Series Land Rover/Defender internal storage

[Snagger]

Just a few ideas for 109/110s used as family vehicles.

I don't like storing farm jacks outside because they rust and because they make go missing, so I secured mine to the side of the load bay, together with the wheel brace and the handle for the bottle jack (the bottle jack is clamped under the rear passenger seat with a Quickfist, along with the big tyre compressor),

The left wall behind the second row has two nets for maps, cagoules, hats and so on, while the right side has velcro straps securing the first aid kit and a row of clips carrying chemical glow-sticks.

[Snagger]

The cubby box holds all the winching gear, and has a Halon extinguisher and Maglite "Quickfisted" on the back for easy reach. A Mobile Storage Solutions cooker box is mounted on the back door, but I use it as a lockable storage unit - I don't like the idea of naked flames that close to the vehicle (especially its fuel tank) and don't use it for cooking at all. Black nylon "boot tidy" pouches are fitted next to each second row seat for keeping the kids' books, toys, water bottles and games.

[Snagger]

Heavy articles are strapped to the load bay floor using cargo rails, 20l of water is carried in a plastic jerrycan in one external jerry can locker (courtesy of a scrapped MoD 110, but modern equivalents are available from companies like Foley) while a collection of engine oil, transmission oil, brake fluid, LM grease and a grease gun are carried in the other locker.

[Snagger]

Smaller items to be carried internally go into a pair of custom boxes that fit above the wheel arches, shaped to make full use of the body curve. These are level with the body tub cappings (the galvanised parts on older models). Mine were made to 700mm length in order to clear the second row of seats, but owners of vehicles with no rear seating could have several of these lockers covering the entire wheel arch spaces.

Lightweight bulky items such as sleeping bags, bags of clothing and so on go on the roof rack, where I made a dust and weather proof section by boarding the rack with marine ply and using a roof tent cover (given to me as a new, unused spare). Ratchet straps keep it tight on the move, so no flapping in the wind.

The Alko wheel chocks had their own storage brackets which just happened to perfectly match the spacing of the bars on the Brownchurch rack, so their positioning was simple. The waffle boards are stowed with bungies between the chocks and the front of the roof tent bag, exactly filling the lateral space of the rack. They serve a second purpose of blocking the wind from the bag when its empty and bungied flat.

[James86004]

Nice storage solutions.

I have toyed with the idea of making hatches in the floorboards for compartments where spare parts like water pumps, wheel bearings, etc could be stowed out of the way. I would have to keep the parts in water-tight bags.

Right now I have a wooden box on the floor in front of the 2nd row seats that is 3 inches tall and spans from the left to the right door where all my tools and most of my spares are stowed. My 8-year-old's feet still don't touch it when she is in her seat, so I view it as a booster step for her.

[Snagger]

I have considered a similar system of under floor lockers. I have a factory-fitted "tool box" in the rear left corner of the tub, behind the left wheel. I can't have a mirror image on the right because of the rear tank filler neck, but have been considering a pair of alloy boxes with flanged tops that would sit through holes cut in the wheel arch top fore and aft of the fuel filler for staorage of tools and parts. I was also considering something similar in the front end of the tub floor, ahead of the axle, as the 109 hard top has a constant level rear floor, not stepped like a 109 station wagon, wasting a large void where the station wagon's second row footwell is. There is also the possibility of shallow stroage boxes cut into the front footwell floor panels, sticking down up to four inches - that should be enough on both sides for a fairly comprehensive tool set. The only trouble would be waterproofing them.

[Toy-Roverlander]

That looks very neat! Well done!

My setup is a bit more permanent. I've got a platform in the back, at the height af the body cappings in my 109"station wagon on which I sleep. It's got a 2,5inch foam matress on top, really comfy.

Behind the front seats, basically the 2nd row footwell, there are 3 compartments. The one on the drivers side (RHD) is the smallest and houses one of 4 (!) batteries (it's 24V, so to have aux batteries you need 4 in total ;) ) and currently the subwoofer from my laptop speaker system.
Just behind there, right where the wheelarch starts, or right next to the doorlock from the 2nd row door, sits my bag with recovery kit.
Behind my middle seat there's room for clothes and whatever else I want to stuff in there. And behind the passenger seat, in the 2nd row footwell, sits my 40ltr Waeco fridge on a custom made slider, so it slides out through the passenger door. In that compartment, under my bed, the 2 invertors are mounted as well (24-12 and 24-220).
Where the backseats used to sit are now 4 jerrycans situated for water, and the electric pump and ceramic filter as well. So I've got 80ltr of water with me if I fill them all up..

Sitting behind the watercontainers are 4 10ltr jerrycans for engine oil, gearbox oil, coolant and petrol for the Coleman cooker.
I've also got the toolbox in the back of the left wheelarch in which I've got stuff like wheelbearing grease, coppergrease, gasket paper, bits of wire, hydraulic jack, wheelbrace and a funnel for the Coleman.
On top of this toolbox I've got my little platform and the Coleman cooker that fit on the lefthandside of the body, on the outside.
On top of the right hand side wheelarch is storage room for the sleeping bag, blankets and pillows. This can be accessed through a hatch under the mattress.
In the load area are 4 big boxes. 2 are for food and cooking gear, 1 is for tools and stuff and the other is for other stuff (my hammock is in that one :) )
Right underneath the frame of the platform is a holder in which the folding table slides into, neatly out of the way.

The highlift jack is mounted onto my spare wheel on the spare wheel carrier on the back, obviously with a lock. Second spare is on the bonnet.

I'm still not ready. I want to fit those cargo nets to my front doors and the back of the middle seat back rest. I want to have the ground anchor and shovel mounted on the roofrack, as well as the waffle boards.
And I still need to make an awning..

One is never truly ready ;)

Of most things I don't have pics yet, as it is sort of a work in progress..

[TeriAnn]

on board storage, a subject near and dear to my heart and I count myself blessed to have a 109 regular to store things in. By the way, I think it was a BRILLIANT idea not to put this thread in the Land Rover topic area. It's been much too nasty in there.

Fuel: First instead of jerry cans, I have 42 US gallons built in. Two under seat tanks plus a rear fuel tank. If I needed really silly range I have 4 20L and 3 10L jerry cans I can load but so far I've never been farther than almost my last drop of fuel from a filling station.

Water: I have a custom made stainless steel water tank that fits in the unused side bench space in front of the left rear wheel, between the rear wheel well and the behind rear fuel tank outrigger. It sits in a cutout on the top of the rear bench with a flange along the top which anchors it to the top of the side bench. The bottom of the tank rests on the front spring outrigger. The water tank holds 15 US gallons of water, about the same as 3 20L water cans. There is a water pump. filter system & faucet that feeds a pair of sinks inside.


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/GRleftFillers98.JPEG
The left filler is the front left fuel tank, the right one is for the water tank.
The water filler is plastic below the cap.


Propane: On the right side opposite the water tank is a built in horizontal 5 gallon propane tank. It too is sitting in otherwise unused space inside the side bench and is mounted on the front spring outrigger.


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/GRpropanetank98.JPEG
I cut a rectangular access hole in the side of the body and used a 109 rear toolbox lid for a door


Second battery: The second battery is a deep cycle group 24 that sits inside the right rear toolbox area.


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/GRjack.jpeg

The rear tank filler is from a D110 high capacity pickup. There is enough space between the filler housing and the rear wheel arch for the battery. The plastic battery box as a little too tall so I cut a hole in the bottom of the toolbox area and added a shallow drop box that gave mme the extra inch or so I needed for the battery.

Next to the jack on the back of the truck you can see a military LR plug. I gutted the plug and inserted a make mains connector so I can plug my truck in if I'm near a mains outlet. Also inside the rear toolbox area is a permanently wired in 3 stage battery charger for the rear battery, an interior duplex mains connector so I have use mains power while docked and wiring to go to my dual voltage refrigerator.

Primary battery: When I made the V8 swap I lost the engine bay space for my battery so I had to get a little creative considering that both under seat locations already had fuel tanks. I chose to have a galvanized steel box made up and mounted the battery under the passenger floor.


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/GRdetailPics/battBox.jpg
The battery fits inside the box and has recessed posts so nothing sits higher than the battery box flanges. The flanges sit on top of the bulkhead outrigger, frame rail, and front fuel tank outrigger. The box is not as deep as the frame rails. Below is a picture from the front. The box is not quite as deep as the fuel tank.


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/GRdetailPics/battBoxfront.jpg

I have a long narrow 2-1/2 gallon compressed air tank that is bolted to the underside of the body right behind the transfercase. It is a well protected space that is otherwise unused and is a reservoir for my Quickair2 air pump.

So I carry 42 US gallons of fuel, 15 gallons of drinking water, 5 gallons of propane, batteries and an air tank at frame level in otherwise unused space.

Tools: My tools and most of my internally stowed recovery gear sits behind the seats in the space between the seat backs and the behind the seat bulkhead. I carry Series bottle jack, a Discovery I bottle jack, grease gun and oil gun in a box on the roof rack. Also on the roof rack is a parts cleaning kit that consists of two 5L jerry cans (one for solvent & one empty for used solvent & oil) and a parts cleaning tray with brushes. Back before I converted to 24 spline axles from & rear I carried a single large jack stand in case I needed to pull a front axle on the trail.

Inside gear storage:


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/rearinterior.jpeg
This is a picture of my rear interior fully loaded to stay out on the trail indefinitely.

Left side, rear to front:


Dormobile kitchen unit - This unit has a propane cooker with 2 burners, a broiler, a sink and storage area underneath. I store my dishes, cookware, canned and bottled foods in this storage space

Dormobile Spice rack (above left side window) - This is a storage shelf that sits above the stove . I usually keep flatware, pot holders, fire lighter, spray cooking oil, a cereals bowl & cup here. Oh & spices too.

Dormobile top bunk - A side fold out cot mounted at the roof line left side and protected by a white nagahide cover when stowed. The bunk is 6 feet long. I have a right side bunk in storage.

Sink stand - This is a custom sink stand that holds a second sink. The front access door folds up to provide additional work space. There is a water pump and filter mounted below the sink. The faucet swings for both sinks and can point out the side window if I need to run water outside the vehicle. I store cleaning supplies, a stove top toaster and ale inside this cabinet.

Left side wardrobe - This is a custom made cabinet modeled after a factory Dormobile cabinet. A 15 gallon stainless steel water tank is fitted below this cabinet. There is a rough screen filter and 1 way flow valve near the cabinet base. You can see a porta-potty in its stowed position in the cabinet base. This cabinet hast three shelves plus vertical stowage for a camera tripod and a pick handle. In this cabinet I keep clothing, shoes, books and recovery straps.

Right side, rear to front:


Air pump (not visible, at rear of body) - Quickair2 12 Volt pump provides are to the rear ARB locker and for airing up tyres. There is a gauge & quick release connector easily accessible at the rear.

Folding jump seat & rear battery - This is a standard Series Land Rover folding rear seat. In the side bench area under the seat is a deep cycle 12V battery that powers the rear electrics and the radios.

Refrigerator & stand - This is a Norcold (same as ARB) refrigerator sitting on a stand I fabricated. The base of the refrigerator stand is storage space with a flip down door. In here I stow enough engine oil for an oil change, oil filter, fuel filter and a bottle of power steering fluid. The upper sides of the truck slope inwards a little so the fridge needs to be about 2 inches from the body side in order to have open lid clearance. I stow a large griddle between the refrigerator and body. I also use the refrigerator as a step to reach the top bunk and as a table for eating.

Dormobile wardrobe - I have added a shelf neat the top and a couple racks inside the door. On the shelf I store things like spare fan belts, aaa 300 watt DC to AC converter, toilet paper, Kleenex, and towels. Below in the main area I stow my nut & bolt box, a wine storage container, sleeping bag and inflatable mattress. There is a fold up jump seat built into the bottom of the wardrobe. There is space for a couple large cervical boxes behind the lowered jump seat. The inside of the door has a mirror with two racks below. The racks hold things like deodorant, hand lotion and other toiletries.


Tea cabinet (across body rear above the rear door) - Added in 1999. I got this idea from touring Herbert Zipkin's Land Rover. It is a long cabinet that stretches the entire rear of the vehicle. Herb used it for map storage, I use the space for tea storage. I have space for 7 verities of tea back there plus a repair kit. The kit contains spare bulbs, fuses, a snap resetting kit and a tarp eye resetting kit. There is also a box of water proof matches. Yes I drink lot of tea and I like variety.



http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/GRktichen1t.jpg
Set up for cooking


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/GRdishes1.jpg
Set up for doing dishes

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/GRdetailPics/GR_knifeRack.jpg
My most recent interior project is the making of this knife rack out of oak. I'm not much good at word working so I'm quite proud of this addition to my rear interior. The cleaning supplies get stowed in a covered sink when on the trail. There is a magnet mounted behind the knifes in the rack so they reside in the holder. And then of course my curtains in their stowed position.

[Snagger]

Very nice, Toy and TeriAnn.

My 109 gets used as my daily commuter to work and also as a family vehicle. The whole family (four of us) went on that trip around the Alps, so I can't strip out all the rear seats. All my solutions need to be a compromise between expedition and regular domestic use, or quickly changed over. The only big change between these two applications is the thrird row of seats - the Exmoor Trim forward facing fold up seats can be slipped of their mounting hinges and refit in a few seconds, and it only takes a couple of minutes to remove or refit their seat belt buckles to the rear floor. The galvanised storage boxes then take the place of the seats on top of the wheel arches.

Having a three tank, 42ImpGal fuel system makes a vast difference - I don't need to worry about fuel cans or even pulling over to refuel from them - I can just select another tank. It frees up a lot of space and keeps the CoG nice and low. That's why I can afford to use the jerrycan lockers for lubricants and water, rather than fuel cans. Of course, for extreme long range use, I'd still have the option of using fuel cans too.

TeriAnn's battery box is the sort of thing I am considering (though shallower) as a couple of tool boxes, with another couple either side of the filler neck of the rear tank to store parts like wheel bearings, UJs, filters, lubricants and so on. That would allow me to carry two water cans, rather than just one (which would limit range in arid areas).

[Toy-Roverlander]

Thank you :)

It's sometimes a bit difficult using the vehicle as a daily driver as well. I only have the 3seats in the front (the standard ones, not the high-back ones, as these are the only seats I've EVER sat in where I don't get a backpain from)
But you can only really use 2 seats, unless the 3rd person is really small :).

At the moment I only have a rear tank. But I want to fit the underseat tank on the drivers side (RHD).

I've got the following on chassis height:
- rear tank
- underseat tank on the drivers side
- battery tray with 3 batteries in it underneath the passenger seat, next to the chassis.
- 2 fuel jerrycans will be mounted behind the bullbar, that's moved forward a bit, and they will sit on their side on front of the wings. This way I have as much as if I would have 3 tanks. And here in Europe I don't think I'm going to need the jerry's.

I wanted to fit 2 10ltr jerrycan holders between the 2nd and 3rd chassis outrigger, for engine and gearbox oil, but decided against as they will get very, very dirty when going offroad. So they are now stored inside.

TeriAnn, I'm very impressed with your setup. It looks very spacious and very neat, there's no stuff lying around everywhere. But hey, you've got 30years experience and the time to make it just perfect ;).
By the looks of it you still have a fair bit of room in front of the underseat tanks. That's good to know, I could fit some storage boxes over there as well.
Even the front wings could be use, but I'm not sure about that one, it could be quite difficult to make it a perfect fit and hard to waterproof.

Uhm, after a tenth look at your pictures I started to wonder where you sleep? Is it in that upper bunk you've got in a dormobile at roof level?


A 2door will give extra storage room in those sidelockers and under the floor where the 2nd row footwell would be in a stationwagon.
But I liked the looks of the stationwagon and the 2nd row passengerdoor is perfect for having the fridge slide out from.



(how do I put photos IN the post, apparantly I can attach a certain photo
only once)

[TeriAnn]

It's sometimes a bit difficult using the vehicle as a daily driver as well.

When the weather is dry and not overly cold my TR3 is my daily driver


http://www.tjwakeman.net/Images/TWTR.jpg

But when the weather turns wet or quite cold it is my Land Rover's turn to be the daily steed. Obviously from looking at my vehicles there is no children involved in daily transportation which simplifies my logistics considerably. Though I single camp, my Land Rover is set up for two with two front seats, space for two bunks (only one installed currently) and two rear folding jump seats, one at the front & one at the rear. I don't see how you can fit more than two people without moving part of the camp outside the vehicle then a 109 stationwagon starts looking attractive.


I only have the 3seats in the front (the standard ones, not the high-back ones, as these are the only seats I've EVER sat in where I don't get a backpain from)
But you can only really use 2 seats, unless the 3rd person is really small :).

I removed the middle seat for additional storage space. I built a centre cubby box to sit between the stock front seats (I like them too) and use the space where the centre seat back goes to mount a largish fire extinguisher.

The length and width of my cubby box matches the centre seat bottom allowing me to reuse the seat locating brackets. I piled a bunch of books on the seatbox where the cubby box sits to determine the height of my cubby box. When I found a height that was a comfortable arm rest high that gave me an easy slide to the gear shift lever I made that height the vertical dimension of my cubby box. I have a factory optional drop tray that goes under the centre seat which forms the bottom of my cubby box. I've heavily insulated the drop tray as it sits over the transfercase and can get warm while driving all day. The top of my cubby box is side hinged to open on the side next to the driver for easy access. If it were rear hinged the top would interfere with my fire extinguisher.

This is where I store the stuff I need to keep handy while traveling.



I wanted to fit 2 10ltr jerrycan holders between the 2nd and 3rd chassis outrigger, for engine and gearbox oil, but decided against as they will get very, very dirty when going offroad. So they are now stored inside.

I keep my 90 wt and spare undiluted antifreeze in 5L jerry cans. They are a handy size, weigh less and don't take up much space. I keep them on the roof rack with the parts cleaning kit (has 5L solvent can & empty 5L liquid vehicle waste can).

My refrigerator site on a side bench and overhangs enough for me to make a small cabinet a quart oil container wide. So I keep enough oil for a complete oil change, a spare oil & fuel filter and a container of power steering fluid under the refrigerator overhang. On the left side there the box was cut out just enough to add a fuel tank there is still enough of the old seat box storage space left for me to store brake fluid, a can of liquid wrench and spray on contact cleaner.


TeriAnn, I'm very impressed with your setup. It looks very spacious and very neat, there's no stuff lying around everywhere. But hey, you've got 30years experience and the time to make it just perfect ;).

I camped in my Land Rover for almost 2 decades before making any changes beyond the propane and extra fuel tanks, then nearly a year with drawings tape measure and card board mockups between the time I purchased the Dormobile kit and the time I installed the interior. I took a task based approach. What do I need for sleeping, preparing a meal, cleaning up after a meal. That sort of thing. Anything that could be used for two or more tasks got the Teriann seal of approval. Single taskers got looked at very very closely and a lot of ideas didn't make it because it was a single tasker and not absolutely essential for that single task. When I got the interior installed I took the vehicle on a 3 month test camping trip to see how well things worked. Thankfully my preplanning worked out and all I've needed since then as been comfort refinements.




Even the front wings could be use, but I'm not sure about that one, it could be quite difficult to make it a perfect fit and hard to waterproof.

I once ran across a guy in Arizona who was up from Texas who worked in aircraft fabrication. He made some interesting wing drop boxes using aircraft hardware.


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/wingbox.jpeg

The owner built an aluminum box and secured it to the underside of the wing above the tyre. The cut in the wing is slightly larger than the opening in the top of the box so the lid can rest on the upper lip of the box. He used a stainless steel piano hinge and flush mounting aircraft latches. He has a box on each front wing. One stores chains and the other is a tool box.


Uhm, after a tenth look at your pictures I started to wonder where you sleep? Is it in that upper bunk you've got in a dormobile at roof level?

Yep a fold out cot like bunk that is at roof level when the top is down.


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Dormobile/pictures/topBunkEarly.jpg
Here's a picture showing one of the bunks extended.

[Toy-Roverlander]

Lots of good solutions here.


When the weather is dry and not overly cold my TR3 is my daily driver
But when the weather turns wet or quite cold it is my Land Rover's turn to be the daily steed. Obviously from looking at my vehicles there is no children involved in daily transportation which simplifies my logistics considerably. Though I single camp, my Land Rover is set up for two with two front seats, space for two bunks (only one installed currently) and two rear folding jump seats, one at the front & one at the rear. I don't see how you can fit more than two people without moving part of the camp outside the vehicle then a 109 stationwagon starts looking attractive.

TR3's are awesome! Expensive though over here... I like the TR5 too, which is, IIRC, a TR4 but with the 6cylinder in it.
Over here it's quite expensive to own a newer car. Road tax is horribly expensive, so Í only have the Landy. When a vehicle is over 25years old you don't have to pay roadtax and insurance is really cheap. Anyway, I would like a softtop 88", not as a daily driver, more a fun vehicle.
My Landy is setup to accomodate 2 people, even though at the moment I'm on my own.




I removed the middle seat for additional storage space. I built a centre cubby box to sit between the stock front seats (I like them too) and use the space where the centre seat back goes to mount a largish fire extinguisher.

The length and width of my cubby box matches the centre seat bottom allowing me to reuse the seat locating brackets. I piled a bunch of books on the seatbox where the cubby box sits to determine the height of my cubby box. When I found a height that was a comfortable arm rest high that gave me an easy slide to the gear shift lever I made that height the vertical dimension of my cubby box. I have a factory optional drop tray that goes under the centre seat which forms the bottom of my cubby box. I've heavily insulated the drop tray as it sits over the transfercase and can get warm while driving all day. The top of my cubby box is side hinged to open on the side next to the driver for easy access. If it were rear hinged the top would interfere with my fire extinguisher.
This is where I store the stuff I need to keep handy while traveling.

Cubbyboxes are very usefull indeed. But I sleep in the back, and usually I climb in from the front seats. Than it's not so handy to have a cubbybox. Now I've got lots of room in the front. And I'll be fitting a cargo net soon to the back of the middle seat backrest for maps and stuff. And if I want to store something I can chuck it in the clothing storage behind the middle seat.
And I'll have to make that little box to fit underneath the middle seat in the seatbox. Quite handy, not many people (who don't know Landy's that is) know about it.



I keep my 90 wt and spare undiluted antifreeze in 5L jerry cans. They are a handy size, weigh less and don't take up much space. I keep them on the roof rack with the parts cleaning kit (has 5L solvent can & empty 5L liquid vehicle waste can).
My refrigerator site on a side bench and overhangs enough for me to make a small cabinet a quart oil container wide. So I keep enough oil for a complete oil change, a spare oil & fuel filter and a container of power steering fluid under the refrigerator overhang. On the left side there the box was cut out just enough to add a fuel tank there is still enough of the old seat box storage space left for me to store brake fluid, a can of liquid wrench and spray on contact cleaner.

I've actually never seen the 5L ones over here. I wanted the 10L ones as I want to make sure I can do a complete oil change. Ok, I still can't do a full gear oil change (diffs, gearbox, T-case, swivels) as that's just so much oil and the chance that you've actually have to do that is practically zero.
As I want to keep the CofG low I want all the heavy stuff as low as possible. And centred in the middle of the vehicle. So that is where I've got the 80L watertank, the fridge and all the fluids. Except for the fuelcontainers which are (ok, going) behind the bullbar.
Not much will be going on the roofrack. I want this Landy to be awesome offroad even though it's fully loaded.




I camped in my Land Rover for almost 2 decades before making any changes beyond the propane and extra fuel tanks, then nearly a year with drawings tape measure and card board mockups between the time I purchased the Dormobile kit and the time I installed the interior. I took a task based approach. What do I need for sleeping, preparing a meal, cleaning up after a meal. That sort of thing. Anything that could be used for two or more tasks got the Teriann seal of approval. Single taskers got looked at very very closely and a lot of ideas didn't make it because it was a single tasker and not absolutely essential for that single task. When I got the interior installed I took the vehicle on a 3 month test camping trip to see how well things worked. Thankfully my preplanning worked out and all I've needed since then as been comfort refinements.

I've lived from my vehicle (a HJ60 LandCruiser) in Australia for a year in a very basic way. As the weather was awesome I loved it. It was very basic, I did have the platform to sleep on, but only a single burner stove, 1saucepan, 1frying pan, that sort of stuff.
I did the same for 2 months in South Africa but this was a '98 Disco with rooftent. But the rest was as basic as in the Cruiser.
So I've got a pretty good idea about what I actually need. And that's not much. I live in luxury with this one as I got the fridge, a proper cooker and the watertank with electric pump and filter.
I still live basic I think compared to your setup but I like it this way. I don't need much :)






I once ran across a guy in Arizona who was up from Texas who worked in aircraft fabrication. He made some interesting wing drop boxes using aircraft hardware.
The owner built an aluminum box and secured it to the underside of the wing above the tyre. The cut in the wing is slightly larger than the opening in the top of the box so the lid can rest on the upper lip of the box. He used a stainless steel piano hinge and flush mounting aircraft latches. He has a box on each front wing. One stores chains and the other is a tool box.

I would like something like that. It's just that over here you never seem to be able to find all those fancy catches and that sort of stuff. If I could actually find them I could make something like that.




Yep a fold out cot like bunk that is at roof level when the top is down.

Awesome, that looks nice. But I believe they're not that long, only 6ft or something? I'm 6'6" more or less, so that would be a bit too small.

[Snagger]

I like the TR3. My wife would be keen on a TR6 or a Stag. I might restore one for her when we have a house with a big enough workshop - I had to build the 109 in my front garden and am not that keen on spending a couple of years laying in puddles and filth again.

There seem to be two types of 10L jerrycan available over here. One is near identical to the standard 20l type, but is about 2/3 the height. The other is a type smaller in all three dimensions. The former fits my jerrycan lockers together with a standard 5l plastic oil bottle, while the latter would need custom mountings. I've not seen 5l cans, but most vehicle fluids are sold in 5l plastic bottles which are reasonably tough.

I think I may eventually go down the route of fitting an aluminium water tank between the lockers, underneath the forward tub floor, with filler and tap valves fitted on the left side of the vehicle between the front door and the left can locker. That would allow me to use the lockers purely for spares, lubricants and tools.

The wing top mounted tool box is very neat, and is reminiscent of the storage done on some military SIs, which had a locker in the front corners of the wings, with the radiused section of the wing top/front opening on a lateral hinge. UK MoD SIIs had tool boxes mounted on the top of the passenger footwell, where the SIII and Defender have their heater matrices. Mercedes G-Wagons have an optional water tank in the wing tops, and I know that someone in the UK was making up some prototype Defender wing top water tanks.

[TeriAnn]

First this is what a 5L can looks like:


http://www.britishpacific.com/BPSite/landroverparts/offrd_pictures/1.3jerry.jpg


I have 6 or 7 of them, 4 of which are surplus from the German army.


Second, the Dormobile top bunk is 6 feet long but there is 3 or 4 inches between the bunk and canvas at each end (over the aluminum roof area). You might fit but it would be very tight.





I think I may eventually go down the route of fitting an aluminium water tank between the lockers, underneath the forward tub floor, with filler and tap valves fitted on the left side of the vehicle between the front door and the left can locker.

I suggest you do a little more research prior to using aluminum water tanks. Aluminum is a very chemically active metal and you need to periodically sanitize built in water tanks. The most common water tank sanitizing agent is bleach with has chemically active chlorine. You may end up with an aluminum chloride solution (an acid) where you expected to have aluminum. Personally I never really liked the flavour of water that has been sitting in aluminum.

That's why I choose stainless steel. Its a lot more chemically inert than aluminum.

[Snagger]

Thanks for that tip!

I've just been measuring up to fit the ambulance anti-roll bar, and I'm running into problems because of the rear fuel tank (not fitted to ambulances). I might now need that void for the exhaust and fitting a TD5 Discovery anti-roll bar infront of the axle. This type is shorter and sits between the chassis rails, not extending underneath them, so would not foul any part of the chassis or the springs. It could also act as an anti-torque or anti-tramp bar, connected to brackets on the top of the axle via rose joints. It's amazing how complicated mods can get.

[Toy-Roverlander]

Thanks for that tip!

I've just been measuring up to fit the ambulance anti-roll bar, and I'm running into problems because of the rear fuel tank (not fitted to ambulances). I might now need that void for the exhaust and fitting a TD5 Discovery anti-roll bar infront of the axle. This type is shorter and sits between the chassis rails, not extending underneath them, so would not foul any part of the chassis or the springs. It could also act as an anti-torque or anti-tramp bar, connected to brackets on the top of the axle via rose joints. It's amazing how complicated mods can get.

I was about to say the same thing, well sort off. I knew aluminium wouldn't be a good idea, stainless steel is better.

I might have missed something, but why do you want to fit a rear anti-roll bar? Do you have parabolics fitted by any chance? That would increase bodyroll. I'm not really a suspension expert but doesn't it help to have twin shock absorbers? That way you don't need the anti-roll bar.

What engine have you got fitted? And what is the vehicle, I still haven't quite figured out whether it's a 110 or a 109" :coffee:

[Snagger]

Higher rated dampers or twin dampers are not the answer - they only help for brief roll resistance, not sustained turns and slopes. If you make the mistake of fitting excessive damping to counter roll, it'll just give a jarring ride while still allowing roll on sustained turns and slopes.

[Toy-Roverlander]

Higher rated dampers or twin dampers are not the answer - they only help for brief roll resistance, not sustained turns and slopes. If you make the mistake of fitting excessive damping to counter roll, it'll just give a jarring ride while still allowing roll on sustained turns and slopes.

That makes sense. Never really gave it much thought actually. Anti-roll bars are nice for on the road, my Disco1 has them front and rear, and even with the roofrack and RTT it corners really well with hardly any bodyroll. It just hasn't got much articulation anymore.
And as I want the best offroad performance I have accepted the bodyroll of my 109" (yes, even with multi-leaf springs it really leans into a corner, classic Range Rover style ;)) And I haven't even got anything on the roof...

[Snagger]

Well, I had the rear spring bushes replaced today (I don't have a press, and couldn't be bothered with jacking the vehicle up, so I took it to an LR specialist that owed me a favour). It turns out the springs are a bit tired, having sagged a little and become a bit soft, so that won't have helped the roll. RM want £355 for a full new set, which isn't bad. I fit these TI Console springs 12 years ago, so I got my moneys' worth out of them.

The good news is that we had a play around with the anti-roll bar while it was on the ramps. While the bar won't fit just in front of the bump stops because the diff will hit its centre on full compression of both springs, it does fit just behind the bump stops, clearing both the diff and the fuel tank. The arms sit far enough outboard of the dampers to avoid them, and this new position, unlike the last plan, doesn't even need me to alter the exhaust at all. I fit the special spring plates (like the front ones, but the bar's vertical link sits on the bushed spiggot instead of a damper). All I need to do is have some brackets made to allow the bar's D-bush clamps to bolt to the chassis.

Back on topic, a friend is going through a very messy divorce. He has two young kids, but has problems taking them out because his D90 has only two seats. Since I have only twice used my third row folding seats, I have given them to him to fit to his 90. The space occupied by them is now dedicated to those galvanised 330x700mm lidded boxes. They'll be powder coated and fitted with over-centre catches before being bolted to the wheel arch tops. Their front edges are dead flush with the side of the wheel arches, and they extend all the way back to about 5mm off the side panel (so any large items that dent the back of the box won't dent the vehicle side). The lids are level with the ledge on the inside of the hard top side panel, a little above the galvanised tub capping.

[nickt]

Darin started a related thread over at the HUBB (http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/4wd-overland-tech/good-designs-inside-your-vehicle-29909). Some shots of my 110 storage system there.

Nick.

[Snagger]

An update, now I have removed the unused rear-most fold-up seatd and fitted the custom storage boxes (I just need to fit the catches to the left box, which should arrive tomorrow after the supplier only sent me one pair instead of the two pairs ordered and invoiced - it'll take five minutes since I've pre-drilled the rivet holes).

I had the boxes, made of galvanised steel sheet, powder coated the same colour (9016) as the Mobile Storage Systems box on the back door, which is the closest powder coat standard colour match to the LR grey vinyl. I'll be fitting D-ring lashing points to the tops of the lids so that I can tie down hold-alls or camp chairs to the lids.

[Toy-Roverlander]

That looks very neat! Well done!

I like how you stowed your High-lift too, good spot. Only when it gets muddy I would rather have it stowed outside. But that has its disadvantages too..

[86cj]

Great thread and thanks for putting it here. I have a Jeep and storage ideas are universal.............

Is it just me or does TeriAnn seem like someone that would be really cool to sit around a campfire with....

[Snagger]

I like how you stowed your High-lift too, good spot. Only when it gets muddy I would rather have it stowed outside. But that has its disadvantages too..The problem with external storage is rusting (and theft). Since the vehicle is mostly used for commuting to work, I also didn't want an ugly jack adorning the vehicle.

You can't really see them in that photo, but small Quickfists hold the wheel brace and bottle jack below the farm jack's upright. The Anderson socket is for jump starting, with the twin batteries in the rear tool locker underneath the new chest (not fitted on Defenders, but standard for 109s). The bottle jack is secured with a large Quickfist to the black upright for the left rear seat, next to the farm jack's main workings and foot, and in front of the T-Max tyre inflator (in the black bag). The space under the right seat allows perfectly for the plastic Stanley tool box - it was a pure chance, but it fits with about 20mm lateral spacing and less than 5mm vertical, sticking out aft only about 25mm when the front end is flush with the seat support; it was an incredible piece of luck.

[RgrBox]

Excellent job there Snagger.. I'm in the process of setting mine up on a simular plan. But I have to do it myself and with out much money. I though about just doing most out of wood. And I only plan to do this in the rear of the 110. Due to my truck also having to hump around a family of four. But I like your layout. I saw where a German company makes simular side storage boxes for Defenders, but they cost toooo much. Over 400 euros each. I though i could make they myself out of wood. Ans even cover them in Aluminum. Anyway, I like what you've done with yours.. those tow side sotrage boxes are perfect. and very prof. done. You have a contact on who you had make those for you?

Thanks for showing, and th egreat ideas.

RB

[Snagger]

The guy that made them was on www.landrovernet.co.uk , using the name "Se7enup". He's taking orders for a final batch, so have a look on the Defender, Series LR or General Discusion sub-forums on there. I hope you catch him in time!

The only criticism I'd make of these boxes, especially for their price, is that he wasn't able to make a front opening version that would allow other items to be left on top of them. However, they're very light, galvanised and cheap, and he makes them to custom lengths at no extra cost.