DC Taco Drawer System build...

[flyingwil]

Time has come to start the build up of the drawer system on the Taco... so now come the research.

I'd like to discuss the following options I have:

Material, wood/metal both?
Sliding system? bearings, ect..
locking mechanism? (both locking in shut and securing)
hardware?



What are your thoughts?

[p1michaud]

Time has come to start the build up of the drawer system on the Taco... so now come the research.

I'd like to discuss the following options I have:

Material, wood/metal both?
Sliding system? bearings, ect..
locking mechanism? (both locking in shut and securing)
hardware?



What are your thoughts?

I'm sure you have seen Desertdude's slides (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5879&postcount=41) and drawer system for his Tacoma it may give you a few ideas and it's very nice!

I've been toying with the idea for a bit now and came up with a few variations. My goal was to keep my sleeping platform a la BajaTaco but include a set of sliding drawers to make access to gear and supplies easier. I've attached a sketch of the layout I had come up with while doing my research. Keep in mind these numbers on the drawings are pretty rough. The issue I have is that to keep my current sleeping platform height the inside dimension of each drawer would work out to 15.375" x 8.25" x 48". I would have liked to have more room for all the effort of building a drawer system.

I just had an idea, how about building them using a thinner version of the Nida-Core (http://www.nida-core.com/intro_static.htm) material they used Supercamper (http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/)? I'm not sure what the cost would be, but it would help reduce the weight.

Cheers :beer:,
P

[Grim Reaper]

My first question is: will it be exposed to the elements or will you have some sort of bed cover?

If its covered and you are handy with wood that is the way to go.

If it is at all exposed to the weather I would look at going steel or possibly Aluminum for the shell and internnaly you could get away with wood for the drawer boxes.

[Mlachica]

Hey Wil,

As you know I'm still planning mine as well...Thanks a lot to Desertdude and some co-workers these are the materials and plans...

The top/bottom/walls will be constructed of 3/4" ultralite mdf...
1.5" screws
really good wood glue
leevalley drawer slides (http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=46578&cat=3,43614,43616&ap=1)
drawers will be constructed of a 1/2" hardwood
coat it with something like hurculiner

With the tailgate closed it will hold the drawers tightly shut. (eliminating a latch)

[Desertdude]

Thanks Mark - I also included a pair of hasps/locks on the tailgate to keep it secure in the cities and along the washboard if needed -

after almlost a year I have no complaints even in heavy rains and dust


small tip ; ..keep it simple, light and removable

Drawers (http://homepage.mac.com/desertdude/PhotoAlbum117.html)

[devinsixtyseven]

if you have an industrial plastic manufacturer in your area, delrin and other polys are very, very easy to work with, and much stronger than comparable density wood. how about aluminum sheet and plastic or honeycomb type material, or similar? youll go through the same cutting/assembly process as with wood, but the result will be stronger, lighter and probably take up less space.

youll need a lot of small bolts and angle brackets, tho...

here's another thought...what about a box that holds several wire baskets that can be slid in and out on a rail or bearing? that way you only need to make the box.

-sean

[flyingwil]

Thanks Mark - I also included a pair of hasps/locks on the tailgate to keep it secure in the cities and along the washboard if needed -

after almlost a year I have no complaints even in heavy rains and dust


small tip ; ..keep it simple, light and removable

Drawers (http://homepage.mac.com/desertdude/PhotoAlbum117.html)

Dude, What are you using to secure the drawer system to the bed?

[Desertdude]

I have this spare tire/highlift carrier which is attached to the rails of the tent rack - it sits across the bed just behind the aux box ( so it is centered) the drawer box lays just under it by "hair" - I have simple conduit brackets around the 1.25 tubing then screwed into the box - the sides are an exact fit between the wheel wells - it is such a tight fit it has not moved either way.

