Taco Regearing cost?

[GaryMc]

Can anyone give me a ballpark figure on regearing my '03 Tacoma? Labor and parts?
The combination of 33's and the Four Wheel Camper have turned it into a bit of a dog....

Thanks,

Gary

[kcowyo]

Don't bother. Get a TRD supercharger.


You'll thank me later.

:smiley_drive:
.

[GaryMc]

Don't bother. Get a TRD supercharger.


You'll thank me later.

:smiley_drive:
.

How will it effect engine longevity? I've got 85k on the truck....

[Ursidae69]

Can anyone give me a ballpark figure on regearing my '03 Tacoma? Labor and parts?
The combination of 33's and the Four Wheel Camper have turned it into a bit of a dog....

Thanks,

Gary


I think parts and labor will run about a grand at a shop.

[HMR]

Can anyone give me a ballpark figure on regearing my '03 Tacoma? Labor and parts?I just got a quote to put 4.56's in my 2005.

Front Gears: $220
Rear Gears: $271
B&S Kit: $152
Seal&Shim Kit: $45
Labor Front: $652*
Labor Rear: $507*

Total= $1847

*The labor quoted includes installation of ARB lockers front and rear (but not ARB compressor, switches, etc.). The labor would be slightly less for gears only.

The prices I quoted are from a local, well respected, shop in San Diego. I think you could find a better price elsewhere. I'm also seriously considering shipping my diffs to East Coast Gear Supply (http://www.eastcoastgearsupply.com/). If you remove and ship your diffs, they'll install the gears and ship them back at a significant discount. I've done some research and they seem to have a good rep. Might be worth a call.

[Ursidae69]

I just got a quote to put 4.56's in my 2005.

Front Gears: $220
Rear Gears: $271
B&S Kit: $152
Seal&Shim Kit: $45
Labor Front: $652*
Labor Rear: $507*

Total= $1847

*The labor quoted includes installation of ARB lockers front and rear (but not ARB compressor, switches, etc.). The labor would be slightly less for gears only.

The prices I quoted are from a local, well respected, shop in San Diego. I think you could find a better price elsewhere. I'm also seriously considering shipping my diffs to East Coast Gear Supply (http://www.eastcoastgearsupply.com/). If you remove and ship your diffs, they'll install the gears and ship them back at a significant discount. I've done some research and they seem to have a good rep. Might be worth a call.


Wow, I was off a bit. Thanks for breaking it down HMR.

[GaryMc]

Oof! Decisions, decisions.....

Thanks guys.

[Willman]

I too have priced it out...

Came out to be around $1,200......This price is taking out your own diffs and taking them to a local shop for some under the table side work.


Supercharger.....still kicking it around!

:smiley_drive:

[kcowyo]

How will it effect engine longevity? I've got 85k on the truck....


I've got 100K supercharged miles on my 3.4ltr, with 149K total miles. My goal for this truck is 250K miles.

Gears will compensate for the 33's, they won't help much, if at all, with 700lbs of FWC. I think you'll find the cost of a SC & install, to be similar to regearing and with much better results.

YMMV....
.

[Redline]

I respectfully disagree. My 4.88 gears have helped tremendously with much more weight than 700-lbs.
From a 1,500-lb trailer to a 7,500-lb trailer, my 4.88s ROCK! :wings:


snip..

Gears will compensate for the 33's, they won't help much, if at all, with 700lbs of FWC. I think you'll find the cost of a SC & install, to be similar to regearing and with much better results.

YMMV....
.

[kcowyo]

You have a V8...... :box:

.

[dyogim]

If you are not in a hurry, search the message boards (TTORA, Pirate4x4, Yotatech, IH8MUD, etc) you should be able to find someone selling a complete third member with either 4.56's or 4.88's at a fair price and cheaper than a complete build. As far as the price for the build, I agree, it'll be about $1200 if you take the thrid members out yourself. Rather than having the shop remove it. This would also be a good time to install a traction system. Either lunchbox locker, LSD, Posi, auto locker or selectable.

Otherwise, you can do the gear install yourself. There's a lot of resources on the net to help you...

[Redline]

True :) but I had V8 before with 3.73s and the difference with 4.88s is more than ‘noticeable’. :sombrero:


You have a V8...... :box:

.

