Bigreen505's Trooper Mod tread [Archive]

bigreen505

07-11-2006, 05:01 PM

After a long search for a new truck complicated by some unexpected financial issues and generally feeling like Goldilocks (this one's too big, this one's too small), and detailed at length here (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=628), I bought a '99 Trooper with 115,000 miles. Engine was rebuilt at 90,000 and OME 919 springs, Ranch 9000x shocks and 285/75 R16 Futura Dakota tires were added about 70,000 mi. Overall, I have hopes of it being a good, long lasting and reliable addition to the family.

Mods completed or in progress:

Basic maintenance including hunting down a couple intermitent problems, fixing a couple broken parts and tracking down and fixing a couple pretty big leaks.
Torsion bar de-crank. The T-bars were cranked pretty high, probably higher than necessary, mostly for looks. I'm hoping to recover some up-travel here.
Superwinch manual hubs

Mods on deck (collecting parts, prices, etc. -- working on but not actually started). Hope to be completed by the end of August 2006.

Ball joint flip along with new ball joints and possibly upgraded tie rods from Independent 4x
E-code headligts from Daniel Stern
Cibie Super Oscar auxiliary lighting from same supplier
Storage -- not exactly sure what this will look like, but probably a shelf about wheel well height that will cover the back, but still leave one back seat. I will probably remove the large section of the rear seat at the same time as it looks like it can come and go easily. The shelf will house drawers or storage bins underneath, but still have plenty of room for other gear and dogs on top.

I will probably replace tires early winter with 265/75 R16, though not really sure what, possibly a BFG AT. I've been told BFG has new molds and the tires are round again.

After those are completed a refrigerator, communication and GPS are next on the list, followed by lockers and on board air of some type. Beyond that I need some travel time to see what it is lacking.

kcowyo

07-11-2006, 07:33 PM

Nice Bill! :clapsmile

I know you agonized and analyzed to death.....:xxrotflma

Looking forward to watching it all unfold!!

:beer::beer::beer:

datrupr

07-11-2006, 08:40 PM

I said it before, and I'll say it again Bill, Congrats on your fine purchase. If you don't mind my asking, what exactly is leaking? I have 116K+ on my Trooper and nary a leak. And I just started getting a squeak from the large back door on rougher paved roads. Also, if you get a good deal on the Super Winch hubs tell me where you got them, I have GOT to take care of that. Let me find a post with pics on what I was planning on doing for storage on my Trooper, I am sure you have seen it on Planetisuzoo. Also, though the rear seats will come out "fairly" easily, they are a bit on the heavy side, so it is not something that I would want to do on a regular basis. No, go outside and take a picture or two of your truck so the rest of us can see it.;)

bigreen505

07-11-2006, 09:20 PM

Thanks Aaron. I was told the front pump seal and pan gasket are leaking. I have no experience with automatic transmissions, so I'm not really sure what that means.

I'll PM you with some hub prices, but they all are pretty close.

datrupr

07-12-2006, 12:10 AM

Bill, get that front pump seal taken care of ASAP, the last thing you need is for your pump to quit, and then you fry your transmission. Very costly, and not needed if taken care of. But, replacing the front seal is going to be kinda costly in itself, as the transmission needs to be dropped to get to it.

bootzilla

07-12-2006, 04:11 AM

Sweet! Great choice!!! :gunt: I had lost track of that thread - it is awesome that you went with the Trooper - once you get it squared away, you won't be dissapointed!

The best deal I could find on hubs was at Summit Racing - I'm curious if you found a better deal than that.

And what is the difference between the Euro-spec headlights and the US ones? Pics??

Congratz!

bigreen505

07-12-2006, 12:39 PM

Wow, thanks for the heads up on Summit, that is much cheaper than other places!

Pics coming soon. For more than you ever wanted to know about lights, check here (http://danielsternlighting.com/tech/tech.html). Bascially, it has to do with how the optics of the headlights are designed and where they put light and possibly more importantly, where they don't. I like to be able to see at night, so good quality headlights are important to me. US-spec headlights put lights every where (think of the blast from a sawed off shotgun). E-cod lights keep all the light below hood level so you don't get blinded in snow, with an upsweep on the right side to illuminate the side of the road. You can run much brighter bulbs in these without blinding other drivers since the light pattern is tightly controled.

bootzilla

07-14-2006, 03:51 AM

There is some great information on that site. I am curious, where does he find the trooper e-codes, and did he give you an idea how much they run?

And where/how are you planning on mounting your aux. lights? Bar, Bumper, rack, or otherwise??

bigreen505

07-14-2006, 04:21 AM

There is some great information on that site. I am curious, where does he find the trooper e-codes, and did he give you an idea how much they run?

Not sure on price yet. I think he said that the Trooper lights are coming out of the UK, from the same supplier that he gets his Subaru lights at. I'll let you know when I have a price, perhaps there may a bit of a discount if a few of us are buying them.

And where/how are you planning on mounting your aux. lights? Bar, Bumper, rack, or otherwise??

I don't suppose saying I have no freekin' idea would help you? Winch bumper (ARB, et. al.) is out for now for budget reasons. The advantage of doing them on a rack is that you can set it up in a way that the whole thing can be removed when not in use, and I'm starting to come to the conclusion that I will need a rack anyway, so that is admittedly a front runner. Tad, on Planet Isuzoo, has some pictures of his lights mounted directly to the stock bumper. I think he took the bumper off, mounted the lights, and put the bumper back on.

I'll keep you posted, but it will a while.

bigreen505

07-14-2006, 04:26 AM

Can anyone recommend a good front shock for the Trooper. This thing corners like a beached whale, even with the Rancho shocks on max stiff. I dropped the T-bars some, probably too much, but we'll see.

