BX M101 lid & tent mods

[BajaXplorer]

Thought I would add a thread for my M101. Just completed the lid and roof tent addition to the trailer. Actually I haven't settled on type of latching mechanism to use, but lid is complete otherwise. My thanks to PCRover for many of the ideas and recommended parts from McMaster-Carr.
BX

[BajaXplorer]

A few additional pictures.

[Scott Brady]

Looks awesome BX. Does that trailer have a hand brake? Pretty cool

The tent looks right at home there too. Now we need to get it out and use it:beer:

[91xlt]

looks great...what did you use for top decking material?:beer:

[flyingwil]

Looking good! Any plans on painting it to match the Taco?

[PCRover]

Looks great BX! Your lid is exacly as I originally inended mine with the welded frame. It looks a lot cleaner than mine does with all the brackets. How is teh pressure in teh springs? Is it a reasonable amount of force thats needed to close the lid?

Thanks for posting the pictures!

[datrupr]

Michael, looking very good. Keep us posted on your progress.

[BajaXplorer]

Thanks everyone.

Scott, yes the trailer has a handbrake, the same one as the truck! Oh, you probably meant the one attached to the trailer. Yes, there is one on the trailer that works quite well.

91XLT, the top was cut from a 4'x8' 16 gage sheet of cold rolled steel. It is welded to the frame.

Wil, since I am a rattlecan painter, it would be best if I stick with the flat OD. Touchup is a piece of cake, and it won't look like a mall rig.

PCRover, the springs are same as yours (125lb). Takes a little effort to start the lift, but then it goes right up and stays. Comes down pretty easy. Thinking that 150lb replacements might be necessary if these lose a little efficiency.

Aaron, thanks, I will.

[p1michaud]

Thought I would add a thread for my M101. Just completed the lid and roof tent addition to the trailer. Actually I haven't settled on type of latching mechanism to use, but lid is complete otherwise. My thanks to PCRover for many of the ideas and recommended parts from McMaster-Carr.
BX

Very nice.
Keep the pics coming as you progress!
Cheers :beer:,
P

[Desertdude]

Nice clean work! - where did you source the struts? and what length did you choose? McMaster-Carr?

[Willman]

Nice clean work! - where did you source the struts? and what length did you choose? McMaster-Carr?


BUMP!!........love to hear the answer for that one!!!

What a great trailer build!!!...I have a few questions for ya......

What size Eezi-Awn did you go with? (1200 or 1400)

If it is not a big trouble...I would love to see a detailed picture(s) how you mounted your Eezi-Awn the lid.

What type of locking setup did you use to keep the lid closed and locked???

Thanks!!!!!

:jumping:

[BajaXplorer]

In N. CA for graduation (grandson) will respond when I get home next week with pix and text. Pasquale did not see your post, but the struts are from Mc-Carr.
BX

[Willman]

In N. CA for graduation (grandson) will respond when I get home next week with pix and text.
BX

Bump!!!

:chowtime:

[Grease Cruiser]

One question for ya:
Can you still access the contents of the trailer when the tent is open?

[BajaXplorer]

BUMP!!........love to hear the answer for that one!!!

What a great trailer build!!!...I have a few questions for ya......

What size Eezi-Awn did you go with? (1200 or 1400)

If it is not a big trouble...I would love to see a detailed picture(s) how you mounted your Eezi-Awn the lid.

What type of locking setup did you use to keep the lid closed and locked???

Thanks!!!!!

:jumping:

The struts are from McMaster-Carr, 150lb force, 26.38length, 10.24 stroke.
The tent is the 1400 Series II model Eezi Awn.
Tent attached through the lid braces by four bolts that are mounted (and slide) in the tracks on tent bottom. The extra nut you see at each of the four positions is from not measuring twice (LOL) before drilling.
Locks are Master trailer hitch locks that just happen to be the right length. One at each end of lid. I also use tiedowns to eliminate stress on locks and hinges when I am running offroad. See pix in next post.
BX

[BajaXplorer]

One question for ya:
Can you still access the contents of the trailer when the tent is open?