[111db]

1200 sounds about right if you R&R yourself. Tim and I had both front and rear out in under 2 hours on his 01.

I have a 3.4 and the 4.88's made a huge difference in pulling my trailer which is about 1300lbs loaded. Not only that but you gain in slow crawl as well as downhill.

And x2 (or is it x3) on adding traction control now if were you thinking you might do it in the future.

[Rexsname]

Mine was about $1500 or so.......I had an appointment at one well respected shop but that didn't work so well.

There is a thred around here somewhere, I'll look for it later today


REX

[cruiseroutfit]

Pull you 3rds and it can be done in the $1100 range.

Gears - $400
Install Kits - $300
Setup labor - $375
Misc seals - $50

[Rexsname]

We pull a small trailer and with the stock 4.10 gears the truck would hunt back and forth between third gear and overdrive. Now that I've gone with the 4.88s the truck seems 'happier' on the freeway. I will be changing the tire size to 33x10.50 soon and hope that the happiness remains.

LOve the re-gear around town and off road but having the speedometer be incorrect buy that much is annoying on the freeway. 75mph actual is 90mph indicated.


REX

[tacollie]

I would regear and not supercharge. Everyone I know with a supercharger has lots of power but average 12-14mpg around town. Gears will help your crawl ratio and make better use of you torque on road. $1200 sounds about right.

[kcowyo]

Everyone I know with a supercharger has lots of power but average 12-14mpg around town.

They're doing it wrong...

Me = 18.9mpg average in town, as high as 21.8mpg average on the highway. That's a 5 year average (with 33's) that I track rather consistently. The worst mpg I have ever gotten was 13.8mpg and that was in 4wd on the trail for a week in Canyonlands NP, with my FWC mounted on the truck.

Gears are great to get him back into his stock powerband with 33's. It still won't be enough with his Four Wheel Camper on the back. The 3.4ltr stock with a FWC on the back will lag considerably. What is needed is additional horsepower and the only way to achieve significant horsepower over stock is to add a supercharger.

YMMV....
.

[RocKrawler]

Can anyone give me a ballpark figure on regearing my '03 Tacoma? Labor and parts?
The combination of 33's and the Four Wheel Camper have turned it into a bit of a dog....

Thanks,

Gary

The price will also change a bit depending on if you have the 8" rear e-locker or the 8.4" non e-locker differential (both the gears and installation kits for the rear end have different costs, however labor is the same). The gears will also help with your clutch if its a manual, or keep the heat down and prolong the life of your automatic by reducing slippage.

[Cackalak Han]

They're doing it wrong...

Me = 18.9mpg average in town, as high as 21.8mpg average on the highway. That's a 5 year average (with 33's) that I track rather consistently. The worst mpg I have ever gotten was 13.8mpg and that was in 4wd on the trail for a week in Canyonlands NP, with my FWC mounted on the truck.
YMMV....
.

My stock 98 3.4L 4Runner w/ TRD supercharger averaged ~20MPG on the freeway and 17 around town. I wasn't exactly babying it, either. I loved hearing that whine. :D

[GaryMc]

I stopped by Safari LTD. at lunch and talked to Hugh about it for a bit. I'm going to regear in March and see what I think .... A supercharger is not out of the question. I like the fact that taing it back to the stock ratio will make life easier on my clutch and the around town driving.
For Safari to do the work it will be $1800'ish. I do not have a good workspace so will not do it myself.
One of these days I will have a real garage!

Thanks again guys.

[tacollie]

They're doing it wrong...

Me = 18.9mpg average in town, as high as 21.8mpg average on the highway. That's a 5 year average (with 33's) that I track rather consistently. The worst mpg I have ever gotten was 13.8mpg and that was in 4wd on the trail for a week in Canyonlands NP, with my FWC mounted on the truck.

Gears are great to get him back into his stock powerband with 33's. It still won't be enough with his Four Wheel Camper on the back. The 3.4ltr stock with a FWC on the back will lag considerably. What is needed is additional horsepower and the only way to achieve significant horsepower over stock is to add a supercharger.

YMMV....
.

Sweet. The three people I know with SCs may have done it wrong. The HP would be nice with the FWC. 4.56s with a SC would be killer it sounds like. I am just going the cheaper route, 4.88s, I don't have 700lbs on the back either. Planning on 500lbs.

