Ice Climbing for the first time!!

[Willman]

My brother-in-law took me up ice climbing for the first time up Provo canyon, Utah! The locals call this climb Stairway to Heaven. Boy was that a blast and one heck of a workout! :REExeSquatsHL1: I'm still sore from climbing!! Just to get to the ice wall we had to climb this steep 500' rocky/snowy climb. Here's some pictures of the climb!

Brother-in-law showing me the ropes...Great climber that makes it look easy....Notice that he free climbs first to hookup the rope for me....nuts i say!!! :yikes: He told me....you just do not fall......

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f374/nicwillman/DSC02316.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f374/nicwillman/DSC02324.jpg

This was a great shot taken by my father-in-law from the road of me climbing !

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f374/nicwillman/IMG_6217.jpg

Overall it was time well spent! I had to rent the ice climbing gear totaling around $45 for the day. That day we climbed around 150' of ice. It was a great experience that i would love to take on in the future!

:REAdvRockClimber:

[melotaco]

:bowdown:

[Ursidae69]

Wow, I'm not sure I will ever be that crazy. :bowdown: Great photos!

[pwc]

Awesome!! I've been to the "Ice Day" or whatever it's called right up there at the Falls, when they have vendors and a man made 30' tower you can try out gear on. A good way to get hooked on it.

I love the different seasons in Utah.

[Willman]

Thanks guys!!

It was a lot of fun!!!

Thinking about buying me the gear for future climbs!!! I don't know if the wife is going to like that one or not???...oooh well...

:ylsmoke:

[calamaridog]

Very cool Nic!

So is that near Provo then?

[Willman]

Very cool Nic!

So is that near Provo then?

Your right! It is about an 10 min. drive from Provo up the canyon. It was a great quick place to climb.....I can't wait to move to UT....UT has a lot to offer as in outdoors!!!

:rappel:

:REOutArchery02:

:safari-rig:

:Astrologist:

:gunt:

:roost:

:truck:

:REAdvRockClimber:

:ar15:

And
:REExeSwimmingHL:

[JPFreek1]

Willman, isn't ice climbing a blast?! I went for my first time the week after you while I was in Colorado Springs. We climbed Helen Hunt Falls and while it was a pretty easy climb, I am absolutely hooked! Unfortunately for me, being in Houston, TX isn't conducive to ice climbing but now I have even more reason to hit up the mountains!

Glad you enjoyed your experience. :clapsmile

[Willman]

Willman, isn't ice climbing a blast?! I went for my first time the week after you while I was in Colorado Springs. We climbed Helen Hunt Falls and while it was a pretty easy climb, I am absolutely hooked! Unfortunately for me, being in Houston, TX isn't conducive to ice climbing but now I have even more reason to hit up the mountains!

Glad you enjoyed your experience. :clapsmile

Thanks my friend!!!!

Moving to Utah is going to have its edge on this one!!!!

:REAdvRockClimber:

[JPFreek1]

Ahh, I'm envious! :bowdown:

Keep us posted through pictures, etc. I'll be living vicariously through you until I can hit the ice up again!

Take care,

Frank

[tommym]

I have always wanted to try...Is it more difficult than rock? I think this year I will try! Any advice?

[kellymoe]

I have always wanted to try...Is it more difficult than rock? I think this year I will try! Any advice?

Good to see the thread revived. Ice climbing is so different than rock climbing that it's tough to say if it's harder or easier. If you come from a solid rock climbing background you will pick it up much faster or at least wont be as gripped out while climbing.

I prefer ice climbing and technical mountaineering but living in Southern California lends itself more to pure rock climbing. Either though is way fun and I always look forward to climbing no matter if it's rock or ice:)

[Flounder]

I have always wanted to try...Is it more difficult than rock? I think this year I will try! Any advice?
It's way different from rock climbing in my opinion. Rock climbing is about small muscle strength; your ability to hold micro ledges, crimpers, etc. Ice climbing uses larger muscle groups, but you're also wearing about 30 pounds of clothes and gear. The body movements are also waaaay different for TRADITIONAL ice climbing. Mixed climbing (very advanced) is more like traditional rock climbing. Traditional ice climbing is unique in the sense you make your placements based in large part on your reach, not just were the holds are. So that's different.

There's a definate technique to ice climbing. If you don't employ that technique you'll pump out and be stuck.

