1986 Ford 4x4 Camper Build Thread

[wrcsixeight]

I have at least a dozen of these muffin fans. At least 4 of them are always running. The bigger the fan, the more air it can move for less noise.

My favorite fan is the 120 mm Silverstone FM 121. It is variable speed. 33 to 110 CFM. At it's slowest speed it is nearly silent and draws less than 0.1 amps. On high speed it is not as loud as some other muffin fans which do not move as much air, and it consumes just over .4 amps. Here is a link to a thread I made over on Vannin' that might be of some benefit to you.

http://www.vannin.com/threads/ubbthreads.php/topics/406453/Muffin_Fan_Madness.html#Post406453

And here is a thread I did on making my Compressor fridge quieter and more efficient:
http://www.vannin.com/threads/ubbthreads.php/topics/386451/Making_the_compressor_Fridge_q.html#Post386451

Newegg has a good selection of muffin fans. They are called Case fans, as in computer case.

Good luck, glad to have been of assistance

[Gunracer1]

well i have read all 26 pages, and enjoyed it. nice van

[X-Roop]

well being unemployed leaves you with a metric ton of free time so i just read your whole thread. (downside of unemployed is no money to make use of the time) but the van is awesome and has made me want one really bad. Maybe i can get my grandfathers old van someday... same one as this pic.http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad122/xterraroop/1994Van.jpggood base in your opinion? i have no idea as i have owned a yj a disco and now my xterra.

[spencyg]

PICS!!!!!

OK...not exciting pictures, but it was time for a photographic update.

First, the new ammeters for monitoring load current and charge current.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060617.jpg

Then, a little sneak peek of what I spent a good chunk of the spring doing...Rust Prevention!

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060613.jpg

I ended up using a NAPA product which converts the rust which remains after agressive wire brushing to a very very hard primer. With two coats of that the surface required a grinding wheel to cut back down to steel...a wire brush would just glance off the resulting substrate. The final finish is brushed on Rustoleum gloss black. Cheap, effective, and easy to clean.

The next picture is just proof that I finally filled in the hole which used to be the enclosed charge receptacle. The new one is made by Marinco and is pretty slick.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060619.jpg

And finally, a very pedestrian picture of the seat which will get a quick release latching system tomorrow (if all pans out according to my lovely wife).

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060618.jpg

I picked up the steel today for starting the rear swing out project (!!!!), so hopefully you'll see some forward progress on that front in the coming weeks.

Ahhhh...I feel better. Don't you?

[spencyg]

A few more updates.

The quick change seat base actually worked out quite well. There is still a slight bit of slop in the lynch pins against the seat base, but unfortunately the design can't really be tightened up much more. Either there is room to install the pins, or you need to force them in to be tight enough. Either solution isn't great, but it is safe and rigid enough so I would personally feel more than comfortable sitting back there.

And with the pull of two pins, the whole seat comes out. Very slick.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060724.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060725.jpg

I also did some work on the refrigerator per WRC's recommendations. Over the last couple weeks, I picked up a few different types of muffin fans. 1 80mm fan, 1 40mm fan, and a 90mm fan. I also picked up a sweet fan control thermo switch.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060722.jpg

The 30mm fan got installed inside the fridge to circulate air. I opted to have it blow over the cold plate to pick up as much cold air before the natural convection causes the cooler air to drop down.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060719.jpg

In the back of the fridge on the condenser coils I mounted the 80mm fan. This along with the 90mm fan which is mounted to exhaust out of the cabinet in which the fridge lives are controlled by the thermo switch which is mounted to the condenser coil rack.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060726.jpg

I was originally hoping to have the whole system controlled by the temp control switch inside the refrigerator, but the voltages which the various components of the system work with aren't compatible, and I wasn't certain whether the internal switches within the fridge could handle any additional load. So instead I opted for an external control switch which is manually activated and would just remain on while we were using the fridge.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060720.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060721.jpg

In an effort to reduce the possibility of leaving the fan system on when we weren't using the vehicle, I installed a small indicator light in the panel to make sure it was obvious whether the fans were active. In addition to the cool little rotary switch and the light, there is also a small 3A circuit breaker installed to make sure everything remains safe in the event of some electrical issue within the circuit.

Initial testing indicates that we're now using about 1.8AH with refrigeration. This is a pretty drastic improvement. I also don't have the thermo switch adjusted quite right yet, so the cooling fan on the condenser and the exhaust fan in the cabinet aren't kicking on when the fridge cooling circuit heats up. If we just maintain 1.8AH of draw I'll be happy, but I'll bet I can do a little bit better.

Next up on the project list is the swing outs...I've already started on some mounting plates and this project needs to be done by the second week of October, so stay tuned.

[spencyg]

Fabrication.

Starts.

Tonight.

[stomperxj]

Good luck with the Fab SG.... Your build is great and an inspiration. You have made me seriously consider a van build in the future. I especially love the way you integrated the factory bumper into your winch mounts. Looks absolutely great

[spencyg]

Thanks! The bumpers were an unexpected success for sure. I really wasn't sure what I'd end up with when I started down that road...

Fabrication started in earnest last night. I realized last weekend that the stock taillights are going to be blocked by the swing arm stanchions, so a revised rear lighting plan was necessary. I picked up a two pairs of Oval gasketed taillights from TSC (See Here) (http://www.tractorsupply.com/trailers-towing/trailer-parts/trailer-lighting/trailer-lights/blazer-6-in-sealed-oblong-stop-tail-turn-lamp-red-0165436) and last night fabricated housings for each side which will weld to the stanchions and hold two of the lights on each side. I finished up late so there aren't any pics yet, but I will say that these swing-outs are going to be anything but "pedestrian".

Stay Tuned.

[Herbie]

I finished up late so there aren't any pics yet, but I will say that these swing-outs are going to be anything but "pedestrian".



Can't wait! Pics pics pics!!

[spencyg]

Here are the new tail light housings which will mount on the swing arm stanchions...

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060822.jpg

And some hitch pins which will be the new swing arm bearing points (along with the beginning of some brackets)

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060823.jpg

And more mount plates...

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/P1060824.jpg

More to come...

[wanderer-rrorc]

on the seats..you could put a piece of thin rubber sheeting cut into washers to tighten it up that last little bit to keep the noise down..

keep the pix comin!!:victory:

[spencyg]

Just picked up one of THESE (http://www.tractorsupply.com/24-quot-x-18-quot-x-18-quot-black-steel-underbed-truck-box-0185054) On a discount sale at the local TSC...

I'm impressed with the build quality of the box. It appears to be a rebranded Delta model, complete with 3 dog locking, rain gutter, and full weather sealing.

Sweet.

[partsflyin]

Hellloooo......... updates??:coffee:

[spencyg]

None! Well, no good ones anyway. Poor Boomer hasn't seen any love for months. Unfortunately I made a very bad decision (which turned into more bad decisions) to tow a project car home in September from about 200 miles north. Up to that point, Boomer had been experiencing some intermittent issues with the C6 transmission slipping when cold, and a weeping driver side head gasket. Of course I ignored this when I decided to rent a dual axle trailer and hit the road. The trip up was uneventful though fuel mileage was pretty bad...around 10MPG. The trip back seemed fine at first. Boomer actually tows a good load very well, and as a result, I was pushing too hard, averaging 60mph on the interstate. About 50 miles into the return trip, the whole cab fileld with transmission fluid smoke. I slowed way down, but didn't want to stop given the traffic and the fear that I might not get going again. I limped into Bangor (the big town up that way) going around 35 MPH. Bought a transmission cooler (yes...I was towing with just the stock radiator cooler...stupid!) and some transmission fluid, and installed the cooler at my folks house in their driveway in a couple hours (they live in the area). Once I started up again, I noticed white smoke out the tailpipe, and slight dripping coming from both head gaskets (external). I had no choice but to try to make it home (another 150 miles) and it was a VERY slow trip. Actually everything went fine, but I didn't want to push anything too hard, so I averaged 45 MPH the whole way back. Long friggin day.

Result:

Cooked transmission and two blown head gaskets, and an old Toyota Supra sitting in the shop.

A whole lot of stupid.

So now I have to decide what to do. I have a couple options.

Option #1. Try and pull the heads with the engine in the vehicle. I've read that this is possible, but not easy at all. The 6.9 has issues with cracked blocks and heads as well, so replacing the head gaskets might not fix my problem. Then remove the transmission to rebuild that on the bench.

Option #2. Pull the engine and transmission, replace the head gaskets, hope the block is ok, reinstall and cross fingers.

Option #3. Find a later model 7.3L IDI engine (known for far less problems), pull the engine I've got, install the 7.3 possibly behind a E4OD 4WD trans. This would be considerably more expensive, but would result in a far more desirable and reliable outcome.

I also have this stinkin Supra now which is consuming the small amount of my extra time and money.

And I bought the Supra because I wanted a project.

Go figure.

[1speed]

Ditch the Supra and show Boomer some love! :elkgrin:

[dwh]

If you rebuild the C6 here's a trick for that trans...explained to me long ago by an expert...

There are two clutch packs, one is for 1st and reverse, and the other is for 2nd and 3rd. There are two drums that these clutch packs fit into - a "3 clutch" drum and a "4 clutch" drum.

On normal duty vehicles, both drums will usually be 3 clutch drums. On heavy duty vehicles, the 1st/reverse drum will usually be a 4 clutch drum.

The 3 clutch drum has a thin spacer at the bottom, then the clutch pack, then an internal snap ring. The snap ring groove is machined way down - like 1/3 the way down - into the drum.

The 4 clutch drum has a thick spacer, then the clutch pack, then an internal snap ring. The snap ring groove is machined up near the top of the drum.