[OTR]

Love the re-gear around town and off road but having the speedometer be incorrect buy that much is annoying on the freeway. 75mph actual is 90mph indicated.


REX[/QUOTE]

WOW! You must be realy racking up the miles on your truck.

[4307]

I too have priced it out...

Came out to be around $1,200......This price is taking out your own diffs and taking them to a local shop for some under the table side work.


Supercharger.....still kicking it around!

:smiley_drive:

Will, what gears are you running now?

4307

[heeltoe989]

I respectfully disagree. My 4.88 gears have helped tremendously with much more weight than 700-lbs.
From a 1,500-lb trailer to a 7,500-lb trailer, my 4.88s ROCK! :wings:

I agree!

Gear first, then if you need the extra grunt, SC.

[NothingClever]

I went with the re-gear through Armorology and the frugal (read poor) man's version of an off-body frame restoration.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA_0000.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA_000.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA026.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA030.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA029.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA031.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA002.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA027.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA015.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA011.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA007.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA024.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/Armorology-11-BA036.jpg

[NorthernWoodsman]

it sounds like you have it figured out, but for what it's worth...

i was quoted approx. $1,200 for the local 4Wheel Parts store/shop to re-gear my truck ('94 toyota) to 4.56 for both front and rear. for an extra $150-200 i could get a lifetime warranty on labor.

[NothingClever]

it sounds like you have it figured out, but for what it's worth...

i was quoted approx. $1,200 for the local 4Wheel Parts store/shop to re-gear my truck ('94 toyota) to 4.56 for both front and rear. for an extra $150-200 i could get a lifetime warranty on labor.

You are correct, sir - I figured out a good solution for me :victory: . I'm outside the US and didn't have the benefit of time to shop around. I'm simply exemplifying the age-old paradigm.....time = money.

Little time, lotta money.

Lotta time, little money.

So, although anything by Armorology costs more than Uncle Fuddy's and the Brothers Mullet down the road, I know that Jed Heming will do the job I would do if I were home.

Regardless, I'm a kindered spirit of the CBOA* Club and I recognize the secret handshake you were extending.

* Cheap Bastards of America Club, a loose affiliation of shadetree engineers and entrepreneurs who make sh*t happen on a budget.

[sovereign]

I went with the re-gear through Armorology and the frugal (read poor) man's version of an off-body frame restoration.



Can you post the pics to go along with the thumbnails?

[NothingClever]

Can you post the pics to go along with the thumbnails?

Updated pics :ylsmoke: .

[sovereign]

Updated pics :ylsmoke: .

Very nice!:sombrero:

I'm surprised Armorology has the time to do regears. Has their fabrication work slowed down? It used to be a 4-6 month wait just to get an appointment.

[NothingClever]

Has their fabrication work slowed down? It used to be a 4-6 month wait just to get an appointment.

No, Jed is recession proof, much like fellow Colorado craftsman Jeff Slavens (motorcycle suspension journeyman :bike_rider: ).

Jed is expanding. He moved to a new facility, he's hired a dependable, capable apprentice and I think he's selectively branching out with products and services beyond his traditional menu of bumpers and sliders :victory: .

He's got my vehicle in local storage for the year so he's able to work on it as his schedule allows :wings: .

[sovereign]

No, Jed is recession proof, much like fellow Colorado craftsman Jeff Slavens (motorcycle suspension journeyman :bike_rider: ).

Jed is expanding. He moved to a new facility, he's hired a dependable, capable apprentice and I think he's selectively branching out with products and services beyond his traditional menu of bumpers and sliders :victory: .

He's got my vehicle in local storage for the year so he's able to work on it as his schedule allows :wings: .

Good for you!:victory:

Glad to hear they are stepping things up.

CBI-Offroad is also stepping up their game, and is now guaranteeing a one month ship date from the time of placing an order.

[Jeff Wanamog]

Well I too belong to the no time and too much money stupid club.
I made the big mistake of ordering so called "complete diffs" from Just Differentials. Well the diffs showed up incomplete and their only comment was " you got what you paid for".
They have been complete jerks to deal with trying to get this resolved.
I had my old diffs sold and J/D wanted me to just take the parts off of the old diffs. The guy backed out of buying my diffs so now I stuck.

