Desertdude's M101 trailer grows up

[Desertdude]

I think I might only use this trailer on a few occasions Jim Brantley's Surf N Turf is comming up in Nov - I know that this is a real basecamp pull a trailer kind of event - I can unload the 80 series and put the Maggiolina on the trailer along with water/12v pump - extra gas and the generator - keeping the 80 light for dune runs -


Here (http://homepage.mac.com/desertdude/Sites/M101%20trailer/M101%20trailer%20.html)are some photos of what happened so far

Photo below shows the M101 with a spring over and 33" tires on 80 series rims - getting a lid and a lock & roll hitch right now

[Scott Brady]

Ah, all the killer machines that come out of that garage :victory:

[Brian McVickers]

Looks Great! :sunflower

Nice and simple restore, looks like it was in exceptional condition to begin with.

Where did you find it? :box:

[Desertdude]

Thanks! I then towed it out with me to CA - while I am working here I can get other things done to it - it tows like a dream even empty

Bought it in winter of 2004 with the Copper State Cruisers group buy - a full tractor trailer load of 22 came to Phoenix out of Quebec - this is from circa 1992 - not in too bad a shape at all - the tub is incredibly stout the way it is constructed ...military all the way :box:

now to figure out a color scheme :coffee:

[kcowyo]

Ah, all the killer machines that come out of that garage :victory:

:iagree:

[Life_in_4Lo]

Pasquale,
that is so awesome, you have all the toys!:violent-smiley-031:

[BajaTaco]

Lookin' good Dude ;)

[FourByLand]

Hmmm, looking real good!

;)

[Desertdude]

Thanks! the latest work on it so far... lid frame made from 1x1 .120 dom - rivit on the steel piano hinge - and setting up the paddle slam latches - 14 guage steel skin on the frame -

[Brian McVickers]

Nice work and sweet garage!

[Desertdude]

:iagree: it pays to have friends in high places -


Nice work and sweet garage!

[Desertdude]

some info on the hardware used in making the lid

Hinges (http://www.allegiscorp.com/DisplayPartAction.do?partId=12702&groupId=2&groupElementId=1&displayTemplate=/jsp/displayDetailTemp_1.jsp&cat=Hinge)

Gas shocks (http://www.allegiscorp.com/DisplayPartAction.do?partId=25488&groupId=1001&groupElementId=1&displayTemplate=/jsp/displayDetailTemp_4.jsp&cat=Door+Assists)

Ball studs for shocks (http://www.allegiscorp.com/DisplayPartAction.do?partId=25467&groupId=1008&groupElementId=1&displayTemplate=/jsp/displayDetailTemp_2.jsp&cat=Door+Assists)

Slam latch kits (http://www.allegiscorp.com/DisplayPartAction.do?partId=24620&groupId=871&groupElementId=1&displayTemplate=/jsp/displayDetailTemp_39.jsp&cat=Multi-Point+Latching+Systems)

[The BN Guy]

Looks like it's gonna be a kick butt trailer! Can't wait to see it finished. Then maybe I can talk Handbrake into one.

[atavuss]

nice top! are you using gas struts to hold it open or are you going to just flip the top over to use as a table? are the paddles lockable? can you show detail for what the paddles latch against? any estimates on how much the top weighs? I have a 1946 Bantam TC-3 Civilian 1/4 ton trailer that I need to fab a top for, instead of having the top sit on top of the rails I want my top to go around the perimeter so it will enclose the tailgate (Civilian Bantam trailers came from factory with tailgate cut in) to make it more theft resistant and secure. I would have to put the supports on top of the outside top frame instead of butting it to the frame like you did. this will make it harder to fab a top though.

[Desertdude]

Thanks! the gas struts hold up to 250 lbs - in the link above they are the AC10250 shocks - the lid and tent rack wieghs apprx 125 lbs - the slam latch paddle is lockable - we welded mounts to the lid frame then welded simple 1x1 angle steel flush with the tub edges so the latches would catch - the hinge left approx. 3/8" gap which I sealed with a rubber gasket weather strip found at the hardware store ( I can get the type when I see my trailer next week)

with the tent on top the lid works perfect just enough wieght to keep it down when it is clicked open - but enough lift to make it easy to open - this is all adjusted by the strut install angle

[Desertdude]

a few more photos

[Desertdude]

a nice one of the 80 and M101 along the surf at Pismo

[Desertdude]

I would have to put the supports on top of the outside top frame instead of butting it to the frame like you did. this will make it harder to fab a top though.

