Datrupr's Mod Thread

[datrupr]

Ok, I know this is probably not technically a "mod", but it is the first bit of useful OHV equpment I have purchased for the Trooper. I know that in the unfortunate event that if you are out on the trail and happen upon a stuck or a situation that you may need some help getting out of, you always need some recovery point front and rear. So, check it out. :victory:

[kevin]

Aaron, I do not see a link to a picture. What is it that you installed on the Trooper?

[datrupr]

Well S*%t!!!! I forgot to attach the pic.

Here it is, sorry everybody.

[flyingwil]

:wavey: Aron-
Is that a shackle hitch reciever, or a D Ring mount on a bumper? Either way I am sure it will be put to good use. It also has some cool factor in my book! :luxhello: Looks good! Keep updating us with your progress on your vehicle!

[datrupr]

Wil, it is a D ring shackle receiver mount. and I hope it does not get put to good use, but it is always nice to have just in case.

And yes, I hope it does increase the "cool" factor.

[kevin]

That is a great idea. When I installed my reciever hitch I had to remove the factory tow hooks to use their mounting holes. I love the hitch, but was disapointed with the loss of the tow hooks. Hmmm... time to go shopping!

[datrupr]

Kevin, I got mine at Sesert Rat for $40.00. It is made by Warn and seems very solid. It does however have a 1/2" fitting as opposed to a 5/8" on the Trooper factory receiver. But that was fine by me because I wanted to get a locking pin anyway, and this gave me a reason, and I got an adjstable pin to fit my ball also. :D I thin that was $15-18.00 at Wal-Mart.

[kevin]

Thanks for the info. I live only a few minutes from Warn Industries world head quarters. I did not know they made the reciever D-ring. I will stop by there next week!!

[flyingwil]

You can get them from GOWARN.com... they are great to deal with.

http://www.gowarn.com/images/products/29312.jpg

[datrupr]

Yup, that is the one I have. I will have on the ready for Broken Arrow next Sunday. Hopefully I will not need it.

[The BN Guy]

Those things are quite solid! Been using one for several years now with no problems. Better than a tow hook in my opinion.

[flyingwil]

H He He He! I just got one today as my Birthday present from my wife! Glad she listens to what I want when I ramble on about what I want to do to my truck. :)

[The BN Guy]

Glad she listens to what I want when I ramble on about what I want to do to my truck. :)

Consider yourself lucky!

[flyingwil]

Is it luck or love? Either way this will be a great tool and I am sure it will get some great use!

[datrupr]

Picked up the new shoes the other day courtesy of flyingwil. The are Firestone Destination MT's 265/75/r16's with a fair amount of tread left. If my shcedule permits this evening I will get them mounted and ready for the rally this weekend :D. After I get them mounted I will post up a few pics and the mod thread will hopefully get rolling from there :)

[The BN Guy]

Picked up the new shoes the other day courtesy of flyingwil.

Good on ya! :clapsmile

[offroad_nomad]

Aaron,

Have you seen the write-up on Project WomBAT? (http://www.off-road.com/isuzu/wombintro.html)

The mods to that Tropper might give you some ideas to think about.

[datrupr]

Ok, Courtesy of Flyingwil the TRooper received a new set of shoes. Now, I say new in the sense that they are new to me, but they do have a few miles on them, and few left to go.

Anyway, they are Firestone Destination MT's in 265/75r16 size, wich is just what I was looking for. They actually give me a full 1" of additional clearance and look good doing so. I can see why Wil went with a less aggressive tire though, these things are NOISEY!!! Thats ok, as they end their life with me they will be replaced by a less aggressive tire. I also noticed that my turning radius is a bit less and my braking distance is a bit more. My acceleration is slower as is my cornering, but all minor trade off's for a bit more traction and better clearance and much better looks. here are the pics.

[Scott Brady]

ooooh, very nice Aaron :clapsmile

I am thinking of doing a little work on my Trooper as well. Maybe try a set of 255/85's on her with some sliders.

I find myself using the Trooper much more on the trail now.

[datrupr]

Jeez Scott, you put the Trooper in action, then semi retire her, then put her back in action, whats up with that? :rolleyes:

Actually, just l.ooking at it now with the new tires it has a much more pronounced stance and it is obvious that it is not at stock ride height any more. Just need that 1.5" OME lift and some sliders and we should be good to go. :D

[kevin]

All this talk about sliders has got me interested. What kind of sliders are available for the Trooper? Where can I get them?

[Scott Brady]

Jeez Scott, you put the Trooper in action, then semi retire her, then put her back in action, whats up with that? :rolleyes:


Yeah, I know. I am just finding a need to have the Trooper more capable off-highway as a transport for more than two occupants. I also tend to run trails when en-route to business meetings and conferences.

Either that, or I need to bite the bullet and get a new ride.

[datrupr]

Do not bite the bullet Scott, you know you have a great reliable travel and trail companion that wants to take you where you want to go. I have 106K on the Trooper now and she is still running like a champ with now troubles or worries.

[BlueTrooper]

Those Firestones look good, Aaron! I may have to add them to my short list of tire selections. They'll probably be a long shot because of the noise factor, though.

You've encountered no rubbing anywhere? You're still running a stock suspension (or close to stock), right?

[datrupr]

Roy, I have not come across any rubbing as of yet, but it has not been off pavement yet either. Next week I am going on a run and I will test them out there. I am running a fully stock suspension, so the extra 1" of clearence from the new tires will help out on the trails, and you can really see the difference in ride height. Plus, the wheel wells are a bit more filled up which looks better IMO. I will give a report on rubbing after my trail run this weekend, but I do not think it will be an issue. I also agree, the looks of the more aggressive M/T's is awesome, but I would stay away from them if you can, they are very noisy and a bit floaty on the pavement (probably because I have them filled to high on the psi), but for the price I really can't complain.

[datrupr]

All this talk about sliders has got me interested. What kind of sliders are available for the Trooper? Where can I get them?

Kevin, you can sliders from Independant 4X (http://independent4x.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=839915%7C1271660&PRID=1415543) which carries StinkyFab sliders that are weld on models as well as ShrockWorks (http://www.shrockworks.com/isubars.htm). I am looking for bolt on sliders myself, and am having trouble finding anywhere that carries them for the Trooper. I am also thinking of having them custom fabbed so they are the way that I want them and also possibly one offs. :rolleyes:

[kevin]

I have been trying to find bolt on sliders as well, no luck so far. I will keep you updated if I find anything. Thanks for the links to the weld on sliders. They will give me so design insight if I decide to build my own.

[flyingwil]

Ok, Courtesy of Flyingwil the TRooper received a new set of shoes. Now, I say new in the sense that they are new to me, but they do have a few miles on them, and few left to go.

Anyway, they are Firestone Destination MT's in 265/75r16 size, wich is just what I was looking for. They actually give me a full 1" of additional clearance and look good doing so. I can see why Wil went with a less aggressive tire though, these things are NOISEY!!! Thats ok, as they end their life with me they will be replaced by a less aggressive tire. I also noticed that my turning radius is a bit less and my braking distance is a bit more. My acceleration is slower as is my cornering, but all minor trade off's for a bit more traction and better clearance and much better looks. here are the pics.


Glad to see they are finally on! Looks good! Yeah, they are loud, but the kick up less rocks, than my Mall Terrians, and the previous GY Wranglers. (I was running flapless with the MT's, and had to put the flaps back on with the GY's) Hope they treat you well!

Enjoy 'em while you got 'em!

Wil

[datrupr]

Wil, thanks again, I am going to be putting them to the test this weekend. I am currently running them at 55psi and they are really floaty on the pavement. What did you run them at on the road?

