BKCowGod's 1980 Cherokee Chief Build Thread

[BKCowGod]

Vehicle: 1980 Jeep Cherokee Chief

Goal: To have a safe, comfortable, self-contained, relatively nondescript truck for up to a month of vehicle-based exploration at a time.

Budget: The total budget is $5000. Including ALL gear. Since I traded for this truck, I have assigned it a value of $1,500 (the price I paid for my original truck). It already has the wheels and tires, lift, roof rack, and a recently rebuilt motor… So the below has to be done for under $3,500. This means I will be learning how to paint and doing all of the mechanical work myself. I am going to have to farm out the welding work, but I may be able to barter for some of it. My metal guy is really cool.

Why: There is an assumption on the Internet and elsewhere that overland travel is an expensive hobby. My goal is to prove that it is not just possible, but quite easy, to enter this hobby with minimal expense. Of course it requires more work and potential lost blood, but this also gives you a more intimate relationship with the vehicle. This in turn means that when you do break down 500 miles from humanity, you are more likely to know not only what happened, but why it happened and how to make it stop.

The Vehicle: I chose a fullsize Jeep for a number of reasons. My initial options were Land Rovers, Range Rovers, Land Cruisers, Troopers, and modern(er) Jeeps. All of these are excellent vehicles with their own strengths and weaknesses, but all also fall short in places I consider very important. The Cherokee Chief is a 110” wheelbase fullsize truck that has roughly the same footprint as a Range Rover SWB. It is a bit wider, but should still fit in all but the tightest trails. It is a classic, body-on-frame, solid axle, leaf sprung, pushrod V8 design. While many might see these as a liability, I see a bulletproof design that is eminently field-repairable, with ease of modification. The Dana 44 front axle gives me a turning radius tighter than most modern cars, and the stock ground clearance/articulation mean that minor modifications are all that are needed to create a truly formidable offroad machine. Even with all this, the Cherokee shares almost all of its components (and development dollars) with the uber-expensive Grand Wagoneer, so it has a relatively supple on-road ride, and the entire interior from the luxo-wag can be dropped right in. Because it is a 2-door, rear seat removal doesn’t look stupid.

As of 10/26/09...
$2,171 spent. $2,829 remaining.

Most recent photo:
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17619-1/IMG_2101.JPG

What it looked like when I bought it:
http://www.kuhgott.com/temp/cherokee/IMG_1317.jpg

Completed Projects/Modifications:
* Tracked down and defeated all vacuum leaks
* Installed upgraded wiring harness
* High amperage alternator
* Engine rebuild: Bored out, RV cammed
* High capacity radiator
* 3" suspension lift
* 1" body lift
* Edelbrock Shocks
* 33" mud terrain tires on steel wheels
* Tad-Rack roof rack with hi-lift & shovel mounts
* Headliner & Steering wheel from '88 Grand Wagoneer
* Custom rear carpet installed (was bare metal)
* Upgraded ignition system to Ford TFI, MSD coil, Ford Motorsports wires
* Custom front bumper
* Replaced stereo & broken window with unbreakable lexan
* Porsche 924 seats
* SunPro tach installed

Upcoming Projects: (the below will eventually be expanded as work progresses)

[BKCowGod]

Restoration: I need to be able to park the truck in front of exclusive restaurants and not get towed as an abandoned vehicle, but also not be a magnet for thieves or n’er-do-wells. Because of this, I have chosen to maintain the low-key brown color. Very little will be visible from outside. Trained eyes will notice the upgraded lighting and bumpers and the larger tires, but everything else will appear to be a stock older vehicle. Most of the below restoration projects are designed to get the truck back up to daily driver status.
• Resprayed body (original color) - $500 total. Body will be brown with black highlights and black on the fender flares.
• Fixed door locks, seals, electrical - $25. Basic stuff here.
:) Vacuum leaks, wiring harness, etc - $Free. Harness and tubing came with truck.
• Repair cruise control & gauges - $30. Sunpro mechanical gauge cluster and tach.