So the trick is, use a 4 clutch drum, with the thin spacer out of a 3 clutch drum, and you can fit a 5 clutch pack into the drum.

Use these 5 clutch drums for both 1st/reverse and 2nd/3rd.

Nowadays you can buy performance built C6 trannies with 5 clutch setups, or specially made "5 clutch drums". I don't know what the difference is between "the trick" and the custom 5 clutch drums.


Also, -some- heavy duty C6 housings have strengthening ribs cast into the back.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/File:Ford-transID01.jpg

[dragogt]

Jmo But I'd keep the mechanicel injection that way you can burn any oil you want and not have to worry about anything, that and I'm all for Less electronics on the engine and trans..

[dsw4x4]

Stew this idea!
The older vans came with manual tranny, so you could find a donor and pull the clutch pedal and bracket then drop in a cummins 12 v with a manual nv4500 or the likes and you would have the bomb of a van:victory:

[wrcsixeight]

Sorry to hear of Boomers drivetrain woes. I'm sure you'll eventually replace or rebuild it in a more robust manner.

[turbohaulic]

^^^x2 I hope to see this van movin again. It's one of the sweetest vans I've seen:ylsmoke: Also if you do end up just doing the head gaskets on the 6.9, put bigger head studs on so you won't have this problem again. IMO just do that instead of the 7.3 swap:D Good luck!!

[bobDog]

None! Well, no good ones anyway. Poor Boomer hasn't seen any love for months. Unfortunately I made a very bad decision (which turned into more bad decisions) to tow a project car home in September from about 200 miles north. Up to that point, Boomer had been experiencing some intermittent issues with the C6 transmission slipping when cold, and a weeping driver side head gasket. Of course I ignored this when I decided to rent a dual axle trailer and hit the road. The trip up was uneventful though fuel mileage was pretty bad...around 10MPG. The trip back seemed fine at first. Boomer actually tows a good load very well, and as a result, I was pushing too hard, averaging 60mph on the interstate. About 50 miles into the return trip, the whole cab fileld with transmission fluid smoke. I slowed way down, but didn't want to stop given the traffic and the fear that I might not get going again. I limped into Bangor (the big town up that way) going around 35 MPH. Bought a transmission cooler (yes...I was towing with just the stock radiator cooler...stupid!) and some transmission fluid, and installed the cooler at my folks house in their driveway in a couple hours (they live in the area). Once I started up again, I noticed white smoke out the tailpipe, and slight dripping coming from both head gaskets (external). I had no choice but to try to make it home (another 150 miles) and it was a VERY slow trip. Actually everything went fine, but I didn't want to push anything too hard, so I averaged 45 MPH the whole way back. Long friggin day.

Result:

Cooked transmission and two blown head gaskets, and an old Toyota Supra sitting in the shop.

A whole lot of stupid.

So now I have to decide what to do. I have a couple options.

Option #1. Try and pull the heads with the engine in the vehicle. I've read that this is possible, but not easy at all. The 6.9 has issues with cracked blocks and heads as well, so replacing the head gaskets might not fix my problem. Then remove the transmission to rebuild that on the bench.

Option #2. Pull the engine and transmission, replace the head gaskets, hope the block is ok, reinstall and cross fingers.

Option #3. Find a later model 7.3L IDI engine (known for far less problems), pull the engine I've got, install the 7.3 possibly behind a E4OD 4WD trans. This would be considerably more expensive, but would result in a far more desirable and reliable outcome.

I also have this stinkin Supra now which is consuming the small amount of my extra time and money.

And I bought the Supra because I wanted a project.

Go figure.My God man! You needed another project? I thought you had one hella of a cool project going all ready. Sell that Supra and put the bucks into Boomer and a case of beer.:coffeedrink:

[foontoon]

I'm a new member but not new to forums but apologize if this is thread creep. I'd rather not clutter up the forum with a brand new thread for this question.

I have a 45' Prevost RV at present. It's a steel bus like a passenger bus or tour bus. 45,000 lbs. I'm relocating to Central America and hate to sell it but it's just not going to be practical there. I found these 26' Turtle Tops they are called. They are built on a Ford F-450 chassis with a diesel engine and already outfitted with roof A/C's and quiet onan diesel generator. Mobile offices essentially that I need to put holding tanks and a toilet and shower in if it is to be my new RV in Central America. I am new to the idea of converting to 4 wheel drive but learned about it on this forum. I wrote to Quigley and the wrote back to say that a 2006 was too old for them to convert. They only list a 350 on their web site so i don't even know what parts would/could be available for the conversion.

What are my other options as I'd like to make this 4 wheel drive just for getting onto beaches. I'm not thinking it will be practical to lift it for any serious off roading. Here are the specs:

CHASSIS:

* 2006 Ford E-450
* 6.0L V-8 Diesel Engine
* Dual Rear Wheels
* 14,050# GVWR
* Automatic Transmission

[dsw4x4]

Ujoint off road (the obvious one)
Advanced 4wheel drive
Salem Kroger
Boulder Off Road
Quadvan
All of these companies do 4x conversions on your van.
If you have more questions go ahead and start a link on it that is what the forum is here for!
Derek

[johnboy]

Awsome build. Sorry about the engine and Tranny.

I have a diesel van of the same year and I'm about to put a salvaged pathfinder system into it. One thing that worries me is the clearance between the engine crossmember and the pumpkin. I was wondering if you could post some pics of that area.

I'm also curious as to what size lift they put on your van. The system I got seems to have a 3" lift block in the rear.

By the way I have a zf5 transmission thats going to be put in as part of my setup. Once the work really begins i'll start a thread. Might be a fun option for your van.

[77J206BT]

Been following this thread, looks good. How is the center of gravity on your rig? Just thinking of 35's and a couple inch lift.

If you actually plan on cross country and heavy off road and have on board air I recommend ARB air lockers for your front and rear axles. Then you can drive on highway with open difs and lock as needed offroad. If not, at least a detroit locker in the front and rear.

[New River KTM]

Here is a pic of the front Pathfinder set-up on my 89 E-250.

[Jonny]

Ujoint off road (the obvious one)
Advanced 4wheel drive
Salem Kroger
Boulder Off Road
Quadvan
All of these companies do 4x conversions on your van.
If you have more questions go ahead and start a link on it that is what the forum is here for!
Derek

You seem to be leaving out one of the major conversion companies here???

Anyone know who's missing? :rolleyes:

[Photog]

Quigley does 4x4 conversion. For many years, they would not work on a used van. Maybe they have backed off on that, to improve their business volume.

[ujoint]

You seem to be leaving out one of the major conversion companies here???

Anyone know who's missing? :rolleyes:

Somebody...... In Fresno?!?!? ;)

[lostfamilyof6]

wow, just found this thread and I read all 28 pages.
first off sir, may I say you have an awesome van!!!
Second, if I may be so bold as to second the opinion of going with the Cummings 12v I mean if your going to have to pull the engine anyway this would provide you with SO MANY more options.
Third, I would hate to see this project die so please figure out what your gonna do and get to it so I can have something to dream about at night :sombrero:

I know time, life, money, family and everything else seems to get in the way but wow you have come so far in the last few years and now I have several hours of reading invested..... i'm not going to get those back you know :drool:
Just kidding but I do hope you carry on and don't get to discouraged.
This is an Awesome van.

[That One Guy]

You seem to be leaving out one of the major conversion companies here???

Anyone know who's missing? :rolleyes:

It's missing because he said he called them, and they told him they wouldn't work on is van.

[blupaddler]

So now I have to decide what to do. I have a couple options.

Option #1. Try and pull the heads with the engine in the vehicle. I've read that this is possible, but not easy at all. The 6.9 has issues with cracked blocks and heads as well, so replacing the head gaskets might not fix my problem. Then remove the transmission to rebuild that on the bench.

Option #2. Pull the engine and transmission, replace the head gaskets, hope the block is ok, reinstall and cross fingers.

Option #3. Find a later model 7.3L IDI engine (known for far less problems), pull the engine I've got, install the 7.3 possibly behind a E4OD 4WD trans. This would be considerably more expensive, but would result in a far more desirable and reliable outcome.

I also have this stinkin Supra now which is consuming the small amount of my extra time and money.

And I bought the Supra because I wanted a project.

Go figure.


Sorry to hear... That is a bummer.

It seems the easiest (kinda) option would be to pull the engine and tranny. Rebuild both of them. And you would be set for a long, long time. Maybe try to add an overdrive to the C6, I have heard of different options. And I don't know if the 6.9 is turbo'd or would even respond well to a turbo.

If you want to pave the path, for me and others, install a Cummins. From what I have read, the adapter plates for Ford to Cummins are easy to find. The difficult part is getting the Cummins under the hood/hump area. Same with the 7.3. It would be great if the 6.9 and 7.3 had the same motor mounts too. There just isn't too much information on the people with vans who have done the swap. You might want to hit up Andrew S. here on portal, he is pretty experience with diesels, cummins, and the swap process.

My ideal plan would be to put a Cummins into my 88 E350. I just don't have the skill, time, or more importantly money to accomplish this.



Good luck with your decision. I, along with others, are following.
:coffee:
:beer::beer::beer:

[johnboy]

Thanks for the pics quick river ktm. It looks to me like you have a single pan hard bar instead of the old-school trac bars.
Is this something that you put on or did your van come like that?
I'm also wondering about the cross-member. It looks like it was cut and not boxed which I think would be fine considering the suspension is no longer supported by it.

Anyhow back to the topic at hand. Spency-G we are all praying for you and Boomer. I'm just speaking for myself but I haven't been sleeping well since your last post. I think maybe a bakesale is in order to get the show on the road. JK
Hope all is well.

