Engine/trans skid

[ryanhewitt]

This is my first post, but have been visiting for a while to get answers. I have an 01, Wrangler that I would like to put an engine/trans skid on. I would like the product to be made somewhere besides China (U.S. preferable) , and would like to be able to still use it if I decide to go with a belly up later. I've seen what's out there:rokman, skid row, rustys, and warn. These are the only ones that I've seen that don't incorporate a long arm mount, new trans mount, etc. Any other ideas? I'm not going to be doing wheel stands and then coming down on the skid. I would just like to have some protection, especially when I'm loaded/aired down. Fortunately when my wife came down on something, it dented the pan but no leaks or interference. Thanks in advance.

[ChemicalToilet]

You should steer clear of the Warn, heard it's only 1/8" thick and won't put up with much abuse.

I had the Rusty's and it held up to the beatings I gave it. Having a somewhat low jeep at the time (32's and a budget boost) it got alot of use. I still have my Rusty's on there after my belly up, albeit with some modification. Depending on your fabrication skills I don't see why you can't make any of them work with a belly up. I even reused the front mounting bracket that came with the Rusty's skid after tweaking it a bit.

http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/1526/p1010169pb3.jpg

[30-284]

Take a look at Rokmen, good quality stuff!


http://www.rokmen.com/products/skid_plates/up_armor_skids/up_armor_skids.html


Donn

[ryanhewitt]

Thank you ChemicalToilet for the input. That is the route I was actually thinking. Just wanted to know if a belly could be used down the road, and obviously it can. 30-284 I checked the Rokman and very nice but it looks like you have to buy the entire package up front, and I don't have that $ right now, but thanks for the reply. Chem did you raise the front of the eng. skid when you did your belly up? From what I read about Rusty's, the passenger side would be easy with the drilling of a new mounting hole, but what about the drivers side that comes down from the top? Thanks to both of you again.

[ChemicalToilet]

Yes the front is raised as well. It's not really as easy as drilling a new hole. I kept the drivers side as is, cut the passengers side off at the bend for the driveshaft, flipped and bent the passengers side piece, then welded it back together. The skid used to be longer too. So depending on your fab skills, anything can be made to work with anything.

Found some 'before' pics.

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/9026/b42fn0.jpg
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/2451/b41bh1.jpg

[ryanhewitt]

Thanks for the pics and words ChemicalToilet. I will be ordering the Rusty's this week!

[PhulesAU]

Skid Row, I've beat the Crappp outta mine and sofar have only scratched the paint!!

[jeepmedic46]

Rustys is good.:camping:

[TCM]

If your transmission is a manual then I would highly recommend the oil pan skid from AEV. It will prevent damage to the oil pan and with a manual you do not need a transmission skid.

https://secure.aev-conversions.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=NTH24302AA

[ChemicalToilet]

Wanna bet?

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/8282/holefb1.jpg

[P89Jeeper]

Rokmen or Clayton would be the way to go.

[ryanhewitt]

Well the skid plate was in stock and arrived from Rustys' (although shipping was a bit more than I though it was going to be, $52). I did the install and everything went smooth, except while torquing one of the bolts to secure the plate to it's mount. The bolt sheared in half. Not a big deal, just replaced it, but the hardware seems a bit weak. The bolt heads and nuts didn't fit my Craftsman sockets that well. Chemical how's changing the oil with the skid in place? The hole in my plate is actually forward and to the drivers side of the pan drain, seems like this is going to be a messy job. Thanks again for everyone's input.

[Mayne]

Rokmen or Clayton would be the way to go.

Clayton's oil skid, although very good, requires a long arm. I called and asked about it about a year ago. Terra flex has one, and I believe Kilby has one, but I think you need thier transfer case skid.


Mayne

[ChemicalToilet]

Well the skid plate was in stock and arrived from Rustys' (although shipping was a bit more than I though it was going to be, $52). I did the install and everything went smooth, except while torquing one of the bolts to secure the plate to it's mount. The bolt sheared in half. Not a big deal, just replaced it, but the hardware seems a bit weak. The bolt heads and nuts didn't fit my Craftsman sockets that well. Chemical how's changing the oil with the skid in place? The hole in my plate is actually forward and to the drivers side of the pan drain, seems like this is going to be a messy job. Thanks again for everyone's input.


I would call Rusty's and inquire about the location of the oil drain hole, maybe it was made wrong. Mine was exactly where it needed to be. Changing the filter makes a bit of a mess, but I always just threw some rags or absorbent mats on the skid to keep it to a minimum. Do you have a 4 or 6 cylinder? Can you take a picture of the skid installed, especially the hole?