Access is easy with tent up as it was set up to open to to the opposite side.
Included pix of tiedowns used to remove stress to hinges and lid when offroading, and pix of quad cover from Harbor Freight used to protect trailer in my backyard. You can also see the bungies used on tent cover to prevent flapping at highway speeds to prevent tearing, I hope.
BX

[RunninRubicon]

Very nice job! I have a friend who will really like to see these pictures. He is waiting for his M101 to arrive in Phx hopefully by the 29th. We will use your examples to build off of. Thanks for sharing.

[Steve Curren]

Indeed a most well thought out trailer, I sure hope that my friend will duplicate some of your great ideas. Is the trailer pretty much sealed or does the bed need any special sealing? How about the lighting, were you able to use any existing wires and what type of connestor was there if any?
Thanks,
Steve

[Sonofmax]

I just recently purchased an M101 1.5 ton trailer off military base in Hooks, Tx. I planned to convert it to an off-roader. It was recently recondiotioned by the military and was B rated. I went to pick it up and it was too large(weight/tires) for my 4Runner. I left it at a trailer shop in Texarkana to change out axle and tires so I could transport back to Santa Fe, NM. The trailer shop is a couple of good ol boys who are clueless and haven't even looked at it for 2 wks. I need help in either instructing them, or better, the name of someone in the area(200miles?) who can finish, or better yet start , the work. Thanks in advance. Dean

[BajaXplorer]

In response to a PM about the lid build, I am posting the info here in case someone else is curious.

The top rim of the M101 trailer is made from square 1"x1" tubing, so the square 1"x1" tubing I used for the lid frame sits level on it. The frame is made from two 1"x1"x6' (sides) and five 1"x1"x4' square tubing (crossribs) bought at Home Depot for about $120. Had to trim about 2" off the three middle 4' rib pieces before welding it all together. Clamped the pieces down on the trailer rim and tacked them together for welding.
The top material is cut from a 4'x8' sheet of cold rolled steel 16 gage. It was $65 plus $20 for the cutting to size at local metal yard.
Used 1"x3/16" rubber gasket (Ace) with adhesive on one side attached to the lid to seal out dust and water. While the lid's weight has really compressed the gasket, so far no dust inside from offroading, and no water leakage in downpour.
About $275 invested in the lid including hardware (hinges, struts and locks). It weighs about 85 pounds and the tent weighs another 125, so when towing offroad, I use the tiedowns as mentioned in post above to relieve stress on hinges. Otherwise, I don't bother with the tiedowns.
BX

[BajaXplorer]

I just recently purchased an M101 1.5 ton trailer off military base in Hooks, Tx. I planned to convert it to an off-roader. It was recently recondiotioned by the military and was B rated. I went to pick it up and it was too large(weight/tires) for my 4Runner. I left it at a trailer shop in Texarkana to change out axle and tires so I could transport back to Santa Fe, NM. The trailer shop is a couple of good ol boys who are clueless and haven't even looked at it for 2 wks. I need help in either instructing them, or better, the name of someone in the area(200miles?) who can finish, or better yet start , the work. Thanks in advance. Dean

I'm sorry, but I cannot be of any help on the US Army M101. I know they are much bigger (too big for my D/C). Maybe someone else reading your post can offer some advice.
BX

[BajaXplorer]

Indeed a most well thought out trailer, I sure hope that my friend will duplicate some of your great ideas. Is the trailer pretty much sealed or does the bed need any special sealing? How about the lighting, were you able to use any existing wires and what type of connestor was there if any?
Thanks,
Steve

Steve,
Trailer did not have lights when I got it. Used after market trailer lights (from Lowe's). Trailer wiring was intact and I cut and spliced as needed at the hitch and at the lights. Lid seal has worked very well for such a simple solution. Just 1"x3/16" rubber gasket from Ace with peel and stick adhesive on one side.
BX

[Steve Curren]

Thanks for the info, that will save a few minutes of time when we are ready to get working on the trailer.
Once again thanks a million,
Steve

[Willman]

Thanks for the info, that will save a few minutes of time when we are ready to get working on the trailer.
Once again thanks a million,
Steve

Ditto!!

