VOLVO TGB Expedition Camper

[Outback]

I know we have a few members here who actually own Volvo 6X6 C304 and 4X4 C303 Ex Military vehicles. I would like to start a thread here on how they are planning on modifying there vehicles into Expedition campers. I would also like to hear from anyone who can help out with ideas and such. My plan is to within the next year purchase and start to build up one of these great vehicles. My shop is almost completed (after winter) and she will need her first land based vehile build up to break her in! Thanks for any input.

[M.Bas]

I have absolutely no idea how I'm going to fit everything in.
Have to wait on the official Dutch registration because of a weigth restriction (3500kg) that I'm allowed to drive.

So once I know the official weigth I know how much load capacity I have.
But I do know I'm allowed 10% overweigth (so max weigth is 3850) in The Netherlands because of an original max weigth of 4400/4500kg. But that amount of overweigth will get me into trouble in other countries.

Some quick ideas one needs to do:
-Sound proofing the cab
-Less noisy tires/more modern tires
-Sound proofing the cab
-Install some radio/cb/etc, good luck finding 24V equipment, or use an 24V->12V converter.
-Some more sound proofing
-Did I mention doing something about the noise?

[Outback]

I am very use to Sound deadoning cabs. I have a snowcat business and they are high vibration machines! One company I have come to love is DB Engineering. I will look up there web address in a bit. I am sure your country has a simular company. Another product that I will get to know soon is a spray in foam insulation. It helps to water proof plus reduces vibration and insulates. One plan I do have is to completely gut the entire interior cab walls. I will then spray on a bed liner type material from another company. This is equal to any spray in bed liner out there and costs me $139 to do the area of a standard 8 foot truck bed and sides. I have three kits waiting for one of my new snowcats this summer. Anyway my plan is to first spray the inside of the walls, ceiling and floor with this product. Then run all of my wiring. Once the wiring is done then spray the inner walls with the spray on foam insulation. then of course install new inner wall material. Not the peg board stuff! I have not looked for this material yet so I wont know until after I get the vehicle. I currently use a 1/4" thick board I use on the inside of my snowcats. Its pure white and is easy to clean up if needed. BUT this wont work for my color scheme. I most likely will use 1/4" ACX plywood covered in the same material I will cover the seats with. 100% cotton canvas type material. Not sure yet but thats a start at least. As far as electronics I will install a Panasonic Toughbook lap top and mounting stand in the cab. I will hook up a GPS sytem to this so I can use the screen as a GPS unit. A CB and 2 meter radio power supply for both run off a seperate battery source. Im sure someone has a better idea on the electronics but this is just a place to put ideas on screen for now. ANYONE who has a better idea(s) please type up!

[Outback]

So far we have killed the main source of noise on these machines Vibration. By spraying the bedliner we have reduced the vibration created noise drastically. We have also sealed off the inside with a water tight seal. No leaks! Spraying in the Polyurethane foam we have now insulated the cab with about 1" of insulation. Thats about an R-7 worth of insulation! This will really help reduce in cab heat and cold and allow the RED DOT airconditioner and stock heater to work more efficiently. Thats at least a begining.

[Outback]

TIRES! Now here is a subject we all love to talk about! I really like the new BFG GOODRICH new Mud T/As! BUT they dont last very long. I suspect about 20,000 miles. At least that is what I found on my 1 ton Dodge work truck. The older style BFG mud tas work really good. Not great like Super Swammpers but good. They also last a long time. GOODYEAR has a new MT comming out next month. I will try a set out to see how good they are off road and how long they last. Since this is a Overland vehicle with my family in it I dont plan on doing anything to crazy but still want the ability to transverse some serious obsticles if the need arises. The fact that it is a 6x6 will greatly help here especially when the axles are all locked up if needed. I think either s set of BFGs or GOODYEARs should do the trick. I hope the new GOODYAERs work better than the old style and last longer. I will most likely throw a set of these on first. Oh and load range E of course. I will also install a set of the Stuan internal beadlocks.

[Outback]

As far as running at or above Gross Vehicle Weight Rating I would advise against it. Well at least over it that is. Weight is our biggest enemy. I carry in Mountain House dehydrated food. Yes you need water to make it but it still cuts down on weight and tastes great to boot!:wings: I like to run pretty much everything I run when I back pack plus a few extra items like a 2 burner stove and some extra pots and pans but not to much. Sometimes less is more. The weight I like to carry is water and fuel. Those are the two heaviest items we need to carry. Everything else needs to be as light as we can make it. This will help you as well when it comes to foriegn country rules for weight limits.

[Outback]

To continue on with the build.

When I can I will dissasemble the leaf packs. I will bead blast the individual leafs and then ground and round the front and rear edges. There is a company that sells a paint that helps the leafs slide easy over each other. I will repaint them with this paint. By grinding and smoothing the edges this helps keep them from dragging on each other. This will help the vehicle ride smoother and articulate better. Every little bit helps. If the leafs are worn out or have lost there bow then I would get a new set made up at National Spring. After the springs, a nice set of new shocks. Bilstiens with remote resevoirs would work very nicely. From what I am told spare parts for Volvoes are made for 25 years after end of production of the vehicle. I am sure all the bushings are readily available. All the bushing will be replaced as well. I like real rubber bushings over polyurethane bushings or even the graphite impregnated poly bushings. The stock rubber ones allow more flex but do wear out faster. Giva and take.

[M.Bas]

A very good idea about reducing contact virbrations is to replace the hard plastic (I believe) spacers between the cab and the chassis by rubber spacers.

And about the rear leaf springs, there i LOTS of movement in the springs.
The springs themselves are not attached to the axles, that type of construction makes it easier for the rear boogie to go around corners. Each axle can move about an inch to the left and right measured from centered.

[Outback]

Those hard plastic spacers were most likley a softer rubber spacer at one point in there life! I replaced some so called rubber valve stem guides on my 200 inline Ford and they were hard as plastic! The engine only had 223 hours on it at the time but was hardly ever used in it 20 year life. Rubber can get very hard over time unless it 100% Virgin rubber. Then it stay pliable all the time. YES So nice rubber spacers would really help quiet things down. Undercoating the entire bottom will also reduce the interior noise.

[FotoValpen]

Great thread!

Although I and my truck are in Stockholm Sweden I am born and raised in Doylestown, PA. How'd I get here? Answer: I married a Swedish nanny. :ylsmoke:

I am just off to bed so I will post more tomorrow but here is a link to my project as it is right now.
http://www.soost.com/valp_sidan.jpg

[URL="http://web.me.com/teddsoost/Fotovalpen_2.0/Home.html[/URL]

/Tedd

[Christian]

Hey guys!
Proud new Volvo owner from Denmark here!
Well we plan to make a completely new camper-box on our TGB1314, putting a diesel in it and so on.
The plastic connnections between the cabin and frame are plastic, not old rubber, remember this is an army truck from the 70'! And btw it is a gasser, so the engine runs pretty quiet originally.

[Outback]

That makes sense that they are plastic. They wont rott or wear out. BUT rubber ones for our purpose I think would be better. BUT thats a small matter to deal with. When the cab is off then they should be replaced. If the cab is never taken off or body then no big deal. Welcome to the thread. Have any more pics of your rig yet? I love the scetch you have on the other forum!

[Christian]

That makes sense that they are plastic. They wont rott or wear out. BUT rubber ones for our purpose I think would be better. BUT thats a small matter to deal with. When the cab is off then they should be replaced. If the cab is never taken off or body then no big deal. Welcome to the thread. Have any more pics of your rig yet? I love the scetch you have on the other forum!

Hi!
No, not yet... I thought I had found one for yu, but it went really fast, even though the papaerwork was lost...
I like the drawings too, but would love stating to build it!

[Outback]

Hi Christian,
Thanks. If you find one PM me. I also know what you mean about starting it. I just started to layout my workshop / 4 car garage I will be building this Spring / Summer. After that my Aktiv Snow Master snowcat will go in for a frame off restoration project. My Aktiv was also made in Sweden!:victory:

[Outback]

Maybe one of our Eurpean friends can help me here. I am looking for the diesel conversion company that mates a Mercedes Diesel engine into a Volvo C303 C304. What Mercedes Diesel engine is it and how much is the conversion kit. Thanks.

[Christian]

Maybe one of our Eurpean friends can help me here. I am looking for the diesel conversion company that mates a Mercedes Diesel engine into a Volvo C303 C304. What Mercedes Diesel engine is it and how much is the conversion kit. Thanks.

I'll jump in! http://www.smt.nu/default.asp?Expand=13&Display=23

The kit is for a OM603 engine as I recall, but not the ideal in my opinion though...
I think it's about 1100$

[Outback]

http://www.smt.nu/default.asp?Expand=13&Display=23


I played around with the link above and was able to get this. For some reason the above link shows a Microsoft error..... Go figure.

So why is this engine not a good candidate?

[Christian]

I have no idea why the link didn't work. your doesn't work either...
just try www.smt.nu you should be able to find it in the left menu anyway.

The thing is that that engine is not one of Mercedes best ones, it has a tendency to head-cracking and uses a lot of diesel.
This is all something I have been reading, so it is not my first-hand experience though...

Another problem is revs. Eventhough the merc engine is high-revving, I would like a diesel to rev less at cruising speed.

