Supercamper

[TACODOC]

This is a very cool setup, check it out!

http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/

[slosurfer]

That's pretty cool. I especially like the indoor urinal.

[OutbacKamper]

Thanks Tacodoc;
Very good info on constructing a custom camper from nidacore.
I have posted this link on www.expeditioncampers.com

Cheers
Mark

ps I love this photo of the Saab:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a250/hollybeck/inspiration.jpg

[CLynn85]

Pretty cool, I plan on reading in its entirety tonight, screw homework.


I have a full sample kit of Nida-Core they sent me back when I was looking at the possibility of a Jeep Slide-in Camper. I hope to eventually find a good use for it one day. ;)

[Scott Brady]

I just left them a little note saying hi and to come check out our little forum :lurk:

[Brian894x4]

That is truly AWESOME. I can't believe they built that thing entirely on their own...job well done.

:clapsmile

[VikingVince]

Impressive...seems to me that engineers have such a leg-up over the rest of us in designing and building things like this...more power to 'em:clapsmile

[flyingwil]

Definitely cool!

[p1michaud]

This is a very cool setup, check it out!

http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/

Man that is just wild! :bowdown:
I love how he took it from the concept to completion.
I did't have the chance to read the whole thing, but I know what i'm doing tonight!
Cheers :beer:,
P

[BajaTaco]

Man, what a cool couple. That is just freaking awesome. :bowdown:

And they even like Hornitos too... :costumed-smiley-007

[dbolton]

That's great. Those guys live(d) just down the street from me. I kept hearing about the camper from a guy I surf with and they finally had it out at the local beach break, got to check it out.:lurk:

Those guys at Robinson Helicopter definately have their act together.:Wow1:

Dan

[Grim Reaper]

So has anybody shot them an e-mail to tell them we dig the rig and stop on by?

I want to hear more about the mateiral they used. I am really impressed with it.

[Kermit]

I found this link for the material they used. Now my gears are really turning. I wonder if I can make a pop-up version of that.

http://www.nida-core.com/intro_static.htm

[mountainpete]

Very cool :victory:

[The Swiss]

:bowdown: WOW!! That looks great! What a work they had done. And I am wondeirng when I get around to cut some plywood and make two simple bench-trunks for my Taco ... :rolleyes:

[Willman]

What a awesome buildup!!! Looks like they're having a blast with it!!!

:suning:

:elkgrin:

They would make get ExPo members!!!

:sunny:

[BogusBlake]

Wow! That thing is really cool! And I do agree, they seem like really cool folks!

What is really amazing to me is that they seemed to have built that entire rig with no welding. I pretty much suck at building anything out of non-metal materials, so that's really impressive.

[seth_js]

Whoa.... freak'n sweet!

[Brian894x4]

I would love to know the weight of the set up and how they might be faring with the rear frame of the Taco.

I think after all that work, the next two critical mods should be strengthening the frame and brand new custom springs. Then seriously consider a stronger full floating rear axle. I think then it would be complete and safe.

I'm still in awe over the camper design. A pop up version of that with a little lower profile would be the sweetest thing ever made. Of course, what they have is about as cool as it gets.

[njtaco]

I would love to know the weight of the set up and how they might be faring with the rear frame of the Taco.



It really doesn't look all that heavy to me...

The rear frame reinforcements (Demello style) are a given, but if they stay within GVWR, the Tacoma rear should be ok, I'd think.

[Grim Reaper]

I would love to know the weight of the set up and how they might be faring with the rear frame of the Taco.

I think after all that work, the next two critical mods should be strengthening the frame and brand new custom springs. Then seriously consider a stronger full floating rear axle. I think then it would be complete and safe.

I'm still in awe over the camper design. A pop up version of that with a little lower profile would be the sweetest thing ever made. Of course, what they have is about as cool as it gets.
I thought about that as well. I think a Pop up would actually add weight way up high and never save enough in fuel to justify the extra expense and agravation.


It didn't look to be sagging too bad and those helpers they had are not the most effective thing in the world. You know how bad our trucks are about sagging in the first place. I had to add a leafe just to level my 4Runner EMPTY. I really don't think they are that bad off in the weight department with the way the built the body. Most of their wieght is low and up behind the cab. The heaviest thing above the hight of the cab is the bed.

I agree that bracing/platting the rails over the axle would be a good idea. The mounting system is only loading two points so it is loading the frame differently then a standard bed would. After that a set of Air bags would do the job and allow the ability to tailer the ride to the load. The axle should be up for it with conservative driving. If I did anything I would put the front axle gusset on both sides of the rear diff and call it good.

[njtaco]

The mounting system is only loading two points so it is loading the frame differently then a standard bed would.

Good point...

I guess I was thinking the weight of the OEM bed offset the weight of the fiberglass, etc., at least somewhat.

It looks like the camper mounts are nearly over the rear spring and shackle mounts, from the construction pics.

I'm impressed with their patience, too. Two years to completion, IIRC. And they only had 500 miles on the truck before they left on the first trip. I wonder how many hours of labor it took to complete? They probably don't want to know!

[dbolton]

Yeah, but I'm not sure that fuel economy is the only reason to go with a pop-up. They're trying to do trips in Central America - in my experience, vertical clearance is frequently the limiting factor in getting around down there.

At least to some of the better surf spots.

[adventureduo]

Dont get me wrong, that is so amazing.. and im totally jealous!.. but.,

Isn't there some type of certification or law, regulation on building your own cab over? Doesnt it have to be inspected by the DMV? or CHP or someone to be on the road?

I guess not huh?

I didnt read the entire blog.. so maybe they did have too.. i dont know.

Just askin'

Still bitchen though.

[robert]

I think I would have gone with custom springs in the rear and possibly airbags; I'm betting they have to change out at some point anyways due to weight and ride.

Awesome project! I wish I had that much talent.

[njtaco]

Dont get me wrong, that is so amazing.. and im totally jealous!.. but.,

Isn't there some type of certification or law, regulation on building your own cab over? Doesnt it have to be inspected by the DMV? or CHP or someone to be on the road?

I guess not huh?

I didnt read the entire blog.. so maybe they did have too.. i dont know.

Just askin'

Still bitchen though.

I've worked in the marine and RV trade for more years than I want to remember...several years working hands-on on travel trailers, pop-ups, class A, B, and C motor homes, and yes, truck campers. The Supercamper's design, structurally and aesthetically, puts to shame many well-known brands I've experienced the dubious pleasure of repairing.

There is a certification by RVDA (or RVIA, I don't recall) that is available, but it is not required. It is as much marketing, IMHO, as it is safety. There is a UL seal to be had as well, but IDK if it is required. Canada has their own, different, standards.

Come to think of it, Mario with Adventure Trailers may have more info from a manufacturer's perspective. I hope he chimes in.

[oly884]

That's one sweet setup!

I'm hoping to be "removing" my bed and fixing a modified bed that accommodates my FWC much better. Also, make better use of the space that the setup does not utilize as of now.

[kcowyo]

I'm hoping to be "removing" my bed and fixing a modified bed that accommodates my FWC much better.

:confused:

[oly884]

Basically, I want to build a flat bed that allows for the FWC to sit much better on. On top of that, have it utilize the space around the bed that isn't used with the FWC on.

[Desertdude]

Brilliant! looks like a dream come true for the ultra cool couple - ingenuity and perseverance - and now Baja time :bowdown:

[SuperCamperos]

Hey guys, thanks for all the support. Holly's posting another blog entry showing some of the minor mods we've been making as we try to stuff another baja trip in during the xmas madness. We finally weighed the truck, coming in at 4520 dry (including camper, suspension mods, fridge, extra battery, compressor, etc.). A bit heavier than expected. We didn't weight it prior to starting this whole project, but I believe its curb weight new is about 3500 lbs (2004 TRD 4x4 extra cab loaded). Does anyone have a more accurate weight? Adding up all the materials used, we came up with it weighing 1000 lbs, which seems to work out except we took the bed off. So whatever the bed weighs is weight I can't account for. I'm hoping the curb weight of the stock truck is really more like 3650, so all our weights make some sense. Weighing the bed is difficult right now since it is standing upright in the garage just packed with junk. I'm guessing its 150-200 lbs.

Regardless, we're running a little heavy, probably 5200-5300 with all of our gear. Does everyone agree frame reinforcement is necessary? Most of the weight is going through the forward bed mounts straight into the forward spring mount. It seems that weight going through the aft mount would be much worse for bending the frame. If I keep the airbags, the Demello style reinforcement would interfere. Has anybody boxed the back side of the frame in that area?

On the blog, Jim was saying that the wheels/tires are usually the weakest link of the stock truck. The tires say max load of 2400 lbs each. I can see the aluminum wheels cracking eventually, so maybe steel would be the way to go fatigue wise.

Also does anybody use the hellwig rear sway bars? It seems to be tweaking the frame a little where the two bars clamp on to the frame. Seems like a crappy design to me because it is just wrenching the frame. I hope its not going to be a problem on this trip but in the future, if I keep the bar, I think I will box the frame in the area, run a tube through and attach the rod with a rod end.