By comparison, the Pathfinder corners about as well as a Subaru Outback, but is punnishingly stiff on broken pavement. I'm looking for a compromise between the two extremes.

kevin

07-14-2006, 05:47 AM

I am using Old Man Emu N65 firm shocks. They replaced the original shocks that had about 40,000 miles on them. There is a huge improvement in body roll in corners, however I did a complete suspension upgrade at the same time and perhaps the rear is stiffer and helps accomplish less roll. I would think that the ranchos would be similar if set on the firm level, but I have never used them before. What is your complete suspension, front and rear? This may be an obvious suggestion, but you may also want to check tire pressure.

bigreen505

07-14-2006, 03:35 PM

Everything I know is in the first couple sentences of the first post. OME 919 springs, lowered/thin poly bump stops, poly swaybar bushings and Rancho 9000x shocks. Tire pressure is 37 psi all around on mostly worn Futura Dakota tires.

datrupr

07-14-2006, 03:51 PM

Bill, I would not really run any more than 35 psi in your tires, and are probably better off going down to 32-33 psi.

bigreen505

07-14-2006, 04:54 PM

Thanks, I'll try that. The previous owner ran them at 65 psi (max pressure) and the tires are very obviously worn from over inflation.

datrupr

07-14-2006, 06:13 PM

When I fill my tires, I fill them to 35psi, but through the heat here right now, they do not stay at 35, they will usually drop to about 33psi, and I just leave them that way until I have to air up again after a trail run. I am also running on a stock suspension with over 116K on it, and mine handles well, not as good as when I bought it, but it is ok for now. From what I have heard, the OME suspension will increase the handling feel of the truck, but depending on what suspension is chosen, can make the ride a bit rougher. I will have a new suspension here soon I hope.:D

bootzilla

07-15-2006, 04:05 AM

Thanks, I'll try that. The previous owner ran them at 65 psi (max pressure) and the tires are very obviously worn from over inflation.

Holy smokes! no wonder they wore too much in the center.

So the Rancho shocks aren't doing the job, huh? I am thinking of replacing the factory shocks with something a little more stiff - I think I have one going bad - I am noticing some strange wear on one of my rear tires (I need to replace those tires anyways..) - I was hoping that the Rancho's were good - the 9000x are similar in price to the OME's, and adjustable, and the Rancho RS5000 are reasonable priced.

If Daniel Stern can get a better price doing multiple sets of headlights, I'd be interested if the price isn't too crazy - that is one area I think the Trooper could use an upgrade in.

Somehow I missed Tad's bumper-mounted lights, I'll have to jump over there and see if I can find a pic. I was thinking of doing like a Westin bar, because you can mount lights on them, and it is far cheaper than an ARB, but I can get over the fact that the bar is designed more for looks than for functionality - a product of my Land Rover days, I guess...

Scott Brady

07-15-2006, 02:39 PM

I swear by the OME firms. I have over 80k miles on them now and they still work great.

It will be fun to watch the progress :victory:

Scott Brady

07-24-2006, 09:10 PM

Now that you have had the Trooper for a few weeks what do you think?

The little issues worked out?

bigreen505

07-24-2006, 09:20 PM

Thanks Scott. I may look into those.

bigreen505

07-25-2006, 04:57 PM

To answer Scott's question, with the limited time I've spent driving it, the Trooper seems like a good platform. Everything comes down to compromises and while I wanted a relatively small truck for the trail, I'm a bit surprised how short the cargo area is with the rear seats folded, but not removed. I have not measured, but easily 18" shorter than our Subaru Outback (I'm 5'10" and can lay down in the back of the Subaru, but the on Trooper everything below my knees hangs out).

ZooJunkie

08-17-2006, 11:58 PM

For this problem I built a box covering the whole rear section of the cargo area in my Zoo. Once the rear seats are folded down once, I can sleep in the Zoo. I'm only 5'7" but my lil bro in law is 5'9 and didn't have any issues sleeping in this configuration. The first time out in the woods, I found that my sleeping pads are too thin!!

I'll bring some pics of my box, still waiting for drawer sliders so I can complete it.

bigreen505

08-18-2006, 12:44 AM

I came across this thread (http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=38687) and I really like the platform he built as it really mirrors my needs and wants. Ultimately I need to make the Trooper a safe place for people, gear and dogs while bouncing along a rough road, or even in the event of a roll over, at least to the extent that no one gets crushed by the gear. It needs to be big enough to accommodate a reasonable amount of gear, but still allow space for dogs, bikes, etc. on top.

Also, I have to consider construction. While making it out of wood would be quick and easy, it is also very heavy. I think I could make it strong enough with composite panels, either balsa or blue foam (styrofoam) core, laminated with very thin plywood for strength and impact resistance. It would also provide some serious thermal insulation as well. Hmm, that is sounding good. Baltic birch drawers and frame and make thet top from a foam/wood/glass composite.

What to do guys think? As far as I'm concerned, metal is out as I have absolutely no welding experience or skills.

datrupr

08-18-2006, 12:51 AM

Bill, I am going to build my platform similar to the one on Planetisuzoo, I don't remember off hand what the guys name is, but he had pictures of it posted up. Similar, but I will modify mine a bit to better suit my needs.

bigreen505

08-18-2006, 01:52 AM

Bill, I am going to build my platform similar to the one on Planetisuzoo,

This one?
http://members.cox.net/vovkus/Pictures/Trooper/Projects/img_0892.jpg

Somewhat tempting, looks light and just bolted together rather than welded. I like the concept of a drawer, seems it would be easier to keep things organized and reachable.

ZooJunkie

08-18-2006, 04:07 AM

Yup, my box is similar to Big's first post. I'm waiting on some sliders to complete the drawers. One side of my box measures 17" wide, and the other side is 22" I believe. I need to cover mine in carpet so it matches the car.

datrupr

08-18-2006, 04:34 PM

Bill, that is the one, but that picture is showing it without the drawer.

bootzilla

08-20-2006, 03:57 AM

I like the mounting of the air compressor/coupling on the bottom of that platform. Isn't that that guy with the white Trooper with the aftermarket wheels and Surco rack with lights?

I really like that Yota box - verry trick with the slide out drawers and hidden cubby hole. And those drawer handles are indeed way cool...

bigreen505

08-20-2006, 06:28 AM

Yeah, that's the one. I need to really evaluate under hood space. If there is a way to have compressor and batteries under the hood I will probably plan to go that way. I want a dual battery system for a future refrigerator, lights and possibly a winch. I also have plans for a compressor and air tank. I had planned to try to put the compressor in the engine bay, but I saw someone on Planetisuzoo had both compressor and tank in the engine bay (Zaphod, was that you?). Time will tell.

I should have a new mod to announce on the Trooper in the next week or so, but as Datrupr and ExpeditionsWest know (sorry about bitching to you guys so much!), this one is taking a little longer than initially expected. :box:

Todd, my problem with the Toyota box is weight, I don't find 100 lb. to be minimal. I think in a perfect world I would either buy the Overland drawer system or something fabbed from welded aluminum, but since my skills -- as extremely limited as they are -- are in wood and composite structures, I'm looking there. I know I can make some very light and very strong and impact resistant panels with foam and wood veneer or very thin ply wood, so currently that is at the top of the list.

bigreen505

09-03-2006, 12:13 AM

Well, the above alluded to mod has been completed, but I need another week or so of testing before I give any details.

