Troopers here, keep us posted.

[Willman]

Pics not working!!! The pics were a red X for me!!! I'm missing out on the love here!!..lol

[Willman]

Now they're working...weird!!!

[bootzilla]

The website hosting the pick is my DSL provider, and I have found that about 20% of the time, it likes to display the infamous red X instead of the pics - then you refresh - and magically they appear - it is very strange, and about as reliable as the DSL service itself, heh heh...

You're right about the rails, Kevin - there are brackets that bolt to factory mounts that are in the rain gutters (below the weatherstripping on the roof), then there as brackets that bolt to the mounts, and the Yakima feet slide right on.

The only negative is that the feet are plastic - which is dissapointing. Because it was designed as a ski-rack, there are warnings on the mounts to not load more than 50 pounds on them.

I put a Thule Excursion box on top for my trip this week (box is pretty light, only 23 pounds or so). I didn't put too much in it, just some light bulky items and a few small bags - and it had no problems on the 10-hour drive - I think that the 50 pound rating is conservative (I've read about others loading more on those rails and having no problems).

They look very clean and make almost no wind noise - I was going to take them off after my trip, but I might just leave 'em up there.

And for anyone who has just the factoy mirror-type tint on your Trooer - go light with the aftermarket stuff! I can't see a darn thing when it gets dark out - it looks absolutely killer, but I am going to have to have them make it lighter - the back windows look like a jet-black lomi-tint, and the front ones are really hard to see into - great for privacy, but bad for night-vision...not to mention the undue attention it could draw from the local constable...

[datrupr]

Looking Good! I can't tell from the picture but it looks like the roof rack is attached directly to the factory rail slot, that is a much cleaner look than what I have found before. Most of the rack systems I have looked at have a metal clip that extends into the door opening, and the doors weather striping closes against it. I was considering building a rack for my Trooper but could not find a way to atach it to the rail slots. Perhaps I could buy just the feet through the dealer. It is good to see some other Troopers here, keep us posted.

Kevin, if you pull up the trim along the roof, there are six holes on each side of the roof that are there for the non NA spec Troopers that got rack mounts automatically. The Thule and Yakima racks from the dealer are a bit spendy, so be ready for it. I found a guy selling his 99 Trooper and he had the Isuzu Yakima towers, so I bought them off of him. As soon as they come in I can mount my basket and lights. Also, be carefull pulling off the strip from the roof, try not to break the plastic clips, and after the towers are on, the strip will go back down over the mounts.

[bootzilla]

I've been savin' - now it is finally time to spend a little :box:

Starting out small - picked up a shorty shovel and an air compressor, since I will be driving on the beach next week - just a heads-up if you are looking for a cheap, good quality air compressor - Pep Boys has the Superflow MV-50 (packaged as the Masterflow MF-1050) on sale - $10 off, then you can mail in a $10 rebate on top of that for $20 total savings through Aug 26th.

Tomorrow the Yokohama Geolanders A/T II's go on. Price and availability forced me to go 265/70, but they will give me an extra 1/2 inch lift over stock, and will look and perform a lot better than my worn out Bridgestone's. Pics to come when it is done tomorrow afternoon!

I think Pro Comps are on deck next

[flyingwil]

Tomorrow the Yokohama Geolanders A/T II's go on. Price and availability forced me to go 265/70, but they will give me an extra 1/2 inch lift over stock, and will look and perform a lot better than my worn out Bridgestone's. Pics to come when it is done tomorrow afternoon!

I think Pro Comps are on deck next

Pro Comp what? They make a lot of things... Looking forward to the Pics!

[bootzilla]

Heh heh - good point there. I forget that Pro Comp makes lots of cool stuff...just not for Troopers. They do make shocks that fit, though - and I was thinking of a set of Pro Comp ES9000's to replace the overly-bouncy stock shocks.

I wanted to do OME 912 springs at the same time, to get a little touch of extra lift - but I had to get the Troop aligned when I put had the tires put on, so I will wait a little bit - seems like a waste to get it aligned twice in a row after cranking the t-bars.