[kevin]

Aaron, 55psi seems very high to me. Your tire pressure will increase when you drive due to heat expansion, pushing your pressure well over 60psi. I have 265/75r16 cooper ST tires on my Trooper, and am currently running 32psi front and rear. Your tire pressure could be different due to the way you load the Trooper, type of sidewalls your tires have, etc. I think that 55psi is most likely to high, creating a contact patch that is mostly on the center of your tread, this affects steering and braking saftey, as well as reduced traction on the trail.
Try playing with different pressures, and consult the tire shop that put them on for a recomended pressure. If you get down on the ground and look at the front of the tire when parked on a flat surface, the outer edges of the tread should be touching the ground, if they are not, they are over inflated.

[datrupr]

Thanks Kevin. The tires have a D load rating and I am sure they will withstand much lower pressures. They are also rated for 65psi max. I think I am going to lower them to 45psi and go down from there.

[datrupr]

I lowered the pressure to 40psi and the tires are not nearly as floaty. I am thinking of dropping them to 35-37psi and see that goes.

[Scott Brady]

IMO, I would run those tires at 35psi...

[datrupr]

I think you are right, at 40psi they are much improved, but still a slight bit floaty, I think 35 might be the right #. I am going to give it a try after work on my drive home.

[erin]

I noticed some floating when switched to BFG Muds, which were also quite a bit taller. Keep driving and you won't notice it anymore. It is a good idea to make sure your contact patch is good and even though. I also noticed slightly more noise at lower pressure , so maybe that works at higher pressure also. Mine seem to be happiest when contact is even across the tread. Hope this helps alittle. :jumping:

[datrupr]

I dropped the pressure to 35psi and they are hardly floaty now. I did lose about 1/4" of clearance and my fuel effiency has dropped quite a bit more and the noise has gotten worse, but it does drive better and handle a bit better. I think that is a fair trade off.

[erin]

:)
Yeah, I guess with the mud tread its give and take. I was actually surprised at the BFG's when I put them on, all the tire shops made them sound as if they were unbearable, but I don't think they are bad at all. Anyway, its well worth the improved traction for sure.

I didn't notice a mpg loss, just lack of power and 5th gear till the 4.88's went in, But I seem to get the same mileage no matter what.

Plus, they just look GOOD :Wow1:

[datrupr]

Well, when you get down to it the noise is a factor that one will probably get used to over time, that and I just turn up the volume on the stereo to help drown it out. The loss in fuel mileage is not greatly substantial, but for me it is noticeable. There is a small loss of power, but it is very nominal in the whole scheme of things, I currently am running 235HP to the rear wheels and the loss of power may feel like I am running 230HP, so it is not great by anymeans, and if I have not been driving this thing everyday for the last two years I probably would not even notice. The braking distance is a bit greater but again nothing that is greatly noticable. I do also have to agree that the aggressive look of the M/T's is awesome, and I will find out thier off road prowess tomorrow when I give them a run up in Sedona. I do like the way they look on the Trooper, they make it look like what it was built for, off road driving. :victory:

[erin]

:smilies27

Now I'm jealous as I just found out I have to work tomorrow. Have a good trip and crawl over something good for me.

[datrupr]

Erin, will do, and I'll try to get a pick of it for you.

[datrupr]

You've encountered no rubbing anywhere? You're still running a stock suspension (or close to stock), right?


After running Broken Arrow on Saturday there was no rubbing what so ever, so that size is a great fit for the stock suspended truck. They also added great traction, as there were a couple of uphill areas that if I were still running street tires I would have spun the wheels a couple of times. That did not happen. These are great tires, and I have to say, the noise factor is not as annoying as it was when I first put them on. I must be getting used to the noise :D

[BlueTrooper]

Thanks for the update, Aaron!

I'm about to start a mod thread of my own on Jack's forum and will address my tire selection first.

[+ d]

...They also added great traction...I must be getting used to the noise :D

Yeah, you'll get used to the noise AND the traction!
and when these wear out you'll be thinkin "hmm those interco's won't be that noisey..."


http://www.oramagazine.com/images/0503-mar/050304t-interco-tires/06photo02.jpg


:elkgrin:

[datrupr]

David, I don't think I want to go quite that noisy. I think it would cost much more to upgrade the stereo and headsets needed for communications amongst the passengers. they would feel like they were riding in a helecopter....LOL.

Roy, you should probably consider the M/T's, I am really liking them, they give the Trooper the look of the very capable 4X4 that it really is and you get used to the noise. My wife has already stopped complaining about the noise. :D

[flyingwil]

Aaron-

At the ExPo Rally I noticed you had no CB nor a 2M, do you have one in mind? We all know Scott is in the works for a CB new set up, and I was wondering if you were atching that thread like a hawk?

I know you are in the works for a fire ex. Just what else you got up your sleeve?

Wil

[datrupr]

Wil, I have a few things in my bag 'o' tricks. A CB is on my priority list and should probably happen early in the nrew year. It is also on my list for Santa, so we will see what happens. And yes, I have been watching that thread pretty closely and have gathered some very good information from it, plus I now have reference for future needs. I would love to go 2M also, but I think I can put that back a bit on the list. Keep an eye out on this thread as the Trooper begins its transformation.

[datrupr]

Aaron,

Have you seen the write-up on Project WomBAT? (http://www.off-road.com/isuzu/wombintro.html)

The mods to that Tropper might give you some ideas to think about.


Ian, Sorry for no reply, I somehow missed this post. Thanks for the information. I am not sure how much of that I can apply to my truck as that is the first gen Trooper they have modded up. But I am always looking for good ideas.

[BlueTrooper]

Kevin, you can sliders from Independant 4X (http://independent4x.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=839915%7C1271660&PRID=1415543) which carries StinkyFab sliders that are weld on models as well as ShrockWorks (http://www.shrockworks.com/isubars.htm). I am looking for bolt on sliders myself, and am having trouble finding anywhere that carries them for the Trooper. I am also thinking of having them custom fabbed so they are the way that I want them and also possibly one offs. :rolleyes:

Couldn't you just drill holes and bolt on the StinkyFab sliders?

I've looked at their website...they will custom fabricate just about anything you want. They're located only a little over an hour from me...I might even consider having them install the sliders (once I'm ready to spend money again, that is!! :elkgrin: )

Here is a link to their site showing a Trooper w/ the sliders installed:
http://www.stinkyfab.com/sliderslay.html

[datrupr]

Roy, I am a little uncomfortable drilling holes int he frame to attach the sliders. I am trying to find some options that use the existing holes in the frame to attach the sliders. I like Stinky's design, but I feel that they are a little bit under the truck too far for my liking. I need the step potion of them to much more functional as my wife will need them after the lift. She has a climb getting inot the truck as it is in stock form with the taller tires. So, if I am adding another 2 inches of lift then she really have some problems. But, I have not tossed out any options at this point.

[BlueTrooper]

Well, you could always just carry a little step stool! :hehe:

I agree about drilling holes in the frame...I was planning on going with a welded option when the time comes. Didn't really know there was an option of using existing holes. Come to think of it, maybe there's something that could be done with that and clamps. I imagine nothing would be quite as sturdy as a weld, though.

When you get closer to your purchase, maybe just call the StinkyFab guy...it sounds like he'd be willing to make any custom solution you like. I know there are a lot of good area to explore around San Diego as well!

These also look good:
http://www.shrockworks.com/isubars.htm
"Tube portion can customized to stick out more or less"
(I hope no one takes THAT out of context! :) )

[datrupr]

"Tube portion can customized to stick out more or less"
(I hope no one takes THAT out of context! :) )


:xxrotflma

[datrupr]

Get ready, a couple more samll mods are on thier way into the Trooper. I will post very soon.:box: :box: :box:

[datrupr]

Ok, as I have three seperate small mods I was pondering on wheather I should post them separately, or all together..............????????

I'll put them all together on one post and let you all sort them out.