Right now I'm looking a little more closely at storage, and would like some input from the group and I am open to any and all suggestions. Please forgive the length and rambling as I am also using this to organize my thoughts.

At max load, the Trooper will be carrying two, possibly three adults (probably only a couple short trips with three people a year), two small dogs (55 lb. lab mixes), baby in car seat and assorted gear. The majority of trips will be one or two adults and two dogs. I don't think there is any reasonable way to sleep in the truck, even for one person, because of internal dimensions (if you disagree speak up!) so that is not a design criteria.

Rough dimensions that I am looking at at 34"L x 54"W x 14" H, which is the space behind the rear seats and level with flat spot above the wheel wells (see pictures in previous posts). I plan to eventually have a refrigerator where the large side of the rear seat is (like the Expeditions West Trooper).

I am open to any and all suggestions, so bring it on! I am kind of at the retooling stage and don't have most of the basic gear most of you take for granted because I'm relatively new to the concept of vehicle based expeditions instead of using the truck to get to a trail head and hike from there, either to go skiing or backpacking. The point being, I'm not really sure what should go in the drawers/storage area. Off the top of my head:
- 48" Hi-Lift
- Black Rat recovery kit
- Tool box
- Spares
- Fire extinguisher
- Kitchen equipment (plates, utensiles, pots, stove, food)
- Water (probably in a 7 gal. 12"x15" Reliance container)
- Backpacks, clothing, sleeping bags, tent, dog stuff
- Air compressor, at least temporarily

First aid kit is on the door. Cooler and camera equipment are in the back seat floor. I need somewhere to put the dogs. Long term I think they need to be on top of the drawers in the back, but short term I could remove the large rear seat section and build a platform there? Not really sure.

After looking at the space, I am considering two 6" tall stacked drawers on the left side and leave the right side open for backpacks, cases, etc.

Please make suggestions and please don't assume anything is obvious. If I didn't specifically mention it, I probably have not thought of it.

On an unrelated note, I heard back from Daniel Stern about H4 lights for the Trooper and his cost was $450 ea.! :yikes: We are exploring other options ranging from trying to source lights from a European junk yard all the way to building a set of lights from 90mm Hella projectors. I have relatively poor vision and spend a lot of time driving in all sorts of conditions (usually a snow storm at night when I'm in a hurry), so high quality primary lighting is critical for me. I can probably get by with upgraded 9004 bulbs and good fogs as a short term fix, but ultimately the beam scatter of standard American lights (and these are the worst I have ever seen on any vehicle) is just not safe for me, I need a precisely aimed light with a sharp cutoff. Sorry, end rant.

Coming soon: Superwinch hubs, ball joint flip and a CB of some type.
Scratching my head about: how to install some sort of headlight washer system.

ZooJunkie

09-03-2006, 03:50 AM

I'm not sure how tall you are, but for my 5'7" frame, I sleep very comfortably in the back of my Zoo with the seats folded down and my box I made.

sorry bout the poor pic, I was snapping these at night.
Here's the full box:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/resized_rear_box.jpg

The rear section will fit someone up to 6' if you move the front seats forward. I drape a old bed sheet over both head rests and tucked underneath the front of the head rest to keep it from slipping off. So, if you move you seats forward you can easily fit someone who is 6' tall.

right side of the box:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/resized_right_corner.jpg

left side of the box:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/resized_left_corner.jpg

seat folded:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/resized_folded.jpg

both seats folded:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/resized_folded_seats.jpg

Again there's a gap between the front seats and the rear seats' foot well. Draping the bed sheet over the head rests allows me to rest my feet and provide some privacy as well. People looking directly into the front og the car will not see you sleeping.

Underneath the box is plenty of room for storage. I currently do not have my drawers made yet, and with drawers in place, you can easily access the junk from the rear of the box.

I hope this gives some ideas. :costumed-smiley-007

P.S.: The box is not finished, I had to load up my truck with camping gear in Aug, so you see a lot of oil patches! I still need to add my drawers and carpeting.

bigreen505

09-03-2006, 07:44 AM

I hope this gives some ideas. :costumed-smiley-007

It does, it also makes me rethink drawers vs. cases concept for my needs. I think if I go with drawers, they need to be completely removable. As a DD, I need the space under the platform, not tools and such. Being able to load skis on top and gear underneath is a huge deal.

How tall is the top of the platform from the carpet, and if you don't mind, please send a picture of someone sleeping in the back -- I'm still not quite getting it.

datrupr

09-03-2006, 08:11 AM

Bill, great idea. Can't wait to see it finished. And yes, I agree with ZooJunkie about being able to sleep in the back of the Trooper with rear seat backs folded only, and the platform going over the rear seat-backs it can be done. That is my plan anyway. I am 6' tall and with the rear seats completely folded I do have to sleep on the diagonal, but if only the rear seat backs are folded you gain an extra 18" or so of space. Also, in terms of your cargo I think you are right on the money with what you want to store. Now, I would not recommend storing your Hi-Lift back there for ease of getting to it, that and those suckers are a bit on the heavy side, and should probably be stored on the outside of the vehicle somewhere, or at least secured in an easy to access area inside the cabin of the truck. Also, don't forget to add to your list of gear extra fluids (oil, tranny, gear oil, etc) and some spare parts (belts, hoses, etc.). Just my $.02.

Grim Reaper

09-03-2006, 04:54 PM

I have been following your post for a while. A lot of your ideas are similar to mine. My last, last, last, vehicle (79 K5) I had built a wooden deck out of 3/4 ply. Used a large Rubber made container. Then it has two other cubbies for tool box and other gear. It worked well enough. It was swapped into K5 2 for a short wile but that truck ran no roof so the wood wasn't working. Went back in the 79 till we sold it and now it resides in our Suburban.

My problem is 2 dogs. I acquired a Drawer from a service vehicle and made a box for it out of aluminum trying to be miserly on weight and make it just tall enough to handle the drawer.. What I am finding is I can't easily brace the top to support the weight in the center. I have a couple pieces of aluminum angle under there and it just isn't going to cut it with my 200lb frame and another 90'b if the wife is with me. So I will be building a new top out of 1/2 inch ply (unless I can find water proof material that doesn't weigh a metric ton) that will bolt to the existing top. That will give the strength I need. Then put a extension leaf over the folded rear seats like they did in the link you provided.
There is a trick on 4Runners of sinking a storage box into the floor right behind the back seat. With the 2 inch body lift I plan to put on it works out to be quite a large box t 13x30x8 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291387&highlight=floor+box+4runner With a flip up lid on the deck and the drawer open I could gain access to a floor box. Store fluids and axle shafts down there low for CG and mess issue. Also it would be pretty well hidden for stuff like cameras and laptops.

bigreen505

09-03-2006, 05:03 PM

Bill, great idea. Can't wait to see it finished.

