2001 4Runner ... let the mods begin

[jeffryscott]

I'm in the process of selling my Suzuki suspension and off-road bits and will soon have some money for 4Runner bits.

First on the list are sliders. Many choices, many price points. Leaning toward Demello Offroad's DIY kit for $199.

What are other folks using, and why did you choose them?


Second on the list (well, probably first as I already have 4wd Tundra springs and am awaiting LC springs for the all OEM lift favored at yotatech) is suspension. Will soon be installing the Tundra front/LC rear to give 2.5 to 3 inches of lift.

Third is a winch bumper. Looking at the TJM T-17, gives a fairly clean look without hoops. What are people's argument for the top hoops on a winch bumper? Aside from the TJM and ARB, I've seen some others out there and am open to options/suggestions.

Then tires: I will probably go 265/75/16 (it has a good set of 265/70/16's now, but want more aggressive/bigger). But 285/75/16 is possible with the lift as would be the ever popular 255/85/16s. To those running the latter two sizes, what, if any, additional lift/trimming was needed? (I've read on yotatech a 1-inch bodylift solves all rubbing issues with those sizes).

Also, related to tire size, is how big a tire can you fit in the factory spare location underneath the truck? That could be the big limiting factor as spare tire carriers/rear bumpers are mighty expensive.

Thanks,

Jeff

[Scott Brady]

First on the list are sliders. Many choices, many price points. Leaning toward Demello Offroad's DIY kit for $199.

Good idea on the DIY kit. That is a great price. My Demello sliders have been excellent.



Second on the list (well, probably first as I already have 4wd Tundra springs and am awaiting LC springs for the all OEM lift favored at yotatech) is suspension. Will soon be installing the Tundra front/LC rear to give 2.5 to 3 inches of lift.

That should be a good combo and easy to replace. Nice find on the rear LC coils.


Third is a winch bumper. Looking at the TJM T-17, gives a fairly clean look without hoops. What are people's argument for the top hoops on a winch bumper? Aside from the TJM and ARB, I've seen some others out there and am open to options/suggestions.

The hoop is to protect the radiator should an animal strike occur.

However, I do like the look of the 17. Nice and clean.


Then tires: I will probably go 265/75/16 (it has a good set of 265/70/16's now, but want more aggressive/bigger). But 285/75/16 is possible with the lift as would be the ever popular 255/85/16s. To those running the latter two sizes, what, if any, additional lift/trimming was needed? (I've read on yotatech a 1-inch bodylift solves all rubbing issues with those sizes).

With the lift and your trail preferences, you should install a 255/85 or 285/75. Of course, I am partial to the 255 as it is easier to fit and even taller than the 285. Either will hurt on the highway without a gearing change, though if you keep the load light, it should not be too bad. Install a trans. cooler.


Also, related to tire size, is how big a tire can you fit in the factory spare location underneath the truck? That could be the big limiting factor as spare tire carriers/rear bumpers are mighty expensive.

Not sure the answer to this, though I bet the 255 or 285 will fit.

[xcmountain80]

I'm in the process of selling my Suzuki suspension and off-road bits and will soon have some money for 4Runner bits.

First on the list are sliders. Many choices, many price points. Leaning toward Demello Offroad's DIY kit for $199.

What are other folks using, and why did you choose them?


Second on the list (well, probably first as I already have 4wd Tundra springs and am awaiting LC springs for the all OEM lift favored at yotatech) is suspension. Will soon be installing the Tundra front/LC rear to give 2.5 to 3 inches of lift.

Third is a winch bumper. Looking at the TJM T-17, gives a fairly clean look without hoops. What are people's argument for the top hoops on a winch bumper? Aside from the TJM and ARB, I've seen some others out there and am open to options/suggestions.

Then tires: I will probably go 265/75/16 (it has a good set of 265/70/16's now, but want more aggressive/bigger). But 285/75/16 is possible with the lift as would be the ever popular 255/85/16s. To those running the latter two sizes, what, if any, additional lift/trimming was needed? (I've read on yotatech a 1-inch bodylift solves all rubbing issues with those sizes).

Also, related to tire size, is how big a tire can you fit in the factory spare location underneath the truck? That could be the big limiting factor as spare tire carriers/rear bumpers are mighty expensive.

Thanks,

Jeff


Let me know if you have any question, it wasnt long ago but I have been through all of this before and might be able to save you some trouble.

Aaron

[offroad_nomad]

Jeff,

You can fit a 33" tire hanging at the stock location, but there's a catch. Do you have the tow bar? If so, you will have to air down the spare to make it fit. I removed my tow bar years ago and with it gone you can mount an inflated 33" tire with no problems. I've currently storing a spare 285/75/16 Goodyear MTR.

The one thing I'm disappointed about my '01 4Runner is the lack of a rear E-Locker. One option is to buy the rear diff of an older 4R (such as a 1998 model) with the rear E-Locker installed and swap out your existing rear diff. The only other thing you would have to do is wire it.

My sliders are from Badland Bumpers. (http://www.badlandbumpers.com/index_files/page0008.htm) I don't think Demello's 4R sliders were around when I got mine.

If you're going to install the Tundra/LC suspension, I don't think you'll have to worry about trimming anything. I had Racerunner Swayaway Adjustable Coilovers with my 285 MTRs and no rubbing. But if you retain your stock front bumber with your new suspension and tires, there may be some minor trimming to avoid possible rubbing.