A third issue in my opinion is that mixing engine and gearbox might be a problem down the line, especially if you plan on exploring in the vehicle. That's why we plan on using a complete Toyota driveline and only modified (proffesionally) driveshafts.

I hope that answers your Q, but please reply with your input, the more ideas bounced around the better!

[FotoValpen]

It works for me and I even see that that have kits for putting a diesel in my laplander! :wings:

Below is copied and pasted from your link....

SMT AB
Snäckvägen 37
613 37 OXELÖSUND
Tfn: 0155-300 40, 0155-22 00 25
Mobil: 070-753 12 00
Fax: 0155-333 39
GM Pickup
GM Van
Land Rover
Mazda Pickup
Mercedes
Range Rover
Volvo 240/740
Volvo Amazon, PV, Duett och 140
Volvo C303 (TGB11/13/21)
Mercedes Benz 300D/DT (6 CYL)
Volvo Valp
VW Pickup/buss

Begagnade bilar
smt@smt.nu

Byggsats för montering av MB300D/TD i Volvo C303/C306 (TGB11/13/20).

Volvos terrängbil C303/306 (militär beteckning TGB11,13 eller 20) har som standard Volvos 6 cyl B30-motor, vilket gör den väldigt oekonomisk. Bensin-förbrukningen kan ligga uppåt 3-4 lit/mil. Mercedes 6 cyl 300D/TD passar däremot mycket bra i bilen och gör den mycket ekonomisk, de flesta är ju skattebefriade och slipper den höga dieselskatten.
Den medföljande byggbeskrivningen med bilder går mycket grundligt igenom hela installationen. Den finns också på engelska.
Byggsatsen innehåller:
- Nytt svänghjul med bult
- Adapter
- 4 st motorfästen
- Nya generator- fästen (generatorn flyttas till vänstra sidan)
- Nytt fäste för kopplingswiren
- 2 adaptrar för nya spännrullar när generatorremmen dras om
- Adapter för tempgivare
- Byggbeskrivning på 28 sidor med drygt 40 bilder( Svensk eller engelsk).

[Christian]

Just to make sure, I wasn't critizising SMT or what they make, I am just not a big fan of that engine...
- And I drive a merc as my street car... As you can se below in my sig line.

i have a C202 at my shop with a VW 2.4 diesel in it!

[Outback]

Here in the States the Mercedes 300 TD is a very popular conversion into Unimog 404s. They tend to last a very long time in the Sedans that are the Donar vehicles. I just never heard oof these issues and glad you have brought them to our attention. I wish on the other forum they spoke more english. lol It sucks not being able to read your language. Guess I need to learn Swedish. I would like to ask if anyone has done that very conversion and what they thought of it.

[Christian]

Well there are different engine dewsigns by Mercedes, the old OM617 is THE most bulletproof diesel engine in the world! But under-powered...

There are a small group of people tuning them to insane HP. A quote from such a site was something like this: "I knew the Germans had hidden the power somewhere just to see if we could find it!"

The engine I'm not that fond of is the newer and more powerful OM603(606) family.

About the forum I can see your point, but remember they don't speak my language either!
They speak swedish, and I am Danish, and writing them in Danish, the just reply in Swedish, well of course not if the are Norwegian, then they reply in Norwegian. :wings:

You can open a thread on the subject there? I would be glad to do it for you, but I am sure they will be mmost helpful if you do. Otherwise throw a few pips of your snow cats, that WILL win them over! :cool:

[Outback]

Thanks Christian,
I will post later this week on the other site when I get settled in at my new base camp. My poor German reading skills led me to believe it was the same engine in the older 300 Sedans. I should have had my wife read it since she is German. Thanks for the information.

[Christian]

U R more than welcome! :)

[Outback]

Christian,
What are the popular diesel engine conversion for the TGBs?

[M.Bas]

There are still a lot discussions going on about what diesel to put in.

The only standard swap is to a Merc 300(T)D engine, which isn't that great.
Other than that there are a variety of diesels swapped into the Volvo's.

I've heard of Nissan's, Toyot's, Isuzu, some HS2.8 engine swapped in.
Everything is possible, the only limitation is your bank account :D

[Christian]

I would'nt even call the Merc solution a standard. I only know of one swap with this. So as of now it is up to you, or others that have one, to decide...

I am going to England sunday to pick up a Toyota Land Cruiser KZJ70!!! So we have our driveline:wings:

[M.Bas]

The Merc engine has a conversion kit available.
It's the only conversion kit I know of, so I think you could call the Merc swap the "standard" swap ;)

Every other swap has to be custom made.

[Lynn]

Three pages, and only one picture????

Come on guys, post up!

[John Koles]

So far we have killed the main source of noise on these machines Vibration. By spraying the bedliner we have reduced the vibration created noise drastically. We have also sealed off the inside with a water tight seal. No leaks! Spraying in the Polyurethane foam we have now insulated the cab with about 1" of insulation. Thats about an R-7 worth of insulation! This will really help reduce in cab heat and cold and allow the RED DOT airconditioner and stock heater to work more efficiently. Thats at least a begining.
Hi Outback I am interested in more information on spray on insulation "No leaks! Spraying in the Polyurethane foam we have now insulated the cab with about 1" of insulation. Thats about an R-7 worth of insulation! This will really help reduce in cab heat and cold and allow the RED DOT airconditioner and stock heater to work more efficiently. Thats at least a begining."
I know this is an old thread but I have just bought a TGB13 6x6 and thanks to Australian Quarantine -they ripped out the pegboard lining and ruined it looking for "soil" so I am replacing the inside panels with a natural 3.5mm Kiri wood panelling and would like to use spray on insulation instead of fibre glass panels. Do you have name of any spray on insulation?
JK

[John Koles]

I know we have a few members here who actually own Volvo 6X6 C304 and 4X4 C303 Ex Military vehicles. I would like to start a thread here on how they are planning on modifying there vehicles into Expedition campers. I would also like to hear from anyone who can help out with ideas and such. My plan is to within the next year purchase and start to build up one of these great vehicles. My shop is almost completed (after winter) and she will need her first land based vehile build up to break her in! Thanks for any input.
Hi Outback I would like to share some Ideas on modifying these vehicles if any one is interested. I have just landed one after 6 years search.
John

[Christian]

Hi Outback I would like to share some Ideas on modifying these vehicles if any one is interested. I have just landed one after 6 years search.
John

Hi John!

Congrats on your purchase!
My girlfriend and I bought one a couple of months ago and have just started converting it. So we would like to join in.

Our plans are the following:

1: keeping the frame, brakes, axles ect. as they are.

2: Converting to diesel. We have just bought a Land Cruiser KZJ70 aka Land Cruiser II 3.0 SX aka bundera from '96 which we will take the engine, gearbox and transfer from.
This will give us a 5th gear and exept driveshafts all will be original parts. We believe this is a good idea for an expedition vehicle.

3: Powerassisted steering. The frame and steering box af the C30X series are somewhat unique. So our solution is to take an electrically powered steering column from a Opel or Vauxhall Corsa. This has some benefits. One of course is that we don't have to modify the frame. Another is that we don't need hydraulics. The last is that in case it fails the truck will drive like standard.
I am working on installing this at the moment.

4: Building a new camper body from fiber glass sandwich panels. The original ambulance body is too narrow to sleep crosswise and the height is just around 1.70 meters. On top of that it weighs 1.2 tons! According to my calculations our box with sleeping quarters above the drivers cabin will weigh 240 kgs.

5: New tyres! the original ones are as hard as nylon and about as round as a cog wheel. So the plan is to source some Michelin XZL 11/16. They are a somewhat larger in diameter than original. But that means that the engine will rev at 3.000 rpm at 90km/t

The above is just the rough outline of the project which will be 2 to 2½ years in the making.

Lets hear about yours?

[M.Bas]

4: Building a new camper body from fiber glass sandwich panels. The original ambulance body is too narrow to sleep crosswise and the height is just around 1.70 meters. On top of that it weighs 1.2 tons! According to my calculations our box with sleeping quarters above the drivers cabin will weigh 240 kgs.

It does not weigh 1.2 ton, at least I hope :D

The cab+chassis weigh about 2300 kg's
The sticker on my door says max load capacity 1500kg.
4500 - 1500 = 3000
3000 - 2300 = 700kg ;)
A radio box on the other hand, lots of extra metal on the inside to house all the electronics.

That the original ambulance body is to small to sleep crosswise is correct, unless you are not taller then 1.6m or so.

I am going to make a bed lengthwise.

Since there won't be much walking space left, not being able to stand up straight won't be a big deal for me.

At some point I probably will inform at a couple of companies what a custom camper box will cost, probably won't be cheap :smilies27

[Christian]

It does not weigh 1.2 ton, at least I hope :D

Well.. I think you might be optimistic there...

We weighed it when we got home on a certified truck scale and with me and the girlfriend in it weighed 3,400 kgs.

We took the box of, incl. snowchains, stretchers an misc. stuff and it weighed 2,180

So not quite 1,200 if you don't count the chains but closer to that than 700. And a lot of the ambulance bodies have taken on some weight over the years. like old ladies they have a tendency to retain water!:snorkel:

But lets see some pics?!

PORTALS RULE!

[M.Bas]

You'll have to wait for them.
But with some imagination you can figure out why I don't take pics of a recently imported car ;)

[John Koles]

Hi John!