Thanks, ZooJunkie certainly accelerated the process with those pictures, and the two of you convincing me that is is possible sleep in it. I had never really thought about the way you are doing it. What do you use for a mattress?

I think I will go ahead and build it out of wood, at least as a prototype, and probably use some sort of cases or bins in the short term. I will figure out drawers (how many, what size) when I have a better feel for what and how I want to carry. I can worry about dealing with composite panels to keep the weight down after the design is finalized and has a year or so of testing and refinement. Or the next time we start to experiment with resin infusion. :hehe:

And yes, I agree with ZooJunkie about being able to sleep in the back of the Trooper with rear seat backs folded only, and the platform going over the rear seat-backs it can be done. That is my plan anyway.

What, if anything, do you do about the gap between the platform and the rear seats. I toyed with the ideal of having a second part of the platform that would go in place of the rear seats, but taking them out is not really practical for shorter trips and for longer trips at least the small side will be used.

Now, I would not recommend storing your Hi-Lift back there for ease of getting to it, that and those suckers are a bit on the heavy side, and should probably be stored on the outside of the vehicle somewhere, or at least secured in an easy to access area inside the cabin of the truck. Also, don't forget to add to your list of gear extra fluids (oil, tranny, gear oil, etc) and some spare parts (belts, hoses, etc.). Just my $.02.

Long term the jack will be outside on a rack or bumper. Short term it will be somehow attached to the platform across the cargo area near the door; hence the 48" jack instead of the 60". I also am not sure if quick fists are strong enough, but I assume they are.

I meant to add a serpentine belt and probably a quart of motor oil. Tranny oil and gear oil I had not thought about about. How much of each would you recommend? What hoses do you recommend? Upper and lower radiator? What about a shovel and axe, are these really necessary, and if so, could they be clipped under the platform?

Thanks guys, you are a huge help!

datrupr

09-03-2006, 06:41 PM

What do you use for a mattress?

Right now I do not have a platform, it is in the design phases at teh moment, so I am not sure what I am going to use as a mattress. Any ideas will be welcome though.

What, if anything, do you do about the gap between the platform and the rear seats. I toyed with the ideal of having a second part of the platform that would go in place of the rear seats, but taking them out is not really practical for shorter trips and for longer trips at least the small side will be used.

My plan is to have a hinged section that will fold over the platform when I need to use the rear seats, and fold over the seat-backs when I need a sleeping area. Does that make any sense?

Long term the jack will be outside on a rack or bumper. Short term it will be somehow attached to the platform across the cargo area near the door; hence the 48" jack instead of the 60". I also am not sure if quick fists are strong enough, but I assume they are.

Gotcha. I think you will be ok with this plan. Also, I think the quick fists will work just fine, but incase of a roll over they may not hold and you could have a Hi-Lift flying around inside your truck.

I meant to add a serpentine belt and probably a quart of motor oil. Tranny oil and gear oil I had not thought about about. How much of each would you recommend? What hoses do you recommend? Upper and lower radiator? What about a shovel and axe, are these really necessary, and if so, could they be clipped under the platform?

I would take more than just one quart of oil. Have enough on hand to perform an oil change if needed, along with a spare filter. Same for the tranny fluid and gear/diff oil. Carry a couple spare rad. hoses. A shovel and axe can come in very handy when you really need em. Now, they may not get used often, but good to have when you do need one. Also, consider taking along a spare air filter and a set of plugs. If stored right this stuff should not take up too much space. I hope some of this helps Bill.

ZooJunkie

09-03-2006, 07:19 PM

Thanks, ZooJunkie certainly accelerated the process with those pictures, and the two of you convincing me that is is possible sleep in it. I had never really thought about the way you are doing it. What do you use for a mattress?
I've been using two mattresses, a cheap high density blue foam pad and a newly aquired Thermarest Basecamp regular and a large. Both will fit nicely in side the Zoo. the blue foam is on the bottom and the Thermarest is on top. The overall system is compact and light.

What, if anything, do you do about the gap between the platform and the rear seats. I toyed with the ideal of having a second part of the platform that would go in place of the rear seats, but taking them out is not really practical for shorter trips and for longer trips at least the small side will be used.
The gap between the front seats and the folded rear seats is spanned by a really easy system. I use a bed sheet draped over the head rests and tucked underneath the head rest on the other side. This only supports the weight of your feet and partial leg, and holds up quite nicely. I'll show some pics when the Trooper comes back. The wife took it!

The reaso I chose a drawer system vs. using pre-made plastic tubs is that I want to utilize every inch of space. With the plastic tubes, you're not maximizing the use of space as effectively as building a drawer into your sleeping platform. If you look closer, the left side of the box the drawer is larger than the right side. This was done to provide a larger space for other items that would not fit in the smaller compartment, and also will allow me to pull the left drawer completely out w/o having to open the small ambulance door on the right.

ZooJunkie

09-04-2006, 06:22 AM

So as promised, my sleeping system in my Zoo. It's not complete, please pardon the dust! I wanted a cheap and quick sleeping system to entice my wife to go camping with me. So having this in the Zoo is incentive for her to join me on my next trip. My next purchase will probably be a Thule box for the roof.

This system works better in tandem with a Thule/Yakima sports box to carry all your clothes and gear within easy reach.
Here's the gap with the front seats fully forward and the back support as upright as possible. Again, with the front seats fully forward, you can fit a 6'-6'2 person in there.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/seats_fully_forward.jpg

Here are the seats fully covered with my bed sheet.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/seats_covered.jpg

Tucked on the other side under the head rest.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/tucked_front.jpg

Full length
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/full_view.jpg

From the head rest
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/side_view.jpg

And here's the sleeping position, with my legs in the pic
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/sleeping_body.jpg

Finally, the front of the car as seen from the outside.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j141/efirolm/Cars/front_windscreen.jpg

Next on my list will be carpet, drawer, and waterproofing.

The dimensions of my box:
top sleeping platform: 37 x 52 1/2 inches
height of the 2 side and middle support walls: 10 7/8 inches
left side box: 37 x 21 1/8 x 10 7/8
right side box: 37 x 17 x 10 7/8

bigreen505

09-04-2006, 03:07 PM

Thanks! Great pictures and great information! Is everything 3/4" ply?