The gear involved is extensive and expensive. Not something you want to do once in a blue moon as you'll have $1000 of gear in your basement 362 days a year.

Ice climbing is also EXTREMELY dangerous for novice climbers. There's so much involved with regard to safety. In most areas, avalanche and ice-fall are major concerns. Lets not forget you're climbing with knives on all of your limbs. Then theres the cold temps, combersome clothes, limited daylight, etc. I think ice climbing promotes more stupid mistakes than rock climbing. More variables.

For those reasons, it's best to start in areas with super safe top rope options. I love the Ouray Ice Park for that reason. Super safe. Way different from boot-packing in for 3 hours to access a remote flow.

I think there's no better place to learn that Ouray, but I'm sure there's great places in the NE. Like anything, to "learn" to do it, you have to go often and hit a variety of flows. I probably climbed ice 10-25 times a year for a few years before I felt truly comfy on ice.

Have fun!

[Flounder]

By the way...if you're not top roping, falling on ice is just NOT an option. Ice screws and traditional ice pro work and are necessary, but screws pull with alarming frequency. I know two guys that have taken falls on the ice. One was climbing the Ames Ice Hose in Colorado and broke both his legs in 15 places. He walks with a cane. The other pulled three screws on a climb in Vail and decked out...on top of a pine tree. All he got was a big cut. Lucky.

[tommym]

Safety is "good".I have 2 little guys who need me around.:) I have been checking out places to "learn".Do you recommend buying any equipment over renting to start?

[Flounder]

Safety is "good".I have 2 little guys who need me around.:) I have been checking out places to "learn".Do you recommend buying any equipment over renting to start?Definately rent if you can. Ice gear is spendy. Assuming you have full technical clothing and existing rock climbing gear, the addition of a full compliment of ice gear with boots will easily set you back a grand. Ice tools, crampons, boots and an alpine harness will be nearing $1000 aside from gloves, gators, jacket, pants, etc.

Rent, beg and borrow in the beginning.

[kellymoe]

Definately rent if you can. Ice gear is spendy. Assuming you have full technical clothing and existing rock climbing gear, the addition of a full compliment of ice gear with boots will easily set you back a grand. Ice tools, crampons, boots and an alpine harness will be nearing $1000 aside from gloves, gators, jacket, pants, etc.

Rent, beg and borrow in the beginning.

I have been seeing some very good deals on Ebay recently on ice tools both used and new. It seems there are new tools every season which is good if you dont mind using last seasons latest and greatest tools. Everyone is going leashless now and as a result some fine tools are selling at very good prices. You can find a fine set of tools for under $200, maybe cheaper right now.

Recently I have gotten some great deals on cams on ebay, cant wait to get out and start using them.

[viatierra]

Nice Nick!
I was treated to my one and only climb several years ago in the same area. Great White Icicle is what sticks to my mind... I'd have happily packed up my life and moved to SLC after that one. I'm jealous of the pictures. My one ice climb was such a mind blowing experience that it kills me I didn't take my camera.

Biggest difference for me that rock was the CONSTANT ice debris falling below. You must wear a helmet 100% of the time. Even on belay or just hanging out. I had big ol' chucks bouncing off my head all day long.

It's definately a different world that rock. You and I were lucky to have an expericed ice climber offer to take us out. I think it would be quite dangerous for a couple of novices to head out with gear and just try to figure it out. I keep telling myself to head up the Ouray Ice Festival one of these years. I'm sure it would be serious fun!

[Flounder]

I have been seeing some very good deals on Ebay recently on ice tools both used and new. It seems there are new tools every season which is good if you dont mind using last seasons latest and greatest tools. Everyone is going leashless now and as a result some fine tools are selling at very good prices. You can find a fine set of tools for under $200, maybe cheaper right now.

Recently I have gotten some great deals on cams on ebay, cant wait to get out and start using them.
I wouldn't feel wierd going leashless in a park setting on top rope, but I like my leashes.

Boots and gloves are worth a splurge. There's nothing worse than sore piggies and fingers that feel like they're on fire.

[Tom B]

I have been seeing some very good deals on Ebay recently on ice tools both used and new. It seems there are new tools every season which is good if you dont mind using last seasons latest and greatest tools. Everyone is going leashless now and as a result some fine tools are selling at very good prices. You can find a fine set of tools for under $200, maybe cheaper right now.

Recently I have gotten some great deals on cams on ebay, cant wait to get out and start using them.