Alright, thanks for the help and we're off to Baja to escape the Christmas Frenzy so you won't hear any replies for a couple of weeks. In the meantime check out our last minute mods on the blog:

http://www.thesupercamper.blogspot.com/
:camping:
Ryan and Holly

[Kermit]

Very cool camper...maybe you should start your own business?

I would ditch the airbags and get a custom leaf packs made, by a company like Deaver. Tell them what you'll be using them for and they can build them specifically for you. And a set of high performance shocks too. Like everything else it is up to personal opinion what they run and what purpose they will fulfill. Brands like Donahue, Bilstein, Race Runner, and others make very nice shocks for your application.

EX: http://www.racerunnershocks.com/

I would reinforce the frame too. It would be awful to bend the frame the whole way down in Baja.

There are quite a few people on here that know a heck of a lot more on the details than me. I am sure you'll get the answers you are looking for. I am learning alot from these guys.

[Scott Brady]

The truck is not too crazy on weight. My Tacoma is at nearly 6,000 lbs.

The 2001+ Tacomas have frame reinforcement incorporated into the frame. Additional reinforcement wont be required for your application until a heavy rear bumper or rear fuel tank is added.

I would also recommend researching a proper suspension system for the rear of your truck, using a custom multi-leaf rear spring pack dialed to your wet weight (like a Deaver or Alcan pack), along with shocks valved for the load. With good front struts you will not need airbags or anti-swaybars in the rear. Shock dampening and proper spring rate is the key to good handling and sway control.

I would stick with the stock tires and wheels unless you plan to drive more technical terrain or have extra cash for "bling". The tires are well within the load you have and the wheels are ultra-high-quality hub centric TRD models. Just keep the PSI in the rear at 35 until you have time for a chalk line test.

Thanks again for stopping in. Your project is an inspiration. All the best on your trip :)

[p1michaud]

Hey guys, thanks for all the support.

We finally weighed the truck, coming in at 4520 dry (including camper, suspension mods, fridge, extra battery, compressor, etc.). A bit heavier than expected. We didn't weight it prior to starting this whole project, but I believe its curb weight new is about 3500 lbs (2004 TRD 4x4 extra cab loaded). Does anyone have a more accurate weight?

If I keep the airbags, the Demello style reinforcement would interfere. Has anybody boxed the back side of the frame in that area?

On the blog, Jim was saying that the wheels/tires are usually the weakest link of the stock truck. The tires say max load of 2400 lbs each. I can see the aluminum wheels cracking eventually, so maybe steel would be the way to go fatigue wise.

Ryan and Holly

Very nice trailer, can't believe all the time and effort you guys have put in. For some information about Tacoma weights, take a look here (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1231).

As for the steel wheels, I would think that your aluminum wheels would be fine. Most people here have Tacomas that weight as much or more than yours but here is a good read on Steel Wheels vs. Aluminum Wheels (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=719&highlight=tacoma+suspension).

Finally, I would strongly recommend installing the Demello Frame Reinforcements for your application. Some guys have boxed (http://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=364570&postcount=50) their frame over on the TTORA board, but it's a ton of work. Some good reading here on the Demello Frame Reinforcements (http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31536&highlight).

All the best and good luck in your travels.
Cheers :beer:,
P

[Grim Reaper]

Hey guys, thanks for all the support. Holly's posting another blog entry showing some of the minor mods we've been making as we try to stuff another baja trip in during the xmas madness. We finally weighed the truck, coming in at 4520 dry (including camper, suspension mods, fridge, extra battery, compressor, etc.). A bit heavier than expected. We didn't weight it prior to starting this whole project, but I believe its curb weight new is about 3500 lbs (2004 TRD 4x4 extra cab loaded). Does anyone have a more accurate weight? Adding up all the materials used, we came up with it weighing 1000 lbs, which seems to work out except we took the bed off. So whatever the bed weighs is weight I can't account for. I'm hoping the curb weight of the stock truck is really more like 3650, so all our weights make some sense. Weighing the bed is difficult right now since it is standing upright in the garage just packed with junk. I'm guessing its 150-200 lbs.

Regardless, we're running a little heavy, probably 5200-5300 with all of our gear. Does everyone agree frame reinforcement is necessary? Most of the weight is going through the forward bed mounts straight into the forward spring mount. It seems that weight going through the aft mount would be much worse for bending the frame. If I keep the airbags, the Demello style reinforcement would interfere. Has anybody boxed the back side of the frame in that area?

On the blog, Jim was saying that the wheels/tires are usually the weakest link of the stock truck. The tires say max load of 2400 lbs each. I can see the aluminum wheels cracking eventually, so maybe steel would be the way to go fatigue wise.

Also does anybody use the hellwig rear sway bars? It seems to be tweaking the frame a little where the two bars clamp on to the frame. Seems like a crappy design to me because it is just wrenching the frame. I hope its not going to be a problem on this trip but in the future, if I keep the bar, I think I will box the frame in the area, run a tube through and attach the rod with a rod end.

Alright, thanks for the help and we're off to Baja to escape the Christmas Frenzy so you won't hear any replies for a couple of weeks. In the meantime check out our last minute mods on the blog:

http://www.thesupercamper.blogspot.com/
:camping:
Ryan and Holly

On the wheels:
As for steel over Aluminum.....If you were rock crawling it I would say Steel all the way. They can be hammered out if you bend one.

Now on my tow rig (1988 3/4 ton Suburban 8600lb GVWR and 10k towing capacity) I just ditched the steels becasue all 4 were warped from brake heat. I went with a Set of 589 knock offs from Eagle that were up to the task weight rating wise. My wheel assembly weight went down. Ride improved 10 fold. Couldn't be more happy.

On the back side of the rims on your truck it will probably have the weight they are rated for. With your truck if the rims are up to the task I would stick with them. Keep eyes on you local boards and Taco board http://www.tacomaterritory.com/ and a good chance you could pick up a matched set of rims for spares for cheap.

The Aluminum is also MUCH lighter so again with the types of roads you are running Unsprung weight is the enemy.

Tire wise I would step up to something like a BFG KO or KM with a D service rating. I know you can get the KO in an E rating in some sizes. The E-rated I think will be a problem because they run very high pressure, 80 psi in most cases. The D rated is 40-65psi max depending on the size. Here is the spec chart http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/specs/all-terrain-t-a-ko/44.html and you can compare all the sizes. Remember that tire's weight rating is at full pressure. Aired down so you can keep your teeth in your head on a washboard road you are at a lower weight rating so you want to up the tire capacity to keep in the safe zone.

Front you might want to look into the spindle gusset that is available for that. There are reports on snapping off the casting just below the upper ball joint. Mostly coming from the Desert race crowd but with the extra weight it might be something to consider. $25 bucks for the set it would be cheap peace of mind. About 2/3 the way down the page.
http://www.chaosfab.com/toyaccess_taco.html


As for the frame issues....People are seeing problems. Toyota has had complaints of failures under extreme use for a long time. Even though your load is right over the spring mounts there is still a lot of rotational movement going on as well...in your truck it might be even more since you no longer have the bed fighting it with the pivot on the rear camper mount.

I would consider platting and reinforcement or a brace over rails to clear the bags. Just be real careful with welding. You can actually make a stress riser by making a continuous weld. You would probably be best served to weld and inch skip a couple inches, the recommended way to weld a "fish plate". That will help keep form making a brittle area along a weld.

Welcome to the site! I very much enjoyed reading about your truck build and travels. You guys did an awesome job! :clapsmile

Now I need to go read the latest update!

[BogusBlake]

Also does anybody use the hellwig rear sway bars? It seems to be tweaking the frame a little where the two bars clamp on to the frame. Seems like a crappy design to me because it is just wrenching the frame. I hope its not going to be a problem on this trip but in the future, if I keep the bar, I think I will box the frame in the area, run a tube through and attach the rod with a rod end.



You might want to check out the sway bars from Stock Car supply. They'll send you a torsion rod with a custom length (and rate if you need it), a tube with bushings to house it in, and some machined arms and heims to link to your axle. I've seen a few people put them to good use on the rear of linked Toyota buggies.

Scott is also right about running rear shocks with proper damping for your application. Ill bet if you fix that issue first, your swaybar situation will go away.

Again, great work!

[Kermit]

My Tacoma is at nearly 6,000 lbs.



Holy Crap Scott!

How are you on power? Did you ad a supercharger to help with the extra load?

[Scott Brady]

Holy Crap Scott!

How are you on power? Did you ad a supercharger to help with the extra load?

Yeah, thats what I said when the scale operator gave me the ticket. The truck also has a 65% rear weight distribution. The rear of the truck weighs as much as a stock double cab.

No supercharger, just 5.29 gears. I am happy with how the truck performs.

[TACODOC]

Bienvenidos a ExPo SuperCamperos! (me es espanol es muey malo)

Ryan and Holly, I am still amazed by your camper project, well done!
Glad to see you guys post up here :beer:

[Kermit]

No supercharger, just 5.29 gears. I am happy with how the truck performs.