ZooJunkie

09-04-2006, 07:42 PM

No, 3/4 ply is too heavy. I only used 5/8 sheets, I was considering 1/2 sheets but that was a bit too flimsy for me.

bootzilla

09-05-2006, 04:19 AM

ZooJunkie - I've got a Thule box, and it is great for road trips - it would probably work well for general camping, too.

BigGreen - I've been contemplating the storage problem, too. With a big dog, I want to have a lot of floor space in the back. I've been trying to figure out a way to divide up part of the cargo area for the dog, and part for equipment/storage - likea way to do it vertically, instead of horizontally.

The only thing I am worried about doing an elevated floor is the height issue - if the dog could get in (I already have to lift her most of the time), and making sure that she isn't on a platform high enough that she would go flying if I had to hit the brakes hard.

I am curious to see what you settle on. Right now, I carry my recovery gear and a small tool bag in a soft-sided container in the cargo area, but something that is more secure and organized would be great.

bigreen505

09-05-2006, 01:50 PM

The only thing I am worried about doing an elevated floor is the height issue - if the dog could get in (I already have to lift her most of the time), and making sure that she isn't on a platform high enough that she would go flying if I had to hit the brakes hard.

I'm not too worried. Like I mentioned, my dogs are pretty small at 55-60 lb. each. The older one will be eight this November and after two torn ACL's, and two TTA surgeries to repair the damage), I don't really expect her to bounce up to a cargo platform. If she was a 110 lb. dog that would indeed change my plans.

Going by ZooJunkie's numbers, the platform is not too tall since the roof is so high. You could always put in some sort of dog barrier. I plan to have ample cargo tie downs on the platform and will just attach a doggie seatbelt.

bootzilla

09-05-2006, 09:49 PM

I plan to have ample cargo tie downs on the platform and will just attach a doggie seatbelt.

Ah - now you're thinking.:jumping: I had to hit the brakes hard on vacation taking the dog to the beach - with nothing to hold her, she slid around - fortunately she was leaning agains the folded seatbacks, so she didn't really hit anything.

We were trying to figure out how to incorporate a doggie seatbelt with the seats folded - and that is a great idea (that solves the storage problem, too). It would make the project go over well with the Chairman of the Board, as well.

My dog sounds about the same size as yours - in the 60lb range. She is old and has had joint surgery, so I lift her into the car, although somedays she is pretty spry and will try to jump up if I don't catch her in time

bigreen505

09-11-2006, 04:01 AM

I finally got the Trooper out for a short day trip today and have a few impressions, thoughts and photos.

First, the mod I mentioned earlier that I couldn't discuss at the time was a new engine. Had some initial issues, but it seems to be working now.

The trip was supposed to be a weekend long trip (Friday-Sunday) as a birthday getaway for me, but several issues got in the way. The only one that would be of any real amusement to the group is this: I replaced the battery, which was in my opinion substandard, with an older battery I had that still has plenty of life left (or so I thought before I put a meter on it) and the truck would not start. I was quite surprised, but shrugged it off and put the original battery back in. Still no go. Only after scratching my head for 20 minutes did I realize the battery contacts were too corroded to allow enough current to start the truck. They worked before I took out the old battery because they were corroded to the battery. A little sand paper and it fired right up, but the contacts are shot and will need to be replaced as soon as possible.

Thoughts in no particular order:

285/65-16 tires are way too big for the truck with stock gearing if any mountain highway travel is part of your life. Power, and resulting lack of gas mileage, is simply unacceptable for me. Even though I have enough tread to get through the winter, they will be replaced as soon as possible with 265's. If mountain highway travel is not a regular occurance for you, the combination of 285's and the OME lift is not all bad and the additional clearance is a real bonus.

On road handling is truly awful.

General off road performance is pretty darn good, even with the front stabilizer bar connected. I am running Rancho 9000x shocks with OME 919 springs rear and stock torsion bars. I wish the low-range was lower, but the smaller tires may help.

The truck is pretty small, but you can cram in a lot of gear with some creative packing. I definitely need a cargo platform, but I think my plans have changed somewhat. I am going to go with drawers, but they need to be removable. That way I can keep necessary trip equipment in the drawers and then remove them when I need additional storage space, not expedition equipment. I think the refrigerator will go on the cargo deck as you see in a lot of 80 series Cruisers.

It is important to introduce a baby to a tent slowly at home before going on a trip. If the little one is afraid of the tent and refuses to go in it, life can get a little difficult. Additionally, trying to convince said child that a hat and gloves will keep her warm when it is cold and snowing can be an impossible undertaking since children are generally immune to reason.

Colorado is always beautiful, even if the weather throws you a major curve ball.

Subalpine tundra may be more resilient than I thought. There were no signs of the damage caused by the historical vandals I mentioned in another thread, but I did find another camp fire circle in another part of the valley with partially burned boards from a mine building. :violent-smiley-031:

It is amazing how many genuinely friendly people you can meet in a single day.

Torsion bars may settle after you adjust them, and they may not settle the same amount. I mention this because one of mine settled nearly and inch while the other did not settle at all. On my Trooper I have 18.75" from the top of the stock "hub cap" to the bottom of the wheel flare on all wheels with an average load in the back. I think the front could go a little higher with the 285's as I got some rubbing in only slightly crossed axle driving, but is probably fine for 265's.

As I have lamented before, the stock Isuzu headlights leave a lot to be desired. I replaced the bulbs with GE Nighthawks per Daniel Stern, and the improvement was minimal. I will be tackling wiring next as that will serve the dual purpose of more light now and getting the truck ready for e-code lights when I can find some at a reasonable price.

There is little that watching goats can't cure, at least temporarily. I had the pleasure of watch a mother and her kid grazing away from a herd for several minutes before we had to go back. They were enjoying the snow and gobbling up the vegetation despite some people a couple hundred vertical feet below who were far more interesed in their shotguns. :gunt:

In my case the line about a beautiful bouncing baby girl really applies. She enjoyed running around the valley for a while, but ultimately decided that being in the truck was far more fun and the more it bounced the more she laughed. She danced to the tunes courtesy of my iPod adding her own bounce to the trip.

bigreen505

09-11-2006, 04:41 AM

Photos from the trip

The truck
http://www.williamgreenphotography.com/expo/20060910_montezuma_01.jpg

http://www.williamgreenphotography.com/expo/20060910_montezuma_02.jpg

Anyone know why I am looking into storage options? Anyone? Bueller? What you don't see here is the back seat, which contained

my other dog, Mackenzie
my sister
my daughter with requsite gear (car seat, blanket, doll, two sippee cups, snack cup, diaper bag with clothes, toys, books and diapers)
camera gear (which never saw daylight)
tool box
books (we expected plenty of lounging by the water)

http://www.williamgreenphotography.com/expo/20060910_montezuma_03.jpg

And why we went there
http://www.williamgreenphotography.com/expo/20060910_montezuma_04.jpg

ZooJunkie

09-11-2006, 04:43 PM

Coolness! Your dog is adorable.