Most of you know that I ordered a Lev-O-Guage from Xtreme Off Road (http://xtremeoff-road.com/) and was having some trouble getting it to me. Well, as I posted on another thread it did get to me, and I have just now come up with a perfect place to mount it. Since I really don't care about time and find it a useless tool (J/K) I decided to mount the clinometer over the stock clock location high up on the dash for greater visibility and added cool factor. Not necessarily a "needed" piece of equipment it is pretty cool to look at and can't wait to try it out on the trail. It is kinda fun watching it go to 30+* making turns. Maybe I should slow down a bit around corners?


Well, since I covered the clock I needed a new one......... Solution? How about a new stereo to replace the factory unit? Wait, flashback here


A few months ago the factory in dash 6 disc CD changer crapped out and would not play any cd's. It would not eject any cd's either, so now I have to rely on the radio and cassette deck for in car entertainment. I don't own 1 cassette tape. I have also sacrificed 6 of my favorite cd's to the demon cd changer:mad:


Back to the present. My wife felt that all of the mods on my X-mas list were not nearly as important as having some good quality tunes in the rig, so she being the sweet heart that she is got me a new JVC G-310 AM/FM/CD/WMA/MP3/Sirius Satellite radio. The only problem that I have found with this unit so far are the still factory speakers. The new unit is much more powerful than the factory junk and I can hear the difference and forsee the speakers being blown in a matter of a month or so. It all sounds good too. The Sirius is not hooked up as of yet, but wait about a month or so and it will be done and I will report on it then. Also, the new stereo has a clock so I can still make it to the trail run meet and greets on time.;)


Well, with the new stereo installed and non functioning and now not hooked up Cd changer sitting in my dash I had to do something else. I had to rescue my hostage cd's. The changer was removed, and the cd extraction was performed and successful. Sad to say that the cd changer did not fair to well during the extraction process and has gone on to the great dashboard in the sky.

This left me with another dilema. I now have a huge hole in my dash where the CD changer once was, and a wad of cash I recieved from Christmas. What to do?
After a lot of pondering, wondering, and searching I decided what to put in the empty hole in my dash...............
A Cobra 18 WX ST II CB radio. I chose this model primarily because of price and the fact that it fits in the opening for the CD changer perfectly. I did not have to make any mods to the dash to get it to fit just right. I did have to make some minor modifications to the factory mount for the CD changer to get the CB to fit right, but that was the hardest part of the install. Otherwise I hard wired it to the fuse block and Bob's your Uncle I now have CB! I can't wait to give it a good test out on the trail on Saturday.

I do have a few pics attached for you all to ponder and gaze at. Please refrain from comments regarding the filthy condition of my truck, and that you can see me taking the picture on the face of the stereo. Also, sorry for the slightly blurry photos, the batteries in my camera were pretty much dead. When that happens the pics tend to come out a bit blurry.

[Brian McVickers]

Very slilck!
I like how the CB fit right in.

[datrupr]

Yeah, it made for a pretty easy install.

[datrupr]

Ok, stay tuned, I have a couple more small mods that should be posted up in the next week:) :box:

[BlueTrooper]

Looks good, Aaron! I am in the process of choosing a CB (portable unit is just too cumbersome), and will have to check out that Cobra. The front-mounted speaker is important for that location. In my Trooper, the spot is just an open cubbyhole for storage, and is my preferred location for a CB.

Regarding the blurry pics...are you sure it's not because of the distance? Many cameras have a macro setting for extreme closeups.

Also, to avoid CD damage, theft, etc, I now almost never play original CD's in my vehicles. It's a little more work, but burning backup copies to use on the road gives me peace of mind. As my rear-mounted changer in the Trooper has a lot of problems going over bumps even on the road (I just shut it off completely whenever I'm off-road!), I'll consider going to MP3 player when I go to upgrade the sound system.

[datrupr]

Ok, I had a couple of minutes to take away from the boss's house mods to get a couple more small things done onthe Trooper. Good thing these were simple and quick, because the missus never noticed until last night when she saw the fire extinguisher sitting in the back of the truck. I used a Super Quick Fist to mount the fire extinguisher in the cargo area of the Trooper. I chose this location because I actually plan to upgrade to a 5lb unit for the Trooper and put this smaller unit in the Suzuki and I still need to have my passenger areas pretty much unobstucted. I mounted it a bit high and did not trim the straps fully so as to use this same mount for the larger unit. I also needed a way to secure my D cell MagLight and the QuickFist mounts were my first option based on Scott's review of them. I borrowed the mounting location from Brian McVick as I really like where he mounted his. It actually turns somewhat un-useable space into some very useable space, and the QuickFists work perfectly! When my wife saw the MagLight mount and the fire extinguisher mount she said that she wanted some too, so I may be contacting Wil to see if he has any more. And, many thanks to Wil for ordering to many mounts and offering them up to us here to buy. Here are the pics.

[articulate]

Ok, I had a couple of minutes...
I'll tell you what, those quick fists are about the damned cleverest thing out there. You'd be really hardcore to mount your rakes, shovels and yard equipment to the wall of your garage with those things. :)

Cheers,
Mark

[datrupr]

Mark, for the price of the QuickFists compared to the cheesy racks and hooks they make for hanging yard & gardening equipment I am seriously considering it. However, the gardening equipment seen in the photos in my garage are not mounted using Quickfists.

[datrupr]

OK, I know that I am going to be getting a very large tax return this year, as I usually do, and I have been guaranteed a portion of it from the CFO. I was planning on doing the best mod I could think of with it........ A lift. But, as luck would have it, the CFO put stipulations on the funds released for modifications. I can get anything I want on my truck with the $$ she is going to allow, so long as it increases the gear capacity of the Trooper. With 5 people in the family and a dog, all of our gear, people, and pooch do not fit inside the truck. So, basically what I am trying to say is, she is making me get a rack. Now, since I have no factory roof rack to go off of already I think this could be considered a good thing, and a bad thing. I need something to mount the rack to, maybe some Yakima or Thule bars, and then I also would like to know if anyone here knows of a good place to get a quality, reasonably priced 3/4 or 1/2 rack for my Trooper. I have a few places in mind already, but I am looking for a few more ideas, and hopefully some places that I did not think of. If anyone knows of anywhere, please feel free to post up, don't worry if you are posting a place that I have already researched.

And, just so everyone here knows, my plan for decreased gas mileage and "hauling" capacity was an OME 1.5" lift. That got nixed, so that will still be on the list for a bit longer. Thanks in advance for any suggestions anyone might throw out there

[flyingwil]

...so I may be contacting Wil to see if he has any more. And, many thanks to Wil for ordering to many mounts and offering them up to us here to buy. Here are the pics.

Pic's Look Great! I still have some more if you are interested!

[datrupr]

Thanks Wil, do you have any Supers left?

[flyingwil]

Thanks Wil, do you have any Supers left?

Yeah that's all I got left! I think I have 6 more!

Oh and what did you choose for your CB mount, MAG/Hard? I might have missed it!

[datrupr]

I went with a mag mount for the CB. Since my budget was a bit limited I went with the cheapo from Radio Shack, I will eventually upgrade to a Firestick mag mount with a quick disconnect, but down the road a bit.

[datrupr]

Has anyone dealt with Rocky Road? I have been researching racks and they seem to have fairly decent prices for a 1/2 rack for my Trooper. What are anyones experiences with Rocky Road and Wilderness racks? Is there any place else that someone would recommend? Any different brands of racks? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again in advance.

[Brian McVickers]

Aaron,
I've been thinking of designing and welding up my own custom roof rack in preparation for a possible roof top tent someday.

If you want to buy the materials we can experiment with your vehicle!:ar15:

Then when we've got it all figured out I'll make one for mine.

[datrupr]

Brian, I might just take you up on that. Let me look into it and I will get back to you. We can also use my garage for the fabricating, and i like to keep lots of cold beer on hand. Whatever the fabricator likes is good with me. I will let you know.

[jeffryscott]

Has anyone dealt with Rocky Road? I have been researching racks and they seem to have fairly decent prices for a 1/2 rack for my Trooper. What are anyones experiences with Rocky Road and Wilderness racks? Is there any place else that someone would recommend? Any different brands of racks? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again in advance.