Ahhh...5.29 gears would help alot.

I remember when I first bought mine, we went out to Florence...simply amazed how much grunt the little Tacoma has.

I have been thinking of supercharging mine, so it would pull mountain grades a little better, since I load it down with gear and a trailer carrying a couple of dirt bikes on it. It does fine now, but, a little more power would nice.

[Brian894x4]

After you drive a 116 h.p. 22RE truck that weighes 5300-5400lbs. A Tacoma of any weight is a race car. ;)

[Kermit]

After you drive a 116 h.p. 22RE truck that weighes 5300-5400lbs. A Tacoma of any weight is a race car. ;)
Oh...I know I had a '85 4Runner and a '93 4WD Regular cab. :D

[Super Doody]

This is a very cool setup, check it out!

http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/


That is pretty cool. How did you and Scott for the link?:p

[Super Doody]

Hey guys, thanks for all the support. Holly's posting another blog entry showing some of the minor mods we've been making as we try to stuff another baja trip in during the xmas madness. We finally weighed the truck, coming in at 4520 dry (including camper, suspension mods, fridge, extra battery, compressor, etc.). A bit heavier than expected. We didn't weight it prior to starting this whole project, but I believe its curb weight new is about 3500 lbs (2004 TRD 4x4 extra cab loaded). Does anyone have a more accurate weight? Adding up all the materials used, we came up with it weighing 1000 lbs, which seems to work out except we took the bed off. So whatever the bed weighs is weight I can't account for. I'm hoping the curb weight of the stock truck is really more like 3650, so all our weights make some sense. Weighing the bed is difficult right now since it is standing upright in the garage just packed with junk. I'm guessing its 150-200 lbs.

Regardless, we're running a little heavy, probably 5200-5300 with all of our gear. Does everyone agree frame reinforcement is necessary? Most of the weight is going through the forward bed mounts straight into the forward spring mount. It seems that weight going through the aft mount would be much worse for bending the frame. If I keep the airbags, the Demello style reinforcement would interfere. Has anybody boxed the back side of the frame in that area?

On the blog, Jim was saying that the wheels/tires are usually the weakest link of the stock truck. The tires say max load of 2400 lbs each. I can see the aluminum wheels cracking eventually, so maybe steel would be the way to go fatigue wise.

Also does anybody use the hellwig rear sway bars? It seems to be tweaking the frame a little where the two bars clamp on to the frame. Seems like a crappy design to me because it is just wrenching the frame. I hope its not going to be a problem on this trip but in the future, if I keep the bar, I think I will box the frame in the area, run a tube through and attach the rod with a rod end.

Alright, thanks for the help and we're off to Baja to escape the Christmas Frenzy so you won't hear any replies for a couple of weeks. In the meantime check out our last minute mods on the blog:

http://www.thesupercamper.blogspot.com/
:camping:
Ryan and Holly


Ryan and Holly,

I was the knuckle head that for got the link for the supercamper from surfermag.com forum and thne posted it on TTORA. :D Glad to see you guys are on this board.

Man, you're living the dream. Got super cool camper truck and a beautiful pro surfer lady. All you need is a dog and lots of gas for traveling :jump:

Edit: someone else also mention this but here are some more examples. Should have read then post

In terms of rear frame re enforcement this the probably the best way to do it. This a tacoma project truck made for long travel dez racing. Basically boxing the entire rear end. Takes a lot work and fabing:

http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=186298

What most people who carry a lot of weight have done is this:

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34694&highlight=demello+frame

Basically welding a plate on the outside of the frame. Its the quick and easy way to do it but you really got a becareful with the weld because it can do more dammage to the frame.

You guys should also get rid of the stock trd front shocks. i bet the truck rides like a wet noodle esp with all the weight. Coilovers will give you awesome control for handling which need in 3rd world contries sometimes for evasive manuvers.:safari-rig: And the best coilover tested by tacoma offroaders are donahoe racing (designed by Cal Poly Mech Engineering Grad who also owns a tacoma). They don't sag and provide very good handling.

And if the air bags don't work out give deavers or alcan a call for a custom set of springs. Its probably the best way to go.

Good luck and please keep the blog entries coming :)

[SuperCamperos]

I don't know if I should be posting here or the suicide hotline...

Our Mexico trip was a disaster. An accident on the highway in Baja has left the camper somewhat damaged and the truck on the verge of being totalled. At least we had insurance. At least the camper is somewhat intact. At least we're not dead. But this sucks.

So holly's therapy is the blog if you wanna check it out...

http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/

I'm just trying to get the thing working again. The leaf springs are broken, the transmission is leaking, the axle is no longer perpendicular to the wheels, but most troublesome is the frame is bent. The tweaking is mainly at the shackle mounts. There are photos on the blog. Does anyone have experience with something like this? Can it be bent back? Is it worth the risk of the truck never driving the same again? The problem with totalling the truck and getting a new one is that it wouldn't be new. The camper will only fit on 2004 and earlier Tacomas so I'll be getting someone's 50,000 mile problem. Ours still only 3000 miles on it--thanks in part to a 400 mile tow truck ride from El Rosario to Redondo Beach.

So, regardless which truck is under the camper, I'm going to get some custom springs from Alcan and probably go with the Bilstein 5100s. Our weight completely loaded incl us is 5400 lbs (2900 rear axle, 2500 front). If I'm driving alone, with minimal supplies, the weight is more like 4800 lbs. I'm going to request springs that give us 0" lift when fully loaded, which is probably somewhere around 1.5" when driving alone. We don't need huge amounts of travel since we aren't rock climbing--just highway, sand, washboard, and some mud. I'm trying to keep the CG as low as possible. Does this make sense? Any other theories?

I must say also that the sway bar I installed really helped the cornering and sway problems on the highway. Ten minutes before the accident I removed it because I didn't like how the attach points were tweaking the frame. The truck was noticeably more sloppy. Ten minutes later any frame tweaking caused by the bar just didn't matter anymore. This isn't what caused the accident though. That was just pure crazy Mexican driving. Hopefully with the Alcan suspension upgrade, the sway bar won't be necessary.

Some side notes for anyone ever going to Mexico: Buy insurance! We got insurance from GE Seguros through Sanborn's. They have been pretty good so far. Its easy to buy online also. We also just buy it for one day on the drive down and one or two days on the drive back. No need for it when you are camping. Also bring a 4 band cell phone--invaluable to get a hold of an english speaking adjuster back home when the Cop is telling you that if you want a police report your truck is going to have to be impounded for a month or so. Finally bring some cigarettes, rum, and nudie magazines to calm the cop when you call his bluff. Speaking decent Spanish also helped us immensely as no one spoke any english including the adjuster that they sent to assess the damage. If learning a new language is too hard, bring an extra bottle of rum, and also another for all of your woes because destroying your truck just sucks...

[slooowr6]

Sorry to hear this but you guys are ok that's what really matters.
A bent frame like that, I would say the truck is totaled. It really sux to have a 3000miles truck totaled, it's hard if not impossible to find on with the same milage. But on the plus side the Taco are know to last a long time so a 50k Taco usually have no problem. You can get a Toyota cetified used and get the extend warrenty for a peace of mind.
Keeping CG low on a camper is a very good thing so 0" life sounds good. Maybe you can see if you can find a adjustable Rancho 9000 shocks it has adjustable damping will accomate various load condition better.
________
ipad guides (http://ipadguides.info)

[detailbarn]

SuperCamperos ,

Glad to see you on the board. So sorry to hear about the accident I think I actually shed a tear watching the video on the blog. Glad that neither of you where hurt , the Super Camper can be fixed or replaced the minds and hearts behind it can not!

As for not fitting on a new Tacoma would it be possible to modify the mounting to make it work? Maybe even cut the mount of the older Tacoma and have them welded on the new Tacoma frame.

Well what ever happens I wish you two the best and I look forward to updates on the blog and here.

[Willman]

Sucks about your accident!!! Any good auto body shop should be able to bent that back in place in most cases. It might be totalled???? Your rig in most cases will never be the same even if they can fix it...sad....Without looking at it first hand....an auto body shop make it happen. Make sure to get a few quotes from other shops.....Thanks for the great info. on rum, smokes, and mags!!!!.....lol

:Mechanic:

And...Welcome to the ExPo!!! You have a great buildup blog!!!

:safari-rig:

[toyrunner95]

dude that thing is totally salvagable, well.. kinda. you can hack the frame off where the bend starts (hopefully behind the cab) and tube frame it. or box frame it, tubing is easier though.

OR

take the camper totally off the truck, fix it, and put in on another. preferably a little more heavy duty. like a tundra.

[Scott Brady]

I was so sorry hear of this. Having built a truck from nothing myself, it must be heartbreaking.

A bent rear frame is a bad situation, but certainly not hopeless. It is common for entire rear frame assemblies to be made, customized, altered, etc. A frame bent in the center or the front can be a real issue.