The Geolanders look great - I'll snap a pic tomorrow. I am not a big fan of them yet on the road - they are rougher and a tad louder than the Bridgestone Duelers, and they feel much heavier on the road - I addded a few pounds of air and they felt somewhat better, so I am sure once I play with the pressures a little bit, I can get them where I like them.

I am headin' to the outer banks this weekend, so we'll give 'em a better test out on the beach. :sunny:

[bigreen505]

I'm guessing the ProComps will be a good fit given the weight of the Trooper. I have them on the Pathfinder and hate them untill the truck is fully loaded, then they start to feel good. On the Trooper my Rancho 9000x shocks are dialed all the way stiff and even on an empty truck I wish they were a bit stiffer, even running OME 919 springs.

[bootzilla]

Here we go!

Yokohama Geolander A/T Plus II, in an only slightly beefier 265/70 16

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/trooper-tires.jpg

Chillin' out beside North Carolina Highway 12...not exactly the smoothest road in the state, but certainly the most fun!

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/trooper-beach4.jpg

The Superflow/MasterFlow MV-50 air pump that I got at Pep Boys for $50 was impressive - I inflated all four Geolanders from 20lbs to 35 lbs in no time at all - I didn't time it, but it couldn't have been more than 15 minutes total. My cheapie $10 Target pump would have still been working on the first tire.

It does tend to run a little hot, so you have to give it cool-down time, and you have to attach the power leads directly to the battery, but it is worth it in time savings, and comes with a compressor-style output and quick-connect hose.

Rear Shocks are definitely way too weak in the knees - I found a website (can't remember the name, have it bookmarked at work) that is doing buy 3 get one free on ProComp shocks, so I think a set to ES9000's is next, then I am due for new brake pads, so a set of Indy4x Stainless Steel Brake Lines may be in order to firm up the feel and get a smidge more braking power for the bigger tires. :box:

And the storage issue will get contemplated some, too...likely after a few cold ones...:beer:

[flyingwil]

Looks good Todd! Love the beach pictures. What are you thinking for storage?

[bootzilla]

I was originally thinking a few drawers off to one side, to allow room for the dog, but now BigGreen's storage discussion has got me thinking of a platform with slim drawers underneath - that way I can bolt in an anchor for a doggie seatbelt, and I could probably mount my air compressor back there, too.

I have to get in the back and do some measuring to figure out dimensions. I'd love to take out the rear seats, but I am not sure how that would go over with my other half...it is not like we use them alot...

[bootzilla]

Greased the slip-yoke fitting on the axle yesterday - no more "clunk" - woohoo!:luxhello:

Tip for the Trooper guys wanting to do the same - if you can find a grease gun with a flexible nozzle - get it. Either that, or a small right-angle gun. I had a heck of a time with a full-size gun with a 45-degree nozzle - I ended up having to put the car up on ramps, and then bent the nozzle a little further with a hammer to get it to fit up in there. The front U-joint is a little easier, and the rear u-joint is a breeze.

Still waiting for my ES9000's. With the new bigger tires, I feel a vibe now and then up front - I want to get those shocks on so I can figure out if it is just a worn out shock, or if the tire wasn't balanced right...

[bigreen505]

Exactly what clunk are you referring to?

[bootzilla]

It would happen right after I let off the brake at a stoplight, as my foot was going for the gas - just soft little 'thunk' from right under the car - you could feel it more than hear it.

Didn't happen too much for me, but for some people it happens alot. Apparently it is common for the slip yoke to wear out grease over time - fortunately Troopers have a zerk fitting on them - I have heard of Rodeos either having a cap instead of a zerk (you just have to unscrew it and put one on) or none at all (which really sucks, because you have to remove the driveshaft to lube it, or live with the clunk)

After I lubed it, I read on Planetisuzoo that the thicker the grease the better - I bought synthetic Mobil 1, because..well, it was synthetic. No biggie, though - if it comes back because of the synthetic, then I'll just hit it with the grease gun again - a tube of that stuff will last forever with only the yoke and two u joints to grease...

