Front lockers

[lionsbreath]

Anyone know if you can mod. the OEM elc. rear locker to work on the front diff.?
If not any other selectable lockers fort the fron of a toco besides ARB :coffee:

[flyingwil]

I think Lick right is your only other option to ARB. The Pre '01s can use the Aussie locker.

$275 at http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html

Be aware that most owners that have the lock right complain about some racheting noise and wheel hop on the highway, so your best bet might be the ARB.

Peter Parks has an excellent write up on the install of the ARB RD-90 HERE (http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/Front%20ARB/frontarb.htm).

WIL

[lionsbreath]

thanks or the info

[Scott Brady]

The rear and front axles are a different size (7.5 and 8" ring gear respectively).

The ARB takes the cake IMO. Full steering control or full spool, your choice.

I think another good option for the front is the TruTrac limted slip.

I would never recommend installing a full time locker in a street driven vehicle. (been there)

[lionsbreath]

But do the true tracs' drag any while on road and how is steering off road in four high One of my friends has lunch boxlockers frontand rear and they click and pop all the time but then again he drive sorta ruff. I read that the ARBs' o-rings tend to leak with time We need some one to make a good eletric locker or Ox style locke for the front.

[erin]

Recently installed tru-tracs front and rear in my 2004 Tacoma. 2wd steering is unnoticable, slightly heavy in 4wd. So far I am very pleased with the added traction they give. I will have to see how tricky it is to modulate the brakes when I lift one wheel and have to use the clutch, but thats half the fun with manual trannys.

[ShottsCruisers]

But do the true tracs' drag any while on road and how is steering off road in four high One of my friends has lunch boxlockers frontand rear and they click and pop all the time but then again he drive sorta ruff. I read that the ARBs' o-rings tend to leak with time We need some one to make a good eletric locker or Ox style locke for the front.

2 years with dual ARB's on the UZJ100. No leaks or problems. Well, I had to tighten the bolt on the air compressor. It was leaking because it vibrated loose over time. I'm with Scott. It's the way to go!

[BajaTaco]

I agree on the ARB. Selectable is best for this application as far as I'm concerned. (unless your Taco is a trail rig only). There is no other selectable locker for the Tacoma front diff as far as I know.

[p1michaud]

Recently installed tru-tracs front and rear in my 2004 Tacoma. 2wd steering is unnoticable, slightly heavy in 4wd. So far I am very pleased with the added traction they give. I will have to see how tricky it is to modulate the brakes when I lift one wheel and have to use the clutch, but thats half the fun with manual trannys.

erin,
Do you happen to know the True Track part number for the front? I'm looking at the Tacoma front, but mine is a 1999.

[erin]

From what I know the IFS front end is the same since the mid 90's-2004, not sure exactly. When I asked Trac tec, they said it was not available for my year but when I had the shop that did the install, he said they were all the same, only the rears had changed more recently. Hope this helps, if the numbers are on my invoice, I will post those later. ;)

[p1michaud]

Hi folks,

Here is my dilemma, I wan a front locker for the Tacoma but am torn between ARB and True Track. I know that most people here prefer the ARB unit but I feel that the True Track may be a great combo especially when combined with the selectable rear locker. Here is some additional information that should be factored into the thought process:

I’ve got one selectable locker via the E-locked rear.
The truck is used for hunting, fishing and camping and it is my DD.
I encounter snow packed and icy roads regularly during the winter months. (This concerns me the most since a few have mentioned that this lead to problems during the winter driving season).
Cost is important (I’d like to take the difference in price and put it towards an ExtremeAire compressor).
I already have a spare front diff that I can use to install the locker in so that down time will be minimized and I have spare parts if needed.
Officially there are no True Tracks listed that will work for the Toyota 7.5” front diff after 1995 (refer to attached .pdf file) but some people have successfully installed them in their Tacoma front diff (namely erin on this board). There may be an issue with the bearings provided with the True Track that would cause an issue with ADD equipped trucks, more on this below.
It seems that the True Track is causing the front drive shaft together to turn constantly causing some drive line vibrations.
According to what I have read, most people who have a front ARB locker don’t use it that often. It’s more of a peace of mind and safety mod.


True Track information
I did have some difficulty finding information on the True Track so to help out other members here are a few useful links:

Correct p/n for the Toyota 7.5" 27 spline front diff is 911A342 but it is for manual hub applications. Retail is in the $360 range. See here (http://www.detroitlocker.com/Dealers.htm) for dealers:

Another point of interest from this (http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27031) post (once you neglect all the banter and get to the good stuff) they say that the True Track may cause problems with and ADD equipped Tacoma due to the bearing design. To sum part of the discussion up: “…once the new bearing is used, it will be a one part fits all for both ADD and non ADD, so effectively there would be ONE new part number for the TrueTrac LSD.…”

I was able to find one TrueTrack review here (http://www.4x4review.com/products/drive_train/truetrac.asp).

Erin and I have been discussing True Tracks via PM. Erin has successfully installed front and rear True Tracks on his 2004 Tacoma with ADD. Here is some of the info that was shared:
“… I'm very pleased with their performance both on/off road. They don't require tons of wheel slip before they work which was what I was after. Brake modulation works very well when you get a wheel in the air, though a bit tricky with a manual trans.

