Any 12V power packs like this in the US?

[Superu]

Has anyone seen a unit like this in the states?

http://www.sidewinder.com.au/_wp_generated/wp08779065.jpg (http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page146.html)

This would be an ideal setup for the back of the Superu since underhood free space is nearly non-existent.

Comes with wiring, isolator, plugs and led charge status indicator. And, best of all it's portable so I can take it with me in different vehicles if necessary. I'm ok with the price, but would love to avoid shipping costs from AU! Been through that way too often over the past two years. :Wow1:

[Brian McVickers]

That is pretty slick.

[eugene]

Thats a standard battery box used in boats or sump pump backup systems, I've seen them at lowes and home depot. Just get one and a battery and chearer and inverter and put them all inside.

[KG6BWS]

check out west marine. that looks vaguely familiar, might have seen it there.

[waterweber]

I dont think that is a standard box. I would bet that it is much more heavy duty. It looks like a custom molded box.
This would not be hard to make though. We make big underwater batteries at work and adding the outlets and electronics would be simple. Getting the battery cells shouldnt be a problem either.
If I was going to make one I would probably just use a HD pelican case though.

[eugene]

Its not a custom box at all
http://images.google.com/images?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUS320&q=boat%20battery%20box&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi
looks exactly like the standard boat boxes, just in grey instead of black.

[ntsqd]

That box looks very similar to the one that I had for a trunk mounted battery in my '67 Mustang. Even if that particular unit is custom molded, you can find something similar at the aforementioned West Marine, RV stores, or similar. Shouldn't be too hard to build in the rest of the features.

[Mekinac]

Minn Kota make something similar.

Ideal for small boat, transom applications (boats that do not have battery compartments), this power center features easy-access external battery terminals that allow trolling motor leads and charger leads to be connected without opening the box. A built-in battery meter displays current “state of charge.”

*
Two 12-volt accessory plugs
* Two manual reset circuit breakers: 15-amp for acccessory plugs and 60-amp for trolling motor

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/products/accessories/battery/trolling_motor_power_center.aspx

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/com/xiips/Ektron/MetaData/RelatedImage.aspx?id=89&size=large

[KG6BWS]

Minn Kota make something similar.

Ideal for small boat, transom applications (boats that do not have battery compartments), this power center features easy-access external battery terminals that allow trolling motor leads and charger leads to be connected without opening the box. A built-in battery meter displays current “state of charge.”

*
Two 12-volt accessory plugs
* Two manual reset circuit breakers: 15-amp for acccessory plugs and 60-amp for trolling motor

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/products/accessories/battery/trolling_motor_power_center.aspx

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/com/xiips/Ektron/MetaData/RelatedImage.aspx?id=89&size=large

I think thats the one ive seen!! i remember thinking about getting ti for just that reason, running a trolling motor on my jon boat.

[Spikepretorius]

Try National Luna. They make a good one.

http://www.nationalluna.com/PPPack.htm

[waterweber]

You guys are kidding yourselves if you think a flimsey West Marine Battery box is going to hold up during offroad travel. Those things barely hold up in my boat. They are too thin, too flexible, and get brittle in the sun. If the ARB box is that light weight I would never buy it.
The National Luna looks sweet though.

[daverami]

Try National Luna. They make a good one.

http://www.nationalluna.com/PPPack.htm

That unit looks really nice. Also wondering if they are available in the U.S. Google didn't get me much.

[ntsqd]

All of those battery boxes are thin plastic and not really designed for hard core off road use, but I somehow doubt that the OP is going rock crawling in a Subaru, so for his stated use I don't see this being much if any problem.

[Superu]

That unit looks really nice. Also wondering if they are available in the U.S. Google didn't get me much.

Equipt (http://www.equipt1.com/h/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,318/category_id,153/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,31/) carries the National Luna PPP.

It looks very nice but is a bit big for my needs.

Sierra Expeditions (http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_list&m=62) doesn't have it listed on the website, but they do carry other NL stuff so they may be able to order it for you.

[Mekinac]

Normally battery plastic box are thin and cheap I agree...
But the minnKota are thicker and stronger.

[ntsqd]

Happened to be at a West Marine today so I had a look at the boxes on display. They're not rock solid, only bendable by Thor himself, but they're pretty decent. I'd buy one for the stated use if I had such a need.

