Project: Doitall Dodge

[Metcalf]

Thank you!

I have some plans for a new rear bumper. It just isn't at the top of the list yet. I have been toying with building it to house a rear mounted winch. That idea then has started to evolve into having a rear mounted winch be able to pull front AND back without having to have a multi-mount ( something like the Foers Ibex Vector winch system )

[my1stcummins]

Wow, I just looked up that center-mounted winch system, pretty ingenious. So you don't want to go that route?

[Metcalf]

I would love something like that, but there are definitely some design challenges while trying to build a system like that into my Dodge chassis.

[my1stcummins]

Aw c'mon, if it was easy, it wouldn't be fun trying and making others jealous.:ylsmoke:

[Metcalf]

Oh don't worry, I don't usually take the easy way out too often....stupid sectioned fenders for 38" tires with no lift!

[DT75FLH]

I think with the black rims it would look good with the lower 1/4 body line painted black (rockers)....then the blister on the hood.

you might have to start locking it up thou..:sombrero:

[Metcalf]

I'm gonna do some photo shopping of the truck to see what to do with the colors. I was thinking instead of painting the lower part of the body....maybe a long vinyl sticker or something? Maybe a monochrome background scene or design? The vinyl would also help protect the lower part of the body....

I do lock it....for other reasons :)

The truck is all assembled and driving again. I still need to get a new grill shell and some other bits to finish off the front. I have one little part of sheetmetal to paint under the grill area, but that will have to wait till I put the new grill shell on. I also need to weld the tow points to the bumper mounts in front and repaint the entire front bumper black again ( I got a little overspray on it...ok....a lot! )

Its starting to look like a respectable truck now I think. Hopefully I get my tires and wheel in soon ( and do the grill ) so I can do a little photo spread over the 4th of July or something....

[SChandler]

Sounds like you are making some good progress and nearing the finish of the tedious stuff. I'm looking forward to seeing the final product. :elkgrin:

[Metcalf]

It doesn't seem like it sometimes! Having the truck body ( camper shell excluded ) all the same color is a big milestone. I will probably tinker with the truck forever, but this was probably the biggest single mod on the truck. After stretching/sectioning the fenders getting the entire truck the same color took a long time. If I was going to do it again ( on a 1st gen ) I would probably use a factory dually bed with the fenders removed in the rear. This leaves a HUGE opening for the tire. In front I would try and use a set of the Trailer Products 'Walker Evans" style fiberglass fenders. The front fenders would still need an support structure and inner fender made.

All in all, if I was going to do another truck it would just be a 3rd gen Dodge. 37s will fit on those with just a touch of lift and moving the axles a hair.....ZERO body work.

This old girl is pretty neat though. Its just so simple, mechanical, etc. Its also a total one off now with the stretched/sectioned fenders. Wtih the new tires and wheels it should look pretty decent....in a mad max kinda way.

Now I can start to work on the smaller stuff.....new seats, stereo, interior, etc.

[DT75FLH]

looking forward to the pics with the new tires.

[Metcalf]

I got some new accessories in the mail today.....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0051.jpg

EGT, fuel pressure, and boost...

Now....where to mount these dang things?

[huntsonora]

Now....where to mount these dang things?

Pillar?

Truck is looking great!

[Metcalf]

The pillar is an option for sure. I am hesitant to mount them there because of the 'wanna race' diesel truck scene in the southwest. Pillar gauges generally attract a lot of attention.

My most recent thought was to replace the 'information' cluster above the climate controls with a 3 gauge mount. I think I could french in some modeling plastic sheet pretty easy and paint everything so it looked pretty factory. I would lose the indicator lights for ABS, wait to start, and water in fuel unless I spliced in some new bulb holders and moved them somewhere.

Does anyone know if a small indicator light ( regular bulb style ) that is panel mount and you can add a lighted label of some kind to?

[Bogie]

I'm a fan of under dash mounting bu I use the larger 2-5/8" gauges. check out K-4 (http://www.k-four.net/Product.aspx?pid=118) Electrics for indicator lamps

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uLpD9Vmz5qA/StTrCskt1XI/AAAAAAAABFo/oPjP1hgQa0U/s800/IMG_0464.JPG

[huntsonora]

The pillar is an option for sure. I am hesitant to mount them there because of the 'wanna race' diesel truck scene in the southwest. Pillar gauges generally attract a lot of attention.


I love your truck but the last thing it reminds me of is a race truck:sombrero:

I like the pillar because they are easy to see and out of the way

Drummond

[Metcalf]

I know it's not a race truck, but all the diesel heads around here don't seem to be able to make that connection....

Pillar gauges also say ' look in my truck because its pretty modded', which is attention I don't like. And yes, you can still see in the windows really easy. Maybe I should lift it? :sombrero:

Bogie,

Thank you SOOOO much for that link. Those indicators will be perfect I think!

[my1stcummins]

Pillar gauges really attract that much attention?:Wow1:
Maybe just get a bumper sticker that reads Slow and Steady.

[Metcalf]

My wheels showed up yesterday....tire are suppose to be here today or monday! :drool:

Does anyone know how to get the pushrod for the clutch out of the clutch master cylinder? I have been having problems with the bushing system that connects to the pin on the pedal. I made a quick steel bushing last night and that helped, its being held in by some duct tape....

I need to make an adjustable and replaceable pushrod with a small heim joint or something. Then I need to replace the pin on the clutch pedal, it has a large gouge on one side.

Without the rigged up bushing I could hardly get the clutch to disconnect enough to shift!

[Rot Box]

I had the same bushing problem with my 92. I ended up having to weld up the shaft and grind it back down smooth because the groove in it was so deep :Wow1: I was able to get away with a home made bushing, but I want to say the dealer has that rod end but I cant remember... Its been too long ago.

As for the gauges I really like being able to watch the pyro and keep my eyes on the road. My Pyro and boost are on the steering column and I like them there. Here's a pic of mine (lots of clutter I know LOL :snorkel:)

http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx148/alaskanidi/Alaskan%20Camper/DSC01282.jpg

[Metcalf]

I love the smell of new tires in the morning....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0054.jpg

Excuse the mess....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0053.jpg

At least 1-2" taller than the old 325s unmounted. I would suspect with air on a rim they will be just about perfect....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0052.jpg

The tire and the tread are MUCH more beefy in person! The tread is also nice and deep at 21/32nds.

Me like.....

[Steinbruchsoldat]

Now get those things mounted and post some pics. Can`t wait to see them mounted...

[Metcalf]

I'm working on it....

I have a few things to do first.

-I need to check the alignment to make sure its close.

-I'm thinking about using some 3m weatherstrip adhesive on the beads. The dodge doesn't need bead locks really, but having a little extra insurance in the sand and snow when running low pressures would be nice. These tires are going on slightly wider rims than before too. The Michelin's where just fine....even at LOW pressures I shouldn't probably talk about.

[Metcalf]

Ack....I ordered a lot of stuff today. Dang tires got me more motivated I guess...

I have a new grill shell, turn signals, headlight bucket, and grill insert coming.
Then I ordered some bronze ampco 18 kingpin bushings.
Then I got a few odds and ends from McMaster like some ABS plastic to make a gauge mount, some heavy thick washers for the new kingpin bushings, and a neat 4" plastic plug to make an HVAC clean out!

I am going to try and get the tires mounted on the rims tonight after work.....

Dang never ending project truck!!!!!!

I really need to do something better with the clutch pushrod master cylinder clutch linkage.....

[JeepN95YJ]

I'm thinking about using some 3m weatherstrip adhesive on the beads.

Do you know anyone who has tried this? How did it work out? Especially when time to change the tire?

[Metcalf]

Its fairly common with the 'wheeling group I run around with. While it does help, its not ultimate. The report from the last deep snow run indicated that it didn't hold as well as most thought it was going to. Dismounting the tire really isn't a problem. The stuff breaks at the bead easy enough...though needing more force than normal.

I ran the black bead sealant for years on all my rims. I had pretty good luck and VERY minimal bead problems.

[bfdiesel]

I have used grease to seal tires, but they can become glued on. Quite a bit harder to break the bead after that.

[teleturns]

I ran the black bead sealant for years on all my rims. I had pretty good luck and VERY minimal bead problems.

I have also used the black bead sealant for years with great results. I would think the bead sealant would work better than weather stripping.

[Metcalf]

The 3m weatherstrip adhesive is a lot stickier than the black bead sealant. I don't know if its worth it though.....

[Metcalf]

Holy tires batman!

I bolted up the tires after work today. The old ones where done! I got one out of four that will make a good spare. If anyone needs a big spare or needs 3 Michelin XMLs and some spare 16x8 aluminum wheels let me know.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0055.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0056.jpg

I did a simple alignment check and was able to dial in the toe a little better. Overall its pretty decent. I have some new kingpin parts coming and will be doing a little work to make the front axle a little less like it has 300,000+ miles on it.

The old tires where 132lbs ( the one with the most tread )
The new tires and wheels where 127 lbs, so not much change there. The steel wheels where pretty dang heavy.

After putting the old tires back in the bed I am doubting my full size spare plan. These tires are BIG!

Here is what the truck looks like with the new tires and wheels. Please excuse the not perfectly straight body and torn up grille shell ( new grill shell coming! )

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0060.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0058.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0059.jpg

The new tires are LIGHT YEARS ahead of the old ones! They are quieter, track better, have better steering response, the steering is lighter overall, and they are freaking cool looking! They are about 2" taller than the michelins! They are basically a true 39" tire! I just ran out and measured. On the front of the truck at 45psi they are just a hair over 38" tall!

I'm running 45psi in them, so far so good. They still ride very decent at that pressure. They sure roll a lot easier than the XML's. I'm able to roll the truck back and forth in the driveway pretty easy buy just using the lugs on the tires.

I didn't balance them yet. I ran two on the balancing machine when I got them mounted. The machine called for 14oz each! I didn't want clip on weights on the rim edge and I didn't want THAT many stick on weights. I decided to try them unbalanced. So far, up to 70mph, I have no shake or shimmy. The truck will track straight with hands off the wheels. I may add some ceramic tire balancing beads if they develop a shake. So far so good....WAY better than the worn out XML's.

I will keep updating on the tires as I get more miles on them!

[SChandler]

Looks good Metcalf!:luxhello: If I didn't know any better, looking at the pictures, I'd think the truck had 35" tires. It looks very proportionate now (at least, it does in the photos in your last post).

I really wish they made the radial Maddog's in a 35" size, I'd be looking to get a set for my truck when I get ready to go to that size in a year.

[Metcalf]

Thanks!

Its deceptive how 'stock' the truck looks. The big fender opening and the big tires along with no lift are a golden combo. I have tons of clearance under the diffs and the truck isn't sitting up so high you can't get in. The wind resistance, for a brick, is also minimized since the suspension is stock.

I need to get some pictures with the misses standing next to it. That gives it some sense of scale.

Bottom line the truck is only maybe 1-2" taller than a stock 3rd gen dodge. I will try to get some picks next to my co-workers. Its on 285s and I think my truck isn't any bigger at all.

[bftank]

new tires look great metcalf! i am working towards the same idea on my f350. going to try the goodyear 37's on h1's with just moving the axle forward an inch. thanks for the inspiration.

i may not post in your thread much, but i have watched with approval since i registered

[Metcalf]

Thanks, no problem.

Do you have a thread on your ford going yet?

[Metcalf]

So the snowball is rolling and the gears are turning......

Swap to 3.73 or 4.10 gears?

Swap in a 6spd? ZF6, G56, or NV5600?

Current G360 gear ratios....
5.53, 3.017, 1.60, 1.0, .77

NV5600
5.63, 3.38, 2.04, 1.39, .73
G56, AD code
6.29, 3.48, 2.10, 1.38, 1.0, .79
G56, AE code
594, 3.28, 1.98, 1.31, 1.0, .74
ZF6 ( ford and GM )
5.79, 3.30, 2.10, 1.31, 1.0, 72

I need some opinions....

[gahi]

OH Crap! Here come the while-your-in-there's! ARB's, HiPo Clutch... What's your top end speed like now? How fast do you want to be able to run on the Highway?

[Metcalf]

Currently the truck will go 75-80 in 5th no problem. That is only about 2000rpm.

I don't want to gear the truck too low. I like to be able to run the interstate at speed. Basically the truck currently needs a 1.5 gear to start in, a 3.5 gear would be nice, and a 4.5 gear wouldn't be a bad idea either....but the existing 1-5 are still pretty useful in there own right, the gaps are just too big.

[lstzephyr]

Truck looks awesome! We should have gotten some pictures with my truck next to it for scale the other day. I had all my camera equipment and never even thought about it. It was nice to meet you and thanks again for the hospitality!