[Mlachica]

I have this spare tire/highlift carrier which is attached to the rails of the tent rack - it sits across the bed just behind the aux box ( so it is centered) the drawer box lays just under it by "hair" - I have simple conduit brackets around the 1.25 tubing then screwed into the box - the sides are an exact fit between the wheel wells - it is such a tight fit it has not moved either way.

clever:bowdown:

My intentions are using either 1/4" or 3/8" ss nuts and bolts. I may countersink the bolt heads so they do not interfere with drawer function.

I believe there are nuts that have "teeth" and can be nailed into the wood so you can use fine thread bolts for more frequent removal. I haven't found the name of them yet, maybe somebody knows what I'm talking about. It may not be useful for assembly of the deck but may be good for mounting stuff like an extremeaire :orngartis

edit: they're called t-nuts (http://www.boltdepot.com/T-Nuts.aspx)

[flyingwil]

The top/bottom/walls will be constructed of 3/4" ultralite mdf...

I am concerned about water causing the wood to swell. If coated with a roll on bed linner, how water-tight of a seal is that? (I am sure it is the best option though).

[Desertdude]

I used exterior CDX 3/4 ply - I used 3 coats of Hurc - the truck bed is ribbed so the bottom does not really rest in water - I have the drawers set back in the box about 1.5 inches - the box edge is super close to the tailgate so when the tailgate is closed it makes a nice seal for dust and water - so far for the money and time it has weathered real well - no swelling or water inside

I have even been to the car wash and power-washed the box to remove the dust and dirt - no problems so far :ar15:

[flyingwil]

I'm sure you have seen Desertdude's slides (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5879&postcount=41) and drawer system for his Tacoma it may give you a few ideas and it's very nice!

I've been toying with the idea for a bit now and came up with a few variations. My goal was to keep my sleeping platform a la BajaTaco but include a set of sliding drawers to make access to gear and supplies easier. I've attached a sketch of the layout I had come up with while doing my research. Keep in mind these numbers on the drawings are pretty rough. The issue I have is that to keep my current sleeping platform height the inside dimension of each drawer would work out to 15.375" x 8.25" x 48". I would have liked to have more room for all the effort of building a drawer system.

I just had an idea, how about building them using a thinner version of the Nida-Core (http://www.nida-core.com/intro_static.htm) material they used Supercamper (http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/)? I'm not sure what the cost would be, but it would help reduce the weight.

Cheers :beer:,
P

P-
Like the sketch! What program did you make that in? I am thinking of a one drawer unit with my engel on the other side.

[erin]

How well does the MDF board hold up to water, even water vapor. From experience installing Granite countertops in kitchens, we will never put our stone over any kind of press board, only ext. grade plywwod. it seems that the press material just soaks up any kind of moisture and expands, especially around the edges.
I think if this material was to be used, I would seal the inside with a thinner material, so as not to cause interference problems and really seal the outside like Desertdude did on his.
I do think that due to weight and strength of this material, you could probably get away with 5/8" instead of 3/4", and come out the same weight wise as plywood. As I remember, MDF is HEAVY.

[p1michaud]

P-
Like the sketch! What program did you make that in? I am thinking of a one drawer unit with my engel on the other side.

Wil,
I used Microsoft Office Viso 2003 to make the drawing, then "printed" it straight to a .pdf file. It's a half decent program, but you can't get too technical with it. One cool feature of this program is that I was able to use it to optimize my wood use by drawign all the pieces and put them together on 4' x 8' sheets of plywood then it was like a puzzle, check out the attached sketch.

I should point out the legend for my first sketch:
Black - The black hatched area is a permanent storage compartment that would have either one or two lids for access to gear, water, etc...
Yellow - The yellow hatched area is the main frame or box that would house the drawers
Red - The red areas are the drawer slides
Blue - The blue hatched areas are the drawers

Hope this all makes sense.
Cheer :beer:,
P

[Mlachica]

How well does the MDF board hold up to water, even water vapor. From experience installing Granite countertops in kitchens, we will never put our stone over any kind of press board, only ext. grade plywwod. it seems that the press material just soaks up any kind of moisture and expands, especially around the edges.
I think if this material was to be used, I would seal the inside with a thinner material, so as not to cause interference problems and really seal the outside like Desertdude did on his.
I do think that due to weight and strength of this material, you could probably get away with 5/8" instead of 3/4", and come out the same weight wise as plywood. As I remember, MDF is HEAVY.