If you haven't already found YotaTech (http://www.yotatech.com/), check out the site. It has a wealth of Toyota and particularly 4Runner-related technical and mod information. Oops, my bad, I see you've already mentioned YT.

Don't hesitate to ask if you have any additional questions. My wife finally stopped bugging me about what i spend on my 4R shortly after to stopped complaining on all the shoes and clothes she buys.

[xcmountain80]

I have a 285 and a tow hitch no problems here. Obviously the AT doesnt quite have the tread height you MT does. As far as trimming is concerned make certain to look at the tire manufacturers spec sheet for the real numbers on the tires. Just because it says 285/75/16 doesnt always mean it take for instance.
BFG AT 285/75/16 = overall dia. 32.8 tread width NA
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P7290286.jpg
Interco SSR 285/75/16 = overall dia. 33.9 tread width 9.4
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P2210209.jpg
Coop STT 285/75/16 = overall dia. 33.1 tread width 8.85
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P1011152.jpg

I ended up using 1" wheel adapters on mine as apposed to purchasing shaved upper a-arms, this resolved the to close to call clearance issues I was having with the SSR's and MT's.

Aaron

[Ric]

Jeff,
heres my list of requimendations:

Sliders: http://www.stubbswelding.com/

Lift: http://www.toyteclifts.com/

Bodylift: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml

Under Armor : http://www.budbuilt.com/new/

Custom Fab work: http://www.armorology.com/

Custom Body or electrical: http://www.irbisoffroad.com/

Im a real "customer service" guy, and will ony deal with a few select business. there are companies out there, that do have better prices, but in the end, you get what you pay for. feel free to PM me with any questions, of if i can help you in any way. I can save ya a few bucks with a few of the business listed.
Heres a pic of where Im at now:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/Ric4rnr/Loch%20Lomond/ToyTec/IMG_2762.jpg

[Mlachica]

We're all anxiously awaiting your buildup, and a new avatar!

[jeffryscott]

Am I correct in thinking that pretty much any of the 95.5 to 04 Tacoma front bumpers will fit the 4Runner?

Thanks,

Jeff

[jeffryscott]

Have a TJM-17 ordered and rock sliders from stubbswelding. Can't wait for their arrival.:D

[Scott Brady]

:bowdown: Awesome Jeff!

I can't wait for pictures

Then it is time for some adventure :wings:

[kcowyo]

Nice Jeff!

I'll look forward to seeing the TJM on your 4Runner and hearing your impressions. The T17 is the only mass produced bumper still available for a T100. However Steve Shaffer at Sonoran Steel (http://www.sonoransteel.com/)does custom grill hoops for the T17, and has done a ton of other great mods on the 3rd Gen Runners.

He may be the most knowledgable guy on the subject and he's in Tempe. My understanding from a write up he received in an early edition of 4WDToyota Owner is that several engineers from Toyota came to visit Steve and see what he'd done with his 4Runner. I've traded emails with him, seems like a good guy. I should've sent you a link to his site sooner, if you haven't already found it.

Regarding tire size, I know Darren runs 285's with 2.5 inches of lift on his '02 4Runner and they look awesome, really nice fit and stance with good ground clearence but I'm not sure what his exact suspension set up is these days....? You may be able to fit a 285 underneath just by hammering back the side rails of your spare carrier. Lots of guys do that although your exhaust pipe may be in the way for this to work, mine is.

Glad to see this is all moving right along for you. Nice new avatar too!

[jeffryscott]

The TJM17 should be a nice compromise between cost, weight and function. At 399 plus 95 shipping it is priced right, and without the hoops the weight will be slightly less and it will provide much better approach angles than the factory setup.

It will be nice to have a clean appearance versus the, how should I say, "redneck" looks of the Zuk.

I have seen Steve's site and plan to probably get some parts from him at some point, but want to get tthe sliders and bumper done first.

And as far as tires go, I think I will initially go with 265/75/16 Dunlop MTs, strictly because a friend has an almost new set of 5 he was given for production of a video that I can get for less than $400. Eventually, I will probably go 255/85/16, but until I get the suspension lift sorted out the 265's will be a nice compromise, especially for the price.

I'm still sorting out what to do about the suspension, and then I want to build a storage box setup for the back end. My wife has time off during the holidays (teachers are so lucky) so I hope to complete a lot of this stuff then.

In the meantime, I'm itching to get out on the trail.

[Mlachica]

Sweeet Jeff! Nice avatar too!

I'll be patiently waiting for pictures :ylsmoke:

[Bighead]

What size wheels will you be running? With the Tundra/LC lift, I had minimal rubbing at full stuff with OEM 16x7s and 285/75s. Once I moved to Mickey Thompson 16x8s (3.5" BS), the pinch weld became a factor. After some trimming, the rubbing was minimized. I have since moved to 315/75s on the same wheels and added a 1.5" BL. Now that created a lot of work in the front wheel well. I guess the point is, with 285/75s, the Tundra front end will work...just expect to do a little work in there for clearance.

[jeffryscott]

Well, thanks to the graciousness and friendship of Goodtimes, I have Stubbs sliders installed and my TJM t17, albeit winchless at the moment (how was I to know I needed a winch plate ...:smilies27

We, meaning 99-percent him, installed the stuff this morning then I took the girls for a jaunt to Redington to see the snow. Left to do are the Tundra front springs, OME N86 shocks in rear and either 2-inch springs or spacers (whatever I can find cheap), tires (probably 265/75/16 Dunlop MT) and storage in the rear ...