Just dump the included strap and find something serious.

[Geronimo]

Summit has lots of options. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+-104319&D=-104319 Summit branded boxes look heavy duty.

[Cabrito]

Those are all real nice examples and I would not mind having one like the Luna. Price always stops me on those.
How much power do you need? What kind of stuff are you going to run off of it?
I have been using one of those cheap power packs for jumping a car battery for years with great results. It has a nice little meter in the front to check the charge.
http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo275/elcabritos/Random%20Stuff%20for%20posts/Batteryjumpermodified006.jpg

I just replaced the battery in mine this week and modified the box with Anderson Power Poles so I can easily connect my Amateur radios with it. (work in progress) I also got rid of the cheesy air compressor that was in it.
http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo275/elcabritos/Random%20Stuff%20for%20posts/Batteryjumpermodified004.jpg http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo275/elcabritos/Random%20Stuff%20for%20posts/Batteryjumpermodified003.jpg


I have used it for many things like Satellite radio, MP3 player, HAM radio, AUX flood light off the back of the truck, all with the cig lighter input.
http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo275/elcabritos/Random%20Stuff%20for%20posts/Batteryjumpermodified002.jpg


Plus I've jumped many many cars with dead batteries. It's small and fits in either vehicle.

Replacement battery was 12v 18ah for $34. Still need to test it jumping a car with the new battery.

..

[greg mgm]

That's a very good idea Cabrito.
For the uses you mentioned, that portable battery pack should fit the bill.

I borrowed my friends battery pack twice and it worked great.

Is the hole in the back of yours where the air compressor was? If so,
no wonder you removed it!

[Cabrito]

Yes the hole is where the air pressure gauge was. I still have to fill the hole with some sort of cover. I am mounting the compressor in my garage hooked up to a small battery to fill bicycle tires.



That's a very good idea Cabrito.
For the uses you mentioned, that portable battery pack should fit the bill.

I borrowed my friends battery pack twice and it worked great.

Is the hole in the back of yours where the air compressor was? If so,
no wonder you removed it!

[Superu]

A jump pack does not have enough long term power for what I need, so I'm thinking of starting with one of these since it has a charge indicator, battery connect posts and 12V plug already installed:

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/com/xiips/Ektron/MetaData/RelatedImage.aspx?id=89&size=large

adding one of these:

http://bluesea.com/files/images/products/7610.jpg

and wiring it up as needed with a 6m run of cabling with anderson plugs on either end.

http://www.electricboatparts.com.au/persistent/catalogue_images/categories/289230.jpg

My primary use for this will be to sit next to my Engel MT45 for extended outings without worrying about killing my starting battery. I'll be putting an Optima Dual Purpose in the box and will top it off as needed with my Sunsei solar panel which worked very well last season.

The plus to this setup will be ease of use in multiple vehicles, quick connect/disconnect, flexibility in location of battery and the ability to keep it charged up while underway.

Any thoughts or tips on wiring this up?

My initial thought is to run a pair of 4ga wires from the battery to the back of the vehicle, terminate with the female Anderson plug, add a male Anderson to the battery box and add the ACR and an inline fuse under the lid of the box.

[ThomD]

I'm interested in whatever solution you can come up with. This merges nicely with the discussion about fridges in bear country. With a "portable" battery, I can put the fridge and the battery in the bear box and Bob's your uncle.

[ThomD]

As far as the wiring, if you do not plan to use the battery to jump your engine, that is to say that the connection from the engine to the BBox is only to function as a trickle charger, I would think that the wiring would not need to be very heavy. There have been discussions about just using existing cig lighter plugs (where they exist).

[spencyg]

The only time I would reduce the wire size less than that rated for the available charging current from your alternator is if you had some serious heat-sink-laden resistors to slow down current flow. Just assuming a smaller charging wire gauge will be ok if you're using small amounts of current off the battery is false, as the battery will want to draw as much current as is available if discharged any appriciable amount.

Spence

[teotwaki]

I'm interested in whatever solution you can come up with. This merges nicely with the discussion about fridges in bear country. With a "portable" battery, I can put the fridge and the battery in the bear box and Bob's your uncle.