Jeff

[sovereign]

Well I too belong to the no time and too much money stupid club.
I made the big mistake of ordering so called "complete diffs" from Just Differentials. Well the diffs showed up incomplete and their only comment was " you got what you paid for".
They have been complete jerks to deal with trying to get this resolved.
I had my old diffs sold and J/D wanted me to just take the parts off of the old diffs. The guy backed out of buying my diffs so now I stuck.

Jeff

Yikes!

I am almost ready to order from ECGS. Any horror stories out there about them? I have only heard good reports so far.

Also, regarding the "no time and too much money stupid club", ECGS is cheaper than I could have this done by anyone local. Plus they include a 5 year warranty. I've got more time than money, and would gladly do more of the time part of the equation if I could keep the cost down.

[Glorybigs]

Quote I recently got from ECGS:

> Front Diff is $1415 w/ ARB and 4.56
> Rear diff cost is $685 w/ solid spacer and required flange
> Shipping included.
>
> You receive a few days later and swap them in. You then send your cores
> back, we can include shipping labels for the return of the diffs for an
> additional $80.
>
> We do not charge a core charge up front, after 3 weeks if not returned
> there
> is a $400 dollar charge per unit. You then have 2 weeks to return for a
> refund. If an unexpected situation occurs we will work with you. Basically
> we don't want your money we want the cores back.
>
> East Coast Gear Supply
> 919-672-2705
> www.eastcoastgearsupply.com

[NothingClever]

Somewhat related to my re-gearing....and completely related to my morale :D .


Alcan springs were ordered the beginning of last week, and they estimated 3-4 weeks for their arrival. They were quite helpful & very knowledge ofthe ToyTec suspension system your vehicle currently has, as well as the camper you have. They will be building a set of rear springs with an appropriate load-rate for the camper, a spring rate for a comfortable ride, and a 2.5" lift over stock. The ToyTec rear add-a-leaf adds 2" of lift height over stock, and Alcan expects a 0.5" inch of settle as the springs break in.

Minus the rear suspension, we have your vehicle completely reassembled. We also have the rear axle completely reassembled with the rebuilt/re-geared third member, new seals, new outer axle seals, inner seals, axle shafts, brake assembly seals, etc... As soon as the rear springs arrive, we can have the vehicle back on tires, in which case we’ll perform a thorough gear break-in procedure.

Also wanted to let you know, for some unknown reason, your front driver's side Bilstein coil-over shock was leaking shock fluid. While we had the front coil-overs off the vehicle for the frame restoration, I had the Bilstein warranted. I have only seen one or two Bilstein shock seal leaks ever; it might have been damaged when the rear air bag mount bent, placing an over extension of the front inner seal (?), or just been an anomaly in the seal/assemblyfrom the factory. In either case, we have installed a brand new BilsteinCoil-Over Shock for you under warranty, at no charge.

[Redline]

Congratulations on your new gears and other improvements, looks GREAT :elkgrin:

What gear ratios did you change from - to ?



You are correct, sir - I figured out a good solution for me :victory: . I'm outside the US and didn't have the benefit of time to shop around. I'm simply exemplifying the age-old paradigm.....time = money.

snip....

[NothingClever]

Thanks! I'm excited :wings: to get home and take the "new" truck for a drive :smiley_drive: .

I changed from 4.10 (stock) to 4.88.

I think the 4.56 option would have been a negligible improvement.

I left the front differential open (no locker) and retained the OEM e-locker in the rear.

[sovereign]

Thanks! I'm excited :wings: to get home and take the "new" truck for a drive :smiley_drive: .

I changed from 4.10 (stock) to 4.88.

I think the 4.56 option would have been a negligible improvement.

I left the front differential open (no locker) and retained the OEM e-locker in the rear.

Perhaps I have missed it, but what tire size are you running?

ETA: 235/86/16?: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=779395&postcount=5

[NothingClever]

Some skinnies...LT235/85/16 Firestones with an E load rate.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/NadaListoCeroSeis/Taco%20Stuff/June%202010%20Vacation/IMGP1445.jpg

[tacollie]

I saw your truck at Jeds recently. It looked nice.

[sovereign]

Some skinnies...LT235/85/16 Firestones with an E load rate.



OK. I give up. V6? Auto? 5-speed?