[bootzilla]

Shocks are here! Rears are in, and I need to get a 16mm 1/2 drive socket to do the fronts.

First impressions - man, those rear shocks were shot! When you compress them by hand, there was no rebound at all - they stayed right where you left them...I am sure the fronts are just as bad.

For anyone contemplating the ProComp ES shocks...

-For the rears - the collar that goes inside the bushing at the top is the correct diameter, but is about 1/4 inch too long. It needs to be ground down...fortunately I had my angle grinder handy.

-The lower link gets in the way of the bottom shock bolt in the rear if you use a breaker bar with a big head. Don't make my mistake of thinking "I'll just pop one side of the link off to get to the bolt!" Once the new shock is on, it will push the axle back, and they link will never line up with the axle. Solution was to remove shock, reconnect lower link, reattach shock...:mad:

-Bottom and top bolts on the rear shocks are 19mm. Bottom bolts on the front are 16mm. You'll also need box end wrenches, or an adjustible to hols the top bolt while you remove the nut.

The rear shocks are 1000% improved over the worn out rears. I'll get a better feel for the ES9000's after I get the fronts on too...I can't wait! :smiley_drive: I'll snap a few pics, too.

Next question - what should I do next??? Next one can't be too expensive - I was thinking of one of the following:

- OME springs w/bar crank (not sure I want to re-aling it quite yet, though)
- Front sway bar disconnects
- S.S. Brake lines (since I need to do the pads soon, I figure I can flush and refill while I am at it).

Opinions? I am still conemplating how I want to do storage in the back, so that one remains in the planning department.

[ZooJunkie]

I can't get my rear 19mm off!! :mad:

[bootzilla]

I hit them with PB Blaster a couple of times, and then backed the car up on ramps so I had a little more room to work.

For the uppers, I used a pretty big breaker bar to get some leverage, while holding the other side in place witha big adjustable.

For the bottom, I got one side off with a REALLY big adjustable (I don't like to use them to remove bolts, but I was in a bind). The other side, I took off the lower link and got on it with the breaker bar.

If you get a breaker bar with a really slim head (kinda like that (http://www.ultimategarage.com/cdx-2b.jpg) one, just without the 1/2-3/8 adapter on it) you should be able to get in on that lower bolt.

A little PB Blaster to break up the crud, and a lot of leverage with the breaker bar...

[bigreen505]

I vote for rear springs as they will make the biggest difference both on- and off-road. Talk to Matt at Independent 4x about the difference between the 912 and 919 springs. From what I understand the 919's are stiffer. I have the 919s and I can't understand why a softer spring could be better, especially under the loads we tend to throw in the rear.

Selfishly, I want someone to buy the front sway bar disconnects to let me know if they actually work or if they are just a pain. I am currently running with the front bar removed, but have yet to take if off road. I discoverd that my right front shock is toast so I will wait to report on how the truck handles with the sway bar removed. So far I would suggest it rolls about like stock Trooper with stock size tires -- not great, but not unsafe, but steering response is better and the handling is much more neutral. What seems to have gone to hell is straight line stability, but that could be a shock problem.

[BajaTaco]

Great news on the shocks. Congrats!

I'd be tempted to get the springs too.

Very cool to see there are quite a few Trooper owners here now. Lots of info exchange goin' on :cool:

[jim65wagon]

Chillin' out beside North Carolina Highway 12...not exactly the smoothest road in the state, but certainly the most fun!

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/trooper-beach4.jpg


Man! That is one of my all-time favorite places to chill! Can't wait till next spring!

[bootzilla]

No need to wait until spring! The Outer Banks are awesome in the winter - no traffic, and you pretty much have the whole place to yourself!

Front shocks are on - big difference, the front's were as bad as the rears were - no rebound at all when you compressed them.