Dang. Bob is pretty smart! That is a great combination.

[Cabrito]

A jump pack does have enough long term power for what I need,

My primary use for this will be to sit next to my Engel MT45 for extended outings without worrying about killing my starting battery.

That's for sure.

[kmroxo]

I'm interested in whatever solution you can come up with. This merges nicely with the discussion about fridges in bear country. With a "portable" battery, I can put the fridge and the battery in the bear box and Bob's your uncle.

I was thinking the same thing. You could run the wires inside the car to keep it charged. Since the Minn Kota says it has two 12 volt sockets it could also attach the a mini fridge powering that while being charged and then like you said, the whole thing can be moved in to the bear box at night. Though the simplicity of National Luna Portable Power Pack looks excellent.

[saburai]

Try National Luna. They make a good one.

http://www.nationalluna.com/PPPack.htm

Looks like a good unit. I see that Equipt sells it here in the USA.
Would it be possible to install this so that it would be able to pull back up duty to the main battery for winching and emergency starting? How would the circuit run?

[Superu]

Any reason an not to use an Optima AGM Yellow Top in the National Luna box and leave the stock battery for starting? Since the National Luna PPP has an isolator, I would think this would be fine. Thoughts?

[saburai]

Any reason an not to use an Optima AGM Yellow Top in the National Luna box and leave the stock battery for starting? Since the National Luna PPP has an isolator, I would think this would be fine. Thoughts?


I want to be able to combine them for a high draw event like winching...

[rctr03]

i have the minkota type box, three years use in my trailer. i have a trickle charger mounted to the top that is attached to shore power, it has a battery meter on the top. i have a 2000 honda for charging if the battery drops. usually two days with the engel 35 on 2 is when it needs a charge. mine has held up with alot of offroad travel. i like the luna box, but i did not have access to it when i was building my trailer. i think it depends on your budget. i would also agree that you get what you pay for.

jimmy

[spikemd]

Reviving an old thread...

I am also tossing up ideas to power my ARB fridge (its being ship as I type). I was thinking about two scenarios... run the fridge off my main battery and have a PowerStation jumpstart unit ready if I ever need a boost (I know the ARB has an automatic cut-off for low voltage, but I am still paranoid) or try and run the ARB directly off the Powerstation.

I am going to try and run the ARB off the PowerStation when it gets here and see how long it lasts.

The nice thing about the Minn Kota box, is that you can put in a true deep cycle battery made for extended service. The PowerStation has a sealed lead battery with only 18Ah of power in a standard (non-deep cycle) battery. The marine battery Group 27 battery has 90Ah and is deep cycle.
You also have to consider wiring the MinnKota in to be charged up and then you may loose some of the portability. The PowerStation can be charged from 120V AC or the 12V in the truck.

Costs: $65 for the MinnKota box, $70 for the deep cycle battery vs $65 for the PowerStation from Costco.

Yes, the Luna is great, but at $500 for just the box, its out of the budget. I blew my load on the fridge!

[saburai]

Reviving an old thread...

I am also tossing up ideas to power my ARB fridge (its being ship as I type). I was thinking about two scenarios... run the fridge off my main battery and have a PowerStation jumpstart unit ready if I ever need a boost (I know the ARB has an automatic cut-off for low voltage, but I am still paranoid) or try and run the ARB directly off the Powerstation.

I am going to try and run the ARB off the PowerStation when it gets here and see how long it lasts.

The nice thing about the Minn Kota box, is that you can put in a true deep cycle battery made for extended service. The PowerStation has a sealed lead battery with only 18Ah of power in a standard (non-deep cycle) battery. The marine battery Group 27 battery has 90Ah and is deep cycle.
You also have to consider wiring the MinnKota in to be charged up and then you may loose some of the portability. The PowerStation can be charged from 120V AC or the 12V in the truck.

Costs: $65 for the MinnKota box, $70 for the deep cycle battery vs $65 for the PowerStation from Costco.

Yes, the Luna is great, but at $500 for just the box, its out of the budget. I blew my load on the fridge!

I don't think that the PowerStation is up to the task of powering the fridge for anything more than a short time. I didn't do the math - just my gut talking.
On another note, some time ago I spoke with a NL dealer - a forum member, about the NL PP box. I had some questions about different applications. He never followed up...