[New River KTM]

Yes I have the single bar the front x member/mount is cut and boxed. The van is down getting some Fuel injection issues attended to but when back I'll take some more shots. The single bar does the job of locating the front axle and installing the longer Bronco springs +2" was a snap giving me an additional 2" of lift. The pictures I posted were before I rebuilt the front end (all of the bushings were shot). I have seen the strange 4 link front end system and can't see how you can get any decent articulation but youshould be able to convert it to a single track bar pretty easy.

[TroySmith80]

Spency, how is the sleeping room up in the upper bunk? Is it super claustrophobic? Reasonably comfortable? I realize this is a highly subjective thing but i'd love to hear your thoughts.

About how many inches from the top of the mattress to the ceiling?

[Photog]

Spencyg may have moved on. He has not posted anything since December 2010. The post before that was September 2010. :(

[bobDog]

Spencyg may have moved on. He has not posted anything since December 2010. The post before that was September 2010. :(Moved on? Like crossing to the other side?...Not posting cause nothings happening? Too busy? To bad we don't have the Facebook type 'poke'.....:sombrero:

[spencyg]

Hello all.

Sorry for the absence. Life with a daughter has reorganized priorities and Boomer hasn't gotten the attention it has deserved for quite some time. That being said, I'm far from gone and Boomer is still sitting in the driveway.

To answer some of the questions above:

-The Cummins 6BT isn't going to happen easily in an E350 chassis. The length and height would be serious problems and for what you'd gain over the 6.9/7.3 engine I highly doubt it would be worth the trouble. I did contemplate a 4BT, but with Boomer weighing in at 8500lbs dry, it would be a lot to ask out of a 3.9L 4 banger.

-Sleeping in the upper bunk is tight. I don't personally mind it, but my wife has sworn she will not spend a single night up top. My daughter is approaching 2 years old now, and before too long I suspect we will find a way to have her safely spend her nights up there in her own little apartment. When I'm lying down, the ceiling is probably 10" from my nose. I have thought about making the forward part of the cap pop up like a VW camper bus, and this might happen eventually.

-Nothing about the front Pathfinder suspension is adequate in my opinion. Just getting rid of one of the bars would lead to horrendous bump steer issues, and the method the bars are attached to the axle wouldn't be what I consider safe when you've only got one. I have the intention of fully redesigning the front end at some point to have a single trackbar and longer radius arms. While I'm at it, the front knuckles will be swapped out for something with more adequate brakes...I'd like to see at LEAST a 14" rotor up front. The brakes currently (combined with all the other lovely handling attributes of the van) are marginal at best, especially when its loaded.

OK. So where is everything at currently? This is what everybody (at least, everybody who even remembers who I am on this forum...this place has really blown up in the last year!) is thinking, I'm sure.

First off, Boomer is currently dead.

Yes, this was suspected last fall when I towed home a project car from up north, but it has now been confirmed. I actually first thought I'd killed the C6 transmission, but this spring I dropped the pan to swap out fluid and filters, and the pan and oil looked fine. There might be a weeping front seal on the torque converter, but as far as the transmission function and health, I'd say we're probably at a B+ or A- right now. Certainly workable.

But the engine is another story. We were actually going to take the old girl out for the annual trip to VT a week or so ago, and during the pre-departure walk around, I discovered a coolant overflow tank overflowing with engine oil. Head gaskets have been something I've been watching ever since late 2008 or so, but I'm certain the added load of a 6k lb trailer / car combo last fall was the last straw. After some research I learned that it could also possibly be the oil cooler. The head gaskets have been weeping externally for a year now, so even it the cooler was also partially to blame, it all needs to be fixed. Given the season of playing outside is upon us, I've been thinking about how to get Boomer back on the road without breaking the bank and without spending all summer wrenching.

The Plan:

Pull the heads with the engine still mounted. This is possible, but certainly not fun. This will involve removing the front seats and doghouse, front bumper, radiator, grille, all radiator supports, all front accessories, intake, exhaust manifolds. To say it is going to suck would be a hideous understatement, but the only other option is removing the engine which would equally suck, and undoubtedly lead to the creeping project syndrome. I'm not opposed to eventually pulling the 6.9 and replacing it with the far stouter 7.3 (and a turbo), but that would be a huge project, and I don't have time or money for a huge project at the moment. So hopefully I get out of this with new head gaskets, a steam clean and gasket surface shave at the machine shop, maybe new valve seals and glow plugs, and ARP head studs. Oil pressure at idle is still reading around 20psi, and under way it is a steady 40+, so the bottom end seems ok. I'm probably going to start this project the second week in July, and hope to be done by the beginning of August with a limited amount of available wrenching sessions.

Otherwise, Boomer is in good shape. It seems to have wintered well and all systems are ready to go. The house batteries might be showing signs of the typical abuse that comes along with continual discharging, but for now I'm not going to worry about them. The work I did on the frame last spring is still holding strong. The brakes probably need to be turned up front, and I might dig into that if the motor project goes off without too many glitches. Those infernal rear swing-outs are about half done and I have everything I need to finish them except time. I still have a burning desire to finish my DRAM project, though at this point I think it would be best to just start all over again. I really hope to have use of the camper by August, or at the least, September for some good fall fishing up north.

In other news, the shop is pretty much done. I have re-acquired a number of machine tools and have started to contemplate new and crazy projects. That project Toyota Supra I acquired last fall (yea...the one that killed Boomer) consumed my evening shop efforts all winter, and this spring I decided there was just too much rust to justify moving forward. So off to the scrap yard it went. Not two weeks later I found another one of the same year and brought it home (using a different tow vehicle this time). I've been slowly plugging away at that project, but this summer it will obviously be taking a back burner.

Work in the Automation industry continues to please and pay the bills, my daughter gets more hilarious every single day, and my wife redefines the term saint on a daily basis....most people would have thrown me to the curb long long ago.

I'll do my best to update on the Boomer progress as the horrors begin to unfold.

Best wishes to all.

SG.

[offroadcruiser]

Hello all.

Sorry for the absence. Life with a daughter has reorganized priorities and Boomer hasn't gotten the attention it has deserved for quite some time. That being said, I'm far from gone and Boomer is still sitting in the driveway.

To answer some of the questions above:

-The Cummins 6BT isn't going to happen easily in an E350 chassis. The length and height would be serious problems and for what you'd gain over the 6.9/7.3 engine I highly doubt it would be worth the trouble.

Best wishes to all.

SG.

And that Boomer may recover. I have followed your story for years with interest since I put a 7.3 non-turbo into a 24 foot E-350 based camper in 1998 to replace the gas 460

The 6 cyl Cummins does fit, a member of the 4x4 Yahoo Van List installed one in his E-350 and even drove to my house to show me the installation, however I agree it is not worth the trouble when the 6.9 / 7.3 are perfectly adequate. But it certainly fits if anyone else wants to make the conversion.

With the 7.3 I also installed the E4OD auto and find the overdrive to be very useful compared to the C6 that was behind the 460, much less engine noise since the revs are lower.

Since then I have bought a 5 speed ZF manual but not had the time to install it behind the 7.3, still wondering how to install the clutch pedal.

I think that you may have to drop the engine mounts, maybe one at a time to remove the heads, I am thinking if you remove the left engine mount to work on the right head then then reverse the process for the left side you may have enough clearance to lift the head without removing the engine. You may have to loosen the tranny mounts also to allow the whole combo to twist.

I am sure that you already know that an air chisel will remove the large nut holding the rad cooling fan (left hand thread). Removing the fan makes taking out the radiator easier.

I also have an E-350 4x4 van I converted to the 7.3 with the Quigley front end and from the pictures the Quigley setup looks better than the stuff you have on Boomer but still not as good a leaf spring conversion. Since you are very handy with tools and welding converting Boomer to leaf springs may solve your front end tracking problems.

Good luck with bringing Boomer back to life, after a leakdown test etc. you may find that not much is needed and hopefully you won't have to work all summer on Boomer.

Carl

PS: I also use the camper to carry my dirt bike.

[rockbender]

Don't dismiss the 6.9L to get the 7.3 so hastily. Being an '86 you probably have the newer block that is less susceptible to cracking at the block heater. Other than that, if you do the ARP head studs you will arguably have a more bullet proof motor - the 6.9's didn't have the cavitation issues that the thinner walled 7.3's had.

[Lopracer]

Glad to see you are back (so to speak). Sorry to hear you are fighting the head gasket battle. I am presently doing exactly the same repair on my old (1986) GMC, it's a 350 so not nearly as much drama to undertake, still. I hope it all works out well and you're back on the road soon.

[spencyg]

Interesting point about the 6.9L. I have read that doing head studs with the motor still in the engine bay is pretty much a no-go. That being said, I've also read that it takes less time to remove the motor than to try and do the head gaskets in place. Given the age of the van I suspect removing the exhaust manifolds could be a real sticking point (ha). I suppose at the point where you have the motor unbolted, all the accessories off, and the front of the van ripped clean, there isn't much more time in actually pulling it. To say I'm not at least considering this after poking around the engine bay last night would be a lie. Of course, as I mentioned previously the possibility of project creep the minute you pull the engine is enormous, and obviously some things would be foolish not to address when you have the oppertunity. I dunno. There is an enormous amount of work to do regardless of what ends up being the actual course of action, and 90% needs to be done regardless of the final direction.

Does anybody have any info on how much of a direct swap the 7.3L E4OD transmission is in place of the C6?

See ^ . This is where bad things start happenning.

SG

[offroadcruiser]

Does anybody have any info on how much of a direct swap the 7.3L E4OD transmission is in place of the C6?