Be advised during wet/icy conditions, you must be careful how you drive through corners, or you end up going back towards where you came from. They transfer torque very efficiently…

…As far as the "noise", it really is a vibration from the front driveline predominantly, caused I think by the True trac being a full replacement carrier, which I believe is now turning the ADD side and spinning the front driveshaft full time, plus the added revs from the 4.88 gears, make the vibration apparent where as before it was not. It is not a bad vibe, but you can feel it nonetheless, more like a wheel that needs balancing, more apparent at some speeds then others.”

So I’d like to hear your thoughts and comments. Although after writing this down, I may have persuaded myself to go the ARB route (less issues & unknowns). I feel the discussion would be useful though.
Cheer :beer:,
P

Side note:
My spare front diff has 4.30 gears vs. my current 4.10. If you know anyone who has re-geared and had some 4.30 Toyota E-locker gears sitting around gathering dust, let me know!

[DaveInDenver]

So I’d like to hear your thoughts and comments. Although after writing this down, I may have persuaded myself to go the ARB route (less issues & unknowns). I feel the discussion would be useful though.
Cheer :beer:,

Since you asked, of all the locked front end trucks I've had the chance to drive, open or selectable are the only ways to go. Trucks with any sort of auto locker in the front are next to impossible to maneuver in rocks and stuff. If the choice was between ARB or True Trac, I say hands down ARB. If it's a money question, I would leave the front open and spend the money elsewhere instead of a non-selectable locker in the front. Just my $0.02.

[BajaTaco]

I agree with Dave, especially since you have a winch. I think the item #3 that you cited would be a big detractor where you live. I also believe you have a manual trans (no?) and doing the brake pedal thing isn't so fun or reliable - especially if you are in a situation that is requiring you to be locked at both ends (often precarious where flopping or sliding is concerned). If the added cost is a serious concern, try to hold out for a private-party sale to get the cost down a little bit (one just sold on yotatech recently).

[Nullifier]

Get the ARB unit and be done with it. You will have all the verstility that you need whenever you need it. I just did front and rear arb's in my taco. Although I'm still getting used to them Last weekend I got called on a recovery mission. I ended up using them both just to get out to where my buddies had found them selves hopelessy stuck. I was the smallest of three rigs called out to help. The other 2 got them selves stuck trying to get to each other. When I got there I flipped on the rear locker got to jeep 1 pulled him out he left. Got to jeep 2 pulled him out he left. Almost got stuck getting to jeep 3 but turned on the front locker and pushed right on through.

gears and lockers $1850
air compressor sytem $600
pulling out 3 jeeps on 35-40"boggers with a taco on 31's...Priceless

[Scott Brady]

If you spend a lot of time in snow and ice, I would avoid the tru-trac.

Other than that, I really like them, especially on a vehicle with traction control.

[erin]

I would definitely agree with Scott on this. I have yet to drive in any snow with them, but as I have said before, they can be tricky when it's wet, even on pavement. Even dry pavement, get on the gas thru a corner, and the inside tire is breaking loose almost immeadiately. The torwue bias on them compared to other limited slips is much greater, I think they are 3:1, where most are around 2:1.

[crawler#976]

ARB

Do it once, do it right. My experiance with front lockers is heavily biased towards hard core crawlin', but is tempered by driving a fully locked rig over 45,000 miles of combined street and trail use. It is currently spooled front and rear.

One of the biggest regrets I have is how much money I spent on two broken Detroits, and the current front spool in the BPOS trail rig. An ARB is the best solution for a front locker. Believe it or not, I could have payed for front and rear ARB's in just the cost savings in tires alone over a 4 year period. Rear spools EAT tires, front lockers aren't as much of a factor in tire wear.

One thing I will add is that a spooled front end, and no matter how you look at it, an ARB is a spool when engaged, will dramatically decrease turning radius, and increase steering effort 10 fold. It is very hard on stock steering compontents, and I found i need to change out power steering fluid on an annual basis. I have seen situations when an ARB will not disengage due to being bound up, so throwing the switch may not offer relief. And there may be situations where you REALLY don't want to be unlocked.

You mention snow and a front locker. In ice they suck, in deep snow they rock. I'm kinda wierd - I prefer to drive my spooled truck in crappy snow/ice conditions over the Taco, but then again, I'm very familiar with it's quirks.

Mark

[Redback]

Have you tried to call TJM about their new Pro locker, it's made by Jack McNamara for TJM, here JMac make a locker for the Prado and i'm fairly sure the Prado has the same running gear as the Tacoma.

The Prado
http://prado.toyota.com.au/TWR/content/static/8291.jpg

Baz.

[p1michaud]

Thanks for all the replies. My reasoning for this post was two fold. First, it was a bit of a challenge to find as much relevant information (i.e. Tacoma specific) for the True Track so I figured the information may help other members who are considering this option. The second was to get some feedback from people who have either locker in their Tacoma.

Cheer :beer:,
P


If it's a money question, I would leave the front open and spend the money elsewhere instead of a non-selectable locker in the front.