[spikemd]

I agree, I don't think the Powerstation will power the fridge for long. Its a small lead-acid starting battery not meant for deep cycling. I will let you know how long it lasts when the fridge arrives. (It should be here Tuesday.)

I still have the original battery in my 2003 4Runner. Its coming on 6 years, so it is nearing the end of its lifespan. I am considering switching to an AGM deep cycle battery as my main battery to have the extra juice to power the ARB. I then will have the Powerstation in case I need an extra boost. The AGMs are $$$, but I think worth it for the extra power.

I won't be putting in a dual-battery set-up for awhile.

[Oni]

How about one of these:

http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/63/p/1/pt/24/product.asp

Golf cart battery, built in inverter, charges by AC or DC.

[spikemd]

The good news, the PSX PowerStation bought at Costco for $65 powered the ARB freezer for 2 nights. This was great when we were traveling seeing as though my stock battery is at the end of its life. The bad news, my stock battery (6 years old) wouldn't power the freezer for more than a few hours before the 'low voltage' warning shut it off. This was a big clue that my battery is about dead. I am searching for a replacement now.

Sure glad I had the PowerStation in Death Valley to keep our freezer running.

[pete.wilson]

Hey

I have the Minn Kota battery box and it works great in the back of my truck; Since I have a topper and sleep in the back of the truck, it used to power 2 lights, a small fan, lights that are wired for rear facing lights/or used as backup lights when the trucks in reverse or off, and several 12v outlets. Also works for the electric blanket. Bought the box at Walmart for about $50 and has a 90amp/hr. series 27 deep-cycle battery. I found it to be better built than the ones I saw at Bass Pro Shops which cost about $10 more.

Pete Wilson

[saburai]

Hey

I have the Minn Kota battery box and it works great in the back of my truck; Since I have a topper and sleep in the back of the truck, it used to power 2 lights, a small fan, lights that are wired for rear facing lights/or used as backup lights when the trucks in reverse or off, and several 12v outlets. Also works for the electric blanket. Bought the box at Walmart for about $50 and has a 90amp/hr. series 27 deep-cycle battery. I found it to be better built than the ones I saw at Bass Pro Shops which cost about $10 more.

Pete Wilson

I'm thinking of that one as well!

How do you charge it?

I'm assuming it would be possible to trickle charge it via one of the 12v lighter ports...

[Superu]

Yes, the Luna is great, but at $500 for just the box, its out of the budget. I blew my load on the fridge!

The Luna is more than a box. It includes the box, isolator, low voltage alarm, charging status, battery monitor and heavy gauge cables, fuses and connectors.

I went back and forth on the cost until I ran the actual numbers of buying the individual components necessary for a dual battery setup with all the features of the National Luna box versus the cost and time savings of the NL PPP. The Luna is still a bit higher on the cash outlay, but the convenience and time savings easily outweighed it for me.

The PPP worked flawlessly as expected on our trips this summer and I expect to have many years ahead with it. I'm not positive, but am pretty sure you can fit a much larger battery in the Luna than in the Minn Kota box. Just something to consider when determining how many days of power you'll need.

p.s. While saving for the Luna, we used a 2nd AGM battery that we topped up with a Sunsei solar panel. Worked well with the Engel MT45 on fridge setting. Freeze likely would've taken more out than the panel could put back in over the course of a day.

[tremors834]

Heres my "portable" dual battery setup. I decided to mount a 1500/3000 watt inverter on the battery box. The battery box uses a sealed spill-proof AGM deep cycle battery and mounts in the cargo area. The whole setup is controlled by a switch on the dash.
All the wire terminal connectors are soldered and heat shrinked.
Only things left to do is design a way the mount the box in the rear. I have a couple of ideas I have to work with. Also I want to put some wiring loom over the wires in the engine compartment.