There is no question in my mind that the camper could be removed and the frame aft of the cab repaired and improved for less than the cost of a new truck. I have welded entire new rear frame members on Jeeps and they can actually be stronger than stock.

Look at this as an opportunity to improve the stock frame configuration, integrate water or fuel tanks, add HD rear bumper assembly's or even swing-out components.

An Alcan or Deaver spring arrangement will be a vast improvement. You should also consider the Donahoe remote reservoir shocks.

Let me know if there is anything I can do to help pull together some resources and assistance with this.

[Kermit]

Let me know if there is anything I can do to help pull together some resources and assistance with this.

That what is so cool about this forum...the comradery for the fellow tribesman.

I am finding that alot in the offroad set. We all take care of each other. :)

[viter]

very sorry to hear about your crash, but like others sad the most important thing is that you guys are alright!z

good job on getting the insurance and handling the situation so well - not giving up to the cop's persistence in not calling the insurance, etc..

like others are saying - rear frame can be fixed, just ask around for a good frame shop

just in case you need new tranny since it is leaking, you could try looking for one on www.ttora.com. somebody there just totaled a 2004 tacoma and is selling all the parts including engine and tranny (not sure if anybody has bought it yet though, but there are other similar sales every once in a while).

please, let us know if the insurance works everything out so we have more info on the reliability of this particular insurance company

good luck to you guys!
you are doing an incredible job!!!


and just for everyones info, my friend who travels to Baja all the time (10-20 times a year) truly believes that one should try not to drive there at night unless it is absolutely impossible because accidents are just so much more common at night due to bad/sleepy/drunk/crazy drivers, especially of big trucks. and obviously he says insurance is a must - he even has a yearly plan for a couple hundred bucks through some company so he does not have to buy insurance every time he goes there.

[Grim Reaper]

Couple things to address with the insurance adjuster. That rear axle was hit HARD. It needs to be thoroughly checked for straightness and I would at the very least have the driver side shaft Magnafluxed if not insisting replacing it. I have seen several Toyota axles break at the snap ring that retains the bearing. I would never trust that axle shaft again after the hit it took.

The frame doesn’t look too bad. A competent frame man(or woman) could pull that back straight without much trouble. It looks more like the cross members buckled and let the rail rotate when the spring side loaded it. Pull it straight and either replace the last cross member or add 1 -2 more cross members.

It’s a shame they didn’t clip you about 14 inches further back. They would have missed the cab and hit the wheel flat instead of hooking the front of it. Would have been a lot less damage.

If they total it see what the buy back is. Might be worth it to salvage the engine and transmission.
Hoping for the best for you guys.

[kcowyo]

I don't know if I should be posting here or the suicide hotline...


We saw the news and had another thread going here (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3609). The sentiments are genuine if all similar. Any idea how long it's going to take before you hear from the insurance company?

I know this had to ruin your Christmas. What a kick to the beanbag after two years of planning and building. I hope you won't let this discourage you from rebuilding. It was an impressive outfit and the idea should not be abandoned.

In hindsight, these disasters often make the best stories and build character and all of those other new-agey sentiments that probably don't mean much when your Supercamper is not looking so super. For what it's worth, you've got a bunch of us pulling for ya' and hoping things get worked out soon.

Hang in there -

[bigreen505]

Ryan and Holly, I'm sorry to hear about the crash, I can't even imagine.

A few thoughts, do with them as you will. No answers, but a few more questions to consider.

Frame -- My dad's Suburban got hit pretty hard by someone who fell asleep at the wheel and the decision was to have the frame replaced. I would pursue that route because I would not want your load and camper/cargo on a straightened frame. I can honestly say that the Suburban came back in like-new condition, but the body shop really had to go to bat for us against the insurance company.

Total it and get a new truck -- While I understand your reasons not to want to replace your Taco with an older truck, I would consider your truck an unknown quantity at this point -- you may be finding problems related to the crash for many trips to come. When you send those kinds of loads and forces through a truck, there is no way to know what is and what is not affected.

Assuming you repair the damage, what will you be keeping and what will be replaced? My guess it that frame, rear axle, transmission and drive shaft are on the list, but you know for sure. What will all of that cost in time and money and what will the insurance company get you. If you want to keep the truck, push them on replacing the frame and all else. If you get a new truck, how much time and money will be required to transplant the camper? How much damage did the camper sustain (check all your bonds and joints carefully)?

As always, make sure you get a couple of really great body shops to look at it give you an estimate. They will know what it will really cost to fix and may also look for problems in places you have not yet considered.

I hope you two can get this resolved to your complete satisfaction and get back to the beach.

Bill

[Rezarf <><]

Amazing build!

Truely an inspiration! I hope you can get it back on the road soon with minimal headache.

Rezarf <><

[Brian894x4]

I'm not an expert on frame damage, but if I had to be hit anywhere, I'd prefer where you were hit. I think rear frame is far easier than the front. YOu mentioned it was tweaked at the rear shackle. That's even further back and probably a much easier fix. I would imagine it’s tweaked at the weak C-channel part of the rear Taco frame?

As mentioned by others, I would use this an opportunity. A golden opportunity. Even if the truck was totaled, I would do everything you could to keep the truck. I don’t know how insurance laws work in your state. Sometimes they insist on taking the truck and not allowing you to keep it. But I would do everything I could to keep it. Even just for the motor/trans set up, if the frame couldn’t be fixed, but I just can’t imagine that it couldn’t be.

The trans is aluminum. There’s no surprise that it’s cracked and leaking, if it got hit. A new one could be installed by Toyota pretty easily if the insurance will cover it, as they should.

5400lbs is not bad, but it does exceed the Taco's gross weight by about 300lbs, which isn’t too bad, but if it were my truck, this is what I do with it.

1) During frame repairs, I would upgrade the rear frame, like Scott did on his rig.
2) Add the Alcan or Deaver springs. I went with Alcan and I personally love them. They are good people and if you given them proper measurements and weights, they will build them right. One thing to remember is that even though you will give them your rear weight of each wheel, you have a lot of weight behind the axle that needs to be accounted for. I would send them a picture and as much info as you can about your rig.
3) This isn’t mandatory, but I would consider strengthening the spring mounts on the axles. I’ve seen the Taco mounts bend with excess weight.
4) This also isn’t mandatory, but I would consider upgrading the rear axle to a full floating axle. I know there are several kits for old Toyota trucks. Not sure about the Taco axle though.

You’re plan to keep CG low is a very wise one. I would definitely keep your ride height stock. You might be able to add a thicker aftermarket anti-roll bar up front to help a bit, since articulation really isn’t going matter that much.

The one off road mod I would consider is a rear locker. I’m not sure if yours has the factory electric locker or not, but if not, an ARB air locker in the rear could really come in handy if you get stuck in the sand, especially since you aren’t winch equipped. I didn’t notice any sand ladders in your set up. Without a winch, but doing a lot of beach driving, that might be a good addition to your supplies. They aren’t cheap, but they are light enough usually that you can through them on top or the side of the camper.

I'm sorry this happened. But I really think it's fixable and you could be back on the road in a few months. Good luck.

[SuperCamperos]

Thanks for all the help everyone, we really appreciate it.

Once the adjuster gets out to check the damage, I'm going to take the camper off the truck and be able to see what's really going on. At least I'll be able to sight along the length of the frame better and see how extensive the damage is. At that point we'll either fix it or get another 2004. Modifying the camper for a 2005+ Taco or Tundra just seems like too much work at this point--it would need new frame mounts, utility boxes, and other untold mods to make it work.

With the camper off, it will be a good time to weld on the fish plate, upgrade the suspension, and get some more accurate weights on both the camper and the truck, which outta help Alcan.

Good suggestions with the buy back option on the total by the way. I'll see what they say if it is totalled. I'm curious what their policy is and how much they would charge.

We do have the electric rear locker with the TRD and intend to get it again if we are forced to get a new rig. And maybe some day we will have the pleasure of getting stuck in the sand...

Thanks again and we'll let you know how it goes,
Ryan and Holly

[Super Doody]

I just came back from baja myself. Sorry about the accident and the hassles. I know there are some good reviews on alcans but since Deaver is pretty much local for you guys, I would consider them. If something goes wrong or need adjusting you can take them down to their shop in Santa Anna. And they have really good customer service. Just my 2Cents.

In terms of the damaged frame, if worse comes to worse you can just do a frame swap with a brand new one. Kinda like what David Hale did with his truck.

http://www.tankota.net/Misc/Bentframe/framebent.htm


Also, bet there are some low mileage, soccer mom/old lady 2004 tacomas around. Its a toyota so a few more mileages isn't all that bad.


Regradless of what you do, good luck. There are a lot of info and resoruces on TTORA or just ask here. We'll hook you up.

[SuperCamperos]

Does Deaver do the full custom thing like Alcan or do they just have a few different models to choose from? The Deavers for sale on Whelers Off Road, say that "there is a decrease in gross max weight handling capability over the stock leaf packs". Will they make packs for more weight? I know we're around 5300-5400 lbs fully loaded.

