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java
01-20-2010, 05:10 PM
i know some of you have drawers with out slides. how do you like it? get to be a PITA when the drawers are full/heavy?
i dont like the idea of slides eating up so much space and they are expensive!
im builing some soon so if you have any tricks/tips LMK!

BigAl
01-20-2010, 05:21 PM
I would put a center dado on the bottom of the cabinet and a coorsponding rail on the bottom of the drawer so that it slides straight. Waxing the rail to prevent binding might help out too.

edit: you could also do 2 dado/rails. Make the rail 1/8" taller than the depth of the dado. This would reduce friction as you would just be sliding on just the rails, not the entire bottom of the drawer

java
01-20-2010, 05:26 PM
I would put a center dado on the bottom of the cabinet and a coorsponding rail on the bottom of the drawer so that it slides straight. Waxing the rail to prevent binding might help out too.

edit: you could also do 2 dado/rails. Make the rail 1/8" thicker than the depth of the dado. This would reduce friction as you would just be sliding on just the rails, not the entire bottom of the drawer

yeah i was thinking that or puting a 45 deg rip along each edge of the opening for the drawer so only the very edges of the drawer slide.
does that make sense?

EuroJoe
01-20-2010, 06:14 PM
plastic runners? dodas? just an idea

ntsqd
01-20-2010, 07:07 PM
Some UHMW-PE strips under the drawer edges will wear a lot longer than a miter cut in wood will, and be self-lubricating. Unless you're thinking of a semi-exotic to exotic hardwood. Can work with the PE with your wood working tools.

java
01-20-2010, 08:20 PM
i was thinking a piece of maple for the runners, only cuz i have some laying around. i dont know that the 45 piece is the way to go. any slop and the drawer may flop side to side if its not super tight in the hole

Corey
01-20-2010, 08:24 PM
No slides on my drawers, and they are packed to the gills :sombrero:
Mine slide very easily.

The pins keep the drawers from flying open when you accelerate.

http://www.pnw4runners.com/fj/arb_fridge2/7.jpg

SilverBullet
01-20-2010, 10:10 PM
no sliders or anything on mine either, just wood/wood contact. Handles are only about 1/4 inch from the door, so opening while driving is not a problem.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd132/AZLetendre/98%204Runner%20Project/Storage%20Drawers/CIMG3809.jpg

java
01-21-2010, 01:00 AM
dont like the pins in the top, they get in the way and are hard to get out when there is stuff on top. but latches will be in the works at some point

Overland Hadley
01-21-2010, 02:39 AM
No slides on my drawers, that way I can pull a drawer out and set it on a table or carry it to a neighboring campsite. Also lighter, simpler, and less expensive.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/5400/drawers.jpg (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/drawers.jpg/)

Corey
01-21-2010, 08:49 AM
dont like the pins in the top, they get in the way and are hard to get out when there is stuff on top. but latches will be in the works at some point
We put the pins in when I transferred the box to my new rig.
When it was in my '91 4Runner, it was right at the rear tailgate, so they did not slide open.
Little more play in the new rig.
No problem accessing the pins for me though, even when loaded up for camping.
I may take off the cables someday though and just have the pins on top.
The cables were so the pins could not get lost.

Mtn Mike
01-21-2010, 11:48 AM
I don't have sliders on mine. I use bees wax on the wood-wood surfaces which are basically 1/2 inch pine rails sliding on painted plywood. They slide easily with no binding. However, there are two things I don't care for about mine and I think sliders might have avoided these issues: 1) I can't pull the drawer all the way out without supporting it with a prop underneith, and 2)My drawers rattle as I drive (still troubleshooting this).

But overall I'm very happy with not having sliders. They would have doubled the price of the project and taken away storage space :ylsmoke:

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/4889/img2140o.jpg

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/2209/img2232.jpg

java
01-21-2010, 02:48 PM
Mike do you think that if the drawers were full height in the back it would help with not tipping when pulled out? do other people have this issue too?

off-roader
01-21-2010, 03:44 PM
I went the anti-drawer anti-slider route.

I've built full on wood enclosures in back before. Things I didn't like about them was their weight and complexity especially if any 'repairs' are required from things breaking on the trails I run.