Here is the completed battery box.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2635/3980673048_80b574474a_o.jpg

Besides the inverter I also added a 12volt power outlet and a voltage meter.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2543/3979920363_e54bb4f070_o.jpg

Inside the box with a Diehard Platnium AGM Deep Cycle Battery

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2478/3980671408_71e42e71bc_o.jpg

The Andersen Power Pole Disconnects

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/3979913523_97c8dfa2e0_o.jpg

The heavy duty battery wiring is 2ga. The Positive runs along the edge inside the X under the molding, then goes through the firewall.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2655/3980673612_b4d1b82544_o.jpg

The isolation solenoid

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2649/3980674854_0424a41d65_o.jpg

the 150 amp manual reset breaker

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2674/3979912059_b6360cdda9_o.jpg

Battery connections

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2626/3979917627_750b321926_o.jpg

With the engine running the voltage drop through the 2ga wiring is almost non-existant.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2668/3980676976_43bb773da4_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2636/3980678110_af6af1679f_o.jpg

continued next......

[tremors834]

The control switch operates as follows.
Up-green LED on, the aux battery is charged only when the engine is running. If the engine is not running then the aux battery is automatically isolated from the system because it gets its power from an engine running wire in the steering column.
Switch in the middle position, No LED lit, the the system is "off". Aux battery does not charge and is isolated from the system and main batt.
Switch Down - red LED on, "emergency jump start" the aux battery can jump start the main battery if needed.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3526/3980675288_81fb70a255_o.jpg

Here is a wiring diagram of the setup.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3482/3980673972_0211621bcb_o.jpg

Gene

[saburai]

Super cool set up! I'd love to build some thing like that.
Could you please tell us where you sourced the parts? I'm especially intrested the batt box, where did you get it?

Many Thanks...

[tremors834]

The box is a utility dry box made by MTM.

Their website is http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/products/camping/dry_boxes.html#atv

The rest of the parts are from waytekwire.com and other various online suppliers.

[saburai]

The box is a utility dry box made by MTM.

Their website is http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/products/camping/dry_boxes.html#atv

The rest of the parts are from waytekwire.com and other various online suppliers.

Thanks for the link! Which model box did you use? What size battery?

I saw you post on the Xtera site! If the offer stand here as well, a parts list with suppliers would be wonderful. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be thankful:)

Many thanks...

[Yudda]

I dont know how... but...i (no electrical experience) actually understand that diagram ! Excellent work !

I would love a list as well. Thats a great idea.

rob

[saburai]

I dont know how... but...i (no electrical experience) actually understand that diagram ! Excellent work !

I would love a list as well. Thats a great idea.

rob


Yeah Rob I agree! I have a bit of electrical know how (a little bit can be dangerous! LOL). Very nice write up!

Gene, if you keep making post like this you will be a popular guy around here:sombrero:

[rugbier]

Wrangler NW is exactly that set up and you can purchase everything you need to install a Dual Battery Management Kit

Of course no afiliation with WNW

[saburai]

Wrangler NW is exactly that set up and you can purchase everything you need to install a Dual Battery Management Kit

Of course no afiliation with WNW

Linkage?

[tremors834]

Wrangler North West (http://www.wranglernw.com)
Many of the electrical components can be purchased from them.
Or as follows-
The Box is made by MTM its the sportsmans SPUD2 dry box. It can be found here http://www.northwestshootersupply.com/mtmsportsmanplusdryboxspud-1-11forestgreen-2-1.aspx

The 200 amp solenoid (http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/77003/SOLENOID%20CONTINUOUS%20DUTY%20SPST/)

Manual Reset Circuit Breaker (http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/46989/HI%20AMP%20MANUAL%20RESET%20150%20AMP/)

Disconnects (http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/37806/ANDERSON%20CONNECTOR%20HOUSING/)

Power Point (http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/11020/WEATHER%20PROOF%20DC%20OUTLET/)

I cant remember exactly where I got the voltmeter. I'm sure you can find one by googling it.
The switch and LEDS are seperate pieces and were purchased locally at Radio Shack.
Hope this all helps.
Gene

[saburai]

Gene - many thanks:wings:

I'll be taking a look at the links later...

Thanks again!

[ldivinag]

tremors...

killer setup. couple questions though.

1. how is the battery box mounted? is it secured? or just sitting there?

2. your 3 position switch. i take the it position 1, is wired when the key ignition switch is on the ON position? i guess the only diff between #1 and #3 is that if #3, it immediately connects the 2 batts together, no matter if the key is on or not?