The fronts were more labor intensive than the rears to get fitted up - not only did I need to grind down the metal sleeve in the lower shock mount to get it to fit - but the bushing itself was too wide - so I had to cut that down with a razor blade, then I smoothed it out with the grinder (what a smell that creates!). I'll do a full write up tomorrow on my webpage - in case anyone wants to do ProComps, they'll know what they are in for...

Road feel is much better - I've heard people say that the ProComps are too stiff - but I don't think that is the case at all - in fact, the fronts could actually be a little bit stiffer - rears are just right.

Overall - highly recommended, but you'll need a grinder and some patience to get them to fit!

I snapped a few pics of the finished product:
Rear:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/procomp3.jpg
Front (hadn't torqued down the top nut yet) If you look at the width of the bushing on the bottom mount of the pic above, then compare to the bottom mount bushing on the front below, you can see how much I needed to trim:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/procomp5.jpg

More pics on my wepage in sig.

Question about the OME springs - are they all pretty much the same amount of lift? I'd like the improvement in spring rate, but I don't want too much lift - I already had to take my roof rails off because of a parking garage I use when I go up to Philly...

And I never knew this - but Ironman makes springs for Troopers, too - anybody know where to get these?

[jrsteffes]

And I never knew this - but Ironman makes springs for Troopers, too - anybody know where to get these?

I am also interested in finding out about them!:exclaim:

[jrsteffes]

Found a link to them : http://www.ironmansuspension.com/

[bigreen505]

Road feel is much better - I've heard people say that the ProComps are too stiff - but I don't think that is the case at all - in fact, the fronts could actually be a little bit stiffer - rears are just right.

Scott B. mentioned to me, and I think he is right, that Troopers need really stiff shocks. I have the ES9000's on the Pathfinder and they are way too stiff. On the Trooper I am running Rancho 9000x's on the "9" setting and they could be a bit stiffer.

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/procomp5.jpg

Where did you get those bushings? I need a set.

[bootzilla]

Oh, man - do they ever need to be stiffer up front. Things are much impoved over stock, but it is still pretty floaty up there. What else can I do? A set of Calmini or Indy 4x Torsion Bars??

The bushings came with the ProComps. They were a little smaller in diameter than the stock ones, but as you can see, they are thicker and stiffer. I wonder if Matt at Indy 4x could source the bushings themselves, or something similar...actually - I wonder if poly bushings would help stiffen the front up any...

[AZ_Husker]

Bootzilla,

You were wondering about the height of OME springs. I just installed complete OME medium system and gained 2" in the rear of my '93 Trooper.:beer:

[AZTrooper]

I tried last night to replace my old stock coil springs with the new OME 919s I got on Monday. In my thread I state that the damn coil spring compressor kept slipping. i had the type of compressor that use the rmovable fork on the bottom. Both the hooks on the top and the fork on the bottom wanted to ride slip down/up the spring. I couldn't get the compressor to tighten on the spring. So I tried the strut compressors, but, that would require me to remove the shocks to make room for both strut compressors. Proving to be a pain!!

[bootzilla]

I tried last night to replace my old stock coil springs with the new OME 919s I got on Monday. In my thread I state that the damn coil spring compressor kept slipping. i had the type of compressor that use the rmovable fork on the bottom. Both the hooks on the top and the fork on the bottom wanted to ride slip down/up the spring. I couldn't get the compressor to tighten on the spring. So I tried the strut compressors, but, that would require me to remove the shocks to make room for both strut compressors. Proving to be a pain!!

Man - I got promoted to another office, and it has been forever since I have had the chance to check in.

AZ - maybe someone else can chime in - but isn't it possible to jack up the back end far enough that you can unload the spring to the point where you can just lift it out? That would get the spring compressors out of the equation altogether.

I am having odd problems with the front end with my current setup - seems like the front end could be controlled far more - I am even feeling an intermittent vibration - anybody have any ideas? I am almost wondering if there is something up with the tie rods or T-bars...the ProComp shocks were far firmer than the stock ones which were completely shot, but the front end seems to be just as soft as the stockers.