[BKCowGod]

Range & Ability: Here is where most of the money will be spent. Mileage is around 14-16 on-road and can get as low as 10 off-road. The goal is to have 500mi range, so 45 gallons should give me a comfortable buffer. The dual batteries will require an upgraded alternator (just in case). It already has 4” of extra suspension, and the 3” body lift will be removed in favor of a 1” lift. This will give me good clearance for the 33” tires without being too tall. I have chosen to go with all terrains because much of my driving will be on the road. If I don’t go retread, I will try for used BFG A/T’s. If I can get a good deal on an LSD, I will go for it, otherwise I will end up with an Aussie Locker for the AMC 20 rear end. This will give me excellent offroad performance, but I am worried about compromising my snow traction. Overdrive will be a godsend both for my engine and my ears on the freeway, but I’m not sure if it will be in the budget. All metal stuff will be performed by Steel Worx of Santa Clara, CA.
:) High capacity alternator
:) Ford TFI & MSD 6A Ignition
:) 3” suspension lift & 1” body lift
:) 33” All-Terrain tires on steel rims
• Locking rear differential.
• Onboard air compressor
• Sliders and skid plates
:) Front bumper: 2x driving lights, CB antenna
• Rear bumper: 2x backup/flood lights, aux LED brake lights
:) Roof rack with recovery equipment (rope, gloves, etc), hi-lift, jerry cans, solar

[BKCowGod]

Communications & Multimedia
:) CB radio mounted in glovebox for emergency/convoy communications
:) MP3/CD stereo with iPod control (iPod in glove box)
:) On-Road GPS on suction mount
• UMPC with wireless internet and GPS for offroad navigation.
:) Local map library

[BKCowGod]

Passenger Comfort & Security
:) Retrofit seats from 1983 Porsche 924
:) Sound and heat insulation throughout
• Invisible UV tint on all windows, very mild privacy tint on back windows.
:) Rollable futon mattress
:) Down-filled flannel sleeping bag and additional down comforter
• Secure/hidden storage for 2 rifles & ammo
:) Storage for white gas, water, stove, food, etc. for 2 people x 14 days.

[preacherman]

FSJ'S UNITE!!!!!!!

I am glad you are doing this build. So far I am having fun with my build and I think these trucks are a very under appreciated platform. My hope is that we can show everyone just how good these trucks can be.

I will be watching and possibly steeling ideas:sombrero:

[ExpoMike]

Both of your FSJ are totally getting me "jonesing" for one. I love the body styling, very classic offroad look. With today's modern drivetrains, I would totally be looking to swap over a EFI, OD tranny setup, to get better performance and mileage.

My problem, I need another project like I need a hole in the head. Good luck on your builds!

[Root Moose]

Both of your FSJ are totally getting me "jonesing" for one. I love the body styling, very classic offroad look. With today's modern drivetrains, I would totally be looking to swap over a EFI, OD tranny setup, to get better performance and mileage.

My problem, I need another project like I need a hole in the head. Good luck on your builds!

LOL

I'm in the exact same boat as you! Love them and need another project like the proverbial hole in the head.

I've been reading up on the MPG issue over at ifsja.org.

Maybe you guys know... which years had a lockup torque converter on the 727? Any?

As far as highway cruise is concerned I don't know why a 727 with TCC can't be as efficient as a 700R4 swap. It's all gear ratio at that point. Lower axle gears and 1:1 locked drive - if off-road low range is affected do a 203/205 or 241OR t-case.

I read that the 258 based waggies can get into the low 20s for MPG. That's amazing in my mind, especially considering using a carb and other old fashioned emission controls.

[toddz69]

Range & Ability:

• Vented front disc brakes


You already have those! :) Are you referring to cross-drilled or slotted?

Todd Z.

[BKCowGod]

Todd -

thanks, I meant to put slotted. This writeup happened because I forgot to bring my novel to work and I needed something to fill the time.

Others - I have yet to decide for certain re: fuel injection and tranny swap. I used to hate my mpg ratings until I realized pretty much every truck on this board is getting less than 20, and all the trucks that would work for me were lucky to get 15. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a well-tuned carb that 2min of tenderness in the morning before you drive off won't fix.

Preacher - go to the tech section of ifsja and read about the Ford ignition swap. I know you just bought all the parts, but not sure if you installed or not - maybe there's still time to swap.

[ntsqd]

I'm pretty sure that FSJ owners would crucify me, but had my own Cherokee Chief not been a rust bucket I would have eventually swapped in a TBI or TPI SBC with a 700R4 transmission. Mine had Q-TRac (those all did?) so there would be some issues with spline count at the transfercase. Not sure what I would have done there. Having done machine shop type work on the AMC V8's I'm not impressed with their design and doing a simple (read: TBI) EFI swap onto one would result in non off the shelf parts. I'd rather transplant an Engineered package with off the shelf support and move on to the next project.