Dude, do the 3200 spring already!! There is your .5 gears. It took my truck from too much gap to no problem what so ever. I even like the low 1st gear now too.

[zukrider]

zf6, with the 3.73. should be real good. get you better across the board, and the taller OD will help to compensate.

im jealous!

[gahi]

yup, I'd gear for your targeted top cruising speed. Your going to be into it some serious $$$ when you start swapping gears and transmissions. I guess I dont really know how it drives though, cuz I have the slushy auto. I think it has .6? overdrive, but a nonlocking TC so I'm always loosing a little to that too.

[bftank]

no build thread on the ford yet. gathering pieces for a bumper and then we will see.

for trannies i vote none of the above. it's time to step up to the fuller fso6406 6 speed with od and 14" clutch. and a divorced dodge 205.

that is the tranny i am looking for to put behind my cummins, not sure what the cummins is going in yet though.

and i second doing the 3200# spring, it's cheap and something that needs done anyway

[Metcalf]

I finally fixed the clutch linkage! It should last another few hundred thousand miles now.

First you have to take the clutch pedal out. There is a little 3/8" bolt on the passenger side of the pedal pack. This holds the pivot shaft in the pedal assembly. I used a stubby 1/4" drive 3/8 socket on the nut side and a 3/8" end wrench on the bolt side which is hidden kinda up behind the pushrod to the brake master cylinder.

You need to disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal pin. Mine was being held on with some duct tape....so that didn't take me too long.

I used my finger to get the pivot shaft started from the drivers side of the pedal pack. You don't need to completely remove the pivot shaft, you only need to move it back far enough to get the clutch pedal to drop out. Mine came out pretty dang easy. Make sure to keep track of the two nylon bushings for the clutch pedal.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0063.jpg

I think my pivot pin was a little worn....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0064.jpg

Once the pedal was out I attacked it with a .040 cut off wheel on the the grinder. In about 2-3 minutes I had it cut apart. The original pin just dropped right out. The hole was just slightly bigger than 1/2". I used a 1/2" shoulder bolt to replace the factory pin, I think it was 1.25" long.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0067.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0069.jpg

I rigged up a clamp to keep the shoulder bolt perpendicular to the pedal. I did this with a c-clamp, a big socket, and a nut for some working space.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0071.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0072.jpg

Next I used the MIG welder to goober up some weld on the backside of the pin mounting surface. The clamp was successful at holding everything in place while I welded.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0073.jpg

While I waited for the clutch pedal to cool I chopped off the old worn out end of the clutch pushrod with a small hacksaw under the dash. You could remove the clutch master cylinder but then you have to bleed the system again. It took like 5-10 minutes one you squiggle into position under the dash.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0075.jpg

Buy that time the pedal was pretty cool so I reinstalled it. Make sure to put the pivot bushings back in.

I then used a 1/2" female rod end to make the new pivot. This slides right on the shoulder bolt with a pretty good .010 fit. I inserted a 1/2" set screw into the bottom of the rod end. This allowed me to set the position of the pedal and account for the change in length of the hacked off push rod.

This is what it looks like assembled.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0077.jpg

Once I got everything mocked up like I wanted, I disassembled it and filled the female rod end with epoxy.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0078.jpg

Then I reassembled everything using a paper towel to keep most of the epoxy in the rod end when the clutch push-rod was inserted. I kept everything in the right position and counted to 600, that gave the epoxy time to set up enough it wouldn't run.

Then I assembled everything like this. I used a small spring, a washer, and a 3/8 nut on the end. I will replace the regular nut with a locknut if everything holds up for a few months. I may replace the spring with wave washers or a bushing if thing move around at all.

Here is what it looks like under the dash all finished up!

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0079.jpg

[Metcalf]

Truck looks awesome! We should have gotten some pictures with my truck next to it for scale the other day. I had all my camera equipment and never even thought about it. It was nice to meet you and thanks again for the hospitality!

Dude, do the 3200 spring already!! There is your .5 gears. It took my truck from too much gap to no problem what so ever. I even like the low 1st gear now too.

yeah, it would have been interesting to get some pics, next time for sure!

I did measure Istzephyr's front springs compared to mine. His springs (2.5" skyjackers? ) sit 1/2" taller than mine, measured from the fender edge to the the hub. So, with my big thick springs and their packaging limitations. I am effectively running my crossover steering conversion in the same packaging as factory springs...or REALLY close to it.

Its funny, my truck has less lift but WAY bigger tires! Istzrphyr was visiting before I got the new tires on. He was also loaded with gear so I don't think its a fair comparison :)

[Metcalf]

yup, I'd gear for your targeted top cruising speed. Your going to be into it some serious $$$ when you start swapping gears and transmissions. I guess I dont really know how it drives though, cuz I have the slushy auto. I think it has .6? overdrive, but a nonlocking TC so I'm always loosing a little to that too.

I'm going to try and start with the 3200rm spring.

The transmission swap would definitely be expensive. That is probably down the road a bit. I will try and keep an eye out for some cheap parts, but it will probably be a bit for sure.

Now gearing on the other hand. My rear brakes are getting pretty spent and I have had my eye on using a 2003ish GM 2500 rear axle. They are the last of the old style 14-bolts BUT they come with factory rear disc brakes from GM. The width is suppose to be 67" would would add 1" per side over my Dana 70. This would make the rear axle match the front axle almost perfectly. The problem is that they only offered 3.73 or 4.10 gears in that axle. They also don't make 3.54 aftermarket 14-bolt gears.

The front gears are not a super big deal. 4.10 D60 gears are dime a dozen in most PNP yards. I have been toying with the idea of using Dana 70 gears in the font Dana 60. This could also allow me to use my existing rear Dana 70 powr-lok if I rebuilt it with 35 spline side gears in the front axle. That would be a nice little traction bonus for not much money....

I'd love to do something like ARB lockers front and rear but I don't know if I can justify the money.

[lstzephyr]

Yep, my springs are 2.5 skyjackers. The surprising thing to me was that both of our trucks hoods were even in the parking lot. I did have a little bit of gear in it though, about 1500-2000 lbs, so my front end may have been getting pushed up a bit. 31s compared to 38s too.

That is a cool idea about the power-lok. I would be very interested in how to put a dana 70 lsd in the front dana 60.

[Metcalf]

Yep, my springs are 2.5 skyjackers. The surprising thing to me was that both of our trucks hoods were even in the parking lot. I did have a little bit of gear in it though, about 1500-2000 lbs, so my front end may have been getting pushed up a bit. 31s compared to 38s too.

That is a cool idea about the power-lok. I would be very interested in how to put a dana 70 lsd in the front dana 60.

Jantz engineering makes a set of adapter bearings that let you use a Dana 70 ring and pinion on a D70 carrier in a low pinion Dana 60.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=914583

If you start with a 1st gen powr-lok you have to convert it from 32 to 35 spline. The parts to do this are fairly common. Its basically just side gears and a clutch kit.

I had about 500-600lbs in the back of mine that day too with the tires and wheels.

[lstzephyr]

At some point or another I really want to put a detroit locker in the back axle, or add a powr-lok to the front. Either one, or both would be good. I'm a fan of traction aids, I don't think I can ever have too much traction!

Here are those pictures I was talking about the other day for gauge setups. I'm not sure who did this, they are just some pictures I downloaded from somewhere.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x183/lstzephyr/newdash.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x183/lstzephyr/lightsondash.jpg

I think this is the way to go with door panels too. Flat sheet of aluminum or steel, with some felt and voila, better door panels. Mine are constantly falling off, the old clips are just too worn out.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x183/lstzephyr/1002or_06_o1989_dodge_power_ram_w150interior.jpg

I need to find some mirrors like you have too. Silly old dodge parts keep falling off cause some crazy kid takes it off into bfe.

[Metcalf]

I agree, more traction is better than less traction. I don't really buy into the school of thought where people say automatic lockers will get in you in trouble. It takes a different driving style sometimes, and perhaps paying more attention, but its not going to cause you to burst into a ball of fire and die.

I love my rear powr-lok. I think they would make a GREAT front and rear setup.

Detroit lockers front and rear WITH a twin stock conversion on the NP205 would be another really good setup. Being able to run front wheel drive or rear wheel drive only, especially in low would be really handy.

ARBs would be great too, but boy are they expensive! You can almost install two detroit ( or other automatic lockers ) for the price of ONE ARB locker.

I have thought about making a set of door panels for sure. I kinda like having the arm rest though. I was thinking about making a set out of some marine plywood and having them coated in bedliner! My 1985 door panels are ok. I replaced most of the clips or modified them with some pliers to hold a little better. I also added some dense foam weatherstrip around the edges to keep rattles down.

[JeepN95YJ]

I don't really buy into the school of thought where people say automatic lockers will get in you in trouble. It takes a different driving style sometimes, and perhaps paying more attention, but its not going to cause you to burst into a ball of fire and die.

LOL! You couldn't be more right! Internet myth always make me laugh. I'm glad I put my lock-rites in my YJ before the internet jeep sites were up and running. I would have been scared to death!

I definitely got used to it and autolockers front and rear never caused any trouble beyond driving on icy roads. That was a 2wd-only proposition if I wanted to steer. Rear locker only always made it easily in those situations though.

That said, after I switched to ARBs the first time, I was totally spoiled! I'm on my second vehicle with ARBs front and rear.

[gahi]

When I replaced the rear axle in my W250 (after one of the axles came out the side from a bearing failure) I ended up losing my limited slip. I was actually glad, at the time I was still up in Winter Park and driving on the icy roads was way better. But thats the only time I'm glad to have open diffs. I think if I were to put anything in, I would want selectable. But I'm spoiled now with the Land Cruiser and its Magic Switch. Then about a year ago, I had one of the carrier bearings go out and ruined the carrier. By the time I was done with that I was about $400 in to it. Kind of wish now that I had spent a little more and locked it.

For your potential gear swap, have you researched where the carrier break is for the 70? That might come into consideration if your jumping across it. It would be sweet to have the rear disks though.

[Metcalf]

I love my powr-lok in the snow! It's very predictable and progressive in the ice and snow. I think the big tires make it work even better? I don't use 4wd as much as I thought I would with this truck. I generally leave the hubs in for the snowy months, but don't grab the lever that much.....

The carrier jump is 4.10/4.56 so no worries there. The deepest I would go is 4.10's.

I'm pretty sure I won't keep the Dana 70 in the long run....

I usually wait till I stumble upon parts for good prices. I'm not in a big hurry.

If people have axle problems on a 1st gen its usually with the Dana 70 rear. The 14-bolt with the 3rd pinion bearing seems to hold up to about anything. The factory rear discs on the later model axle is the most attractive part....

[gahi]

I love my powr-lok in the snow! It's very predictable and progressive in the ice and snow. I think the big tires make it work even better? I don't use 4wd as much as I thought I would with this truck. I generally leave the hubs in for the snowy months, but don't grab the lever that much.....

I agree on it being very predictable, for me it was worst when I was trying to merge into or pass traffic. I would start fishtailing unless I was super light on the throttle. But I was running around pretty empty most of the time. 285/75/16 tires. It was better slow speed as long as the tires didn't break traction.

[Metcalf]

Well I broke down and ordered a '366' 3200rpm governor spring and a VE seal kit this morning.....

Who's coming over to help me install it? :sombrero:

I think I should have some other fun boxes showing up this week too!

[Metcalf]

Sand, sand, paint, paint.......

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0080.jpg

Then I installed a new shell, insert, turn signals, painted some more, tried to find all the screws to put it back together, and installed the bumper at like 6am before I went to work....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0081.jpg

Boy....that is shinny!

It looks like 100% better I think. I am slowing loosing my satan truck misnomer at work. My truck doesn't stick out, I don't know what your talking about!!

[Metcalf]

All the little things......

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0082.jpg

I was missing some hardware on my grille install last night. These little mounts hold the bottom corners of the grille from rattling. I have no idea what the factory hardware looked like so I made my own.

I raided the bolt bin and made these little contraptions for each side. With the double nut at each connection point (shell and steel tab) you can set the position of the grille shell however you want without a rattle. I also used some blue loc-tite to keep things from coming loose. I set mine about 1/16 off the sheet metal so that it wouldn't rub off the cheap paintjob....

[Steinbruchsoldat]

That truck is simply amazing...

[Metcalf]

Thank you!

[my1stcummins]

That truck has got a great new smile.:sombrero:

[Metcalf]

It still scares small children....

[Metcalf]

So what is the next big project..........

For those that might be coming from other boards or don't get around to the other sections of the 'portal much here is the idea I have been thinking about for some time.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/62520-The-center-mounted-winch-thread....