I was first going to have the frame inside and the sheet metal top go over the lid - but then that would have been a whole lotta work for very little - I decided in the end it would be better to have the lid sit on top for strength and easy of construction

a tailgate would be a cool option and I might do this on my second M101 ;)

[njtaco]

Are you depending on the slam-latch for any real security? If so, you may want to replace the wafer-style cam-lock with a new one using a tubular key. (Like a Kryptonite bike lock uses.) The wafer locks are too easy to pick. Also, if there are any numbers printed on the outside of either style lock, a key can be easily made by "code". We do this often at work if we don't have a good original (or any) key to work from. At the very least, grind off the numbers on the face of the lock. This goes for conventional padlocks, too.

Oh, and nice trailer. :drool:

[Desertdude]

Good info

not really using the lock for real security - I would not consider leaving this trailer anywhere alone for too long :peepwall:

[Walldog]

.....I want my top to go around the perimeter so it will enclose the tailgate (Civilian Bantam trailers came from factory with tailgate cut in) to make it more theft resistant and secure. I would have to put the supports on top of the outside top frame instead of butting it to the frame like you did. this will make it harder to fab a top though.

Atavuss,
Just a thought but why not try to incorporate the stake pockets into the design. Create a base that inserts into the pockets and is fastened down semipermantly, but is inaccessible without the top being opened. Then have the top sit on the base. The base and top could be removed/added as one unit also, with doing minimum mods to the TC-3.

Wally

[atavuss]

Atavuss,
Just a thought but why not try to incorporate the stake pockets into the design. Create a base that inserts into the pockets and is fastened down semipermantly, but is inaccessible without the top being opened. Then have the top sit on the base. The base and top could be removed/added as one unit also, with doing minimum mods to the TC-3.

Wally

that would be super cool to use the stake pockets and not drill or do any welding to the trailer, but I can't think of how to make this work with my limited fab skills.

[elcoyote]

Your new tag-along toy is looking good Desertdude!:bowdown:
Nice work. One recomendation that I would make would be the addition of a Silent Hitch Pin on your Lock-n-Roll coupler as well as one on your vehicle's draw bar. They take all of the play out of the connection. We found that without them, under serious abuse (washboard) that the 5/8 hitch pin can become oval and add more looseness to the whole set up. We carry the one with the barrel lock on it (as shown) for improved security. Basically the way it works is that there is a spring loaded threaded insert that goes inside the draw bar tube that the theaded hitch pin fits into. By tightening the threaded hitch pin, the draw bar is pullled against the wall of the receiver tube and imobilized. The unit shown comes with a star washer to prevent loosening of the hitch pin but we replace it with a stainless steel split washer that performs the task better. You can see more detail on the product at ww.letsgoaero.com

[Desertdude]

Mucias gracias El - thanks for the link too!

[Willman]

Great thread!!!:clapsmile

Love your trailer!!!!

How has the lid heldup??? Any changes you would made or tips to another ExPo member in building this type of lid?

Thanks!!

:chowtime:

[Desertdude]

So far its held up well, including filling the inside with firewood and loading firewood logs on top during the winter :)

I also loaded last weekend 45 bags of 60LB post concrete inside and on top - the springs really flexed on this trip...

Only thing I would change is the slam latch - it can sometimes be a bit hard to open - it takes a certain amount of cushion between the lid and trailer to pop it open - I like the lid to seal tight against the weather strip which leaves very little space for the slam latch to pop open - I think AT has a better solution ( a clamp latch)

The gas shocks I chose are stiff so when I have the tent or a load on top the lid can still open and stay up - when the lid it empty its a bit stiff to close.

[ntsqd]

Yikes! I take it that those springs aren't normally like that.

Otherwise I like it! Got me thinking about the HD util trailer my grandad wants to give me b4 he has to put it in his will.

[Desertdude]

Ha... I never thought they could bend :)

I have a different suspension in mind, so I didn't really mind seeing how much it would take to flex that stiff set of leafs.

[FourByLand]

What other set up did you have in mind for the suspension?

[Desertdude]

Independent suspension. I was working on something new with a friend. But now I see AT is working on a suspension mod for the M101. I am waiting to see what magic they work out over there.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=79281&postcount=15

[elcoyote]

So far its held up well, including filling the inside with firewood and loading firewood logs on top during the winter :)

I also loaded last weekend 45 bags of 60LB post concrete inside and on top - the springs really flexed on this trip...