I'm curious, what's the impetus driving the leashless movement? It's been 2..no..3 years (argh) since I last did vertical ice climbing. Pretty sad since I'm only an hour away from RMNP. I really like the leashes and I think they add an additional safety factor.

[Tom B]

Safety is "good".I have 2 little guys who need me around.:) I have been checking out places to "learn".Do you recommend buying any equipment over renting to start?

Find an ice park. If you are ever in southwest Colorado during the winter, Ouray offers up a fantastic array of climbs just minutes from town. There is literally a long canyon chock full of routes (created by an overhead water pipe). The majority of the routes offer solid anchor points for top roping.

If you are into mountaineering as well, and an occasional vertical ice climber, you can go with a leather mountaineering boot (i.e. Sportiva Makalu) that are crampon compatible. You won't be able to front point as well on the vertical stuff, but you'll still be able to ice climb with them, glacier travel, and do winter/spring mountaineering ascents.

[grahamfitter]

I have always wanted to try...Is it more difficult than rock? I think this year I will try! Any advice?

Give the folks at IMCS (http://www.ime-usa.com/imcs/) in North Conway, NH a call - they do rock and ice climbing tuition and I think you can rent gear from them too. I know several people who have learned to climb ice (and rock) with IMCS and they all say good things.

Cheers,
Graham

[kellymoe]

Give the folks at IMCS (http://www.ime-usa.com/imcs/) in North Conway, NH a call - they do rock and ice climbing tuition and I think you can rent gear from them too. I know several people who have learned to climb ice (and rock) with IMCS and they all say good things.

Cheers,
Graham

Graham, your alive!! How was the trip. Email me with the details.

Kevin

[ClaraLondon]

wow thats really amazing Adventure trip. The pics are so clear and nice. Thanks for sharing us your great experience. I also want to go there and take this Adventure.

[jonepark]

Hi,
Wilman great photo's you have posted.By seeing this I am thinking to have a try.Now as you have some experience you can help me out that what things we should keep in mind while climbing.Which place was that at which you was climbing.Hope you will share your interest and knowledge with me.
Thanks.

[mandywilliams]

Guys, Keep us posted through pictures. That was great..

[Willman]

Right on guys!

It has been a little while.....I need to get back up there....

My brother-in-law could use the break!

:snorkel:

[barlowrs]

Congrats on the first time. I used to ice climb quite a bit and there is nothing like it. There is no comparison to trad climbing except that you are going up.

THe most rewarding thing is when you hit the ice ax in adn it stick perfectly, you know, it makes that special sound....you can always tell when you got it to stick from the sound.

[kellymoe]

I did a bit myself but living in So Cal it's tough to find. I found some good stuff up in Angeles Crest at Williamson Rock, and also the backside of Strawberry Peak. This thread is making me itch to get out and start again, maybe it's time for a trip up to June Lake or Lee Vining.



Congrats on the first time. I used to ice climb quite a bit and there is nothing like it. There is no comparison to trad climbing except that you are going up.

THe most rewarding thing is when you hit the ice ax in adn it stick perfectly, you know, it makes that special sound....you can always tell when you got it to stick from the sound.

[Superu]

By the way...if you're not top roping, falling on ice is just NOT an option. Ice screws and traditional ice pro work and are necessary, but screws pull with alarming frequency. I know two guys that have taken falls on the ice. One was climbing the Ames Ice Hose in Colorado and broke both his legs in 15 places. He walks with a cane. The other pulled three screws on a climb in Vail and decked out...on top of a pine tree. All he got was a big cut. Lucky.

X2

The big difference is that with rock climbing I can set a pretty solid anchor in rock.

On ice, once that first screw lets go, the rest want to come out like toothpicks out of an iced cake! :Wow1:

[barlowrs]

I did a bit myself but living in So Cal it's tough to find. I found some good stuff up in Angeles Crest at Williamson Rock, and also the backside of Strawberry Peak. This thread is making me itch to get out and start again, maybe it's time for a trip up to June Lake or Lee Vining.

yeah so cal is hard, Lee vining is the easiest and most available. You can also find others out in the sierras. I just did a nice climb on the summit of the north palisade.

Once in a blue moon, you can actually catch some ice formed on Mt San Jacinto. A few winters ago, I remember we were ice climbing there in teh morning, then came back to Huntington for some surfing in the evening....How many other places in the world can you ice climb and surf on the same day! haha

[barlowrs]

X2

The big difference is that with rock climbing I can set a pretty solid anchor in rock.