If you do not want a raised floor in the cargo area, perhaps a verticle storage system? Build a verticle storage system with the same width as the small ambulance door and all the way up to the roof of the truck? You'll have ample space to store most of your camp gear, and the other side for Mac and his toys.

something like this.

bigreen505

09-11-2006, 04:47 PM

No, I'm copying yours and just making sure I use drawer slides that are removable.

ZooJunkie

09-11-2006, 04:55 PM

:beer:

After I move into to our new home, I'll will start on my drawer. My current platform is removable. The top floor is not bolted/nailed to the subframe and this whole system can be removed from the back of the truck.

Why?
1. Wife doesn't think it'll be useful.
2. Getting a 3rd row seating option.

-Matt

bigreen505

09-16-2006, 12:17 AM

Does anyone have tips for removing the castle nut on the upper ball joints? That thing is on there!

bootzilla

09-16-2006, 12:27 AM

If you can find some "PB Blaster" - spray it with that and let it soak for awhile - that stuff does wonders!

I sprayed my shock bolts the other day, hoping that but the time my new shocks get here (they better be here tomorrow, I've been waiting all week) the bolts would come out without much hassle...

bigreen505

09-16-2006, 12:33 AM

They have been blasted. I think I'm just going to go to Home Despot and buy a cheater pipe.

datrupr

09-18-2006, 01:34 PM

Bill, I just used a cheater bar. It took some effort, but I did get them free.

bigreen505

10-07-2006, 04:42 AM

I guess I'm about due for an update. Not too much to report though on the mod front. I ran out of time on the ball joint flip so they are likely to stay where they are through the winter as I can't see a free day until mid-November.

My mechanic traced many of my noises and handling issues to a blown right front shock. Once replaced it is a whole new Trooper and I really like the Rancho shocks.

I removed the sway bar as a temporary fix for more articulation and I'm not sure if I'm going to bother to put it back on. The cons are more body roll, somewhat sketchy transitional handling and significant decrease in straight line stability at highway speeds. The pros are much more neutral handling and somewhat improved steering response. In plain English, the vehicle is tippier, but feels more nimble.

ZooJunkie

10-07-2006, 06:51 AM

Because you removed your sway bar, you should look into adding more toe-in to help w/ the high speed stability. Also, you might want to add a bit of toe-out in the rear to also assist in the high speed straight line stability. A bit more negative camber will help as well, but not as much as adding more toe in the front and rear.

bigreen505

10-26-2006, 03:12 PM

I flipped the ball joints last night. Not too big a job for one person with the right tools. I used a 3lb. sledge and one side took quite a while of beating on it, the other popped off in a few hits. I followed Scott's directions without a problem. If you are using a box end wrench on the castle nut, do not remove the wrench until the castle nut is off. There is room either above or below the nut, depending on how far removed it is, to reposition the wrench. I used about an 30" cheater pipe over the wrench.

I have some very worn pieces in the front end or wheel bearings need to be tightened. There is play, but I can't tell where it is. I'm going to be replacing parts slowly starting with Independent 4x tie rods and we'll see what happens.

It appears that I have one more worn out Rancho to replace as well.

Tires are next on my todo list, but I want to get the all the worn suspension components replaced first. If I can find a way financially to run two sets of tires, I will get a 235/85 Nokian for winter and probably a 255/85 MT for summer. If I'm pretty sure I won't be able to come up with the money for that I will just go with a 265/75 BFG AT/KO as a compromise.

My current 285/75 tires have about 8/32" remaining and float far too much on the snow.

bigreen505

10-26-2006, 03:27 PM

I purchased a set of Bosch Icon wiper blades early this spring to replace my worn out wipers. My general MO for wipers is to buy winter blades in September or October annually. However, they needed to be replaced, I couldn't find winter blades in my size and didn't really want to buy summer blades now and winter blades again in a couple months.

What makes them different:

The Bosch Icon blades looked interesting and because of the design should work equally well summer or winter. The final deciding factor was the aerodynamic shape to add down force to the blade at speed, similar to having a wing on the wiper arm. This was an important consideration as the Pathfinder developed severe wiper lift in cross winds at highway speeds.

Instead of many little "arms" to keep the blade on the glass, the Icon is on giant piece of spring steel with wiper attached to it, theoretically producing more even pressure across the blade and can handle a curved windshield without problem.

I used the blades all spring and summer and found them to be generally satisfactory, but nothing really special.

Today it snowed and gave me the first opportunity to test the Bosch Icon blades in winter driving conditions. I won't say they failed miserably because the did not ice up, but I would grade their performance a solid D-. The spring steel core of the blade does not generate enough force, or is not torsionally stiff enough, to move snow piled up on the bottom and sides of the windshield, and instead rides up over them.

Summary:
The Bosch Icon is a clever design, but not a totally functional one. At $45 a set ($22 each) they are too expensive for a summer blade and not good enough in snow to qualify as a winter or all season blade. If you feel compelled to spend that much money on wipers try the Silblade, Pangaea carries them.

Overall I am not impressed and want my money back.

bigreen505

10-26-2006, 06:39 PM

AZTrooper

10-26-2006, 07:51 PM

I've seen that TOD mod before, but I can't remember where I saw it. I think I'm going to do that too. It was wierd when I first used the TOD. Iwasn't to sure of what to think when the TOD kicked in and the sound it makes when it does.

bigreen505

10-26-2006, 08:20 PM

www.planetisuzoo.com

datrupr

10-27-2006, 02:45 AM

Thanks for posting up that link Bill. I am little slow these days in getting to the boards. This is the first of the bad stuff I have actually heard about TOD. Since mine is a 98 and TOD was an option that year mine was not so equipped, and I have to say I have always been glad it it has never been so.

bootzilla

11-17-2006, 02:14 PM

One more observation from today is the TOD power mod has moved from something I want to do to my #1 critical priority. TOD is a reactive system and changing lanes on a snowy or slushy road requires proactive traction, otherwise you are at risk of a spin. The when the TOD engages the front wheels it is just too little too late.

Definitely. I found this out driving on the beach - if the sand got too soft, the TOD would start to react too slowly, and I would have no choice but to shift to low to lock the center up.