Here are a few pics:

[goodtimes]

Wow, there was that much snow out there??? Maybe I should re-think taking the beemer out there tomorrow to see if the FS installed the signs that they were supposed to......

The Stubbs sliders are pretty nice, with one exception. One of the middle legs appears to have been cut a little to long. This left us with a 1/8" gap between the frame and the scab plate on one end. We ended up adding a 1/8" spacer between the scab plate and the frame to close this gap. This was the only problem with them. They fit the vehicle very well, both physically and asthetically.

The TJM bumper is pretty light, not what you would want if you were doing alot of really difficult (rock crawling) trails, but a major improvement from the OEM stuff. For anything other than rock crawling, I think it is a nice bumper ... so it should fit Jeffs needs very well. It really opened up the front end, particularly directly in front of the tires where you need it the most. All the brackets were spot on, with not one hole or slot needing to be opened up to make everything line up properly. Install was very simple, to the point, and quick. The only thing I would change is the turn signal wiring. TJM includes those stupid blue wire taps (scotch-locks), which we did not use. We opted for water tight spade terminals because I like scotch-locks about as well as I like chrome. The only other issue is the placement of the access hole for the winch clutch lever....it is partially blocked by the OEM grill. This is a known issue with several options to fix it. We'll have to wait and see which one Jeff decides he wants to do.

[Ric]

either 2-inch springs or spacers (whatever I can find cheap), check on yotatech.com Im sure someone was selling a used set of spacers, or you can a set of new spacers (http://www.toyteclifts.com/96024runnercart.html#96024runnerrearliftopts) for about $120

[BogusBlake]

That is a lot of snow for Reddington!

I'm diggin' that bumper.

[datrupr]

Jeff, love the bumper and sliders. The 4runner is looking very good!

[kcowyo]

:iagree: :beer:

[Mlachica]

Looking Good!

[erin]

:coffee:
Looks great Jeff. I can't believe how much snow was out there also.

[p1michaud]

The TJM17 should be a nice compromise between cost, weight and function. At 399 plus 95 shipping it is priced right, and without the hoops the weight will be slightly less and it will provide much better approach angles than the factory setup.

It will be nice to have a clean appearance versus the, how should I say, "redneck" looks of the Zuk.

I've owned a TJM T-17 bumper for about 2 years now. As you mentionned it's and excellent compromize between cost, weight and function. Here is a pic of it on my truck.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/p1michaud/Tacoma/TJM_T-17.jpg

I'm also runing a Warn M8000 with synthetic line and fairlead based on the work that Scott had done here: An M8000 Warn weighing less than 50lbs. (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21)

It's a very good bumper and winch combo and works well for my application. You will be satisfied with your decision.
Cheer :beer:,
P

[BogusBlake]

Hey, are those TJM bumpers airbag compatible like the ARB's?

[jeffryscott]

It says it hasn't been tested for compliance, but looking at the mounting and everything it will certainly give (crush zone) before tweaking the frame and the airbags would deploy as normal (my totally uneducated guesstimate).

[jeffryscott]

I've owned a TJM T-17 bumper for about 2 years now. As you mentionned it's and excellent compromize between cost, weight and function. Here is a pic of it on my truck.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/p1michaud/Tacoma/TJM_T-17.jpg

I'm also runing a Warn M8000 with synthetic line and fairlead based on the work that Scott had done here: An M8000 Warn weighing less than 50lbs. (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21)

It's a very good bumper and winch combo and works well for my application. You will be satisfied with your decision.
Cheer :beer:,
P

Looks good, I'll also be running the sub-50pound M8000 once I get the winch plate. Did your bumper come with it or did you buy it seperately?

[p1michaud]

Looks good, I'll also be running the sub-50pound M8000 once I get the winch plate. Did your bumper come with it or did you buy it seperately?

I don't have a winch plate. The winch is bolted directly to the bumper. I'll have to dig up my old e-mails, but I had asked TJM about air bag compatability for the TJM T-17 for the 98-00 Tacoma and they had not tested it at that time. I was also under the understanding that this bumper did not require a winch plate at the time of purchase. You have me thinking now, I'll have to go see. Do you have pics of said winch plate?

Cheers :beer:,
P

Edit: Looking at the TJM USA (http://www.tjmbullbars.com/products.htm) site, they don't list a winch frame for my application but they do for yours. I guess that solves that mystery!

Edit part deux: For others considering this option, you can cut out the TJM supplied turn signal markers to fit the Toyota factory bulb and holder. I did this to allow for easier return to stock and avoid cutting the factory wires. I can find additional info if anyone is interested.

[jeffryscott]

Drawers are functional!

I have made a relatively simple storage system for the back end - 39-inch square plywood, think 1/2-inch, and two drawers. I made drawer slides using wood - not nearly as nice as roller-bearings, but 1x2 is cheaper. My passenger side drawer is much better than the drivers side (learning curve) and I will probably remake the driver's side.

I will also finish the platform and drawers - probably a somewhat matching carpet for the top and I may herculine the drawers, not sure yet.