Basically. I am trying t design a center/mid mounted winch system where the winch will be mounted above the rear axle of the truck sunken in a box flush with the bed surface. The cable will then go to a new rear bumper that will hold a removable snatch block system. The winch line will then go around that snatch block and into a DOM tube that snakes along the inside of the drivers side frame rail to the front of the truck. The tube will exit the front of the truck and be capped with a round hawse. The winch line will remain rigged in the truck like that at all times. A 'safety thimble' will keep the winch line from being pulled back into the tube.

It will basically be a replication ( with my own flavor ) of the Foers Ibex Vector winch system.....

Anyways, check out the thread and give your comments. The thread is more about the idea in general, not just specific to my Dodge.

[Metcalf]

This was one of those little neat modifications.....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0086.jpg

Drill 1/4" pilot hole in heater box......

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0087.jpg

Use 4" hole saw to make 4" hole.....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0089.jpg

Hey look, a big hole in my heater box!

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0090.jpg

Clean out all the fuzz bunny's, leaves, pine needles, etc....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0083.jpg

Find cool plastic plugs in McMaster catalog.....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0091-1.jpg

Insert cool plastic plug into hole to cover up the new easy access clean out hole.

I have a few extra plugs since they come in a pack of ten. Let me know if anyone want one for their 1st gen.

[lstzephyr]

I still need to do that to my heater box. I could use one of those plugs.

[gahi]

Good idea, I could use one too. I here leaves tumbling around, especially when I switch to Max A/C. What size hole saw?

[Metcalf]

4" hole saw. If you can find one to borrow all the better, they are not super cheap.

[Metcalf]

I need to drop a link to a research thread so I don't lose it....

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/32171

Big huge brakes for a kingpin Dana 60!

Now that I have 17" wheels I have a little more room to play with....

[Bogie]

Interesting I will have to do some research even thou I am happy with my current brakes (F&R Disc W/Hydroboost) they can always get better.

[teleturns]

I have a few extra plugs since they come in a pack of ten. Let me know if anyone want one for their 1st gen.

I'll take one! That is a great mod. We should be up in Durango early August to hit the river. I'll give you a call....

[Metcalf]

No problem on the plastic plugs. PM me your mailing address and I will drop one in the mail. I only have about 6-7 left so first PM first get :victory:

On a side note. If you remove the plastic plug it makes one heck of a fresh air vent into the cab!

I had a few people ask for some comparison pics of my truck next to another truck for scale. Today at lunch I saw a nice 3rd gen Dodge in a local parking lot. This is probably my favorite truck in the Durango area. It's just a nice simple regular cab long box on 37s with a leveling kit.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0097.jpg

Side by side, sorry for the stupid tree in the way! I thought about cutting it down....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0099.jpg

Tires. BFG 37x12.5x17s next to my 38.5x13.5x17's. That is a big difference!

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0098.jpg

From the tailgate. Not that much difference at all. I had about a 2" taller tire also. I love the 3rd gen Dodge trucks, they have HUGE stock wheel openings, and 37s can fit with no cutting! My old beater is still pretty neat though. My truck generally had more clearance in every area yet was still the same height. The 3rd gen would most definitively have better visibility, which I envy for sure.

[Metcalf]

I had a few hours after work tonight....

I disassembled the drivers door a bit. The window was WAY to tight with the new weather striping. I ended up pulling the window out of the roller at lunch, it went clunk bang into the bottom of the door. I ended up having to trim a slight portion of the rear of the window wipers. Getting the window back in the track was fun too! It works much better now....

It was still light out so I decided to build something with wood....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0101-1.jpg

Off came the rocker panel trim. I used it for a template for a wood replacement.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0102-1.jpg

Then I cut it out with the jig saw. After a little trimming and sanding it fit pretty decent....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0103.jpg

Next I laid out the mounting ring for the new speakers. Its a 6.5" midrange and a tweeter separate set...

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0104.jpg

Drill a pilot hole large enough to get the saw started and then cut the middle out first. This makes it much easier to hold everything when your working off the hood of your 70 year old Willys MB...

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0105.jpg

After a little sanding and fitting, here it is mocked up in the truck. This is kind what the speaker position is going to be like. It overlaps the door panel just slightly but shouldn't be a big deal. My truck had 1985 doors so no mounts in the door panel for speakers. I ran the speakers up higher than normal so they don't get kicked, out of the muck, etc....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0107.jpg

Next I had to make up some spacers for the speaker mounting ring. I also cut out the main rocker board for the speaker magnet so the speaker would stick out less. I ended up using a rectangle of particle board and a shim made of some paint stir stick.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0109.jpg

Finally I mixed up some epoxy and glued it all together and aligned stuff for the last time.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0110.jpg

I used a few scraps and a heavy piece of steel to hold everything together while it sets tonight in the fresh air on the back deck.....

I will probably make the other side tomorrow and start on the fiberglass skin for the pods.....

I also pulled some more trim out of the truck and sprayed it gray :) Stupid red dash is about all the is left.....

[Metcalf]

120,000+ views....dang you people are quiet! :sombrero:
I think I might have had too much Pepsi today.....

[njtacoma]

This is one of my favorite threads.

Your truck is great! I have had my eye on an extended camp early cummins 4x4, but no 3 point belts in the back seat, so that makes it a non-starter for me.

Great Truck and you can see by my post count, I don't speak very often.

[bftank]

custom speaker enclosures. oh no! metcalf has gone mall crawler on us!

looks like a good design. i am sure it will come out nice.

[Metcalf]

It was more of an excuse to play with some fiberglass. I haven't done that much at all.
I changed my mind, everyone can be quiet again:sombrero:
I guess 'dotiall' includes mall crawling....

I can only imagine what your going to say when I install a small 4 channel amp and sub!
With the new tires I can hear at least some music again!

[gahi]

This is one of my favorite threads.

Your truck is great! I have had my eye on an extended camp early cummins 4x4, but no 3 point belts in the back seat, so that makes it a non-starter for me.

hijack on... Was it a bench seat or bucket seat model? I have a bucket seat model, and pulled the center console to put a seat for my kid and his car seat all the way to the back wall in the middle. Its actually a pretty good seat for an adult too, lots of leg room. The jump seats are pretty worthless.

Metcalf, are you still happy with the cheap stereo? Planning on using it for your new speakers? I still have the factory one but is been bad for a long time. either super loud, or too quiet, all with one click of the volume knob.

[Metcalf]

hijack on... Was it a bench seat or bucket seat model? I have a bucket seat model, and pulled the center console to put a seat for my kid and his car seat all the way to the back wall in the middle. Its actually a pretty good seat for an adult too, lots of leg room. The jump seats are pretty worthless.

Metcalf, are you still happy with the cheap stereo? Planning on using it for your new speakers? I still have the factory one but is been bad for a long time. either super loud, or too quiet, all with one click of the volume knob.


I'd like to see pictures of that 3rd seat arrangement.

The cheap stereo is still working just fine. I did note a few little glitches. With the diesel wait to start function sometimes it basically resets the stereo. The deck will start playing the first song from the flash drive other than the song you where on. I could probably wire it different to make that go away.

I will probably try the new speakers off the cheap stereo, but will be adding a small 4-channel amp to run the separates and a sub on a bridged channel. I would also like to hide the sub box to free up a little more space behind the seat(s).

[bftank]

never been much of a stereo guy myself but always admired the way those guys could work the glass.

and hey you have to be prepared for anything right? even if it is a trip to abercrombie. haha!

one of these days i will have to head south and check out your ride. looks like there is a lot of exploring to be done down there.

[gahi]

I'd like to see pictures of that 3rd seat arrangement.

I'll take some pics, My truck has a funky seat setup. I dont know if it came from the factory like this but it seems like the center console was made aftermarket. Its wood and fiberglass. It has a fixed back with storage in the back and a kind of cooler setup in the seatbase with a drain hole out the bottom. You lift either the base or seat back to get access to the storage. I dont have any pics of it before I took it out, but for some to actually sit there it was way too high. You would be looking straight at, or above the rear view mirror.

[trailrunner]

I think everyone is quiet because you usually do things right. They've got nothing to complain about!

[lstzephyr]

It was more of an excuse to play with some fiberglass. I haven't done that much at all.
I changed my mind, everyone can be quiet again:sombrero:
I guess 'dotiall' includes mall crawling....



I done seen it! Mall crawling at the "abortions" parking lot no less. :sombrero:

[Metcalf]

Now that is hitting below the belt! Just because it took me a little while to figure out how to defeat auto-spell on my new phone.......

[lstzephyr]

Ha! I was mall crawling along with you. I was actually googling abortion clinics in durango after your text, thinking "is this guy for real?" lol. I was relieved it was just auto-spell for Albertson's!:elkgrin:

Door panels look interesting. Why overlap the door? I'm interested to see how you setup the amp too.

[trasko]

I'm definitely interested in the sub-box location you figure out. I have one of those wedge boxes from a store with an 8" sub using a small (physically the smallest I could find) 4-channel amp in the same configuration you are talking about. On my ext. cab F250 I have the wedge-box right behind the drivers seat. It fits perfect with the seat all the way back which is how I always have it adjusted. The amp is mounted to a piece of wood and wedged vertically between the rear bench seat and the side of the cab. All the wire runs are short and it can all be pulled out in under a minute. I've pulled the sub a few times to make room for a 5th person but never have pulled the amp even though I could. I worried for awhile about heat buildup since the amp was just wedged in place w/ the rear seat but it has been fine.

This has been an acceptable solution but I have 2 places I'd ideally like to improve:

1) The sub takes up an entire space and somewhat intrudes on the middle occupant's foot-space. I'd love it if I could have the sub elsewhere, but the cab is so tight I don't know where it would be other than inside the center console.

2) Door speakers seem muffled. I think this is due to their location down so low that people's legs get in the way of the sound. Sometimes one side sounds louder than another but if move my head lower it changes. Your solution of custom component mounts sounds like it might solve this. It also could be partly due to reusing 20 year old wires in the doors...

[Metcalf]

Ha! I was mall crawling along with you. I was actually googling abortion clinics in durango after your text, thinking "is this guy for real?" lol. I was relieved it was just auto-spell for Albertson's!:elkgrin:

Door panels look interesting. Why overlap the door? I'm interested to see how you setup the amp too.

Yeah, I will most likely never live that one down....that will be good for a laugh for a few years I a sure....

The speaker just won't fit up high without having to overlap the door a little bit. If I ran the speakers low I think they would get kicked a lot. They should also stay drier in the winter with snow and water. I hope that having them hang out about two inches won't be too much of a knee banger. So far it doesn't seem like it and I have the seat pretty far forward....

[Metcalf]

A small update from the center mounted winch thread.....

-I'm leaning heavily toward the Superwinch EP12.5. For the money, I think its about the best option. It has a brake that is external from the drum which is important I feel for the use of synthetic winch line. The winch also has a drum large enough to fit 125' of 3/8" steel cable! The winch also comes standard with a 15' long controller and an 'albright' solenoid which is value added to me.....

http://www.roverworld.com/images/Products/SuperwinchEP12_5_small.jpg

http://www.roverworld.com/images/Products/EP_12_5_16_5draw.jpg

-The winch will be mounted in a sunken box in the bed. I will be using the 5th wheel trailer hitch mounting holes on the frame. The winch 'box' will be secured to the frame with eight 1/2" dia bolts. The load will also be spread out over a large flat plate in the bed to help with frame 'racking'. The winch will end up directly above the rear axle. The winch will be mounted 'feet forward' with the winch line to the rear of the truck in-between the stock 1st gen dodge shock mounts. The box will need to be built around the stock fuel tank on the drivers side of the frame.

-I am going to add a remote disconnect for the drum winch. It will probably be a variation of this.

http://www.dborc.co.uk/goodwinch/pdf/air_freespool.pdf

http://www.dborc.co.uk/goodwinch/images/200271.jpg

-I will have to remount the solenoid in the winch box to get the profile of the winch down.

-The winch line will go from the winch to the rear bumper. Mounted in the bumper will be a pulley to redirect the winch line to the front of the vehicle. There will also be a few provisions to allow the winch line to be pulled through a hawse mounted on the surface of the rear bumper.

-I have 90% decided to run the winch line along the passenger frame rail to the front of the vehicle. I have to add a new exhaust system for my turbocharger upgrade so I decided to try and build the exhaust outside the passenger side frame rail. This free's up the inside of the rail to route the winch line tube. By using the passenger rail I don't have to drop the fuel tank to construct the tube. My only reservation is the heat in the area around the passenger frame rail toward the front of the truck under the turbo charger. I am sure there are enough options for heat mitigation but I need to sort that problem out.....