:)

[p1michaud]

BX,
Just caugh up on this thread. Cool trailer, nicely set up, I like it!
Cheers :beer:,
P

[Willman]

BX,
Few more questions for ya.....

Do you have a picture of the hinges all mounted up on the lid?

Where did you get the hinges?

Are they steel of SS?

In your opinion...do you like the hinges you used or would a piano hinge would have worked better?

Thanks BX!

:)

[Willman]

And another one or two for ya......

How do you like the 16 ga. on the lid? To little, good, or not heavy enough?

Thanks BX!

:chowtime:

[BajaXplorer]

Willman,
Will have to take a couple of pix of hinges and post them here. There are four 2"x2" steel hinges (not SS) spaced evenly (from Ace, I believe). Didn't see a need for piano hinge, but was careful about squaring the hinges to each other so they did not bind up when opening the lid. Used the crimped type lock nuts on the inside so someone could not remove the bolts to get in (they just spin around after bolt is turned a little). Hinges have worked fine and not loosened up. Of course, offroading I have a ratchet strap across each end to control any movement of lid. Don't feel piano hinge necessary, but believe it would probably be more secure due to number of fasteners used.
Feel the 16 gage was a good choice to keep someone from using a can opener to get in. Weighed the complete lid before attaching it. At 80 lbs, it a little heavier than I care for, but has not been a problem. Feel 18 gage would be light as I would care to go.
BX

[Willman]

Willman,
Will have to take a couple of pix of hinges and post them here. There are four 2"x2" steel hinges (not SS) spaced evenly (from Ace, I believe). Didn't see a need for piano hinge, but was careful about squaring the hinges to each other so they did not bind up when opening the lid. Used the crimped type lock nuts on the inside so someone could not remove the bolts to get in (they just spin around after bolt is turned a little). Hinges have worked fine and not loosened up. Of course, offroading I have a ratchet strap across each end to control any movement of lid. Don't feel piano hinge necessary, but believe it would probably be more secure due to number of fasteners used.
Feel the 16 gage was a good choice to keep someone from using a can opener to get in. Weighed the complete lid before attaching it. At 80 lbs, it a little heavier than I care for, but has not been a problem. Feel 18 gage would be light as I would care to go.
BX


Thanks BX for taking the time to reply back!

Thanks for all the great infor!

Look foreword to seeing those pictures when you get time.

Thanks again!

:)

[BajaXplorer]

Willman,
Have attached pix of hinges as requested.
BX

[Willman]

Thanks BX!

:)

[roberto]

New to the forum so I will say hello here and say your trailer looks great, I am going with the Eezi 1400 as well for my CDN M101 and wondering what size tires and brand are they? They look perfect. I have 2 pairs of Allegis shocks that I bought new from someone, 1 pair is 150lb and the other 250lb and wondering which ones to use for basically the same type lid setup but was thinking about aluminum?

Roberto

[BajaXplorer]

Roberto, welcome
Sorry for the delay, did not notice your post. Probably should subcribe to my own thread.
The tires are Dunlop LT235x85x16 MudRovers. I bought them because they are 32" in height (same as on truck), but narrow for the trailer. I have (but have not installed) new hubs for the trailer that are same lug pattern as the Tacoma. Plan is to be able to use trailer tires on truck, if nececessary.
My only complaint with the tires is that they are 10 ply. Offroad, I would be happier with a 6 ply tire that could be aired down to flex on washboard roads. The Dunlops are too stiff even when air is dropped to 10 pounds. I have only learned recently that there are some manufacturers that produce a tall M&S, or AT tire that is only 6 or 8 plies. Will probably change to one of them.
On the lid, I considered aluminum, but decided it was too expensive as the frame would also have been aluminum. Plus welding skills/equipment (of friend) were not up to aluminum.
My lid weighs 80 lbs plus 125 lbs for the RTT. Started with 125 shocks/struts, but changed to 250 (I think). Positioning is important, so that when compressed they don't have the leverage to easily pop the lid up until you give it a little lift.
Hope this helps you some, the trailer mods are a hit and miss learning experience.
BX

[roberto]

Looks great, I was wanting to 33 x 9.5 x 16 on my BJ42and CDN M101. What width are these tires?