I got all the stuff for my Zuk from them and they did right by me.

Jeff

(they have good prices on all the Old Man Emu stuff you might want for your Trooper and GV)

[flyingwil]

(they have good prices on all the Old Man Emu stuff you might want for your Trooper and GV)

Good luck getting both by running that by the CFO! :hehe:

[Scott Brady]

My first investment would be OME firm shocks and heavy rear springs. It will transform the vehicle on the road and trail. And all for about $400 :)

[datrupr]

Yeah, I hear ya there Scott, but the CFO is releasing funds only for a rack at this time. I was really bummed too, because the full OME expedition heavy suspension is only $465 or so from Rocky Road. But, she thinks a rack is more important and she will not listen to my reasoning.:mad: I am actually considering just ignoring her and going with the suspension, but that might get me fired, and I don't want that right now.

[articulate]

Aaron - might be high time for a negotiation:

Save $$ by building the rack with mcvick
Use the remainder for the springs and shocks


You satisfy the wife's requirement, and you can do the suspension all within the allowed budget.

And there might be a little bit left....you can take us out for a frosty mug in celebration of your accomplishment.

Think about it. :ylsmoke:

Mark

[datrupr]

Mark, I like the way you think. I might have to throw that into the negotiations. We will see, and I will keep you all posted.

[jeffryscott]

Explain to her that a roofrack on the stock suspension would make the vehicle "unsafe" because if you load the roofrack up with too much stuff, the truck would be pretty wobbly on the inferior stock stuff ... Old Man Emu is that much better.

Good luck,

Jeff

[kevin]

This roof rack thread has my interest. I looked for aftermarket racks that would meet my needs, and did not find much. I too am considering building my own. Keep us posted on your progress.

[datrupr]

OK, to get off of the rack topic for a moment, I just got the Sirius adapter box for my new JVC stereo and got it all installed yesterday. I would post pics, but there isn't really much to it. The only part that is really photograph-able (is that a word??) is the antenna, and that is not really all that exciting. The Sirius receiver is just a small box that plugs into the back of my Sirius ready head unit. I installed the receiver under the passenger seat, ran the antenna and plugged it into the head unit, and WOW!, I have Sirius!!!!!:victory: The install was pretty simple and only took about and hour, the hardest part was actually running the antenna, since I do plan on getting a rack I did not want to run it to the back roof of the truck, so I ran it up inside the windshield molding and up the front center of the roof of my truck. This is pretty cool, because now I have radio pretty much anywhere I am. I think I am going to have to give it a thorough work out on the way to the trail tomorrow. But, if anyone does want a few pics just let me know and I will snap a few and post them up. I do recommend for those considering a stereo upgrade to get a head unit that is already XM or Sirius ready, the install is really easy that way. On the GV I had to buy another Sirius unit (much less expensive), but the install was much more difficult. I am so psyched up about the satellite radio, how cool is it?

[datrupr]

OK, I now have to report on the Sirius Satellite radio. I have to say that it is really cool. The sound is almost CD quality, it works just about everywhere, and the range of channels is enormous! I can listen to just about anything I want any time I want, and anywhere I want. All I can say, if you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up. The Sirius subscription is $12.95 a month and $7.00 a month for any additional units added to your account. We paid our subscription for a full year, and now we are set up until next year. Well worth it in my book. Since having Sirius I have not listened to any of the local radio stations or any of my Cd's. I can't wait to get down to Mexico and see how it does down there. This system totally ROCKS!!!:victory:

[bigreen505]

Yeah, I hear ya there Scott, but the CFO is releasing funds only for a rack at this time. I was really bummed too, because the full OME expedition heavy suspension is only $465 or so from Rocky Road. But, she thinks a rack is more important and she will not listen to my reasoning.:mad: I am actually considering just ignoring her and going with the suspension, but that might get me fired, and I don't want that right now.

Tell the CFO that an upside-down Trooper is not a good value and certainly doesn't need a rack. :(

[Scott Brady]

Good report on the Sirius radio. Tunes are a critical component of expedition travel :ylsmoke:

[Zaphod]

I can tell you from experience that Sirius works as far south as Monterrey, Mexico, and even about two hours south of that.

I made the decision to mount my antenna at the centerline of the truck just forward of the rear spoiler. Seeing as I don't currently have a roof rack, and seeing that even if I do get one I will still have my direct iPod interface (I have an Alpine), it seemed like a good idea. I am also uncompromisingly anal when it comes to wires and installations. I want it to look stock, or I don't accept it. Period.

Datrupr, I have to thank you for something. I am going to modify my truck with the 4WD true tweak. I had been hoping to find a 4WD switch that DIDN'T say "4WD Auto" like mine does, and lo and behold, THERE IT IS IN YOURS!

So, off I go to get a 4WD switch for a 98 Trooper! :jump:

Oh, and thanks for the pic of the CB. I have been looking for a model to do precisely what you did. All I will be adding will be a frame around the unit to filll in the gap between it and the dash. Like I said: uncompromisingly anal. :victory:

[datrupr]

Zaphod, I am the same way as you are in terms of I like things to look stock, so I try to go for the cleanest install possible. As for the switch, it doesn't have to be from a 98, just from any Trooper not equipped with TOD. Mine did not come with TOD so I did not have to worry about the mod, but I understand it is fairly simple. I think the 4WD switch is going to be the same as the late model Rodeos as well. Good luck with the conversion and keep us posted on its progress, and we would like to have a full report as to its performance once completed. Thanks for the helpful tip on Sirius, it is good to hear about its range from another user with experience. Also, thanks for the compliments on my CB set up. If you have the factory in dash CD changer you should not need to fab up a bracket, just modify the mounting brackets from the CD changer to line the CB up where you want it.

[Brian McVickers]

Aaron
Did your brother ever sell his Disco?

[datrupr]

Brian, I don't think it is sold as of yet. I also don't think he is trying really hard to get rid of it either, he doesn't really want to get rid of it, but he kinda has to, so I don't think he is really pushing it that hard. I will check to see if it is sold though. Why, you wanna buy it?:D

[Brian McVickers]

It most likely has not sold yet because of the roof rack he has on it. They are not very appealing and dissuade many perspective buyers from moving forward with the purchase even when they are very interested in the vehicle itself. He should sell the roof rack separately or better yet he should just give it away and not deal with trying to find a buyer for it too! :p

[datrupr]

I will see if I can't persuade him further on the roof rack.

[Zaphod]

I ended up ordering this baby:

http://www.midlandradio.com/comersus/store/catalog/79-290.jpg

Firestik antenna to follow. :D

[Zaphod]

Good luck with the conversion and keep us posted on its progress, and we would like to have a full report as to its performance once completed.

I don't know if I'll be able to tell, really. I'm so new to this that I'm pursuing making all these mods as a hobby first, then for practical use later. I'm also hoping to learn more about how my rig works so as to be more independent with it.

That even make sense? :confused:


If you have the factory in dash CD changer you should not need to fab up a bracket, just modify the mounting brackets from the CD changer to line the CB up where you want it.

I'm talking about a decorative frame that will wrap around the radio and finish the edge between it and the dash. I used the one from my old Alpine on my new one, and it looks as if it came from the factory that way.


BTW, concerning the dashboard switches: I have plans to get three fog light switches and the 4WD switch. Do the switches come with the plug in back, or do those come seperate?

I worry because it will be infinitely easier to wire the switches in if I can plug them in and then wire the harness rather than hard-wiring the switch.