Mine had the fuel tanks you're looking for (54 gallons total), but I do not know who made either tank nor do I know the where-abouts of the vehicle. They were a production item from their appearance.

Fill me in on the Dura-Spark II swap. I have done many on IH engines, which require significant work. Don't AMC V8's have the Ford ignition system in them OE? If that is the case the swap is simple.

Hi TZ!

EDIT: BTW, the Ford D-S II info here: http://www.ifsja.org/tech/motors/chrysler.html is incorrect. They do not ground through the module case. They only ground through the black ground wire in the distributor connector. Some OE Ford systems wire run-mode ign power to the red module wire and start-mode power to the white module wire. If it will not stop cranking you have those reversed. :)

[Root Moose]

Yeah, if you are happy with the drivetrain essentials as they stand now I certainly wouldn't change anything. It's something I'd think about at rebuild time - if you are changing things and going to spend money anyway logic.

[BKCowGod]

ntsqd - QT (fulltime) was an option, but I have a standard part time transfer case (it's either a NP208 or 209, I always forget)

here's the link for the ignition swap I am doing http://www.ifsja.org/tech/electrical/ignitionupgrade.html

[2drx4]

ntsqd - QT (fulltime) was an option, but I have a standard part time transfer case (it's either a NP208 or 209, I always forget)



You've got a 208. You might want a SYE for it. It wouldn't be needed, but if you trash your rear driveshaft you can at least drive without dumping all the ATF out of the tcase.


Oh, cool build, I always liked the cherokee chiefs more than the waggys. I'm interested to see how your budget pans out.

[ntsqd]

ntsqd - QT (fulltime) was an option, but I have a standard part time transfer case (it's either a NP208 or 209, I always forget)

here's the link for the ignition swap I am doing http://www.ifsja.org/tech/electrical/ignitionupgrade.html
Let me state up front that both TZ & I bleed Ford Blue. :)

There are a couple things right and wrong, IMO, with the article.
The first thing is to just start out using that TFI coil. It is worth it. Get the bracket with the coil. I used a junkyard sourced coil (& module) on my '67 Ranchero for nearly 10 years prior to my selling the car.
The second thing is that in my very first D-S II conversion (about 1987 & on a 300ci 6 in a '66 Econoline Van) I ran the module off the stock ign supply wire, so it ran just fine on ~9 volts, not the 12 volts that the author claims is critical. I would wire to 12 volts, but don't sweat it.
If you can by any means avoid cutting the mag trigger wires, do so. The maximum voltage generated by that trigger coil is ~1 volt, so any resistance in the wires is a problem. Unlike the article's author I do not solder wires except in rare instances. It is too easy to cause yourself more problems than you thought that you fixed by soldering.

On that '67 Ranchero of mine I tried an MSD 6 in place of the stock module. I even went to the trouble of making up a wiring harness that let me easily swap them back and forth (not easy, there's a wire that has to change it's connection location). This was with a medium compression ratio 302 ci with a mild cam. Other than cold start idling (no choke) there was no detectable difference in the way the car ran. I wouldn't bother. One of the IH conversions that I made in 1990 used a JY sourced module for the 4 years that it drove around here, and for all that I know it may still be using it in Alaska. The OE modules, not those in the parts stores, are really that good.

So, JY shopping list:

D-S II Distributor to fit your engine
Large Cap Adapter
OE Module with Blue plastic wire strain relief
Wiring from distributor to module (within the blue strain relief modules any will work - shop for the one that closest matches your length needs)
Plug off donor car wire loom for ignition power (cut as long as possible)
TFI coil & bracket
TFI plug (note that the wire loom from the dist. to the module has a green wire that goes to the coil negative, if the TFI plug donor is the same as the dist. to module loom donor don't cut this wire)

While you're in the JY plug in everything that plugs together to check that you have all compatible parts. The plug shapes and key locations change with the different color strain reliefs, and most JY's won't take back wrong electrical parts.

A note on spark plug cables; in my employment we work with a tiny engine on a dyno. At one time we were experimenting with ignition systems and got to the point where RFI was causing problems with our data acquisition system. Nothing off the shelf at the local NAPA worked at all. Going to the MSD 8mm wires helped, but did not cure the problem. As an act of desperation we tried the Magnecor (http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm) wires and those cured the problem. I've never had any trouble with MSD's on a car, only on that engine system on the dyno. So I would encourage that the spark plug cables be one of those two options.