A cabinet maker told me that ultralite mdf is lighter than plywood/stronger and resiliant to water as long as it's coated. Is this not true? If not, then I'd rather use exterior grade plywood...

[Desertdude]

as long as you are coated it is all good - that product is used for outdoor signs - but I always like to used exterior plywood in case I miss something in the coating process... ;)

[erin]

It is possible that they changed the glue to form it, but I remeber it used to absorb water like a sponge, but it has been a few years since I have worked with it. It is great material in the right instances, I would just research it to make sure. There are probably different grades to suit different requirements also. It always seemed to be heavier, but I could be wrong having never weighed it to compare correctly.

[flyingwil]

Wil,
I used Microsoft Office Viso 2003 to make the drawing, then "printed" it straight to a .pdf file. It's a half decent program, but you can't get too technical with it. One cool feature of this program is that I was able to use it to optimize my wood use by drawign all the pieces and put them together on 4' x 8' sheets of plywood then it was like a puzzle, check out the attached sketch.

I should point out the legend for my first sketch:
Black - The black hatched area is a permanent storage compartment that would have either one or two lids for access to gear, water, etc...
Yellow - The yellow hatched area is the main frame or box that would house the drawers
Red - The red areas are the drawer slides
Blue - The blue hatched areas are the drawers

Hope this all makes sense.
Cheer :beer:,
P

Sweet! Thanks for the reply.

[flyingwil]

It is possible that they changed the glue to form it, but I remeber it used to absorb water like a sponge, but it has been a few years since I have worked with it. It is great material in the right instances, I would just research it to make sure. There are probably different grades to suit different requirements also. It always seemed to be heavier, but I could be wrong having never weighed it to compare correctly.

:iagree:

Let me know if you find anything out.

[slosurfer]

Once that mdf gets wet, it will expand like crazy and then start falling apart. Even if it's coated, it only takes one little weak spot in the coating for it to soak in the water and then it is toast. I would be worried about keeping it sealed if it was in the back of a truck exposed to the elements. I install tile and I hate working around mdf because of the water issue.

[HongerVenture]

I would make every effort to make your drawers the full length of the bed. Leaving an additional storage compartment fore of the drawers becomes something of a hassle.

Wil, I believe you will have a can-back, which may allow easy access to a storage compartment fore of the drawers, so it may not be as bad for you.

In the following picture, you can see the double-door opening to the forward compartment in my deck/storage system. The hard-shell means you have to climb in for access... not to mention that when the bedding is on there, you have to move it aside or pull it out to reach things in those compartments. While those compartments offer generous additional room to my wife and I, they are the worst place to access.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/honger01/TruckCamper/FinishedSetup.jpg

So unless you can access a compartment/storage like this from the side of the bed, then I'd say make your drawers full length, extending to the back of the bed. I'm heavily considering eliminating the totes (which actually work out great) and forward compartment in favor of full length drawers.

Regards,
Joel

[flyingwil]

Any one know how to use Nida-Core to build the drawers?

[TACODOC]

Any one know how to use Nida-Core to build the drawers?

Ask the SuperCamperos! :punk03:

[CLynn85]

Nida-core is some interesting stuff, they make a few different products. I got a free sample kit a while back, need to inquire about pricing. As mentioned, the supercamper couple oughta be able to provide some good insight once their ordeal gets straightened out.

[Willman]

Once that mdf gets wet, it will expand like crazy and then start falling apart. Even if it's coated, it only takes one little weak spot in the coating for it to soak in the water and then it is toast. I would be worried about keeping it sealed if it was in the back of a truck exposed to the elements. I install tile and I hate working around mdf because of the water issue.