On ice, once that first screw lets go, the rest want to come out like toothpicks out of an iced cake! :Wow1:

Amen to this, for ice climbing, you just DONT fall..period! haha

[Flounder]

I just did a nice climb on the summit of the north palisade.

I spent 12 days on the Palisade Glacier going up, down, up, down, up, down all of the couliors and peaks in that sub range. I wanted to hone my soloing skills and that's where I got it done. On the last day I was there, I think sometime late summer in '98, some guy fell the length of the main gully. Croaked, obviously.

I tried to find ice in '97 on San Jacinto and the approach was epic only to find ice that looked anything but safe.

[barlowrs]

I spent 12 days on the Palisade Glacier going up, down, up, down, up, down all of the couliors and peaks in that sub range. I wanted to hone my soloing skills and that's where I got it done. On the last day I was there, I think sometime late summer in '98, some guy fell the length of the main gully. Croaked, obviously.

I tried to find ice in '97 on San Jacinto and the approach was epic only to find ice that looked anything but safe.

Haha yeah, while traversing the glacier on the way to the final ice climb to the top I actually slipped and started sliding down to the nice frozen lake below, scared the crap out of me, luckily I stopped myself with the ice ax...nothing like a little unplanned glissading to make the day interesting.

yeah Ice on Jacinto is VERY hit or miss. Just call the mountain shop for reports of it, and the approach is ALWAYS epic (though, thats part of the fun!)

[njsjeep]

Ice climbing is like having fun but different. You are usually cold, miserable, wet and climbing on a dangerously inconsistent medium with typically unreliable protection, whats not to like.

Belaying the leader is even worse. Trying to fight off hypothermia and avoid falling ice while paying attention to the leader who is taking a worse line and going a lot slower than you would if it was your turn is a blast. No laying on a rock basking in the sun with your shoes off watching scantly clad tan beauties cruise up a pitch. Like I said whats not to like.

The physical act of ice climbing is different from rock too in that on rock climbs you MUST adapt your body to the rock but on an ice climb, with a little bit of bashing you can adapt the ice to your body position or type. Being short I know this well. On long routes efficiency is everything and simply bashing your way up won't get you far. Smooth swings and placements of picks and crampon points that use natural features or holes from previous placements are a must.

As far as protection goes, ice screws are not inherently inferior to any form of rock pro. The difference is in the the medium into which they are placed. Thick, defect free ice is very strong stuff. A well placed screw, with a slight down angle and flush to the surface, will hold even a long leader fall. The problem is most ice isn't thick and defect free.

Placing ice protection takes time and is much more strenuous than on a typical rock route. Frequently screws are misplaced or tied off short. Tying off screws is dangerous. Although, clipping bolts or plug and chug cam placements are not usually options on ice climbs. Its better to run things out a bit and take advantage of good stances to make placements than put in a bunch of poor protection. Using shock load reducing slings and equalized anchors are good ideas as well. A cheater sling to hang off tools is sometimes helpful and on long steep routes in cold weather might be the only way to get pro placed.

I grew up in Alaska and have lead, followed, soloed and free soloed hundreds of pitches of everything from easy alpine ice to WI 6. Dress warm, wear a helmet and face protection, climb with competent partners, practice placing lots of pro and have fun. A thermos of hot tea will be your best friend.

[barlowrs]

Ice climbing is like having fun but different. You are usually cold, miserable, wet and climbing on a dangerously inconsistent medium with typically unreliable protection, whats not to like.

Belaying the leader is even worse. Trying to fight off hypothermia and avoid falling ice while paying attention to the leader who is taking a worse line and going a lot slower than you would if it was your turn is a blast. No laying on a rock basking in the sun with your shoes off watching scantly clad tan beauties cruise up a pitch. Like I said whats not to like.

The physical act of ice climbing is different from rock too in that on rock climbs you MUST adapt your body to the rock but on an ice climb, with a little bit of bashing you can adapt the ice to your body position or type. Being short I know this well. On long routes efficiency is everything and simply bashing your way up won't get you far. Smooth swings and placements of picks and crampon points that use natural features or holes from previous placements are a must.

As far as protection goes, ice screws are not inherently inferior to any form of rock pro. The difference is in the the medium into which they are placed. Thick, defect free ice is very strong stuff. A well placed screw, with a slight down angle and flush to the surface, will hold even a long leader fall. The problem is most ice isn't thick and defect free.

Placing ice protection takes time and is much more strenuous than on a typical rock route. Frequently screws are misplaced or tied off short. Tying off screws is dangerous. Although, clipping bolts or plug and chug cam placements are not usually options on ice climbs. Its better to run things out a bit and take advantage of good stances to make placements than put in a bunch of poor protection. Using shock load reducing slings and equalized anchors are good ideas as well. A cheater sling to hang off tools is sometimes helpful and on long steep routes in cold weather might be the only way to get pro placed.

I grew up in Alaska and have lead, followed, soloed and free soloed hundreds of pitches of everything from easy alpine ice to WI 6. Dress warm, wear a helmet and face protection, climb with competent partners, practice placing lots of pro and have fun. A thermos of hot tea will be your best friend.

+1000 to all of this. Another trick I finally learned, take two sets of gloves. one thin one when you are climbing (so you can feel the ax and place the pro) and a VERY thick pair for when you are freezing your @$$ off belaying. And definatly goggles or face pro, first time I went out I just used my trad rock helmet...everytime I struck the ice with the ax, I got a nice COLD spray of ice right in my face, very unpleasent.

[durango_60]

That's awesome Nic, maybe you can show another big boy the ropes someday.

[Willman]

That's awesome Nic, maybe you can show another big boy the ropes someday.

You got some great climbing just up from you in Ouray....

Might have to meet up some day....

I know my brother-in-law would be game!

:)

[mandywilliams]

Great Photos awesome!! I've been to the Ice Day up there at the Falls, when they have vendors and a man made 30' tower you can try out gear on. A good way to get hooked on it.

[motochain]

You got some great climbing just up from you in Ouray....

Might have to meet up some day....

I know my brother-in-law would be game!

:)

If you guys ever meet up in Ouray get ahold of me! I'm just up the road in Montrose, haven't ice climbed before, but would love to check it out!

My problem is finding people crazy enough to go out with me. :sombrero:

[Flounder]

If you guys ever meet up in Ouray get ahold of me! I'm just up the road in Montrose, haven't ice climbed before, but would love to check it out!

My problem is finding people crazy enough to go out with me. :sombrero:

Ice climbing is not something you want to do with "crazy people." :) Good level headed people with solid judgment would be better. The owner of Ouray Mountain Sports (Billy) is a friend of mine and a good source for rental gear. You just need to find someone with solid top roping know how, and you're all set. It might be worth paying for the classes offered in the Ice Park to get your feet wet.

Ice climbing in the Ouray Ice Park is super safe. It's as controlled as any outdoor climbin environment will ever be. Go try it.

[motochain]

Ice climbing is not something you want to do with "crazy people." :) Good level headed people with solid judgment would be better. The owner of Ouray Mountain Sports (Billy) is a friend of mine and a good source for rental gear. You just need to find someone with solid top roping know how, and you're all set. It might be worth paying for the classes offered in the Ice Park to get your feet wet.

Ice climbing in the Ouray Ice Park is super safe. It's as controlled as any outdoor climbin environment will ever be. Go try it.

I should have been more careful with words. As I'd know that "crazy people" are the last type of people I'd want to be near. :Wow1: I was just insinuating most people think it's crazy, and it does take a certain type of person to even attempt it.

Thanks for the reference on where to get started though! I'll have to check into that. I'm climbing now on a daily basis, I'd just like to try the ice. :coffeedrink:

[Flounder]

I'm climbing now on a daily basis, I'd just like to try the ice. :coffeedrink:If you currently have technical climbing and rope handling skills, it's an easy transition. The biggest adaptation is learning to climb with so much bulk, weight and complexity on your body. The techniques for climbing water ice up to WI3 is pretty basic by most climbing standards. You can learn much of what you need to know in half a day with the foundation you have now. That won't make you a Will Gad expert, but it will give you the skills you need to get to the next levels.

If you have access to week day trips to Ouray, that's pretty awesome. I started ice climbing in Ouray in the mid/late 90s just after the park opened. It was a great way to get in tons of climbing in a short window of time without having to worry about ice conditions, approaches, avalanches, etc. It will make you a good technical climber quickly, but it will not give you much in terms of backcountry ice climbing chops.