Any ideas? :confused:

[datrupr]

I am not sure about the switches. As I have no fog or aux. lighting at the moment I have not purchased any of the switches. I am going to go with factory switches when the time comes, but I would bet on the fact that they already come eqauipped with the plug. I know my truck is already wired from the factory for fog lights, so when I add more lighting all I have to do is find the wires, plug them into the switch, and then run them to the lights. That is of course if the stock wiring is enough for the lights:D

[datrupr]

OK, I posted a quick quip about this on the adventures thread, but while at the Sportsman's Expo on Saturday I just could not pass up the offer going on at the 4Wheel Parts booth. $45 for the 48" and $10 for the isolator, no tax! Better than buying it on line.:victory:

[datrupr]

I can also now quit mooching air off of everybody, as this little baby showed up on my doorstep today:victory:


MF-1050. Have not yet had a chance to throughly test it, nut I will give a complete review when I have a chance. It is pretty much the big brother to the very cheap MV-50 that were going at Checker a few months back. $59.99 at Pep Boys.

[Zaphod]

Is that a heavier-duty version of the kind you plug into your cigarette lighter?

I just bought one of those for about $13.00. Just wondering if I should head on down to Pep Boys. :D

[datrupr]

The ones you plug into your cig lighter will not be able to handle the volume of airing up your tires on a regular basis, they are designed to help a stranded motorist in a car in a pinch. If you are airing up from 15psi to 35psi on all four tires it will more than likely overheat and quit working before you get all of your tires aired up, then have to wait about 30 min. for it to cool off before you can fill the rest of your tires. I would recommend a trip to Pep Boys, they are running a nationwide $10 mail in rebate for this unit right now making it $49.99. Quite a good deal.

[Scott Brady]

Nice grab on the hi-lift.

How is the roof rack search going?

[BlueTrooper]

The ones you plug into your cig lighter will not be able to handle the volume of airing up your tires on a regular basis, they are designed to help a stranded motorist in a car in a pinch. If you are airing up from 15psi to 35psi on all four tires it will more than likely overheat and quit working before you get all of your tires aired up, then have to wait about 30 min. for it to cool off before you can fill the rest of your tires. I would recommend a trip to Pep Boys, they are running a nationwide $10 mail in rebate for this unit right now making it $49.99. Quite a good deal.

I agree...though the jury is still out on how long these models last, mine has worked very well and there is no better buy for the speed/volume that this thing produces. It will fill your tires in a fraction of the time of a cheap Target compressor (I struggled with one of those for some time...you could read a chapter of a book while airing up).

The only disadvantages I've seen (we had a lot of discussion about this and other models at the 4wdtrips.net forum (http://www.4wdtrips.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3131)) are the rather cheesy plastic screw-on filter, the time it takes to stuff it back in the protective bag, and having to raise the hood to get at the power.

I've considered some kind of modification that would provide a metal-threaded filter that does not need to be removed, but for now I'm just careful screwing it in, so as not to damage the plastic threads. I'm also thinking about creating a high-current power point somewhere in the Trooper so that I can hook directly to a central point, rather than going to the battery.

One other issue I've not yet discussed with anyone is that mine seems to have a relief valve that bleeds air if there is lateral pressure at the chuck. That is...if you don't hold the hose straight at the tire, the spring tension built into the hose (especially at the rear tires) will cause a seemingly deliberate leakage of air from the black plastic part near the end of the hose.

Aaron, have you experienced this? :confused:

[datrupr]

I have not yet Roy, but then again I only aired my tires up about 2lbs each yesterday afternoon, they were all about 2lbs low. I did not feel like letting air out to test it, I probably will this weekend and give a report on any issues I notice as well as time it takes to air up.

[datrupr]

Nice grab on the hi-lift.

How is the roof rack search going?


Thanks Scott, I think I am going to go with the SURCO rack. The half rack only weighs about 40+/- pounds I think, I have to double check my #'s, and it is in the price point I am looking for including goodies such as light mounts, hi-lift mount, and shovel/axe mount. Now, I just need to figure out how to mount it to the truck. I have a couple of options and ideas on that, plus I did see a cool Trooper the other day in a parking lot with very cool mounting rails, I did not get a chance to talk to the owner to find out the brand or where he got them though, so the search continues.

[flyingwil]

OK, I posted a quick quip about this on the adventures thread, but while at the Sportsman's Expo on Saturday I just could not pass up the offer going on at the 4Wheel Parts booth. $45 for the 48" and $10 for the isolator, no tax! Better than buying it on line.:victory:



Nice grab!

(Not trying to be rude) but one quick question... how are you going to use it? IIRC, you have the stock bumpers and no sliders... or am I missing something?


I can also now quit mooching air off of everybody, as this little baby showed up on my doorstep today


MF-1050. Have not yet had a chance to thoroughly test it, nut I will give a complete review when I have a chance. It is pretty much the big brother to the very cheap MV-50 that were going at Checker a few months back. $59.99 at Pep Boys.

Nice grab on the compressor too! Still running those tires I gave 'ya? Or did you upgrade?

[datrupr]

Wil, sliders and bull bar are in the works, but i am going to go and get a jack mate probably by next weekend, which should help with recovery efforts, if not tire changing, but my bottle jack still works fine for that.

I am still running the tries you gave me, and they are working out well thus far. I think there is about two months worth of life out of them. Then I think I am going to upgrade to the Cooper Stt's that Chris is running. He has a lot of good things to say about them, and I like the looks of them as well

[datrupr]

I will post pics on this later, but while in Flagstaff this weekend I did the not so popular 3WD mod.

We went up playing in the snow this weekend, I found a fun little trail, found some cool hills to do some sledding and snowman building, explored the trail a little further and then went back to the hotel to call it a night. The next morning I was pulling out of my parking spot at the hotel to go and play some more in the snow and head on home. As I was backing out of the parking spot I heard a "POP" and my left front started making a "clanking" sound. Now, being with Chris when he broke a CV I was very familiar with this sound, and not happy to hear it. My left outer CV joint practically exploded, there were ball bearings stuck in my lower A arm. Well, after some very diligent Sunday morning searching in Flagstaff, I could not find a shop anywhere (that was open anyway) that had my CV Axle. I had to call Phoenix for reinforcements and a car trailer to get us back home. I am currently still in search of a left axle for my truck here in the valley, it seems that everyone needs to order it in. I will keep you all posted, and I am hoping to have it fixed by this evening. I think I am going to replace my right axle as well, as the outer boot is badly torn and it could stand going to the axle shop to be re-manned and used as a spare for any possible future CV issues down the road. But, I think they did well and at almost 112K they have held up pretty well and done their jobs flawlessly. So I guess I can not really complain.

[BlueTrooper]

My left outer CV joint practically exploded

Ugh! Sorry to hear that.

I wonder if the cold affected the lube and/or boot...

[Zaphod]

Holy smokes! :Wow1:


What is this "3WD mod" you mentioned? Is it the AWD-4WD mod? Was it the cause of the CV going bad? :confused:

What's the best way to inspect your CV joints? Other than taking them apart, I mean...

[Scenic WonderRunner]

We Need Pics of the SNOW!!!!!!!!!!!

....heck....you can brake a CV anytime!

But snow is a rare feat in AZ. now days!
.
.
.
....just givin' you a hard time Aaron. Sorry to hear that.....what a pain!

[datrupr]

The 3WD mod is not really a mod, but because of the broken CV joint if I were to engage 4WD only three of my wheels would be active. But I have not tried this.

I think age was the mitigating factor in the CV axles ultimate demise.

Mark, I do not have many pics of the snow, but I will post a few up in a couple of days.

I will also post up the process of changing the axle on here, providing all goes well.

[Zaphod]

Ah! "3WD" mod. Got it! :ylsmoke:

[datrupr]

OK, I am now finding out the hard way that changing the front axles on a late model Trooper are a first rate BEEHOITCH!!!!! So much for the theory of once you get the upper ball joint free, drop the brake assembly, and remove the outer axle shaft the whole thing will just slide out. I was getting frustrated, and tried to Google (http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic172714.htm) the process, and come to find out, that there is a C-Clip on the back side of a steel plate that is next to impossible to get to that is holding the stupid thing on. Now, I would like to do this change myself and then post up pics and help to educate everyone here, but the other side of me says take it to a shop and just pay $150 in labor to have them mess with the headache. I dunno, what do you all think? I need my truck back in proper working order.