Great point!!!

[Willman]

After reading through this thread.....I have decited to go with aluminum for my frame and drawer system. I will save a ton of weight and still be super strong! I will have access to a tig welder when i move to SLC in the spring! Then i will use a piece of 1/2" or 5/8 cdx covered in carpet for the top. I am still in the design stage mode...looking for the best system to go with.....

Then on the other hand.....I have also thought about building some Pork Chop boxes out of aluminum as well to ride above the flender instead of the raised bed idea. This also has its pro's and con's.....Just kicking around some ideas...

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f374/nicwillman/20e538231d1d058027c9f143b0262b9b.jpg

[SuperCamperos]

Nida Core is good stuff and easy to work with if you are familiar fiberglass and polyester or epoxy resins. If you are not, some experimenting with the resin's cure times and behavior would definitely be required.

Cutting the nida core is as easy as cutting plywood, though is very itchy and dulls blades like crazy--use carbide tipped blades only.

I would recommend using aluminum angle on the corners to keep it tough. Nida Core is very rigid and strong but wont take impacts too well.

We used some 1/2" sheets with 18 oz of glass on each side for some of our cabinets in the camper. It weighs a little under 1 lb a square foot. Cost for a 4' x 8' sheet was around $200. For our entire camper, the shipping from florida was also around $200--so factor that in.

For latches, slides, etc check out McMaster-Carr...
http://www.mcmaster.com/
I don't know if everyone is familiar with this place, but it is so helpful for so many things. In LA at least, orders show up the next day and shipping is very reasonable.

Another idea I've been throwing around is using those styrofoam EPS insulation sheets from Home Depot, laminating with 18 oz glass and Epoxy resin (polyester won't work), and creating the poor man's Nida Core. It wouldn't have quite the compressive strength, but you could put a thin sheet of lineoleum or something on the bottom of the tray. You could probably do this for around $60 a sheet. Definitely experimental though...

Ryan
http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/

[haven]

Too bad the Taco doesn't have 48 inches between the wheel arches in
the bed. Trucks that do can use a pair of sliding drawers from Tuffy.

http://www.tuffyproducts.com/images/truckbox/115_second_detail.jpg

They are available in 4, 6 and 8 foot lengths. Capacity is 500 lbs of gear
per drawer when fully extended. The drawer can support 550 lbs on top and still slide in and out.

http://www.tuffyproducts.com/truckbox/115.html

I suppose you could use one 6 foot Tuffy drawer in a Taco, and fill the
remaining space with plastic storage boxes.

CHip Haven

[slomatt]

Greetings,

I just stumbled across this board and now can't stop reading posts, there is some great information on here.

Has anyone made their drawer system out of apple core or baltic birch plywood? These high grade plywoods are ligher and stronger than standard CDX and use an exterior grade glue. They are commonly used to build drawers, are fairly easy to machine, and hold an edge well.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=669

I'm in the process of selling a Jeep ZJ and moving to a 3rd gen 4runner because of reliability concerns with the jeep. Once I track down a 4runner that meets my needs the plan is to build a storage setup using birch plywood. I think 1/2" should be ok for the deck assuming it is braced underneath, this combination should work out to be lightweight and strong. The drawers will also be 1/2" birch ply and will use full-pull server rack sliders (free from work).

As previously stated, MDF has issues with water absorption and when wet quickly expands and falls apart. Also, some MDF is still made with a formaldehyde based glue which off-gasses for quite a while and can be harmful to your health. Another issue is that MDF does not hold screws well and requires a large amount of glue because of its high absorption level.

Anyway, great site. I look forward to reading more!

- Matt

[nvprospector]

Hello,

Being an ex- rover owner, I bowered the African Outback brand of cargo boxes design. They are way over priced, but can be built for around $200 if you look around for the metal. I am now building a set '07 taco dc. You are using thin gage aluminum and all you need to bend the metal is a 2x4 and a torch to heat the metal. For about the same or little more then the price of wood, you can get aluminum. Most metal shops will have scrap piles that you can rummage through for a small fee.