I didn't have a problem with the hardware on mine. Can't say I'm surprised though, it seems like that skid is the only thing that Rusty's makes that people recommend, guess that might be going to crap too.

[P89Jeeper]

Clayton's oil skid, although very good, requires a long arm. I called and asked about it about a year ago. Terra flex has one, and I believe Kilby has one, but I think you need thier transfer case skid.


Mayne

They must have a different one now. One of my friends has one with a short arm lift.

[ryanhewitt]

ChemicalToilet I have a 6 cyl. so yeah I'm thinking the quality control at Rusty's may not be that great. Anyway I will try and attach a pic or two. I might call Rusty's, although I don't know if they'll make good since I've already drilled the holes. Thanks for the answers.

[luk4mud]

For oil changes, you may want to consider the fujimoto drain system. Fram makes a knockoff one as well, usually available at HF for under $10. I have had the Fram on for 2+ years and it works well.

As far as Rusty's stuff, I'm not surprised. He used to make decent stuff, but it's more common to find ticked off customers than happy ones these days it seems. There a re a few brands that I just steer clear of and that is one.

[ChemicalToilet]

I would still try giving Rustys a call and see about returning it, it was obviously made wrong.

[ryanhewitt]

Well I called Rusty's and started the conversation with "where is the oil drain hole supposed to be on the plate?". He replied forward and to the drivers side of the drain plug. So either they made a bad run and people have been calling, or the design has changed. I explained that I don't see how I'm supposed to remove the plug using the hole as access. He said that no you are supposed to come in from the side of the skid, between the skid and frame. Loosen the plug, place a funnel on top of the skid, and unscrew the plug the rest of the way by finger. I'm sure that will work (may need to make/modify a funnel), but appearently it's fine.

[luk4mud]

Well I called Rusty's and started the conversation with "where is the oil drain hole supposed to be on the plate?". He replied forward and to the drivers side of the drain plug. So either they made a bad run and people have been calling, or the design has changed. I explained that I don't see how I'm supposed to remove the plug using the hole as access. He said that no you are supposed to come in from the side of the skid, between the skid and frame. Loosen the plug, place a funnel on top of the skid, and unscrew the plug the rest of the way by finger. I'm sure that will work (may need to make/modify a funnel), but appearently it's fine.

If it were me, I'd probably just live with it but would think real hard about buying anything else from them. It just shouldn't be that hard to change your oil..

[ChemicalToilet]

Well I called Rusty's and started the conversation with "where is the oil drain hole supposed to be on the plate?". He replied forward and to the drivers side of the drain plug. So either they made a bad run and people have been calling, or the design has changed. I explained that I don't see how I'm supposed to remove the plug using the hole as access. He said that no you are supposed to come in from the side of the skid, between the skid and frame. Loosen the plug, place a funnel on top of the skid, and unscrew the plug the rest of the way by finger. I'm sure that will work (may need to make/modify a funnel), but appearently it's fine.

:Wow1: Sounds like you can dry that one out and fertilize the lawn. I feel really bad about recommending Rusty's. The hole in mine looks like it's the same size as the one in yours, except the front edge of it is just a little ahead of the plug and it goes back. Perfect spot, just used an extension and a ratchet to get the plug. Why would they change that? That explanation would have gotten him an earful from me, they must have screwed up the entire production run of them and they don't want to eat it. Hope it's worth their already shaky reputation.

[ryanhewitt]

luk4mud and chemicaltoilet I agree with what you both said. I probably won't by anything else from them, and chem I was going with that skid anyway so no worries. I'll set something up to change the oil, if it's a disaster than I'll just take the saw to it and put a hole where it belongs. It's a bit of a bummer, but at least it's not like replacing an oil pump only to find that the replacement is bad. I'll keep everyone posted on the oil change. Thanks.

[luk4mud]

Ryan, I saw those Fujimoto knockoff drain systems at HF the other day again. They're like $5. Might help with your issue.

[Jeffb79]

I'd go with a fujimoto oil drain valve and some tubing....
changing the oil with most engine skids is a pia, but once I place the fujimoto valve on there all I have to do is slide the rubber hose over the nipple and open the valve. Very easy and mess free.

[ryanhewitt]

Thanks luk4mud and Jeffb79. I was thinking of going with a drain system before I had the skid, but was concerned about it being unprotected. Now it's protected and seems like a good time to switch. I'll look into the knock-offs, fujimoto, and the fram version. Thanks again for everyones input.