I have all the parts for the power mod - just need a free saturday to get it in...

bigreen505

11-30-2006, 04:46 AM

We got enough snow out of the this storm to make the roads very slick. Tonight I set up a test loop to figure out if my crappy tires are making the truck almost unsafe to drive in snow or if it is the TOD system. Okay, it wasn't a test loop, it was an out and back trip to the grocery store. Speeds were low so I went there in TOD 4-hi and back in 4-lo. Going there was the typical, borderline in control experience that I had previously driving the Trooper in snow. Coming back in 4-lo (center diff locked) was rock solid with completely predictable handling compared with random freak oversteer in TOD 4-hi.

The little test confirmed that the TOD mod (either power or cut wire) is necessary in slippery conditions where 4-lo is not appropriate. And while my tires are worn below what I consider a safe level (about 6/32 on the front, 8/32 on the rear), they are not the problem.

The TOD setting is nice to have, but because of the way it works, I can't imagine it is that much better than simple RWD except while accelerating because it engages minimally and very late.

Scott Brady

11-30-2006, 05:08 AM

I know TOD is engaged electronically. I wonder if there are any mods out there to either manually engage or change the responsiveness.

bigreen505

11-30-2006, 05:25 AM

The TOD power mod puts a dummy load in the circuit telling the computer that there is a speed differential between the front and rear wheels (i.e. slip) so as soon as power is applied it locks the differential. This gives you 2WD, unlocked 4-hi, locked 4-hi and locked 4-lo. From what I understand it costs between $50-$75 in parts depending on whether you use an Isuzu 4WD switch or not, and about an afternoon to install if you are pretty good with automotive wiring, which I am not. It is just a matter of doing it, but I can always find a better way to spend my time.

I don't know of any way to change the responsiveness of the system.

Scott Brady

11-30-2006, 05:43 AM

Try running your front tires at 42 psi and your rear at 28 psi and run the same route... A little Scotty trick that I will take credit for if it works :)

bigreen505

11-30-2006, 05:50 AM

I'll try it in the morning and report back.

bootzilla

11-30-2006, 02:22 PM

I need to do this mod, too. I have the switch mentioned in the article on PlanetIsuzoo - part number # 2-90071-807-0 ... it was only $8, but the thing is, that switch is flat, so it is going to look a little out of place in the dash next to the rounded switches....a rounded switch like the factory one would look better.

I might give it a try this weekend, if I get a chance to pick up a relay and the other parts...

bigreen505

11-30-2006, 11:51 PM

Scott Brady

12-01-2006, 12:57 AM

I'm reporting back. Scott, the change in tire pressure did not succeed in tricking the system into thinking there was slip, if anything it may have had the opposite effect slightly. However it did temper the snap oversteer slightly. It is still there, but not random, not as sudden and much easier to regain control.

As always Bill, you are one smart and perceptive dude...

1. I did hope that the system would be quicker to respond with the change in diameters (assuming there is a tolerance before engagement, the dia. change should improve responsiveness). Any more adjustment would have a negative effect on #2. Based on your comment about "not as sudden" it is likely that the system is engaging a little sooner (before the F/R wheelspin variance is too great).

2. Increasing the pressure in the front tires promotes understeer, reducing the pressure in the rear reduces oversteer, which combined should make the Trooper more predictable and neutral.

While not completely safe for everyday (or high speed) situations, it would be interesting to see what would happen if the rear was set to 24 and the front to 45.

Another point I forgot to mention is the G80 LSD, which is VERY tight. That is another contributor to the ill-behaving rear end.

Bootzilla, I'm not sure what to do about the switch. I like everything to have a nice factory look to it, but unless you go full out on the wiring (which is a possibility, just not one I had considered) it may be bad to engage the transfer case (4WD) without first locking the drive flange (4WD auto). In otherwords, you have to engage 4wd auto and then 4wd or you may risk damaging something and I'm not sure having two switches side by side that look and feel nearly identical, but have to be turned on in order, is a great idea.

What about putting the factory switch to the left of the steering wheel? I have two knock-out positions.

I dont think there would be any problem with engaging the CDL before the drive flange. GM 4wd technology uses heat to expand a fluid and it is very slow to engage. You can be driving for a few miles before the flange locks in.

It would actually have some interesting advantages, like 2wd low.

I also got to play with the difference between TOD 4-hi and 2WD and the TOD is definitely an improvement, primarily affecting directional stability, but a very long way from a locked center differential. In any sort of a turn it is pretty useless since it is only sending power to the front wheels if it detects them spinning. Bottom line is you have 4wd when you don't really need it, but 2wd when you absolutely must have 4wd. Still it strikes me as being useful to have enough to go to some degree of difficulty to wire in an alternative rather than the 30 seconds to cut the wire and disable the TOD system.

It seems that the TOD uses a clutch system that is engaged with electrical current. It would be interesting to connect a volt meter to the power wire and monitor the voltage and if it varied (or was just on or off). Knowing that would allow for adjustments to the input voltage, a la Subaru WRX STI

Scott Brady

12-01-2006, 01:00 AM

I am sure you have seen this, but just incase others have not:

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=109&4-HI_conversion_for_TOD_equipped_Isuzus

bigreen505

12-01-2006, 01:16 AM

It seems that the TOD uses a clutch system that is engaged with electrical current. It would be interesting to connect a volt meter to the power wire and monitor the voltage and if it varied (or was just on or off). Knowing that would allow for adjustments to the input voltage, a la Subaru WRX STI

Scott, thanks for all the comments. I will consider separating the controls.

My understanding is that power is sent to the front wheels in thirds, maxing out at 50/50. As soon as you engage TOD there is a 10/90 split, and the lights on the dash suggest the split is variable.

Scott Brady

12-01-2006, 01:53 AM

Scott, thanks for all the comments. I will consider separating the controls.

My understanding is that power is sent to the front wheels in thirds, maxing out at 50/50. As soon as you engage TOD there is a 10/90 split, and the lights on the dash suggest the split is variable.

Very interesting. I would sure think that a variable voltage input would allow you to adjust the responsiveness of the system. It might be interesting to mess with and could be a cool mod :smiley_drive:

bootzilla

12-02-2006, 03:15 AM

ZooJunkie

12-04-2006, 07:13 PM

TOD has four modes - a front/rear split of 0/100, 15/85, 30/70 and 50/50

The control unit monitors front and rear speed sensors that, according to the manual, output between 0.7 to 6V.

I am curious how the WRX guys tweak this - boost the output voltage somehow to get the diff to act earlier?

