dana 35 ok for overlanding?

[BIGdaddy]

I'm thinking I just want to "run what I brung" until the 35 dies.

There's a few products that take the dana 35 rear and put bigger spline axles and a locker in , but what If you break something out in the boonies? no-one's going to have a spare?

I was thinking I could truss it with a Superior 35 truss, MAYBE run some chromo 27 spline axles, but that would be the extent of what I do....

Will it hold up to trails like coyote canyon and the rest of ocotillo? I'm thinking probably.

The other option would be to put an 8.8 from an exploder. anyone considered this or done this? are parts easy to find? I don't like that I would have a hybrid/custom driveshaft in that scenario (Jeep yoke/ford yoke/shortened)

just thinking out loud. :)

[NOMADIC_LJ]

What size tires are you running??

Coyote canyon can be done in 2wd so if thats the type of trails you are running, the D35 will hold up no problem.

Everyone bashes the D35 but truthfully its a decent axle if you are not crawling the hammers on 40's. Before I got my LJ, I was running a TJ on 32's. I did just about every trail in big bear, Jtree, Anza etc with no problems. Ran those trails for years and never broke a thing.

If you are really worried then get chromoly shafts or a super 35 kit. Don't believe all the hype on the internet. Is it an ideal axle to have? probably not but its also not as bad as most people would have you believe either.

[luk4mud]

BigDaddy-
My suggestion is to jump on jeepforum.com and contact a member there named "mrblaine". He has developed a number of upgrades to the D35 for one or more manufacturers and is quite knowledgeable in this area. Best of all, he is just up the road from you in Dana Point. I would be careful locking up that D35 without talking to Blaine first.
Good, luck,
Bruce

[ExpoMike]

My buddy (who actually got me into Cherokees) ran the D35 (factory LSD, 4.10) for the last 10 years and just recently changed over to a Chrysler 8.25 due to problems with the D35. Finally the case spread apart enough to cause excess play in the gears and was causing a whine.

He has been running 31" tall tires and all stock internals the whole time he had it (stock prior to him, his is a 92). If you plan to stay a 31" tires or smaller, unless you are REALLY hard on the gas pedal if you have the tires bound up, I doubt you will ever have a problem. As for D35, they are very common in the Jeep world so spares on the trails is more likely to be found then a Ford 8.8 or even the Chrysler 8.25.

If you want to throw money at the D35, there are a lot of ways to beef it up but money spent, the 8.25 or 8.8 would be better. Remember the 8.8 is narrower then any of the stock Cherokee axles, so you will have to run spacers or have custom offset wheels. Something to think about.

Personally, until you are ready to do a lift and figure out what size tire you want, run what you have. If you move up to 31" or larger tires, start looking at rear ends with the correct gear ratio and do the swap then. Otherwise, just get out and enjoy what you have!!! :D

Later Bud

[Lumberjack]

BigDaddy-
My suggestion is to jump on jeepforum.com and contact a member there named "mrblaine". He has developed a number of upgrades to the D35 for one or more manufacturers and is quite knowledgeable in this area. Best of all, he is just up the road from you in Dana Point. I would be careful locking up that D35 without talking to Blaine first.
Good, luck,
Bruce

Great advice, I heard Blaine was working on the weak link on the d35, if one can be made to survive, he would know...

That said, the d35 can be a pain, luckily parts are everywhere and can be had cheap if you look hard enough. I would carry spares of almost everything, especially spider gears, last couple of times out that seemed to be a common failure.

Yes, some people have had good luck with there d35... I thought I was one of those, went on several trips without issue. Beefed it up with full floater, ARB, all was well for a year or two, then first day out on an easy trail in Moab with BB4WA, I broke... no destroyed it. Lucky for me I had my Grand Cherokee out there and was able to salvage the rest of the trip, my Grand on Prichett was a riot...

Also, not sure where a good cut off point would be before cost would exceed value... It can be very easy to dump enough money into one that you could have something else and never have to look back...

Anyhow, I would be replace it as soon as it is feasable, time, budget, ect. I wouldn't let it stop from making a few trips, I would just be more cautious on hard climbs.

My 2 cents...

Dennis

PS. I have some d35 axle shafts laying around, pay shipping and you can have them.

[Root Moose]

Get a ChryCo 29 spline 8.25 from the junk yard for ~$100.

Bolt it in.

Done.

[StumpXJ]

Exactly what Root Moose said.

Unbolt D35, bolt in 29 spline 8.25 and forget about it. You can get them all day long at the junk yard for cheap.

I beat the crap out of my bone stock 8.25 with 33's.

~James

[CA-RJ]

I think you'll be fine. I ran the one in my first TJ, locked with 4.88's and 33's and only broke one shaft and that was my fault. You're not going to have a problem with it tooling around in the desert, especially if it's open.

[BIGdaddy]

Exactly what Root Moose said.

Unbolt D35, bolt in 29 spline 8.25 and forget about it. You can get them all day long at the junk yard for cheap.

I beat the crap out of my bone stock 8.25 with 33's.

~James

cool. I didn't know that...thats a great option. Sticking with factory jeep stuff, bolt in, major parts availability in the boonies, aftermarket support.

[Root Moose]

The only real caveat to the 8.25 is that it can't be geared as low as say a Dana 44. Used to be you could only go as low as 4.56:1 although spidey-sense is telling me that 4.88:1 gears are available now.

For the record, Dana 44 can go as low as 5.89:1. Not that I'd recommend that on a vehicle over ~2500 lbs and/or pushing more power than can be made by a 4 cylinder engine.

IIRC, '96 and up 8.25s are 29 spline. Check the tag and/or count shaft revolutions to be certain of the gear ratio. Most six cylinder XJs of that vintage will be 3.55:1. IIRC 4.10 was available in the four cylinder manual and six cylinders with the tow package might be 3.73.

Other nice thing about the 8.25 is that you can use Jeep parts to add rear disk brakes (search for how-tos).

FWIW, I have a 8.25 axle sitting in my garage. Pulled it from my XJ when I installed the Dana 44. It's a good sized axle. Has a strong "impression" to it if that makes any sense. I'd run it in a second if I didn't already have the full-float Dana 44 built.

HTH

[ERratIC]

Don't waste you money on the axle. It might be fine all depends on the trails, tire size, gears and how heavy your right foot is. If you are only going to run 31" you will be fine with the 35. You could also search around for a XJ dana44 they are a bit hard to come by but it will bolt right in.

[XJeeper]

The 29 spline (1997 up) C8.25s are considdered by most to be good up to 35" tires. I run 34" LTBs on mine offroad and hammer it pretty hard at times with no problems thus far. They are c-clip axles but still solid units. There are 4:88s available for them now: http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22_33_103&products_id=2684 .
An all around great bolt in upgrade from the 35 especially if you're going to run bigger than 31'' tires, hit the rocks at any serious level or lock it. Putting lockers in a regular 35 is taboo.

Just my 2cents.

[troy]

Get a ChryCo 29 spline 8.25 from the junk yard for ~$100.

Bolt it in.

Done.

X2

[QUOTE=Lumberjack;416990]Anyhow, I would be replace it as soon as it is feasable, time, budget, ect. I wouldn't let it stop from making a few trips, I would just be more cautious on hard climbs.

QUOTE]

I ran a 35 on a Yj and then a TJ for a combined 150K on 33's. My offroading was limited to overland style, and they were not locked. Don't let it stop you from making trips, but cheap bolt in solutions are readily available.

[BIGdaddy]

The 29 spline (1997 up) C8.25s are considdered by most to be good up to 35" tires. I run 34" LTBs on mine offroad and hammer it pretty hard at times with no problems thus far. They are c-clip axles but still solid units. There are 4:88s available for them now: http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22_33_103&products_id=2684 .
An all around great bolt in upgrade from the 35 especially if you're going to run bigger than 31'' tires, hit the rocks at any serious level or lock it. Putting lockers in a regular 35 is taboo.

Just my 2cents.

yeah, tires above 33's isn't in the books, but lockers certainly are. I'd like to go to a selectable, like an arb or an OX. I honestly have no desire at all to lift it right now. This is an excellent daily driver, daddy of three, car, and will be our main camping/long trail truck.

I always talk about coyote canyon because its my favorite trail, and also the first 4x4 trip I ever went on with my now passed Uncle. If the truck can do that trail pretty much stock as far as suspension, I don't see any issue. This'll mean engine/tranny/diff. skids, upgraded/skidplated steering, etc, but all that stuff can go on with no modification and little effect on drivability.

I, honestly, am considering the swap more for long term reliability under near-stock conditions, than I am for rock-smashing ability. I'd like a rear-end that I can simply forget about because of its intrinsic reliability, not unlike the np231 or the 4.0L.

[XJeeper]

yeah, tires above 33's isn't in the books, but lockers certainly are. I'd like to go to a selectable, like an arb or an OX. I honestly have no desire at all to lift it right now. This is an excellent daily driver, daddy of three, car, and will be our main camping/long trail truck.

I always talk about coyote canyon because its my favorite trail, and also the first 4x4 trip I ever went on with my now passed Uncle. If the truck can do that trail pretty much stock as far as suspension, I don't see any issue. This'll mean engine/tranny/diff. skids, upgraded/skidplated steering, etc, but all that stuff can go on with no modification and little effect on drivability.

I, honestly, am considering the swap more for long term reliability under near-stock conditions, than I am for rock-smashing ability. I'd like a rear-end that I can simply forget about because of its intrinsic reliability, not unlike the np231 or the 4.0L.

I understand completely. While my rig is reasonably capable in the rocks it is a daily driver. I run 31" ATs on the street because the 4banger in it does not like anything much bigger in high range. With the 34s it will pull well enough in high range to get around but as soon as it gets worse than a rough gravel road to the 4:1 low range we go. I'm sure I will break something eventually but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

A 29 spline C8.25 would be an excellent diff for your apparent needs and is an easy, cheap bolt in swap. I don't think it will even require any driveshaft mods but don't quote me on that.

Luv them Cherokees.

[Booner]

I'm running a D35 in my 98 Grand 4.0, 138K on the clock. I belong to a local Jeep club (www.hrja.org) and my ZJ is the veteran of many trail rides and camping trips. It has a 3 inch BDS lift with Hankook MT 31s. I drive carefully on and off the road, and have never had an issue with the D35.

[IH8RDS]

Another vote for the 8.25. I ran one for a while. No problems at all and will bolt right in. 31" with powertrax no-slip locker is a good combo. I also did the disk brake conversion from junkyard parts. I use an 8.8 now only because it was a good deal already set up with the proper gears and ARB locker.

[Desert Dan]

If you can upgrade to a Dana 44 go for it.

I ran a D 35 for 145K miles with 31" tires and and ARB lockers in my YJ with no issues. I did upgrage my axle shafts when I added the lockers.
The c-clip is kind of scary.

Go easy on the clutch and stay with 31" tires and you should be fine with moderate use.

[Jeffb79]

Spending money on sprucing up the 35 is just a waste of money.
If you're running locked and smaller than 33" tires, you shouldn't have much problem, especially if the locker is selectable and you're easy on the skinny pedal. Carry extra shafts, they can be had for cheap.

[michaelkkirk]

I vote for upgrading the D35.. least amount of work and no major mods to setup axle.. if you want something that is more durable then get a better/bigger vehicle platform.. (like a truck)

[winkosmosis]

I really wonder what it is people do to break their axle. Are they getting both tires stuck in ruts, since it's an open diff, then flooring it??

[IH8RDS]

I really wonder what it is people do to break their axle. Are they getting both tires stuck in ruts, since it's an open diff, then flooring it??

The 35 usually breaks after you install a locker. It cant handle the load/twisting of two wheels with full traction. Imagine the frustration of upgrading a 35 then it break. I would argue to say a 8.25 is stronger out of the box then a upgraded 35.

[Jeffb79]

The 35 usually breaks after you install a locker. It cant handle the load/twisting of two wheels with full traction. Imagine the frustration of upgrading a 35 then it break. I would argue to say a 8.25 is stronger out of the box then a upgraded 35.

It might be slightly stronger, but I wouldn't consider it strong enough to waste money upgrading to.
It's kind of like having a D44 and doing an 8.8 axle swap. It doesn't really make sense to go through the trouble of the swap for a minimal gain.

IMHO the D35 is ok with tires 33" or less and an open carrier. As long as you're not the guy that smashes the gas pedal down to make it over every obstacle.. you should be fine. You can get replacement shafts for $25 a piece on craigslist. Keep a few in your rig.

If you want to run 33" or larger tires with a locker, upgrade to a new axle. The 8.8 is a great swap. You can find them for cheap, same lug pattern as your 35 and are available with disk brakes.

[winkosmosis]

Everything I've read indicates that the 8.25 is almost as strong as the Dana 44, at least the 29 spline one. So a better analogy might be upgrading the 8.25 to a D44-- waste of time and money.

[BIGdaddy]

What size tires are you running??

Coyote canyon can be done in 2wd so if thats the type of trails you are running, the D35 will hold up no problem.

Everyone bashes the D35 but truthfully its a decent axle if you are not crawling the hammers on 40's. Before I got my LJ, I was running a TJ on 32's. I did just about every trail in big bear, Jtree, Anza etc with no problems. Ran those trails for years and never broke a thing.

If you are really worried then get chromoly shafts or a super 35 kit. Don't believe all the hype on the internet. Is it an ideal axle to have? probably not but its also not as bad as most people would have you believe either.

I'm running 235 75r15's right now.

[VE2WHZ]

i run with 31mtr wrangler

with d35c

but
i'm arrival at this exp. abitibi cayon
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28851

is realy in north on ontario and no garage ...

i will go for swap wiht d44 or 8.8 for make sure min of problem with this

[getlost4x4]

I want a selectable locker. The only one i can find is a ARB 29 spline.

are there any others???

[Root Moose]

Wasn't there an electric locker by Auburn or Eaton for the 8.25? Sorry, don't remember which.

[calamaridog]

Other nice thing about the 8.25 is that you can use Jeep parts to add rear disk brakes (search for how-tos).


The 8.25 on 03+ KJ's has rear disc from the factory, making it even easier.

[BIGdaddy]

found a 8.25 for $150.00...hmmm. maybe so.

[Root Moose]

What vintage? I'd shoot for a disk braked one out of KJ if you can swing it.

[BIGdaddy]

What vintage? I'd shoot for a disk braked one out of KJ if you can swing it.

2000, 29 spline.

is the liberty version a bolt in, like the newer xj ones?

thats a cool idea.

[Root Moose]

Nope, you'd have to at a minimum cut off the coil spring brackets and buckets and weld on some leaf spring perches.

Buy a grinder and "go to town". I have a Bosch 4" grinder I bought in the 1980s and it is just starting to get noisy and may need to be replaced. I think I paid $50 for it then. I think the price today is not that much different.

Buy some perches and take it to some one to get welded. They won't charge that much. I'd guess under $50 at today's rates but it's been a long time since I've paid anyone to weld for me.

Read up on the brake changes. It's not a big deal but you need to know what has to be done before going into it. It's all bolt on stuff pretty much (can't think of anything that isn't besides perches).

[BIGdaddy]

Nope, you'd have to at a minimum cut off the coil spring brackets and buckets and weld on some leaf spring perches.

Buy a grinder and "go to town". I have a Bosch 4" grinder I bought in the 1980s and it is just starting to get noisy and may need to be replaced. I think I paid $50 for it then. I think the price today is not that much different.

Buy some perches and take it to some one to get welded. They won't charge that much. I'd guess under $50 at today's rates but it's been a long time since I've paid anyone to weld for me.

Read up on the brake changes. It's not a big deal but you need to know what has to be done before going into it. It's all bolt on stuff pretty much (can't think of anything that isn't besides perches).

I wish there was an odometer on my hitachi grinder, I've worked in construction (and then architecture) a long time, compadre, so I've got the tools and even a welder, too.

Thing is, I don't have the time or desire to grind on an axle, when I can easily pick up a donor that bolts in. I bet I could put some grand cherokee discs on the rear with little to no fab...:)... as you say.

[Root Moose]

Oh, for certain. I wasn't aware that you were handy - was trying to suggest a "one stop shopping" sort of scenario. :)

Yeah, get an XJ axle, add the discs at you leisure, be happy. :)

[BIGdaddy]

Oh, for certain. I wasn't aware that you were handy - was trying to suggest a "one stop shopping" sort of scenario. :)

Yeah, get an XJ axle, add the discs at you leisure, be happy. :)

LOL, not as handy as some around here...Just basic "cut it apart/stick it together" stuff..haha!!

I'll let you know if I pick up that 8.25...

[IH8RDS]

Brian,

This is what I used when I did it to mine years ago. Picked up all the parts at the pick-n-pull for under $50. Including the proportioning valve.

http://home.swbell.net/rriojas3/reardisk.html

[jefe4x4]

Don't waste your time upgrading a D-35. Do not throw good money after bad. If the axle shaft snaps, which it will if you have a locker and use the rig at all, you are instantly immobilized. Stopped. No go. Trail ornament. The wheel and what's left of the axle will start to migrate out of the housing if you try to motate. It's ugly.
I don't want to count the times we've had to abandon a D-35 clad Jeep out there in the wilds, abort the entire days' jeeping and drive back to civilization to get another shaft. Just to turn around and be fixing it into the night. If the shaft breaks at the splines, it's tough to get the broken stub out of the soup without taking the cover off. Then there's all that oil to deal with. You may need a big magnet to pull the stub out if it's in the housing.
Not my idea of a good time.
Forget incrementalism, and just get a '90's Ford 8.8" complete rr axle assy. from an Explorer. Usually 3.73's, disc brakes and a limited slip.
regards, as always, jefe

[cocco78]

The D35 is fine for under 33" tires and mild wheeling, open diff... No reason to swap it out if thats the case. I ran a few years on a D35 with 33" goodyear mt/r's and a lockrite, and never broke but I was carefull. Do not throw any money at it though, its a waste. If you feel you need to upgrade go with a Ford 8.8, very sturdy axle (you can tell just by picking it up!) I ran a disk brake 8.8 with 4.10's and an aussie locker and beat on it pretty good and never broke it. I ran a SYE and a tom woods cv driveshaft. All it all it was a great combo with the same bolt patern as jeep so you didn't have to change your wheels

[BIGdaddy]

yup, the plan is to just run it now. I found a few locally, but I have other stuff that is actually worn out that I need to address. So far the axle seems to be tip-top, so I'll not address it till it gives me a reason to.

Brian's Dana35...165,000 miles and still going strong. :)

[BIGdaddy]

I've put about 1000 miles on my xj so far, with about 50 or so offroad. My Dana 35 is still going strong.

:elkgrin:

[Booner]

Brian, my 98 ZJ has a D35 with a shade over 165K on it. It has had an Aussie in it for the last 5K, and spends quite a bit of time off road. I belong to a local Jeep club and do as many of the group trail rides as I can. There are quite a few members running D35s, so we carry a few extra axle shafts. Nobody has broken one in recent memory. BTW, I am running Hankook MTs in 32x11.50-15 with a 3" BDS and 1" aluminum spacers. I have a spare D35 (100.00 on C-List) sitting in my garage freshly rebulit to stock specs (no Aussie) in case mine lets go.

[BIGdaddy]

Brian, my 98 ZJ has a D35 with a shade over 165K on it. It has had an Aussie in it for the last 5K, and spends quite a bit of time off road. I belong to a local Jeep club and do as many of the group trail rides as I can. There are quite a few members running D35s, so we carry a few extra axle shafts. Nobody has broken one in recent memory. BTW, I am running Hankook MTs in 32x11.50-15 with a 3" BDS and 1" aluminum spacers. I have a spare D35 (100.00 on C-List) sitting in my garage freshly rebulit to stock specs (no Aussie) in case mine lets go.

awesome to hear. Its an interesting persective to have an axle that holds up under moderate use just fine, but that is cheap enough to be treated as a consumable (If one wishes), where spares are cheap, easy and plentiful.

I should probably go on craigslist soon and find my backup spares. :)

[BIGdaddy]

hmmm...

[BigAl]

I installed an 8.8 in my buddies cherocar this past weekend. I was impressed with the size of the 8.8 , it makes the D35 look spindley. The disc brakes looked beefy and the internal e brake was very clean. The 8.8 was $100. The guy threw in the DS so we had the proper hardware to refit the the driveshaft. It was originally spring under in an explorer, so we had to grind off the perches. We reused the perches, made it spring over and stole the shock mounts from the D35. It turned out to be a very easy swap. We need to buy a new master cylinder but I think they are only $20.

his original D35 failed spectacularly. We removed the cover and the spiders fell out.

[kc0tma]

his original D35 failed spectacularly. We removed the cover and the spiders fell out.

We had that happen in a friends YJ once.....5 hours after he bought it! We were just driving along a paved road on the way out to go wheeling in it for the first time, went over a bump and came to a screeching stop. We jacked it up and checked the wheels to make sure they wouldn't fall off (broken axle shafts) and it looked good. Putting it in 4 wheel drive, we could still move so thats what we did. But every once in a while it would come to a screeching stop again, we'd rock it back and forth and start it up and drive a little more. Later on we took the rear diff cover off and cleaned out the chunks of spider gear. Unfortunately, even though he had just bought it the lemon law didn't apply because it was a consignment and all sales were final, but the dealer did offer to pay for repairs. It was a stock YJ but had high mileage, so it was just wear and tear that busted it in the end. I was just glad it only broke down about a mile or two outside of town instead of way out in the boonies.