[NothingClever]

OK. I give up. V6? Auto? 5-speed?

Sorry, didn't mean to be elusive.

MY 2002
3.4l V6
No S/C
Manual 5 speed transmission

Extra plain vanilla :chef: .

[Redline]

I agree, good choice with 4.88s.

Also like your 235/85 tire size, they should help with MPG a bit.

Some of us like vanilla. "Extra vanilla" is almost like having vanilla fudge :)



snip...

I changed from 4.10 (stock) to 4.88.

I think the 4.56 option would have been a negligible improvement.

[Newtac11]

I saw your truck at Jeds recently. It looked nice.

Not to derail, but I just saw it today myself. It gave me ideas I don't think my wife would approve of....

Back to topic...do you think the power band would remain close to stock with 265's instead of 235's using the 4.88's, or would I need to go down to 5....somethings?

[NothingClever]

I'm no expert but I think you'll be fine.

My 235s don't seem that much larger than 265s.

When you get into the 5s, I think you're starting to get into ratios better suited for mild rock crawling.

Again, I'm no expert and have relied on Jed to help me make decisions. His advice was that getting into the 5s would compromise the interstate "application" of the truck.

[sovereign]

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

[Redline]

Correct, the difference between most 265/75 and 235/85 is a few tenths of an inch, hardly enough to be concerned about. There are some 265s that are as tall or taller than some 235s, just depends on the tire.


Snip...

My 235s don't seem that much larger than 265s.
Snip....

[farrdg]

Not to derail, but I just saw it today myself. It gave me ideas I don't think my wife would approve of....

Back to topic...do you think the power band would remain close to stock with 265's instead of 235's using the 4.88's, or would I need to go down to 5....somethings?
I have an 08 Taco, TRD Off-Road, 4 door, Automatic. I really like my 265x75x16's. I pull an off-road, pop up tent trailer with it and the Stock gears work just fine. I breached this subject at Marlin crawlers and the thought was better to invest in headers and a good exhaust and intake so that the engine would be at its best. Now if I were going up to 255x85x16's then I would consider the gears. Old Sven has a Supercharged 4 Runner that is very well built and I believe that he is going back to 265's as well. Mine is a daily driver and I'll probably jump to 285x70x17's at some point, but think that I'll put a crawler box in for the low gears that I want and stick with the stock gears for the highway. Have to see once I make the jump. For now its fine with the 265's and very little change to the power band.

[Wanderlusty]

Just a slight deviation from topic, but anyone have the idea on cost if you are happy enough with gears, but wanted to install an ARB air locker in the rear only.

Would the cost be the same (labor wise) as if switching gears, or would it be less if they were just putting in the locker?

For me, this is purely research and theoretical as I don't have anything to lock right now anyway, but am in the market, and if I find the right truck but minus the locker option I want (loved having it on my '04 Taco) curious about how much above and beyond the cost of the unit itself adding a locker would cost.

Or would sourcing a stock 3rd member with locker in it be the cheaper way to go?

Thanks.

[NothingClever]

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Thanks Sovereign, that's a really useful link.

With my R150F manual transmission, 4.88 re-gear and 235/85/16 tires, the outlook for highway travelling is:

4th gear @ 3,618 RPMs = 70mph
5th gear @ 3,039 RPMs = 70mph

Given that I have a FWC camper on the back, 70-75mph should be plenty fast and downshifting to 4th gear for highway inclines still has me in the supple part of the power band.

Lower gears? All gravy for challenging forest service roads and dirt/paved mountain passes.

[NothingClever]

Or would sourcing a stock 3rd member with locker in it be the cheaper way to go?

Sourcing a low-mileage diff from a salvage yard will be dramatically cheaper.

[Wanderlusty]

Sourcing a low-mileage diff from a salvage yard will be dramatically cheaper.

Are the rear axles with the locker the same in the Taco and 4Runner, or different?

[NothingClever]

Dunno, brother...good question.

[Glorybigs]

Thanks Sovereign, that's a really useful link.

With my R150F manual transmission, 4.88 re-gear and 235/85/16 tires, the outlook for highway travelling is:

4th gear @ 3,618 RPMs = 70mph
5th gear @ 3,039 RPMs = 70mph

Given that I have a FWC camper on the back, 70-75mph should be plenty fast and downshifting to 4th gear for highway inclines still has me in the supple part of the power band.

Lower gears? All gravy for challenging forest service roads and dirt/paved mountain passes.

That is a great link, but I am having trouble researching what tranny I have.
Where is the best source to find Toyota Trans model numbers?
07' Tacoma 4x4 5 speed automatic

[sovereign]

That is a great link, but I am having trouble researching what tranny I have.
Where is the best source to find Toyota Trans model numbers?
07' Tacoma 4x4 5 speed automatic

Should be the A750E (FJ-Automatic) or A750F (FJ-Automatic).

Confirm by testing your current specs on the road at determined speeds.

[NothingClever]

Jed has had some time to work on my truck again.


The Alcan springs arrived just last week, and we installed them on Monday. We also completed the initial front & rear gear break-in procedure for you. I checked both differentials at the upper pinion bearing after the break-in with an infrared digital temperature gauge, and both diffs were in the ideal temp range (the gears/bearings run exceedingly hot initially, especially if care is not taken to break them in correctly).

<deleted notes on suspension work>

On another bright note: I am very pleased with the new gearing. The 4.88's made a significant improvement with the handling/acceleration. The vehicle pulls the load much easier now, accelerates nicely, and allows for much quicker clutch engagement from a stopped position.

[Trail100]

That is a great link, but I am having trouble researching what tranny I have.
Where is the best source to find Toyota Trans model numbers?
07' Tacoma 4x4 5 speed automatic

On your door VIN sticker at the bottom the transmission in your vehicle is listed.

[NothingClever]

Just picked up the Taco and FWC Fleet camper from Armorology and drove it for the first time since the regear to 4.88 and it came out super.

1st gear is perfect for starting on San Francisco hills now without having to slip my clutch excessively.

Highway travel came out better than the calculator figured it (probably more a factor of my flawed input to the online calculator)....I'm right at 2,500rpms when travelling in 5th gear at 70mph.

Alcan springs are butter. The Firestone Ride-Rite air bags are now for load-leveling and fine tuning versus carrying the load.

[sovereign]

Just picked up the Taco and FWC Fleet camper from Armorology and drove it for the first time since the regear to 4.88 and it came out super.

1st gear is perfect for starting on San Francisco hills now without having to slip my clutch excessively.

Highway travel came out better than the calculator figured it (probably more a factor of my flawed input to the online calculator)....I'm right at 2,500rpms when travelling in 5th gear at 70mph.

Alcan springs are butter. The Firestone Ride-Rite air bags are now for load-leveling and fine tuning versus carrying the load.

Going downhill? Are you sure they put different gears in? :) You should be running 3039 rpm at 70mph per the calculator, add another 100-150 rpms for the added weight and reduced aerodynamics due to the camper. A stock 5-speed V6 off the lot with 4.10s will be @ 2647 rpms at 70 mph...

I am assuming you are using GPS to confirm? Have you corrected the speedo error yet?

[Jeff Wanamog]

Very strange. The math is showing that the R&P's are closer to 4:56.
But if you like it that is all that matters. 3000 RPM's is a little high for fuel mileage.

Jeff

[sovereign]

Very strange. The math is showing that the R&P's are closer to 4:56.
But if you like it that is all that matters. 3000 RPM's is a little high for fuel mileage.

Jeff

Actually 4.10s.

But I think he has not corrected the speedo yet.:costumed-smiley-007

[NothingClever]

:oops:

You are both correct...I haven't checked speed with a GPS.

[sovereign]

:oops:

You are both correct...I haven't checked speed with a GPS.

This may help if you decide to correct the speedo error: http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141699

[NothingClever]

Thanks, Sovereign.

Call me lazy...I think I'll re-map my driving habits to a GPS :sombrero: .

[sovereign]

Thanks, Sovereign.

Call me lazy...I think I'll re-map my driving habits to a GPS :sombrero: .

Since you have a 5-speed you can probably get away with it. Running an auto it is necessary to correct the error as it inputs to the ECU and affects the shift points.

[NothingClever]

OK, road test complete (albeit with a cell-based GPS application).

Indicated speed: 76 mph
GPS indicated speed: 63 mph
RPM: 2750

Indicated speed: 72 mph
GPS indicated speed: 60 mph
RPM: 2600

Very happy.