Rob

[BajaXplorer]

Looks great, I was wanting to 33 x 9.5 x 16 on my BJ42and CDN M101. What width are these tires?

Rob

Section width is about 9 inches, actual width on face of tread is 7 inches.
BX

[roberto]

Perfect, that is the new size tire I will be getting for BJ42 and trailer, looks great! Thanks Brother!

Rob

[TMJeep]

Could you tell me what brands did you find that have the 6-8 plies and are they the same size tire? I need to get some tires for my M101 and have been trying to find the best suited for all around terrain. I definately want something that is taller and a little wider than the originals.

[BajaXplorer]

Will have to backpeddle a little as the tire I thought I found was mislabeled. I want a 32" tire like the Dunlop RVXT on this Tire Rack page. Problem is it's actually E rated, not C rated as indicated. There are 32" tires that are C rated, such as the Yokohama Geolander in a 265x75x16, but they are wider than I want. The 235x85x16 all seem to be E rated.
If you are just looking for a tire "taller and a little wider than the originals" on the M101, the 235 size seems to be the only one that will fit the original wheels which are very narrow. Changing the hubs to fit normal 16" wheel will give more choices because of wider wheel selections (there are no other wheels that fit the M101 hub except the originals). If you change the hubs and go to a 15" wheel, there would be more choices available in the C range, I believe.
Sorry for misleading you in previous post.
BX

[TMJeep]

Will have to backpeddle a little as the tire I thought I found was mislabeled. I want a 32" tire like the Dunlop RVXT on this Tire Rack page. Problem is it's actually E rated, not C rated as indicated. There are 32" tires that are C rated, such as the Yokohama Geolander in a 265x75x16, but they are wider than I want. The 235x85x16 all seem to be E rated.
If you are just looking for a tire "taller and a little wider than the originals" on the M101, the 235 size seems to be the only one that will fit the original wheels which are very narrow. Changing the hubs to fit normal 16" wheel will give more choices because of wider wheel selections (there are no other wheels that fit the M101 hub except the originals). If you change the hubs and go to a 15" wheel, there would be more choices available in the C range, I believe.
Sorry for misleading you in previous post.
BX
That's not a problem. Thanks for letting me know.

[BajaXplorer]

Time to update my M101 thread.

I had an axle made up 5.5” shorter than stock so I could mount some zero offset black spokes with a Toyota bolt pattern. Changed out the bearings and hubs on the new axle to Toyota.

Jay S. did the research (thanks, Jay) and I mounted aftermarket Dakar Samurai front leaves from ARB. Took the trailer into nearby Box Canyon for a test run on some rocky, washboardy and stepped trail. Decided with my trailer weight, there was a little too much flex on rocks and steps, so I put the ARB extra leaf in the spring pack. Seems to be perfect now, sure beats the rock solid/no flex stock nine leaf spring pack.

Had a 2” receiver tube welded in to replace the standard pintle setup of the M101 so that I could use a Lock-N-Roll hitch. Added a fold-up wheel, 4” wide and 8” tall, from Bass Pro to handle offroad terrain.

Also built a table for cooking, or whatever, which mounts on the back of the trailer when camped. It has hooks that rest on the rear handles and is supported on the outside with chains that attach to eyes just under the trailer lip. Works very well.

Have photos, but keep getting error message when trying to upload them.

BX

[Rezarf <><]

BX, looking forward to the pics, sounds like you made some very useful mods to your already sweet trailer!

Keep it up.

Rezarf <><

[BajaXplorer]

Finally figured out what I was doing wrong trying to load pix of mods mentioned above.
BX