Should I go for it? Or should I go to the shop?

[Scott Brady]

You have come a long way Aaron. I would recommend going for it. You will learn a lot in the process, and likely get a better result too.:sunflower

[HongerVenture]

I say go for it... and after this whole ordeal, pick yourself up a Factory Service Manual. You will not regret the literal hands-on education you'll get from DIY maintenance.

I tore a boot on one of my axles awhile back and pulled both axles and rebuilt them... pain in the butt the first time! Next time will be a breeze. The "all-day-Saturday" job that it was the first time is what pushed me over the brink for a Factory Service Manual.

Only downside to getting the FSM... you read through it and get the invincible "I can do it!" feeling about repairs that you probably ought to have someone else do. ;)

[njtaco]

Should I go for it? Or should I go to the shop?

I would say go for it. You have so much support on this forum, in your neck of the woods, you would have a hard time getting in too deep.

I always do everything I can in the way of repairs myself. I've learned a LOT about Chevys, Fords, etc. that way. :smilies27 Of course, I haven't had to repair my Toyotas yet, just maintenance. Even at that, combined with this forum and others, I've learned a lot more than I ever could if I went to a shop instead of doing for myself.

Best of luck with it.

Bob

[datrupr]

OW!OW!OW!......Alright, stop twisting my arm so hard everyone, I'll do it! I'll do it! I'll post up the how too after I get it all finished.

[BlueTrooper]

Just to provide a little perspective (and one dissenting POV), I'd say there's no harm in taking an aspirin if you've got a headache.

For me, the joy is in the driving, and the maintenance is a means to that end. While I probably need to learn to do more work on my vehicle, I'm not going to let a stubborn need to do everything myself keep me off the road.

Shops have the tools and the environment to get the job DONE. It can be a real joy to see your vehicle up on a lift after you've been scraping your nose on greasy undercarriage parts while rolling around on a creeper.

Plus, if you've got a friendly arrangement with a shop, they might let you see what/how they're doing things.

That said...if you really WANT to do a repair/mod yourself, do so....but do what YOU want to!
:luxhello:

[datrupr]

Roy, I love your point of view. And, while I am at my wits end with this thing, I am really enjoying learning how to work on my own vehicle, I have never done it before, and while the learning process is a bit strenuous, I feel that it could come in handy in the future in terms of malfunctions and failures on the trail. I think it would be beneficial to me to know how to repair/band-aid certain components on my truck so I do not have to make the long walk. Especially with my family in the car. I just ordered the shop manual for my Trooper, and hopefully it will aid in future repairs, but I do not think it will be here in time for my scheduled Saturday appointment with my garage and Trooper. I have a good idea of what now needs to be done to remove the axle, and I think without the pressure of "needing" to get it back together "today" I think I can step back and look at what needs to be done with a slightly different perspective. My thought process is that if I can build a house from the ground up, then why is it that I can not fix my own vehicle? And it gives me a good excuse to not do home projects this weekend:rolleyes: I am getting tired of home projects. I want to do truck projects.:D

[datrupr]

OK, since my shop manual probably wont be here for a couple more days, I had a friend who has access to ALLDATA send me a diagram of the front axle assembly for the Trooper. I know now what the problem is and how to get to the c-clips that are holding the axle on there. I think it is going to be a project, but it will be good to know how to get it done in case the need arises. And I am sure it will as the right axle will probably give up on me soon too:smilies27

[HongerVenture]

OK, since my shop manual probably wont be here for a couple more days, I had a friend who has access to ALLDATA send me a diagram of the front axle assembly for the Trooper. I know now what the problem is and how to get to the c-clips that are holding the axle on there. I think it is going to be a project, but it will be good to know how to get it done in case the need arises. And I am sure it will as the right axle will probably give up on me soon too:smilies27

The satisfaction at the end of the job will more than make up for all the trouble. That shop manual will pay for itself in no time...

What you should do is get a quote from the service shop for doing the work... then, keep a tally of all that you spend on this project. Now, subtract the costs of the project from the cost of the shop doing it and see if you paid for the manuals. =)

I've tried this little trick with my wife...
I've tallied up the savings of doing my own labor and sourcing discount parts. Next, I tell her how much I saved and ask her if I can have that savings in cash to buy stuff for the truck... it never works. Worth a try though. :D

[datrupr]

The satisfaction at the end of the job will more than make up for all the trouble. That shop manual will pay for itself in no time...

That is kinda what I was thinking.


What you should do is get a quote from the service shop for doing the work... then, keep a tally of all that you spend on this project. Now, subtract the costs of the project from the cost of the shop doing it and see if you paid for the manuals. =)...

That is an excellent idea, I think I will do that. So far I have spent about $40 on tools and other necessary equipment, $24.00 on the shop manual and $75 for the axle. I think this will surely reflect a substantial savings.


I've tried this little trick with my wife...
I've tallied up the savings of doing my own labor and sourcing discount parts. Next, I tell her how much I saved and ask her if I can have that savings in cash to buy stuff for the truck... it never works. Worth a try though. :D

As much as I like that idea, I know it will not go over well. Her argument will be that because of the mods, and the off road driving the axle broke, so why should I put more $$ into it so it will break even more often. Silly logic, I know, but that is the way she thinks sometimes.

[Zaphod]

Where on earth did you find the shop manual for only $24?

I, like an idiot, actually paid Helm $100 a year ago for their stupid CD-ROM. Last week I got sent to a link with a perfect PDF conversion of the manual, which I am now printing, little by little, at work, double-sided. I'm still kicking myself about that damned disc!

[datrupr]

On this thread (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176&highlight=shop+manuals) there is a link to the shop manual source.

[Zaphod]

Is that any different than the Workshop manual I got?

The one I got is this one: http://foto.afn.kz/x/Trooper/00%20Year/

This one is for 2000.

If what you got goes beyond this, then I'll get it, but this one is pretty seriously detailed.

[datrupr]

I am not sure yet, as I have yet to recieve it, but I will let you know. I gotta tell ya though, I am in need of some serious help, I can not get this stupid half shaft off to save my life. I removed my 4WD modulator, could see a snap ring, could barely get to it, and when it was released the stupid half shaft would still not budge:mad: . I am at a loss, and am planning on taking it to a shop this week. If for nothig but to learn what needs to be done to release the stuipid axle. This has got to be the dumbest set up for a half shaft I have seen.:smilies27

[datrupr]

Zaphod, on the shop manuals site link I posted they do have a shop manual for the '01 Tropers.


OK, now, my frustration has reached a peak! I was calling around to get pricing for changing the axle and found out that it actuallyrequires the suspension (read A arms) to be removed, the differential and front axle shaft to be partially dropped, and the 4WD modulator and assembly to be removed form the axle. Only after that, can the CV axle be removed. It sounds to be to be a real PIA, and a bit on the pricy side. I am looking into finding a shop that will let me photograph the process so it can be seen. Since I am going to be taking it in to have the work done, I am also going to replace all of the front ball joints and also the right CV axle. I am picking up the right axle this afternoon.

[Zaphod]

Damn, dude! :smilies27



BTW, My troop is a 2000. :)

[flyingwil]

OK, now, my frustration has reached a peak! I was calling around to get pricing for changing the axle and found out that it actuallyrequires the suspension (read A arms) to be removed, the differential and front axle shaft to be partially dropped, and the 4WD modulator and assembly to be removed form the axle. Only after that, can the CV axle be removed. It sounds to be to be a real PIA, and a bit on the pricy side. I am looking into finding a shop that will let me photograph the process so it can be seen. Since I am going to be taking it in to have the work done, I am also going to replace all of the front ball joints and also the right CV axle. I am picking up the right axle this afternoon.


Good Idea to do both at once...

