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View Full Version : $150 Flip Pac Build (sort of)



red87
11-10-2009, 06:52 AM
Hey all,

As some of you might be aware, I recently scored a Flip Pac for $150. Granted, it needs some work, but hey, it was $150. You can't argue with that price. Anyway, I'll be making it livable again on a very tight budget by this site's standards. My deadline is the 18th of this month when I go up to Monterey for a class field trip. So far I've only succeeded in getting the shell mounted to the truck and fixing the door knob and getting the doors mostly right but I've only had one real day to work on it last Wednesday. Big thanks to Camper Center in Ventura for helping me out with the mounting. Their forklift made things way easier. In case anyone was looking, the guy that helped me showed me a Wildernest they have for a longbed Toyota. I can get you contact info if you want it. Plans include removing the roof rack to facilitate parking garage use, patching the holes in the tent, adding a couple of ammo cans in the bed to make up for the loss of my toolbox, some carpet (and hopefully padding) for the bed, cleaning it and making it smell less bad and replacing the things that need it. Now, on to the pictures!

The first picture when I got home and opened it up to air out and see how awesome it is:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0578.jpg


The support bracket for one end of one of the hammock poles has come off and the holes are all stripped out in the fiberglass so my plan here is to make a metal plate to replace the two holes the bracket used to mount to. I'll be attaching that with three screws.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0589.jpg


One of the support poles has a broken end where it attaches to the top:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0592.jpg


As you can see the inside of the shell needs a good cleaning:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0591.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0590.jpg


The front window also needs to be replaced:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0586.jpg


This is when I was test fitting the bottom half of the door frame and making sure the doors would still work:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0583.jpg


I had to remove an inch from the bottom of the door frame to work with the bumper CYi5 and I made recently. Dremels cut though fiberglass like butter btw :p

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0588.jpg


One of the door hinges only had one bolt holding it on so I went and bought three new ones to make sure it stays secure:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0587.jpg

red87
11-10-2009, 06:53 AM
Hit the image limit on my first post so here's my last two pictures for now.

This is my truck as it sits now:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0584.jpg


I also picked up a set of Scrubblades because of this site so we'll see how they work out:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0594.jpg


Who knew 80s Toyotas had a different way to mount windshield wipers than every other car EVER? That one took a couple trips to my local auto parts store to work out. Also, my truck rides soooo nice with that 250ish lbs sitting on the bed now. I'll post more updates as I get more stuff done.

Harp
11-10-2009, 10:07 AM
Nice project for $150. I like the door access in the back. as for the broken pole end check marine bimini canopy stores on line. They have all that hardware cheap. I did a bedrug for padding and carpet in the bed, it fits and it works great.

Bella PSD
11-10-2009, 11:58 AM
I love the rear doors. More pictures please!! The rear door was one of the main reason I build my Flip Pac the way I did. I have never seen a Flip with the rear doors, very cool. Yours has the Clamp downs to hold it shut on the back. That was the old way they did it. So yours is pretty old. Love the hardware for the pole supports too. The new ones are now plastic.

Louie


Hey all,

This is when I was test fitting the bottom half of the door frame and making sure the doors would still work:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0583.jpg

TACODOC
11-10-2009, 01:26 PM
Great find, looks to be the same vintage as Vince's due to the rear mounted cam-buckle closures. I really like those rear doors - they look to be factory original from FRP too :drool:

Awesome build, and I highly recommend making a trip to FRP and talking to Diane - they really like to see older models and are glad to help keep them on the road. They have excellent customer service :)

RMP&O
11-10-2009, 01:41 PM
sweet man...great score! I am jealous!! :drool:

Really like the rear doors....

Congrats! :victory:

dustboy
11-10-2009, 03:20 PM
If that's the one that popped up here a week ago near San Diego, I had my eye on it.. any closer and it would have been mine! mine!!!

Glad you nabbed it though, can't wait to see how you rehab it.

CYi5
11-10-2009, 03:56 PM
Oooo. I see a couple more options for license plate mounting now.

suntinez
11-10-2009, 04:24 PM
This is when I was test fitting the bottom half of the door frame and making sure the doors would still work:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/truck/DSCF0583.jpg



Great score! Congrats.

I'm really digging the rear doors too, the shape of the opening at the rear of the flippac looks to be more square than others I've seen. Is the "box" below the FP (where the lower hinges attach on the outside) part of the unit, or is that piece separate?

And what is that rack/ load bars about on the top? Where do they attach? They don't get in the way when you have it opened?

x2 on contacting Diane, very helpful. Some of those canopy brackets are custom made for FRP, but they are happy to provide them to you for their cost, or close to it.

Like Doc said, it does like the pre-FRP version of the flippac - when it was still part of six-pac.

red87
11-10-2009, 04:37 PM
The bottom of the door frame is a seperate piece from the rest of the shell. The roof rack will be coming off very soon as it puts my truck well over 7' tall and I'd like to still park in garages.


Oooo. I see a couple more options for license plate mounting now.

Don't you worry, I've got some sweet plans for my rear plate now...

ntsqd
11-10-2009, 06:18 PM
Those the lanes in Vta or Hollywood/Silverstrand?

The broken part looks like it could be std boat bimini (sp?) top hardware. Coast Chandelry, maybe Mares Marine, West Marine, etc.?

red87
11-10-2009, 06:55 PM
Good call, those were taken in Oxnard Shores. I think I'll hit up West Marine and see if they have anything for me.

keithk
11-10-2009, 07:56 PM
What is known about when those doors were available on Flippacs?

It seems they would be sooo much easier to use than climbing over the tailgate & ducking under the rear window on the current ones.

TACODOC
11-10-2009, 09:59 PM
What is known about when those doors were available on Flippacs?

It seems they would be sooo much easier to use than climbing over the tailgate & ducking under the rear window on the current ones.

Diane or Homer at FRP would know.

Bella PSD
11-11-2009, 12:21 AM
It seems they would be sooo much easier to use than climbing over the tailgate & ducking under the rear window on the current ones.

That's one of the big reasons I built a rear door for mine. Just did not want the hassle of a tailgate and glass every time I want to go in or out of the camper (heat lose, bugs too). And turns out I could have just got it from Flip Pac, if they could still do it!!

This is the first rear door I have ever seen.

Louie

red87
11-13-2009, 02:39 AM
Today's update is a good one. I went to West Marine and picked up the pieces to finally get the support struts mounted to my fenders so I can go into the sleeping area for the first time :wings:. It wasn't a lot of work but its a huge psychological boost to be able to actually use the Flip Pac. I also picked up some carpet and padding from behind a local carpet store for free. I don't think it would be too pleasant to step out of my nice warm bed onto a cold metal truck bed.

Note the nifty little pins I picked up too.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0595.jpg


Hard at work drilling holes in my truck.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0605.jpg


Finished.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0606.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0608.jpg


Those holes are my next big project and I'm not really looking forward to it. Any suggestions on the best way to sew patches over them? I've got some waterproof vinyl I'm going to use and I'm planning on getting a nice big curved needle and some waxed thread.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0596.jpg


I also noticed that the supports for the ends of the hammock poles are totally rusted out so that one more thing I should probably replace.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0597.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0598.jpg

Tomorrows jobs include cutting the carpet and hitting up the army surplus store to get some ammo cans.

Bella PSD
11-13-2009, 03:09 AM
Call Diane at flip Pac. I bet those hammock end supports are not that much. IE: The pin connectors for the support bars going to the hood/fenders that they sell new Flip Pacs with are only like $5.00. And the factory pin connectors are hidden between the fender and hood.

Check the sealant at the front of the Flip where the hinges are. Common cause for water leaks. If it looks dried out or loose, dig it ALL out and re seal it with really good silicone. I bet that’s what happened to your hammock end supports. Also on the hammock, you can remove it by sliding it from the rail system on the wall. Makes it easy to clean. Also study the way your flip closes together. It may have a slight bow in the center that will let water in. Easy fix here, just double up the weather stripping at any sign of separation of the two pieces coming together. You can also adjust the rear clamp turnbuckle’s to pull down more on the closed flip.

And if you tent patch does not work out you could buy the rain fly for the flip pac. Its about $250 and fits so good, those holes would not be a problem. You’re going to need it anyway if it rains. And if all else fails you order a new tent. I was quoted $600 this summer for a new one. Or take yours off and use it as a template to make a new one locally.

I bet it felt good to get it all opened up and secure!!

Louie

red87
11-13-2009, 03:43 AM
$5 for the brackets on the fenders? I spent way more than that on the ones I got, oops. Thanks for the tips on sealing the flip pac, I'm sure it needs some renovation there. When you say check where the hinges are for leaks, do you mean checking around the actual hinge pieces or just in the front?

robert
11-13-2009, 03:31 PM
Looking at where your larger holes are they look like the fabric is rotten. If that's the case you may have problems sewing a patch on, you have to get it wide enough to get into good material and if your material is starting to go bad each needle hole may enlarge when under tension. I have seen folks glue patches on with fabric glue and they hold just fine as long as the area isn't stretched. Either way, put a corresponding patch on the backside of it as well.

The two biggest reasons I've seen for the tent material to rot is unchecked mildew and getting some sort of foreign substance on the fabric; most folks don't have their tents open enough for UV to break them down. I would clean the material well with a mild detergent (whatever they recommend), rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry. I don't know if that company recommends treating the material, but there are products out there designed specifically for protecting tents.


Disclaimer- I've never even seen a Flip-pac in person but I have dealt with plenty of Westfalias over the years and, as you can imagine with VW buses, have seen all manner of repairs to the tents. :ylsmoke:

ntsqd
11-13-2009, 04:25 PM
There is a heat activated tape made for making sailboat sails that might be just the ticket for patching the holes. Can use an iron to set it. I built a couple control line kites using it and it is amazing!

red87
11-13-2009, 06:08 PM
So I should be looking into glues rather than stitching for the holes then. I can do that, I wasn't looking forward to sewing anyway :)

Bella PSD
11-13-2009, 11:13 PM
$5 for the brackets on the fenders? I spent way more than that on the ones I got, oops. Thanks for the tips on sealing the flip pac, I'm sure it needs some renovation there. When you say check where the hinges are for leaks, do you mean checking around the actual hinge pieces or just in the front?

Those support brackets you bought look way stronger than the Flip Pac ones. So don’t feel bad.

As for water leaks at the hinges, I am referring to the support hinges the torsion bar is attached too. The ones that go into the body of the camper. They are filled with silicone. Here is a picture.

http://www.bellaphotographics.com/FlipPacBuild/Camper_Build_Torsion_Bar_7-08_005.jpg

red87
11-14-2009, 12:14 AM
Filled huh? So I'm guessing its a bad thing that I can fit my pinky around the support hinges on the lid? The sealant looks terrible on the other end too so it looks like I have something else to do this weekend

Bella PSD
11-14-2009, 12:25 AM
Filled huh? So I'm guessing its a bad thing that I can fit my pinky around the support hinges on the lid? The sealant looks terrible on the other end too so it looks like I have something else to do this weekend

Ah yea, that's not good! It won’t take long to do but will make a huge difference with the water getting in.:snorkel:

Louie

ntsqd
11-14-2009, 03:53 PM
So I should be looking into glues rather than stitching for the holes then. I can do that, I wasn't looking forward to sewing anyway :)
I don't know that it will work here, but I mention it as an option that may worth looking into. There used to be a couple Sail lofts in the area, might see if they'll sell you a bit of it and try it out.

red87
11-14-2009, 11:55 PM
The last two days of work saw me get an ammo can to store my recovery gear in, cut and install carpet, fix the bracket the end of the hammock pole sits in and seal up the gaps around the hinges. When I bought the Flip Pac, the holes for the hammock pole bracket were completely stripped out so I cut a piece of metal to bolt the bracket to and then just screwed the ends of that into new holes in the Flip Pac.

Cutting carpet with scissors is terrible and I do not recommend it, my hand hurt like crazy when I was done.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0613.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0614.jpg

I purposely did not make the carpeting wrap around the wheelwells as I would like to easily roll it up if I put something wet or nasty in the bed and I don't really plan to step in those corners too often. You can see the ammo can all bolted in in this pic too:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0616.jpg


This is all the stuff that fits in there with a little room to spare

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0617.jpg


This is the bracket I cut out of some metal I had laying around. These are before I cleaned and painted the metal, obviously. Pay no mind to the non-square cuts, I'm working with a dremel and no workbench or anything that would make cutting jobs easier.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0618.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0619.jpg


The bracket all installed and doing its job great. One thing I didn't account for was that I have no way to get the the third screw I had planned for once the stock bracket is in place. Oops :sombrero:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0620.jpg


This is the sealant I now have all over my hands and my awesome sealing jobs. I just built up the sealant on itself to close the big gaps and it seems to be doing just fine in the 20 minutes since I've done it. It seemed to make pretty thick walls so I think it should be ok. It cures underwater so I expect to "dry" just fine tonight with the nice wet coastal breeze we always get.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0621.jpg

CYi5
11-15-2009, 05:19 PM
Diggin' the build thread, and since pics are always great, here is a small update on your rear bumper.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e194/CYi5/100_1453.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e194/CYi5/100_1452.jpg

I still need to weld it in, so you will need to pick it up on Tuesday, sorry. Plan accordingly for traffic ;), i'll probably be back around 2pm. Maybe you can test fit the 35's in the back too :D.

red87
11-15-2009, 06:35 PM
Siiiick, thanks man. I'll bring the floor jack and the breaker bar. Lets make my truck a monster.

ddawson
11-15-2009, 10:38 PM
Hey Red,

I too scored a pretty cheap Flippac that needed some attention. There are two things I would suggest you look into doing:

1. Re-seal the side windows. While washing mine I realized that the caulking material was pretty deteriorated and water was leaking through. I unscrewed all of the little screws on the inside and was able to remove the windows completely. I cleaned them up and then resealed. It is working well so far.

2. Remove the carpet that it came with. My carpet was filthy! I opened it up on a hot day and took the hose inside the cab and hosed the thing out. There was brown water from all of the dust that had accumulated inside it during the years. When the carpet was wet, I was able to start at a corner and pull it off of the walls. I had to use a razor and pliers a few times, but I got it all out. I went to Home Depot and spent about $50 on some nice blue indoor/outdoor carpet and a bucket of industrial strength carpet glue. I measured the walls and cut pieces to fit. I then glued and used a razor to fine tune the edges and windows.

If you have any questions let me know, I'm not too far away from you. Good luck!

-Danny

red87
11-16-2009, 01:00 AM
Oh cool, I never would've thought about the side windows, thanks. Good call on the carpet too, mine's disgusting.

ntsqd
11-16-2009, 01:47 AM
I used 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive/Sealant to reseal the shell windows on a previous truck. Worked great and never leaked. Then some bhuttmunch tried to break into the shell by breaking the window. I could not get the 5200 to let go in order to replace the window. I've since been told that a heat gun will get it to release enough that it can be cut. HTH.

red87
11-17-2009, 01:18 AM
Yesterday I finally got around to cleaning the inside of the Flip Pac the best I could and removed the roof rack and sealed the holes. I would've had those bars off earlier but the bolts had nuts on the inside that I needed a second person to hold for me. So now all I have left to do before I head out is get some fabric glue and fix the two biggest holes in the tent. Thankfully my Febreeze and Lysol attack seems to have eliminated most of the smell inside :) My crank should be here wednesday so opening and closing the tent will become way easier.

Here's my recently cleaned up roof. The marks you see where the rack was is just dirt and rust from them being there for so long. I waited to clean the outside until I can be sure the sealant is all cured.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0622.jpg

Bella PSD
11-17-2009, 01:46 AM
Looking good! So you were able to save the carpet?

Louie

red87
11-17-2009, 02:01 AM
I don't think "save" is the word I would use... I'm keeping it for now but it could definitely use some replacing.

red87
11-19-2009, 05:48 AM
So my crank came today. This of course means I can stop using a push broom to open and close my top :elkgrin: I had to wire brush the splines on the end of the torsion bar to get the crank on and off easily. The first time I tried it out the crank got stuck and required some "persuasion" to remove so I figured it was time to remove some corrosion. I also took a trip down to CYi5s place to finish and pick up my bumper and to add the one mod that makes my truck a legit expedition vehicle.


The almighty crank

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0626.jpg


Bumper competed with d-ring tabs

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0625.jpg


And the biggest mod of them all

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0623.jpg

neverestablished
11-19-2009, 07:56 AM
Sweet build, wish i could find even a regular shell for that price.

Im right down the street from you, right off victoria, let me know if you need any help since im curious to check out a flip pac in person too.

CYi5
11-19-2009, 07:59 PM
That crank is larger than expected. Then again, leverage is your friend when twisting that sucker open. Next mod = license plate ;).

Bella PSD
11-20-2009, 03:24 AM
Flip Pac has a small rubber cover for the splines on the end of the torsion bar. Helps keep it from rusting. I had the Flip Pac rubber cover for a while, lost it, then used a rubber bottom from a hobby horse toy. :)

Louie


I had to wire brush the splines on the end of the torsion bar to get the crank on and off easily. The first time I tried it out the crank got stuck and required some "persuasion" to remove so I figured it was time to remove some corrosion.

Jnich77
11-20-2009, 04:09 AM
I used 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive/Sealant to reseal the shell windows on a previous truck. Worked great and never leaked. Then some bhuttmunch tried to break into the shell by breaking the window. I could not get the 5200 to let go in order to replace the window. I've since been told that a heat gun will get it to release enough that it can be cut. HTH.

When i have to screw somethign into wood that will be under stress.. I coat the threads in 5200... the only bad part is if you ever have to back the screw out... not gunna happen...lmao

Maryland 110
11-21-2009, 01:44 AM
I used 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive/Sealant to reseal the shell windows on a previous truck. Worked great and never leaked. Then some bhuttmunch tried to break into the shell by breaking the window. I could not get the 5200 to let go in order to replace the window. I've since been told that a heat gun will get it to release enough that it can be cut. HTH.

Had the same problem with a boat window. There is a product called anti bond. Breaks the 5200 seal in seconds. Most boating places stock it.

ntsqd
11-21-2009, 02:09 AM
Had the same problem with a boat window. There is a product called anti bond. Breaks the 5200 seal in seconds. Most boating places stock it.
Good to know, Thanks!!

red87
11-22-2009, 07:24 PM
That crank is larger than expected. Then again, leverage is your friend when twisting that sucker open. Next mod = license plate ;).

Yeah that crank is surprisingly hefty but it better be for for $90 before shipping. The license plate will be coming soon along with a custom rain fly and a mattress cover.

Bella PSD
11-23-2009, 12:43 AM
Yeah that crank is surprisingly hefty but it better be for for $90 before shipping. The license plate will be coming soon along with a custom rain fly and a mattress cover.

A bit of advice, my crank has been left ON the torsion bar before and drove away! Also left on the back bumper. One time I left it at home and needed to open up the camper. I now have a rule that it has to remain in the camper when not in use. I am thinking I will paint it bright orange also....:coffeedrink:

I had no idea it was $90:Wow1:

red87
11-23-2009, 04:31 AM
Haha, I can see myself doing that. I've been keeping it behind my seat in the cab when I'm not using it to avoid such situations. I had to next day air the crank so after shipping it only cost like $15 less than my entire Flip Pac :)

red87
11-28-2009, 10:36 PM
Bad news guys, the Flip Pac died last Wednesday. I was opening it to show my friend's dad and the hinge ripped out of the shell. Apparently the sealant had been missing around the hinges long enough for the metal parts inside the shell to completely rust through. I guess its better it broke in my friend's driveway than somewhere in the wild. I called Flip Pac to see how much it would cost to repair and the lady told me $4-500 and I don't think she understood the extent of the damage. That's way out of my budget so unless someone can fix it for less than $200, this shell is going to be in the classifieds for parts for $150 OBO. Thanks for the advice everyone.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0635.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0639.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0637.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0638.jpg

Bella PSD
11-29-2009, 02:20 AM
WOW! That sucks!!!!!:Wow1:

It might be fixable?? Looks like the torsion bar is almost unsprung. Half way open and there is no twist or load on the bar. It would be safe to hammer the torsion bar out and relieve the little bit of tension on the flip that's getting ripped apart. Then you could at the very least get it closed. You could then also safely look and see if you could get a new hinge piece and what, if any damage, was done to where it mounts to the flip.

After that you have all the damage done to the tent, frame and fiberglass flip that split with the force from the torsion bar.

Just sucks! I think this is the coolest Flip Pac, with its rear doors, I have seen!!

IdaSHO
11-29-2009, 04:00 AM
Ouch. Sorry to hear.

It looks perfectly fixable though.

But it will require some serious surgery.

red87
11-29-2009, 05:27 AM
WOW! That sucks!!!!!:Wow1:

It might be fixable?? Looks like the torsion bar is almost unsprung. Half way open and there is no twist or load on the bar. It would be safe to hammer the torsion bar out and relieve the little bit of tension on the flip that's getting ripped apart. Then you could at the very least get it closed. You could then also safely look and see if you could get a new hinge piece and what, if any damage, was done to where it mounts to the flip.

After that you have all the damage done to the tent, frame and fiberglass flip that split with the force from the torsion bar.

Just sucks! I think this is the coolest Flip Pac, with its rear doors, I have seen!!


Currently I have the flip ratchet strapped down so it should be fine for the drive back to socal tomorrow. I ended up using the crank to twist the torsion bar enough to let me get the strap tight enough to work. It looks like I would have the replace the entire metal piece inside the flip in addition to repairing all the broken fiberglass in the vicinity which is beyond my repair skills and financial means unfortunately.

ntsqd
11-29-2009, 03:31 PM
You have a PM.

robert
11-29-2009, 05:39 PM
Wow- that sucks. It looks like it would be a lot easier to just replace the top if the current models are the same size. Not saying you couldn't clean out all of that rot and epoxy it, but damn that would be a lot of work considering you're going to have to take it off anyways.

If I was close by I'd be interested in taking it off your hands, but I'm not.

red87
11-30-2009, 02:54 AM
Things are looking up for the time being. ntsqd has been nice enough to offer to help me fix this so hopefully I'll be able to add some more good news to this thread soonish.

IdaSHO
11-30-2009, 03:19 AM
Excellent news.

I was hoping something like this would happen. :ylsmoke:

CYi5
11-30-2009, 06:54 AM
Awwesome, I wanted to see it in the bush at least once before it went to the dump! Hope you're able to find a solution.

red87
12-06-2009, 08:58 PM
Met with ntsqd (great guy btw) today and it looks like the Flip Pac is fixable! I've got finals next week so I'll be starting the disassembly after that when I've got more free time.

ddawson
12-06-2009, 09:02 PM
That is very good to hear, I was bummed to see that happen.

fisher205
12-06-2009, 11:47 PM
Glad to hear this is working out. It's a great budget build.

Lynn
12-06-2009, 11:59 PM
Met with ntsqd (great guy btw) today and it looks like the Flip Pac is fixable!

Something told me he would be a great guy to know.

Glad your still going to be able to salvage this great camper.

a.mus.ed
12-07-2009, 03:09 AM
Go team ExPo!

Glides
12-10-2009, 08:21 PM
After reading this thread I am glad to hear that you can salvage it. Thats awesome. Keep us posted. :)

sami
12-10-2009, 08:35 PM
Congrats on the fixable issue! I got kinda somber as I read the ordeal..

Seth Kendall
12-10-2009, 09:25 PM
It's a Christmas miracle!

I was really sad when I saw the broken post. I know what it's like being a student, broke and still wanting to get off-road. It would have never happened for me if it weren't for ExPo members, and I'm glad to see it happening for you too. Thanks ExPo for being the community that cares.:wings::victory:

ntsqd
12-11-2009, 12:07 AM
Today coming out of the Post Office I spotted a Flip-pac on a (white) Taco and I got there just after the guy had gotten in it. I said "Cool!!" pointing to the Flip-pac and then noticed that his was also broken in the same spot, but short yet. He told me that he's ordered the parts and plans to fix it himself rather than spending the $500.

red87
12-11-2009, 12:19 AM
That's funny, I saw a guy with a silver Frontier yesterday with a Flip-Pac and his shell had broken there too. I never saw anyone else with one until I got mine and now I've seen like four in the past week.

CYi5
12-11-2009, 12:34 AM
I saw a wildernest on a mini truck the other day....or is wildernest a bad word in the flippac world ;)?

red87
12-11-2009, 01:08 AM
haha I think we're equal opportunity pop-up shell lovers here

ddawson
12-12-2009, 02:31 AM
So I have a couple of questions. In the photo it appears that the metal sheath is what broke causing the fiberglass damage. Is this what happened? If so, is the sheath piece available from FRP? Do you know if this is a common problem? I have noticed some flex on that same hinge on my flippac (mine is really old also), and I am thinking that I should just replace it to avoid a huge blowout like yours. I really hope you are able to fix it.

Thanks,

Danny

ntsqd
12-12-2009, 03:34 AM
The assembly is that the arm bolts(?) into a steel tube that is glassed into the top piece (lid?). The tube appears to extend quite a ways down the length of the lid. At least on Red87's that is the way that it is built. Given the other unique things about his Flip-pac it may not be a good sample of how they all are built. dunno.....

The one that I saw on the Taco that was broken, broke just an inch or so in from the forward facing edge of the top piece. Much shorter than red87's break. I looks to me, based on all two samples that I've seen, that when the seal between the arm and the fiberglass fails and allows water to get in is when the problem starts. I'd encourage all owners to really be diligent about keeping that seal water tight, even if the unit is just sitting by the wayside.

I wish that I'd thought to tell the Taco owner about this forum.

red87
12-12-2009, 07:22 AM
exactly what ntsqd said

TACODOC
12-12-2009, 04:10 PM
I'm interested to see how this turns out! :lurk:

ddawson
12-12-2009, 06:31 PM
The assembly is that the arm bolts(?) into a steel tube that is glassed into the top piece (lid?). The tube appears to extend quite a ways down the length of the lid. At least on Red87's that is the way that it is built. Given the other unique things about his Flip-pac it may not be a good sample of how they all are built. dunno.....

The one that I saw on the Taco that was broken, broke just an inch or so in from the forward facing edge of the top piece. Much shorter than red87's break. I looks to me, based on all two samples that I've seen, that when the seal between the arm and the fiberglass fails and allows water to get in is when the problem starts. I'd encourage all owners to really be diligent about keeping that seal water tight, even if the unit is just sitting by the wayside.

I wish that I'd thought to tell the Taco owner about this forum.

Thanks for the info. I hope you guys are able to fix Red's shell!

ntsqd
12-15-2009, 01:04 AM
I told Red87 about this firm, but I thought that I'd post the URL here for future reference.

http://www.fibreglast.com/

red87
12-15-2009, 01:11 AM
I've been looking at that place, its a good reference for someone like me who doesn't know the first thing about fiberglassing

red87
12-17-2009, 02:13 AM
While I'm in the midst of accumulating the stuff I need to tackle the big fix, I decided it was time my shell had a legit front window. ntqsd gave me a new one so I had the front part of a shell just hanging out in my garage waiting for the install. I didn't take too many pictures as I was attempting to beat sundown. That didn't happen due to some unforeseen difficulties.

Here you can see the old window with all the rivets drilled out. 34 of them. I learned today that I HATE drilling out rivets. It wouldn't be so bad but I was drilling them out from the backside as I can't really access the front of the shell without taking it off the truck. I did get to battle 4 stubborn rivets that didn't feel like be drilled out. Mr. Dremel made short work of them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0708.jpg


Luckily, the donor window was attached with screws and some not-so-strong adhesive so my sanity wasn't lost.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0711.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0710.jpg


Of course, the holes in the donor window were consistently around 1/8" off so I got to drill all new holes in the shell to rivet it back in. It also turned out to be slightly larger than the stock window so I also had the joy of trimming about 1/8" off most of the window hole in the shell.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/thatsnowinnebago/DSCF0712.jpg


Now I don't have to worry so much about water getting inside the bed when I'm driving. I did lose the functionality of a slider but I can live with that when the solid window was free. All that changes is that I need to plan ahead before I go to sleep. :D

Cacher
12-28-2009, 12:48 AM
$150.00? You are a lottery winner. Extremely nice grab for the money. I would tint the back windows, so nobody wants what they can see inside.

red87
12-28-2009, 01:47 AM
The back windows actually are tinted a little. Not limo tint by any means but definitely not clear.

labbe66
02-12-2010, 05:17 PM
I have found a Flip-Pac locally that I am looking into purchasing. The sealant is missing around the hinges and I can tell things are a bit rusty. I haven't investigated too thoroughly eyt but i would like to know what it would take to fix the hinge if it blows out like yours.

Thanks!

ntsqd
02-12-2010, 06:15 PM
Mike,
I hope Red87 doesn't mind me detailing the process that we've worked out. The end of the 'key' (if you will) is inserted inside of a rectangular steel tube that is laminated length-wise into the top section. In Red87's case the key and the tube rusted out and broke loose. I machined the key & the CRS blank to make a lap-joint weld, rather than a butt-weld, to extend it back to were I guessed the original length might have been. Going longer didn't seem like an issue and was a bonus to the application, so I wasn't too concerned or particular about OAL.

The next step is to drill the tube and thread the key to bolt them together. I'm hoping that we'll get to that this weekend. I'm planning to add some spacers to the outside of the tube around the holes so that the bolts will tighten directly onto the tube and not onto any composite. Then the job is to cut out the old tube remains and laminate the new one into place.
Note that the top portion of the shell is itself a two piece assembly bonded together. It appears to have some form of honeycomb material between the outer surface and the inner surface that the mattress lays on. This failure has already disturbed that, but if you're starting from less damage you may have that to contend with as well.

The way that the tube is placed in the top section and the way that the key attaches to it is what prompts me to caution owners that missing sealant should be addressed promptly. That is assuming that all are built the same way as this unit. If you can get light down into the gaps then look for rust in there. I'd also tilt it 1/2 way (straight up) and see if any water works it's way out. That would be a big indicator to me that it need more probing. Not sure about the anchor (pass.) side. Can't easily tilt it & can only assume that it is built the same way.

red87
02-12-2010, 09:40 PM
Couldn't have said it better myself

homemade
02-12-2010, 10:20 PM
The picture looking at the inside front of your flippac with the window partially removed and the carpet pulled back seems to show bare plywood. Is the lower portion of the flippac plywood covered on the inside with carpet and on the outside with a thin skin of fiberglass? If so, how thick is the plywood? Is the roof (which becomes the floor of the bed portion) a plastic honeycomb material with thin skins of fiberglass or is there plywood in the roof also? Thanks for the information, forums like this are often the only way to get any in-depth information about products without a manufacturer’s spin. The more I see of the flippac construction the less I like it, at least at the prices they command.

ntsqd
02-12-2010, 10:32 PM
Quite contrarily, I've been impressed with what I've seen of their construction. Given a blank sheet I don't know how I might do the torsion assembly differently. With reasonable preventative care I don't think that this would have become the problem that it is.

Bella PSD
02-13-2010, 12:02 AM
I have ripped apart my Flip Pac to build the rear camper door and other things and I have to say, the Flip Pac is build very, very well.:)

Louie


The more I see of the flippac construction the less I like it, at least at the prices they command.

red87
02-13-2010, 12:06 AM
The picture looking at the inside front of your flippac with the window partially removed and the carpet pulled back seems to show bare plywood. Is the lower portion of the flippac plywood covered on the inside with carpet and on the outside with a thin skin of fiberglass? If so, how thick is the plywood? Is the roof (which becomes the floor of the bed portion) a plastic honeycomb material with thin skins of fiberglass or is there plywood in the roof also? Thanks for the information, forums like this are often the only way to get any in-depth information about products without a manufacturer’s spin. The more I see of the flippac construction the less I like it, at least at the prices they command.

The yellow color is from the carpet adhesive I believe; the shell is 100% fiberglass. Also, it's good to keep in mind that my shell in particular is of a similar vintage to my truck (late 80s). It took 20+ years for the shell to fail in the way it did with the PO's poor maintenance. I wouldn't have any of the problems I'm having if he had replaced the sealant around the hinge at some point and replaced the weatherstripping when it wore out. When I picked it up, it was just sitting in the dirt with mice "evidence" all over it. One of them chewed up the mattress too to make himself a nice little bed.

homemade
02-13-2010, 12:26 AM
The yellow color is from the carpet adhesive I believe; the shell is 100% fiberglass. Also, it's good to keep in mind that my shell in particular is of a similar vintage to my truck (late 80s). It took 20+ years for the shell to fail in the way it did with the PO's poor maintenance. I wouldn't have any of the problems I'm having if he had replaced the sealant around the hinge at some point and replaced the weatherstripping when it wore out. When I picked it up, it was just sitting in the dirt with mice "evidence" all over it. One of them chewed up the mattress too to make himself a nice little bed.

Thanks for the clarification, the picture seemed to have the color and texture of plywood.

red87
04-01-2010, 05:15 PM
Sadly, the time has come for me to sell my flip-pac. My recent trip to death valley has shown me that the flip-pac isn't for me and I'm just tired of it being broken. I'll be posting it up the classifieds shortly.

Linky to the for sale thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=598469#post598469

FlatBlak
04-02-2010, 12:53 AM
Sorry to hear that. Your build was one of the main factors of my purchase. I have rebuilt a lot of things, cars, trucks, rv's, houses, etc. The FP's of this era with the double rear doors are most definately in need of a complete restoration. My rear doors were completely rotten and a few other things needed attended to.

If parts were more easily accessible I would have done more to mine. However I am over trying to deal with the poor service from the Flip Pac company. I am going to try AT and hope for the best.

Good luck with the sale, hope someone here picks it up. It is an ingenious design and absolutely perfect for my application, not everyone's, but for me I would even consider buying a new one if this one doesn't hold up.