Currently, one drawer is for off-road/recovery items, and the other drawer will be for gear: cameras, inclement weather clothing, etc ...

Anyway, on to a few pics:

[erin]

Wow, you are really coming along, looks great! One thing I would add to the inside of the drawers and box corners are small corner reenforcements with screws. I had a wood type chuck box in my old rig, and the humidity in the summer played hell on it. I was constantly fighting with swelling, and these helped alot.

[jeffryscott]

Wow, you are really coming along, looks great! One thing I would add to the inside of the drawers and box corners are small corner reenforcements with screws. I had a wood type chuck box in my old rig, and the humidity in the summer played hell on it. I was constantly fighting with swelling, and these helped alot.

Thanks Erin, great advice. I was concerned about swelling, etc ... Eventually, I'll probably go ahead and spring for drawer rails, which I think would also help with the stability.

[BogusBlake]

Sweet!

How about a picture of your wooden drawer slide mechanism?

[jeffryscott]

Sweet!

How about a picture of your wooden drawer slide mechanism?


It isn't much, 1x2 on the drawer bottom, one offset to put pressure on the 1x2 support I have on the box, and the other one sits flush against the side. I'll snap a pic tomorrow. Sounds fancier than it is though.

Not really supportive, but it keeps the side to side movement down. We'll see how it works when loaded and over time ...

[Mlachica]

The drawers look great Jeff! Do you plan on gluing the carpet on or just stapling? How much time did this take you? You'll have to give us the details :lurk:

If you haven't heard I'm planning on selling my truck and getting an 80 series and I'm having fun brainstorming for the drawers/table/fridge slide in the back.

[LexusAllTerrain]

The drawers look great Jeff! Do you plan on gluing the carpet on or just stapling? How much time did this take you? You'll have to give us the details :lurk:

If you haven't heard I'm planning on selling my truck and getting an 80 series and I'm having fun brainstorming for the drawers/table/fridge slide in the back.

Wow! why do you want to sell your truck, it looks very nice!

[articulate]

Drawers are functional!

I have made a relatively simple storage system for the back end - 39-inch square plywood, think 1/2-inch, and two drawers. I made drawer slides using wood - not nearly as nice as roller-bearings, but 1x2 is cheaper. My passenger side drawer is much better than the drivers side (learning curve) and I will probably remake the driver's side.

Anyway, on to a few pics:
Mmmm, yeah the wood will "fluctuate" a little with the weather. If you find that the drawers "stick" during humid or rainy times, it's the wood fibers expanding to match the climate. Otherwise, you can also put a layer of pastewax on the contacting surfaces to help them slide. It's an antique furniture restoration "trick."

I know you've made the carcass and drawers already, but you could have also used a little strip of high-density polyethelene (plastic-like stuff) on the sliding surfaces. That would make the drawers slide nicely.

Enough of that. You did a nice job, and I like the handles. :punk03:

[Scott Brady]

If you haven't heard I'm planning on selling my truck and getting an 80 series and I'm having fun brainstorming for the drawers/table/fridge slide in the back.

:smileeek:

[jeffryscott]

The drawers look great Jeff! Do you plan on gluing the carpet on or just stapling? How much time did this take you? You'll have to give us the details :lurk:

If you haven't heard I'm planning on selling my truck and getting an 80 series and I'm having fun brainstorming for the drawers/table/fridge slide in the back.

If you do go with an 80, there are pre-built solutions which are very nice, as well as many more do-it-yourself creations that I've seen. I have looked at some of those to get ideas for this one. I did go as simple and inexpensive as I could for now ...

The storage system is quite simple: two 39-inch square pieces of plywood (ripped at Home Depot) and the height is nine inches (leftover from the 39-inch rip). Thirty nine is perfectly snug between the wheel wells and at 9 inches tall, perfect length front to back.

I put one rib down the middle for support then built the two drawers. Very simple, but it turned out fairly nice. Each iteration of rear storage gets better: first the Land Rover was primitive, the Suzuki was a bit nicer with the built in fridge, but certainly locked storage space and now this one.

As for carpet, I will probably screw it in on the sides. I may just herculine the drawers and leave the box raw, but don't know.

Time wasn't really calculated. Maybe 8 to 10 hours at this point. I'm not a woodworker and I tend to make things up as I go along (which is why drawer B is much better than drawer A), but that is also how I learn, trial and error. Without a lot of experience, I need to kind of see how the pieces fall into place.

I still plan to put d-rings down on top as tie-downs, and plan to secure the whole box to the back end to the factory tie-downs. I want to get a cargo net (should have one floating around in the shed) for loading things up and I should be good to go. This would be easy enough to adapt to a sleeping platform if I desired, but until kids are out of car seats, it doesn't make any sense.

So far I am happy with the results and it sure cleans up the rear end of clutter. Once I actually spend more time organizing things I think it will be very functional.

[FourByLand]

Jeff,

You are putting together a well thought out project...

:lurk:

[jeffryscott]

Had a few hours this last week and finally put on my OME N86 shocks to replace the original factory Tokico's.

Ride is a bit softer than I expected, but the shocks themselves have about 3-inches of longer travel which will be a huge benefit offroad. These will soon be paired with a set of 891 springs to provide approximately 2.5 inches of lift in the rear (buying a slightly used pair, should get them this week) and my Tundra coilovers which I still need to install.