[jim65wagon]

This is a truly awesome build. Love the Chief as much as I did the Truck! This is (and so was the truck) one of those machines that I'd be severely tempted to buy if given half a chance!

Love the subtle and sedate style it's got going on. MMMM...brown, no one should look twice at it (unless they're a car guy type).

A well tuned carb is quite efficient, and they can work very well, especially if you take the time to freshen them up. Rebuilt a few Holleys and Q-jets way back, ya know!

BTW, paint those massive weights to match your rims! That's gotta be a stylin' issue when your at those high falutin restaurants!

[Backwoods Rambler]

For anyone jones'n this one sounds nice

http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/1115291287.html

Another with a youtube video showing that it runs and sounds good.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/1071874361.html

Disclaimer: not related to either seller in any way, just found it searchin' around.

[Haggis]

This is going to be a cool rig, so much so that I'll even forgive you for selling the truck:elkgrin:.

[BKCowGod]

Mark - good to know I'm finally turning you...

Others - this will be a slow build, because luxury retail is crap these days. If you want to speed up my build, buy suits from me! I will give you a good deal. :victory:

[preacherman]

Todd -


Preacher - go to the tech section of ifsja and read about the Ford ignition swap. I know you just bought all the parts, but not sure if you installed or not - maybe there's still time to swap.

Doing it as we speak. I will post pics in a few day. It was super easy to get parts for.

[preacherman]

Let me state up front that both TZ & I bleed Ford Blue. :)

There are a couple things right and wrong, IMO, with the article.
The first thing is to just start out using that TFI coil. It is worth it. Get the bracket with the coil. I used a junkyard sourced coil (& module) on my '67 Ranchero for nearly 10 years prior to my selling the car.
The second thing is that in my very first D-S II conversion (about 1987 & on a 300ci 6 in a '66 Econoline Van) I ran the module off the stock ign supply wire, so it ran just fine on ~9 volts, not the 12 volts that the author claims is critical. I would wire to 12 volts, but don't sweat it.
If you can by any means avoid cutting the mag trigger wires, do so. The maximum voltage generated by that trigger coil is ~1 volt, so any resistance in the wires is a problem. Unlike the article's author I do not solder wires except in rare instances. It is too easy to cause yourself more problems than you thought that you fixed by soldering.

On that '67 Ranchero of mine I tried an MSD 6 in place of the stock module. I even went to the trouble of making up a wiring harness that let me easily swap them back and forth (not easy, there's a wire that has to change it's connection location). This was with a medium compression ratio 302 ci with a mild cam. Other than cold start idling (no choke) there was no detectable difference in the way the car ran. I wouldn't bother. One of the IH conversions that I made in 1990 used a JY sourced module for the 4 years that it drove around here, and for all that I know it may still be using it in Alaska. The OE modules, not those in the parts stores, are really that good.

So, JY shopping list:

D-S II Distributor to fit your engine
Large Cap Adapter
OE Module with Blue plastic wire strain relief
Wiring from distributor to module (within the blue strain relief modules any will work - shop for the one that closest matches your length needs)
Plug off donor car wire loom for ignition power (cut as long as possible)
TFI coil & bracket
TFI plug (note that the wire loom from the dist. to the module has a green wire that goes to the coil negative, if the TFI plug donor is the same as the dist. to module loom donor don't cut this wire)

While you're in the JY plug in everything that plugs together to check that you have all compatible parts. The plug shapes and key locations change with the different color strain reliefs, and most JY's won't take back wrong electrical parts.



I am now confused...I am doing this upgrade as we speak on my 91 waggy. I was just going to wire the new connector just like my old connector. They are both a two wire, one positive, one neg. Are you saying I should not do that???

[ntsqd]

Which connector? I have no knowledge of Jeep wiring, only Ford Dura-Spark II wiring. It would be nice if the link supplied a wiring diagram.
http://nnyoffroad.com/wiki/images/b/b7/Duraspark2-diagram.gif
While the diagram shows a ballast resistor used with the coil, I have run without one for years when using the TFI coil and not had any problem.

The two wire connector to the Ford D-S II ignition module is not a power wire and a ground wire. One is "Start mode power" and the other is "Run mode power". I've never been able to find info on the difference between them. The engine will run on either, but I suspect that start mode power is not ideal to run on long term. Most starter solenoids have an 'S' terminal on them. Connect the white wire (AT the module!) to this terminal. Note that in most Ford looms that the white and red wires are switched in the connector. That is that the plug's red wire is connected to the module's white wire, and vice versa. I don't know why, just a Ford idiosyncrasy. The module wire colors are those to go by.