-The winch line tube will be 1.5-1.75" DOM seamless tubing with v-band clamps to connect the different sections. By using the passenger rail I think there will only be 2 sections of tube with basically a joint at the transfer case cross member. I am going to try and minimize the bends as much as possible.

-I would like to tuck the winch line tube inside the c-channel of the frame. At some point in the future I would like to add a 2nd factory 30 gallon fuel tank on the other side of the driveshaft from the stock tank....

-The front end of the winch line tube will need a hawse. I will most likely be making a round aluminum winch line hawse that fits in the end of the tube, perhaps bolting to a flange on the backside of the hawse. The hawse will be built to a size that will allow me to terminate the end of the winch line with a 'safety thimble' to keep the line from pulling into the winch line tube or hawse WITHOUT having to hood the winch line to a recovery point on the front of the truck.

http://www.winchline.com/images-products/v-safetythimble4sr.gif

-I will be moving the plug in for the winch controller to the drivers side door inside rocker panel area. This should let the 15' remote reach the back or front of the truck as well as let me use the controller in the truck. I will also be mounting the switch for the freespool in the same location. The driver can then engage the winch from the cab during recovery operations.

[Steinbruchsoldat]

Sounds like a plan...

One thing: You don`t want to run the winch line tube as a one-piece tube. There should be some sections without tube where the winch line is "free". If you`re winching in a muddy environment the winch line will drag mud into the tube. Due the heat the mud will get hard and block the tube. Saw this a few time at the european rally`s. Everything is possible, from a snapped winch line, up to a "a bit too short" winch line tube...

[Metcalf]

Great feedback! Thank you!

I think I can have a free line section in a few places. I think near the transfer case will be the lowest point in the system. That should let the mud come out the ends. I could even wash the mud out then also.

One other point brought up in the center winch thread was that the tube would be better if it was made out of aluminum or stainless. Its got me wondering if I should be thinking about corrosion inside the tube? I just don't know if I could stomach the cost of stainless seamless tubing.

I might be able to do SCH 10, 1 1/4" pipe ( .109 wall ) in stainless, but its still not cheap, and I would have to have a specialty die for the bender. I also don't know if pipe would be the best for this application.

[Steinbruchsoldat]

Just that i understand your system: The winch line will stay in the tube the whole time. To pull rear you use a snatch block to pull with. The line will be locked at the front...

I wouldn`t use a tube for the line at all. The rally guys only use one if the line goes through the passenger compartment to prevent amputations if the line snaps... Just use a fairlead where the line will have to go around something and leave it free the rest...

Here you can (maybe) see how they routed it on this rally truck. Just a fairlead on the front and one on the tranny crossmember. The winch sits above the rear axle:

http://www.abload.de/img/dsc02147adxx.jpg

[Metcalf]

I need to get out some string and see what the line path will be like. I have a lot of stuff to work around, especially if I want to add the additional fuel tank.
Thank you very much for your suggestions!

In my head, the tube just seems.....cleaner in some ways.

[gahi]

Will you flare out the tubes at the ends? Or turn up an aluminum "fairlead" type plug with drain holes on a lathe for the end of the tubes.

[Metcalf]

I was just going to turn a aluminum hawse that would fit in the tube. It will have a decent radius and slip fit into the tube. I might have a steel flange on the end of the tube that holds the hawse on also from the backside.

If I have section removed from the tubing I will try and make it in an area where the winch line would be going straight, and at a low point. Hopefully then I can just sand the ends of the tube smooth since the line won't touch them.

The round aluminum hawse will also have a flat contact area for the safety thimble on the front.

[Steinbruchsoldat]

If I have section removed from the tubing I will try and make it in an area where the winch line would be going straight, and at a low point. Hopefully then I can just sand the ends of the tube smooth since the line won't touch them.



That`s what i was about to suggest... :ylsmoke:

[gahi]

It'll be sweet, but lots of figuring. So in a rear pull the aluminum hawse plug and tube would need to handle the force of the pull? I guess every bend needs to be able to handle this force also, thus the need for the heavy wall tubing. I'd be tempted to use snatch block type pulleys at every bend and use tubing just to protect it. Are you going to center the thimble in the front? If so those will be some sharp angles.

[Metcalf]

It'll be sweet, but lots of figuring. So in a rear pull the aluminum hawse plug and tube would need to handle the force of the pull? I guess every bend needs to be able to handle this force also, thus the need for the heavy wall tubing. I'd be tempted to use snatch block type pulleys at every bend and use tubing just to protect it. Are you going to center the thimble in the front? If so those will be some sharp angles.

Yes, the safety thimble will be trying to go down the throat of the aluminum hawse. The safety thimble is flat on the back however, and the aluminum hawse will also have a flat mating surface. I will be running the winch line tube through the front most crossmember on the frame as well as an additional 2x3 box tubing crossmember just under the front bumper. The tube will pass through two 1/8"-3/16" surfaces at the factory crossmember then two 3/16-1/4" surfaces at the new crossmember. All 4 of these pass through locations will be welded. I am going to add a v-band clamb junction just behind the front crossmember I think. This will let me remove the winch line tube if needed. I may make my own v-band connections so that there is an interlocking step to take more side loads...then just buy the clamps.

The force on the bends is angular....or not the full pull force.....it will only be a percentage of the pull strength. I am still going to do everything I can to minimize all the bends I can. What bends I do have will be a large 5-6" CLR.

The hawse in front will NOT be centered. My big old diesel is in the way :sombrero: I don't see too many drawbacks to having a slightly offset pulling point. Most times when you get pulled out by someone they are not hooking to the centerline of the vehicle.

I do need to get the hawse out far enough that I can pull 90 degrees to the side, that might be interesting as my bumper and recovery points only stick out like 2-3" beyond the grille.

[gahi]

I was just curious about centering the front and the extra bends that would be needed, but I agree, not needed. So do you figure about 25 ft of line will be used up running around under the truck?

[Metcalf]

I was just curious about centering the front and the extra bends that would be needed, but I agree, not needed. So do you figure about 25 ft of line will be used up running around under the truck?

Yup, something like that.

I will be adding some length to the synthetic line when I buy it. I also had a thought about using 25' or so of different colored line on the last part of the drum. The change in color would be a good simple visual indicator for when your getting close to the end of the winch line capacity without having to look in the winch box in the bed or risking trying to pull with too many wraps on the drum....

[Metcalf]

We are getting out of town for the 4th weekend, we are going to be putting about 1500-2000 miles on the truck so I figured I needed to do a few things....

I checked all the fluids.....

Engine oil was good

Transmission was maybe 1/4 quart low. Filled with 5-30 synthetic. The new PTO fill plate works great as does the upper left bolt level check. It took less than 5 minutes.

Transfer case was good

Rear diff as a little low (?) Didn't see any leaks though. Added limited slip additive and topped it up with gear lube.

I was going to swap in some new ampco 18 kingpin bushings but they didn't show up. I did check both kingpins for slop. The passenger side was tight, I greased it anyways. The drivers side with the pre-load adjuster got a washer replacement with a MUCH thicker washer. I had had a few problems dimpling the washer when it was pre-loaded.

Brakes and wheel bearings in the front where good.

I also decided to play magyver a little bit.....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0112.jpg

I decided to add some balancing beads to the tires. I got $.53 worth of 1/4" ID clear tubing, a new nozzle off a gear lube bottle, and a used bottle from some household cleaner.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0113.jpg

Add the beads to the bottle and screw everything together. The hose goes over the valve stem WITHOUT the valve core. I took the weight off the tire with a jack and pulled the core to let the air out.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0114.jpg

I tried a LOT of different techniques to get the dang little beads in the tire. What worked best for me was to gently tap on the valve stem with the tire pressure gauge while the bottle was taped to the hub. I was able to add 8oz. of beads in about 30 minutes. I just put some music on and stared at the rocker panel area trying to figure out my new exhaust system as I taped on it........

The truck is heavy enough that I didn't really notice that the tires where unbalanced before. I might have gotten a little vibes at certain speeds but I didn't really think that the beads where going to do much. I was wrong. The beads made a huge difference in the vibrations in the truck! It just seems that much calmer now, kinda like the difference between the old tires and new tires again. I will see how they do at some much higher interstate speeds, but so far so good!

[Metcalf]

We made it back from the north. A lot of the drive looked like this so it wasn't too bad!

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0117-1.jpg

The truck did really well overall for a 300K+ mileage beater. The total trip was 1721.775 miles. I used 84.477 gallons of fuel. AVERAGE mileage for the trip was 20.381! This included driving around town back and forth to friends and family for a week also. Best tank was 23.9 driving back from moab to home last night at about 55-65mph in 5th except for the big hills ( ie almost coasting ).

Overall I just gave up on trying to go faster than 70mph. The best speed seemed to be about 68mph according to the GPS.

I'm proud of that old truck!

That said.....I had visions of a 3rd gen version of my truck. Some notes on improvements I need to make.

-I need new seats. I got the blessing from the better half on that. I'm still a little up in the air about what to do, but I am thinking the wide version of the PRP daily driver.

-I need to fix the cruise control and/or make a manual throttle of some kind.

-Better suspension would be nice. What is the Deaver spring phone number again?

-The new vent window gaskets suck. They whistle no matter what you do.

-The spare tire location in the bed worked great. Minimal impact on visibility ( none ), and didn't get in the way when sleeping too much. The misses does say it smells like a tire :sombrero:

-I need to repair the A/C. I'm pretty sure it needs a recharge, but when I was looking over the truck last week I found a rub spot on one of the hoses. I need to get that replaced and charge the system. The truck uses an R12 system, so that will be fun.

Driving back alone ( the misses is flying home next week! ) to Durango stopping only for fuel is not advised. I feel like a zombie.

[trasko]

-The spare tire location in the bed worked great. Minimal impact on visibility ( none ), and didn't get in the way when sleeping too much. The misses does say it smells like a tire :sombrero:

Thanks for the report. I'm loving my '91 Ford -- I wouldn't want anything newer. I just spent 15 minutes looking for what your spare-tire solution is. Can you point me to it? I've been planning on doing the same thing and just yesterday finally got a 5th wheel. I've been imagining making something to store it on end in front of the driver's side wheel-well in the bed. Also plan to store some fuel in a similar fashion.

[Metcalf]

I will try and get a pic at lunch. I totally forgot to get one.

The tire is standing up against the drivers side bed rail ahead of the wheel well. It is also slightly tilted over to clear the camper shell ( Its a true 37-38" tall tire ). It doesn't block the rear view mirror or the passenger side windows of the camper shell.

[trasko]

I will try and get a pic at lunch. I totally forgot to get one.

The tire is standing up against the drivers side bed rail ahead of the wheel well. It is also slightly tilted over to clear the camper shell ( Its a true 37-38" tall tire ). It doesn't block the rear view mirror or the passenger side windows of the camper shell.

Great, that's what I am thinking. I've seen some good ones made with steel flat-bar bent to fit.

[Metcalf]

I just used a large ratchet strap to hold it in for the last trip.

I think I will be building a 'saddle' style mount that will bolt to the bed floor to take any load OFF the bed rails.

[gahi]

Awesome mileage! I only get 14-15? might have something to do with running 80 all the time too though.

[Metcalf]

For just cruising I think the old cummins likes the lower rpm's.

There is a wall at 70+ though. I can cruise at 68 on flat interstate using 3psi of boost. To do over 70 mph I have to use like 7-10psi of boost.

I'm not in the biggest hurry and usually do hills that require 4th gear at like 55mph or so.

[lstzephyr]

I generally don't push more than 5psi unless I have/want to. I generally try to stick to no boost when cruising. Most of the time the big hills I just creep up going 45 or whatever the semis can pull. My old truck was seriously slow and I got used to doing 25 up mountain passes. 45 feels fast now.

80 mph will kill the mileage. I can get 25 mpg at 65 on flat land with my truck near 9k pounds loaded. I think that is excellent.

[gahi]

yup that's awesome. Besides the speed, I think the auto trans I have hurts it a lot too. No lockup, stock converter. Best I've ever gotten, staying under 65mph was about 17mpg. Worst was 11mpg, that was hauling about 10k lbs worth of cars and parts from Winter Park, CO to SoCal. I did around 700 miles in the last 2 days and averaged about 14mpg.

I'd love to be able to pull the numbers you guys are getting. I've always hated the auto trans, but it just keeps going. You can barely even feel the 1-2-3 shifts its so slushy. Unless I come across a donor truck for next to nothing, I'll probably leave it as is.

[lstzephyr]

Yeah the auto probably hurts your mileage a bit. I bet a lockup converter would help.

I actually had a big boost leak for a year or so and didn't know it. So I cruised around with no boost all the time.