Congrats on your purchase!
My girlfriend and I bought one a couple of months ago and have just started converting it. So we would like to join in.

Our plans are the following:

1: keeping the frame, brakes, axles ect. as they are.


2: Converting to diesel. We have just bought a Land Cruiser KZJ70 aka Land Cruiser II 3.0 SX aka bundera from '96 which we will take the engine, gearbox and transfer from.
This will give us a 5th gear and exept driveshafts all will be original parts. We believe this is a good idea for an expedition vehicle.

3: Powerassisted steering. The frame and steering box af the C30X series are somewhat unique. So our solution is to take an electrically powered steering column from a Opel or Vauxhall Corsa. This has some benefits. One of course is that we don't have to modify the frame. Another is that we don't need hydraulics. The last is that in case it fails the truck will drive like standard.
I am working on installing this at the moment.

4: Building a new camper body from fiber glass sandwich panels. The original ambulance body is too narrow to sleep crosswise and the height is just around 1.70 meters. On top of that it weighs 1.2 tons! According to my calculations our box with sleeping quarters above the drivers cabin will weigh 240 kgs.

5: New tyres! the original ones are as hard as nylon and about as round as a cog wheel. So the plan is to source some Michelin XZL 11/16. They are a somewhat larger in diameter than original. But that means that the engine will rev at 3.000 rpm at 90km/t

The above is just the rough outline of the project which will be 2 to 2½ years in the making.

Lets hear about yours?

Hi Christian,
My volvo body is the command truck version but frame and suspension motor and drivetraine is still the same --exept a small difference in gearing.
1. I agree, like you to keep the frame, brakes, axles ect. as they are.
2. I am intersted to see what is involved in converting complete motor and drive train to the propshafts to Toyota motor and drive train.There are plenty of Toyota's here in WA to plunder. I am interested in what engine mounts and gearbox mount you would need to fabricate and how close the alighnment of transferbox to propshafts would be to the originals. Also I would do calculations on speed gain you would get from 5th gear. The box shape will cause a lot of wind noise and resistance. I have to make a decision to modify original motor head to accept unleaded petrol. My unit came with a spare engine so I may have to start with standard TGB B30 motor and drive train until I have enough information to do "heart and lung" transplant.

3. I am interested in more information on your electric driven solution. I am aware there is a engineering company in Sweden that has just released a hydraulic powerassisted steering kit. It looks really well done. I should have the details in a link in my email box somewhere.
4. I like your idea of fibreglass sandwich body. I would look at using thin wood panels on the inside as part of the sandwich instead of fibreglass. It would look better and lighter than gel faced fibreglass and most probably as strong. I am using 3.5mm Kiri wood (Paulownia) which has nice texture light as balsa and strong. I have chosen 3.5mm as it the same thickness as the original pegboard and fits inside the mountining strips in cabin and main body.
I have also discarded the Wooden rail strips along the side of the body and filled holes with plastic steel. The strips serve no purpose as they are too high for standard cars to stop door opening damage. I guess if the units were parked in military compond the the strips would be relavant.

5. I have not looked into tyres as yet

I hope your girlfriend is patient and is willing to "dig in" or it could be long lonely nights for her.
My son has lost 2 fiances because they couldn't compete for time he spent doing up his project cars.

[Christian]

Hi john

2: We plan on using as many factory Toyota bits as possible. Thus making it easier finding spares overall and especially when we travel. So mounts ect. will be Toyota.
I have done some calculations and with the fifth gear and 11/16" tyres we will do 90km/h or 56mph at around 3,000 rpm.
If I were you I would not start converting the old Volvo B30 to unleaded. I would sell it of to some Volvo enthusiast who could use it in his 164 or even to a yachtsman. Some Volvo Penta boat engines were based on it.
I don't know how you calculate milage but these trucks do around 12 to 14 gallon per 100 miles. Or 3 km on the liter petrol.
Another thing is that eventhough our choice of engine only has 10 hp more than standard it has 50% more torque. this will definetly help us on hills!

3: The hydro-assisted steering you write about is simply too expensive in my oppinion. It's a great product but around 2,000 AUD is a lot! I plan on doing it for around 200 AUD.

4: We have researched a lot of options and plan on using something called Nida-core. It has been debated on this forum several times. We owe this idea to a homepage called "thesupercamper" They are on here sometimes too.
You can buy Nida-core panels readymade. They are light and very stiff. I have some samples the company was kind enough to send me and I am very impressed with it.

My girlfriend is not only patient. She is as much a part of this as me! Without her there would not be a project.
She might not be good at make-up, and she hates shopping. But she makes up for that in welding skills!:Mechanic:

We would like to see some pictures of yours and what you do to it?

-regards, Mette and Christian

[M.Bas]

Hi John!

3: Powerassisted steering. The frame and steering box af the C30X series are somewhat unique. So our solution is to take an electrically powered steering column from a Opel or Vauxhall Corsa. This has some benefits. One of course is that we don't have to modify the frame. Another is that we don't need hydraulics. The last is that in case it fails the truck will drive like standard.
I am working on installing this at the moment.


Is the picture I just saw on the TGB forum your electrical powersteering :Wow1:

That is one massive motor. Any legroom left?

[Christian]

Is the picture I just saw on the TGB forum your electrical powersteering :Wow1:

That is one massive motor. Any legroom left?

Yup!:smiley_drive:
It sits right were the padding is so plenty of room left!

[M.Bas]

:cool:

Was it easy to do?
What needed to be modified?

[Christian]

I'm not done yet so the final verdict is still to come.
But NO, it is NOT an easy job...
I would say that it'll take me at least three days all in all, testing fitting, testing again, cutting, welding, cutting welds up again, testing again, fitting re-welding, fitting, throwing the tools around, testing fitting, being baffled by what I had done the day before, fitting, cutting, welding, crying a little, giving up and go home... :eek:

Well it's not that bad. But I'll let you know how long it took in the end.

[Outback]

Hi Outback I am interested in more information on spray on insulation "No leaks! Spraying in the Polyurethane foam we have now insulated the cab with about 1" of insulation. Thats about an R-7 worth of insulation! This will really help reduce in cab heat and cold and allow the RED DOT airconditioner and stock heater to work more efficiently. Thats at least a begining."
I know this is an old thread but I have just bought a TGB13 6x6 and thanks to Australian Quarantine -they ripped out the pegboard lining and ruined it looking for "soil" so I am replacing the inside panels with a natural 3.5mm Kiri wood panelling and would like to use spray on insulation instead of fibre glass panels. Do you have name of any spray on insulation?
JK






Yes I do. Its called TIGER foam. Its made by one company from what I can tell but has several diffrent companies that sell it as there own. Tiger Foam is one of those. I believe Tiger foam is based in England. I will check here. Be right back.

[Outback]

http://www.tigerfoam.com/?gclid=CLK1yYCwvpgCFSIgDQodWF7AbA


Here it is. I would first spray the inside with a good quality spray in bed liner. If you look hard enough you can find some that have do it yourself kits. Not that expensive roll on heavy duty paint crud but real spray on bed liner. SOUTHERN POLYURETHANE has kits like this for about $135 This includes the spray gun. You need an aircompressor. Then just scuff up the surface really well inside. Then wipe it all down so no dust remains. Then spray on the bed liner. After 8 hours you can either paint it to match your trucks final color or if your going to reinstall the wall panels spray on the Polyurethane foam insulation. Trim it out then install the wood paneling. NO LEAKS and insulated! PLUS you have just killed the majority of the vibration induced noise.

[Outback]

Hope this helps.

[Outback]

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm


http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Photos/spi_070202_0292.jpg

Sorry forgot this part

[Outback]

Spray in bed liner directions from Souther Polyurethane

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Spray%20In%20Bedliners.htm


I have purchased allot of stuff from these people and I must say they are excellent in the customer service department. the owner will walk you through just about anything!

[M.Bas]

I'm not done yet so the final verdict is still to come.
But NO, it is NOT an easy job...
I would say that it'll take me at least three days all in all, testing fitting, testing again, cutting, welding, cutting welds up again, testing again, fitting re-welding, fitting, throwing the tools around, testing fitting, being baffled by what I had done the day before, fitting, cutting, welding, crying a little, giving up and go home... :eek:

Well it's not that bad. But I'll let you know how long it took in the end.
Just saw the video :drool:

[Christian]

It took a while! But it is definetly worth it! The funny thing is I actually suspected it wasn't working, no sound, no feeling of it "helping" at all... untill i realised I was turning with one finger on dry pavement... Then I took the power of and I KNEW it was working! It's really cool that it is so un-noticable in lack of a better description, no lag, no feeling of detachement from the steering or anything...

[M.Bas]

My TGB passed the inspection today, within a couple of days I should have all the papers to get met license plates. Hopefully some of those nice non reflective dark blue ones :D

Examples from Wikipedia:
Dark blue plates
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/11/Oldtimerkenteken.jpg

Regular yellow plates
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c8/Verloren_kenteken.jpg

[Christian]

We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics!


:jump:

[Outback]

we want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics! We want pics!


:jump:




yes pics pics pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[M.Bas]

Be patient my friends :D

Recieved the papers today, will be having the yellow plates made on saturday.
Not sure if I'm going to fill in the paperwork for the dark blue plates.

[Canadian Camper]

Hi I am a newbie with Volvo c2o2 that I am looking to convert into an expedition Camper. I am debating whether to build a camper for the truck or
or build an offroad trailer for behind the truck. The hope is eventually to use the Truck to travel in the American west, the Alaskan Hiway, and the Canadian North. Any pros, cons or comments at all that would help in deciding what to design and build would be appreciated.

Tks.- Canadian Camper

[M.Bas]

Both options has it's pro's and con's.

I think the biggest difference you need to base your choice on is the ability to have a basecamp and leave it their if you're going somewhere. Or having to pack everything when you're going somewhere.

You are the only one able to make that choice, since you are the one going to travel with it.

I chose the second one (local regulations was also a reason not to choose a trailer: trailers only allowed to stand on public road for 3 days, no possibility to store it on own ground here. The Volvo is classified as a regular "oldtimer van" so I have to pay road tax (which is 0,- :victory:)).
Next week I will have him inspected for "MOT" and have basicly all fluids changed, but it is going to fail the inspection.
For example on the tires. One is in very bad shape.

An other option was having a RTT installed on top of my swb Vitara/Sidekick. But I found out last year that it is just to small. I was fully loaded because of all the camping/hiking gear. So if I wanted that I had to buy a bigger car and spend a lot more money every month/day because it would become my DD (taxes, insurance, fuel, etc). Now I'm paying a lot of money having my Volvo fixxed and are going to pay a lot while driving it :xxrotflma and pay a relative small amount of money for my DD.

[Indiana Drew]

I'm not done yet so the final verdict is still to come.
But NO, it is NOT an easy job...
I would say that it'll take me at least three days all in all, testing fitting, testing again, cutting, welding, cutting welds up again, testing again, fitting re-welding, fitting, throwing the tools around, testing fitting, being baffled by what I had done the day before, fitting, cutting, welding, crying a little, giving up and go home... :eek:

Well it's not that bad. But I'll let you know how long it took in the end.

Is this your Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tHyqkgx8_k)?

[Christian]

Is this your Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tHyqkgx8_k)?


Yes!

[Indiana Drew]

Yes!
Looks like a really reasonable solution. I have seen shaft EPS units up to about $6000 US new.

[Christian]

Looks like a really reasonable solution. I have seen shaft EPS units up to about $6000 US new.

Ok!? It costed me about 160$ to build, not counting hours though! It really makes it a different experience to drive it! :smiley_drive:

[Indiana Drew]

I read back and saw it took a few days for you to get the thing complete - Were I adding PS, its the way I'd go too ... If you loose the EPS does it steer just as it did before?

[Christian]

Exactly like before. The EPS offers so little resistance that you cannot tell the difference. I tried it.
That's why we kept the original steering wheel. And because it's original...

[Indiana Drew]

Very cool - if you have photos posted elsewhere, please post the location! If I ever end up with one, it would have to have PS so my wife could drive. Of course then she would prefer an automatic transmission, too ... That brings up if an auto is added, is it better to swap out a whole engine ...

[Christian]

I have, here's the location:
http://forum.terrangbil.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=3556&PN=1&title=terrncamper
It's the swedish forum for Volvo terrängbilar. I have posted the direct link to my thread. Just look for the pics of the servo (I think it's on page 4...)

It would be very hard to fit an auto in these vehicles since the length of the drivetrain is an issue... The length of the original package is around 130 cm or 52"

[Indiana Drew]

I have, here's the location:
http://forum.terrangbil.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=3556&PN=1&title=terrncamper
It's the swedish forum for Volvo terrängbilar. I have posted the direct link to my thread. Just look for the pics of the servo (I think it's on page 4...)

It would be very hard to fit an auto in these vehicles since the length of the drivetrain is an issue... The length of the original package is around 130 cm or 52"
52" as in fan blade to the prop shaft? I have had this crazy notion about seeing how a Mazda Rotary engine/auto trans would fit in the truck :coffeedrink:
Thanks for the link to the pix!

[whatcharterboat]

I have had this crazy notion about seeing how a Mazda Rotary engine/auto trans would fit in the truck

While many would consider this absolutely crazy (especially as far as fuel consumption figures go) I once saw a Mazda 13B turbo in a 2WD Mitsubishi FE delivery truck as a replacement for the original small diesel. The pulling power at highway speeds up long steep hills was nothing short of incredible. If anyone ever says rotarys don't have any torque, I'll shut my ears from now on.

Hope this doesn't go OT.

[Indiana Drew]

While many would consider this absolutely crazy (especially as far as fuel consumption figures go) I once saw a Mazda 13B turbo in a 2WD Mitsubishi FE delivery truck as a replacement for the original small diesel. The pulling power at highway speeds up long steep hills was nothing short of incredible. If anyone ever says rotarys don't have any torque, I'll shut my ears from now on.

Hope this doesn't go OT.

How much worse could fuel consumption be? How does the economy of the Volvo 164 sedan with a B30 engine (12 - 16 MPG?) compare to a 304 with the B30 (I realize that the specs between the two B30s is not identical.) I have always read the comments about rotary engine fuel consumption. I have read the RX8 NA engine achives between 16 and 22 MPG at 232 HP. I believe the gearing in the AT is not to odd either.

Non of my questions or comments are rhetoric, I have always figured someone else who know more than I has tried a rotary or at least thought about it and concluded that there were too many reasons not to do it. I have not found anything so fare saying try it or don't try it and here is why. Of course since I don't own a 304 at this point the question is somewhat academic ...

[Christian]

I do not have anything against the idea of using a Wnakel engine. I love it when peoble think out of the box, so I say go for it!

I myself prefer Herr Rudolf Christian Karl Diesel contraption over Herr Felix Heinrich Wankels in our application though... I would dread having to rely on exotic Wankel spares in Mongolia!

[Indiana Drew]

I do not have anything against the idea of using a Wnakel engine. I love it when peoble think out of the box, so I say go for it!

I myself prefer Herr Rudolf Christian Karl Diesel contraption over Herr Felix Heinrich Wankels in our application though... I would dread having to rely on exotic Wankel spares in Mongolia!

No question the diesel has some big advantages period. Many of us on the G Wagen forums lament no modern Gs available from MBUSA in diesel. Non the less, I would likely not be in Mongolia, but it is a point well taken. The only thing about that I have considered is the Mazda rotaries way something like 150LB complete. I have no idea how easy and engine is to change, in Mongolia, but having a second complete one seems doable weight wise ... LOL

As I said, before I can go for it, I first need to decide I can aford to aquire the truck itself. My original interest was peaked as a beach/off road camper (we can drive on most of the Gulf Coast beach in Texas.) The order of retrofit would likely be:

1) Improved heat and air conditioning.
2) Insulation, seating and interior mods. Wife and kids say toilet/shower.
3) Power Steering
4) Engine/Transmition

At least planning is cheap ...

[M.Bas]

At least planning is cheap ...
Yeah, looked up some inverter/battery charger systems voor campers/boats.
A nice inverter/charger combination and all the bits and pieces costs about the same as a new set of wheels :Wow1:
And then I'm talking a set of XZL 9.00 tires...

[Indiana Drew]

Yeah, looked up some inverter/battery charger systems voor campers/boats.
A nice inverter/charger combination and all the bits and pieces costs about the same as a new set of wheels :Wow1:
And then I'm talking a set of XZL 9.00 tires...

XLZs are virtually priceless in the US as they are not imported. I read on the G forums that they are even somewhat hard to get in the EU regardless of cost.

I figure - though I have not done the math, that making 12VDC out of 24VDC will cost and that installing a generator, it would either have to run inconjunction with the engine to run air conditioning or that dual AC would have to be used to cover both front and mid cabin seats ... I gather that an air conditioning compressor and bracket could be used from a 164?

[Christian]

Take a look at http://www.trog.us/ for inspiration. That is a beautiful and mammoth build.
I have just completed a servo mod on ours and have just made a linkage system to operate the Toyota (Aisin really) R150F gearbox from the cab. Next big thing will be installing the Toyota 1KZ-T engine.

[M.Bas]

XLZs are virtually priceless in the US as they are not imported. I read on the G forums that they are even somewhat hard to get in the EU regardless of cost.

I figure - though I have not done the math, that making 12VDC out of 24VDC will cost and that installing a generator, it would either have to run inconjunction with the engine to run air conditioning or that dual AC would have to be used to cover both front and mid cabin seats ... I gather that an air conditioning compressor and bracket could be used from a 164?
For that amount of money you only get a 24V inverter/charger (one like in the OKA camper elsewhere in this subforum), 12V is a bit cheaper, but in my case a bit more complex with everything being 24V. With 24V you can also reduce the thickness of the wires. Some equipment can be a challenge tho...

Making 12VDC out of 24VDC is relatively simple and cheap, step-down converters in all sizes/prices available. I'm not planning on using a generator/aircon maybe some solar power in the future.
Haven't worked out the electrical system yet. But the big lines are visible inside my mind.

When the TGB is back from the garage I'm first going to make a 3D model to check how/where I want to fit everything.

And being an Electrical Engineer I'm surely going to make some nice schedules of the electrical part :D

[Indiana Drew]

Take a look at http://www.trog.us/ for inspiration. That is a beautiful and mammoth build.
I have just completed a servo mod on ours and have just made a linkage system to operate the Toyota (Aisin really) R150F gearbox from the cab. Next big thing will be installing the Toyota 1KZ-T engine.

Seems like I have seen the drawing for the "Trog" on some post, but I don't recall the whole blog - that is a real undertaking! I wonder if it is only to be a ride for two people or if people will be able to sit in the back with the top down? I'll have to read that when I have more time ... Is that 306 longer than the 304/GTB13? As far as I can tell, the cheapest way to get one over here in the US is to buy and import it. As long as vehicles are at least 25yrs old, no problem as I'm sure you know. I really want to find one near me to be able to have a look. I know there are Pinz and Mogs, but gather Volvos are even more rare ... Thanks for the link!

Oh and any idea about how long an engine transmision can be to fit in and still get a shaft to the TC?

[Indiana Drew]

For that amount of money you only get a 24V inverter/charger (one like in the OKA camper elsewhere in this subforum), 12V is a bit cheaper, but in my case a bit more complex with everything being 24V. With 24V you can also reduce the thickness of the wires. Some equipment can be a challenge tho...

Making 12VDC out of 24VDC is relatively simple and cheap, step-down converters in all sizes/prices available. I'm not planning on using a generator/aircon maybe some solar power in the future.
Haven't worked out the electrical system yet. But the big lines are visible inside my mind.

When the TGB is back from the garage I'm first going to make a 3D model to check how/where I want to fit everything.

And being an Electrical Engineer I'm surely going to make some nice schedules of the electrical part :D

Pretty sure living in your area air conditioning is not as needed as where I live ... :sombrero:

[whatcharterboat]

I have always read the comments about rotary engine fuel consumption. I have read the RX8 NA engine achives between 16 and 22 MPG at 232 HP.

Indiana Drew, Fuel consumption has always been a drawback with rotaries in the past and I believe Mazda went all out to address this with the new generation engine in the RX8. Obviously they had a win. Previous engines that I’ve had experience with returned similar consumption figures to a small block V8 (and with the same sort of power too).

BTW I do a lot of electrical work on 24volt trucks for use as expedition vehicles so the question of 12v VS 24v is always on my mind. If you can get everything in 24v , then stay with it . Definitely. If you want solar down the track, then don’t use 24 /12V converters if you can help it. We use some neat little Switch Mode units that are fairly efficient but as a rule > if it’s got a big heat sink with aluminium fins hanging off it don’t use it where efficiency is an issue. And with solar, it is an issue. I can usually find most gear in 24volt, especially the bigger DC loads like refrigeration and pumps. Lighting is OK too but when you start looking for options in electronics / audio / Navigation if you can get them they are usually expensive and you are more limited to what you can get.

Having the camper running at the same voltage as the truck also simplifies your charging system and gives you the security of being able to “emergency parallel” quickly and easily. Plus (as was also mentioned earlier) your cable sizes can be halved and voltage drop is less of a problem effectively giving you a more reliable system. This is the reason new trucks are going to much higher voltages in the future. 48V and I even heard of up to 72V is being considered.

However if you think you really need to have a 12v system give a lot of thought to how you intend to charge it. A separate 12 volt generator with a smart reg. Some type of 24/12 battery charger or even 24V house battery bank and mainly 24v gear with a reducer only for the 12v appliances that can’t be bought as 24v.

There is actually plenty more different combinations you could go here. My only advice is to not make it too complicated. Electronics can fail. If you have a look at what’s available in the marine industry, you’ll be surprised what you get in 24V. Most RV suppliers won’t bother stocking it

[M.Bas]

However if you think you really need to have a 12v system give a lot of thought to how you intend to charge it. A separate 12 volt generator with a smart reg. Some type of 24/12 battery charger or even 24V house battery bank and mainly 24v gear with a reducer only for the 12v appliances that can’t be bought as 24v.

There is actually plenty more different combinations you could go here. My only advice is to not make it too complicated. Electronics can fail. If you have a look at what’s available in the marine industry, you’ll be surprised what you get in 24V. Most RV suppliers won’t bother stocking it
I think I'll end up with 24VDC, an 230VAC inverter and perhaps a small 12VDC converter. But probably don't need the converter since all my (battery) chargers are 230VAC. The fridge is 12/24/230 so that no problem either.

And currently I don't have any other electronics.

Those marine guys centainly have very nice stuff :drool:
Found a Dutch manufacturer last week that makes all sorts of chargers/inverters. Their equipment is even used in ambulances, huge yachts and by the military. If it is good enough for them, it will probably be good enough for me :D But again, those things cost big money...

[charlieaarons]

[QUOTE=Indiana Drew;379947]XLZs are virtually priceless in the US as they are not imported. I read on the G forums that they are even somewhat hard to get in the EU regardless of cost.

QUOTE]

On my Michelin publication "Michelin Truck Tire Characteristics" 9.00R16 XZLs are marked as "L", meaning limited availability, which means they can be or are imported. I bought a set in the US a few years ago. I bought a set of 8.25R16 XZLs more recently. You have to LOOK hard, though, and make some phone calls to Michelin HQ.
Also; regarding Wankels, I apologize for being doctrinaire, but a petrol Wankel will never even approach the fuel consumption figure of a conventional diesel in the same application; it's not thermodynamically possible. Their advantage lies in high power to weight ratio and high rpm characteristic.

Charlie

[Indiana Drew]

[quote=Indiana Drew;379947]XLZs are virtually priceless in the US as they are not imported. I read on the G forums that they are even somewhat hard to get in the EU regardless of cost.

QUOTE]

On my Michelin publication "Michelin Truck Tire Characteristics" 9.00R16 XZLs are marked as "L", meaning limited availability, which means they can be or are imported. I bought a set in the US a few years ago. I bought a set of 8.25R16 XZLs more recently. You have to LOOK hard, though, and make some phone calls to Michelin HQ.
Also; regarding Wankels, I apologize for being doctrinaire, but a petrol Wankel will never even approach the fuel consumption figure of a conventional diesel in the same application; it's not thermodynamically possible. Their advantage lies in high power to weight ratio and high rpm characteristic.

Charlie

No worries re: the rotaries ... The thought for the Wankel was in the space savings, power to weight ratio ... No question the diesel would do some great stuff in the application. The size of the Mazda engines seemed theoretically quite appealing as I had imagined the engine areas in Pinz and Volvo C30X to be narrow. If it were possible/money no object, an MB Bluetech or the BMW diesels would make a great power plant. It has been pointed out to me that especially if I ever imagined an automatic transmission in the C30X that the length of the engine/tranny setup would be at issure ...

As far as the Michelins, I have never looked for them myself, some of the folks on the G forums say they are difficult to fine in the US in those sizes. I will have a look around for some now out of curiosity if nothing else ...

[M.Bas]

http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/20090307-IMGP1786.jpg
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/20090307-IMGP1787.jpg
2 photo's I took the day I got the C304, no license plates at that time.
On the right hand side is my Vitara/Sidekick.

As you can see, it fits perfectly in a parking space.
The tree on the left wasn't happy today, broke some branches because the only parking space left was under the tree :o

Failed the Dutch MOT, but now I have 2 months to fix the fuel filler hose, fuel tank breather hose and get me 6 new tires (2 didn't pass the inspection)...

Plans for this weekend: taking some inside measurements of the ambulance box (the ones on internet are different then the ones I took really quickly a couple weeks ago) and make some quick 3d drawings.

[Christian]

Thats a beauty!
Congrats!

Keep me posted on the tires...

[M.Bas]

At least I'm welcome to come back with the Volvo to the garage, the owner thought is was something fun/challenging/different to work on. He even had to use tools/supplies he didn't had to use in a while :D

[M.Bas]

http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/Camper.jpg
Been busy this afternoon :)

- No windows yet, have to measure the locations for them
- Back wall, right side wall and roof are made invisible
- Red square's is the service hatch for the engine, made it red to make it easy to recognise and remember me not to block it in any way.
- The small thingies on the left wall are hinges for the seatbelts (not in the correct location and missing 2), have to measure the exact locations.

The hinges on the left wall will be used to hinge the bed.
On the right side I'm going to make some seats, the table wil be made flip down style on the underside of the bed.
So when the bed is up I have a row of seats and a table, when the bed is down I will have a bed of approximitly 2.00x1.60m. The bed will "connect" to the seats to make it full size, the hinging (is that even an existing word?) bed will have a width of approximitly 1.15m, any wider is impossible due to the heigth of the roof.

[Indiana Drew]

Looks good! Is the height tall enough to stand?

[Christian]

Looking good!

What program are you using to draw?

[M.Bas]

Looks good! Is the height tall enough to stand?
If you are not taller than 1.65m then you've got a chance.
I can't stand in it because I'm 1.85m tall.


Looking good!

What program are you using to draw?
AutoCAD 2008

[Indiana Drew]

If you are not taller than 1.65m then you've got a chance.
I can't stand in it because I'm 1.85m tall.


AutoCAD 2008

Considering I am 1.82m I guess I might as well continue to consider the lower roofed version and a "pop-up" for walking around inside and so on ... :coffee:

[M.Bas]

Any one made some progress yet?
I temporarely stopped working on the 3D model since I can't finish anything I draw in it before going on holiday :coffee:

This time everything will be installed in the most basic/easy way.
Bed will probably be a sheet of plywood with a matress on top, electrical systems are going too be screwed in one of the closets, etc, etc.

So I started making a schematic diagram on how to wire everything.
Making diagrams/drawings is easy for me, doing the actual installation.... uhm well... no comments.... :D

[FotoValpen]

Wow. I really haven't been here for a while!

My Laplander is now in molecules. It all started when I lifted the body to check out the frame and to renovate the axles. One problem.... There was no frame. :Wow1:

I can write all about it here but you can read it on my renovation website and see pics at the same time.

http://web.me.com/teddsoost/Fotovalpen_2.0/Home.html

[Christian]

Hi All

Well, we have moved ahead and are installing the 1KZ-T engine as we speak! I removed the roof and cab and took out the Volvo driveline.
Fitting the 1KZ-T was like stuffing a chicken with a turkey! (I exaggerate, qactually it's bot that bad).
I have lined it up so the crank pulley is in the same location lenghtwise as on the B30 but I had to move the engine over towards the passengerside because of the dieselpump being on the drivers side. The rear transfer box flanges lines up like original crosswise. But the one for the rear driveshaft is about 12 cm further back than original. I might have to relocate the tube behind the engine.
I have made new engine and gearbox mounts, but haven't started it yet.
31288

Ps Fotovalpen I can see that you got "a few" pieces from JP, really nice guy with a lot of knowlegde and stuff, thumbs up!

[FotoValpen]

JP at jpteknik.dk is a really great guy to deal with!

The Laplander will be brand new when it is done. JP is renovating an entire body for me and it should be done and painted sometime this coming spring. I CAN BARELY WAIT! When it is done I will be driving down to him to swap the bodies. How far are you from him?

[eile]

Hi I am a newbie with Volvo c2o2 that I am looking to convert into an expedition Camper. I am debating whether to build a camper for the truck or
or build an offroad trailer for behind the truck. The hope is eventually to use the Truck to travel in the American west, the Alaskan Hiway, and the Canadian North. Any pros, cons or comments at all that would help in deciding what to design and build would be appreciated.

Tks.- Canadian Camper
To build a new Camper HT with full hight on a 202 is not so much jobb first camper for my 202 was bulided just before a new long trip, under 2 months to build 1990 and used for over 10 years of camping and now rebuilded again. This car has a intercooled turbodiesel and 5-gears
Photos and more info can be found here.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C106777/

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/uploads/new/837355.jpg [http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/uploads/new/837345.jpg

[M.Bas]

My camper build came to a grinding halt when the garage ****ud up.
The TGB was there for over a week and the only thing the guy did was swap the Studded Suregrips fot XZL's. :(
Then he didn't call me to tell me the rear carb was leaking fuel. He just went on working other cars. I also noted he scraped the frame to bare metal at the right front wheel. Probably was searching for the chassisnumber.

So I had it towed away to my place (right around the corner, like 2 minutes wlaking distance).
I noticed the brakes were still messed up. Even though he said he fixxed em.

By this time I had to decide to not go on vacation :(

The carb has been fixxed. I removed the float chamber because fuel was pouring out. Didn't notice anything weird, put it all back together and everything works fine.

Last week an uncle and me take a look at bleeding the brakes again.
The passenger side brake line was leaking (the garage changed the CV gaiter on this side). One of the brake line flanges was damaged thus not sealing properly. We fixxed that also. So the brakes should be ok now. Took a little testrun (drive forward/backward and then brake, everything looked ok).

When I wanted to take the Volvo to the Mercedes Benz dealership (they said they wanted to TUV/MOT/APK the Volvo, but they had to see it first to make sure everything was going to work out because of the permanent driven rear axles, emergency braking features etc. etc.) to have them look at it, the Volvo wouldn't engage gear and wouldn't declutch.

So right now I'm at the point of gathering intel about would could be wrong with what.

And I bought a new daily driver so I'm also a little bit out of money :P
I was going to buy a Victron Energy inverter/charger system but that seemed a little pointless when the Volvo isn't even capable of driving.

[FotoValpen]

Have you tried taking your TGB to a Volvo Truck Center? The same garage that works and sells Volvo tracktor trailers...

[M.Bas]

I tried Volvo Cars dealers and Truk dealers. None of them ever heard of the TGB's, they couldn't/wouldn't even get me a new 24V relay.

The Volvo dealer were I had the TGB unloaded from transport from Sweden told me they didn't want to see that thing ever again.
An other Volvo dealer close by is physically unable to work on the TGB, bridge is too small, overhead door is too small, not enough space in the garage to manouvre it around.
Volvo trucks dealer was unable to do the TUV/MOT/APK because benzin/diesel thing. Might be able to do this.

But the TGB is not driveable now, so it's not going anywhere :(
So if want a garage to look at it, it needs to be transported to the garage.

[FotoValpen]

How frustrating! I do not know how far you are from Denmark but there is a great guy there. www.jpteknik.dk Christian can vouch for him too.

[M.Bas]

About 6 hours driving in a regular car :P

And I think I already talked to JP before, last year in Melle.
I took some pics of his C303
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/Volvo_meeting/content/bin/images/large/20080831_IMGP1550.jpg
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/Volvo_meeting/content/bin/images/large/20080831_IMGP1576.jpg
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/Volvo_meeting/content/bin/images/large/20080831_IMGP1583.jpg
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/Volvo_meeting/content/bin/images/large/20080831_IMGP1587.jpg
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/Volvo_meeting/content/bin/images/large/20080831_IMGP1588.jpg

[FotoValpen]

That's him, great guy! How good are you as a mechanic? I can get you a DVD copy of the 2 mechanic instruction manuals. Then maybe he can set you up with the parts you need so you can make your own repairs?

[M.Bas]

If you have files not found at terrangbil.net, c303.de or the yahoogroup I would like a copy of them :D

To order parts I first need to know what is broken. And right now I have no idea, but some people are guessing something related to the clutch is gone.
And I don't like that at all.

I'm not a real good mechanic, I can do basic stuff. But my uncle was a car mechanic, he even recognised the brakes (and knew how they function) while I talked to him about how bad they were braking.
Most mechanic are like :eek: when you talk about the technical stuff found on our Volvo's :D

[FotoValpen]

Maybe worth the effort to take it to JP?

[M.Bas]

Might be worth looking at.
But transportation costs for those distances are crazy...

So if I can find cheap transportation it sure is an option.

[FotoValpen]

Question: How many weeks of vacation do you get in the Netherlands?

Is it long enough for you to put a good friend behind the wheel and for you to push? :ylsmoke:

No hotel costs as you can sleep on stretchers in the back and no gas costs either. Just food and coffee for your friend... :)

[M.Bas]

Maybe I can stuff it somewhere between christmas and new year...

I only need someone to push :violent-smiley-031:
Maybe pick up some hitchhikers along the way :D

[hikingff77]

Great thread!

Although I and my truck are in Stockholm Sweden I am born and raised in Doylestown, PA. How'd I get here? Answer: I married a Swedish nanny. :ylsmoke:

I am just off to bed so I will post more tomorrow but here is a link to my project as it is right now.
http://www.soost.com/valp_sidan.jpg

[URL="http://web.me.com/teddsoost/Fotovalpen_2.0/Home.html[/URL]

/Tedd

Doylestown? That's where I'm at! A nanny took you to Sweden! Interesting. What HS?

[FotoValpen]

Yupp! Lived first on E. Court St. then just off Burnt House Hill Rd.
Even cooler is that my friend who grew up across the street from me ended up marrying a nanny too and now lives and works in Gothenburg as the assistent manager of Hard Rock Café there. Only found that out this past summer.

[M.Bas]

A little update on the progress.

The Volvo may be parked on the streets officially now (2 weeks ago it passed it's APK/MOT thingy).
During the braking test (they had to remove the front and rear most propellor shafts to even be able to test the brakes), they were suprised by the stopping power :victory:
It's not bad at all to see a 35year old vehicle pull (front/middle/rear axle) 10,13/6,48/5,55kN of stopping power.

They had to redo some tests because the TGB hopped off the machine :D

The front axle weighed ~1420kg (allowed 1600kg)
The rear axles weighed ~910kg each (allowed 1200kg)
Thats 3240kg's with 6 Goodyear Studded Suregrip tires and a Michelin NATO profile spare in the back. And I have XZL's and they weigh a hell lot more then the Suregrips.
So I guess with Suregrips instead of XZL's it weighs ~3000kg's.

Some numbers on payload:
Weight: ~3240kg
Weight w/o Suregrips in the back: ~3100kg
Adding a driver and passenger: ~3300kg
That adds up to 200kg of payload :o
Add 80 to 100kg of battery's....
I'm allowed 3500kg by law.

On the bright side I can get a very good deal on a Victron Energy unit.

[Isle of Man]

Another TGB1314 owner with a project that is taken much longer than expected.....

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m246/manxmafia/TGBSept2009.jpg

We share many of the same plans so will tag along with you all.

[Christian]

Congrats!

Then it might be a good time to post a little update.

The 1KZ-T is in and running fine! I have just today plugged a new dash in with VDO tach, speedo, oli pressure, oil temp, water temp, volt, turbo boost and pyro. A few sensors are missing, but the rest work well with the brand new wiring.

In the shop I have 7 Michelin XZL 11.00/R16 waiting, Servo vers. 2.0 is in, hydraulic clutch, plumbing for the water-to-air intercooler done, new Flex-aLite fan, etc etc etc.
All in all a lot of hours of progress, but a looong way to go still!

[FotoValpen]

Any pics of your new dashboard Christian?

[Christian]

Any pics of your new dashboard Christian?

Yessir!
36015
36016

Although they so not show the current state, I have the key and starter button mounted too and the whole lot mounted in the car. Oil pressure, water temp, tach and turbo boost works. I still have some sensors to mount though... But all in all a great experience to insert the key, let the new glow plug controller do its job and press Start, and it just fires up and runs smooooth as silk in -5 degrees celsius (just over 20 fahrenheit).

PS: I know, no diesel runs smooth a silk, but perhaps smooth as burlap

[FotoValpen]

Sexy!

[M.Bas]

Looks great Christian.

I'm currently waiting for my 12V supply stuff to get ordered (the shop has to wait till next year because the dutch distributor is closed for 2 weeks..).
So next monday I will get to know what it's going to cost me and when it will be delivered.

I'm going to use this stuff:
Blue Sea Circuit Breaker between 24V batteries and step down converter
http://bluesea.com/files/images/products/thumbs182/7102_182x182.jpg
Some specs:
* Ignition protected - Safe for installation aboard gasoline powered boats
* Meets SAE J1171 external ignition protection requirements
* Weather Resistant
* "Trip Free" - cannot be held closed after trip
I know, not not most ideal situation but one of these things is better than an inline fuse because of the things going to be attached to the 12V.

Victron Energy Orion DC/DC converter
http://www.victronenergy.nl/upload/products/154_1.jpg
I'm going for the 24VDC -> 12VDC 30A version.
A neat little spec is that this unit can be used as a battery charger.

And the 12V distribution is going to be taken care of by a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block
http://bluesea.com/files/images/product_lines/126.png
12 blade fuses with negative busbar.

Is choose this type of fuse block because these blade type fuses are very common and easy to get.

The 12V system is going to power:
-123Ignition (electronic ignition), this is the main reason to use a circuitbreaker instead of a fuse as the protection against short circuit in the main feeder cable. You don't want something to trip your main fuse and then realise you lost your spare fuse or you already blew it. And then not be able to start the engine.
-CB radio.
-Several 12V outputs (sigarette lighter sockets) for things like GPS (when using a 12V sigarette lighter socket), phone charger, other stuff that happens to use the sigarette lighter socket for power.
-Radio, but than it might be wise to install a 12V battery.
-Rear view camera.
-GPS if not powered via sigarette lighter socket.

And offcourse everything can be shut off using switches/relays.

[Christian]

Thanks M.Bas, good to see that you are making progress too! wiring and electronics eat a lot of time right?

[M.Bas]

Thanks M.Bas, good to see that you are making progress too! wiring and electronics eat a lot of time right?
Yeah, gotta do some wire calculations too. A 40A circuit breaker is nice but the wiring needs to be able to handle it too.
And then have to figure out how to mount everything on the back wall.

[Christian]

I'll take a pic of our new "glovebox" and the back side of the dash next time I'm at the shop, just to make you feel a little better! ;-)

[M.Bas]

So next monday I will get to know what it's going to cost me and when it will be delivered.

Their supplier had the circuit breaker in stock, but the fuse block was going to take about 6 weeks :Wow1:

If I still wanted to order it... hmm, lets not do that...
The easiest and quickest solution is to just buy a 6way fuse block without negative bar and use a separate negative busbar, since the shop has those in stock.

Gotta find another source for the fuse block...

[M.Bas]

Just ordered the things at Sierra Expeditions.
Hope I wasn't to much of a PITA by ordering a version not in your regular assortment.

[M.Bas]

Today was goodie time :wings:
After a long wait, customs isn't the quickest orginisation, everything has arrived.

A pic:
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/Electrical/20100209-IMGP2652.jpg
What's in the pic:
Front left: Victron Energy 24/12VDC converter (12VDC 30A)
Rear left: Blue Sea Systems 40Amp circuit breaker
Front right: Battery clamps
Rear right: Blue Sea Systems 12 way fuse box with negative busbar

Bought the Victron in NL and the rest at Sierra Expeditions.
Thanks Wil.

Next up:
Get some insulation for the cab, cover it with wood, install electrics.

More pics:
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/Electrical/20100209-IMGP2655.jpg
I think they go great with the Volvo, a big heavy truck needs heavy duty battery clamps. And heavy they are :D

http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/Electrical/20100209-IMGP2656.jpg
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/Electrical/20100209-IMGP2657.jpg
Victron converter, puts out 30A at 12VDC

http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/Electrical/20100209-IMGP2658.jpg
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/Electrical/20100209-IMGP2659.jpg
40A circuit breaker for the cable going into the cab.
Waterproof and ignition protected, so can be used inside an engine compartment.

http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/Electrical/20100209-IMGP2660.jpg
http://www.maartenbastiaan.nl/VolvoC300/Electrical/20100209-IMGP2661.jpg
Fuse box.

[FotoValpen]

Any install pics yet?

[gregg@mail.dk]

To continue on with the build.

From what I am told spare parts for Volvoes are made for 25 years after end of production of the vehicle. I am sure all the bushings are readily available. All the bushing will be replaced as well. I like real rubber bushings over polyurethane bushings or even the graphite impregnated poly bushings. The stock rubber ones allow more flex but do wear out faster. Giva and take.

AVOID poly bushings at all costs if you plan to travel in Africa or anywhere where there arre corrogations. Corragations will destroy poly bushes faster than you can say "weapons of mass destruction"

[FotoValpen]

http://www.fmv4x4.com
Should have all you need and answer questions as well.

[tamarugo]

Hello Cristian

My name is Hugo from Chile/ South America and with my wife are thinking in buy a truck like your truck, with the same aluminum military box installed. I want to know if the swap for toyota motor works well or you will need another more bigger motor to move well the truck. That is my main worry to start whit this new project.
Depend of this, we will take a fly to Denmark to buy the truck, put in a container and send to Chile

Thanks a lot
Hugo

[Christian]

Hi Hugo

I think it does, and one big advantage is that it keeps the weight down.
I have however not driven ours much, the projetc is on hold at the moment.

I think you should go to Sweden instead, that's where they come from!

Best Regards, Christian

[Doccers]

Hello everyone, Great reading this thread, lots of info. I just picked up a 75 C-304 myself, however I have a bit of an odd problem and was hoping some of you could point me in the right direction - the steering wheel I have is non-functional, the previous owner was an artist who hacked apart the original steering wheel and custom made his own aluminum one specifically for him. He was also very, very short. I'm 6'1" and cannot raise my leg high enough to reach the brake with the current wheel, and cannot find a replacement original wheel or an adapter that would fit. Do any of you happen to know what type of adapter might work for this beast, or where there may be an original wheel for sale? I've tried everywhere I can think of with no results, and it's very annoying to have this sitting in front of my house for half a month now without being able to drive it. :(

Thanks!

[skysix]

What are the weight capacities (GAWR) of the 303 and 306 axels? Is there a difference front vs rear?

[sojourner]

Take a look at http://www.trog.us/ for inspiration. That is a beautiful and mammoth build

He's finally done some updates after over a year, very cool

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

[camperman]

Guys, someone knows interesting facts about Volvo FMX? It's pretty impressive truck. May be someone see it in action or know about it's reliability?

[sixbennetts]

Well, might as well jump into this old thread too!

Getting ready to buy one of these trucks. Thinking about having Vince Sweeney import one.

Here's what we want to do with it, add a custom FlipPac to the roof!

(Quick mock-up my son made with MS Paint program).

With a large hole cut in the rear roof, we will have standing room in the back for stove, fridge, etc., AND a huge bed over the cab!

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj66/sixbennetts/Untitled.jpg

[Hafwit]

Your roof tent idea looks interesting. There is a nice tan C303 in Santa Cruz, CA that has a Maggiolina on top--it is also for sale at this time--you can find reference to it in the sale section. You might want to check it out for inspiration.

Cheers,
Greg

[sixbennetts]

Linus Tremaine's rig IS my inspiration for my idea! Coupled with the recent FlipPac/JK Habitat action on this new to me forum, and voila!

I think it'sthe best of both worlds for the Volvo's. As long as the hinge is placed roughly over the junction between cab and rear section, and front supports are fastened to the front bumper, you should be able to get almost a queen size bed, AND a small living area below.

I'm not sure the biggest FlipPac would even be big enough to take advantage of the huge roof, so I might have to buy the hindge/torsion assembly from them and have the glass work and tentwork done locally. That is if the torsion bar would even be wide enough!

Now if I can fit a wide screen, microwave, and a Barcalounger in the back, I'd live in the damn thing down by the river!

[Hafwit]

Personally, I prefer to tow a lightweight offroad trailer with a roof tent mounted on it. If I didn't have the set up already, I might have considered something similar to your plan. After the magazine article came out showing the C303 with the Maggiolina, I tried to get Linus to share more detailed pictures of his vehicle but couldn't get him to do so. There seem to be quite a few other modifications to that vehicle that would perhaps be of interest to the group. If you have influence, maybe you can persuade him to share.

Cheers,
Greg

[sixbennetts]

I tried to get more pics, but he doesn't have many. Too bad, too. You're right, that's a very nice rig. Seems well set-up, if not a little tail heavy.

Personally, trailers are out for me. I haul them for a living, and when I retire, the only thing I wanna be draggin' is my *****!

[RMP&O]

Everything is possible, the only limitation is your bank account :D

as well as the level of your skill and the limitations with the platform. Only so many engines will fit in there.

If you haven't been on the Real 4x4 forum or seen Vince's 303 check it out....

http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/index.php?sid=f44d098254cd1c2ff60031f12b62c34a

http://www.real4x4.com/

Vince was the first guy to bring in the Volvo's and was one of the first to bring in the Pinzies. I have not been on that forum or active in the Volvo/Pinz community in a long time so do not know if Vince is still doing importation, ect.

The 303 is a very good platform to build up for overlanding. As long as you can work on it yourself, have a good parts source, are not in a hurry to get somewhere and don't need lot's of axle travel it is in my top 5 list of best truck the world has ever seen for overlanding.

Since there was some talk about engine swaps and such....

Obviously space will be the limiting factor. Not only for the area you have to work with in the engine compartment but also for things like oil pan clearance on the axle, room for exhaust and so forth. If you are taking on a swap in a C303 you shouldn't have to many issues dealing with the small things though like moving the axle for clearance or modifying the suspension to suit the other mods. I would take a long hard look at the Cummins/Isuzu diesels as well as at the smaller Toyota and Nissan diesels. Thing is you are going to want to stick with an engine that is easy to get parts for, has the power band and torque curve you want in this truck as well as tranny considerations. I myself would avoid a swap that involved mating the engine to the stock gear boxes. If it was me I would go for the Cummins/Isuzu or Toyota engine and then run a domestic tranny/t-case or toyota boxes. Correct me if I am wrong but the front axle is passenger offset and the rear is mostly centered? If that is the case a variety of Toyota or domestic gear boxes will work no problem. If suspension becomes a problem because of clearance issues and so forth, well these trucks are a ladder frame so not to big of a deal to customize the suspension to suit whatever else you are doing. The lockers are vacuum operated so very easy to adapt that over to be supplied by a new source/system. As far as engine and gear box mounts, if you are doing the motor swap you should not have an issues coming up with and fabbing those.

If it was me and I bought one, first thing I would do is make sure it is all sealed up and rust proofed. Then I would get all the mechanicals in order. Then I would kit it out for overlanding/offroading. After that I would do a few small mods like upgrade the CVs and do disk brakes all around. After that I would use it for awhile. If I decided I wanted a different motor I would look long and hard at the ones I mentioned and it would all come down to what is going to fit.

I also see a little talk about suspension in the thread...

It should be no problem at all to have Alcan or Deaver or a few other places make you leaf springs, in particular ones that will use an easy to find bushings. Or for that matter I can not see why it would be all that hard to fit a linked coil spring suspension under it, even with coilovers. One of the problems with a Pinzie and modifying, actually the problem, is you don't have a ladder frame and solid axles to work with. The Volvo this is not the case.

One thing is for sure...I would love to see a C303 or TGB with a diesel swap and different gear boxes. Not to mention one with some suspension mods. So if anyone does it or has pictures post them up! :)

[sixbennetts]

Wow, some GREAT advice above. Generally sums up all the research I have done so far.

Vince, I believe, is still importing on a limited basis, so let's no start bugging the he11 outa him! He IS the man for talking Volvo C30*.

Lets all remember, too, that the Jeep CJ 5's and 7's had the wonderful 258 inline six cyl for years, and worked great, albeit with a much lower torque curve. The Volvo has to run at higher rpm's to run similar, but if you drive it, stock, within it's perameters, I'm thinking the Volvo C303 will out perform many of todays trucks.

Has anybody ever measured a Jeep inline 6 cyl and automatic for a Volvo? I know autos are generally much longer than standards, but wasn't the Jeep auto really short?

[Doccers]

Wow, some GREAT advice above. Generally sums up all the research I have done so far.

Vince, I believe, is still importing on a limited basis, so let's no start bugging the he11 outa him! He IS the man for talking Volvo C30*.

Lets all remember, too, that the Jeep CJ 5's and 7's had the wonderful 258 inline six cyl for years, and worked great, albeit with a much lower torque curve. The Volvo has to run at higher rpm's to run similar, but if you drive it, stock, within it's perameters, I'm thinking the Volvo C303 will out perform many of todays trucks.

Has anybody ever measured a Jeep inline 6 cyl and automatic for a Volvo? I know autos are generally much longer than standards, but wasn't the Jeep auto really short?

I think the 242ci (the 4.0 liter) is shorter slightly than the old 4.2 (258ci), plus it has a much more common parts availability and it's fuel injected already.

However I'm almost positive the 4.0/aw4 transmission combo is much too long to fit into the volvo. I'll have to measure it to let you know how much longer, though. (I've got a C304 and a Cherokee with the 4.0 liter, so I can check the measurements on both).

If it'd fit it'd be a great matchup, but personally I'd still prefer a diesel. Sadly the Inline 5 cylender diesels that went into the jeeps simply isn't to be found in the US.

[Hafwit]

Since I have a C303 and am looking to make it my expo vehicle, I have been watching this forum. My vehicle was acquired as a purportedly low mileage vehicle that turned out to have probably flipped the odo at least once. The engine started to show problems soon after I got the vehicle, and not knowing the extent of the "issues" I needed to get help from my friend who is a master Pinzgauer/Haflinger mechanic, but who knew little about the Volvo. Through trial and error, we found several issues that needed correction--first it was the brakes and a huge vacuum leak, then the carbs, then I found a guy that made a throttle body injector system that would work on this application, then lengthy testing that ultimately discovered worn cam/pushrods/etc.....after a complete engine rebuild we are now seeing the light at the end of the tunnel and the vehicle is looking impressive now that it is injected. Had I known all the issues up front, I may have done a swap then, but now I'll have to see how things go with the stock (albeit TBI-now) engine.

Cheers,
Greg

[mad_as_hec]

I'll have to measure it to let you know how much longer, though. (I've got a C304 and a Cherokee with the 4.0 liter, so I can check the measurements on both).

If it'd fit it'd be a great matchup, but personally I'd still prefer a diesel. Sadly the Inline 5 cylender diesels that went into the jeeps simply isn't to be found in the US.
I would be interested to know the individual lengths of the components if possible (Engine/trans/TC)? I have a Toyota Dyna truck with the 14B-T (4cyl 3.7 turbo diesel) and a dual overdrive (10 speed H50S) transmission. Averall length of the package is about spot on 5' long (1.5 metres) before considering a T-case. Torque is fantastic between 1200-3000rpm and it redlines at 4000 although I don't feel comfortable taking it past 3500.
It has the same 6:1 diff ratio as the Volvo but is on 31.5" (7.50R16)tyres. At 110 km/h (70mph) it is doing a shade under 3000rpm. with 35" tyres it would be more like 2700rpm. PERFECT!! If it is not too long. BTW, it will sit on 110km/h all day long and wind out to 125, pushing 7000kg (15400lb) with more frontal area than the volvo. Manages 430(city)-500km(highway) (270-310miles) every 80 litre tank of diesel.
Driveline lengths for the Volvo would be appreciated.

[geckoadventure]

I know we have a few members here who actually own Volvo 6X6 C304 and 4X4 C303 Ex Military vehicles. I would like to start a thread here on how they are planning on modifying there vehicles into Expedition campers. I would also like to hear from anyone who can help out with ideas and such. My plan is to within the next year purchase and start to build up one of these great vehicles. My shop is almost completed (after winter) and she will need her first land based vehile build up to break her in! Thanks for any input.


This might help? I'm making mine for serious Jungle touring and possibly longer trips later.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/73982-Volvo-C304-(4x4)-Restore-and-fitout

[Raredog]

I'm also in the process of converting my TGB 13 to overland camper/expedition rig :)

105612
105613
105614
105615

The build can be followed here:
http://tgb13.raredog.dk/

(you have to live with the bad english as i am from Denmark ;-)

[Honu]

nice looking volvo :)



I'm also in the process of converting my TGB 13 to overland camper/expedition rig :)

105612
105613
105614
105615

The build can be followed here:
http://tgb13.raredog.dk/

(you have to live with the bad english as i am from Denmark ;-)

[Raredog]

Thanks :)
The camper part is almost finished:
106049

(the strange looking drawer under the bed is a Waeco compressor fridge:))

[Hafwit]

That is very nice. Did you remove the pegboard or cover it up? Are you concerned about water intrusion and rust if it can't breathe? I was told it would be a mistake to remove the pegboard for this reason.

Thanks,
Greg

[Raredog]

Thank you :)

In some places its just the pegboard covered with leather, others panels have been replaced with 5mm plywood.

Its a alu-zink body so it will not rust very easy and i can't see how it should be a problem if it sealed from leaks, all other cars is made this way?

But i might remove it from time to time to check up on it :)

Do you have some pictures of your 111?

[Hafwit]

Right now my truck is being worked on with a trailer light converter and a few other things being installed. When I get it back, I'll be happy to post some pictures. The inside is stock for the moment other than for new front seats. That will be an upcoming project.

Cheers,
Greg