[tremors834]

1. how is the battery box mounted? is it secured? or just sitting there?

In that picture it is just sitting there. I started using "E track" and clip to strap it down. I've since removed the "E" track and am starting to fabricate a cargo shelf/drawer system.



2. your 3 position switch. i take the it position 1, is wired when the key ignition switch is on the ON position? i guess the only diff between #1 and #3 is that if #3, it immediately connects the 2 batts together, no matter if the key is on or not?

Thats correct. Position 1 would normal operating position. 2 would be where the batteries are isolated from each other, regardless of the ignition switch position. 3 is basically an emergency jump start. It take power directly from the aux battery to power the solenoid.

[bobholthaus]

Tremors- awesome diagram. Thank you for taking the time to do that. Two questions: 1. I thought the relay/solenoid was a "one way" deal. That doesn't seem to be the case here. So if one battery is lower than the other, they will both equalize when the switch is on. 2. Why do you need a fuse b/w the auxbattery and inverter? I thought you could wire that directly. Thanks Again. I'm starting my portable build this week.

[tremors834]

Tremors- awesome diagram. Thank you for taking the time to do that. Two questions: 1. I thought the relay/solenoid was a "one way" deal. That doesn't seem to be the case here. So if one battery is lower than the other, they will both equalize when the switch is on.

That's why it's designed so that in normal "ON- Switch up" operation the solenoid is only energized (contacts closed) when the ignition is on (engine running) and the alternator can charge the batteries. Equalization of the batteries is not an issue.
When the ignition is off and the engine is not running. The solenoid is de-energized and the contacts open, isolating the batteries and preventing them to equalize.
When the switch is in the emergency jump / down position, the solenoid is energized regardless if the engine is running or not. It's only used to "jump start" the main battery should it be too far depleted to start the engine.
Maybe your thinking of a diode type battery isolator? They allow current to flow only one way.


2. Why do you need a fuse b/w the auxbattery and inverter? I thought you could wire that directly. Thanks Again. I'm starting my portable build this week.

Call it redundancy :).
Usually if the connections for the inverter is a long run of wire, you'll want want a fuse inline.
Even though it's a short (approx 1 ft) run of wire between the inverter and the battery, I feel better having it there. Especially since theres a lot of bouncing and vibrations off pavement. Perhaps an accidental loose electrical connection popping off and shorting. Or the wires coming out of the box could accidentally rub against something that I load in the cargo area.

Hope this is helpful info.

[bobholthaus]

Ah, got it. Thanks again for taking the time to write. I was thinking of the one-way diode type isolator. I bought my Diehard Platinum battery today!!

[Lance4me]

Nice, I'm going to build one soon.

[Lance4me]

Gene, do you remember what's the total cost of it?
Ken

[tremors834]

Total cost was in the vicinity of $200 not including the battery. Biggest expense (other than battery) is the solenoid at about $50 and the heavy gauge wiring. I got a lot of the parts from Waytek and McMastercarr.

[Lance4me]

I wonder is that your rig across the street from where my sister-in-law used to live (Stratford Ct).

[Jnich77]

checkhttp://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=400527 out west marine. that looks vaguely familiar, might have seen it there.

Thats exactly what I was thinking!!!

[tremors834]

I wonder is that your rig across the street from where my sister-in-law used to live (Stratford Ct).

Nope. Never been to Stratford....

[Lance4me]

I saw there's 2 breaker in the photo, could you please explain what's the purpose of having 2?

[ldivinag]

I saw there's 2 breaker in the photo, could you please explain what's the purpose of having 2?

i believe they are for 2 diff circuits...

[tremors834]

i believe they are for 2 diff circuits...

Thats correct. The 60 amp breaker on the left in the pic is for an AUX Fuse block.

[spikemd]

Tremors- thanks again for the write-up. Very comprehensive and well thought out. Thanks also for the links to the individual parts and the wiring diagram.

This is the kind of system that will work best for me for a couple of reasons.

One, it is portable and you can take the battery out of the truck and put it next to the fridge rather than always going back to the truck for a brew.

Two, I have two rigs and can easily transport the battery pack between them. Makes more sense for me. I will hopefully start working on this next month.