You might need to find a mom and pop shop to allow you to take pictures due to insurance obligations.

[datrupr]

I have a shop that I have been using for years, and I am pretty sure he let me document the whole process. If not, then I will come up with another option.

Yeah, the right outer CV boot is torn pretty badly as well, and with over 110K it is about time to replace, that and I do not want to have to hassle with the right one failing on me while I am out on the trail. The Trooper is going in the end of this week and I will probably givce it a quick test run on Sunday. I will fill you all in.

[datrupr]

Well, got the Trooper back on friday, and with 2 new CV axles it is back up and running. 4Wd is working as well. I can't wait to hit the trails this weekend. I hope these stupid axles last, at over $600 for installation they better last a while. Next time though, I hope to be better equipped in my own garage to be able to do it myself. However, I did learn that this would make for a very difficult trail repair, and would take a lot of time. I am sorry as I did not get any pics of the process, but will post up in a few days a detailed process on how to perform this procedure.

[Scott Brady]

THanks for the update Aaron, I look forward to seeing the step-by-step.

[datrupr]

I have the front CV axle step by step coming down really soon, but in the meantime, I just got some new goodies for the Trooper. I should have them in my garage by this weekend.:box:

[BlueTrooper]

You know, Aaron...since you're always about three steps ahead of me, maybe I should just have you buy two of everything you get...;)

[datrupr]

You know, Aaron...since you're always about three steps ahead of me, maybe I should just have you buy two of everything you get...;)
:xxrotflma

Roy, I can't afford the stuff I am buying now. Maybe that is why I am not buying it:rolleyes:

No, I think this is a good thing though, as I am currently saving my pennies for a new set tires.

[BajaTaco]

I was calling around to get pricing for changing the axle and found out that it actuallyrequires the suspension (read A arms) to be removed, the differential and front axle shaft to be partially dropped, and the 4WD modulator and assembly to be removed form the axle. Only after that, can the CV axle be removed.

Whoa, not sure how I missed this. I would have loved to discuss this with you and look under the Trooper at the Secret Pass trip had I known about it. :smilies27 Dang - I am really curious about how this design works. I'll look forward to your write-up.

[datrupr]

OK gang, look what showed up at my house last night. Complete with plenty of lighting:












http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/Datrupr/IMG_2049.jpg

The lights are Hellas, but not sure what kind as of yet.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/Datrupr/IMG_2048.jpg

Not sure who makes it, but it looks liek it will do the job. It is made of aluminum and weighs about 65 lbs with the lights and flooring, so not too bad. I do have to figure out a way to mount it though. But hey, I can't complain about the price..... It was FREE!!!!!!! I also have to get the wiring harness and an OEM switch to wire up the lights, and then I am good to go. It also came with a 2' Fire stick quick disconnect antenna that I am thinking about wiring up too, but i am not sure if I want my CB antenna mounted on the rack. I am running through the options on that one. Now, I need to see if Thule or Yakima make mounting bars that will allow that particular rack to mount securely. Or will I have to come up with another option. I will keep you all posted and show some pics once I get it mounted. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

[jeffryscott]

OK gang, look what showed up at my house last night. Complete with plenty of lighting:












http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/Datrupr/IMG_2049.jpg

The lights are Hellas, but not sure what kind as of yet.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/Datrupr/IMG_2048.jpg

Not sure who makes it, but it looks liek it will do the job. It is made of aluminum and weighs about 65 lbs with the lights and flooring, so not too bad. I do have to figure out a way to mount it though. But hey, I can't complain about the price..... It was FREE!!!!!!! I also have to get the wiring harness and an OEM switch to wire up the lights, and then I am good to go. It also came with a 2' Fire stick quick disconnect antenna that I am thinking about wiring up too, but i am not sure if I want my CB antenna mounted on the rack. I am running through the options on that one. Now, I need to see if Thule or Yakima make mounting bars that will allow that particular rack to mount securely. Or will I have to come up with another option. I will keep you all posted and show some pics once I get it mounted. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Cool, remember, the Trooper has several holes up top for the not offered in North America roof rack. It used 6mm screws and Overland Trooper Mount Brackets, TR100s (found this information five years ago on ITOG (Isuzu Troopers Owner Group, don't know if it still exists) but a google search should help with the info.

I'll look and see if I can find any other info, but that should get you started.

Good luck,

Jeff

[HongerVenture]

Excellent! That looks very nice. I'm sure you can get it mounted quite reasonably. I'm fairly certain those are Hella 500's on the rack.

Free is the best priced mod!

[CLynn85]

Yep, can't beat the price. Looks like a pretty solid rack, what did it come off of?

[datrupr]

It is very solid, it came off of a LR Disco II. The owner traded in the Disco and did not want to trade the rack with it, so he gave it to me. I gladly accepted his generous offer:victory: The mounts for the LR will not work for my truck, so I will be donating these on this site fairly soon. I will keep you posted.

Jeff, thanks again for the very helpful info, I thought there was some way under the weather stripping on the roof to mount the racks, I have seen a couple of other Troopers with racks mounted in that area. I will have to look it up. ITOG is a very good soure of information as well as PlanetIsuzoo. I will get it figured out very soon and have it all mounted up.

Joel, I think you are right that they are Hella 500's, but I still have to confirm this.

[BajaTaco]

Very cool! :jumping:

You could always use Scott's method (http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/trooper/rack/rack.html). Although this would position the rack up close to the front of the roof, which may result in too much glare from the lights.

[datrupr]

Thanks Chris, but Scott's method will not work for me, the lights will probably blind me, and also, if I have it mounted towards the front it will cover my Sirius antenna and then that would not be good. In doing a bit of research today I did find the the Troopers have 3 mounting areas on each side (6 pre tapped holes per side) under the stripping on the rain gutter. Now, I have to find something that will work with the existing holes and the mounting bars for the rack. I should hopefully have something by this weekend.

[cshontz]

Although this would position the rack up close to the front of the roof, which may result in too much glare from the lights.

Yeah, be careful with that, Aaron. Two Cherokees ago, I had a roof rack similar to yours with four Hella 550s (like your 500s) mounted too far forward. This position created so much windshield glare, they were rendered useless. I wish someone had warned me.

[HongerVenture]

Yeah, be careful with that, Aaron. Two Cherokees ago, I had a roof rack similar to yours with four Hella 550s (like your 500s) mounted too far forward. This position created so much windshield glare, they were rendered useless. I wish someone had warned me.

That is definitely an advantage to mounting lights on a roofrack that is set back on a pick-up camper shell. Baja has his set back like that. The Blue T100 I had, when I was driving back from Washington state with it, had KC Daylighters mounted on the roof rack over the camper shell. It was perfect... the line of lighting just barely missed the hood therefore there was no glare.

In any case, hurry up Aaron! I'm dying to see that thing mounted up on your Trooper. Of course, my anticipation probably only fuels your much greater anticipation. :xxrotflma

[datrupr]

Thanks Joel, and Chris. The rack is basically a half rack design, and will be mounted towards the rear of the truck, so the lighting should not be much of an issue. Looking into mounting options thus far and I think I may have a solution. I'll keep you all posted.

[BajaTaco]

... I think I may have a solution. I'll keep you all posted.

:lurk:

[datrupr]

I might need some help from somebody that has the proper tools to bend metal and possibly do some grinding and drilling. Any takers??

[jeffryscott]

Aaron, I have some of the mounts you need, let me check my vehicle first though to make sure I can't use them. If not, we can figure out a deal if you are interested. I also have the instructions of how to do it in the box.

I can at the very least take a pic of the instructions or scan them in and send it to you as a pdf.

Talk to you soon,

Jeff

[Brian McVickers]

The mounts for the LR will not work for my truck, so I will be donating these on this site fairly soon. .


Ooooh Oooooh, Over Here, Ooooh Ooooh!:jumping:

[datrupr]

Brian, got em if I decide not to hack them up and rework them for my truck.