Rear is perfect, though.

I am still considering whether to go with OME's or not - the problem is the parking garage at work - clearance is 6'3" - I think they underestimate a bit, but i makes me nervous. I already had to take my roof rails off...:(

[bigreen505]

I just saw your last several posts, sorry I missed them. I have two new Rancho 9000x shocks on the front courtsey of their lifetime warranty, but considering how much stiffer the new shocks are than my old ones, which probably had at most 30,000 miles, confindence in the shocks has not been inspired.

Todd, height is all about the springs (coils in the rear, torsions in front) and has absolutely nothing to do with shocks. I learned this because I had a blown shock and couldn't tell based on ride height.

What kind of problems are you having? Is it wandering, suggesting worn components (ball joints, tie rods, bushings, loose wheel bearings), or just floaty suggesting the ProComp shocks are just not up to the task? It is hard to imagine that is the case considering how stiff the Pathfinder is, but in reality I don't know if the shocks are too stiff or if the torsions are just way too stiff.

I still have not had the time to put my fron stabilizer bar back on and with the Ranchos set on 9 and D rated tires I would consider the handling to be just barely acceptable meaning that it does not inspire confidence, but if you go flying into a corner way too fast you can scrub off speed and go through smoothly without anything bad happening. I would say the handling is roughly the same as a stock Trooper. When I put the sway bar back on I'll back the shocks off to a 7 for a little more cush.

[bootzilla]

It is almost like the shocks just don't have enough to handle the car and the larger tires.

It does two things - when I hit the brakes at slow speed - just give 'em a little jab to come to a stop - the front end will bounce a couple of times, instead of just rebounding once.

The other thing - and this is the annoying part - I get a vibration on and off in the front end - on the driver's side. Mostly happens when it is cold. I thought it was an out of balance tire - so I had them rebalanced when I replaced the shocks (it actually started before I replaced the shocks), then I rotated the fronts to the back to try to help - and it still does it, but only when the tires are really cold - and not all the time.

It is really strange - I'm thinking the shocks just can't get it done, or else there is something not strong enough or loose in the suspension.

Doesn't wander any more than it did when I first got it - which is to say that you do have to pay attention on the highway - it likes to follow imperfections or the crown of the road.

Any ideas?

[bigreen505]

It sounds exactly like what mine did before I realized my shocks were bad. I guess first thing would be to see if they are dead (possible that one is bad and the other is working over time). Try taking them back to the place where you bought them, explain the problem and see if you can exchange them for OME's or Ranchos (if you go Rancho get the part number from Matt@Indy4x). If not, find out what applications they have for other vehicles, particularly Jeeps, and post them for sale on the relevant sites, then go buy something else.

As for the vibration, when was the last time you had your bearings repacked? Also check your CV boots. I can't think of anything specifically that would cause it, but those seem like the most likely culprits. You are looking for something that might be sticky when its lubrication is cold, but warms up with movement.

I'm not really a mechanic, nor do I play one on tv, so take all this with bags of salt.

[bootzilla]

Good idea on the wheel bearings, Bill - 44k miles, and I am pretty certain they have never been repacked - if they aren't to expensive or show signs of wear, I'll just buy new ones.

And I am shocked (no pun intended) that the ProComps don't seem to be stiff enough for the fronts - but that seems to be the case. I think I'll repack the bearings first, then inspect the tie rods and other suspension parts - the biggest goal is to eliminate that vibration - then look around for stiffer front shocks - hoping that will help.

Then I can get my VW project finished, and get back to the fun stuff with the Trooper.

And I was thinking lift from the OME springs, not from the shocks...I opened the sunroof in the parkng garage today as I was leaving, and with a two-inch lift - well, there won't be much extra room when I go down there - the pipes in the garage seem to be pretty good - but when I drive under the clearance signs - I can reach up and touch them with my hand....not confidence-inspiring. And that is on the first and second levels - the third level has a clearance of 6 feet - I duck when I drive down there now - no way with any kind of lift.

I really want the OME springs, though....:mad: I can always either be really careful on the first level with 6'3" of room, or else there are a few spaces just outside the garagefor oversized vehicles...eh - I'll figure it out after I get rid of this vibe when it is cold...

[bigreen505]

I understand what you are talking about with regard to the frustration. I have a lot of play in my wheels, probably close to a 1/4" at the top, so I am slowly working through potential problems. If I had the money I would simply take the same route I did on the Pathfinder, which is replace anything that can be replaced.

I'm not planning to repack my bearings as it was done about 20,000 miles ago, but from experience sometimes they need to be re-tightened after they get a couple hundred miles on them, which I doubt the previous owner ever did. Tie rods are next because I want to replace them with the Indpendent 4x units. Ball joints are last. They are showing signs of wear, but still have some miles left in them. Perhaps over the summer.

I think I mentioned this earlier, but I have 18.75" between the fender and the top of the stock Isuzu hubs at all four corners with a moderate load in the rear. Add probably 3/4" for an empty truck. If you compare that to yours, you will get a good idea of the actual height of the OME 919 springs. I have no idea about the 912's.

[bigreen505]

Looks like OME shocks are the way to go:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=939276&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14&fpart=1

[bootzilla]

I have the luxury of having another Trooper in the family to compare against - my Dad has a '98, so I drove down there and compared his shocks to mine (he's got Monroe Sensa-Tracs right now). I thought my front end was bouncy - eesh!

So I guess mine is not as bad as I thought - but it is still way too soft. It sucks, 'cause I had to do a lot of work to get those ProComps to fit on the front.

So I'll wear 'em out a little more (so the effort counted for something), then go for the OME firms - and do the Springs at the same time. Maybe I'll do his, too - that would be a pretty killer Christmas gift to get him!

Oh - and I measured from the top of my rear hubcap to the wheel arch - 17.75" unloaded. So according to your loaded measurements, Bill - I'll get about 1.75" from the 912's - which means I should be fine in the parking garage at work - woohoo!! I just have to leave the roof rails off, and I won't be able to go past the second level, where the clearance goes from 6'3" to 6"0'

Any other shocks that are stiff enough to handle the front end? I'd rather have the OME's then Ranchos, for the money - but are there any other ones to consider?

[bigreen505]

I think what that post on 4x4 wire shows is that lenght is at least as important as stiffness. The OME's are too short, but Scott fixed that with a small spacer. I would imagine there are many shocks on the market (Bilstein, etc.) including remote res. shocks that are up to the task, but finding the right length for a lifted Trooper is the hard part. I think ideally you want a shock that is the same compressed length as the stock shock but has an extended length of at least 15.5".

[bootzilla]

The Catalog lists the extended length of the ProComp's at 15.69 inches - which is 1/2" longer than the OME's which were designed for an inch or two of lift.

I'm not sure what the compressed length of the OME's or stocks are (the ProComp is 10.02 compressed), but I have no lift rigtht now - I wonder if the ProComps are too long, and I am bottoming out on them and wearing out the shocks in a hurry...

The ProComps are only listed from 92-00 in their catalog, which makes no sense, when you think about it, but I did have to do quite a bit of work on them to get them to fit my '02....

[bootzilla]

Finally got something done this weekend!! About time, huh?

I got an idea last week for a small storage project to hold the tools, the Xantrex battery pack I've got on the way, and a place to hold the flashlight, shovel, other random stuff.

Version 1.0 came out a little rough on one of the doors, but I hid it well, and it seems like it will work out pretty good - storage for the afore mentioned stuff, a flat surface to put stuff on above it, and there is still plenty of room for the dog.

It will also work out well for the mobile recording studio I'll need in a month or so.

Shot a few pics, constructive criticism welcomed...

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/cargo2.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/cargo3.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeqin3t/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/cargo5.jpg