Thanks,
ryan

[Desertdude]

Yes - Talk to Scott Born at Deaver, give him your weight and height requirements, he can then set up a custom spring pack for you. He was really able to set me up according to my needs on the Tacoma

scott@deaverspring.com

[p1michaud]

Yes - Talk to Scott Born at Deaver, give him your weight and height requirements, he can then set up a custom spring pack for you. He was really able to set me up according to my needs on the Tacoma

scott@deaverspring.com

:iagree:

As Deserdude said, talk to Scott Born and he will take care of you. His contact info is:
Scott Born, Sales and Marketing Mgr., (714) 542-3703
e-mail was posted above.
Also tell him that you heard about Deaver Springs on Expedition Portal.

Cheers :beer:,
P

[Super Doody]

Does Deaver do the full custom thing like Alcan or do they just have a few different s to choose from? The Deavers for sale on Whelers Off Road, say that "there is a decrease in gross max weight handling capability over the stock leaf packs". Will they make packs for more weight? I know we're around 5300-5400 lbs fully loaded.

Thanks,
ryan

Those the 7 leafs deaver leaf pack. I have those. They dont handle weight very well because they were designed for tacoma that will carry just enough fuel and two spares for dez racing. They do ride awesome empty. I have them. Yes like others have said they do full custom springs. Its a family business and they having been making springs for a long long time. A lot of dez racing truck have deavers springs.

They can make anything you want them to do for ride heigh and weight capacity. Plus they are local and have very good customer service.

[SuperCamperos]

I've just been looking at the possibility of putting the camper on a 2005+ Tacoma if it came to that.

I noticed that the shock is now mounted on the outboard side of the frame making me think that the frame might not be any wider than on the 2004 and earlier tacomas, despite the 4" increase in track width. Anyone out there with a 2005+ Tacoma that could tell me the distance between frame rails (outside to outside)? This would tell me if the camper mounting would be interchangeable.

Secondly, I don't know if it would be worth it weight wise. Check out the specs for a 2004 vs 2007 xtra cab 4x4 V6 Tacoma...

http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/spec_engines.aspx?year=2004&make=Toyota&model=Tacoma&trimid=-1

http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/spec_engines.aspx?year=2007&make=Toyota&model=Tacoma&trimid=-1

How in the hell could Toyota increase the GVWR by 260 lbs, yet the payload is reduced by 190 lbs?

I really would like a new truck, with no miles, and a warranty, etc but the numbers aren't making sense to me. Can anyone give me some good reasons why an overly heavy camper would prefer a 2007? The wider wheel base would be nice for stability but 190 lbs is a lot of Tecates. I'm just not seeing it...

I'm gonna give Deavers a call as soon as I can rule out putting the camper on anything but a 2003-2004 tacoma.

Thanks for any input and all previous help...
Ryan

[TACODOC]

2005 frame width is 45 and 1/4 inches, rail to rail measured from the outside :ylsmoke:

[slooowr6]

Payload went down cause the truck got heavier. GVWR= truck weight + payload. I've a 06 Taco, I can go meause the frame tomorrow and report back.
The plus for going to a 05+ Taco is you get a 4.0 V6 with 268lbs torque. It's a brand new well design engine. But making you camper fit on there will be more complicated.

[SuperCamperos]

260 increase in GVWR and 190 decrease in payload = 450 lbs increase in vehicle weight. I just can't imagine taking a 2004 Tacoma and trying to add 450 lbs of steel to it without actually beefing up whatever is needed to increase the payload.

[slooowr6]

05+ Tacos look much bigger than 04 Tacos.
How much is your camper weight? I'm getting a camper weights at around 750lbs unloaded.

[SuperCamperos]

I don't know the exact weight breakdown of truck vs camper, but its somewhere around 1000 lbs including extra battery, refrigerator, compressor, mattress, etc. Just no clothes, food, and water. I'll get the real weight in a couple of days since I'm going to be taking the camper off the frame this weekend. I'll let you know...

[SuperCamperos]

Thanks for the info Tacodoc. Our 2004 taco frame (slightly bent) is 41" rail to rail. Wouldn't be an easy swap as my mounts would be coming up short. oh well...

[slooowr6]

I asked awhile ago about how much can a truck take above GVWR, there is no real hard and fast rule to determine that. One thing for sure is IF the truck get in to an accident AND it's cause by your truck overloaded. Insurance company may reject the claim and other leagal issue might show up as well. BUT, I have not heard a real first hand experience of this happen. ;)
My 06 Tack 4 doors long bed with me and my wife (270lbs) and a full tank of gas, the truck weights a 4480lbs on a landfill scale.

[SuperCamperos]

Hey Scott Brady or anyone else with a heavy truck and Deavers: I'm trying to piece my rig back together and get custom leaf springs. Scott Born at Deaver said my best bet would be to get new stock springs (since they are broken) and then take it to him to add leaves as req'd. He says keeping the over load spring on is the best way to go. Anyone know why this would be better? I thought the overload spring is there mainly to compensate for large load ranges, not just large loads. We're running between 5000-5400 lb all of the time.

What was the reasoning in not having an overload on your 6000 lb rig, scott? Was you 10 leaf off-the-shelf or was there some design discussions?

Also, I think I'm going to get the demello frame reinforcement and Rivet it on to minimize stress concentrations due to welding. 3/16 structural rivets can take 1000 lbs each in shear, so it shouldn't take too many (25 each side?). has anyone done this or used bolts?

I've looked through the archives and can't find out if the tacoma frame is heat treated. I believe that the detail parts are heat treated but the assembly is not heat treated as a whole. Therefore you get normalized (weaker) areas wherever its welded, plus a stress concentration going from lower strength to higher strength, which is bad in fatigue.

[p1michaud]

Hey Scott Brady or anyone else with a heavy truck and Deavers: I'm trying to piece my rig back together and get custom leaf springs. Scott Born at Deaver said my best bet would be to get new stock springs (since they are broken) and then take it to him to add leaves as req'd. He says keeping the over load spring on is the best way to go. Anyone know why this would be better? I thought the overload spring is there mainly to compensate for large load ranges, not just large loads. We're running between 5000-5400 lb all of the time.

What was the reasoning in not having an overload on your 6000 lb rig, scott? Was you 10 leaf off-the-shelf or was there some design discussions?

Also, I think I'm going to get the demello frame reinforcement and Rivet it on to minimize stress concentrations due to welding. 3/16 structural rivets can take 1000 lbs each in shear, so it shouldn't take too many (25 each side?). has anyone done this or used bolts?

I'm suprised to hear that he recommends using stock leaf pack and keeping your overload springs. I've gone through 2 sets of OEM leaf springs and my friend with a 99 Tacoma broke his OEM leaf springs. The OEM springs just plain suck IMO. I now have 9 leaf Deavers and they are great, but sag easily when loaded due to the overload springs being removed. Others have had their 9 leafs rebuilt to 10 or 11 leafs to handle the additional weight and seem to be happy with the results. I would suggest you go with a 10 or 11 custom leaf set up from Deaver. The price is going to similar to what you would pay for the OEM springs but you are going to have a much better product at the end of the day. Choosing the right shocks for your heavy load is also key to proper suspension performance. Scott and Chris can elaborate on this better than I can. If you search this board for "Tacoma Suspension" you should find some very useful discussions on Tacoma suspension upgrates.

As for the frame reinforcements, I'd have it professionally welded. The key is to keep your welds on the outer part of the 3/16 plate on the horizontal. Weld in all the holes but don't weld the ends of the plate (i.e. vertical weld). A good stitch weld (1" to 1.5" weld with same spacing in between) and sufficient time to cool between welds won't harm your frame. The key is to alternate between sides of the truck during welding this allows for proper cooling between welds. I have yet to hear of anyone bolting or riveting these on. It could be done.

Good luck with the repair and I would suggest that anything you have to replace take that opportunity to upgrade the component as well.
Cheer :beer:,
P

[Super Doody]

Hey Scott Brady or anyone else with a heavy truck and Deavers: I'm trying to piece my rig back together and get custom leaf springs. Scott Born at Deaver said my best bet would be to get new stock springs (since they are broken) and then take it to him to add leaves as req'd. He says keeping the over load spring on is the best way to go. Anyone know why this would be better? I thought the overload spring is there mainly to compensate for large load ranges, not just large loads. We're running between 5000-5400 lb all of the time.

What was the reasoning in not having an overload on your 6000 lb rig, scott? Was you 10 leaf off-the-shelf or was there some design discussions?

Also, I think I'm going to get the demello frame reinforcement and Rivet it on to minimize stress concentrations due to welding. 3/16 structural rivets can take 1000 lbs each in shear, so it shouldn't take too many (25 each side?). has anyone done this or used bolts?

I've looked through the archives and can't find out if the tacoma frame is heat treated. I believe that the detail parts are heat treated but the assembly is not heat treated as a whole. Therefore you get normalized (weaker) areas wherever its welded, plus a stress concentration going from lower strength to higher strength, which is bad in fatigue.

