Graham Jackson's TDI 110 Defender

[Scott Brady]

Joel was kind enough to do a great article on Graham's incredible 110 TDI Expedition machine. A true gem!

Grahams TDI 110 (http://www.expeditionportal.com/equipment/vehicles/2006/grahamsrover/grahamsrover.php#)

http://www.expeditionportal.com/equipment/vehicles/2006/grahamsrover/images/MainPhoto.jpg

I had the incredible fortune of being able to drive Graham's 110 during my recent trip to Colorado, and it was one of the true highlights in over 15 years of OHV travel and racing. The TDI motor has great performance and Graham can squeeze nearly 30mpg out of it on the highway. The suspension is very compliant with excellent flex and sway control (no swaybars). Organization and functionality is top notch, as only someone who has spent 200 days traveling Africa can accomplish. Awesome truck owned by fantastic people :bowdown:

[HongerVenture]

Graham's Defender certainly is amazing. I loved learning more about this Land Rover and I have to admit that it stoked my admiration for these vehicles. There is just something captivating about a Land Rover...

[gjackson]

Joel,

Thanks again for putting the article together! Hopefully one of these days we'll be able to get together and have a beer!!

cheers!

[Jonathan Hanson]

Yep; there's no question what picture still springs to mind first for most of us when someone says "Expedition vehicle."

[DaktariEd]

You know, I'd trade Jonathan's FJ40 for that 110 anyday!
;)
Anonymous...
:rolleyes:

[Scenic WonderRunner]

I was studying online about the history of Land Rovers and the different models that came out through the years.........and came across this great Link.


Land Rover History............. (http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/4/LandRover/History/)




.

[DesertRose]

You know, I'd trade Jonathan's FJ40 for that 110 anyday!
;)
Anonymous...
:rolleyes:


And I'd trade my siblings for it!:xxrotflma

Seriously, Graham - I've been watching your website with great anticipation for more great video and stories of your incredible journey. Thanks for sharing!

[upcruiser]

Great article on an incredible vehicle. Hopefully Graham, our paths will cross and I'll get to see that in person some day.

[paulj]

If you are fascinated with Series Land Rovers, check out the Britcom 'Last of Summer Wine'. Wesley, who hides out in his workshed, drives a LR pickup. You can even get a Corgi toy version of it. Some PBS stations carry the series.

paulj

[gjackson]

Seriously, Graham - I've been watching your website with great anticipation for more great video and stories of your incredible journey. Thanks for sharing!

Rats! I know it's been a while since I did any web updates! I swear they're coming. Just slower that I anticipated! :smilies27


Hopefully Graham, our paths will cross and I'll get to see that in person some day.

Absolutely! I'd love to see your cruiser too.

cheers

[HongerVenture]

...a LR pickup. You can even get a Corgi toy version of it.

Ah yes, Corgi toys... I wish I knew where all of mine went. I had a Rolls Royce, Citreon, LR pickup with wrecker hook, plain LR pickup... heck, even the old school Batmobile. They were actually toys my dad had collected before I was around... but I inherited them.

Back to your regularly scheduled thread...

[BajaTaco]

Joel, once again - a great article. :clapsmile


Graham, THANKS again for allowing me to have a very up-close and personal experience of your bitchin 110 while I was in CO. I was very impressed. I knew I would be. I am looking forward to the next time.

...and please tell Connie thanks for feeding me at camp - she helped me get up that mountain the next day. :)

[ChuckB]

110's are what got me interested in expedition travel. In a nutshell, Graham's is my dream LR. :D

[gjackson]

Graham, THANKS again for allowing me to have a very up-close and personal experience of your bitchin 110 while I was in CO.

You are very welcome. It's been a good truck, and I enjoy it. Kinda surprised more people don't have them. (Not really! :D ) Your Tacoma is pretty sweet though. If it were only diesel, it would be so awesome!!!!


In a nutshell, Graham's is my dream LR

Thanks Chuck! Land Rovers got me into overlanding, but I was in Africa at the time. I just had to have one for the Africa trip, and they are possible to get/fabricate. :D

cheers

[BajaTaco]

Kinda surprised more people don't have them. (Not really! :D )

Oh sure, rub it in!! :sport_box



Your Tacoma is pretty sweet though. If it were only diesel, it would be so awesome!!!!

... and again! OUCH! :ar15: :p

[ChuckB]

I was all over the East Coast Rovers website a couple years ago before I purchased my FJ60. The one problem is that diesel conversions are hard to make legal in CA,and having them build a 110 like yours would cost more than my life is worth... So I'll just continue to drool over yours!!

[gjackson]

I was all over the East Coast Rovers website a couple years ago before I purchased my FJ60

Yeah, I got a quote from ECR for my truck (same spec, that is). Came out to $110,000. :Wow1: :eek:

Luckily I didn't go that way and ended up getting it 5x cheaper! :victory:


... and again! OUCH!

No, really, you have an awesome setup. Not trying to rub anything in. Well, no more than the oil companies are! :ar15:

cheers!!

[ChuckB]

[QUOTE=gjackson]Yeah, I got a quote from ECR for my truck (same spec, that is). Came out to $110,000. :Wow1: :eek:

QUOTE]

Umm Yeah... that's never going to happen... :smilies27

[roamingyak]

Graham,

Any chance of some pictures of the inside of your landy and how you organised things? I'n gutting the inside of mine at the moment and having a redesign etc

Many thanks if so, or otherwise....

[gjackson]

Any chance of some pictures of the inside of your landy and how you organised things?

No worries. I'll post some pics as soon as I get back home. (In LA right now). Should be this weekend.

cheers

[roamingyak]

Much appreciated Graham! Just email them through if you don't have time to crop and edit etc

(I'm going to try on of these flashy smiley guys for a laugh now...

:1888fbbd:

[gjackson]

So one of the worst things when overlanding is all the junk that accumulates in the driving space of the vehicle. Stuff you need to get to on a daily (or more often) basis. Stuff you want handy, like cameras, water bottles, maps, shades etc. That all never found a real home, and I'm determined to change that. So the plan is to build a rack behind the seats that will hold the camera bag, a cooler for 2 nalgene bottles, a document case, and 2 mountainsmith packs. I'd like to make it with a closing top so that when leaving the vehicle I can lock everything out of sight. Underneath I'd like to have a compartment for the computer case. Then to one side I'd like to have 2 drawers, or maybe compartments for heavy food storage and other odds and ends.

That's the plan, and I'll post up developments as they happen.

cheers

[FourByLand]

I think that's the case with most any trip... its a pain reaching in the back for certain things... looking forward to your solution!

[Scott Brady]

awesome Graham, looking forward to the update.

[gjackson]

Update on the packing system just behind the seats. I wanted the compartments to be kinda like baskets. I also want to make it out of steel. To keep weight down, I was looking for basket structure material. Thought of expanded metal, but that tends to have edges that could grab and wear on soft-side cases. Then my father-in-law suggested the grates they put over AC outlets on drop ceilings. Perfect stuff! Pretty light, smooth, easy to weld, bend and cut. And he had a whole bunch of them! So, still working on the measurements, but I'll post pics of the materials as I progress.

cheers

[pwc]

Hi Graham,
I'm seconding the request for interior shots. I know my needs will be different than yours but I've started mapping out how I want the rear compartment of my 110 setup to hold stuff down and organized.

[gjackson]

pwc,

I'll work on getting some interior shots and shots of the materials I'm working with. I was hoping to be further along with this project, but for some reason work keep getting in the way! :mixed-smiley-030:

cheers

[pwc]

Thanks Graham. I saw one of your other pictures of your inveter. So if I understand it right, you have your Engel on the passenger/middle and that electrical area behind the driver's seat? That means you have both 60% and 40% rear seats removed?
That right there is different. :) I have to carry a child (60% has to stay) and half the time a pair of dogs so I'm looking at getting stuff off the floor in the back and put the light stuff over the wheel wells. heavy stuff on the floor and Engle where the 40% seat was. still dreaming though, but close to diving in to it.

[gjackson]

pwc,

I do have pics of the current set up in the back of the Defender. I removed the 60% of the split seat and left the 40%. The fridge is mounted next to the 40% seat. Behind that we have the load bay segmented up. Directly behind the back seats and inside the wheel tunnels is a large area that will soon contain a secondary water tank. Behind that is a custom drawer unit made out of a filing cabinet. On top of the wheel tunnels are two custom boxes. Top is all covered and we mount our table there. Try to keep everything below the rear windows.

The rack that I am designing now goes on the passenger seat footwell, in front of the fridge and behind the passenger seat and center console. That way the 40% is still usable.

I've attached some pics. Let me know if you have any more questions.

cheers

[Blair G]

Nicely setup Graham. While I understand why people like the 3 door for overlanding, having the 5 door for access is really nice. No real dead spots that you can't get to by just opening a door.
Blair

[pwc]

Thanks Graham!
I've debated the 40% over 60%. While I'd have to move the 40% if I used it (I'd rather have my daughter on the passenger side for safety), I like the raised deck in the back.

thanks for the ideas!

[gjackson]

No problem! I don't think anything on our truck is original. We 'borrowed' all the ideas from other people. That's just the way it works best.


While I understand why people like the 3 door for overlanding, having the 5 door for access is really nice.

I totally agree. I really like the accessability of the 5 door over the security of the 3 door. Of course I say that never having had my truck broken into!

cheers

[gjackson]

Pics of the custom underbody oil box are attached. Box is fabricated from alloy sheet, apart from the long hinge that attaches directly to the frame.

cheers

[gjackson]

More oil box pics

[gjackson]

Last one. I appologize for 3 posts, but the attachment manager is playing dirty tonight.

cheers

[bovw]

That's a very capable looking truck, very nice.

Is it possible to get a back issue of the first Overland Journal?

[Christian P.]

Graham

your truck is indeed very sweet. As you know, I love my TroopCarrier but a Defender was also very high on my list.

One problem for us with buying the truck in Australia and starting the trip right away is that we did not have the opportunity to outfit and prepare everything before hitting the road - things had to be improvise while on the road...

May I ask how did you manage to build this one? did you start with a NAS Defender and convert it to a TDI? or did you buy an older one?

thanks

Christian

[Andrew Walcker]

Oooooohhhhhhh, I never get tired of seeing pics of your 110! :drool:

[viter]

great idea about the oil box!!!
I was just contemplating for the last week incorporating some storage boxes into sliders I am designing for my truck and you just gave me a great idea on how to do it!!!
thanks a lot!

[gjackson]

May I ask how did you manage to build this one? did you start with a NAS Defender and convert it to a TDI? or did you buy an older one?

We bought an older one.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

cheers

[overlander]

Graham,
When you get a chance (no rush) can you get me overall dimensions of that box? Want to see if i can find something existing that is close, that will just need a little mod, or if I need to build something from scratch.

[gjackson]

No worries. I'll try to remember to get some dimensions this weekend.

cheers

[gjackson]

Dimensions for the under-body oil box are:

22x11.25x5 All in inches.

cheers

[overlander]

Thanks for that Graham. You have been very helpful!

[gjackson]

Made a few mods for the Land Rover rally. Bonnet stay and winch rope have been on for a while. Will be adding water system, Ham radio, rear load rack and dash panel shortly.

http://www.africaoverland.org/vehicle_iteration3.htm

It just never ends!!

cheers

[Andrew Walcker]

Bonnet stay looks great, had no idea LR did away with that on the newer models as I thought is was one of their better ideas! Gotta love George at RDS; seems like he carries a better inventory than Solihull! Glad I'm not the only one that feels like these projects are never done. Interested to hear about the dash panel and rear load rack?

[kellymoe]

Graham,

Your truck sits up nice and proper. What coils springs did you end up using? My 130 seems to nose down a bit even with the HD OME coils.

[Dmarchand]

ah Graham. Wish you had posted about the bonnet stay.

How about no bonnet stay? Sure makes life easy... :)
http://www.pbase.com/dmarchand/image/81599464/medium.jpg


Looking good though! What kind of dash panel? I put in the Mud UK one. I dig it and highly recommend it.

[gjackson]

Interested to hear about the dash panel and rear load rack?

Andrew. The dash panel is the one from Mud UK. I got it from EE. Very nice unit. Took a little modifying due to my late model dash, but it has a lot of space and makes a nice mounting point for the Icom 706MKIIG. The load rack is mainly a basket behind the front seats for holding all those loose items you use often that end up no where in particular and in hard to get to places.


Your truck sits up nice and proper. What coils springs did you end up using?

Kelly. I am running custom Safari Gard progressive springs in the front and OME 754s in the rear. The OMEs are 1100lbs over stock and give a lift of around 3". Mine have been well abused, so I don't think they are stiff as they were, and now they ride very nicely.


How about no bonnet stay? Sure makes life easy...

I briefly considered struts, but with a spare on the bonnet? Just wasn't sure. And the stay was $15, so quite the deal. :wings:

Thanks all. I'll try and update more this weekend and post pics of the dash panel at least.

cheers

[flyingwil]

nice work on sourcing the bonnet stay. I am glad the story you told me made it your site... man you have some stories on that 110.
I had the chance to drive it... it really is a B*tchin' LR Defender 110!

PS.. Thanks for everything while I was in your neck of the woods.

[Andrew Walcker]

Andrew. The dash panel is the one from Mud UK. I got it from EE. Very nice unit. Took a little modifying due to my late model dash, but it has a lot of space and makes a nice mounting point for the Icom 706MKIIG. The load rack is mainly a basket behind the front seats for holding all those loose items you use often that end up no where in particular and in hard to get to places.


Sounds like some worthy projects. I looked long and hard at that dash panel from Mud UK and also the one from Iron Goat

http://www.ig4x4.com/catalog.htm

In the end I took the lazy way out and have done nothing. Post some pics when convenient. BTW, nice choice with the 706MKIIG, great unit.

[gjackson]

... man you have some stories on that 110.

That's all we do -- collect stories!

:coffeedrink:

And no worries Wil. I know you were coming through town fast, but it was good to hook up.

cheers

[gjackson]

BTW, nice choice with the 706MKIIG, great unit.

That was a long and hard decision to come to. I looked at 5 radios, and was leaning towards a dual band. But with a trip upcoming to Oz, I thought it would be good to have HF. Although it was spendy, I haven't regretted it yet!!

cheers

[gjackson]

I concur with Dmarchand. The Mud-UK dash console is very good. Comes blank and you can add whatever you want. Pic of my new dash below.

cheers

[Andrew Walcker]

Graham, the Mudd UK dash looks great, what was involved with installing it? I've heard there is some cutting involved, how much and can you un-install it easily? Also, how are you running wires into the middle of the dash? I swear the Defender is the hardest vehcile to hide and route wires in that I've ever seen! Keep the pics coming!

[flyingwil]

Graham, the Mudd UK dash looks great, what was involved with installing it?

X2! Looks great.

[gjackson]

Okay, I've updated the site:

http://www.africaoverland.org/vehicle_iteration3.htm

Andrew, I've been pretty diligent trying to keep my wiring neat and tidy. All internal stuff is routed through the main dash hole and along the cavity at the back of the dash. It isn't easy unless you take the whole thing apart. Then its really easy. But either way, this is just a temporary solution. I've got plans for something a lot better. (VDE, hint hint!)

cheers

[ShearPin]

More great updates... I've been looking at the MudUK versus the Goat myself for some gauges - great picks of the instal.

I noticed you're running BFG's now - what size did you go with?

Henry
www.4x4freedom.com

[overlander]

I have the Goat installed in my 110. the advantage of the MudUK is cost and ability to accomodate double din stereo's, handy if you want to go with a touchscreen type format.

[gjackson]

I noticed you're running BFG's now - what size did you go with?

265/75R16

cheers

[Andrew Walcker]

Okay, I've updated the site:

http://www.africaoverland.org/vehicle_iteration3.htm

Andrew, I've been pretty diligent trying to keep my wiring neat and tidy. All internal stuff is routed through the main dash hole and along the cavity at the back of the dash. It isn't easy unless you take the whole thing apart. Then its really easy. But either way, this is just a temporary solution. I've got plans for something a lot better. (VDE, hint hint!)

cheers

Thanks for the additional pics on your site! Looks nice and you are really tempting me to install a center dash console!!!

OK, I'll bite, what is VDE?

[gjackson]

OK, I'll bite, what is VDE?

Vehicle Dependant Expeditions. Written by some hack named Tom Sheppard :) .

Sorry, letting my own nicknames slip in. He rebuilt the dash on his Defender to a thing of overlanding functionality and beauty. If only Land Rover had used his design for the new Defender dash. Instead they defied reason by removing the bulkhead vents and making something neither useful nor beautiful.

(But I don't have strong opinions about it :) )

cheers

[gjackson]

Looks nice and you are really tempting me to install a center dash console!!!

You have to be willing to take a saw to the dash, so be very sure you want to do it. No going back unless you buy a complete new dash tray!

cheers

[overlander]

You have to be willing to take a saw to the dash, so be very sure you want to do it. No going back unless you buy a complete new dash tray!

cheers

Do it! It's worth it. I have no regrets.

[Andrew Walcker]

Do it! It's worth it. I have no regrets.

How about some pics of the IG dash? I need some type of incentive to break out my sawzall on a perfectly good piece of British plastic:)

[Andrew Walcker]

Vehicle Dependant Expeditions. Written by some hack named Tom Sheppard :) .

cheers

AAAHHHHH, I see. There you go name dropping again:) I'll have to go back and check out the VDE by good ol' what's his name!

[overlander]

How about some pics of the IG dash? I need some type of incentive to break out my sawzall on a perfectly good piece of British plastic:)

I'll get ya some. Remember that there's metal deep inside that plastic!

[Andrew Walcker]

I'll get ya some. Remember that there's metal deep inside that plastic!

Thanks, looking forward to the pics. I wonder who messed up in Solihull and stuck some metal in a perfectly good piece of plastic? :)

[Dmarchand]

That metal is pretty thin and only lends structure to the dash tray. Cutting it is committing as last I "heard", getting a new dash tray is close to $1000 for a LHD defender. :)

With that said, I had no problem cutting mine...
http://www.pbase.com/dmarchand/image/81599474/medium.jpg

and

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/muduk/dash3.jpg

[overlander]

That metal is pretty thin and only lends structure to the dash tray. Cutting it is committing as last I "heard", getting a new dash tray is close to $1000 for a LHD defender. :)

With that said, I had no problem cutting mine...
http://www.pbase.com/dmarchand/image/81599474/medium.jpg

and

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/muduk/dash3.jpg

Did you have to cut the light gray panel behind it? Doesn't look like you did from those pics. If so, that's another difference. Iron goat requires trimming out the light grey panel behind it. The Iron Goat doesn't stick out as far as the MudUK version either. That can be an advantage or disadvantage to either depending on how you look at it.

I have a manual tranny, and I can almost touch the radio with my finger when I'm holding the stick shift in 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear. Looking at that MudUK panel, I'm wondering if my hand and the shifter would even clear it.

[Dmarchand]

Good question. You do not cut the light gray panel for the mud UK unit.

As far as touching it, I would be very surprised if you did touch it since it was designed and made in the UK and most rigs there (and everywhere) are manual.

No easy way to find out. But the good news is, if you buy one, it is easy to mock mount it without physically changing anything to get an idea of whether you would have clearance problems or even if you like the unit. It just slips over the dash and is nice in that respect.

[overlander]

Graham has both the R380 and the MudUk, so it must be a non-issue. So the verdict is less mod required with MudUk.

[adventureduo]

Joel you have a amazing 110. I would trade the 80 for it anyday :) Thanks for letting us learn more about it.

[Andrew Walcker]

Going back through the pics, it looks like everyone is running the 706MKIIG. How legible is the display in direct sunlight at that angle?

[gjackson]

I do have a manual (R380 as stated) and have no problems clearing the Mud-UK dash.

The display on the icom is pretty good. Only used it on a few trips so far, but haven't had any trouble reading it.

cheers

[Dmarchand]

I agree, the display is just fine.

[Loras BR]

Wow!!! Fantastic rig!!! :clapsmile

Graham, need some help.

I need to decide how to improve my suspension (Endurance).

I was thinking in OME springs + shocks, what do you think?

Why do you choose the Safari progressive springs in the front?

Do do agree that the 265/85R16 forces more the bearings and other differencial / suspension / drive parts? Have nay previous experience to compare?

Thanks!!!

Cheers,

[gjackson]

I was thinking in OME springs + shocks, what do you think?

For endurance I don't think you can beat OME. The friends we travelled with in Africa had OME springs and shocks and they had no problems over more than 30,000 miles. They were running OME 755s on the rear. I'm running 754s.

I choose the progressive SG springs because Greg at SG suggested them. Now having used them, I have to say they are amazing. With as heavy as my truck is, and a 3" lift with no sway bars, I rely heavily on the suspension, and I have no complaints. I get some lean on the road, but I can still easily accomplish 30 deg sideslopes which is pretty good for as heavily laden as my truck is.

Of course, you cannot get the SG progressive springs anymore, so I would suggest OME all the way around.


Do do agree that the 265/85R16 forces more the bearings and other differencial / suspension / drive parts? Have nay previous experience to compare?

I would agree that the bearings take a little more stress, but I haven't had any problems so far with the 265s. I also had 265s on my D90, and ran that for a long time. The D90 was significantly lighter, but it also didn't have a salisbury in the rear. I have no problems running 265s.

cheers, and welcome to Expo!

[Funrover]

Awsome Rig!!!!! I Love It!

[Roemer1]

B*tchin' LR Defender 110 :safari-rig:

I couldn't agree more.

Britt

[overlander]

Of course, you cannot get the SG progressive springs anymore, so I would suggest OME all the way around.


Graham,
What's your plan when you blow a spring? I'm still trying to figure out what OME spring #'s to get front and rear when it's time.

[revor]

Here's some #'s that might help.. I'm planning on helping out with the parts for a few trucks in the coming months. The Fox shocks seem to be a nice fit (stolen #'s from Grahams truck)

Defender 110 Overlanding suspension
Application Shocks OME P/N C/L E/L
(Priced in pairs)
Front Heavy Load (110 lbs to 220 lbs.) N115 14.5" 23.7"
Rear Heavy Load (440 lbs.+) N44 14.5" 23.0"

Shocks Fox Emulsion

Front 2X5/8 Fit 10" travel 80/40 16.1 26.1
Rear 2X5/8 Fit 10" travel 80/40 16.1 26.1

Springs OME Lift

Front Heavy Duty (110 lbs. to 220 lbs.) 751 230 2"
Front Extra Heavy Duty (220 lbs. to 350 lbs.) 766 280 3"

Rear Medium Duty (660 lbs.) 755 280 2"
Rear Heavy Duty (1,100 lbs.) 754 420 3"


Keith
www.rovertracks.com

[gjackson]

Keith! Great to see you here!


What's your plan when you blow a spring?

Good question. I'm not sure yet. The SG springs are amazing. I'm not sure if Greg would be willing to part with the specs or not. I haven't asked him. That's a bridge I'll cross when I get there. . .

cheers

[revor]

It's good to be here!!

Except I've noticed others that know me so I can't get away with anything now!!!!

So much for lurking around the internet!!!

Keith
www.rovertracks.com

[Andrew Walcker]

Hey Keith, also glad to see you over on this site, welcome aboard :beer:! Did you ever figure out anything to run your front axles on a 97 Defender with the tone ring?

[Andrew Walcker]

Keith! Great to see you here!



Good question. I'm not sure yet. The SG springs are amazing. I'm not sure if Greg would be willing to part with the specs or not. I haven't asked him. That's a bridge I'll cross when I get there. . .

cheers

If you ever get the specs out of Greg I'd be willing to sign up for a pair of those springs. I've riden in a Disco with the SG springs and Fox shocks and the ride was amazing. Unfortuntaly I never got a set before he stopped making them.

[revor]

Hey Keith, also glad to see you over on this site, welcome aboard :beer:! Did you ever figure out anything to run your front axles on a 97 Defender with the tone ring?

Hey Andrew!!

I have a customer that is doing the wiring thing that uses the rear signal to cover tracks of the missing front sensors.. He's just started I'll let you know how it turns out!!

I think Graham should loan us his springs and we'll take them to a winder and have them copied!! WAIT!!! That means I'd probably have to help take them out!! Errrmm Nevermind!

[gjackson]

I think Graham should loan us his springs and we'll take them to a winder and have them copied!! WAIT!!! That means I'd probably have to help take them out!! Errrmm Nevermind!

No worries. We can pull them and have them copied. They really are easy to take out!

cheers

[Andrew Walcker]

Hey Andrew!!

I have a customer that is doing the wiring thing that uses the rear signal to cover tracks of the missing front sensors.. He's just started I'll let you know how it turns out!!

I think Graham should loan us his springs and we'll take them to a winder and have them copied!! WAIT!!! That means I'd probably have to help take them out!! Errrmm Nevermind!

Man, that is great news about the wiring "fix", there is also a viscious rumor that you are running a special on them??? I'll give you a call in the next few days!

Like I said before, if the specs or some old SG springs ever pop up count me in for a set and I know a few others that would join up in a second!

[overlander]

Man, that is great news about the wiring "fix", there is also a viscious rumor that you are running a special on them??? I'll give you a call in the next few days!

Like I said before, if the specs or some old SG springs ever pop up count me in for a set and I know a few others that would join up in a second!

count me in on that.

[overlander]

How about some pics of the IG dash? I need some type of incentive to break out my sawzall on a perfectly good piece of British plastic:)

Here's my long overdue picture. I still need to assign the switches and add the gauges.

[gjackson]

Finally added info on the icom install and the luggage rack build to my site.

http://www.africaoverland.org/vehicle_iteration3.htm

cheers

[Clark White]

I LOVE my Tacoma!!!!....................BUT WHAT I WOULDN'T GIVE FOR ONE OF THESE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bowdown:

[nwoods]

Finally added info on the icom install and the luggage rack build to my site.

http://www.africaoverland.org/vehicle_iteration3.htm

cheers

That new storage space looks terrific, I think the basket is brilliant. Um....is there an OJ store? I'd love to buy a hat, vehicle emblems/stickers, and that cool bag!

[overlander]

Graham,
Keith needs a donor spring asap for duplication. When is your next flight out of town?

If you start to see strange cars parked in the vicinity of your house at odd hours, disregard it and stop being so paranoid! Everyone wears black suits and sunglasses in Arizona!

[articulate]

Finally added info on the icom install and the luggage rack build to my site.

http://www.africaoverland.org/vehicle_iteration3.htm

cheers


You turd. How'd you get this snazzy bag (http://www.africaoverland.org/images/truck/i3_lr_rackloaded2.jpg)?

[Scott Brady]

Great job Graham! What do you think of the Icom 706 so far?

[gjackson]

Keith needs a donor spring asap for duplication. When is your next flight out of town

Fear not, it is taken care of. You can call off your hounds!

cheers

[gjackson]

You turd. How'd you get this snazzy bag?

Check out the first few pages of OJ sometime. My name shows up there somewhere. . . oh wait, yours does too!

. . . but I'm higher up on the list. :D

cheers

[gjackson]

Great job Graham! What do you think of the Icom 706 so far?

I really like the 706. Of course I can't really compare it to anything since it's the only ham radio I've used so far. Easy install, pretty easy menu navigation. The screen is large and easy to read when moving. Only downside I have so far is the cost. Oh and the fact that if it is on when I start the truck it gets a power blip and goes unhappy. But that is warned about in the manual, so I can't really complain.

cheers

[revor]

Graham,
Keith needs a donor spring asap for duplication. When is your next flight out of town?

If you start to see strange cars parked in the vicinity of your house at odd hours, disregard it and stop being so paranoid! Everyone wears black suits and sunglasses in Arizona!

Said spring has been removed from truck and is in Route to the Southeastern USA for evaluation!

[overlander]

Hurray! My birthday is in February so don't waste any time!

[gjackson]

The things I do for you people!! And just so you know, I HATE the cold!

:shakin:

cheers

[Andrew Walcker]

Thanks Graham, a virtual beer to warm ye ol' bones! :beer:

[Martyn]

The things I do for you people!! And just so you know, I HATE the cold!

:shakin:

cheers

At least you have the Landy parked in front of the latrines :D

[gjackson]

So, it's been a long time since any updates to this thread, but mainly because the 110 is pretty much complete. There are mods coming and additions, but they are mostly small and not worthy of a post.

BUT this past September, the B*itchin' Defender passed two major milestones in its history:

First was country number 21 for the truck. That was Mexico when we crossed into Baja.

The second was 100,000 KM which was reached just South of San Felipe.

Way cool!

cheers

[kcowyo]

....this past September, the B*itchin' Defender passed two major milestones in its history:

First was country number 21 for the truck. That was Mexico when we crossed into Baja....

So cool that it boggles the mind. And are you still planning for an upcoming trip across it's 4th continent? The BD110 is the measuring stick.... :safari-rig:

BTW, those new BFG KM2's deserve some mention too. I thought they looked great on the 110.
.

[kellymoe]

So, it's been a long time since any updates to this thread, but mainly because the 110 is pretty much complete. There are mods coming and additions, but they are mostly small and not worthy of a post.

BUT this past September, the B*itchin' Defender passed two major milestones in its history:

First was country number 21 for the truck. That was Mexico when we crossed into Baja.

The second was 100,000 KM which was reached just South of San Felipe.

Way cool!

cheers
Congratulations!! This thread has given me some good ideas, keep it going.

I think my truck comes close to the number of countries it has been in. Sadly it was done by the previous owner:) I cant even claim to have taken it through 21 counties:o I still find coins and other African detritus under the seats from time to time while working on it.

[Hltoppr]

One of the best things about this rig is that Graham and Connie have spent so much time on the "day to day" livability issues, and working around/in the truck. Lots to learn about vehicle set up!

-H-

[gjackson]

BTW, those new BFG KM2's deserve some mention too.

Good point KC. The KM2s are 285/75R16s which is currently a bit big for the truck in terms of gearing. I'm trying to decide if I want to scale back the tire size or re-gear. The 285 size fits the 110 very well. We'll see how that pans out.

As far as the performance is concerned, I've been very happy with the tire. They are quieter than the old MT and so far wear has been minimal. Traction has been good in all tested conditions which includes sand, slickrock and regular dirt. I don't yet have a good feel for wet pavement, mud or snow.

Thanks for the comment Andrew. IMO a packing system is the most important modification you can make to a vehicle.


I still find coins and other African detritus under the seats from time to time while working on it.

Now that's plain cool!

cheers

[bigreen505]

Awesome Graham! So where is the new Technitop going. The 110 or the Rangie?

[gjackson]

The new tent will go on the Defender. The current one may go on the Rangie, but it is showing significant wear after 350+ nights. It's had a hard life.

cheers

[nwoods]

it is showing significant wear after 350+ nights. It's had a hard life.

That's bordering on TMI!

(Too Much Information)

[bryan062087]

Random question, but wondering what your gearing you are running? You have the R380 (diesel version?) and what gears in your diffs? Do you still have the 285 BFG's?

Pretty jealous of your truck and the trips you've taken in it, huge understatement.

[revor]

Random Questions require random thoughts and random answers from random individuals...

Gearing is 3.54 in the diffs with a 1.4:1 Transfer case. and an R380 for the 300. Same as mine..

I want 4.88 gears and a 1:1 transfer case! Or even better a Getrag from a Puma motor behind my 300 with 4.88 gears and a 1:1 Transfer case.

In the end it will probably be 4.11 gears behind a 1.2 transfer case and an R380 mainly because it's free.

[discotdi]

Sorry if someone has addressed this already. I did not read all 12 pages of this.
But how do you manage 30 MPG?! My 300 tdi Disco only gets about 21?

[nickt]

But how do you manage 30 MPG?!

My milage always improves when I use Imperial Gallons. :P

Nick.

[discotdi]

yes that helps.

[Connie]

But how do you manage 30 MPG?! My 300 tdi Disco only gets about 21?
It only got that kind of milage before all of the stuff was put on it and we were driving it back from the West Coast on the highway. The milage isn't quite that good any more, I think its around 24 now.

Graham can correct me if that's wrong when he gets back to internet access. :safari-rig:

[discotdi]

still, 24 rocks with all that stuff. No tweaks to the Engine to achieve that? My eng. must just be really shagged out.

[gjackson]

still, 24 rocks with all that stuff. No tweaks to the Engine to achieve that? My eng. must just be really shagged out.

No tweaks. But my understanding is that from the factory the Defender 300 is detuned compared to the Disco 300. That may account for the better mileage, but I tend to doubt it. I'll be quite interested to see what the RR gets when I finally get her on the road.

cheers

[michaelgroves]

But how do you manage 30 MPG?! My 300 tdi Disco only gets about 21?

A manual 300TDi Discovery should get 30 miles/imp gal (25miles/USgal) pretty easily, and a Defender much the same, although at 60mph and above the Defender's fuel consumption starts to rise quickly. The Disco won't do so well over 65mph either. Graham is right, the Defender is detuned vs. the Discovery. If you've an auto, that will probably be worth a mpg or so.

The usual suspects: dirty air cleaner, blocked EGR valve, dragging handbrake, injectors or injector pump need attention (maybe just adjustment), lots of others.

[Connie]

A great mechanic is also helpful.:D
http://media.bigoo.ws/content/image/funny/funny_364.jpg

[Nonimouse]

You have two states of tune on the 300Tdi. 111bhp (on UK diesel which has a much higher calorific value to US diesel) and the '97 'fly by wire version fitted to the Discovery - this had more power; how much is a much argued thing but figures vary from 121bhp to 130bhp.

There is a school of thought (which I belong to) that the 111bhp figure quoted is actually a factory 'lie', as having spent a shed load of money on the development of the 300, Land Rover discovered it actually put out less than the 200! Drive both back to back in the same type and spec vehicle and you will understand.

However they are both superb engines with few faults. The 300 has a small water jacket than the 200 so is more susceptable to hot running, the 200 is a 'wet' engine; ie oil use is par for the course. Land Rover allowed upto 2 litres per 1000miles as normal running!

The multiple V belt on the 300 definately saps more power than the 200's single V but it allows the cam belt to be changed without dropping the coolant.

There are some wild figure around for tuning, but in the real world a 25% power increase is relatively simple. With more serious work you can reliably double the output. The draw back being that it's only 2.5litres, so you will lose form one end of the rev range to gain at the other. I find that mild tweaks are far better. Avoid the full width 'coolers as they are simply not needed unless you want to go crazy. The AliSport 300Tdi unit made for the Auto Disco will decrease charge temp by 50% more than the standard. It will fit both 200 and 300 and only takes up the same space as the standard unit. Lose the center box, dump the standard air pipes for non deformable units. Turn the 'on demand' diaphragm to 3 o'clock from 12noon and turn the fuel to 2 o'clock form 12 noon. If you want the boost to come on sooner, that's up to you. Anything else needs a boost guage and a EGT sender.

On the 300 dump that EGR unit asap

Both 200 and 300 suffer from poor injectors. UK Diesel will reduce the mist to a spray in 60K and the injectors will need a re-build at 80K plus or there is a danger of hot spotting the piston.

Water wetter works well for making the 200 WARM UP (not cool) as it's notorious for running cold.

Semi synthectic works better than synthetic

Oil change at 3k on road use and 1.5 to 2k on off road

Don't forget the tappets on the 200

Never believe a 110/130/90 factory temperature gauge - they lie!

Both engines benefit form fater spool up of the turbo - so reduce the restrictions. However a straight through pipe makes them sound like a T55...

300's are notorious for minor head cracking around the glow plugs. This is fine until you tune the lump...

Sorry for any Egg Sucking instruction

[bigreen505]

http://media.bigoo.ws/content/image/funny/funny_364.jpg

Holly crap the engine fell out! :eek: How did that happen?

[Colorado David]

A great mechanic is also helpful.:D
http://media.bigoo.ws/content/image/funny/funny_364.jpg

Give a cat a hammer and everything looks like a nail!

[Maryland 110]

You have two states of tune on the 300Tdi. 111bhp (on UK diesel which has a much higher calorific value to US diesel) and the '97 'fly by wire version fitted to the Discovery - this had more power; how much is a much argued thing but figures vary from 121bhp to 130bhp.

There is a school of thought (which I belong to) that the 111bhp figure quoted is actually a factory 'lie', as having spent a shed load of money on the development of the 300, Land Rover discovered it actually put out less than the 200! Drive both back to back in the same type and spec vehicle and you will understand.

However they are both superb engines with few faults. The 300 has a small water jacket than the 200 so is more susceptable to hot running, the 200 is a 'wet' engine; ie oil use is par for the course. Land Rover allowed upto 2 litres per 1000miles as normal running!

The multiple V belt on the 300 definately saps more power than the 200's single V but it allows the cam belt to be changed without dropping the coolant.

There are some wild figure around for tuning, but in the real world a 25% power increase is relatively simple. With more serious work you can reliably double the output. The draw back being that it's only 2.5litres, so you will lose form one end of the rev range to gain at the other. I find that mild tweaks are far better. Avoid the full width 'coolers as they are simply not needed unless you want to go crazy. The AliSport 300Tdi unit made for the Auto Disco will decrease charge temp by 50% more than the standard. It will fit both 200 and 300 and only takes up the same space as the standard unit. Lose the center box, dump the standard air pipes for non deformable units. Turn the 'on demand' diaphragm to 3 o'clock from 12noon and turn the fuel to 2 o'clock form 12 noon. If you want the boost to come on sooner, that's up to you. Anything else needs a boost guage and a EGT sender.

On the 300 dump that EGR unit asap

Both 200 and 300 suffer from poor injectors. UK Diesel will reduce the mist to a spray in 60K and the injectors will need a re-build at 80K plus or there is a danger of hot spotting the piston.

Water wetter works well for making the 200 WARM UP (not cool) as it's notorious for running cold.

Semi synthectic works better than synthetic

Oil change at 3k on road use and 1.5 to 2k on off road

Don't forget the tappets on the 200

Never believe a 110/130/90 factory temperature gauge - they lie!

Both engines benefit form fater spool up of the turbo - so reduce the restrictions. However a straight through pipe makes them sound like a T55...

300's are notorious for minor head cracking around the glow plugs. This is fine until you tune the lump...

Sorry for any Egg Sucking instruction


Nicely done ! The mileage quotes also have something to do with the roads being run. As you mention mileage drops quickly when road speed exceeds 60. Here in the states, 60 is slow in most area's which is why some complain of low mpg. I get great economy in a 200 110 with a 1.4 tcase and 33's until I do a road trip where speeds are 70-75mph or higher then it drops to high teens. My brother swapped in a 1.2 tcase into his tdi 110 and his truck is now geared well for highways speeds, but has a tall first gear that requires him to shift to low range when driving/crawling around his farm. I have also noticed that the 200 runs cold (180 or lower on the VDO gauge year round) until road speed exceeds 65mph around 2000 rpm. I think this has to do with the coolant speed through the radiator @ that rpm rather than airflow through the radiator. @ 75mph the engine is turning 2500 rpm and runs @ 200f degrees. I am considering switching to a 1.2 @ somepoint primarily to keep the engine in its happy place/zone.

[michaelgroves]

You have two states of tune on the 300Tdi. 111bhp (on UK diesel which has a much higher calorific value to US diesel) and the '97 'fly by wire version fitted to the Discovery - this had more power; how much is a much argued thing but figures vary from 121bhp to 130bhp.

There is a school of thought (which I belong to) that the 111bhp figure quoted is actually a factory 'lie', as having spent a shed load of money on the development of the 300, Land Rover discovered it actually put out less than the 200! Drive both back to back in the same type and spec vehicle and you will understand.

However they are both superb engines with few faults. The 300 has a small water jacket than the 200 so is more susceptable to hot running, the 200 is a 'wet' engine; ie oil use is par for the course. Land Rover allowed upto 2 litres per 1000miles as normal running!

The multiple V belt on the 300 definately saps more power than the 200's single V but it allows the cam belt to be changed without dropping the coolant.

There are some wild figure around for tuning, but in the real world a 25% power increase is relatively simple. With more serious work you can reliably double the output. The draw back being that it's only 2.5litres, so you will lose form one end of the rev range to gain at the other. I find that mild tweaks are far better. Avoid the full width 'coolers as they are simply not needed unless you want to go crazy. The AliSport 300Tdi unit made for the Auto Disco will decrease charge temp by 50% more than the standard. It will fit both 200 and 300 and only takes up the same space as the standard unit. Lose the center box, dump the standard air pipes for non deformable units. Turn the 'on demand' diaphragm to 3 o'clock from 12noon and turn the fuel to 2 o'clock form 12 noon. If you want the boost to come on sooner, that's up to you. Anything else needs a boost guage and a EGT sender.

On the 300 dump that EGR unit asap

Both 200 and 300 suffer from poor injectors. UK Diesel will reduce the mist to a spray in 60K and the injectors will need a re-build at 80K plus or there is a danger of hot spotting the piston.

Water wetter works well for making the 200 WARM UP (not cool) as it's notorious for running cold.

Semi synthectic works better than synthetic

Oil change at 3k on road use and 1.5 to 2k on off road

Don't forget the tappets on the 200

Never believe a 110/130/90 factory temperature gauge - they lie!

Both engines benefit form fater spool up of the turbo - so reduce the restrictions. However a straight through pipe makes them sound like a T55...

300's are notorious for minor head cracking around the glow plugs. This is fine until you tune the lump...

Sorry for any Egg Sucking instruction

Good stuff on the 300Tdi!

I'll add a few:

The 300Tdi has a reputation for being extrememly variable in it's subjective feeling of power. Drive one Land Rover, and it feels sluggish and tight, compared to another which seems to fly. I've had one or two of both kinds, and the difference is very noticeable. If you're unfortunate enough to get a sluggish one, try as you might it never becomes a flyer. (Although you can do a lot to fix actual problems, of course, or tune either of them to get more power. I'm talking about comparing two standard engines, where with nothing wrong can be found with either of them. Weird).

I was wrong about the Defender having less power than a Discovery - my reading now tells me they were all the same except the automatics, which were given a few extra horsepower to compensate for the gearbox's performance penalty.

I'd go a step further than Nonimous on the temperature guage thing, and suggest fitting an audible temp alarm. They run cool even flat out in high ambient temperatures, when everything working well. But if something does go wrong, like a thermostat or water pump, say, and she boils - it's not pretty.

On the other hand, I'd disagree on the oil thing. I'm a great believer in good fully synthetic oils (after the engine is fully run in). My tame mechanic (who hasn't got one?) used to service a company fleet of 300TDi Defenders in Spain, which regularly clocked up over 200,000 miles before disposal. On the rare occasions he had to open up one of the high mileage engines, they were like new inside, even showing the original honing marks. Oil and filter changes were done at the standard 10,000km, even in the dusty conditions. (They don't use oil, but they have a huge oil capacity - around 7 litres!).

[Nonimouse]

Michael

There's an Australian company that make a very nice low level warning system. A chap in the UK imports them

http://www.coolantalarm.co.uk/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=18

I think the oil is a subjective thing - semi synth and very regular oil changes V's fully synth and less rgular oil changes. As a 200Tdi nut, putting synth oil in is like throwing money on the highway. I did once spend a whole weekend changing every leaking gasket and seal on a 200Tdi (with no excessive crank pressure) OEM seals all round with a smear of Hylomar. Within a week the Vacuum pump seal was seeping. It's like raising the Titanic or stopping an LT230 form leaking - impossible

The 300 is better but that blessed oil leak form the front RHS of the head always comes back!

I can honestly say that of all the diesel engines I have owned/worked on/fitted/played with the 200/300Tdi's are my favourite (closely followed by the 2.8/3.1/3.9 4cyl Isuzu lumps and the Nissan SD3.3T

There is an '86 110 CSW for sale down the road from me. Fully prepped for travel and balloon chasing 20 years ago and then well maintained from then on. It's fitted with an LT85 mated to a 3.9 Isuzu Turbo (no 'cooler). I lust after than bus. It's got triple batteries, X9, Disc braked LSD'd Salisbury, Vented discs on the front, Saudi Spec air con, twin tanks, two eberspachers. Sadly the owner is stuck at £3.5K

[gjackson]

Drive one Land Rover, and it feels sluggish and tight, compared to another which seems to fly

That is the truth. Keith's 110 has the same gearing and tires as mine and his flies. I guess I got a slug. But it has been a reliable slug for all that. I wonder if the difference between engines doesn't come down to the timing belt. It seems a couple of mm difference in position on the cam or the injection pump can make a big difference, but the timing marks can be hard to get within a couple of mm. The injection pump and crank obviously have detents, but the cam doesn't.

I just did the timing belt on the RR and it took a while to get the cam position correct. Have to see how she runs.

Thanks for all the great 300 info.

cheers

[michaelgroves]

The 300 is better but that blessed oil leak form the front RHS of the head always comes back!



Yup, that's a factory fitment.

We should get together for a beer next time I'm down in the West Country. I'm in Notts, but I travel around a bit. :beer: :beer:

[Nonimouse]

Beer is good but Cider is finer.

Are you going to Eastnor?

[michaelgroves]

Beer is good but Cider is finer.

Are you going to Eastnor?

It certainly makes for a fine hangover! I doubt I'll get down to Eastnor next weekend, but I might - I'll keep you posted if I do.

[Nonimouse]

The cider down here doesn't give you a hangover - it's made from angels tears mixed with fermented apple juice. It's the ambrosia of the gods. What gives you a hangover is when you freeze the water out of it and drink what remains. However this classes as one of your five a day.

PM me if you decide to go

[gjackson]

So close to two years later . . .

I'm not one to advocate engine mods on an overland vehicle. Usually such mods just end up decreasing reliability and increasing headaches, while temporarily increasing the 'fun' factor. So it was with a great deal of fore-thought that I entered into this latest mod on the 110.

Anyone who has driven a loaded 300tdi D110 will be intimately acquainted with the term 'turbo lag'. The tiny little turbo that LR supplied for the 300 does an adequate job at mid to high rpm, but at low rpm there just isn't anything there. For a fully loaded expedition truck this can mean dropping into low range to get up steep hills or seriously abusing the clutch. Well, that's a bit of an overstatement. A well tuned 300 can certainly move the metal, but it suffers at low rpm.

So enter the M&D Engineering Garrett 22 VNT kit for the 300tdi Defender. It's been mentioned in other threads and on D90:
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46623

This past weekend Keith and I fitted it to the Bitchin' Defender. And what a difference! The turbo does NOT increase power, but it does bring on torque at lower rpm, making the 300 much more drivable. Accelerating away from a stop is now effortless, and requires no clutch slipping even on serious inclines. Fewer gear changes are required when climbing as the engine can now power out of the low rpm doldrums. Can't wipe the fat smile off my face!

So we'll see how the reliability holds up. Since there is no increased power output from the motor, there shouldn't be any introduced issues there. The only issues will most likely come from the fitment and finish of the M&D kit.

And this is a true bolt in kit. Has everything you will need to complete the job in about 4 hours. Everything from intake to exhaust. Very slick.

So far driving impressions are great. I get less black smoke at low rpm (predictably). I should get better fuel economy, something I'll check on my way out to Telluride for a Land Rover launch event this week.

Some pics:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=45738&stc=1&d=1282623169
The kit comes with everything you need

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=45739&stc=1&d=1282623169
How the factory supplies things

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=45740&stc=1&d=1282623169
The stock turbo

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=45741&stc=1&d=1282623169
Intake and exhaust off

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=45742&stc=1&d=1282623169
Replacement gasket and exhaust manifold

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=45743&stc=1&d=1282623169
New turbo in place

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=45744&stc=1&d=1282623169
Final fitment is neat and seems to work a charm

cheers

[R_Lefebvre]

Graham, the kit looks good, and I agree that careful selection of mods shouldn't decrease durability, and generally the kit looks good. Except... I would throw away all those worm screw clamps and replace them with T-bolt band clamps. T-bolt band clamps are vastly superior in clamping force and durability.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=CLC-CLA-002&Category_Code=CLA

Also, some of those pipes (or all of them) appear not to have been bead rolled. They really need to be. Especially the boost side. You'll risk getting a blow-off. I've suffered them myself, and now ALL my pipes are bead rolled. An alternative is simply to weld a bead onto the end of the pipes.

And that black piece of silicone hose, not sure on the quality, looks like it was cut with a chain saw. I really prefer hump connectors wherever possible. They act like a bellows, and allow the hose to accomodate any movement without strain.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-SIL-048&Category_Code=SIL-HMP

[Maryland 110]

Graham,
I had spoken to Keith about his right after he installed it and he was raving.
Your pictures bring some of what he was telling me to light. Nice write up. I can totally relate to how a loaded 300 stumbles off the line with a cloud of soot.
Whats the red canister behind the head on the bulkhead ? Curiosity is killing the cat.
Thanks
Doug

[overlander]

Graham,
I had spoken to Keith about his right after he installed it and he was raving.
Your pictures bring some of what he was telling me to light. Nice write up. I can totally relate to how a loaded 300 stumbles off the line with a cloud of soot.
Whats the red canister behind the head on the bulkhead ? Curiosity is killing the cat.
Thanks
Doug


The red cannister is a helton heat exchanger! Mine is on order so that's how I know (and he pictured it in his water system writeup).

Graham,
Those parts pics help me out a bunch with understanding my 2.8. I have an uninstalled EGT gauge, but I've resisted removing my turbo for the probe install due to lack of understanding of the components, but also because I have no gasket spares. Is there a gasket that mates between the turbo and the exhaust manifold piece? If I new I could remove the turbo and not be stuck with a broken gasket that would deadline my vehicle, I'd do it sooner than later. if I have to order a gasket from overseas, that will drag things out for me.

[R_Lefebvre]

You need to take a close look at your turbo inlet. If it's a standard exhaust turbine casting, you should be able to get a standard gasket in the US.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=GSK

Graham's does not look standard to me. It has 3 mounting bolts, normally they have 4.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT22/GT2252_452187_6.htm

Maybe that is a VW gasket?

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-159&Category_Code=GSK

[Maryland 110]

The red cannister is a helton heat exchanger! Mine is on order so that's how I know (and he pictured it in his water system writeup).

.

Mark can you pm or post a link to his water system write up ? Did you decide to come to MAR ? I'd like to see some of the neat modifications you have made like the onboard computer built into the cubby box etc.

[overlander]

Mark can you pm or post a link to his water system write up ? Did you decide to come to MAR ? I'd like to see some of the neat modifications you have made like the onboard computer built into the cubby box etc.

I'm going to MAR! Registered over the weekend. Stop on by! I'll be in the family section (wherever that is).

Graham talked about his water system design in Winter 08 issue. I'm doing something similiar, and my phase I water system will hopefully be installed for MAR. Phase II includes filtration like graham has, but the larger double filter that is good for untreated water filtration at 2GPH per minute (his restricts to .5gpm). If I'm going to bring my family along with me, they are going to want treated water for showers. We can always drive to a water source as needed, and ration when there is none.

[gjackson]

Is there a gasket that mates between the turbo and the exhaust manifold piece? If I new I could remove the turbo and not be stuck with a broken gasket that would deadline my vehicle, I'd do it sooner than later. if I have to order a gasket from overseas, that will drag things out for me.

There is no gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. It's just metal on metal but both surfaces have been smoothed. No leaks there on mine or Keiths.

cheers

[overlander]

Thanks Graham. I guess that means there's no reason for me not to pull the turbo for that probe install. You always have the most useful information!

[gjackson]

Also, some of those pipes (or all of them) appear not to have been bead rolled.

And that black piece of silicone hose, not sure on the quality, looks like it was cut with a chain saw.

The boost side is bead rolled. There is only one tube in the kit for the boost side from the turbo to the intercooler. (First pic, silver tube on right hand side). The intercooler back to the intake still uses the stock hose.

The black connector tube is a bit oversize for the job. I may investigate something a little better.

cheers

[gjackson]

Thanks Graham. I guess that means there's no reason for me not to pull the turbo for that probe install. You always have the most useful information!

No worries, glad to help.

On the cost side, I know there were comments in the D90 thread about the relative expense of this kit. The way I look at it, it's a great compromise between the cost of a new stock turbo (at ~$1500) and the cost of a 2.8 (at ~$7500). It's not cheap, but it improves the drivability of the motor, and, I would argue, lessens the stress on the motor as you have to use a lot less skinny pedal to do the same job.

Just my 2c. I'll report on fuel economy at the end of the week.

cheers

[overlander]

It will be interesting to compare economy of a 300tdi with the variable turbo to a 2.8.

[ersatzknarf]

Perhaps you might consider to add the EGT probe downstream of the turbo... That's what we did on my 2.8 TGV.

[gjackson]

Perhaps you might consider to add the EGT probe downstream of the turbo... That's what we did on my 2.8 TGV.

Keith added a bung post turbo to add an EGT. Have one, but it is currently affixed to the RRC manifold and shows no desire to come free . . .

cheers

[overlander]

Perhaps you might consider to add the EGT probe downstream of the turbo... That's what we did on my 2.8 TGV.

How about a pic of where you put it? From what I understand, post turbo will read a few hundred less than true.

Sorry for the hijack Graham. I owe you a beer someday. Actually, I owe you a few.

[gjackson]

No worries. Generally post turbo you will be looking at approx 300° less than pre. Try to keep the EGT pre turbo less than 1000, so less than 700 post. Or something like that. :)

I'm always up for a good beer . . . :sombrero: I'll post up a pic asap. Leaving early am so maybe not until the weekend.

cheers

[ersatzknarf]

Good job, Keith !

Rather than having the one in the RRC manifold fracture while trying to remove it from the manifold, it probably might be easier/safer to just install a new probe . . . ?


Keith added a bung post turbo to add an EGT. Have one, but it is currently affixed to the RRC manifold and shows no desire to come free . . .

cheers

[R_Lefebvre]

Yeah, I wouldn't mess with it. A new probe is relatively cheap.

[gjackson]

Good job, Keith !

Rather than having the one in the RRC manifold fracture while trying to remove it from the manifold, it probably might be easier/safer to just install a new probe . . . ?

Yep, that's my plan. New probe on order.

cheers

[gjackson]

So, with very similar driving patterns, ~55% interstate, ~35% road and ~10% low range off-road.

Stock turbo MPG = 22.92
New VNT turbo MPG = 26.16

cheers

[gjackson]

The 26 mpg is holding steady. Great upgrade to the 300. So far no issues at all with the turbo or the kit. And I love the extra turbo whine at low rpm.

cheers

[Redline]

Nice modification, nothing like getting more boost lower in the RPM range with less pedal.

LOVE that 26 MPG diesel economy! :victory:



The 26 mpg is holding steady. Great upgrade to the 300. So far no issues at all with the turbo or the kit. And I love the extra turbo whine at low rpm.

cheers

[overlander]

2 weeks ago I had the oil seals blow out on my turbo. Quite a surprise at 50k miles. Keith actually sent me his last one, which he was saving for his 90 so I could make the Mid Atlantic Rally in Virginia, which I just got back from. The 110 is back to running great. I must have been losing boost along the way. while the old turbo was out to be diagnosed, I had the diesel shop put an EGT probe bung in the manifold.

I found several sources, to include M&D of course, for replacing the turbo should you need to. If it wasn't for Keith, I would have had to wait on one from the UK. Nobody here has them.

I ordered one from a turbo specialist in the UK the had them new for several hundred GBP less than M&D. one is on the way to Keith now to replace the one he sent me.

I'm going to follow up with the turbo shop here my diesel shop outsourced the diagnosis to, to find out what killed my turbo. I'll report back. that has to be without a doubt the most expensive part on my whole engine.

[ersatzknarf]

Very sorry to hear about the troubles :(

Regarding parts, at one point, I was able to make email contact directly with the factory in Brazil and had ordered some spares from them. I don't know if it saved a lot, but the prices seemed rather reasonable. It sure seemed easier than having parts go from SA to UK then to NA.

I had some bad fuel problems, the winter before last, and originally thought that the fuel solenoid might have been the culprit. That was how I got to have a spare one ;) Anyway, I ended up going to a rather interesting part of Detroit to get one and heavy diesel the shop I ended up at said they could easily rebuild the turbo, if ever that were needed. Don't know for certain that they could have, but it might be a possible option, if that should ever happen again and there's time to seek such work at a similar shop near you. By the way, did you end up using the nifty cast elbow turbo inlet thing that M&D came up with ? I installed one, after talking to David, as the hose from the air filter did sometimes not like to stay completely on the inlet...



<snip>

I found several sources, to include M&D of course, for replacing the turbo should you need to. If it wasn't for Keith, I would have had to wait on one from the UK. Nobody here has them.

I ordered one from a turbo specialist in the UK the had them new for several hundred GBP less than M&D. <snip>

[overlander]

By the way, did you end up using the nifty cast elbow turbo inlet thing that M&D came up with ? I installed one, after talking to David, as the hose from the air filter did sometimes not like to stay completely on the inlet...


I'm assuming so. My 2.8 was a Defender crate kit from M&D, so all the parts are theirs. I'm working on my list of 2.8 specific versus 300 tdi parts. it seems so far that most parts of the 2.8 parts that would need replacing are 300 TDI original/equivalent. the turbo, alternator, belts and the head gaskets are 2.8 specific. I've heard of lift pump, water pump, tensioner, and all other gaskets being 300 tdi standard, and easily sourced in US.

I'm trying to get my old turbo, since the turbo shop said it was rebuildable, but then couldn't find the correct rebuild kit. I'm sure there is one somewhere. It would be great to find a S. American online parts retailer that I could web order parts from.

[ersatzknarf]

I think I had one of M&D's earlier kits, so if there is a separate cast part at the turbo inlet, then you are all set.

Regrarding the common parts, I believe you are correct about such things as the lift pump, water pump, etc. being the same as the 300Tdi.

As for the parts source in SA, it was dealing directly with International, not a retailer.

[gjackson]

Mark, any more info on the turbo?

cheers

[ersatzknarf]

Hi Graham,
Any progress on the Marshall ambu body idea or, perhaps, have you had a look at a "Condor" ? ? ?
:sombrero:

:ylsmoke:


:coffeedrink:

http://www.geocar.com/_lccms_/_00064/index.htm?VER=110509123625&MID=61&LANG=ger

:D


Gotta hit that lotto and soon ! ;)

[gjackson]

Ambu is still in the cards, but I figure I have to get this OJ RRC build out of my way first.

Condor: wow, yeah, seen those. I think I like the ambu better, but that's most likely my bank account talking!

cheers

[overlander]

Graham,
The best price anywhere I have looked for this turbo is from http://www.reconditionedturbo.com/in the UK. I've bought one from them already. Only catch is for international orders now, they only do bank transfer. They used to do Visa and Paypal but since dropped that service.

Their pricing for a new factory unit is significantly less than competitors so far. Here's some factory specs on the TGV Turbo. BTW, the -0001 was OEM and has been superceded by aftermarket number -0005

2.8 Turbo details
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
Vehicle Year: 02-06
Engine Size: 2.8L D
Turbocharger Frame: GT2256V
Turbocharger Part Number: 724652-1

[gjackson]

Good info, thanks for that.

cheers

[ersatzknarf]

Of course ! First things, first...

Gotcha on the bank account thing ! :snorkel:



. . . but that's most likely my bank account talking!