Did take it on an easy trail yesterday and offroad the ride is improved and that extra bit of travel makes a big difference. Once I get all the suspension components on, I'll be ready for those 255/85/16 tires ...

Here's a pic of the OME vs. OEM rear shock:

[jeffryscott]

This has been a good week of work on the truck:

Herculined the rear drawer system Monday and Tuesday.

Today, Tundra front coils/struts and OME 891s (Thanks Goodtimes) and fitted the 255/85/16 BFG MT's.

The suspension lift gave me approximately 3-inches of lift, and the tires add another inch or two of height (stockers are 265/70/16).Front Tundra shocks are approximately 1.5 inches longer and the springs gave about 3-inches of lift over stock, so I should have more travel with the IFS. The CV angles look great and to level out the vehicle I will probably add a 3/8-inch spacer.

First impressions: the ride is great. Swallows speed humps well, and an extremely limited test on dirt gave me a really good impression. Brian and I took it on a dirt patch near his home - there is slight rubbing of front and rear tires at compression or full turn, but not too much to worry about. The more agresive stance and tires certainly gives me greater confidence in the offroad prowess of this truck.

Checking the speedometer against the GPS finds it is slightly slow (whereas before it was about 4-percent fast before) Now it reads approximately 1-2 percent slow from the GPS.

I can't say I notice too much difference with acceleration (I thought I would) but do notice a difference braking - the bigger, heavier tires take a lot more to stop.

I am planning to hit a trail Sunday, so pics of the new and improved 4Runner will follow.

Meanwhile, here is the mostly completed rear storage system, the stock vs. Tundra front shock/strut, one side lifted vs. stock (no jacks, just suspension), and a bit of articulation sans swaybar:

[SOAZ]

Looks great! I love my runner too!
Drawers are really cool. I maxed out my carpentry skills doing what I did. I would have loved to have made them like yours!
(I would cute the lower black part off of the rear mud flaps. Flyingwil pointed out to me on a trail that everytime I went down a rock they would fold up. All of this yanking cause one of my boles holding the main plastic mud flap to pull loose. I cut the flap up to the painted part and now no problems.)

4Runner looks great. WHATS NEXT for it?!? :Mechanic:

[p1michaud]

The suspension lift gave me approximately 3-inches of lift, and the tires add another inch or two of height (stockers are 265/70/16).Front Tundra shocks are approximately 1.5 inches longer and the springs gave about 3-inches of lift over stock, so I should have more travel with the IFS. The CV angles look great and to level out the vehicle I will probably add a 3/8-inch spacer.

Wow, it's looking great! :bowdown:
I'm currious to hear how the tundra lift holds up for you. I believe you have a TJM with Warn M8000 up front correct?
I'm going to be forced to go with coilovers due to all the additional weight (TJM T-17, Warn M8000, dual battery, 1/2 the weight of sliders, 100 lbs of skid plate, etc...). I originally had 1.75" of lift with a set of OME 881 but now I'm back to stock height due to the additional weight.

Cheers :beer:,
P

[xcmountain80]

Wow, it's looking great! :bowdown:
I'm currious to hear how the tundra lift holds up for you. I believe you have a TJM with Warn M8000 up front correct?
I'm going to be forced to go with coilovers due to all the additional weight (TJM T-17, Warn M8000, dual battery, 1/2 the weight of sliders, 100 lbs of skid plate, etc...). I originally had 1.75" of lift with a set of OME 881 but now I'm back to stock height due to the additional weight.

Cheers :beer:,
P

Coilovers? I run the tundra coils and probably have the heaviest or one of them. Tjm-17, 9k T-max winch, Budbuilt full skids.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4201869.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4201868.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4201871.jpg

Aaron

[jeffryscott]

Coilovers? I run the tundra coils and probably have the heaviest or one of them. Tjm-17, 9k T-max winch, Budbuilt full skids.
Aaron

Aaron,

Are you running any spacers with the Tundras? What kind if you do?

I've got quite a rake to my vehicle so need to add front spacers to help even it out. Feel like I'm in a 70s muscle car, until I step on the gas.;)

BTW, those budbuilts look tough - they are on my list of things I would like to do.

[jeffryscott]

Looks great! I love my runner too!
Drawers are really cool. I maxed out my carpentry skills doing what I did. I would have loved to have made them like yours!
(I would cute the lower black part off of the rear mud flaps. Flyingwil pointed out to me on a trail that everytime I went down a rock they would fold up. All of this yanking cause one of my boles holding the main plastic mud flap to pull loose. I cut the flap up to the painted part and now no problems.)

4Runner looks great. WHATS NEXT for it?!? :Mechanic:

Next will be to even out the rake (adding a spacer up front), get the winch up and running, clean up the rat's nest of wiring I've got going on under the hood with a fuse block ... and at some point I'd like to add a fridge (my drawer fridge for the Suzuki just doesn't fit in this), roof rack and another roof-top-tent (of better quality).

Also need to get my HAM license (I've passed the practice tests, now to actually take the real one).

[neliconcept]

Next will be to even out the rake (adding a spacer up front), get the winch up and running, clean up the rat's nest of wiring I've got going on under the hood with a fuse block ... and at some point I'd like to add a fridge (my drawer fridge for the Suzuki just doesn't fit in this), roof rack and another roof-top-tent (of better quality).