I may look at a Minnkota box since it has the battery charge status, 12v accessory plugs and terminals already installed. Also, I may consider a one-way diode isolator and not include the switch in the dash. I like your set-up but probably don't need the capability of jumping the truck from the switch. If I kill the main battery, then I will be forced to take the backup battery/box to the front of the vehicle for a jump. I still take jumpercables with me everywhere, more to help others than myself. I also won't be keeping the battery-box in the vehicle at all times. Great set-up for a reasonable price.

The portable PowerStation has worked well for me for short trips since it is so easy and cheap. Not a long term solution, but I didn't have the time/money to put in a system last year before our 2 week trip to the Southwest (Death Valley, Vegas, Grand Canyon, Albuquerque and Moab). Surprisingly, that little 18ah battery lasts a long time (one full day in moderate heat) but I assume it will not continue to last that long as it is not a deep cycle battery.

[tremors834]

I wonder is that your rig across the street from where my sister-in-law used to live (Stratford Ct).


Nope. Never been to Stratford....

I must brain dead. Yes, that is my Rig across from Stratford Court. :drool:
I was thinking you meant Stratford Conneticut, if it even exsists.

[Lance4me]

Cool, nice rig you got there.

[Lance4me]

Wrangler North West (http://www.wranglernw.com)
Many of the electrical components can be purchased from them.
Or as follows-
The Box is made by MTM its the sportsmans SPUD2 dry box. It can be found here http://www.northwestshootersupply.com/mtmsportsmanplusdryboxspud-1-11forestgreen-2-1.aspx

The 200 amp solenoid (http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/77003/SOLENOID%20CONTINUOUS%20DUTY%20SPST/)

Manual Reset Circuit Breaker (http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/46989/HI%20AMP%20MANUAL%20RESET%20150%20AMP/)

Disconnects (http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/37806/ANDERSON%20CONNECTOR%20HOUSING/)

Power Point (http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/11020/WEATHER%20PROOF%20DC%20OUTLET/)

I cant remember exactly where I got the voltmeter. I'm sure you can find one by googling it.
The switch and LEDS are seperate pieces and were purchased locally at Radio Shack.
Hope this all helps.
Gene

Link for the solenoid is only 85 amp, is it ok to use or should I go with a 200 amp? Thanks for any help.

[tremors834]

200 amp.
I think 85 amp would be too small.
Perhaps they changed the link or I just flat out screwed up the link. :D

[Lance4me]

Will this do the job?
Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24143 Continuous Duty Solenoid: Automotive

[tremors834]

Will this do the job?
Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24143 Continuous Duty Solenoid: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24143-Continuous-Solenoid/dp/B000XBKHZY/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1292386425&sr=8-3-fkmr2)

Yep, That'll work...

[BirfMark]

Will this do the job?
Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24143 Continuous Duty Solenoid: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24143-Continuous-Solenoid/dp/B000XBKHZY/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1292386425&sr=8-3-fkmr2)

Much cheaper versions at Surplus Center:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=11-3290&catname=

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=11-3278&catname=

:)

[Lance4me]

Much cheaper versions at Surplus Center:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=11-3290&catname=

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=11-3278&catname=

:)

good price:Wow1:.....made in China.....no wonder.....

[tremors834]

I'm actually about to swap out the solenoid relay.
I've gone through 2 of the following stinger 200 amp solenoids on my setup.
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:VIW7-tmCXD5rwM:http://www.airassisted.com/images/solenoid.gif&t=1
On the 1st I snapped off one of the threaded lugs with a rachet after cleaning some oxidation that had formed.
On the 2nd one it just stopped working.
I'm thinking of going with a Trombetta 404-1231-032 contactor/relay (http://shopping.murcal.com/Catalog/Defender-DC-Contactor-Family/Trombetta-404-1231-032)

[Lance4me]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cole-Hersee-200-Amp-Continuous-Duty-Insulated-Solenoid-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5e61d798QQitemZ25069 1573656QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

find it cheaper here.:)

[fjatheart]

http://www.perfectswitch.com/power-gate/battery-discharge-controllers/

These are a bit pricey, but they out last all the $30 units out there. We've got them at work on 12 cab over Fuso's to assist with powering some on board technology. MOSFET connections! Solid state! Nice ABS housing with connections sealed in epoxy.