Jeff, sounds good, let me know. I could trade you a really nice Cobra hand held CB for em:hehe: Just kidding, I do need to get that radio back to you though. Let me know if they will not work for you, and then we can work out a deal somehow.

[Brian McVickers]

SWEET Aaron!!

If you need help fabbing something up we could always put my new welding skills to the test!!

[datrupr]

Very cool Brian, but I don't think I need to weld anything just yet, I just need to cut, grind, bend, and drill and I think it should work. It is also aluminum, how are your aluminum welding skills? I will keep you posted though.

[flyingwil]

Aaron-

Are you still running the MT's I gave you? I am surprised they still have tread on them!?

[datrupr]

Yup, still running them Wil, but they are going to need replacement pretty soon. I think they will become my next mod before the suspension, and then the suspension.

[flyingwil]

By the way the rack looks great! I just got home (the pic's were blocked at work).

Nice score for free! The lights alone are worth some change.

[datrupr]

OK, just thinking out loud here, but since I have the rack project in progress, and my mind is going crazy with thoughts and ideas, I want to figure out a way to ,ount my WEDCO fuel can to the back of my truck, as I do not want that much weight on the rack. Here is what I was thinking, and see what everyone else has to say.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/muzza22au/Mods/Jerry%20Can%20Holder/DSC_4176.jpg

[datrupr]

I was thinking of moving the license plate bracket and light to the can holder, and using the existing mounting holes to mount the can. I would probably have to reinforce the mounts from the inside of the door, but I might still have to drill some holes in the bottom of the door to mount the bottom of the rack. I am a little apprehensive to drill through my sheet metal, but with just two bolts holding the can in at the top, it might not be sturdy enough and als rattle around. help me out eith some ideas here guys.

[Brian McVickers]

I think that looks pretty close to ideal Aaron.
You may consider mounting the holder with a backing plate or very large washers on the back side of the sheetmetal.

Also if you have more than one can holder you may consider mounting htem on their long side so you can have two cans side by side. If you have ever seen a copy of the 4 Wheelers Bible the FJ40 on the cover has two cans mounted in this manner. It looks like you have ths space to fit them.

[Brian McVickers]

http://www.4x4books.com/images/4wba.jpghttp://www.4x4books.com/images/4wba.jpg

Granted this example uses different style holders but you should be able to do the same with yours

[datrupr]

I thought about that Brian, but I don't think the small 1/3 door will be able to handle the weight of 2 full cans. I also do not want them to stick out too far, by mounting just the one, it will still be shorter than the spare tire. I am planning on mounting the water cans to the roof rack. I may need some welding assistance if I go through with this though, so get ready to get a call from me looking to come over and get some welding done.:D

[Brian McVickers]

Hey I would love to!!:ar15: :ar15: :ar15:

I have been looking for something to weld lately!

[datrupr]

I'll give you a call when I gbet back in town, and see if we can't get some form of a plan for this project together. Also, you need to get your roof rack mounts outta my garage.:shakin:

[Brian McVickers]

http://soggyoval.org/DesktopModules/SimpleGallery/ImageHandlerLarge.ashx?width=800&height=533&HomeDirectory=%2fPortals%2f4%2fGallery%2fAlbum%2f1 1&fileName=010.JPG&portalid=4http://soggyoval.org/DesktopModules/SimpleGallery/ImageHandlerLarge.ashx?width=800&height=533&HomeDirectory=%2fPortals%2f4%2fGallery%2fAlbum%2f1 1&fileName=010.JPG&portalid=4

Aaron,
Here is a pic of the can mounting method that I am considering

[datrupr]

That is pretty cool Brian, but I would be concerned with rearward visibility. But that is just me. Isn't your ladder longer? Could you mount it lower?

[asteffes]

OK gang, look what showed up at my house last night. Complete with plenty of lighting:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/Datrupr/IMG_2049.jpg

The lights are Hellas, but not sure what kind as of yet.


Those are Hella 500 driving beams, 55 watts each, H3 bulbs. You can get the snap-on clear covers from Expedition Exchange or Pangaea. Don't try to run higher wattage bulbs or the glass will crack and plastic may melt.

[datrupr]

Thanks for the info Adam. I might have to get sopme clear covers for them from Nathan. I also would not mind to have the white covers you can get for them as well.

[bigreen505]

Aaron, that basket should fit perfectly with your new rack, but I think not much else will, it's pretty narrow.

[bigreen505]

Aaron, what kind of gas mileage are you seeing on the Trooper with the 265s?

[datrupr]

Bill, I am getting around 16 give or take.

[Zaphod]

I was thinking of moving the license plate bracket and light to the can holder, and using the existing mounting holes to mount the can. I would probably have to reinforce the mounts from the inside of the door, but I might still have to drill some holes in the bottom of the door to mount the bottom of the rack. I am a little apprehensive to drill through my sheet metal, but with just two bolts holding the can in at the top, it might not be sturdy enough and als rattle around. help me out eith some ideas here guys.


You will definitely find this of interest: http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/trooper/Fuel%20Can/Fuelcan.html

[datrupr]

Well, I hate to say it, but went on a little solo adventure this weekend, and the Trooper suffered a very common failure and had to go under the knife when I got home on Monday. Unfortunately since I do not have a camera anymore I did not get any pics of the carnage, but the surgery was a success and I think the DATRUPR will pull through just fine..........


Yes, I was cruising down Bloody Basin Rd, running at a fairly decent speed when I kept hearing this occasional and somewhat irritating "whap, whap, whap" noise. At first I did not think much of it. When I got onto Cave Creek Rd. and started running a bit more speed the sound became more consistent and louder. I was trying to isolate the noise to figure out where it was coming from, as it sounded like it was coming from the left front tire. Is was getting pretty pissed as these tires are brand new and did not want any problems with them and have to go back to discount and have to deal with the warranty, take time out of my day etc. Well, I managed to get home safely and immediatly inspected the left front end of the truck to realize that it was not the tire at all that was causing the noise.....No, it turns out that it was a very common problem with late model Troopers that are often taken off road. Yup, the left front mud flap had torn, and was hanging on for dear life by about 1-1/4" of plastic. So, I pulled out my trusty tool kit, found a hex bit that fit into the rivet opening and popped the suckers off. So, not the Trooper is running front mud flap-less. I think it looks good, and the irritating noise is now gone.:victory:

I also tried to remove the bent and banged up step bars, but I could not get the friggin' bolts to budge, so That will wait for another day. Anyway, thanks for listening to my rant.

[articulate]

Well, I managed to get home safely and immediatly inspected the left front end of the truck to realize that it was not the tire at all that was causing the noise.....No, it turns out that it was a very common problem with late model Troopers that are often taken off road. Yup, the left front mud flap had torn . . .
Nice one. Now you can change out the mud flaps for big rubber ones with chrome naked ladies on 'em.

[datrupr]

Nice one. Now you can change out the mud flaps for big rubber ones with chrome naked ladies on 'em.

Hmmmm.... You almost read my mind, but I was thinking big chrome ones with gold naked ladies:p

[AZTrooper]

I just recently cut off my mud flaps with my dremel tool. I didn't like the idea of having to deal witht them on the trail. I think it looks way better without the mud flaps. Also this past weekend I bought a Cobra WXSTII. I love it. I took out the little black box under where the stereo mounts and then mounted the unit in there. It looks like it should have been there all along. Also that Cobra unit comes with two power leads. One is orange and one is red. I noticed the best overall power by twisting the two together and then connecting them directly to the battery.

Tonight I'll be fabbing a custom skid plate to protect my tranny pan next time I happen to run over a big rock. I don't wanna run into another dented tranny pan.

[datrupr]

I just took off the front flaps. They were only held on by a couple of rivets. I think I am going to leave the back ones one until they start to fail also. I love my Cobra CB, it fits perfectly in the second DIN slot where my old factory CD changer was located.