Also need to get my HAM license (I've passed the practice tests, now to actually take the real one).

one spacer is enough to even out the ome 891s, i ran that setup with one spacer, pretty much perfectly even front and rear, then i added another set of spacers and the front was taller, now that I have LCs its at a rake again but a perfectly balanced rake and not overly gay. looks good imo with a little rake, only .5 inchs though

[xcmountain80]

Aaron,

Are you running any spacers with the Tundras? What kind if you do?

I've got quite a rake to my vehicle so need to add front spacers to help even it out. Feel like I'm in a 70s muscle car, until I step on the gas.;)

BTW, those budbuilts look tough - they are on my list of things I would like to do.

I use the bamachem spacers from Sonoran Steel, In his kits he sells 1 set but I knew in advanced to be level I would need 2 sets. I also have the diff drop spacers, and limit straps just in case the cv angle gets to great. Mine leveled out on 33.9" X 11.4 " Interco SSR's.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P2250059.jpg
As far as the bud skids go holy crap they are bullet proof im sure.

[jeffryscott]

Went on the trail today. All I can say is WOW. What a difference the lift and tires made. A Rover friend, Mike, and I ran a local trail called Chimney Rock - an easy to moderate trail with a few twisty sections to test articulation, some loose, rough hill climbs to test TRAC and lots of rocks to test the ride quality.

First things first though - when you make a plan and say meet at the Circle K at 8 a.m., know which Circle K. We ended up at Circle K's 45-minutes apart, each thinking we were doing a different trail.

After our late rendezvous, we headed up Redington. The ride quality of the Tundra/OME combo on the road was an improvement over stock, and off-road it is even that much better. The washboard road to the trailhead was like driving on silk - super smooth. The beefier suspension soaks up everything (and BFG MT tires aired down to 17 also help).

At the trailhead I shifted into 4-Lo, activated the diff-lock (or so I thought) and we went on our merry way. The first test came with an optional challenging line to test the flex and traction control. The flex with the longer shocks/springs and no rear sway bar is tremendous. I was spinning though (at one point, two wheels were off the ground) and we were a bit confounded (at least we were later when I discovered I had NOT put the diff lock on, so I was going through this spot open ...) I still got through, albeit not a walk in the park as it would have been with the diff locked, but the TRAC system still kicked in and got me through - just not as effectively.

The aforementioned later is when I figured out the center diff was unlocked after going up a loose. rutted, axel-twisting slope and slipping a fair amount. After that discovery, everything was a walk in the park.

Any hesitations or doubts I had about the 4Runner being a great trail rig compared to the super-Zuk are now just a silly thought. The addition of the suspension lift and the 255/85/16 tires transformed her into a beast. I'm pleased.:ylsmoke:

[xcmountain80]

I assume you have the vsc system on your to? I did the mod with a momentary switch so I could disable this little monster when I needed to. Like wet grass side of road, you will get stuck if the ground is soft.

Aaron

[kcowyo]

I've been waiting for full shots of the 4Runner with the TJM and new tires and it was well worth it. Looks capable and comfortable.

Very nice work and nice looking ride Jeff - :beer: :beer: :beer:

Sounds like you're really happy with your decision to go with the Runner over the Zuk. How does your 4 legged co-pilot enjoy the trail?

[Gear]

Jeff,

Just read thru the build. The 4runner is looking great. I like the black theme going on.:)

[jeffryscott]

Sounds like you're really happy with your decision to go with the Runner over the Zuk. How does your 4 legged co-pilot enjoy the trail?

Oh yes, I'm happy. Roomy, comfortable, and now that I've got it figured out, infinitely more capable and in the long run, I believe a much better value (reliability, long-lived) and gas mileage is only 2-3 mpg less - a worthwhile tradeoff.

Biscuit the dog is getting better - he didn't throw up or pee in the truck this outing and he got to run around with some friends. I'm getting to trust him not running off, but not 100 percent yet.

[p1michaud]

Coilovers? I run the tundra coils and probably have the heaviest or one of them. Tjm-17, 9k T-max winch, Budbuilt full skids.

Thanks for the pictures and info. The only difference between our vehicles (other than 4Runner vs. Tacoma) is my additional battery up front.

Just for reference, my truck is at approx. 4850 lbs with no passenger and no food or camping gear (full tank of fuel, tools, recovery items, armor, etc...). How much lift do you have in the front and how heavy is your 4Runner?

I said coilovers because I'm on my 4th version of front suspension so this time I'm going all out or nothing (Donahoe Coilovers). I don't want to have to re-do the suspension after this round!

Cheers,
P

[xcmountain80]

Thanks for the pictures and info. The only difference between our vehicles (other than 4Runner vs. Tacoma) is my additional battery up front.

Just for reference, my truck is at approx. 4850 lbs with no passenger and no food or camping gear (full tank of fuel, tools, recovery items, armor, etc...). How much lift do you have in the front and how heavy is your 4Runner?

I said coilovers because I'm on my 4th version of front suspension so this time I'm going all out or nothing (Donahoe Coilovers). I don't want to have to re-do the suspension after this round!

Cheers,
P


Listed 4Runner
Curb Weight: 4070 lbs.
Gross Weight: 5250 lbs
Listed Tacoma ext cab 4WD
Curb Weight: 3470 lbs.
Gross Weight: 5100 lbs.