Hopefully it won't rain tomorrow, I might take a crack at it...
most of the Subaru WRX guys don't tweak the AWD system. That system is mostly a 50/50 split and does not vary, so it's an entirely different system than the TOD. The Honda does 0/100, 40/60, 30/70, and 50/50 splits, and acts more like the TOD on the Trooper. Both the WRX/STi and Mitsubishi EVO 8/9 are all 50/50 split awd systems.

Zaphod

12-06-2006, 03:34 AM

Another rear cargo rack project:

http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/trooper/Storage/storage.html

bigreen505

12-31-2006, 09:18 PM

I purchased a set of Bosch Icon wiper blades early this spring to replace my worn out wipers.

...

Summary:
The Bosch Icon is a clever design, but not a totally functional one. At $45 a set ($22 each) they are too expensive for a summer blade and not good enough in snow to qualify as a winter or all season blade. If you feel compelled to spend that much money on wipers try the Silblade, Pangaea carries them.

Overall I am not impressed and want my money back.

I may need to temper my comments. The one problem I had with them in snow seems to be an isolated event, but one worth consideration if you live in an area that sees wet snow. So far they have been fine with that one exception. I will report back when they wear out.

On a side note, I'm still scratching my head about cargo storage. A recent trip that saw six pairs of skis, snow shoes, camera gear, porta-crib, baby sled, stroller and a week worth of clothes, ski gear, laptops and work related stuff, food and assorted other odds and ends (no dogs on this trip, no room for them either) again had me wishing for some sort of cargo/gear organization, but also wondering what something flexible enough would look like.

Zaphod

12-31-2006, 09:22 PM

I use the Rain-X ones. Seem to work reasonably well, although they've never seen snow with me behind the wheel. It will be interesting to see. :o

bigreen505

10-23-2007, 01:41 AM

I suppose I'm due for a general update.

Mileage: 125,xxx
Overall: so far so good.
Mods:
Rancho 9000XL shocks:
Rancho replaced the blown shocks with the new 9000XL series shocks in the proper lengths (999136 front, 999144 rear). I can say that the XL series are a marked improvement over the 9000X series, but IMO they are still a poor match for the Trooper, which is just my polite way of saying that I think they are garbage in design, though seemingly reasonably well built. I still have them because they are warranty replacements, but new shocks are still on the docket -- probably OME. While I think other companies make better shocks (Fox, Bilstein) only OME makes shocks in the proper length for the front suspension. The Ranchos 9-position damping selector offers two choices of ride characteristics: smooth but bouncy or jarring.

OME 919 Springs:
These springs were installed by the previous owner and right now I'm not all that pleased with them. They are designed to support a much higher load than I carry and they contribute the rough empty ride. I will likely swap these for the lower rated 912 for a couple reasons. First, until a RTT is in the budget and/or longer trips are on the docket I don't think I will be carrying enough weight to justify the heavier spring. Secondly, I am moving to a smaller tire size and won't need the 3" of lift provided by the 919 springs (the 912's provide a more modest 1.5"). I have been told that the 912's are more flexy than the 919's, which is why Independent4x's 3" lift kit is the 912 with a 1" spacer instead of the 919, but I don't know of any vehicles with a 912 for comparison. The 919's are great springs and really start to show their goods when loaded with at least a couple hundred pounds of gear.

Tires:
I have not bought them yet as the current tires lasted much longer than expected. Long term I hope to run two sets of tires (summer and winter), but for now I need a set for all seasons and all reasons. With that thought in mind I have settled on 235/85r16 size and due to budget constraints they will be whatever I can afford. Right now the Goodyear Silent Armor are in the lead with the Kumho KL78 in second place because of the price available through online retailers (http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=154438&InfoID=4278&ShowLarge=True).

Rear storage:
I've been in the process of considering and building a rear drawer system for a while, somewhat complicated by my wish to keep the stock on-door storage bins. During an extended test fit of what is now known as the prototype, it became unfortunately clear that the decision to keep the bins forced too many design compromises and the bins have to go. As a result the whole unit needs to slide several inches toward the rear and my mounting holes no longer match up, so I have to rebuild the base and sides. The unit will still be built from a mix of 1/2" and 3/4" baltic birch for durability and ease of construction and Johnson Engineering 224 lb. 36" drawer slides -- these things are really beefy.

Coming soon:
Tires
Drawer system #2
Stainless brake lines from Independent 4x in hopes of improving stopping power -- anything will help.

datrupr

10-23-2007, 03:16 AM

Thanks for the update Bill. I was thinking of going with the 919 springs, but I might just change my mind now.

bigreen505

10-23-2007, 03:37 AM

Here is the fine print with the 919 springs. I recall reading somewhere that the 912s are for stock weight, 919s are 220 lb. over stock and 929s are 440 lb. over stock. But, and it is a big BUT, if you read the Expeditions West site and some of the Oz sites, the stock springs on the Jackaroo are much stouter than the stock US Trooper springs, so the 912s are already a noticeable increase in stiffness over stock.

So do the math yourself. If your "empty" weight includes things like a roof rack, RTT, rear drawer system, refrigerator, etc. adding up to 220 lb. or close to it before you start including your standard trip goods then you want the 919s.

Make sense?

If you want better springs for stock vehicle weight, go 912. If you want lift at stock weight go 912 with spacer. If you need increased load handling, go 919.

I think it is also important to match the shocks with your springs and overall application. The OME shocks are designed for the 912 spring. The 919 spring is longer than the 912 shock by an inch or couple.

02AZTrooper

10-24-2007, 01:33 AM

I have 919's in the rear w/1" spacers and longer than called for OME shocks (N85's). I like the way my Trooper rides over stock like day & Night. U.S. Trooper suspensions were designed for mall parking lots not trails. I also replaced my front torsion bars with the stiffer Calmini units. Again I like the ride way better. Of course the weight of the ARB Bumper probably helps the front to not be to stiff. I just like that it does not bottom out with every bump like the stock suspension did. My only problem is that with the long shocks my rear axle has a lot of travel. When I still had my p245/70/16's I ramped my trooper and the spring started to fall out on the extended side at full articulation. Now I have 285/75/16's and the limit on articulation is that the tire on the compressed side will rub on the inside of the rear fender to the point that I can not make forward progress. The rub occurs on the inside of the fender well not the top. So I believe if I get some 1 & 1/2" wheel spacers the tire will be spaced out farther and thus may not rub as soon and may be able to be stuffed a little further into the wheel well. If this works I may then be back to my 919 spring starting to unseat when fully extended. Sorry I rambled. I do like the 919's. I am just trying to get them to do things they were not entirely designed to do.