I'm kinda surprised at the stock springs and overload springs too but they are the experts. But one of the benefits of military wrap leaf pack is it helps to prevent/elimnate axle wrap. But I dont know if you experience axle wrap with the static heavy load.

If you do need to a replacement the stock leaf springs, I'm sure you can get some locally for cheap. If you want to pay for shipping from nor cal, I a set that only has 15K miles on them.

Interesting on idea on the rivets. Will they loosen over time?

Keep posting guys. There are a lot of resources here and on TTORA. Good luck.

[devinsixtyseven]

well, you guys got me curious...

fwiw the 05+ extended cab tacoma is the same size, within inches, of the 00-06 extended cab tundra...wheelbase, width, length and height it's almost exactly the same truck.

that seems to be about where the similarity ends. the 00-06 tundra is rated almost 400# more load capacity than the 05+ tacomas, despite a very similar configuration.

perhaps toyota was feeling wary and underrated the tacoma, or they may have overrated the tundra. the tundra's entire drivetrain, save the v8 engine, came from v6 toyotas, including the transmission (despite the different part numbers)...the tranny is from a supra, and everything else is from the tacomas (literally, the parts are drop-in except for minor details on the v8 tcase due to the minor differences in the two v6 transmissions used in the supra and tacoma).

the -04 tacomas are very stout overall. toyota was apparently confident enough with the running gear that they wholesaled it to the tundra, with a higher gvwr.

dunno what all that might mean to you, or if it helps, or if it just makes things muddier...but there's the facts, for whatever theyre worth.

-sean

[dbolton]

Ryan - I've got the Deaver 9's on my tacoma, and am thinking about going to 10's or 11's to account for the slide-in camper I picked up not too long ago. I was looking at overloads, but decided against it. I agree with your thinking - the overloads are designed to account for heavier-than-normal loads over the rear axle, without having a stiffer spring back there all the time (for ride comfort when not loaded).

Regarding the rivets - I'm going way back to my introductory metallurgy class - but if the frame isn't heat treated then doesn't that mean it just has some hardening from the manufacturing process, which is lost during the heating and (presumably uncontrolled) cooling of the weld? I think that's why Jason Demello is pretty careful about his welds - trying not to overheat the entire steel section.

With the rivets, you end up with stress risers at the rivet holes.

BTW - I read the latest update; looks like you had a lot of help, but I'm right up the road near the RB pier, if you ever need another wrench.

Dan

[Scott Brady]

I am running an 11 leaf pack with excellent results. I would trust Scott's recommendation on the leaf set-up, as he may want to retain the overload to prevent negative arch.

I will be talking with those guys next week anyways as the Off-Road Expo show and we can talk in more detail.

[SuperCamperos]

Good point, Scott, on the negative arch thing. Since I'm not looking for lift, my springs would be much more susceptible to going into the negative arch zone.

On the rivet vs weld subject, you do get stress risers at rivet holes, but you also get stress risers at a weld joint, due to both the heat affected zone as well as weld geometry. One good thing about the rivets is that they would be closer to the neutral axis of the "C", whereas the weld is closer to the outer fibers, which see the most stress.

The rivets, however, could potentially loosen over time when the frame starts to corrode.

[viter]

check out this frame plating by CBI off-road - http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?p=674659#post674659

[Ramdough]

Instead of Rivets, I would use bolts. Then you can always remove the plates and repaint.

A 1/4-28 grade 5 bolt should take around 1600 lb shear.

You could get a yellow zinc dichromate???? coated bolt for not all that much. Or use fewer larger bolts.

I am not voting bolted vs weld.... just like bolts over rivets for critical stuff.

[viter]

bolts would not be a problem - they are strong, the holes for the bolts in the frame might. the rule of thumb is that at any hole the stress is magnified 3 times.
how much stress will be magnified at the welding spots? - I am not sure...

[Super Doody]

check out this frame plating by CBI off-road - http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?p=674659#post674659


Thats really good. I would rather do < type of weld at the end of the plate instead of type striaght edge.


People have been using these type of plates for a while now and some of these guys wheel their truck pretty damn hard and I have yet to hear anyone cracking their frame due to plate reinforcement.

[Super Doody]

Hey Scott Brady or anyone else with a heavy truck and Deavers: I'm trying to piece my rig back together and get custom leaf springs. Scott Born at Deaver said my best bet would be to get new stock springs (since they are broken) and then take it to him to add leaves as req'd. He says keeping the over load spring on is the best way to go. Anyone know why this would be better? I thought the overload spring is there mainly to compensate for large load ranges, not just large loads. We're running between 5000-5400 lb all of the time.

What was the reasoning in not having an overload on your 6000 lb rig, scott? Was you 10 leaf off-the-shelf or was there some design discussions?

Also, I think I'm going to get the demello frame reinforcement and Rivet it on to minimize stress concentrations due to welding. 3/16 structural rivets can take 1000 lbs each in shear, so it shouldn't take too many (25 each side?). has anyone done this or used bolts?

I've looked through the archives and can't find out if the tacoma frame is heat treated. I believe that the detail parts are heat treated but the assembly is not heat treated as a whole. Therefore you get normalized (weaker) areas wherever its welded, plus a stress concentration going from lower strength to higher strength, which is bad in fatigue.


Any news on the frame ?:D

[SuperCamperos]

The auto shop says that there shouldn't be too much of a problem bending the frame back even though upon further inspection, I see the frame has been so racked that the front tires are about an inch offset from each other fore-aft. After the frame adjustment and the minor body work, they are going to give me a new complete rear end (not new but a used one). This would be the axle, drive shaft, differential, etc, so we should be in pretty good shape on that. Everything is just taking a really long time. And in the meantime, on Friday, Holly totalled her car on the 405. She's ok, but things just haven't been going too smoothly.

I did, however, get a dry weight on the camper. I ordered an "obesity scale" online--goes up to 550 lbs, rather than the conventional 330 lb bathroom scale. It even talks to you in case your belly is so big that you can't see the read out. Any ways, I have the camper up on three saw horses, So I jacked up the camper at the three points individually with the scale under the jack and added the numbers together to get 1100 lbs. Pretty heavy, but subtracting the weight of the bed out, its more around 900, which makes sense with our total dry weight running at 4500 lbs. This weight includes an extra battery, fridge, solar panel, air compressor, and water pump (things you would have to add to the 700 lb dry weight of something like a Four Wheel Camper). So we're about on par weight wise with anyone with a FWC and some options.

[robert]

If you are going to be replacing the rear axle anyways, I might look into a Ford 9". Currie Enterprises can build one to your specs that will carry the weight better than the stock Toyota axle. Just a thought..........

[jrizman]

If you are going to be replacing the rear axle anyways, I might look into a Ford 9". Currie Enterprises can build one to your specs that will carry the weight better than the stock Toyota axle. Just a thought..........

The TRD axle is fine IMO, its not like he is supercharged and running low *** gears. ive beat the **** outta mine and its fine, not to mention the extra few grand for that 9", 14 bolt or any other axle...

That load isnt bad at all, just upgrade the springs and itll be good to go!

[Super Doody]

The auto shop says that there shouldn't be too much of a problem bending the frame back even though upon further inspection, I see the frame has been so racked that the front tires are about an inch offset from each other fore-aft. After the frame adjustment and the minor body work, they are going to give me a new complete rear end (not new but a used one). This would be the axle, drive shaft, differential, etc, so we should be in pretty good shape on that. Everything is just taking a really long time. And in the meantime, on Friday, Holly totalled her car on the 405. She's ok, but things just haven't been going too smoothly.

I did, however, get a dry weight on the camper. I ordered an "obesity scale" online--goes up to 550 lbs, rather than the conventional 330 lb bathroom scale. It even talks to you in case your belly is so big that you can't see the read out. Any ways, I have the camper up on three saw horses, So I jacked up the camper at the three points individually with the scale under the jack and added the numbers together to get 1100 lbs. Pretty heavy, but subtracting the weight of the bed out, its more around 900, which makes sense with our total dry weight running at 4500 lbs. This weight includes an extra battery, fridge, solar panel, air compressor, and water pump (things you would have to add to the 700 lb dry weight of something like a Four Wheel Camper). So we're about on par weight wise with anyone with a FWC and some options.

Thanks for the update Ryan and I'm glad Holly is okay. Are you getting a new (re-manufactured?) rear end through the dealer?

On the subject of rear axle housing...Tacodab or Dean (TTORA) destroyed two Toyota (bent spring perch) TRD rear axle wheeling hard and using a lot of skinny. A lot of had to do with his super flex OEM leaf pack. You guys will probably never drive that hard but its good that you guys up grade your rear springs.

[SuperCamperos]

I'm not sure where the guy is getting the rear end. Its not through the dealer as he claims that the dealer will only sell individual parts and it would have to be assembled afterwards. Does anyone know if this is correct? I should probably call the dealer myself to keep him honest.

[BogusBlake]

I'm not sure where the guy is getting the rear end. Its not through the dealer as he claims that the dealer will only sell individual parts and it would have to be assembled afterwards.