This time I went ultra-light weight. In total, I'd be surprised if my drawer setup added more than 15lbs to the back and it doubles as a sleeping platform.
http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/46626/2987766500104986527S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2987766500104986527hFGUFm)
http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp137/offroader_ii/MonteroBedAnimation_s.gif

The drawers are essentially a series of rubbermaid containers with lids i purchased at Target for less than $40. I have 2 long containers stacked 2 high on one side, and 4 shorter containers stacked 2 high on the other side.

If I ever decided that the drawer configuration just isn't right, all I have to do is go to Target/Wallyworld and get a different set of containers.

I even added foam insulation tape to the lids to minimize dust intrusion. Off road, they've held up very well especially since they're not just loose to fly around back.

I seriously doubt that I'd EVER go back to any kind of 'full' drawer system after this setup. It's just so much more customizable and adjustable than a drawer system could ever be.

java
01-21-2010, 03:50 PM
well i have rubber miads now and i want to be able to leave some of the crap in the car. ill try drawers and see how it goes. if i odnt like them i can use them as storage in the garage or something!

off-roader
01-21-2010, 06:46 PM
well i have rubber miads now and i want to be able to leave some of the crap in the car.

What do you mean? These stay in my rig all the time. Only time they're out of my rig is when I'm restocking or reorganizing them.

java
01-21-2010, 08:01 PM
no i mean my rubbermaids are too big to leave in all the time.

Mtn Mike
01-21-2010, 09:46 PM
Mike do you think that if the drawers were full height in the back it would help with not tipping when pulled out? do other people have this issue too?

Good point. I guess that would keep it from tipping, at least until they were pulled all the way out.

off-roader
01-21-2010, 11:38 PM
Good point. I guess that would keep it from tipping, at least until they were pulled all the way out.

You could always attach a block of wood to the sides up front near the opening to prevent it from tipping out.:coffeedrink:

Hawkeye
01-21-2010, 11:38 PM
IMO. I don't like drawers without ball baring slides/glides. I have had many drawer systems and untill now they have always had kv 8900 drawer glides. I recently made a set of drawers with UHMW strips for glides. They work, but I cannot open and close the drawers as easily as when using steel glides. With heavy duty drawer glides I can put 300lbs in the drawer and it will open as easily as if it were empty. I love ball baring glides and you will too.
The one place that I would consider using no glides or UHMW would be on a system that has smaller drawers. Maybe an FJC or if you wanted to devide a larger system into 4 drawers. But with a large system like in an fj80 I perfer large drawers for easy access and Heavy duty ball baring glides.

Overland Hadley
01-22-2010, 04:02 AM
However, there are two things I don't care for about mine and I think sliders might have avoided these issues: 1) I can't pull the drawer all the way out without supporting it with a prop underneith,

You need a tailgate. :)

UK4X4
01-22-2010, 05:53 AM
I think I'm on my 3rd drawer system - all built without sliders

My latest I used a PTFE coated plywood for the drawers which works brilliantly.

Its used for making concrete formers and so has a slipy plastic coating to help release from the concrete after its dry.

To stop the drawers tilting make the back or sides of the drawer the same height as the space, then they can't tilt.

Obviously though at the end of its travel you wil have a lot of weight pushing against the top cover.

I have my drawers arranged so the least used equipment is at the back

I leave about 2mm of space sides and top, they don't mover around at all during driving

java
01-22-2010, 02:10 PM
i didnt even think about form boards! great idea, maybe just use it on the bottom on the drawer? i even have some sitting around but its 5/4 :(

mosupernak
02-01-2010, 04:07 PM
I plan on building a set w/o slides here in the next few days. Glad I read this the UHMW-PE sounds like the way to go. Considering removing the rear seats completely for some extra storge space (maybe for a future fridge), 2 big drawers in the back, and leaving room around the wheel well covers for an air compressor/dual battery setup. I'll strart posting pics when I get to work.

rusty_tlc
02-01-2010, 07:36 PM
I've built drawers with out slide that work very well.

I used some small nylon glides. One on each side of the bottom of the cabinet in front that the drawer sides ride on and one on the top of each drawer side in the back that rides on the cabinet. Last I used a couple on the bottom of rear side to support the back of the drawer.

This was on a built in cabinet I made for my son's closet. He used them for 10 or more years and they were still fine when we moved out.