Once in a great while a system will pop up that won't stop cranking when you release the key. The culprit is usually this white wire.

[preacherman]

Oh thanks, that helps. I got confused for a minute but I think I was making it harder than it should be.

[BKCowGod]

Alrighty, time for a bit of an update-y thingie...

Today was rack installation day. The rack the truck came with is a Tad Rack (http://home.mchsi.com/~ttsfabworks/rack.htm) by TT's Fabworks. This particular rack ties into the rails so as to spread out the load better. I usually try to keep as much stuff secured from the elements as possible, so the northern storage is more for grungy or really bulky stuff (read: recovery gear):
* Hi-Lift jack
* 2 Jerry Cans
* Sand Ladders (eventually)
* Tow Rope, some spare parts, tools, spout for jerries, etc.
* Spare Tire

A while back I had Steel Worx tack on some Hi-Lift mounts that are apparently designed for the front bumpers of Wranglers.
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17332-1/DSCF2849.JPG

Today I cleaned and primered the rack with a rust-inhibiting primer and then sprayed on a coat of semi-gloss Krylon. I like this stuff because it is a lot cheaper than powdercoating and I can always touch it up whenever I want.

Then I drilled a few holes and securely mounted a surplus ammo can (from Sportsmans Guide) to store recovery accessories.
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17326-1/DSCF2847.JPG

The jerry cans (also from SPG) are in their permanent position, but not yet permanently mounted. I will be making a bracket for them, but ran out of light and energy today.
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17323-1/DSCF2851.JPG

My initial impression of this setup is that, while there is more wind noise and a bit more resistance, once I finish with sound deadening it will be well within tolerable levels.

Today's total cost: $20 for paint, nuts, bolts, some angle iron, and a couple of drill bits.

[BKCowGod]

While armed with my Krylon, I also decided to do some touchup to the wheels and rockers. I think it really cleaned things up.

Before:
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/16416-2/DSCF2701.JPG

After:
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17320-1/DSCF2834.JPG


Before:
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/16411-2/DSCF2698.JPG

After:
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17308-1/DSCF2842.JPG

[XXXpedition]

Then I drilled a few holes and securely mounted a surplus ammo can
don't tell me you drilled holes in the spare cans :elkgrin:

but seriously - i love the concept and agree fully that traveling and exploring don't have to be expensive!
thanks for sharing
sven

[jeepmedic46]

Well done:smiley_drive:

[BKCowGod]

don't tell me you drilled holes in the spare cans :elkgrin:

but seriously - i love the concept and agree fully that traveling and exploring don't have to be expensive!
thanks for sharing
sven

THAT'S why they're leaking!!!!! :Wow1:

No, eventually the jerries will have an L bracket in front of them and some form of strappage going over them. Just haven't figured out exactly how I want to do it since I want to keep everything as modular and flexible as possible.

[BlueBomber]

have you thought of putting a piece of plastic infront of the rack to cut wind noise...ya know, like the yuppie ski racks

lemmie see if i can find a pic...

ok, no pic. but they are called "wind fairings". might cut some of the noise.

[BKCowGod]

It has a flowmaster 40 series and mud terrain whine. Wind noise isn't a huuuge issue. Though my dad had the plastic thing on his Benz and it really did make a difference.

[BlueBomber]

my flowmaster is only loud at idle (i have a ford truck with a 240c.i. straight six) is yours always loud?

[BKCowGod]

I don't know. I also have an exhaust manifold gasket issue (the issue being that I don't have an exhaust manifold gasket) so I'm not really sure what the truck ACTUALLY sounds like.

Anything's quieter than the dual glasspacks in the old J2000.

[preacherman]

Looking good. I like the rack. I heard he was not building them anymore so it's cool you have one.

[BKCowGod]

Another weekend, another few oz of blood on the ground...

Today was quite productive. Did the TFI upgrade and replaced the blown (for the 2nd time) passenger exhaust manifold gasket with one from Remflex. So much better. Exhaust gasket is pretty straightforward, but I do have a few comments regarding TFI.

Kragen tried to charge me $45 for a cheap coil and $22 for a dizzy cap adapter. I got both, along with a mounting bracket and coil wire, Ford OE, from Pick-N-Pull for much cheaper.

Full parts list:
From 1980 Jeep Cherokee with 360
* Champion RN14YC spark plugs, gapped to .044 - $13.50

From 1989 Ford F250 4x4 with 460
* General Cable silicon ignition wire set (Kragen 6201)- $19
* Niehoff Pro Power distributor cap (Kragen FF79CS) - $11.99
* OEM Coil (pick-n-pull) - $7.00
* OEM Dizzy Cap Adapter (pick-n-pull) - $4.00

From 1984 Ford F250 4x4 with 460
* BWD NASCAR Select distributor rotor (Kragen D166) - $6.99

This stuff really is plug-and-play. Just make sure to keep track of which wire goes where. I already notice a difference in starting and idling, and it rolls onto throttle very smoothly now.

Total cost for today: $65 (including Pick-N-Pull entry fee)

[pint]

WOW! Another great low buck build! Trying to decide between something like this, a Grand Wagoneer (aka Preacherman) and a Land Cruiser FJ60/62? Keep up the fantastic work!

[BKCowGod]

Pint - this is a Grand Wag, just missing a couple of doors and a few inches off the frame.

[olympiccop2002]

A guy at work has one of these. I think they are pretty cool. Keep the pictures coming! I love the idea of building it on the cheap! :sombrero:

[BKCowGod]

Finally got some more time, and I am feeling VERY productive.

SUSPENSION
I removed the 3" body lift and replaced it with 1". Just enough that I could still stuff 33's, but much easier to maneuver and quite a bit better looking. Replaced the shocks with Edelbrock IAS units, body lift is from BJ's, had to remove a few extensions installed by the PO to account for the 3" lift. In the process I cracked the front bumper in half (don't ask), so...

BUMPER
Took a piece of 4"x4" square tubing to Steel Werx and had them slap together some brackets. Coming soon: CB antenna, 2x driving lights.

UNDERHOOD
Melted the notorious Motorcraft ignition controller, so I went on eBay and picked up an MSD 6AL. Felt bad with my cheezy plug wires so I went to Summit Racing and got Ford Motorsports 9mm plug wires and a high performance TFI coil. When I get a moment, I think I'm gonna regap my plugs out to .5 (at .44 right now) but I can already really notice the difference with these changes. Highly recommended.

Parts
Steel & Fabrication - $50
MSD 6AL ignition - $100
Ford Motorsports wires - $44
Summit TFI Coil - $29
1" body lift - $45
4x Edelbrock IAS Shocks @ $29/ea - $116
TOTAL: $384

Shown here is the MSD in its temporary resting place, GIANT plug wires, rat's nest of wiring, the invincible Optima battery, and about 150lbs of early 80's smog equipment:
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17400-1/IMG_2078.JPG

I highly recommend these shocks. Edelbrock regularly sells them for $29/ea shipped. Also in this picture is the giant round pumpkin that they so creativelly named the AMC20 and the hanger for the nicely tucked up Flowmaster 40 series.
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17397-1/IMG_2072.JPG

I really do enjoy the new stance, and it is a lot easier to get in. The bumper also makes a great step for under hood work.
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17394-1/IMG_2074.JPG

[Root Moose]

I like it lower too. Looks great!

[Cabrito]

Looking good!

[Bugetexpedition]

you should throw some skateboard tape on the top of that bumper for when you are working under the hood and the bumper is wet.

[BKCowGod]

you should throw some skateboard tape on the top of that bumper for when you are working under the hood and the bumper is wet.

don't worry - it's in the works... I just wanted to wait until I'd dropped in the lights and antenna.

[BKCowGod]

Wow - been a while. Panicked rapid preparation for my brother's bachelor party camping trip meant loosening the purse strings a bit. Last month saw the addition of:

* Functioning low range finally (it was free, just had to fab up a proper-length shift linkage to take into account the new smaller body lift).

* Upgraded electrical accessories: GPS now has a dedicated power port under the dash so no wires snake, Music now pushes through an iPod to a Clarion DXZ385USB stereo to four Kenwood speakers that will be switched out to externally amplified elemental designs components eventually. Total cost ($100 deck off eBay, $10 wiring and mounting stuff) - $110
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/images/ebay/dxz385usb.jpg

* New futon mattress (Gold Bond, brand new in plastic) found on Craigs for $40
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17507-1/DSCF2996.JPG

* Completed roof rack mount for German army surplus shovel: Shovel was $14, two pieces of PVC pipe and hose clamps were $8. Drilled a hole through end of shovel and pipe, stuck a bolt through with a wingnut and shovel is held firmly in place.
http://www.kuhgott.com/temp/DSCF2892.JPG

I think that's about it. This was technically the shakedown run for the Jeep, and it performed admirably. My ignition key switch thingie finally bit the dust, but I have been expecting this for some time. I also vapor locked on a hill and had to deal with that, but that's a Motorcraft carb thing. I may consider a fuel injection swap in the future, but for now it's not a huge issue.

[BKCowGod]

Oh yeah - I also tossed my old driving lights and Firestik on the front bumper, and started the restoration of the evil rear window of DOOM.

http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17525-1/DSCF2969.JPG

[Root Moose]

...started the restoration of the evil rear window of doom.

lol!

[ntsqd]

My '79 Suburban had one of those. We gutted it's interlock switches on the side of the Embarcadero in Ensenada so that the bloody thing would work at all.

[BKCowGod]

It's fascinating. The motor is perfect. I just replaced the lower channel (the metal piece on which the window mounts) and it's the little clips that hold the channel to the mechanism that keep popping off and letting the window fall. The design of this thing relies on every gasket and felt piece being perfect, because they are all stressed parts of the system!

[ccarley]

Nice Cherokee!

The back window is a pain on my '87 Grand Wag too, I hard wired it to the dash switch since the switch in the tailgate "fell apart" and was trying to make the window go up all the time. I think the brushes in my motor might be going out, it tends to stop at the same place all the time now sadly. A little shove & it continues moving though.

[BKCowGod]

So... I finally get the rear window fixed and then I roll down the driver's window and the same DAMN problem... Aaaaargh!

Btw - it's kinda hard to remove a door panel when the door is closed.

[BKCowGod]

Hey folks, I'm not actually dead! It's been a crazy few months with a job change and some other stuff. I've still been plugging away at the Jeep, though. Got all the windows to roll in both directions reliably (total cost: $5), got the new ignition switch in so I don't have to hotwire it every morning ($20). But the big news is in the wonderful world of seating! With a little bit of steel and a few drilled holes ($5 for bolts and nuts), I am now the proud owner of a Jeep/Porsche hybrid. The seats are from an old 924, had them sitting in my office for about a year now. Soooo comfortable! So that's it for this gobble day... Next on the list is to make my windshield wipers once again contribute to society!

http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17610-1/IMG_2107.JPG
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17607-1/IMG_2106.JPG
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17604-1/IMG_2105.JPG

[xr8dxj]

Wow... it reminds me of my first vehicle, a '79 Cherokee Chief. I often curse the day I got rid of it! I'm staying tuned and will live my FSJ fantasies through your build!
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l114/longtab/cherokeechief.jpg

[BKCowGod]

Wow... it reminds me of my first vehicle, a '79 Cherokee Chief. I often curse the day I got rid of it! I'm staying tuned and will live my FSJ fantasies through your build!


Thanks - I love this truck more and more as I make it my own...

[Scenic WonderRunner]

So how is this Beast doing? I love it!

We need some updated pics of fun times!:costumed-smiley-007




.

[BKCowGod]

So how is this Beast doing? I love it!

We need some updated pics of fun times!:costumed-smiley-007




.

Beast has been sitting lately, but it is going to be getting some love soon I promise!

[Average Dave]

New shovel mount I built. I know they are gorilla welds but it works.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/IMG_0191.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/IMG_0192.jpg

[BKCowGod]

New shovel mount I built. I know they are gorilla welds but it works.

It's ALIVE!!!!

I like the new mount - much cleaner than what I had on there!

[AzPhil]

Keep going, you are renewing my faith.

[Average Dave]

Ill post pics of stuff as I do them and or as I remember to take pics. Here is one of some tow hooks I added might not be the best set up but the are pretty solid and pulled the jeep across my driveway in park and with the break on. Be gentle if you hate them.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/20b22103.jpg

[Average Dave]

guess my problem is I never take before pictures. but here is the after of polishing the gauge lenses and glueing them back in place.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/cce29f3d.jpg

[Lewybrewing]

Looks great. I always 2nd guess my choice of an XJ when I see the old Full Size Jeeps

[Harmgrissom]

so um... did this get sold or something. Totally confused in the last half dozen posts. lol. Its a great looking build and a great idea to boot i.e. a budget build showcasing the potential in spite of expense ( or lack thereof )

[Average Dave]

Yeah about a year ago. I decided after doing some work on it that I might as well continue the thread.