Might be true, but even if it is, there aren't that many parts to a Toyota rear axle and it wouldn't take long or be difficult to assemble.


I should probably call the dealer myself to keep him honest.

Uhh, yeah you should.


That's too bad about you guys' other car. I'd stay off bikes for a while now too!

[TACODOC]

I'd stay off bikes for a while now too!

Now thats just plain wrong! :roost: :sombrero:

[Super Doody]

I'm not sure where the guy is getting the rear end. Its not through the dealer as he claims that the dealer will only sell individual parts and it would have to be assembled afterwards. Does anyone know if this is correct? I should probably call the dealer myself to keep him honest.


Sounds kinda sketchy to me. Most of the time you have buy the entire unit. I think your 3rd member (not that member) diff gears, locker, ect is fine. The only thing that might be bent are the axle shafts and possibly axle housing. You can get those parts individually. Get the from trdparts4u barabara King wife of chris king both are member of ttora. Whole prices...seriously. With with shipping probably cheaper than dealers.

Here are some pics of dean's axle swap.

Just in case you did see this post. Here is a link to a factory service manual

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=53387&postcount=1

You look at every single part in detail.


I'm not trying to add fuel to the fire but I would push for a brand new rear end. How many miles did you have the on the orignal? No remanfuactured unit is going to be as new as your old one.

So what the claims from the mex can isurance people say? did you guys settle?

Good luck. You guys will be back in no time :safari-rig: :sombrero:

[SuperCamperos]

I finally went through the shoebox of receipts that we had kept to add up the total cost of building the camper.

The final tally: $13,300.

This includes everything, except major tools bought for the project. It does however include things like sand paper, duct tape, drill bits, rubber gloves, paint brushes, stuff we bought and decided not to use, stuff we bought and it didn't work so had to buy something else, etc.

Also included: refrigerator, air compressor, water pump, extra battery, off road lights, isolator, air bag suspension, solar panel, controller, inverter, cushions, bedding--pretty much every single thing that we have added to the stock truck.

Labor cost: way too much, especially if you count all the time I spent thinking about it while staring at the wall at work...

As far as the repairs are going: we talked to Toyota and they didn't recommend buying individual parts for the rear end--they said just get a used already assembled piece, so that's what we did. Our second appraisal was for $8700 and the auto shop says that that should be reasonable to cover it, so that has to go through some approval process in Mexico and then they send me a check 30 working days after approval. That should take about a year I'm guessing from what I know about Mexico.

You know what they say: Manana doesn't mean tomorrow--it just means "not Today".:costumed-smiley-007

I'll go so far as to recommend the ins company we used only when I see the $$$.

[Super Doody]

I finally went through the shoebox of receipts that we had kept to add up the total cost of building the camper.

The final tally: $13,300.

This includes everything, except major tools bought for the project. It does however include things like sand paper, duct tape, drill bits, rubber gloves, paint brushes, stuff we bought and decided not to use, stuff we bought and it didn't work so had to buy something else, etc.

Also included: refrigerator, air compressor, water pump, extra battery, off road lights, isolator, air bag suspension, solar panel, controller, inverter, cushions, bedding--pretty much every single thing that we have added to the stock truck.

Labor cost: way too much, especially if you count all the time I spent thinking about it while staring at the wall at work...

As far as the repairs are going: we talked to Toyota and they didn't recommend buying individual parts for the rear end--they said just get a used already assembled piece, so that's what we did. Our second appraisal was for $8700 and the auto shop says that that should be reasonable to cover it, so that has to go through some approval process in Mexico and then they send me a check 30 working days after approval. That should take about a year I'm guessing from what I know about Mexico.

You know what they say: Manana doesn't mean tomorrow--it just means "not Today".:costumed-smiley-007

I'll go so far as to recommend the ins company we used only when I see the $$$.

Thanks for the update Ryan. Is Holly on tour? Haven't seen an update yet on the blog. Yeah you totally want to get a complete factory assembled rear end. Couple guys from here and ttora are thinking of doing a 10 summer baja surf trip. You guys interested?:sombrero:

[SuperCamperos]

Hey guys, can anyone help me out with this?

We got the truck back from the shop. Drives straight, body work looks good, everything almost back to normal.

The only problem is the fuel tank which was replaced. When I went to fill it up (on empty with the light on) it only took 14 gallons (the gauge then reads full). The old tank would take almost 18 when the light came on, which makes sense--18.5 gallons for 2004 taco.

My question is: is it possible to fit the 2wd tank (15.8) gallons in a 4wd? This seems like the only explanation to me, but maybe someone could give me some other possibilities?

The tank goes downward where it goes under the cab, but the cab has a bump upward. Is this where the extra fuel is supposed to go? On the aft end, there is some chaffe padding that looks like it is supposed to bump against the frame cross member, but is 1" off. Is that correct?

I've attached some pics, so if anyone can see anything obviously wrong...

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6295&stc=1&d=1173451268
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6296&stc=1&d=1173451343

Thanks, any help would be appreciated...ryan

[Super Doody]

Hey guys, can anyone help me out with this?

We got the truck back from the shop. Drives straight, body work looks good, everything almost back to normal.

The only problem is the fuel tank which was replaced. When I went to fill it up (on empty with the light on) it only took 14 gallons (the gauge then reads full). The old tank would take almost 18 when the light came on, which makes sense--18.5 gallons for 2004 taco.

My question is: is it possible to fit the 2wd tank (15.8) gallons in a 4wd? This seems like the only explanation to me, but maybe someone could give me some other possibilities?

The tank goes downward where it goes under the cab, but the cab has a bump upward. Is this where the extra fuel is supposed to go? On the aft end, there is some chaffe padding that looks like it is supposed to bump against the frame cross member, but is 1" off. Is that correct?

I've attached some pics, so if anyone can see anything obviously wrong...

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6295&stc=1&d=1173451268
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6296&stc=1&d=1173451343

Thanks, any help would be appreciated...ryan

kinda hard to tell from the pictures.

Does it look like this:

http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/sf2rzfe3/ftal/comp.pdf

i doubt a toyota 2x4 (5 lug, mini) gas tank would bolt up to a tacoma esp with all the hoses for emissions stuff. The low fuel light/pump assembly is like a toilet bober thingy so if you are not on a level surface it will also go on.

Glad you got your truck back.

[BogusBlake]

Pull the sending unit out of that tank and make sure it's not bent.

The gauge on my '85 started reading empty at 1/4 tank and would never reach full even when I topped off the tank. I took the sender out and the float arm (wire like a coathanger) was bent up so that the potentiometer would never be pushed all the way up. It started doing that right after I hit a few big bumps right after filling up. You guys took a pretty big hit on that side, so I would suspect your sender arm is bent too.

[Grim Reaper]

Toyota had different size tanks depending on the options. Example. SR5 4Runner like mine has a 17. gallon tank. base model got a 14.8. The same would be true for your truck.

Some where on that tank is a part number. Find it and the dealer should be able to tell you what it is.

[Super Doody]

Toyota had different size tanks depending on the options. Example. SR5 4Runner like mine has a 17. gallon tank. base model got a 14.8. The same would be true for your truck.

Some where on that tank is a part number. Find it and the dealer should be able to tell you what it is.


Thats false. All tacomas 1995.5 to 2004 have the same size gas tank.

[peekay]

Hey guys, can anyone help me out with this?

We got the truck back from the shop. Drives straight, body work looks good, everything almost back to normal.

The only problem is the fuel tank which was replaced. When I went to fill it up (on empty with the light on) it only took 14 gallons (the gauge then reads full). The old tank would take almost 18 when the light came on, which makes sense--18.5 gallons for 2004 taco.

My question is: is it possible to fit the 2wd tank (15.8) gallons in a 4wd? This seems like the only explanation to me, but maybe someone could give me some other possibilities?

The tank goes downward where it goes under the cab, but the cab has a bump upward. Is this where the extra fuel is supposed to go? On the aft end, there is some chaffe padding that looks like it is supposed to bump against the frame cross member, but is 1" off. Is that correct?

I've attached some pics, so if anyone can see anything obviously wrong...

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6295&stc=1&d=1173451268
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6296&stc=1&d=1173451343

Thanks, any help would be appreciated...ryan

try taking a pic from the bottom. I think most of us don't have a lot of familiarity with the top view of the fuel tank but can recognize the bottom. Also, although 14 gallons is a bit low, I've never ever heard of anyone regularly filling 18 gallons into their Tacoma. Most fill about 16 gallons once the gas light comes on for a while.

btw-awesome build on the camper. It is all the more impressive because you did it without a full blown shop but rather with ordinary tools.

I have Alcan springs (9 leaves) and they handle loads wonderfully. I regularly tow 4-5000lbs with a 400lb tongue weight, and also occasionally haul a 650lb quad with my doublecab (which is about 400 lbs more than the excab, which would make it close to your weight). The springs work very well and hardly sag or sway.