Whats sad is my motorcycle gets about 45 mpg cruising but if I really go crazy and hammer down everywhere I can pull it down near 25-30 mpg. Of course at that point there isn't much that can keep up with it. I used to ride in an offroad area near the interstate and I could keep pace with the cars at about 80. All that over pretty open desert but with washouts, whoops, a jump or two and a section of berms. I sometimes wondered what the people in their cars were thinking.

[Metcalf]

After the big trip up north last weekend I didn't feel like doing anything big, so I thought I would play with some fiberglass.....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0123-1.jpg

I grabbed some $1 fabric from china mart and the speaker pod frame from a few weeks ago.....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0125-1.jpg

Next I went a little crazy with a staple gun, some duct tape, needle, thread, and some match sticks.....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0124.jpg

Here is what the pod frame looks like covered. I used very stretchy material to form over the odd shapes and edges. It takes a little bit to get everything tight, but once you do it ends up looking fairly nice. I used some thread to pull down a cone of material in the main speaker area. This will make the edge much easier to find later when I cut it out after the fiberglass work. I also stapled down an area for the crossover so it would mount to a flat surface. I will probably make a small kick guard for it or something. Somewhere in there I also test fit the pod in the truck again to see if everything cleared. It did, but I forgot to grab a pic. I also ran out of staple somewhere in there.....dang it.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0126-1.jpg

Here you can see the line of staples that help pull the fabric down for the crossover mount. Next I mixed up some resin in a dixi cup and a 97 cent paint bush to apply it. You have about 15 minutes to paint it on, don't be afraid to lay it on pretty thick. You need to saturate the material, not just get it 'wet'. This is where somewhat light and thin material helps. Fleece is nice, but I think it would take a LOT of resin. This fabric was about as thick as a t-shirt, but much more stretchy.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0127.jpg

Here is the kick panel pod after the first coat of resin ( about 3-4oz ). I ended up doing one more coat of resin ( about 2 oz ) to get some areas I missed. The monsoons look like they are a little early this year and I was rushed on the 2nd coat so I didn't get a pic. Next I will start laying a few layers of fiberglass mat and sanding everything smooth.....

Don't forget the questions if you have them!

[bfdiesel]

Looks nice. I have only played with fiber glass once, but it was easier than I thought it would be. The set up of the frame or mold was where all the work was for me.

[dd76522]

man your rig is getting sexier and sexier all the time! definetly giving me some ideas for my 90, if i could just get some time to give it a break and some rest!

[Metcalf]

Thanks!

I did probably 95% of the work in the evening and on weekends. I drive the truck every day to work monday to friday....

Start with the little things, they add up.

[dd76522]

you're very welcome, i think mine is in a lil worse shape than you started out with but i have been keeping my eyes open for a donor truck, i pretty much need everything but the cab, on a positive note a donor will leave me with alot of extra sheet metal for patch panels and such.... right now i'm running 37" hummer take offs and maybe an inch of lift in the front, they were superlift 4" springs for a gasser but that turned out to be a bad plan, they're better than the trashed stockers i had up front but they're flat after less than a yr so i think it's time to come up with a better plan, i definetly don't want to go any taller just a lil bigger in tire size and those maddogs sure do look sexy:)

[Squatchout]

Nice truck and it looks like you are doing a great job with it. As an old Dodge fan I chuckle when I hear these called 1st gens. It's the 1st gen of the CTD but the last gen of these style trucks. The chassis is pretty much the same from '61-'93. Except the rear springs are shorter on the '61-'71s. Suspension is the same on the '71-'80 Powerwagons and '81-'93 Power Rams. Even some body panels will interchange. That's one of the great things about the older Dodges. 3 decades of parts interchangablity.
I have an '80 powerwagon and wish I got your fuel economy. I've got a 4spd and a mid '60s big block. Kinda thirsty.

[Metcalf]

you're very welcome, i think mine is in a lil worse shape than you started out with but i have been keeping my eyes open for a donor truck, i pretty much need everything but the cab, on a positive note a donor will leave me with alot of extra sheet metal for patch panels and such.... right now i'm running 37" hummer take offs and maybe an inch of lift in the front, they were superlift 4" springs for a gasser but that turned out to be a bad plan, they're better than the trashed stockers i had up front but they're flat after less than a yr so i think it's time to come up with a better plan, i definetly don't want to go any taller just a lil bigger in tire size and those maddogs sure do look sexy:)

I like the maddogs. They seem to be wearing great, less noise, better mileage, etc.

If I was going to build another one I would find a dually bed to use. If you take the fender flares off you end up with a HUGE wheel opening kinda like I have after I cut everything. In the front, I would order a pair of the Trailer products fiberglass front fenders. That would make everything SO much easier with FAR less body work.

[Metcalf]

Nice truck and it looks like you are doing a great job with it. As an old Dodge fan I chuckle when I hear these called 1st gens. It's the 1st gen of the CTD but the last gen of these style trucks. The chassis is pretty much the same from '61-'93. Except the rear springs are shorter on the '61-'71s. Suspension is the same on the '71-'80 Powerwagons and '81-'93 Power Rams. Even some body panels will interchange. That's one of the great things about the older Dodges. 3 decades of parts interchangablity.
I have an '80 powerwagon and wish I got your fuel economy. I've got a 4spd and a mid '60s big block. Kinda thirsty.

I do like this truck. I wish that there was an LMC style catalog with all the little parts for these trucks. I think that is one area where the same year Ford or GM product has a leg up.

[Squatchout]

Yeah back then the Dodges just weren't that popular. Raybuck has some body parts as do others.
http://raybuck.com/c-54810-repair-panels-dodge-1972-1993-dodge-fullsize-pickup-ramcharger.html

I guess the good thing is used parts trucks are pretty cheap.

In my case I can get most of what I need from hobby sites catering to little Red Express trucks. Same body as mine.

You can also watch on this site.
http://www.ramchargercentral.com/

I haven't read every post in this long thread. If you haven't done so and your steering is a bit sloppy. replace the shaft from the columm to the box with a new borgenson unit. It's a huge improvement over stock and won't wear out.

[Metcalf]

Yeah back then the Dodges just weren't that popular. Raybuck has some body parts as do others.
http://raybuck.com/c-54810-repair-panels-dodge-1972-1993-dodge-fullsize-pickup-ramcharger.html

I guess the good thing is used parts trucks are pretty cheap.

In my case I can get most of what I need from hobby sites catering to little Red Express trucks. Same body as mine.

You can also watch on this site.
http://www.ramchargercentral.com/

I haven't read every post in this long thread. If you haven't done so and your steering is a bit sloppy. replace the shaft from the columm to the box with a new borgenson unit. It's a huge improvement over stock and won't wear out.

I did the steering shaft when I converted to crossover steering. It was a HUGE improvement.

Thank you for the parts links.

[Metcalf]

A little more progress Sunday...

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0128.jpg

Add some fiberglass. I did two layers of glass and I think that will be enough for this application....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0129.jpg

Then I started cutting out the hole for the speaker. 12V cordless Dremel to the rescue.....

I got a little farther than shown in the pictures. I thought I snapped a few of the finished hole but I guess I will have to take another. I was in town for dinner and was going to pick up some spray on undercoating to cover the panel in but the store was closed. I will pick some up after work tonight.

[dd76522]

tanks for the assesment, i'll definetly keep the maddogs in mind, seriously doubt i'll be able to lay hands on a dually bed around here, junkyards are not on every corner and i haven't seen any in my local travels,
quick edit allready, i found them, based on the website they don't seem like a huge company but the fenders are kinda sexy;)

[Metcalf]

tanks for the assesment, i'll definetly keep the maddogs in mind, seriously doubt i'll be able to lay hands on a dually bed around here, junkyards are not on every corner and i haven't seen any in my local travels,
quick edit allready, i found them, based on the website they don't seem like a huge company but the fenders are kinda sexy;)

Here they are on a truck....a nice truck!

http://image.off-roadweb.com/f/33028576+w750+st0/1108or-15+1975-dodge-w100-mighty-mopar+front-right-angle.jpg

Article here...

http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/1108or_1975_dodge_w100_mighty_mopar/index.html

[dd76522]

now that is sweet! i've never seen steering box mounting like that, pretty novel...

[lstzephyr]

How thick are you planning on making those speaker boxes? Did you get your winch project finished out yet? I need to copy that and your cross over steering sometime.

That truck is badass! I like it, a lot. That is more or less what I have envisioned for awhile, although with a usable bed. I really want to set my truck up with the old style fenders/grill, and cut then bed down to a short bed but keeping the long wheelbase. It would be almost perfect for what I do. Besides how cool is this?

http://image.off-roadweb.com/f/33028534+w750+st0/1108or-01+1975-dodge-w100-mighty-mopar+front-angle.jpg

[Metcalf]

How thick are you planning on making those speaker boxes? Did you get your winch project finished out yet? I need to copy that and your cross over steering sometime.

That truck is badass! I like it, a lot. That is more or less what I have envisioned for awhile, although with a usable bed. I really want to set my truck up with the old style fenders/grill, and cut then bed down to a short bed but keeping the long wheelbase. It would be almost perfect for what I do. Besides how cool is this?

http://image.off-roadweb.com/f/33028534+w750+st0/1108or-01+1975-dodge-w100-mighty-mopar+front-angle.jpg

Which speaker boxes? The kick panel pods for the separates are wood, fabric, fiberglass, and then undercoating to make them match the vinyl floor.

The winch project is still in the works.

I am moving over the next week or two to a new place with a SHOP!!!! No more driveway fab for me.....

Copy away! With your skyjacker springs you should be able to get away with a slightly less tall steering arm if you can find a 6.0" center to center. All the other parts are available off the shelf in some form.

I did finally dream up a way to do the exhaust outside the frame. That will need to happen before I can do the winch project. When I do the new 4" exhaust I need to bolt on the new turbo also. That should be very very fun!

[bfdiesel]

Now I am jealous. I still have to do driveway mods.

[lstzephyr]

I am moving over the next week or two to a new place with a SHOP!!!! No more driveway fab for me.....

I did finally dream up a way to do the exhaust outside the frame. That will need to happen before I can do the winch project. When I do the new 4" exhaust I need to bolt on the new turbo also. That should be very very fun!

Congrats again on the new place!

Hood stack?:elkgrin:

[Metcalf]

Now I am jealous. I still have to do driveway mods.

I got a LOT done in the driveway over the last 2 years!

[Metcalf]

Congrats again on the new place!

Hood stack?:elkgrin:


No hood stack. I'll save that for when I have compound turbo's and need a 5" downpipe.

[Metcalf]

I finished the speaker kick panel pods last night....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0154-1.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0155-1.jpg

I still need to bend up some small guards for the crossover boxes for a little added insurance against a stray boot. The emergency brake still works too. I should probably bend the pedal over a little bit, but it works just fine.

There is also a small amp and a 12" sub sitting in the garage that need to go in now. The amp can be mounted under the seat no problem. I took the easy way out and ordered a $33 shallow mount subwoofer box for behind the seat.

It's nice to have decent tunes. Even with the 6.5 separates just running of the cheapy head unit it sounds very decent. The new speaker location is GREAT. I can only imagine how good its going to sound with the small amp and a sub. The amp has a built in hi-low crossover so that should help keep the front speakers from working harder trying to produce full range.

[DoMiNiC1]

Love this build! Well done sir.

[Metcalf]

Thank you!

While its never going to be 'done' its going to slow down a bit I think now that I have started working on my old 1942 Willys MB. The rebuild on that should end up being pretty neat. I don't have to drive that one every day, so it will be getting a much more involved build....including a scratch built frame. Check out the build in the Jeep section.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/58343-Rango.....1942-Willys-MB

Now that I have a shop and am acquiring more tools at home, the Dodge build could move along faster for all I know...

[Metcalf]

The Doitall has been earning its keep lately....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/IMAG0199.jpg

600lb+ 4'x8' welding table with a 3/8" thick top I picked up used in Grand Junction. I also had to pick up an engine hoist at Harbor Freight to load the table while I was in town. I had to return my loaner hoist so now I have my own again.

The hoist is probably another 200lbs? I had to assemble the hoist in a gas station parking lot before I went to pick up the table.

The old truck did great. 20.7 mpg on the way up and 20.2 mpg on the return trip ( and driving to work for a few days ). I took the LOOOONNNGGGG way back from Grand Junction on hwy 141 that dumps back into Dove Creek, Colorado before heading back home. Note: There is VERY limited services along that road, its probably the most remote corner of Colorado I have seen yet!

On the way up I went up Hwy 550 from Durango over coal bank pass, into Silverton, then over red mountain pass into Ouray, to Ridgeway, to Montrose, and finally Grand Junction. Red mountain pass had a few inches of snow and it was rainy driving down the switch backs into Ouray. It was the Jeep Jamboree weekend so town and the highway was pretty dang busy!

[bftank]

nice find! i have been thinking about making a welding table and hadn't thought of checking craigslist for one. i will have to keep that in mind.

[Metcalf]

I couldn't even buy the sheet of plate for the top with my discount through work for what I paid for the entire table. It also came with casters but I removed them to get the table rolled over and in the truck. It took me about 10-11 hours to go up and get the table, I don't think I could have built the table in much less time. Having to accelerate the purchase of a new hoist made the trip a little more expensive, but the hoist was on sale AND I used a 20% coupon at Harbor Freight AND I didn't have to pay shipping. I think the hoist was about $170 out the door for the 2 ton version.

[gahi]

Uh-Oh, more horizontal space in the shop. Good score though!

[lstzephyr]

My old mirrors gotta go! Do these look like the mirrors you have on your truck? http://www.awdirect.com/tripod-mirror-kit-standard-cham-cal-engineering-50301/mirrors/?epc=AWSEFGL&CID=AWSEFGL&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=OR7

[Metcalf]

I had some that looked similar but they where total junk. The mirrors on my truck now where gifted to me. They are original 1974 GM mirrors that are stainless steel oem quality. They don't shake or rattle.

[lstzephyr]

Thanks, I'm trying to avoid junk. I found a few on some old trucks out in the junkyard, I will see what I come up with.

I'm going to attempt to copy your high steer in the next couple months. I'll probably be asking some questions. Step one is order a springless high steer arm.

[Metcalf]

Its fairly easy to do the crossover as long as you keep all the measurements I used the same :) There is a good thread on DTR about low lift crossover steering that I have been helping with. A gentleman over there tried to use a Nortwest Fab kit. He has had to find other parts. The magic formula for me was....

-Jeep WJ pitman arm ( Parts Mike will re-taper and remove the keys for an off the shelf option). I think its still less than $50.

-The steering arm needs to be 6.0" center to center. I made mine 1.5" tall and it worked well for my THICK springs. With less lift or different springs you can use a steering arm that is less tall. Your truck was .5" taller than mine in front with your skyjacker springs.

-Buy the Poly Performance double adjuster.
-Buy a threaded insert to match the above
-Use a single bend drag link
-Buy TRE's that will work with the above threaded inserts. I used GM 3/4 ton stuff.

If you have any other questions let me know....

[lstzephyr]

Thanks! What was the tubing size and approximate degree of bend on your drag link?

If you could post a link to the other thread you are helping with I would really appreciate it!

[Metcalf]

1.25" OD on the drag link. Mine is solid material. I will have to check on the bend angle. I just did it in the press till it fit :)

[lstzephyr]

Did you leave the stock steering arm as a cap on the driver's side?

Thanks, I should have taken notes/pictures when I was there.

[Metcalf]

Yup, stock steering arm still on the drivers side.

[DoMiNiC1]

You truck is pure man. Great work sir.

[lstzephyr]

I think you mentioned wanting some type of seal between your cap and cab when we were comparing trucks in colorado. I mentioned a thread I couldn't find for awhile but I found it looking for some seals for my cap. Maybe this will be useful.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/39774-Project-T100-quot-Baja-Explorer-Ver.-2-quot/page6

[Metcalf]

I have been super busy with my Willys rebuild and just haven't done much on the Dodge except put miles on it. I thought I would share a few thoughts and notes however....

-The new Pitbull Maddog radial tires have been GREAT so far. They are wearing REALLY nice so far on the 9" wide wheels. The 17x9" steel wheels with 5" backspacing have been a pretty much PERFECT fit on the truck. The tires are under the body, they don't rub when turning, and it seems to track and steer great. We have gotten our first snow and ice on the roads here in Colorado also. The tires did just fine. I haven't got to drive around in a ton of snow or ice, but so far so good!

-The truck just keeps going. It seems to be returning about 19mpg on summer diesel during my weekly commute back and forth to town/work/etc. Now that we have winter diesel it seems to have dropped down to 18mpg or so. I also let the truck warm up a little bit more in the mornings and such.

-The crossover steering is working great. This was probably the best driveability mod to the truck overall. I highly recommend that anyone running a 1st gen 4wd Dodge do this modification.

-Overall the cheap and quick Rustoleum paint job seems to be holding up better than I thought it would. Its nice to be able to fix paint chips or whatever with a spray can from any walmart.

-The truck just works. It does everything I want. Sometimes I wish it was a 2003-2007 regular cab long box 4wd, Cummins, Auto, base model instead of an older 1992. Overall though, the truck is just bone simple and works.

Once my Willys project is driving around I will be doing some more stuff on the Dodge. I still have a new turbo, gauges, etc to do. I also really want to install a mid mounted winch. I need to give the brake system some attention also.....that is a good place for an upgrade too.

If I did find the right ( cheap enough ) 2003-2007 dodge donor I would consider building a newer version of the same truck. I would stick with 37" tires and NOT do any body cutting or mods :sombrero: Between the body mods on the Dodge and my old Willys I am pretty burned out on sheetmetal mods!

The only area that I am still not 100% happy with is the rear shell system. I still want to do something different for more storage and useability options.....

[bftank]

what turbo did you go with?

[Metcalf]

HE351CW off a 2006ish dodge.

[BCHauler]

Hey man! It's been 5 months and 8 pages since we've had a pic of your truck. Time to feed the masses!

[bftank]

good choice! quick spool on low amounts of fuel

[Metcalf]

Major breakdown on the dodge......

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/100_0555.jpg

The dang bolts that held the air cleaner bracket in place vibrated loose after 2-3 years....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/100_0556.jpg

I replaced them with grade 8 bolts and washers with all metal lock-nuts.....hopefully this doesn't happen every 2-3 years :)

[lstzephyr]

Bummer on the big breakdown. My old dodge had a similar catastrophic event today, a hose clamp was loose.

Simply horrible.

[BCHauler]

Whew! Lucky you're handy with your tools. Imagine what the dealer would have charged for that fix with a new Dodge. Parts catalog lists them as "Engineered fasteners with rotational, machined attachments kit - $69.95+tax. Book time for installation - 1.5 hours at $129/hr". Next available appointment is the 16th at 2:30pm.

:)

[4BT]

This showed up in the mail today....

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/IMAG0005.jpg

Time for a little high altitude performance!

Do do list for this project....

-buy a 4" Diamond Eye exhaust system
-Make a HE351 sized exhaust flange and weld it to the new 4" downpipe
-Make a new pipe to go from the compressor outlet to intercooler
-Buy a new v-band clamp for the exhaust housing
-Buy some new gaskets for the turbo orifices
-Modify the intake system for the new turbo compressor inlet.
-Make a plug to replace the electric solenoid in the compressor housing
-Install some real gauges ( fuel pres, boost, egt )
-Re-torque the head bolts.

I am probably forgetting some stuff....

interested in the results of that Holset upgrade. I'm working on a 93 and the lethargic H1C needs to go

[Metcalf]

No new progress on the turbo swap. All my time and funds are going towards my Willys rebuild....

[m715]

Just found your build here and skimmed though all the pages...nice fab work and quite the transformation over a stock 1st gen:Wow1:
Subscribed and I look forward to seeing more...keep up the good work!

[Metcalf]

Thank you, all my time is going towards my old Willys rebuild ( in the jeep section ) right now. The dodge will be getting some love this summer I hope. I could still sink $1000's of dollars and just as many hours into it, but it just flat works as it is....

[trust]

awesome thread! I am not all the way through yet but noticed you were talking springs/suspension and I wanted to make sure you were aware of Alcan spring there in Grand Junction, I have their springs on my Scrambler and my daughter's scout 800 and have been VERY happy with them. The one complaint people seem to have is that they sell you a finished, after sag height change and initially the amount of lift may be significantly above what you expect. My scrambler though rides like a dream with the Alcans...

[Metcalf]

A set of new springs is on the list for sure. Honestly, at this point the truck just works so well I can't bring myself to tear into it again. My Willys project has been sucking up ALL my time lately. After that one is 'done' I will take another look into the Dodge....

[bftank]

how are the pitbull tires holding up?

[Metcalf]

I have been super impressed with the new tires. They seems to be wearing REALLY well! Traction in the ice and snow is good. At this rate I will be getting at least a few more years out of them....

[bftank]

i was hoping you would say that.

i am doing military goodyears on the crewcab, just wanted to know i had alternatives that fit the hummer wheels

[oldestof11]

I just read this whole thread. I was getting bummed I couldn't do larger tires with out the lifts. Pure inspiration man!

[Metcalf]

I just read this whole thread. I was getting bummed I couldn't do larger tires with out the lifts. Pure inspiration man!

If your serious about running larger tires with no lift....

Find a dually bed and remove the outer fender, bingo, instant HUGE wheel opening. Having the bed painted to match is going to be pennies compared to all the custom work I did.

In the front, look into the fiberglass fenders from Trailer Products....

http://www.off-roadfiberglass.com/offroad/80sdodge.htm

You would have to build some custom inner fenders, but having the nice straight outer fenders would be SOOOOO nice!

I think the combo of the dually bed wheel opening and the fiberglass front fenders would look really good. With some careful work on the inner front fenders I think 38-40" tires would be possible with just a level factory truck ( basically 1-2" front lift ).

[oldestof11]

The bed I am looking for. The fiberglass front end I would not be too keen on using for durability. I can cut and weld. I actually like what you did.

[Metcalf]

The fiberglass fender is just about as durable as the factory dodge sheetmetal! :sombrero:

The dually bed has a MUCH higher opening than I did. All I did was basically horizontally stretch the wheel opening.

You can make anything.....its just time, money, tools, and quarters in the swear jar!

I like what I did too. It was just a lot of work.....

I think the opening of the trailer products 'glass fender would match up pretty dang well with the dually bed.

If you just have to have a steel from fender you could try and modifiy the wheel opening in front so its more like the dually opening. The dually opening doesn't have the formed edge like the stock front fender. It basically just has a 'flat' edge that is folded over to the inside if I remember right. I think this could be duplicated, but folding that edge cleanly would be a pain. I would probably advise welding in a 3/16-1/4" rod to the cut edge then welding a 4-6" wide strip to the rod to form the 'lip'. Then trim away the extra 'strip' material on the outside and inside to form a clean 1" wide 'lip' to the fender. Weld it all up....sand it down.....fill, sand, prime, paint :)

Then you would need to make some kind of inner fender.......

Fun Fun!

[lstzephyr]

You could always do the simple stretching that prerunner fenders like that trailer products ones are based of off. Cut any internal supports, slap a bottle jack behind the outer skin and pump away. You would probably need to reshape things but I bet if you flared it and then trimmed the edges you could clear some large tires.

[SChandler]

The problem with larger tires and the stock fenders isn't clearance directly above the tire, it is at the front and rear edges of the fender when the tire moves backwards (in relation to the truck) during compression and forward during extension and turning. At least, that's where my tires rub at on the front fenders. Hence the stretching. Those fiberglass fenders were designed for a truck with an IFS front suspension that move the tires (essentially) straight up and down in the fenderwell (hence the need to push the center of the fender out). I think Metcalf (and others) who have stretched the fenders are on the right track with the shape needed (assuming retention of the a leaf spring suspension).

Some other builds showing fender stretching ideas:
http://ramchargercentral.com/projects/'judge'-1987-w150-shortbox/
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=871896
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432322
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/project-started-pictures-t267491.html

[Metcalf]

While I agree that what these trucks need is a longer fender opening front to back......and that is why I did what I did.....

I am saying that the dually bed wheel opening AND the trailer products front fender would make a GREAT combo for running larger tires on these trucks. The amount of work would be like 1/10th what I had to go through....and mine is still rough looking. If you found a clean dually bed you could just have it sanded down and painted to match. Mounting the fiberglass front fender would be a bit of work, but the fender is all smooth and clean. The only real pain in the rear part would be making a new inner fender for the front. All the is kinda hidden though.....

Hour for Hour, if I was going to do it again, I would do the dually bed with no flare and the fiberglass front fender.....just saying.

If you REALLY want to get fancy we can talk about dropping the body on the frame an inch or two! That would bring the overall height of the truck down even more.....that would make that extra height over the wheel come in handy! :)

I would love to see someone mold a fender and bedside like mine out of thick heavy duty fiberglass......I said 'like' sense mine are pretty rough.....

[MrBeast]

Metcalf, I need to stop reading your threads, some of the things you do give me ideas...

Truck turned out good. I will be watching to see what else you do to it.

[Metcalf]

Use review update....

I recently towed my piece of junk trailer over to Moab for the weekend with my Willys on top of it. Overall I would guess it was about 4000lbs or so ( Willys + trailer ). I thought I would share a few observations.

-A hard side camper shell rocks when the wind blows 50mph and everyone else is in tents! I had thought about ditching the hard side camper shell but now I really don't think I could. The truck was just gently rocking side to side letting me sleep in a little too late in the morning.

-The truck needs a little bit more power and/or gearing. It gets the job done as is and doesn't do THAT bad for a stockish engine, 3.54 gears, and 39" tires. I got 15+mpg heading over. I haven't filled up from the way back yet, but it was all 4th gear because of the wind storm. It will be interesting to see what it did.

-I like the 8' bed. Plenty of room for gear, tools, a futon mattress, and a full size spare tire.

-I still want to find a way to connect the camper area to the truck cab to give the cab a little bit more room when you have bulky gear. It would also be nice to be able to move from the driving area to the camper without having to get out of the truck in a sand storm.

Just a few thoughts to share before I forget again. The truck is super simple and just works....

[benjamin]

This is one idea for connecting the camper and cab................................
http://www.technologylk.com/__850/CRL-Camper-to-Cab-Accordion-Boot-Seals.htm

[Metcalf]

This is one idea for connecting the camper and cab................................
http://www.technologylk.com/__850/CRL-Camper-to-Cab-Accordion-Boot-Seals.htm

That could work great! Thanks!

[Saiyan66]

Glad everything is working great for you. 3.54 gears with 39" tires is a little tall though. Probably would be right on with some 4.10's in it.

[lstzephyr]

I'll swap axles with you. I would love some 3.54s but you would have to wait until the next time I go across the country.:snorkel:

Did you ever swap in your 366 spring?

I second everything you said about the 8' bed and hard shell. It really is an awesome combination!

[Metcalf]

I'm probably going to go with 3.73's in the long run.......with a 2003ish 14-bolt rear axle with factory disc brakes.

The 3.54s actually work really well overall I feel. I don't tow that much with it, but when I do I can tow 90% of the time in 4th gear at 60ish without having to go into overdrive. I think towing in overdrive is a tranny killer with these trucks sometimes.....

I've ran a few different combos of tires on this....one being effectively the same as 39s with 4.10s ( or very close ) and I thought the truck was geared to low overall.

No 366 spring yet. Hopefully I will be able to give the dodge some love now that the Willys is getting close to being more 'done'

[Saiyan66]

Do you have the Getrag transmission or the NV4500?

[Metcalf]

Still the original Getrag.......300,000+ miles. I built a new PTO side plate that allows me to overfill it a bit. That seems to really help.

[lstzephyr]

I bet the 366 would make a large difference. It really makes the truck drive much better.

[Metcalf]

I bet the 366 would make a large difference. It really makes the truck drive much better.

I agree, I just need to the the Willys a little more reliable so that when that little top hat thing goes flying across the shop I can still get to work :)

I also have that he351cw turbo that needs to go on....and gauges.....and bigger brakes.....hydroboost....14-bolt rear axle.....center mounted winch.....

[oldestof11]

Heat, low oil, and lugging is a no no with these trans.

[Metcalf]

Heat, low oil, and lugging is a no no with these trans.

Yup, that is pretty much what I have been avoiding.

I think being able to tow in 4th really helps out also. With my tall gearing I can run 4th at 55-60 without much issue, and I generally don't tow much faster than that on twisty two lane roads around here. I came back from Moab last week with my Willys in a wicked wind storm in 4th gear like 90+% of the way. I still ended up getting 15.5mpg on that tank of fuel.

A am looking forward to playing with the truck again.....

[lstzephyr]

The little top hat isn't too hard to keep track of. I did my 366 in the driveway of my mom's house with a card table as a bench. I even had a old flower print table cloth lol.

The acceleration differences in our trucks was surprising last year. I could really tell when you ran out of gear even with my truck as heavy as it was. I was able to keep up but only because of my extra rpm.

My transmission makes funky noises sometimes, shifts slow, is geared weird but just keeps working. I think the getrag has a bad rap honestly. I've heard just as many issues with the autos, nv4500 and nv5600. I think I would be tempted to go fso or spicer if my trans went out.

[Metcalf]

The little top hat isn't too hard to keep track of. I did my 366 in the driveway of my mom's house with a card table as a bench. I even had a old flower print table cloth lol.

The acceleration differences in our trucks was surprising last year. I could really tell when you ran out of gear even with my truck as heavy as it was. I was able to keep up but only because of my extra rpm.

My transmission makes funky noises sometimes, shifts slow, is geared weird but just keeps working. I think the getrag has a bad rap honestly. I've heard just as many issues with the autos, nv4500 and nv5600. I think I would be tempted to go fso or spicer if my trans went out.

Yup, as soon as I can drive the Willys to work and back without needing a trailer I will tear into the truck a bit this summer. 366 spring, turbo, and gauges are at the top of the list.

I think the getrag works just fine. If you have one that has lasted this long it probably wasn't one with the bearing pre-load that was too high. I just keep feeding mine 5w30 synthetic and it seems to hold up just fine to my use. If it ever gives up the ghost I want to replace it with a G56 close ratio version.

[Metcalf]

Dang it.....1st major breakdown......

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/dodgefail.jpg

After about 350,000+ miles the clutch pushrod decided to break into two pieces. I had noticed an increased force and notchy shifts over the last week or so. Last night I finally found out why. The clutch pushrod had developed a bend, cracked, and finally let go as I was parking my truck at home after work.

This was the modified old original pushrod I had modified with the heavy dutch pivot to replace the worn out factory unit a while back.

I will pick up some parts after work today and make a heavy duty replacement.

[TheAlmightySam]

What in the world?

That seems like a really strange place for it to break.

[Metcalf]

It is right where the shaft necks down, it developed a bend in that location after a few million cycles, and then finally failed.

The material is basically cast pot metal....lame.

I am going to make a new one out of a grade 8 bolt on the lathe. I have to go pick up a new rod end. The old one had the cut off factory part epoxied in place.

[lstzephyr]

I have heard of that breaking before. If you don't mind showing a couple pictures of how you make it I would appreciate it. I have access to a small lathe here and I will probably copy your work.

[TheAlmightySam]

It is right where the shaft necks down

That would explain it! For whatever reason my tired eyes didn't notice it necks down there.

Look forward to seeing what you come up with. I'm sure mine'll get to that point sooner rather than later.

[Metcalf]

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Dodge%20project/newdodgepushrod.jpg

I stopped by the hardware store after work and picked up what I needed to make my heavy duty replacement pushrod.

A few minutes on the lathe and I was able to turn down a 4.5" long 1/2-20 bolt into the new pushrod. I needed to reduce the diameter to approx .350" to replicate the dia of the 'ball' on the factory unit. I then stepped down the diameter behind the 'ball' area a little bit for the teeth in the little spring clip on the clutch master to hold the pushrod in place.

The new push-rod then was threaded into a new rod end to fit my modified pedal linkage with a nut to lock everything into length. This new unit is now adjustable which is a bonus for tuning the pedal position and where the clutch lets up.

For those trying to do this, just use a 3/8 rod end and pin on the pedal instead of the 1/2" units I used. I think it would fit a little better, and you wouldn't have to turn the bolt down as much.

If some of you with Getrag dodge trucks are having notchy shifting I would check out your clutch linkage. I think once the linkage gets worn or bent a little bit you don't get full disengagement of the clutch leading to notchy shifting. With this new pushrod installed my truck now shifts SO MUCH better!

[Metcalf]

170,000+ views........DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNGGGGGGGG G

Hope everyone enjoys the thread! I will be doing some more work on the truck soon now that my Willys is 'done' (NOT!)

[TheAlmightySam]

We'll be watching!

Still one of the best threads on ExPo.

...though I'm blaming you for the hurting my wallet is taking paying for $5 a gallon diesel :eek::D

[Metcalf]

You can always look into blending and/or Biodiesel ;) I've had good success in my truck with whatever I put in the tank, it doesn't seem to care that much. I don't run 100% alternative fuels all the time, but I have run enough to know that my truck isn't going to blow up running the stuff. I am pretty careful with filtering and de-watering however. The misses teaches chemistry at the high school and uses biodiesel production as a unit.....I get to run the fuel for free :)

[Shiryas]

If its gonna break.

1) Glad it broke at home.

2) Glad it broke after work

:)

[Metcalf]

I rotated the tires by myself tonight....with a bottle jack, a jackstand, and a star wrench....fun.......

I discovered a little bit of cupping on the front tires on the inside. I think it might be time to invest a little money and time in the front axle.

[redthies]

We'll be watching!

Still one of the best threads on ExPo.

...though I'm blaming you for the hurting my wallet is taking paying for $5 a gallon diesel :eek::D


I'll second the props for a great thread. Also, don't feel too bad, we are paying close to $5.50 a gallon in BC. At least regular gas and diesel cost the same here. (That reeeeeally sucks for gas drivers!) I don't understand why people put up with diesel costing more in the US. Refinement costs are way lower...

[Metcalf]

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/Metcalfphoto/Rango/P1010068.jpg

Dang little Willys is always getting in the way!

Current pic of the truck as of yesterday. Still the same.

[bftank]

i really like the grey you have got on there, reminds me of a battleship! oddly enough diesel dropped below the price of gas up here. i had to tape my jaw shut i was so surprised!

[Metcalf]

I hope diesel drops in price here a little bit!

It's warm enough that I can run a high percentage of blend or BioDiesel now also.

[redthies]

Glad to hear diesel is dropping a bit. We are going to do a little tour down that way in mid sept. Grand Junction down to Cortez via Norwood and Sawpit to hopefully bump into some old friends. Where are you at Metcalf? For some reason Durango area is in my head.

The dilemma must be which of the awesome rigs to drive now. I love the Dodge, but the Willys and all WWII era jeeps have always been on "the list".

[Metcalf]

Yup, Durango...

Shoot me a PM when you firm up some dates.

Yes, its tough :) The Willys is finally getting to the point I can get some miles on it. I thought the Dodge got a lot of attention, its a stealth vehicle compared to the Willys. I swear I am going to cause a wreck driving the Willys around! It's like people have never seen an old flat fender or something. I am hoping that I can get the Willys to a point that I can drive it steady for a few months this summer. With that free time I can tear into some projects on the Dodge like the new turbo, gauges, bigger brakes, 14-bolt rear, twin stick t-case shifter, lockers, gears, winch, rear bumper, etc.

[Spencinator]

As a fellow Dodge owner I would like to thank you sir, for not Failing. Love the cummins and the willys!

[Metcalf]

Thank you!

[Boons]

I'm curious if you have some pictures of what you did with the inner fenders in the front?
Awesome build by the way.

[Metcalf]

Thanks.

The only section of the inner fenders that I sealed out was the one around the air cleaner. The others I just left open.

[lstzephyr]

My front fenders on my dodge have had a giant gaping hole in the drivers side internal fender for a couple years. No problems and I am not shy to take it through all sorts of muck.

[Boons]

http://img.tapatalk.com/b897de2b-87f6-8b8a.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/b897de2b-8815-85ae.jpg
Your a bad influence dude..

[Metcalf]

COOL!

[DoMiNiC1]

Gawd, every time I open this thread I want to go out and find a clean 1st gen!

[Metcalf]

http://img.tapatalk.com/b897de2b-87f6-8b8a.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/b897de2b-8815-85ae.jpg
Your a bad influence dude..

Are those 39.5, 41.5s, or 42s?

Care to share any details of your crossover conversion, front springs, and diff cover?

[Boons]

http://img.tapatalk.com/b897de2b-bb59-5cbb.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/b897de2b-bb6e-db47.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/b897de2b-bbaf-b121.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/b897de2b-bbd0-9e4e.jpg
42x15x17 Bias but I'm selling them to get a set of the 41.5 radial PBRs.

Springs are super lift 5.5" lift for 72-93 dodge gasser. They settled to about 3 inches with the cummins. I'm going to be getting some zero rates to gain another inch and move the axle forward to get the tires away from the cab.

For the rear I'm doing 6" super lift springs and jungles shackle flip to eliminate the 6 inch block and get 4 inches of lift.

X over is ORD, still waiting for my reinforcement plates from jungle off RCC.

Running 4.56 with the getrag

Diff cover is made by Riddler

[Metcalf]

Very cool, you should start a thread.

I agree that moving the axle forward would be a good idea, but it will start to effect the ability for the drag link to stay in the 'pocket' of the engine crossmember.

4.56 gearing with 42s should be good. Mine is ultra tall with 3.55s and 39" tires. Honestly, after thousands of miles it really works pretty dang well. The truck still knocks down 20mpg on highway trips as long as you don't try and go 80mph. For me, I think 3.73s would be really good. 4.56 gears come out to about the same as stock 3.55 gearing with stock sized tires....which I thought was a little bit too low?

[Boons]

I had 3.55 with 33s and I liked it. Tall enough I could do the hi way no problem, tow well, and able to hit the trails in confidence that I had enough gear. So with 4.56 and 42 being damn near identical I'm happy. Also my getrag is less than healthy and likes to slam out of first, synchro maybe? So at what ever point I have to pull it a nv4500 is going in.

About the zero rates I've heard a few times now about interference with the cross member but I'm looking into modifying it and stuffing a panhard somewhere.

I have a build page on Ramchargercentral.

[Metcalf]

UMMMMMM......

[Bogie]

Coming along nicely Boons



112960

[BBslider001]

First of all, thanks for assuming the worst....I have never had anything but positive words for ANYONE'S project on here. I am an adult and don't really care one way or the other what someone does or does not do with their project. Apparently though, my 6 year old niece feels different and decided to say so on the thread when my laptop was open. My fault for that, but I am NOT and was not trolling and never have I belong to many different forums and never ever have said anything negative about another man's project. But, for those who got offended, I am sorry I guess....sensitive world these days.

[highcountry]

I found this thread and read half way through thinking to myself "wow, what a cool build" when I discovered that I had already posted here on page 34... Anyway, I read the rest of it and just wanted to drop a note saying great work, this really is one incredible build. And the fact that it has been a daily driver the whole time just adds to it! Work on my truck has been at a stand still, although it has been dutifully pulling my raft trailer wherever I want to go (amid sneers from people driving fancy new trucks faster and more comfortably). I have given thought to selling it even, to buy something a little more civilized. But, reading your thread and the Bigger Red Pig thread and a few others give me restored motivation to turn away the low ball offers, get my hands dirty fixing the laundry list of little things that need to be fixed, and keep pounding the ground with that old tractor. So, Thanks!

[Metcalf]

I found this thread and read half way through thinking to myself "wow, what a cool build" when I discovered that I had already posted here on page 34... Anyway, I read the rest of it and just wanted to drop a note saying great work, this really is one incredible build. And the fact that it has been a daily driver the whole time just adds to it! Work on my truck has been at a stand still, although it has been dutifully pulling my raft trailer wherever I want to go (amid sneers from people driving fancy new trucks faster and more comfortably). I have given thought to selling it even, to buy something a little more civilized. But, reading your thread and the Bigger Red Pig thread and a few others give me restored motivation to turn away the low ball offers, get my hands dirty fixing the laundry list of little things that need to be fixed, and keep pounding the ground with that old tractor. So, Thanks!

Yup, drive it most every day. It always does what I ask. On the one hand I could spend tons more money on it, on the other hand it just keeps working.

I have my moments of weakness just like everyone else. I have been lightly scouting for a 2006-2007 dodge 2500 5.9 regular cab, longbox, white newer project truck. Those things are NOT cheap though so I will just keep driving my tractor around and waiting for the right deal.

I will keep tinkering, but honestly my Willys project has been more interesting for me lately. Its nice NOT to have to drive the Willys every day. It lets me take a little more time with things, try a LOT more different things, and doesn't bother me as much when they don't work.

I will say that old iron is getting RARE these days. I think cash for clunkers and the high scrap prices have REALLY taken a big bite out of the available stock of old iron.

[rxinhed]

The yards near me are only keeping the old trucks for a short time before crushing them. I sought a Ramcharger for some interior bits, they'd already crushed it after 4 days in the yard. Sucks!

[Metcalf]

Don't tell me stuff like that. It makes me all teary eye'd. Crushing old vehicles is the WORST thing they can do......

[chilliwak]

Yup, Durango...

Shoot me a PM when you firm up some dates.

Yes, its tough :) The Willys is finally getting to the point I can get some miles on it. I thought the Dodge got a lot of attention, its a stealth vehicle compared to the Willys. I swear I am going to cause a wreck driving the Willys around! It's like people have never seen an old flat fender or something. I am hoping that I can get the Willys to a point that I can drive it steady for a few months this summer. With that free time I can tear into some projects on the Dodge like the new turbo, gauges, bigger brakes, 14-bolt rear, twin stick t-case shifter, lockers, gears, winch, rear bumper, etc.

Hey Metcalf, are you really going to put a 14 bolt rear end in that Dodge? Just curious as to why you would do that as I was of the assumtion that the stock Dodge rear ends were bulletproof:Wow1:. Cheers, Chilli.:)

[Bogie]

D70's have limited life spans behind Cummins engines

[chilliwak]

D70's have limited life spans behind Cummins engines

Really? I am surprised :Wow1:to hear that. Are the 14 bolt full floaters any better?:ylsmoke:

[bftank]

they can be if you get rid of the crush sleeve and replace it with a solid bushing.

dana 80's have a bit more strength than the 14 bolt though. although i have seen quite a few ads on craigslist selling 80's that are needing rebuilt.

[Metcalf]

The 14-bolt is a good option for the 1st gen Cummins in my opinion.

-The ring gear is still 10.5" between the two, but the 14-bolt adds a 3rd pinion bearing similar to a ford 9". This makes it VERY strong for its size.
-Your general 14-bolt is 67" wide vs the 65" wide D70 in the 1st gen Cummins. This is a near perfect match for the 67.5" wide D60 front
-Both are 8 on 6.5 lug pattern so you get to keep your existing wheels.
-The late model 14-bolts from about 2003 have factory disc brakes with a hat style parking brake.

All in all I think they are just about the perfect axle for a 1st gen Cummins chassis.
If I could get some time away from my Willys project I might swap one in some day......

[rxinhed]

-The late model 14-bolts from about 2003 have factory disc brakes with a hat style parking brake.

The late model axles are all AAM, like the newer Dodge offerings. I've seen a local Dodge sled puller with a Dana 110 rear axle.

http://www.aam.com/Company-Overview/2001-Present-90.html

[Metcalf]

The late model axles are all AAM, like the newer Dodge offerings. I've seen a local Dodge sled puller with a Dana 110 rear axle.

http://www.aam.com/Company-Overview/2001-Present-90.html

Nope. Some 6.0L GM 2500HD trucks had the last of the GM 14-bolt axles ( full float and disc brakes ).....around 2003. I am not sure of the exact year range. These where axles with a finned style late 14-bolt housings with the typical old style bolt-on pinion retainer. They are pretty easy to spot once you know what to look for. These axles will take normal 14-bolt gears and lockers.

[chilliwak]

Thanks for posting that info Metcalf. Good to know when hunting for a good replacement axel with disk brakes....:)

[Boons]

Still happy with your maddogs? Having second thoughts on getting a tire much bigger than 40". I don't understand why pitbull doesnt make a 40" radial, the 38.5 maddog is to small and the 41.5 rocker is too big...Seems only the extremely overpriced like to make 40" radials. Anyways, my eye is pretty well set on the 38.5" maddogs. I'll have lots of gear with 4.56 and shouldn't have to sweat to much on breakage.

[Metcalf]

Still like them. I have had them through just about every kinda condition and they have done well for me.

They are tall for a 38.5 also. I think even on my 9" wheels they are over 39" tall.

Tread seems to be wearing well.

I would buy them again

[rxinhed]

When you drove past me on the highway in Durango, headed south near the USBR office, the growl was appreciable. However, the overall appearance of your truck was great. Loved the big tires with little lift. :ylsmoke:

[Metcalf]

Thank you. It looks stock....but not....

[kfgk14]

From what I've read, dodges have issues with the front end's durability and longevity. Have you found this to be the case? And, if so, could this be rectified by swapping in a Chevy/Ford kingpin D60, and would this swap improve durability? I assume new spring hangers would be necessary, and modifications to the steering. Would that be worth the investment, or is beefing up the Dodge axle a better option?

Thanks.

[Metcalf]

On this generation truck....not a problem.

The front axle is a kingpin style dana 60 almost identical to the GM version, just about 2" narrower with slightly different brakes. There where some odd D61 versions with 3.07 gears from what I have heard, but still basically the same thing.

Mine has over 300,000 miles with very little issue. I should probably rebuild the kingpins soon.....300K is still a pretty good service life on those parts.

[kfgk14]

Thanks.

[Dustin Olson]

I really like your truck man!!! Working on piecing together an '80's chevy crew cab with a p pump 12 valve!!! You have given me alot more ideas!!! Def want to cut the fenders like you did and stuff some of those XML's under it!!! Good work and I love how you use the truck daily, same as what I have to do with mine so my build (when it starts) will be fast and furious to get the cummins in and drive able, but after that I will slowly do the rest of my LONGGGG list of stuff i wanta do!!! Keep up the good work!

[Metcalf]

Thanks, the truck has been great overall for what I have invested in it.

All in all this truck is probably close to 'done'. It all depends on how long I want to keep it. I have had a yearning for something a little bit newer/nicer/etc lately. No big rush though, this one just keeps going and going and going.....

[redthies]

Did you see the '03 Drummond (huntsonora) just scored? It is sweet! Don't part with your 1st gen if you get a newer one. I think you would regret it later... (damn, missed 734) :elkgrin:

[Dustin Olson]

well if you do ever want to sell it, lemme know!!! id be interested!!! My cousin lives in Lake City, CO. I wouldnt sell it if i were you!! its a neat truck!!! =) i'd buy it if you were sellling for sure though! what is the backspace on the rims you have, btw?

[Metcalf]

Everything is always for sale :) You just have to dazzle me with the right number.....and then give me enough time to fix all the little things that need fixing.

The rims are 5" backspacing, 17x9, 3600lb load rating

[Dustin Olson]

HAHA well i dunno if i can dazzle you sir... College Student working full time... Not the best budget situation... lol

and cool i really like how the tucked in style turned out!!!

[Metcalf]

Thanks, no problem. It's not really THAT special of a truck, it's just a beat up, used up, truck that got one more life ;)

[Dustin Olson]

Haha thats what i like about it though!!! got a bit of a story behind it... Unique look... and you have done everything you've done to it with the idea of reliabilty in mind... It's hard to find these trucks that someone has turned the pump as much as they can and bog it every chance they can jus to blow some smoke..

[oldestof11]

Edit: I shouldn't be up this late replying... :drool:

[Metcalf]

don't worry, I won't tell anyone.

[CumminAlong]

Very nice Metcalf. Just read the whole thread over 3 days! :sombrero:
Making me wish I'd gone with a 1st gen for my project, but I still have a bad taste in my mouth from my old 93 going through 3 VE's in 140k! I love the 39s with the little lift, you're making me think my 37s and 3.55s will be solid. I like that. :chef:

[Metcalf]

Thanks.

Good luck on your project.

Are the 39s and 3.55s perfect, no. Is it workable for most things, yup. Start in 1st and 5th is only for 60-65+mph.

[CumminAlong]

Right. I think 3.73s would be ideal as well. What I really meant was not perfect-- just usable for the time being.

[Metcalf]

200,000+ views....holy cow.....

[bftank]

i am loving my 37's and 4.10's in the f350. powerstrokes tend to operate better at higher rpms than cummins though.

[Metcalf]

i am loving my 37's and 4.10's in the f350. powerstrokes tend to operate better at higher rpms than cummins though.

Yup, I think the main point is that diesel trucks, especially manual transmission versions, are VERY tolerant of taller gearing.

[blakeape]

I have a healthy 1997 Cummins/NV4500 4x4 with 4.10's and 37" MTR's. The truck put down 338HP and 797Ft lbs torque at the rear wheels on the 37's with really basic mods, that said I love my 4.10's and regularly pull long distances at around 20,000 lbs. That's my Dodge, my 1 Ton Tacoma,10K capacity trailer, slide in camper, a bunch of extra fuel, tools and parts. I don't think most people would really notice the skip from 3.55's to 3.73's I'd say go to 4.10's and don't look back!

[Metcalf]

I have a healthy 1997 Cummins/NV4500 4x4 with 4.10's and 37" MTR's. The truck put down 338HP and 797Ft lbs torque at the rear wheels on the 37's with really basic mods, that said I love my 4.10's and regularly pull long distances at around 20,000 lbs. That's my Dodge, my 1 Ton Tacoma,10K capacity trailer, slide in camper, a bunch of extra fuel, tools and parts. I don't think most people would really notice the skip from 3.55's to 3.73's I'd say go to 4.10's and don't look back!

Sure, but what I am saying is that you don't really NEED to change the gears in the 1st place most of the time. I tow on my 3.55's all the time. Would 3.73 or 4.10 be better? Sure, but the 3.55s really aren't THAT bad....