See ^ . This is where bad things start happenning. SG

I removed the 460 gasser and the C6 at the same time then inserted the 7.3 with the E4OD already attached and never tried to adapt the C6 from the gasser to the 7.3 so the rest of what I have written may not help you at all if you are wanting to connect a 7.3 to your C6 from the 6.9.

On the other hand if you are planning to connect an E4OD to the back of your 6.9 or to a donor 7.3 then what I did in 1998 may be useful to you.

My 1986 E-350 Camper is a 1985 build year and a former Ford Tech called me from his home long distance to tell me that I needed to bend the steel under the floor up slightly (about an inch) where the doghouse ends, apparently the C6 behind a gasser is not as 'fat' as the E4OD, he also gave me lots of other helpful info but you already have a diesel there so it should be a lot easier.

I used the 7.3 motor mounts from the donor van after grinding off all the 460 mounts but you already have a 6.9 so there should not be any issue with the mounts.

I was told not to buy a 7.3 donor from a pickup truck because the oil cooler on the drivers side is not same as a van's and there may be interference with the van motor mounts; I assume that you can re-use the oil cooler from your 6.9 if you want to go with a 7.3 from a truck.

The E4OD tranny crossmember and mount from the donor van was used and the C6 mount and crossmember were discarded. Two holes had to be drilled into the frame to bolt up the E4OD crossmember further back since the tranny is a lot longer.

It cost me less than $100 to have the driveshaft shortened and re-balanced but that was in 1998.

The 1985 cab does not have a place for the E4OD computer under the heater box and I do not know if your 1988 (since it is a camper it has a longer build process and may be a 1987 factory build) has that slot for the computer. I placed my tranny computer behind the parking brake pedal and had to put another hole in the firewall for all the wires to the computer.

BTW the computer from the dealer is very expensive and only available as a trade in, at least the core charge was ridiculous. There are now other computers that can replace the OEM computer for the E4OD.

I read that early E4ODs were not as strong as your C6 but you can now find extensive info on the net about all the changes that were made and how to build a very solid E4OD.

I already had a rear axle with the 'speed sensor?' that the E4OD needs but I am told that there are other signal generators you can connect to the driveshaft so you do not have to replace the rear axle to get a speed sensor. In any case my E4OD shifted fine even without the speed sensor connected.

I purchased the electrical wiring diagrams and other manuals from the dealer (should be available on-line now but in 1998 cost around $100) for the donor van model year, marrying the 2 wiring harnesses can be a challenge.

Remember that the wire coming from the lock-up torque converter on the E4OD into the cab has to be connected to negative ground (not 12V positive) to lock up the converter; once I figured that out I was fine when I converted to a manual lock-up switch.

The 1985 cab had to be drilled to receive the bolts for the radiator but again you won't have that problem. I ended up buying a brand new rad ($ 900 trade price) since the diesel rad from the donor van was too old but probably there are no differences between the 6.9 rad you already have and a 7.3 rad.

As mentioned in my previous post, I want to try a 5 speed manual to replace the E4OD but I am still using the same tranny from my original donor up to now.

Good luck with Boomer, PM me or post here if you have any questions. I am also on Skype if you want to try voice.

Carl

1986 E-350 camper converted to 7.3 IDI and E4OD
1991 4x4 E-350 converted to 7.3 IDI and E4OD

[blupaddler]

Spencyg, glad to hear that everything is well!
Welcome back.











Carl, welcome to the portal! I will probably PM you about your conversion...

[trailrunner]

BOOMER! Is Back! This is the only van build I have followed.

[spencyg]

The great extraction starts tonight.

Oh my God.

This is going to suck.

[New River KTM]

Spence, As just having my 89 e250 C6 tranny out for a rebuild all I can suggest is go slow and take your time. I did my entire project myself with just the slightest help from my 12 year old daugther. Now that my van is back together she drives completely different. By rebuilding Boomer you should see a big difference when you're done. Hey take a few photos during the project if you could. I made the mistake of forgetting to. Good luck.

Fellow Quadravan owner.

[random]

Howdy, just wanted to say I love your build and your DRAM project. I've done a bit of engine work on these vans and it's almost always easier to pull the motor than to do the work in place. Good luck bud!

[spencyg]

I have been busy on Boomer...I promise.

Tons of pictures to come.

So far:

-40 hours of wrenching to extract the diesel
-30 hours to install new head gaskets, ARP studs, clean and paint, rebuild injectors, replace water pump
-10 hours into minor rust repair on the nose of the cab, painting the engine bay
-8 hours into fabricating new battery trays (old ones rotted)

Within the next week I should start reinstalling the engine. I'm not looking forward to it.

Looks like Boomer will get 0 miles put on it this year. Total Suck.

[Bobfab]

Let me first congratulate you for your persistance and patience with this project while trying to juggle "real" work and a young family. Hats off to you!

Secondly, let me say that i have just read all 30 pages of this thread and my employer's internet connection is pissed. This is a great build thread with a really cool vehicle. Thanks for sharing every step of the way with us! I hope to see you get it back on the road soon, its a great project!

Sidenote: Any pictures of the supra? What gen was it?

[spencyg]

Juggling everything with family obligations certainly has made this rebuild take far longer than I had hoped it would, but by now I'm used to that.

Unfortunately, this is all leading up to putting Boomer on the market this coming spring. It frankly is too small for our needs, and we just don't use it enough to justify ownership (even when it has an engine in it!). So I'm doing everything right, making sure all the small issues are addressed with the hopes of a quick sale to the right buyer.

The Supra is also gone. It was an '87, but it was the kind of project that doesn't end with great family adventures or anything like that...just a silly old sports car which was probably just going to get me in trouble.

So now we have a boat :)

Engine sleighted for reinstall next week.

[ExpoMike]

So now we have a boat :)



I'm sorry... :snorkel:

[spencyg]

Ha! We are boat people at heart....we live right near the ocean and spend most of our summers wishing we were bobbing around somewhere. Between that desire for aquatic adventures, the finances to only support one large toy, and the outgrowing of the rig, it is an obvious (yet, admittedly quite painful) choice to move on. When Boomer goes, there will be tears shed.

I can tell you however that the build thread for the boat (on some other website) will be far more epic.

[blupaddler]

Spence, sorry to hear about the plans to sell the van...
They become like family members after a while.

But, someone will get a great running van. There is solace in that, right? (At least that is what I kept telling myself when I sold my 80)



But first... Give us details on the boat! Sail, motor? Loa, draft...

[a.mus.ed]

love this build. i really hope it goes to me, but since that isn't going to happen i hope it goes to someone who will keep us happy with pics.

[truck mechanic]

I am in no position rite now, but come spring time I just mite be, let me know when your ready to sell.
Thanx Paul

[Outback]

Vehicles come and go. Some we are glad to see gone while others we regret we let them go. I have a feeling this will be one of the regrets. Post some pics when you can.

[spencyg]

BIG UPDATE TIME

So just a recap:
Last September I was towing home a project car (first mistake) from up north with Boomer. Trip up was fine, loaded on the way home traveling along at a not-so-leisurely 60MPH (by Boomer standards) I finished off the driver side head gasket and also pressurized the C6 transmission case enough to blow ATF all over the hot exhaust. Stopping in Bangor (about the half way point) I bought a transmission cooler (yea...I know I know...never tow without one) and installed it at my folks house nearby. The rest of the trip was slow (40mph max) and at the end, the head gaskets were truly toast.

So that was the last trip Boomer has seen...LAST SEPTEMBER. Not 2011...we're talking 2010 here.

So on Memorial day weekend of 2011 I thought maybe I could get by with a trip to VT with the family...looked everything over thinking maybe I'd be ok, but when I popped the Radiator overflow bottle to find it full of engine oil, I packed it up and we did the motel thing instead.

July 2011 I finally start the engine removal process. Approx. 40 hours of wrenching to get the engine READY to take out. It was insane. It wasn't fun. It sucked. The 40 hours of wrenching was spread over a couple weeks due to other commitments.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/JuneJuly11008.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/JuneJuly11009.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/JuneJuly11014.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/JuneJuly11013.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/JuneJuly11011.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/JuneJuly11019.jpg

While I'm in there, I of course find rust because that's just how it is up here...if it isn't rusty now, it will be soon. The frame and crossmembers all looked good, as did all of the rest of the brake lines which would normally be buried. Battery trays were toast, as were a couple areas on the front radiator support.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/JuneJuly11017.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/JuneJuly11018.jpg

[spencyg]

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/JuneJuly11021.jpg

So finally it was time to pull it out. And we accomplished what seemed for hours to be an impossible task. 7 hours later (with only 4 bolts requiring removal, the rest being lots of swearing) the 6.9L IDI International diesel came out.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11002.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11001.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11003.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11007.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11008.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11009.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11006.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11011.jpg

(Note...this engine is HUGE. Right around 1000lbs of iron)

[spencyg]

So disassembly of the engine commenced.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11013.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11001.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11022.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11026.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11025.jpg

And I got to work rebuilding the oil cooler

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11015.jpg

These were once O-Rings.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11016.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11021.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/7-26-11023.jpg

You'll keep seeing that Red scheme throughout...Think International Fire Engine.

[spencyg]

While I had everything apart, I did the water pump as well.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11002.jpg

ARP head studs and Victor Heinz head gaskets

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11001.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11044.jpg

I actually bought a second 6.9 for dirt cheap because I needed some spare injectors and some other parts. The second 6.9 came with a new oil pan, so I thought it might be good to swap out the seemingly crusty one from Boomer's engine while I could. After removing both, it was clear that Boomer's pan (stock) was far sturdier than the aftermarket one that came with the spare motor. I wire brushed it down, primed and painted, and reinstalled the stock one.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11064.jpg

A side note: Boomer has been running Synthetic Mobil 1 oil since it was new, or nearly new. When I pulled the stock (never removed...stock sealant) pan, there was NO sludge and the steel inside, and the internals of the rotating assembly looked brand new. Boomer only has 65k miles on the clock, but it is also 25 years old and I would have expected things to be pretty slimy. Needless to say, I'm going to continue using Mobil 1, and we just started using it on my wife's new car. I'm a believer.

So the engine was pretty well wrapped up, but I had some frame and sheetmetal work to do.

Fabricated some new battery trays
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11043.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11045.jpg

Did some sheetmetal work and lots of rust sealing and painting:
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11039.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11040.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11041.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11042.jpg

And then, as though nothing had ever happened,

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11066.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/10-7-11068.jpg

We put it back in. This time we did it with 3 guys and my new hydraulic walkie Forklift. Only took 3 hours to get it mated to the transmission:ylsmoke:

So that is where we stand. 2 days after the last picture was taken I once again blew my back out, so the only real reason I've taken the time to post this is because I'm on the couch with my feet up trying to make my poor abused back forgive me (for the 50th time). The surgery from nearly 3 years ago has done me well, but I'm afraid I might have undone something this time. So progress moving forward will be slow on all fronts.

At this point, that boat project I referred to is looking like less and less of a good idea since it takes very little to trigger badness in my spine, and a pounding boat might be the very definition of spine tingling badness. So maybe Boomer isn't going anywhere. Who knows. For now, its got a heart again (though the heart hasn't started beating) and there are many hours of wrenching ahead of me before we're back on the road. I'd like to think the old girl will start up before the snow flies, but I can't guarantee this.

Sorry for the delay in pictures...more to follow as the work they represent once again
progresses.

[JeepN95YJ]

I really love this truck.

[blupaddler]

Congrats! :wings::wings::wings::wings:

I have only pulled VW engines, so I shudder to think of the time you spent pulling that beast of a motor from the van. Especially since I have been contemplating of pulling the 460 and replacing it with the 7.3 International... Your frame/motor mount cross member appears to the be the same as what is in my van as well.

I really dig the International Red too!

Sorry to hear about the back troubles. Back injuries are the worst type in my opinion.

Regarding the boat idea, coming from working on Rescue Boats, specially designed Boston Whalers, the majority of the time the last ten years... They can hurt your back. But driving conservatively, effectively and, knowing when to go fast or slow makes a huge difference. My back is almost more sore from a couple days of driving a vehicle than a vessel though.

Good luck with putting the remaining stuff back together and especially healing your back! I would help if was a little closer!!!

[spencyg]

Pulling the engine hasn't been a fun experience Robb. It has however provided an oppertunity to understand more fully everything that is going on under the hood (it used to be a giant unknown). It also allowed me to discover a gigantic vacuum leak (i.e., there was a big enough leak that there was no additional vaccum available for brake booster assist, cruise, etc) which I never would have discovered otherwise. Finding the rust and having the oppertunity to repair it correctly was also a definate benefit. That being said, I hope I never have to do this project again. As far as I can tell at this point, there is no reason this engine won't go for a few hundred thousand more miles, and at the rate Boomer accumulates miles, I'd be 400 years old before hitting that kind of odometer reading.

Yes. I just bought a turbo yesterday.

Crap.

[rockbender]

TURBO! You're back in with both feet! What turbo did you end up getting? I have the old Banks kit on my 6.9, and while it works great and definitely improves power on the upper end (good for towing, pulling grades) I can't help but think that a wastegated turbo would be nice since it spools up at lower RPM's and would probably get you more added economy than the non-wastegated model. Haven't driven/ridden in one so I'm purely speculating. Regardless, either one will really wake up the 6.9.

I'll be curious to see what your impressions are and what economy gains you see.

Nice job attacking the engine project - I hope I never have to do that!

[spencyg]

I have heard the Wastegate helps spool at lower RPM's. The turbo I've got is a non wastegated version. I'll try it without at first, and may find the need to add an external gate in the future. I'll be doing a remote setup like I'd planned before, so adding the external WG after the fact wouldn't be a problem. I may even account for it during the fabrication with a blockoff plate.
I had sold the Holset H1C quite awhile back thinking that I'd never need to really do the project, but as usual, I'm regretting it. I have found another H1C which will be really good down low, while maybe being a bit small if I was trying to get 250+hp out of the engine. The map on the H1C and the engine calcs for a 2200RPM cruise suggests I'll be right in the boost when I'm headed down the road at a reasonable pace. I am not going to put in turbo injectors (currently tuning pop pressures on the stock ones I've just rebuilt), and I suspect I'll leave the FI pump alone as well (OK...maybe turn it up just a whisker). This move really is to get the N/A diesel BSFC (brake specific fuel consumption) of around 0.4 (mech injected idi n/a diesel, standard factor) down to around 0.32-0.34 (same scenario but turbo). It should immediately (theoretically) give me over a 20% boost in MPG. Down the road I foresee a Gear Vendors OD which will only add to the efficiency. All said, I'd love to see a consistent 16-18 MPG. Might be a pipe dream, might not.

[rockbender]

If your turbo is designed as a non-wastegate I don't think that adding a wastegate is going to do anything unless the unit builds more pressure than you ultimately want. A wastegated turbo is 'lighter' and will spool up faster but has to have a wastegate as a blow off valve so to speak so that it doesn't over-rev and/or build up more pressure than your engine can handle while a non-wastegate is 'heavier', requiring more exhaust flow to get it moving. The non-wastegate is designed so that it is at its mechanical limits before creating too much boost. I'm sure you know all this; I'm just not familiar with the properties of the H1C and how much boost it is going to put out and when.

A consistent 16-18 would be awesome, and I'll be curious to see what a difference you realize by going with the fresh injectors themselves - I'm guessing this may be a weak link in my system (perhaps the IP too). With a GV and turbo on my 6.9, I'm seeing an average of about 12.5 mpg (GPS corrected miles) or so. I've seen as low as the high 10's and a high of 16 once. Conservative driving will generally net me 13-14 mpg but in my short period of ownership I've put fewer "economy minded" tanks of fuel through than "lets see how much boost I make up this grade" tanks. At 8'-6" tall and roughly 8000#, my aerodynamics and weight are not much better than yours and the fact that I am running 35" MT's probably costs me a MPG by itself.

Even if the fuel economy increase isn't substantial, having an overdrive gear is really great because it lowers the noise level at cruising speeds, and if I find it necessary I can actually do 75 mph without hitting redline.

Out of curiosity, do you have the newer style glow plug controller in your '86?

[spencyg]

The wastegate in my case might be necessary because my turbine housing is 16cm driving a small 45mm inducer compressor wheel. It could easily overboost if enough fuel is available. This is something I'll just need to test. The turbo was designed to be run without a wastegate, but for a smaller (5.9L cummins with a lower maximum rpm) diesel. Testing will dictate the necessity for additional pressure control. The 6.9 now has head studs of course along with new head gaskets...I suspect running in the 15psi range wouldn't be a problem.

I guess I don't really know anything about your rig, but I get a consistent 12-14mpg currently with a C6 3 speed transmission and a normally aspirated diesel running oversized A/T's. I'm not sure why you are running the same basic MPG with a turbo and gear vendors. What is your laden weight? Gear Ratios? What is your cruise RPM at 60 MPH?

I run around 8900 lbs unloaded. Probably around 10k lbs loaded. 3.56 gears, and at 60 MPH (55 on the odometer, 60 on the GPS) I'm taching around 2200.

My glow plugs are spade style which I believe are the older style. They haven't given me any problems, and I just replaced them during the rebuild with new Motorcraft (non swelling) units from the dealer.

[rockbender]

Very cool - that turbo setup sounds great. With the old Banks setup, I'm only seeing 5-6PSI pulling a grade at 2500 RPM (out of OD). If you were making 5ish PSI just cruising along that should be a huge help I would think. Other than too much boost, I'm guessing the only other thing you'll have to watch for will be excessive EGT's at lower rpm's.

My E350 typically sits between 8200-8500# and has an SMB poptop (so not too much aero penalty there). I've got 4.10 gears which seem to balance pretty well with the 35" tires and GV. With the OD on, my RPM's are probably 150 less than yours or so... at 60 I think I'm probably just over 2000, and cruising at that RPM on flat ground I might only be seeing 1 PSI of boost. To get in the 14 mpg range I would be light footed when accelerating and keeping my speed at or under 55. When I bought the van I was fully expecting to see 15+ as the norm, so I'm a bit disappointed on that aspect; however in the big picture I don't put enough miles on per year for it to make a huge financial impact. One of these days I'll get the IP timing checked to make sure that is on, as well as pull the injectors and have them tested.

Looking forward to seeing the continued progress.
cheers!
josh

[spencyg]

RB, do you have a 6.9 or 7.3 IDI? There is def. something not quite right with your engine / drivetrain if you're only seeing 12 MPG on average. I seriously get that with my non-turbo 3 speed and am loaded heavier than you and undoubtedly have more frontal drag. I'd get some new injectors to start and see if that helps. I have actually been able to get over 15 MPG on occation when I run a consistent 40-45 MPH with a light load with my current setup. I never run over 60 MPH though...if I were to do that, my MPG would be down around 10.

I suspect I won't be running much more boost than you see during a cruise. The key is to just barely be in the boost so that the pumping losses are minimized (thus reducing BSFC down to that 0.34 level I referred to). I did some calcs awhile back and figured Boomer needs about 80hp to go down the road at 60 MPH. This requirement only changes as you change your load, or you're driving into the wind (or with the wind). 80hp is 80hp....the key is making 80hp efficiently. The highest power with the least fuel consumption (lowest BSFC) is right at max torque. Max torque of 360 ft lbs for a N/A 6.9L IDI hits around 1400 RPM, so the slower you can get the engine, the better.

HP=Tn/5252
=360 ft lbs * 1400 / 5252
=95hp

Without a turbo I make enough HP to sustain 60MPH at 1400 RPM. The key is to get down there for cruise (or at least, closer than I currently am), and then have the turbo boost available when the grade changes and more power is necessary to maintain the speed at that same RPM.

I'll bet with your setup you would have far better MPG and wouldn't notice issues offroad with a 3.56 gear set. I'm hoping for a sub-2000RPM cruise eventually. This is where you start seeing MPG increases.

[rockbender]

I've got the 6.9 (1984). Unfortuanately, as you know, you have to be fairly mindful to get the best economy out of these motors. What your right foot does is directly proportional to how much fuel you are dumping in. My lower average economy of 12.5ish is likely a function of shorter trips with more stop and go and a couple trips for work where my time was worth more than my employers money (who paid my fuel bill).

On a recent trip this summer where I was very conscious about trying to get good mileage, yet still not plug up traffic, I kept it right around or under 55 (more importantly was trying to keep the RPM's in the 1800-1900 range) and netted over 14 mpg. I was doing exactly what you were saying: holding a constant throttle opening and when a slight rise came in the road instead of the truck slowing down, it would start producing boost and maintain a fairly steady speed. The tank that I got 16+ on probably had an average speed of 45-50, so speed obviously plays a huge factor as well as keeping the RPM's low. I need to make a point of taking some more mellow slow speed trips, both for my own mental well being and to see what kind of mileage I can get. Unfortunately, my wife and toddler are usually more interested in getting to the destination that doodling down the road.

I think our biggest obstacle is not being able to lock up the TC on the C6. I think that would make a huge difference. Also, I've seen the max torque spec listed at 1400, but I've also seen it listed as 1800rpm for the 6.9 and 1600 for the 7.3. Regardless, it is pretty flat between 1400 and 1800 anyway, so if you could get cruising rpm's between 1600 and 1800 I agree that would be awesome. I don't think you're going to see the C6 cooperate much below 1600 RPM anyway. As far as gearing goes, I'm not sure if I would want much taller gears with the 35's as it would make 1st gear too high in my opinion. My off road ventures haven't been too knarly to date, so low range takes care of any of my needs. On top of that, both axles were recently regeared by the previous owner so I have no reason to dump money into axles that were just rebuilt. I just need to drive with a lighter right foot.

I always come back to my actual usage. Driving 4000 miles per year (which is probably more than I will actually put on) with a 2 MPG increase from 13 to 15 will save about $150 per year. Significant? Yes. Enough to justify spending a couple thousand on upgrades for increased economy? Probably not in my case for this vehicle.

My truck came with pretty good documentation from the previous owners, and from what I can tell I am likely on the original injectors at 190,000 miles. If that is the case, it is probably time to replace them and it would be silly for me not to spend $200 or so on a new set. Time to do some injector research! (and if you have recommendations, I'm all ears. Thanks!)

*edit to add: sorry for muddying up your thread with extraneous IDI diesel stuff. I'll try to keep it relevant or start my own thread!

[chasespeed]

Spence, couple things...

Do you know how tall it is from the crossmember to the shroud? Just wondering if a 4bt would fit. While I do like Cornbinder engines, lets face it, the IDI is not the most efficient engine. In the case of your truck, a healthy 4bt, would net you a performance, and fuel economy gain. Plus, you get options w/ non electronic overdrive transmissions. BUT, irrelevant.

As far as fuel economy... as you know, try to cruise at your peak. EGTs and boost are what you need to watch. the lower you can keep your EGTs, the better your mileage. If the turbo lights while cruising, my mileage goes down....

Either way, no 2 engines are the same. when I had my 7.3PSD S/D, no matter what I did, I couldnt get an avg MPG of better than 15.... just the way it was.. but, my OBS w/ the 7.3PSD was closer to 20 avg...

My 2 pennies...

Chase

[spencyg]

4BT's. Bah.

In my opinion, WAY overpriced and overhyped engines.

I can tell you that getting the IDI in there only provided 0.5" of clearance on each side of the doghouse hump, and only 4" of clearance with the FI pump removed. I think the 4BT would fit, but they aren't reliable when asked to put out more than 200 or so hp. The non-tbo 6.9 puts out 175hp. To convert the entire drivetrain over to GM (presumably your reference to a non-computerized OD transmission) would be kind of silly. I don't honestly believe a 4BT would provide enough of an efficiency gain to justify the amazing amount of time and money such a project would require, plus, up this way, 4BT's don't exist. I can buy a good 6.9 IDI ready to bolt in from 10 different sources at any given point in time. A 4BT would cost me 10x as much just to acquire (yes, I just bought a running 6.9 parts engine for $300, 4BT's start at 3k before shipping, totally beat). At the end of the day, the only true difference between the two engines would be the internal friction of 4 more cylinders on the 6.9 (and the associated longevity of spreading the power over more displacement), and direct vs. indirect injection. I'll take maybe 1 or 2 MPG less in fuel savings and an engine that will now last longer than the chassis its mounted in. Mind you, a 5.9 would probably be worth the effort, but getting it to fit would involve cutting torches. I'm a big fan of appropriate displacement for the appropriate vehicle. Weighing over 10k lbs loaded for a trip, being pushed by an engine smaller in displacement than that in a Jeep Wrangler isn't of interest to me. The Ford/International IDI's are built tough and built right. I have absolutely no qualms about running one in Boomer.

Thanks for the comments though.

[NorthernWoodsman]

4BT's. Bah.

In my opinion, WAY overpriced and overhyped engines.

I can tell you that getting the IDI in there only provided 0.5" of clearance on each side of the doghouse hump, and only 4" of clearance with the FI pump removed. I think the 4BT would fit, but they aren't reliable when asked to put out more than 200 or so hp. The non-tbo 6.9 puts out 175hp. To convert the entire drivetrain over to GM (presumably your reference to a non-computerized OD transmission) would be kind of silly. I don't honestly believe a 4BT would provide enough of an efficiency gain to justify the amazing amount of time and money such a project would require, plus, up this way, 4BT's don't exist. I can buy a good 6.9 IDI ready to bolt in from 10 different sources at any given point in time. A 4BT would cost me 10x as much just to acquire (yes, I just bought a running 6.9 parts engine for $300, 4BT's start at 3k before shipping, totally beat). At the end of the day, the only true difference between the two engines would be the internal friction of 4 more cylinders on the 6.9 (and the associated longevity of spreading the power over more displacement), and direct vs. indirect injection. I'll take maybe 1 or 2 MPG less in fuel savings and an engine that will now last longer than the chassis its mounted in. Mind you, a 5.9 would probably be worth the effort, but it would never fit. I'm a bit fan of appropriate displacement for the appropriate vehicle. Weighing over 10k lbs loaded for a trip, being pushed by an engine smaller in displacement than that in a Jeep Wrangler, isn't of interest. The Ford/International IDI's are built tough and built right. I have absolutely no qualms about running one in Boomer, and I also bought one for the boat.

Thanks for the comments though.

From what I've read, as I'm not an authority nor really knowledgable about this sort of thing at all, but as I said I have read that people can and do put the 5.9 Cummins in Ford vans. Case in point:

http://roswell.craigslist.org/rvs/2575295592.html

I assume it's a 5.9 even though it doesn't state that.

[spencyg]

I too have heard of people doing a 6BT swap into the earlier Econoline chassis. Haven't personally seen one, and I wouldn't want to try. The 6.9 was enough of a beast to get out and back in...I shudder to even think. Cummins makes a hell of a motor, don't get me wrong. I just don't mind the International one bit. They need a few tweaks (which I've done) to make them what they really can be, but once those are done, I see no reason to swap to something else. I'm also getting old, am sore all the time, and lack the ambition I once had.

And, I've been accused of being a scrooge.

So it goes.

[NorthernWoodsman]

I too have heard of people doing a 6BT swap into the earlier Econoline chassis. Haven't personally seen one, and I wouldn't want to try. The 6.9 was enough of a beast to get out and back in...I shudder to even think. Cummins makes a hell of a motor, don't get me wrong. I just don't mind the International one bit. They need a few tweaks (which I've done) to make them what they really can be, but once those are done, I see no reason to swap to something else. I'm also getting old, am sore all the time, and lack the ambition I once had.

And, I've been accused of being a scrooge.

So it goes.

No, I hear you man. I wouldn't do the swap either unless you were just crazy about Cummins and couldn't have any other....and felt like going through that sort of hassle. I have heard really great things about the 6.9 and 7.3's for along time so, like you, I wouldn't see any reason to change what was already there and working just fine.

By the way, I LOVE this build. Boomer is by far one of my favorite beasts on this entire forum. Functional and sharp looking to boot.

[chasespeed]

As I said, I have no issues with the IDIs, had one(7.3 in a 89 crew), loved it... lasted forever, only problem I had, was a lift pump, then, had the injection pump, and injectors rebuilt right after(thought it was a good time to do so), 160k or so....

I was just curious about space, since, I am LOOKING at a quadravan, and HAPPEN to know where there is a bread van, that was stripped of its body, and has a 4bt w/ a 400 trans behind it... I wouldnt need to go over 200hp... I would LOVE to stick my VERY HEALTHY 6BTA in a van, and get 20mpg... but, its just too freaking long... Just idle speculation is all....

Wife is pregnant(with our 3rd)... was thinking that would be ideal... I wasnt implying YOU swap your engine, sorry if I came off that way... I wouldnt even HINT at it after all that work.

Boomer's build was one of the first I read here(if not the first), and, IIRC, it was the thread that LEAD me to the portal, back , the first time I was looking for info on 4wd vans....

Chase

[spencyg]

Man...even if you don't have any immediate plans for it, you should buy up that 4BT....if nothing else, it would be a great investment! Mind you, as I've said I wouldn't think of putting one in Boomer, but if I had one lying around, I'd be shopping for a sweet old bronco or something along those lines to put it in.

After you brought up it, I did a little searching and found a guy who put a 6BT into a G van on youtube. WAY worse scenario than the Econoline as far as room is concerned. Needless to say the guy chopped the hell out of the floor behind the firewall, new doghouse, etc, but it all worked in the end. I'd never do it, but it was inspirational nonetheless.

Congratulations on your 3rd...I think :) I can tell you Boomer wouldn't work at all with 3 kids. We have a 2nd on the way, and I'm contemplating some serious interior alterations as a result.

We live close enough to each other that there is no reason we shouldn't be meeting up for a beer at some point.

[chasespeed]

Congrats to you too sir!

Absolutely... actually, until a little over a week ago, I was working on a weeklong trip with the wife, up the great north woods, trying to keep the rig off as many paved roads as possible. But, that kind of went south for now.......

There is a 79 quadravan locally, that wont sell(guy has been trying for almost 2 years), body is SHOT... but, the frame and underside is actually SOLID. Its only a D44(8 lugger though) Got to talking with my electrician buddy, and we were tossing around the 4bt... the quadravan is divorced t-case... so... thinking, it might make a SWEET long term project, and be a HELLUVA lot easier with the body off(body is shot and needs to be replaced anyway).... I would go with a more conventional conversion van(rear bed/bench, and 4 captains chairs).... anyway, at the moment, just the idle out load thoughts of some guy....

Looking like the Astro is more in the budget for a start at this point....

Anyway, Boomer is awesome, and, MY personal favorite, is the winch bumper.... simple, effective, clean, and outstanding execution....... perfect...

Chase

[spencyg]

I think most Quadravans came with the 1 Ton Dana 44. Mine certainly does. For the amount of 4WD usage I get involved with, the 44 is fine. I would like to upgrade the brakes a bit more, but frankly most of that will probably be in the form of a hydroboost system. I guess if I was running 35"+ tires, the 44 would start sketching me out, but again, Boomer is slow, isn't a trail runner, and is generally babied. The 44 will hold up fine for anything other than blatant abuse.

As far as economical running is concerned, the Astro base vehicle is an excellent choice. Anything large is always going to cost more to drive down the road...we always think about fuel costs whenever we're contemplating taking Boomer anywhere. Right now it would cost around $150 to fill the tanks, and those tanks would take us a little over 500 miles before they needed to be completely filled again. $0.30/mi just for fuel adds up quick.

[random]

I don't think you'll have any issues with the 44. I had the TTB 44 in my old F250 with a 6.9. That truck was badly beaten for 1.2 million miles with nothing but ball joints, brakes and wheel bearings replaced.

When I went from the C6 to the ZF5 I picked up 8mpg max, 4mpg with average driving. I can't imagine you'd want to do this to Boomer, but it is food for thought. Another thing I've found to pick up mileage with these motors is a large, free flowing exhaust. That was good for 1-2mpg in my old truck, haven't done it yet to the new one. Dynomax makes a 4" kit I've heard good things about. As was said though, one of the biggest fuel savers is mounted at the end of your right leg.

[spencyg]

Wow. I had a hunch the C6 wasn't helping mileage any, but for it to account for up to 50% of my MPG losses would be troubling. Unfortunately you hit the nail on the head though..I can't imagine converting Boomer to a ZF 5 speed either. There is barely enough room in the footwell currently for a brake and gas pedal...no idea where a clutch pedal would go! Plus, I'm lazy and don't really like shifting manually. I think the biggest issue is no torque converter lockup options. A buddy of mine keeps pushing to do an E4OD conversion, but those have their own host of problems.

Boomer's current exhaust is 2" LH and RH banks merging into a single 2.5". That is all getting ripped out in the spring when I put the turbo on...I was thinking 4" from the turbo back, with 2.25" pipes merging to the turbo exhaust turbine collector. I'd love to see the turbo bump me up to an average of 14-15 MPG, but that might be a bit much to expect.

So during the engine rebuild I tore apart the injectors, cleaned them up, and thought I could build a relatively simple pop tester to calibrate them before installation. Well, last night I finished up the pop tester and it didn't work worth beans. My TIG welder isn't operational at the moment so all I had to weld with for the high pressure fitting connections (~2000 psi) was the MIG. Well...MIG welding is great for bumpers, brackets, and other "rough" stuff, but don't use it to try and make a hermetic seal on anything. I've previously learned this when modifying oil pans but apparently my memory isn't good. After being repeatedly doused with diesel, I gave up and ordered a set of remanufactured injectors this morning. I'll get back to that pop tester once the TIG is online again, but for now with winter starting to rear its ugly head, I need to swallow the pride and just get Boomer put back together. Sitting all winter without being buttoned up would be worse than bad.

Hoping to get a bit more wrenching in this evening...

[chasespeed]

I agree on a E4OD, or a 4R100(modern version). Based off the C6, tough, and full lock-up with O/D. I think the E4 is a little less electronics dependent, though I am not sure...

Chase

[spencyg]

It will undoubtedly come to a E4OD swap eventually, but I have a few other projects to get to before we reach that point (not the least of which is getting the van running down the road again!). I suspect I won't do anything about the transmission until it starts giving me trouble (which could be sooner than later).

I was able to push through the effects of a nasty cold last night (to my wife's shagrin) and get some driveway work done before the rain started falling. The new vacuum reservoir is installed (last one was toast, and I have only just realized that I've probably never had power brakes since I've owned Boomer, and the transmission shift modulator has probably not been working either). I also did a rocker arm swap on the 6.9, upgrading to the later style which is clearly far superior in design and implementation. I also got the starter installed. Just got a call from the local auto parts supplier and a few gaskets I've ordered have arrived, rebuilt injectors come on Monday. I suspect I'll get it to at least run enough to verify no leaks next week. My GOD am I looking forward to having Boomer back among the "operational", even if only for the ease of moving it out of the way of my primary shop door!

[random]

Wow. I had a hunch the C6 wasn't helping mileage any, but for it to account for up to 50% of my MPG losses would be troubling. Unfortunately you hit the nail on the head though..I can't imagine converting Boomer to a ZF 5 speed either. There is barely enough room in the footwell currently for a brake and gas pedal...no idea where a clutch pedal would go! Plus, I'm lazy and don't really like shifting manually. I think the biggest issue is no torque converter lockup options. A buddy of mine keeps pushing to do an E4OD conversion, but those have their own host of problems.

Yeah, honestly, I'd rather have an auto too. The ZF5 was in the 4wd donor, so it got used. I do like the reliability and the ability to clutch start the truck, though.

I think an e4od would probably help you allot. The lockup converter and the overdrive should drop your RPMs allot. I've found my truck gets the best mileage right around 1800 RPMs.

[VANMAN]

Great build site......

I have a 1990 E350 7.3 Diesel with an E40D....it had a Dana 44HD up front Quigley build....3.55 gears.....I routinely got 15-16 around town and 18 on the highway with
33" tires....with 235/85R16 tires I had gotten into the low 20's.

I actually think it was geared too tall with 3.55 and 33" tires (effective ratio somewhere around 3.23)

I recently swapped in a Dana 60 front/ARB's frt and rear/Chrome moly axles/4:10 gears and it performs much better.....I really don't think mileage has changed much because it was geared too tall before....lugging it ....I routinely turned off the OD

I think 12-14 with the 6.9 doesn't sound quite right....

I also about 10 years ago put on a banks non-waste gated turbo up high...with banks install kit....it is tight but does fit no problem....took me 2-3 days in driveway to get it on...with little trips to parts store for minor items....helped alot IDI are good engines but DOGS without the turbo.....I max out at 11 lbs. boost.....much better now....EGT gauge critical when pushing these engines with or without turbo (burnt valves caused by high egt-i.e. going uphill with billowing black clouds of smoke)

Another point for fun.....my van had slider door...which I always hated ( took me 10 years to figure out to leave a window open when shutting slider to reduce pressure - which it says to do in the owners manual I didn't read)

I just recently converted to bi-fold doors/had slider groove filled and had a factory panel window installed behind driver window...yes it can be done $$$

I plan on installing a 6BTA 12 valve cummins and manual transmission (NV5600) with GV OD

Ford did put 300 6 cylinders and manual 4 speeds in the old body style ford van....I recently scored a clutch pedal assembly from one at a pick and pull so it will fit....in place of 2 pedal auto pedal

It sucks having OCD!!

[VANMAN]

Another point....the Dana 44 worked fine no problem whatsoever and I 4 wheeled alot with it......I swapped the Dana 60 due to ARB/4:10 install and in anticipation of putting a stronger 350-400 HP cummins....My dana 44 is for sale and posted in for sale blog with 4 link .......actually a pretty easy install......

[spencyg]

I'm not too concerned about the Dana 44 except for the weight loading of the axles in general. As I think I've said before, I've got the Dana 44 HD up front, and a Dana 61 out back. Both are rated per the door sticker at 6250 GVWR. I currently roll around 10k lbs fully loaded, fueled, and watered up. I suspect that might creep up a bit more as I continue modifying things...hopefully I'll never be above 11k lbs. I know the GVWR ratings provide for some safety margin, but I still would like to see some 7200 lbs axles in there...Dana 60 up front and a 70 in the rear. I won't be making any modifications in this department until failures dictate the need, but when the time comes, I'll certainly be upgrading. Both the front and rear axles are full floating, so "failure" won't be catastrophic, just inconvenient, and I suspect I'll be given plenty of fair warning before any real issues start cropping up.

The axle ratios currently are 3.55 with 34" tall tires and the 3 speed. I would LOVE to have another gear and can't imagine running the rig down the road efficiently with gears any shorter. The turbo can eventually make up for the lagging which might occur in a higher gear :)

We got 6 inches of snow this weekend and Boomer is covered. I'm hoping the sun and wind today do their work and I can start right in on things tomorrow evening. Tonight, we barricade ourselves inside in hopes of keeping all the little goblins and witches running around the neighborhood at bay. Its the only night of the year I turn even the driveway safety light off...STAY AWAY!!!

[chasespeed]

Only 6? Wow... lucky... glad to here you're warm and safe... You should come down here... Halloween is pretty much cancelled.... and my kids are NOT happy...

Stay warm and safe...

Chase

[spencyg]

Brrrrrr.

That was some cold driveway wrenching last night.

Completed:
-Engine fully secured to the chassis
-Oil cooler secured
-Cooling elbow secured
-Lift Pump secured
-Torque Conveter secured
-Exhaust secured

My frozen feet and sore back got the best of me around 12:15am...27 degrees on the thermometer.

Thursday evening I'm hoping to get the injectors and pump installed, along with the rest of the fuel system and perform a test run up to temp to make sure I don't have any leaks.

[spencyg]

Getting closer, but still no start.

I was able to get the injectors installed and start the oil priming process with a gravity feed oil hopper T'd into the upper oil galley. I got the oil dipstick tube installed (which involved modification because it was supposed to be installed BEFORE the engine went in). I also pulled the transmission cooler lines which were crusty and possibly starting to leak. I'll be replacing them with new and also adding a trans temperature gage sensor. I was really hoping to have the IP all mounted last night as well, but apparently I don't own a 5/16" 12PT socket, so I was SOL. I'll pick up a socket tonight and hopefully find time this weekend to get the pump installed. I did get the IP cleaned up and *might* have turned up the fuel screw a little bit :ylsmoke:

Pyrometer, Trans Temp, and Boost gauges arrived this week, and I was able to get the turbo apart last night as well to make sure everything looks good. I'll get Boomer assembled and running without it at first, but there will be a turbo install in April before next season begins.

Slow going, but at least there is forward progress.

[spencyg]

Man, this is taking forever to put back together. I usually start every shop night with a mental list of what I hope to accomplish. The list is seldom realistic, but still I try.

The list last night included the following:
-Install FI pump
-Install fuel filter assembly
-Install oil filler neck
-Re-wire aux. light solenoids into a new sealed box behind one of the starting batteries
-Install new transmission cooler lines

What actually got done (while sitting/standing in the driveway until 12:45am)
-Install FI pump
-Install fuel filter assembly
-Install filler neck
-Finish installing the oil dipstick tube (was missing a bracket which needed to be blasted and painted)

Probably won't get another chance to work on Boomer this week because of impending weather. At least now the engine is officially buttoned up, even if I'm probably not going to do a test run for another week (at least).

[spencyg]

Closer still.

Last night I got the transmission cooler lines finished as well as installing the new transmission temperature sensor in the hot line. I also replaced a bunch of vacuum hoses, heater hoses, and sorted a bunch of dangling wiring. Once I got chilled enough from working in the driveway, I came inside to set up the new sealed box for the aux. lighting relays and breaker. I ended up using a gray PVC Carlson box from that big orange home improvement store meant for electrical junctions. It has a sealed lid and lots of space for mounting inside. I machined down some Liquidtight fittings to install in the box, and then glued them in with PVC solvent glue. The whole thing is going to work great, and I'll probably duplicate this type of enclosure elsewhere as necessary. Some of the work I've done along the way thoughout this project has been done quickly to get back on the road. Those quick fixes aren't going to maintain their reliability, so you'll be seeing me revisiting some old projects for "correctness" updates as necessary. I'm hoping to post a bunch of pics of the current progress tonight.

I was hoping for an engine run-off this week, but have been talked out of running the engine without the cooling system installed (I was just going to tape a garden hose into the water pump intake. My reasoning was that if any leaks show up, I'll be able to get to them easier before the radiator is installed. In truth, with the radiator installed I'll still be able to get to everything, so I'll put Boomer together to the point where it is a sealed and working system before doing an engine test. This constant delay is killing me!! I want to hear it run again!!!!!

Pics tonight.

[spencyg]

A few pictures. I'm just not one of those guys that can pause every 10 minutes to take a picture of my progress, though I certainly appreciate those who take the time to do it. I get started on something and it tends to be my primary focus until its done. Only afterward I think "GAH!! Why didn't I take a few pictures"

The stupid diesel pop tester FAIL. I know what I need to do to un-fail this project, but for now, it sits on the bench.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/BoomerPics11-11013.jpg

Re-installation of the engine...alignment of engine mounts. Don't ask. I know how many things are wrong with this picture.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/BoomerPics11-11005.jpg

Front end all painted up, engine install in progress. 60 degree early November day. Amazing.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/BoomerPics11-11009.jpg

Terrible picture of the gravity feed oil hopper for priming the oil system. Worked slick.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/BoomerPics11-11006.jpg

The new turbo after a run through the blast cabinet.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/BoomerPics11-11012.jpg

Carlson electrical enclosure with liquid-tight fittings machined and glued. Going to be super clean.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/BoomerPics11-11011.jpg

[sdski]

The stupid diesel pop tester FAIL. I know what I need to do to un-fail this project, but for now, it sits on the bench.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj270/spencyg/Boomer%20Updates/BoomerPics11-11013.jpg

You've got me totally curious, what is this thing?

The build is looking awesome, I use to not be a big fan of the earlier Fords but your rig is looking nice. Good work and good luck!

[spencyg]

You've got me totally curious, what is this thing?


It is a diesel injector tester. Basically a hydraulic pump with an external reservoir connected to a pressure gauge and an injector fitting. You thread the injector onto the line to secure, top off the reservoir with diesel, and pump away. The pump is supposed to pressurize the injector line up to the pressure which the injector will "pop". The goal is to adjust each injector so they pop at exactly the same pressure. This gives you a very even ignition timing across all cylinders for maximum efficiency and power. The other thing this tool is good for is checking the spray pattern of the injector to make sure it is nice and clean.

The problem was that I followed an online design using a small bottle jack as the primary hydraulic power source. It involved a whole lot of "bodging" which inevitably leads to issues. I need to order a dedicated manual hydraulic pump. Northern Tool makes a great one for under $75 which I should have purchased off the bat. Next spring when I'm doing the turbo and have the engine partially apart again, I'll redo the tester with the revised pump so I can really tune the injectors in.

[a.mus.ed]

glad to see you updating this thread again! every time i pass an old conversion van i think of boomer and check my wallet.

[spencyg]

It's Alive!!! Sorta...

I finished up the install of all the accessories, loomed the rest of my wiring, sandblasted and painted a few more brackets, and buttoned up the front of the motor and engine bay last night. At the end of the wrenching session I installed the batteries and all the lights and everything came on. So its alive, but no test start yet.

I still have to install the radiator and transmission cooler before I can crank it over. I suspect it will happen this weekend if the weather is any good.

Man..I'm getting excited.

There will be video.

[rockbender]

that is AWESOME news! I hope you have an enjoyable and productive turkey day - we're all anxiously awaiting the re-awakening of Boomer!

[spencyg]

Man...this last little bit of assembly is taking me forever to accomplish!! I've been sidetracked the last week between the Thanksgiving holiday, machinery upgrades in the shop, and a basement renovation project. Picking up a new-to-me CNC mill tomorrow afternoon so I can get back to the capabilities I enjoyed a few years ago in my old shop. If I get home from picking up the mill in good enough time, I'm going to try and snag my buddy to help me heft the radiator into place. Once that is in, I'm within an hour of a test run. Hoping boomer will roar to life this weekend. We shall see.

[random]

glad to see you updating this thread again! every time i pass an old conversion van i think of boomer and check my wallet.
Haha, glad I'm not the only one!

Super stoked to see Boomer coming back together!

[offroadcruiser]

Man...this last little bit of assembly is taking me forever to accomplish!! .... I'm going to try and snag my buddy to help me heft the radiator into place. Once that is in, I'm within an hour of a test run. Hoping boomer will roar to life this weekend. We shall see.

I have installed the 7.3 twice into the E350 camper, the first time I had my then 10 year old son help me put the bolts in while I held the rad but the second time I was by myself and used the engine hoist to keep the rad steady, those rads are HEAVY.

It now takes me 3 full 10 -12 hour days to re and re the 7.3 IDI into the E350 but like you I also found rust issues that took even longer.

Keep at it but watch your back.
Carl

[Agamennon2000]

Wonderful thread. I am new here and just wondering how the motor repair went?

[FoMoCoMarc]

Awesome thread, some good fixes in here. Im from southern Maine too, however, I am in Wyoming currently. Will be back in July, Driving this back http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/73775-1979-F350-4x4-Camper :sombrero:

[JCMatthews]

Bump to find out if boomer roared to life.

[rockbender]

Another bump to see if Boomer is alive?! I'm looking to install new injectors in my 6.9 IDI soon and am looking for some inspiration.

Hope all is well with the fam and that boomer hasn't been neglected to much for toys that float in water :)

[skot433]

Awesome build,,,, I am very envious, I wish I had all the knowledge AND tools you've got...

I need to design and install a electrical system in my van, not even sure where to start, as of now, the system is totally stock has two batteries (one way back at the rear bumper)

Any links or sites that have info would be very much appreciated...

keep up the great build, I'm subscribing...