Great point, but you know how it is, I want it now! :violent-smiley-031:


I agree with Dave, especially since you have a winch. I think the item #3 that you cited would be a big detractor where you live. I also believe you have a manual trans (no?) and doing the brake pedal thing isn't so fun or reliable - especially if you are in a situation that is requiring you to be locked at both ends (often precarious where flopping or sliding is concerned). If the added cost is a serious concern, try to hold out for a private-party sale to get the cost down a little bit (one just sold on yotatech recently).

I do have a winch and as I mentioned the winter driving was a major concern as well as potential bearing issues as outlined in the TTORA thread I linked to in my previous post. The brake, pedal and clutch trick is indeed a challenge!


Get the ARB unit and be done with it. You will have all the verstility that you need whenever you need it.

Agreed, I have pretty much convinced myself to go the ARB route by the time I was done writing my previous post. Good work on the successful recoveries.


If you spend a lot of time in snow and ice, I would avoid the tru-trac. Other than that, I really like them, especially on a vehicle with traction control.

Winter driving on snow and ice is just a fact of life here so you can’t avoid it unless you stay home! That would be nice.


I would definitely agree with Scott on this. I have yet to drive in any snow with them, but as I have said before, they can be tricky when it's wet, even on pavement. Even dry pavement, get on the gas thru a corner, and the inside tire is breaking loose almost immeadiately. The torwue bias on them compared to other limited slips is much greater, I think they are 3:1, where most are around 2:1.

Erin, thanks again for answering all my questions. I appreciate your feedback. Real world experience is what I was looking for.


ARB

Do it once, do it right.

:iagree:
I could not agree more. I’ve been down that route with my suspension set up rev 3 up front and rev. 4 at the back and still not done!


Have you tried to call TJM about their new Pro locker, it's made by Jack McNamara for TJM, here JMac make a locker for the Prado and i'm fairly sure the Prado has the same running gear as the Tacoma.

I have not tried to contact TJM about their Pro-locker. I’m going to stick with ARB because they have been tried and tested. I’m not saying that TJM makes inferior products. In fact I have one of their front bumpers and really like it.

[Brian894x4]

In front of my rig, I've run a TrueTrac, a Lockrite and now an ARB.

With the Truetrac, my take on it was that it was better than nothing, probably better than most limited slips, but I always felt like it was never engaging when I wanted it to and it was when I didn't. For example, when I was stuck in snow, I could never seem to get it to work, but when I was driving on ice, I might as well have spools front and rear, which was pretty dangerous. Sent to me to the ditch one time.

I like to drive around with the hubs locked in 4WD on gravel roads for safety reasons. The steering was heavier and noticable, but not bad.

With the Lockrite, it literally was spools front and rear most of the time and I didn't even attempt to drive in ice and snow. I absolutely hated how it drove in 4WD. The steering was very heavy and unpredictable. After almost driving off a cliff, because I couldn't get the steering to turn fast enough, I said screw it and went with an ARB.

It was spendy as heck and yes, I hardly use it, but I haven't looked back since. I wish I would have done it in the first place. I wouldn't go any other way up front, except if an ARB wasn't in my budget, I'd probably leave the front open and stock.

[Redback]

Thanks for all the replies. My reasoning for this post was two fold. First, it was a bit of a challenge to find as much relevant information (i.e. Tacoma specific) for the True Track so I figured the information may help other members who are considering this option. The second was to get some feedback from people who have either locker in their Tacoma.

Cheer :beer:,
P



Great point, but you know how it is, I want it now! :violent-smiley-031:



I do have a winch and as I mentioned the winter driving was a major concern as well as potential bearing issues as outlined in the TTORA thread I linked to in my previous post. The brake, pedal and clutch trick is indeed a challenge!



Agreed, I have pretty much convinced myself to go the ARB route by the time I was done writing my previous post. Good work on the successful recoveries.



Winter driving on snow and ice is just a fact of life here so you can’t avoid it unless you stay home! That would be nice.



Erin, thanks again for answering all my questions. I appreciate your feedback. Real world experience is what I was looking for.



:iagree:
I could not agree more. I’ve been down that route with my suspension set up rev 3 up front and rev. 4 at the back and still not done!



I have not tried to contact TJM about their Pro-locker. I’m going to stick with ARB because they have been tried and tested. I’m not saying that TJM makes inferior products. In fact I have one of their front bumpers and really like it.


There's an old saying "when your on a good thing, stick to it"

Baz.

[p1michaud]

Officially there is no TrueTrack listed that will work for the Toyota 7.5” front diff after 1995 (refer to attached .pdf file) but some people have successfully installed them in their Tacoma front diff (namely erin on this board). There may be an issue with the bearings provided with the True Track that would cause an issue with ADD equipped trucks, more on this below. It seems that the True Track is causing the front drive shaft together to turn constantly causing some drive line vibrations.

I've also been following this TrueTrack (http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42037) thread on TTORA where TrueTrack provided this guys with a prototype locker. It looks like he had some issues. Another good reason to go with ARB. Tried and tested technology!
Cheers :beer:,
P