Now I take that and add the front bumper, winch, 285 spare, lift kit, yakima cross bars, hi-lift, air compressor, Yellow top Batt., Light dont count they only add 2lbs. and depending on the day 295 nitto's or 285 cooper stt's there is a 7lb. difference in the tires. Add the budbuilt skid and who knows? I have no idea how much she weighs but its a good bid. Then you take into account if im camping 85lbs for the hannibal roof tent and 400lbs +/- 50lbs cargo. I do also always carry 65lbs of tools and 80lbs of recovery gear. My god I need to not carry so much crap! I have 3" of lift in the front and had 3.75" in the rear but the coils have settled and now are around 3.25"-3.5". I do need to reorder rear springs, thanks for reminding me. I did as much research as is humanly possible prior to my lift and went from there.

Aaron

[Wanderlusty]

I've been waiting for full shots of the 4Runner with the TJM and new tires and it was well worth it. Looks capable and comfortable.

Very nice work and nice looking ride Jeff - :beer: :beer: :beer:



Me too. Yep, yep and yep.

While the 'Zuk made for a unique rig, something a little different than anyone else, what you have done with your 'Runner is a sweet set up. Glad to finally see it in all it's glory.

[erin]

It was definitely cool to see it in person this weekend, it has really turned out nice.

[xcmountain80]

I don't have a winch plate. The winch is bolted directly to the bumper. I'll have to dig up my old e-mails, but I had asked TJM about air bag compatability for the TJM T-17 for the 98-00 Tacoma and they had not tested it at that time. I was also under the understanding that this bumper did not require a winch plate at the time of purchase. You have me thinking now, I'll have to go see. Do you have pics of said winch plate?

Cheers :beer:,
P

Edit: Looking at the TJM USA (http://www.tjmbullbars.com/products.htm) site, they don't list a winch frame for my application but they do for yours. I guess that solves that mystery!

Edit part deux: For others considering this option, you can cut out the TJM supplied turn signal markers to fit the Toyota factory bulb and holder. I did this to allow for easier return to stock and avoid cutting the factory wires. I can find additional info if anyone is interested.


You wont need a winch plate because we all have the steel bumpers. The only one they make that ruquires said plate is the AL line. That being said your winch mounts feet 1st toward the front. As far as AIRBAG comp. I know dont I did hit a Corolla 2 wks after I installed the bumper damaged a lightforce housing and tweaked my euro plate other than that no damage and no airbag on a 55mph road with 3 sec. warning to decell to maybe 35ish before impact maybe slower but there was no time to stop. The bumper is sturdy no doubt I though it was alittle thin compared to my brothers bentup tacoma bumper but it works just fine.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/Found%20Stuff/tacoma3501.jpg
I cut my wires far enough back so someone who purchased my used bumper could use it. I installed 2 way connector, like on trailer connections but 2 instead of 4, for all my hookups making removal of the bumper to work on the vehicle easier. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P8130332.jpg

Aaron

[jeffryscott]

Here are a few from a little earlier today - got a bit of time to go to some dirt up Redington Road just for some poseur shots ... still need to get on a proper trail.

I added spacers to the front Tundra setup to level the truck out. Looks much more proper to me, and feels good in the dirt and on the road. The Tundra coils/struts I had didn't really give any lift (maybe half an inch) so I'm guessing the source I got them from (used) had the wrong specs for them. But, the one question I do have is whether my CV angles (first picture) are OK. Opinions? I might get a diff drop to help ease it a bit, but don't know if that is necessary.

[p1michaud]

You wont need a winch plate because we all have the steel bumpers....

I cut my wires far enough back so someone who purchased my used bumper could use it. I installed 2 way connector, like on trailer connections but 2 instead of 4, for all my hookups making removal of the bumper to work on the vehicle easier.

Aaron

Aaron,
Thanks for clarifying the winch plate question. Makes sense now. Clean solution for your lighting connections. I just have a real issue with cutting wires and soldering for my climate. It's been my experience that if you don't do it correctly it leads to issues (i.e. wire corrode and don't work properly). I always avoid cutting into factory wiring for that reason however if I don't have a choice, it take the time to do a proper soldered connection then double heat shrink the connection using sealed heat shrink (not sure what the technical name for this heat shrink tubing but it's made by Raychem and it has a heat activated glue/sealer inside that seals up against the wires extemely well).

Cheers,
P

[p1michaud]

Here are a few from a little earlier today - got a bit of time to go to some dirt up Redington Road just for some poseur shots ... still need to get on a proper trail.

Looking very nice!
How do you like the ride with the new suspension set up?
Cheers :beer:,
P

[erin]

Looks good Jeff, no more tail high, fits it better. I think your cv's look fine, about like mine, and I'm gonna turn me preload up to get back my sag in front from added weight. I have looked at a lot of factory trucks w/ the spacer lift, and the lower control arm/cv angles seem to be much greater then mine, so it seems they can go more then you hink just by looking. It would be interesting to know what the angle needs to stay within to be in tolerance though, maybe someone with that info could post up.

[jeffryscott]

Looking very nice!
How do you like the ride with the new suspension set up?
Cheers :beer:,
P

The ride is awesome.:wings: The Tundra/OME 891 setup is a great combo. Some people complain the 891 is too harsh. I don't think so. It is great on washboards, speedbumps and the rocks and for daily driving I think they are just right.

[jeffryscott]

Looks good Jeff, no more tail high, fits it better. I think your cv's look fine, about like mine, and I'm gonna turn me preload up to get back my sag in front from added weight. I have looked at a lot of factory trucks w/ the spacer lift, and the lower control arm/cv angles seem to be much greater then mine, so it seems they can go more then you hink just by looking. It would be interesting to know what the angle needs to stay within to be in tolerance though, maybe someone with that info could post up.

Glad to hear about the CVs, since you have a pretty common setup I won't worry.

[FourByLand]

Jeff,

WOW, what a transformation!

I love the blackout look... did you keep your stock rims?

[Redline]

A very nice 3rd Gen 4Runner you have there. It's very noticeable how much taller the 3rd Gen 4Runners are compared to the 4th generation rigs. I think my 4th Gen with OME and 255s is not lots taller than a no-lift 3rd Gen with oversized tires.

Obviously there are pros and cons to each, but the height and clearance looks good and is obviously a big advantage on more difficult trails.

Looks like there will be at least a few Runners waving the 4Runner flag at this years ExPo Trophy :-)

[jeffryscott]

Not too many updates, but the big one to report is I just ordered a 52-quart Waeco fridge/freezer - found it for $437 with free shipping. :wings: Looks like I got the last one, otherwise I was going to post the link for others. I had the 39-quart and it was a bit small for an extended trip (beef and beer take up space :cow: :beer: :shakin: ) and with the family it was way too small.

I recently went on one trip with the family and resorted to a cooler (after I sold the little fridge) and it reminded me that coolers suck (once you have a fridge, it is hard to regress).

This will be a nice addition and it should be here in time for a January trip I'm planning.

[FourByLand]

Congrat's!!!

Where did you find it?

:)

[jeffryscott]

Congrat's!!!

Where did you find it?

:)

AJ Prindle ... hopefully it comes through, the 52 should be a perfect size for the family.

[FourByLand]

I know the Sidekick was a real trooper but I am glad you got something more suitable for you and the girls!

Post some pics when you get it Jeff!

[jeffryscott]

Got the fridge today, brand spanking new, for $437 with shipping. WhoooHoooo, 52 quarts of chilled fun. For the price, I couldn't be happier. Have it temporarily installed, put the handles on and plugged it in to get it cooled down. It even has a built in light. High class stuff.

Since it is a Waeco, I don't know of any Engel-like slider things, so I'm going to make a set as it sits too high on my storage box to open inside the truck. I've got a plan, just need to implement it, sometime soon.

The truck gets better all the time - going on a trip in two weeks to either the Grand Canyon or Camino del Diablo - either place will require cold beer for the end of the trail, and I'll have it now - with room for a steak or two.:wings:

[xcmountain80]

I built my own slide for my engel but the same design could be used for any fridge.
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/4runner-gets-engel-45-a-117065/


Aaron

[4Rescue]

Great looking truck mate, super clean and functional looking. I love those 3rd gen's espescialy when they don't have all the chrome'd bits, I'm loving the blackout/color matching.

Cheers

[jeffryscott]

I built my own slide for my engel but the same design could be used for any fridge.
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/4runner-gets-engel-45-a-117065/


Aaron

Thanks Aaron, I now remember your build, and this is exactly what I need.

I stopped by Lowes (before I saw this) and picked up a pair of the HD slides like you mentioned. I was going to use 2x2 and plywood, but the metal will be much more robust. Glad I didn't get any further today than buying the slides.

Thanks.

[jeffryscott]

Great looking truck mate, super clean and functional looking. I love those 3rd gen's espescialy when they don't have all the chrome'd bits, I'm loving the blackout/color matching.

Cheers

Thanks! It's coming together. Once I get the fridge install done, I'll get some pics of the rear cargo area - lots of changes back there from stock. (1st gen rollbar, etc ... )

[jeffryscott]

Well, after taking bits off to sell (winch and TJM bumper, OME suspension, rear storage, 255/85/16 MT's etc .... with the idea of selling the truck while I'm in school, things didn't work out with selling the truck (but school is) so, I am slowly rebuilding it. I've added another Old Man Emu rear suspension (what a difference over stock) and have been working on the new rear drawer storage system.

I largely made it identical to what I had, with a few minor mods. It is essentially a 39-inch x 39-inch x 10 inch box with two drawers. The main difference that I incorporated into this is a pair of slide-out tables, currently just mocked up as I decide between HDPE (cutting board) or wood with a nice finish. I will be added a 1/4-inch fitting to screw a monopod into to give them a leg and will have a very nice work surface for cooking, etc ...

The drawers and box will most likely be Herculined, as that material stood up extremely well in the previous iteration, but I haven't absolutely decided. The 50-liter Waeco will ride atop the drawers as it did previously and will be on slides for easy access.

For tires, I have 265/75/16 Michelin M+S tires which provide a brilliant ride and handling and are surprisingly decent on dirt and even the tiny bit of mud and rocks I've been through. I ultimately want to get back to 255/85/16s, but wish I could find a good "all-purpose" tire in that size other than an MT (swapping tires for a day trip sucks).

My second semester of five in Respiratory Therapy begins tomorrow, so who knows when the next bit of progress will be, but in the meantime, having a decent suspension and storage goes a long ways toward making the truck functional again.

[Redline]

Sorry the sale didn't work but glad you are keeping/building it :)