You can find some nice pictures of the African Outback cargo system at http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/africanoutback/

I usally get my metal online HERE (http://www.metalsdepot.com/)

Later

[flyingwil]

Hello,

Being an ex- rover owner, I bowered the African Outback brand of cargo boxes design. They are way over priced, but can be built for around $200 if you look around for the metal. I am now building a set '07 taco dc. You are using thin gage aluminum and all you need to bend the metal is a 2x4 and a torch to heat the metal. For about the same or little more then the price of wood, you can get aluminum. Most metal shops will have scrap piles that you can rummage through for a small fee.

You can find some nice pictures of the African Outback cargo system at http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/africanoutback/

I usally get my metal online HERE (http://www.metalsdepot.com/)

Later

Do you have picture of your set up?

[nvprospector]

Unfortunately I don’t have pics of my disco’s setup. Had a hard drive crash back in April of ’06 and lost a lot of my old vehicles builds. I will be doing a write up with prices on the one for the taco when I finish the project, which does not help this person asking the question for his cargo box. Currently I am still doing measurements and pricing of some of the hardware and materials I will need. Will say this, prices sure have gone up since I last did this back in ’03. Oh well, this taco will sure be a lot cheaper to maintain and modify than the disco so that is a big plus.

[j_nigrelli]

right about staying away from MDF - it's basically untempered masonite [although the techies will be certain to point out the specific differences]. MDO is used for signs; it is phenolic resin saturated kraft paper applied to A-B exterior ply. like any laminate, it's the edges to be careful sealing. West System Epoxy works well.

unless it's marine grade plywood, most of the cabinet grade plywoods mentioned are not decay resistant woods. i know it isn't the same application as direct exterior exposure, but then it really is!

but unless the drawers are in a covered environment, go with metal-aluminum. there are not only static forces to resist, but dynamic forces introduced even while closed.

[nvprospector]

The best material I have seen and used is DuraPoly by PolyMax. The stuff is UV resistant and waterproof plastic that is used in Car washes, milking parlor's and hog barns. It is easy to work with, can handle a lot of force and mistreatment. A sheet of 4'x8'-1/16" is only $19.95 at most agriculture shops and most likely be found cheaper online. 1/16"' sounds thin, but when backed with a simple aluminum cross lattice would make the system very strong and extremely light. You can, if you felt the need to get a thicker board, get it up to 3/4" thick.

[flyingwil]

The best material I have seen and used is DuraPoly by PolyMax. The stuff is UV resistant and waterproof plastic that is used in Car washes, milking parlor's and hog barns. It is easy to work with, can handle a lot of force and mistreatment. A sheet of 4'x8'-1/16" is only $19.95 at most agriculture shops and most likely be found cheaper online. 1/16"' sounds thin, but when backed with a simple aluminum cross lattice would make the system very strong and extremely light. You can, if you felt the need to get a thicker board, get it up to 3/4" thick.


Can you post a link? I can't seem to find it when I googled it!

[nvprospector]

Would of helped if I gave you the name of the company and not the product to help with your search. But here is the link for the company website for you.Parkland Plastics (http://www.parklandplastics.com/polywall.shtml)


These are the people I usally by the product from. FarmTek (http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ft1_building_material-ft1_polymax_plastic_wallboard;pgxr1030.html)

[Willman]

After reading through this thread.....I have decited to go with aluminum for my frame and drawer system. I will save a ton of weight and still be super strong! I will have access to a tig welder when i move to SLC in the spring! Then i will use a piece of 1/2" or 5/8 cdx covered in carpet for the top. I am still in the design stage mode...looking for the best system to go with.....

Then on the other hand.....I have also thought about building some Pork Chop boxes out of aluminum as well to ride above the flender instead of the raised bed idea. This also has its pro's and con's.....Just kicking around some ideas...

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f374/nicwillman/20e538231d1d058027c9f143b0262b9b.jpg

Well..I have made it to the wonderful land of Utah!!! What a great place with ALOT to explore!!!! Here is my rear bed system that i am going to start fabbing up soon. My goal is to have it done before the Trophy...or unless school conflicts......

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f374/nicwillman/Tacomabedconfig.jpg

Another thing i am thinking of adding is a roll on bed liner before i start this project. A bedrug or a sparyin liner have crossed my mind....They both are very $$$...so i think i need to look into a do-it-your-self liner...Anybody have any experience in these types of liners?

:D

[Super Doody]

Would of helped if I gave you the name of the company and not the product to help with your search. But here is the link for the company website for you.Parkland Plastics (http://www.parklandplastics.com/polywall.shtml)


These are the people I usally by the product from. FarmTek (http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ft1_building_material-ft1_polymax_plastic_wallboard;pgxr1030.html)


How do you build with it? Screws and nails?

[nvprospector]

How do you build with it? Screws and nails?

You build with it like you would wood. Most of the time I use screws because they hold better.

[mightymike]

Anybody have any experience in these types of liners?

Willman-

FWIW, I used some Herculiner on a work truck and was pretty disappointed with it. We were very meticulous about prepping the truck but the product started peeling off within a few months. Some folks on the Jeep forums have had some good things to say about Durabak, but I have no personal experience with that product. Several friends have Rhino Liner and LineX and have found them to be outstanding. LineX apparently even has some Mil Spec applications, but they are both pretty pricey.

Mike

[flyingwil]

Several friends have Rhino Liner and LineX and have found them to be outstanding. LineX apparently even has some Mil Spec applications, but they are both pretty pricey.

Mike

Rhino Linings is a bit of thicker and softer liner, where LineX seems to be a bit harder compound. IIRC Rhino is designed to help reduce vibrations, and LineX was designed for the Military.... could be way off though.

[Willman]

Anybody have any experience in these types of liners?

Willman-

Some folks on the Jeep forums have had some good things to say about Durabak, but I have no personal experience with that product. Mike

Thanks! Might have to look into that Durabak brand! It would be nice to seal up the bed for water crossings etc before i put my bed system in....Just a peace of mind...

:REExeSwimmingHL:

I wounder if adding more coats would make it stronger?????

[flyingwil]

OK... I think I finally got it squared away.

Attached is my post-it graph sheet for my bed layout and build... and I would like to know what you guys think.

The whole thing will be a platform at about 11" high and flat when the Engel is removed. It will be hinged to allow access to the water pump and Extremeaire. Not pictured is the 2 gal air tank, which I still do not know if I am going to use or not.

The whole platform design is to accommodate more storage, and the ability to take the dogs for a ride when in town and the Engel is removed (4 turnbuckles).

What do you guys think?

[Kermit]

Wil,

Did you ever think of mounting the compressor and the H2O pump under the truck? Would free up some space.

[Nuclear Redneck]

I think that I would make the one drawer go all the way back to the battery. That way you have easier access to your stuff, without having to go into the bed to get it.

Cheers,

[flyingwil]

Wil,

Did you ever think of mounting the compressor and the H2O pump under the truck? Would free up some space.

I worry about them get getting ripped off by rocks... The compressor I would worry about a $400 being that exposed. Since I do not have anti-lock brakes I have thought about using the engine compartment, but think it is better left not exposed. I am thinking about placing the air tank under the truck... but need to figure out the aux fuel tank first. Either way, both pumps will be mounted so that they can be moved.

[Kermit]

I worry about them get getting ripped off by rocks... The compressor I would worry about a $400 being that exposed.
Ahh...I hear you there. I always wanted to sink some metal boxes through the bed floor. So I could use the wasted space under the bed, but still have whatever it is in those boxes protected. Like a trunk in the Honda Ridgeline. You could use some of the smaller ammo cans, and drop them through the floor and weld them to the bed floor.

I also thought of cutting some cubby holes in the side of the bed, like the 4Runners have.