[Average Dave]

Then
http://www.kuhgott.com/gallery/d/17400-1/IMG_2078.JPG

Now

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/fde5fece.jpg

Did some wire rerouting and mounted the msd.

[BKCowGod]

Ah... much better! That wiring was quite the rat's nest.



Now

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/fde5fece.jpg

Did some wire rerouting and mounted the msd.

[Harmgrissom]

Cool - thanks for clarifying. Loving this build - inspires me to go check out available wagons & Wagoneers locally.

If I can put in a "request" if you don't mind - I'd love to see pics/video of it on the trail for comparisons w modern rigs. :shakin:

[BKCowGod]

A few pix can be found at my site, kuhgott.com
Check out "Stanislaus Nat'l Forest" thru "More Jeep Stuff" - the orange J2000 is the same basic 4x4 and there are a few shots throughout.


Cool - thanks for clarifying. Loving this build - inspires me to go check out available wagons & Wagoneers locally.

If I can put in a "request" if you don't mind - I'd love to see pics/video of it on the trail for comparisons w modern rigs. :shakin:

[Average Dave]

I've only got a couple pics of it posed on rocks and what not. No video because I cant find my camera so everything is takin on my cell.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/IMG_0215.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/IMG_0214.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/IMG_0216.jpg

[Average Dave]

Now that the weather is getting warmer I realized that the heater in the jeep was constantly pushing hot air into the cab. Seeing as it gets 100 plus out here I decided there was NO WAY I was gonna let there be any unnecessary heat come in. So today started with me taking the A/C and heater boxes out of the jeep to find out what the heck was going on.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/f975b3b5.jpg
thats pretty much what it looked like a hollow dash. I will say that this was way easier then any modern car I have done dash work on. after I pulled it all out I traced it down to stinking heater flaps which I couldn't really photograph because they are inside the heater box after a little tweaking I got them back into working order and put the whole thing back together but not until after zip tying any loose wires I could get my hands on.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/9221cd36.jpg

[Average Dave]

Found the source of all my exhaust noise frustration.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/aeff55ef.jpg
So I packed up my tools and headed down to Good ol' Pick and Pull for their half price weekend. After getting there and the guy behind the counter telling me that they didnt have what I was looking for I went onto their lot and found two FSJs within 30 feet of each other both with the manifold I was looking for.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/a0814293.jpg
Side by side of the old and new old manifold.
While I was there I noticed they had some stock mirrors, they turned out to be power but I decided to give them a go. I got them home and mounted them up.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/48dfb554.jpg
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/b46f36c9.jpg
I like an idiot didn't check if the mirror switch actually worked so now my smokin' deal is gonna cost me more then I had intended trying to figure that problem out but they look pretty nice
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/68a0626c.jpg

[Tejasol]

After driving a Waggy for five or so years, I will tell you that those little side mirrors are one of the few things I truly dislike about it. They are really inadequate. Eventually they will be replaced.

Nice thread. I am shopping for ideas for mine. I have the interior removed right now and am trying to decide how I am going to put it together. It's hard to choose a configuration and stick with it.

[Average Dave]

They are quite a bit smaller then the ones it had before so it was quite possible that I'll end up hating them I was just looking for a little cleaner look. If I do end up hating them I kept the old mirrors around so I'll just weld up the holes for these mirrors and put those back on.

[blackjack12982]

Wow, that's an outstanding looking FSJ! Everytime I see a nice FSJ, my mind goes crazy with ideas thinking that I need another...

[Average Dave]

Well I realized recently that I have been working on the jeep waaaay more then actually driving it. So I jumped in and picked up my nephew for a day of fun at the 4x4 park near our houses. As luck would have it the park was closed for an event the next day. So we ended up out on an old dirt road me and my buddies used to four wheel on when I was younger. My nephew who was underwhelmed by the idea of driving on anything that was not a paved road actually seemed to enjoy it even though he was trying to hide it. I had so much fun that I took my girlfriend out there the next day. I didn't think to get pictures of any of the good obstacles or the creek crossing because I was to busy enjoying driving on them but here are some photos.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/85b5d39c.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/fc2b75bf.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/Average_Dave/the%20jeep%20album/f8329101.jpg