Only thing I would change is the slam latch - it can sometimes be a bit hard to open - it takes a certain amount of cushion between the lid and trailer to pop it open - I like the lid to seal tight against the weather strip which leaves very little space for the slam latch to pop open - I think AT has a better solution ( a clamp latch)

The gas shocks I chose are stiff so when I have the tent or a load on top the lid can still open and stay up - when the lid it empty its a bit stiff to close.

You're showing some serious de-arcing there Amigo! I don't know about the 101 but I know that the 416 is only rated for 1/4 ton...500 lbs cargo. We should have a retrofit for the 101 in the not to distant future. The 416 retro we did turned out quite well. Will Morgan whose trailer we did it on did a long trek with it and wrote about it at http://www.jeepbrokers.com/roadtrip_2007.htm

[Desertdude]

Yup - I should be arrested for trailer spring abuse :shakin:

The springs never really arched back either. :(

Waiting is...

[blupaddler]

I know I have followed you before but...

How does the trailer track behind the 80?
Is the track width the same?



:chowtime:

[Desertdude]

With the 80 wheels on the M101 outside to outside tire runs 64" the trailer with the custom welded tongue is 10' 4" total length

here is a PDF (http://idisk.mac.com/desertdude-Public/M101.size.drawing.v1.pdf) I created with a few other detailed measurements

[Willman]

Hey DD,

Little more infor. on your axle..........

Looking at your pictures on post one......
looks like you changed out the drum for a 6 lug??????

Did you ever get the AT conversion yet for your suspension?

:chowtime:

[Desertdude]

I did change the hubs seals and bearings. No new suspension yet - I may be fabbing something up, unless AT develops a kit. It does bounce a bit on the rough trails... :jumping:

[Desertdude]

found something to fit here


http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-172-hubs-and-drums.aspx

[Willman]

found something to fit here


http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-172-hubs-and-drums.aspx

There are a few there....which one did you have in mind???.......



You have that parking brake.....I do not:(

Trying to change out the hub without changing the axle......


Not to sure what i want to do as of yet......ether fab something up ......or do the AT thing later......

:REOutArchery02:

[Desertdude]

I only know which one fit the M101 - Hub dia/stud pattern/stud amount should get you close.

[ntsqd]

Willman, FWIW wheel bearings have interchangeable races & bearing cones. That is to say that one bearing cone will fit several to many races, each of which will have a different OD. So a hub conversion may involve telling a bearing house salesman that you need X.XXX" OD by X.XXX" ID by X.XXX" wide inner bearings and Y.YYY" OD by Y.YYY" ID by Y.YYY" wide outer bearings. Rather than measuring, could just take in samples of the bearing cones that fit the axle and the races that fit the hubs.

I mention this b/c I'm not sure that it's all that common knowledge.

[Willman]

Willman, FWIW wheel bearings have interchangeable races & bearing cones. That is to say that one bearing cone will fit several to many races, each of which will have a different OD. So a hub conversion may involve telling a bearing house salesman that you need X.XXX" OD by X.XXX" ID by X.XXX" wide inner bearings and Y.YYY" OD by Y.YYY" ID by Y.YYY" wide outer bearings. Rather than measuring, could just take in samples of the bearing cones that fit the axle and the races that fit the hubs.

I mention this b/c I'm not that it's all that common knowledge.

Your right as always:shakin: ........Thanks for the input!

I trying to take the guess work out of it by finding the right setup.......But when i'm dealing with a 1946' trailer......everything is custom!

:REOutArchery02:

[ntsqd]

Your right as always:shakin: ........Thanks for the input!

I trying to take the guess work out of it by finding the right setup.......But when i'm dealing with a 1946' trailer......everything is custom!

:REOutArchery02:
Since we've already hi-jack'd DD's thread, It really wouldn't surprise me to learn that the races in the new hubs fit the existing bearing cones. Trailer parts tend to be fairly standardized. The older the more so.
The only fly in ointment that I see is potentially any military interchangeability requirement making the bearing non-std trailer parts.

[Willman]

Must have missed this......What size tires are on this sweet trailer of yours Desertdude?

:)

[Desertdude]

255/85/16 El Dorado (http://www.eldoradotire.com/downloads/) Tempra Trailcutter
Radial M+S tires - Toyota Land Cruiser 80 series wheels

[MoGas]

Where did you get those hubs/drums? I want to go to 6 lug on my M416 and don't really want to spend all day in the machine shop or buy a complete axle assembly.

[taco chaser]

Where did you get those hubs/drums? I want to go to 6 lug on my M416 and don't really want to spend all day in the machine shop or buy a complete axle assembly.Check Redneck Trailer supplie's web site. http://www.redneck-trailer.com/