One thing you might want to consider is upgrading your tires. The stock BFG Rugged Trails are fairly soft and probably induce quite a bit of sway. Also, more offset rims may help (although they in theory would add stress to your wheel bearings) with stability. I know that when I went from stock wheels to 3.75" backspacing rims, the stability increased tremendously.

Sorry for all the comments, but I really enjoyed browsing your blog site.

[Grim Reaper]

Thats false. All tacomas 1995.5 to 2004 have the same size gas tank.

You might want to check your facts. There are two tanks depending on the optioning of the truck.


Standard bed base model tacoma has a 15.8 gallon tank.
The higher option extended cabs and 4 doors had 18.5 gallon tank
Toyota tanks traditionally were the same length so they can be bolted in different models and frame length. The mounting points are the same on both frames and the senders and fittings would be the same location as well. The extra capacity is in the height of tank and shape. The 15.8 gallon tank would more then likely bolt into a extended cab without a problem. Also the base 2wd extended cab did come with the 15.8.
www.edmunds.com you can pull the specs by model and they list the tank sizes.

[toyrunner95]

realistically, any thing will fit in anything with the right persuasion, like scott and his BFH, however. it may mean sacrificing space somewhere else. honestly i would try and re arrange the tank to another spot or get a different tank, like a plastic one. or a custom aluminium one. these might even solve part of the weight problem.

gimmi a torch, a hammer, and a welder. ill make er fit.

[Super Doody]

You might want to check your facts. There are two tanks depending on the optioning of the truck.


Standard bed base model tacoma has a 15.8 gallon tank.
The higher option extended cabs and 4 doors had 18.5 gallon tank
Toyota tanks traditionally were the same length so they can be bolted in different models and frame length. The mounting points are the same on both frames and the senders and fittings would be the same location as well. The extra capacity is in the height of tank and shape. The 15.8 gallon tank would more then likely bolt into a extended cab without a problem. Also the base 2wd extended cab did come with the 15.8.
www.edmunds.com you can pull the specs by model and they list the tank sizes.


Those are called "minis". If look at the second picture here you will see that there are only 5 lungs nuts for the wheels.

http://www.edmunds.com/used/1995/toyota/tacoma/4538/photos.html#.

I mention this in my OP about this subject. However, I was wrong about the name.

[Grim Reaper]

Those are called "minis". If look at the second picture here you will see that there are only 5 lungs nuts for the wheels.

http://www.edmunds.com/used/1995/toyota/tacoma/4538/photos.html#.

I mention this in my OP about this subject. However, I was wrong about the name.


"minis"?????.....
:smilies27

I don't even know what to say to that.............

The 5 lug "minis" is on the left. http://www.toyota.com/tacoma/index.html?s_van=GM_TN_TACOMA_INDEX

[SuperCamperos]

Ok. Got a new fuel tank. The gauge was about 1/16th inch above empty and I filled it up--took 15 gallons. Does this seem about right for the 18.5 tank? I know its gonna be more than the 15.8 gallon tank and I think there are only two sizes so I think I'm set.

Secondly, I've added two cross straps to the frame as shown in the pics. I've come to realize that by taking the bed off I've lost the one big shear panel of the entire frame. THe cab's on rubber mounts and the non-gusseted frame cross members do very little for frame racking, so I've added some straps. I don't think the frame would have tweaked quite as much in the accident if i had the bed on and hopefully these straps will compensate a bit.

Next I'm getting ready to weld on a doubler (fish?) plate onto the frame's outboard side and then box on the inside side where the plate ends until the spare tire cross member. Its essentially the same distance used by the Demello reinforcement, but switches over to a box halfway through. I did this because I want a box section in the aft section so I can put a tube thru the box to attach my anti-sway bar with a rod end. The truck felt so much better on the highway with the sway bar that I intend to put it back on even though I plan to do some suspension upgrades which will definitely help sway as well.

So after the welding, the camper is going back on (they've been apart too long) and then to Deaver for some add-a-leaf suspension tuning. Probably get some bilstein 5100s as well.

Tires: Probably getting BFG AT KOs (265/70R16), since one of my rugged trails is destroyed and might as well change 'em up now. Is that 65 psi D load rating gonna ride rough on the highway? We're mainly doing the highway/beach sand thing and the rugged trail T/As are almost passable for this. Got compressor for air down BTW.

Hoping to get this thing ready for mainland mex in may...I'm glad I don't have as much to do as Allochris--you're kicking *** man! keep up the momentum...

ryan

[Wanderlusty]

Thought about stepping up to 265/75's?

Should be minimal price difference, same width, and one inch taller, or about 1/2 inch from hub to ground.

From what I have heard, these can be mounted with no rubbing at all. Just a hair taller. Every little bit helps.

I doubt that the extra 1/2 inch would cause you any problems as far as COG. Just a thought.

[SuperCamperos]

Yeah good point on the 265/75s. half inch is a fairly large percentage of ground clearance and probably negligible for CG.

But the CG thing was why I was thinking smaller. (and they might keep me out of the burger king drive thru, which is probably a good thing).

maybe i will step it up...

[toyrunner95]

so what did you do about the frame? did u bolt on a new rear half or what?

[allochris]

Hoping to get this thing ready for mainland mex in may...I'm glad I don't have as much to do as Allochris--you're kicking *** man! keep up the momentum...

ryan

Hey Ryan, after finding your website last november or so (from brian894x4 on 4x4wire.com, you are pretty much the ONE who actually initiates me into my current project right now. Having lived out of a truck in BC for 8months with just a fiberglass topper ski-bumming in the winter & tree-planting in the summer, the making of my current project is like building an enhanced version of my future mobile home i guess. Glad to see you're making progress too! We only have about 4weeks left b4 road trip! :elkgrin:

[SuperCamperos]

The frame just got straightened. Seems like a pretty good job. It's aligned and doesn't pull. I went and watered down the alley behind our apartment and drove thru it and it only left two tire tracks which is a good thing. Only thing that is a little out of whack is the RH leaf shackle is squeaking when I bounce it, but should hopefully wear into place.

Chris--sleeping in a fiberglass shell for 8 months? You of all people deserve a little head room! You will be stoked once you get your rig dialed in--looking great so far. Let me know if you have any questions I might be able to answer to keep you on schedule. Researching the little details can take forever...

[p1michaud]

Time for a bump on a cool build.

It's been a long time and I've noticed that their blog has been updated.
The Supercamper is back in action as of November 2007!

Good stuff.

[TACODOC]

Time for a bump on a cool build.

It's been a long time and I've noticed that their blog has been updated.
The Supercamper is back in action as of November 2007!

Good stuff.


Nice.

[HMR]

Saw the Super Camper on the road this weekend and was reminded of what an amazing rig it is.

WELL DONE!

[austintaco]

I know this is an old thread, but I just had to comment on how cool that camper is. Like many others have said, I will be reading the entire build process later tonight. Wow!

[ersatzknarf]

Agree 100% ! I have read the whole thing several times, as well as the videos. It's great what they did. It is very inspiring.

[Bike_Mech]

As I begin to finalize plans for our camper I'm trying to get specifics on some of the builds I have admired on here for awhile. Is the entire structure built with nida-core and then joined at the edges with fiberglass cloth and resin? I see the angled aluminum for the edges, but that's not structural is it?

What weight fiberglass cloth did you use?

Thanks
-Chris

[ETAV8R]

wow reading the blog about the build up now.
Very nice and ingenuitive

[PAToyota]

Is the entire structure built with nida-core and then joined at the edges with fiberglass cloth and resin? I see the angled aluminum for the edges, but that's not structural is it?

Go to their blog and read the beginning - September 2006 - portions. It shows it going together from the very beginning in pretty good detail.

[southpier]

has there been any construction flaws detected after 4 years of use? has the material & construction methods lived up to expectations? has it been discovered that a skin on frame assembly will stand up better - or worse to on-road dynamics?

i was under the assumption the Supercamper was a rolling laboratory and we''d be expecting updates as time allowed

[ersatzknarf]

Those are good questions. You should send them a note (check their profile, too).
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=47550&postcount=31

[SunMan]

I spent over a week camped near them in Baja this winter. Got some up close time with the Supercamper and it is indeed well made and thought out. They had no complaints about anything failing thus far. I don't think it gets used all that often though. Very sweet rig.

[southpier]

Those are good questions. You should send them a note (check their profile, too).
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=47550&postcount=31

i checked the website (dated '06) and the most recent blog (1-'10) and like after like 30 seconds like couldn't like stand like listening to like it like ...


i'll just assume that i've asked rhetorical questions, and go with it . . . like

[Ford Prefect]

Yeah, it is a very cool rig.

They are a nice couple as well. I am sure that if you write to him he will answer any questions you may have.

As for the use of the camper, they bought a place in south america, so they are out of the country on a lot of their vacation time now, thus not much time to use the camper anymore. Ryan said that they would continue to use it on small trips, but as it is so much faster to fly down...

Suber cool camper, and a very worth while read.

[thebrassnuckles]

that thing is amazing!!!

i am envisioning a removeable version on top of a 1st gen 4runner...:drool: