Greeting and some XJ questions

[Purzell]

Hi all,

Well I'm going through the same throes of indecision that I'm guessing lots of you went through...planning a buy for sooner or later depending on what I can find and how soon I can sell some things.

SO...I was first going to go for the Astro van AWD, makes sense with my son and dog and all, but I like trucks and couldn't quite get excited about it (even though those of you who have seen TLow's build can see why I would be interested.) Anyhow, I have always loved Land Cruisers (80's) and convinced myself that "that was it" and I would somehow make it happen.

The thing is...those are spendy. Really spendy. And to find one with lower miles in my price range (like $6K) is tough. So I woke up and got realistic, and started thinking about how much I like XJ's.

I have had three Jeeps in my lifetime: a '92 Wrangler, an '86 CJ-7 and a '78 Wagoneer. Naturally I got rid of all of them for good reasons (Wrangler was a lemon, CJ was too beastly and no one would ride in it with me, Wagoneer had a constant fuel leak through all the rust holes in the body.)

I found a nice XJ locally with just over 100K miles, that's a previous gov't vehicle. They're asking too much I think, but I'm wondering if it would suit my family of three's needs:
-drive to Tahoe in the snow
-take some Forest Service roads exploring
-no hardcore wheeling but maybe the occasional trail run?

And I don't want to blow a bunch of cash on mods. Realistically, how cheaply can you build an XJ to still be a daily driver, without cutting it up, but not get stuck on a "high clearance vehicle required" trail to the hot springs?

Thanks all! And I apologize if this exact thread is posted already. I did a search first but didn't quite find what I am looking for.

[alosix]

I like XJs.

They are cheap, plentiful, have a reliable engine, and one of the few decent auto trannies that Jeep every put in a vehicle (figures it came from toyota).

The best budget build that I've done on one was a 2" Rubicon Express lift and Bushwacker cut out flares.

This fit 32x11.5s really easy. It was cheap and still drove good on the road.

[BIGdaddy]

Here's my build so far.

XJ w/ 165k ....$2000.00
Baseline
maintenence...$200.00(cap rotor oil filter, plugs, plug wires, serp belt)
radiator..........$120.00
hoses/stat......$30.00
winch bumper...$300.00(winch mount/recovery point/battering ram/light/CB/2m mount)
hitch...............$50.00(towing and rear recovery point)
OnBoardAir(OBA)...free so far
_________________________________
total 2700.00

Planned
-Snorkel...$350.00(cheaper than new motor, IMO, been there done that)
-sliders.....$200.00
-tcase skid...$100.00
-homebrew lift kit(free so far)
-roof rack ($300)
-harbor frieght winch($250ish)
-CB radio ($40.00)
-2m radio ($100ish plus antenna)
-spare tire carrier ($380)

I figure I'll have about 4500.00 into my setup once I'm done. Hopefully less cuz
I always to find gently used parts, or with my logans metal bumper, I try to balance cost versus return.

[Maximus Ram]

Truthfully..no such thing as a "budget" build.:Wow1:
That's how I started..was offered an XJ for 950 bucks..I offered them 750 and they said ok. Cool...budget build family 4wheeler...boy was I wrong...once you start, you can't stop.
I think my first mistake was going with a 4.5 in lift. If I was to do it again, I would stick with 3 inches or less. after that, I was hooked...I'm "budget" building mine from e-bay and craigslist. Winch bumper(e-bay),rock sliders(e-bay), rear bumper w/tire carrier(e-bay), con-fer rack(craigslist), Jeep canyon 15x8 rims(craigslist), cb(craigslist), Bilstein/Edelbrock shocks(Internet/e-bay),
and the list goes on and on and on and on....
I hate to think what I have into my "budget" built XJ, but it is fun and I would by another one, just go with less lift for less problems.

XJ's are cheap and plentiful. Lots of options and a good after market. You can find stuff for them at the wreckers easily , too.

Good Luck and have fun..:safari-rig:

[BIGdaddy]

Here's a few ways to "check and balance" your decisions

-Does the modification add or at the least, not compromise, reliability? If yes, continue.
-Does the modification maintain field repairability? If yes, continue.
-Has the modification been considered systemically? If yes, continue.
-Has the modification been considered with the "goal" for the vehicle in mind? If yes, continue

[ExpoMike]

Honestly a stock XJ will go about 80% of most places a typical person will want. Sure it's not going to do the Rubicon or rock crawl but I wheeled my bone stock Cherokee for a year without problems. Driver skill will always trump modifications. It may have taken me a little longer but picking the right lines, it is amazing where it would go. Everything from sand dunes to canyon trails with some rocks.

Biggest thing I did while still stock was to remove the rear sway bar and unbolt the front sway bar links from the axle (while in the dirt). This gave the XJ a ton more flex, even stock. Only got stuck once and that was on a dune ridge that I took a bad line and ended up high centered on the ridge.

Even today I am very mild in my build. 3" lift on basically 31x9.5 tire (245/75-16). It has gotten us any place we have wanted to go and most of the time with our trailer in tow. It funny, every ExPo meetup, with other rigs around, we are always the smallest but go any place they had and typically do so with much better MPG.

XJ's are great rigs but also keep in mind as with any high mileage (i.e. 75,000+) parts will wear out and maintenence will need to be done. At least XJ's parts cheap and plentiful.

Do a lot of research before buying "upgrades". Many of us have been around the block a few times to know good and bad parts/vendors so feel free to ask. If you want some more info, visit www.naxja.org as they are the place for XJ info. They saved me a bunch of money and frustration by not buying crappy parts or doing something wrong.

Good luck.

[BIGdaddy]

Honestly a stock XJ will go about 80% of most places a typical person will want. Sure it's not going to do the Rubicon or rock crawl but I wheeled my bone stock Cherokee for a year without problems. Driver skill will always trump modifications. It may have taken me a little longer but picking the right lines, it is amazing where it would go. Everything from sand dunes to canyon trails with some rocks.

Biggest thing I did while still stock was to remove the rear sway bar and unbolt the front sway bar links from the axle (while in the dirt). This gave the XJ a ton more flex, even stock. Only got stuck once and that was on a dune ridge that I took a bad line and ended up high centered on the ridge.

Even today I am very mild in my build. 3" lift on basically 31x9.5 tire (245/75-16). It has gotten us any place we have wanted to go and most of the time with our trailer in tow. It funny, every ExPo meetup, with other rigs around, we are always the smallest but go any place they had and typically do so with much better MPG.

XJ's are great rigs but also keep in mind as with any high mileage (i.e. 75,000+) parts will wear out and maintenence will need to be done. At least XJ's parts cheap and plentiful.

Do a lot of research before buying "upgrades". Many of us have been around the block a few times to know good and bad parts/vendors so feel free to ask. If you want some more info, visit www.naxja.org as they are the place for XJ info. They saved me a bunch of money and frustration by not buying crappy parts or doing something wrong.

Good luck.


quoted for truuf, brotha Mike.

[Purple People Eater]

Well, I love my XJ. It's reliable (for the most part), and yeah, it was pretty inexpensive. I put a 2.5 inch suspension and 31" tires on it (about $2,000) and it takes me everywhere I want to go.

The thing with Cherokees, is when you do a modification, you have to modify something else. And when you modify that, you have to change something else. And so on, until forever it seems. Lifting means fixing the drivetrain angle, getting bigger tires, which means re-gearing, relocating the spare, etc...

[BIGdaddy]

yeah, thats what I meant about thinking systemically when performing a modification. That way you're not surprised by something like brake lines being too short or brakes not being up to stopping 40" tires, etc. :)

[SWbySWesty]

XJ's are great for 3 people...and a dog. Then I'd say you're maxed out when carrying full camping gear for everyone.

100K miles? That's low. :D

-drive to Tahoe in the snow Can do stock
-take some Forest Service roads exploring Can do stock
-no hardcore wheeling but maybe the occasional trail run? Can do stock depending on trail and how OK you are with dragging some stuff...

And I don't want to blow a bunch of cash on mods. Realistically, how cheaply can you build an XJ to still be a daily driver, without cutting it up, but not get stuck on a "high clearance vehicle required" trail to the hot springs? Buy it and wheel it. I had one for 8 years before doing anything big...of course things are just easier when you do stuff to it...I think it leaves more room for driver error. But the Jeep can do a lot in its stock form!

[jh504]

XJs are awesome budget rigs. I had a VERY capable '96 with 170,000 miles and she always ran like a top down the interstate, through the mountains, and then back home again. My wife currently drives a 2000 with 150,000 and we drive it all over the East Coast. You will love the torque of the 4.0. The AW4 trans is a good trans if you keep it cool. Consider an additional trans cooler. But if it does go out, you can get a used AW4 for $100-$200 bucks. Gas mileage is pretty dang good considering what it is. With a 6.5" lift and 315s I got 17mpg.
Stock they are pretty capable, throw on a 3" lift and some 31s and you'll go anywhere you want to take a moderate rig. No coil spacers though, replace the coils, you will flex like crazy. The XJs strengths are SFA and a torquey motor, its alot of fun.
I will say that the interior components are not the best and after a while the Jeep will start making noises. Weird little sqeeking noises and stuff like that. They all do.
But I say go for it.

[Purzell]

Thanks guys...great info.
I'm going to give the XJ a closer look and see if I can go drive this local one this week sometime.
It sounds like the XJ can do pretty much everything I'll want to do with the possible addition of the trans cooler and some under-armor (just in case.)
Can anyone tell me how tall of a tire these will fit in stock form? I like tall narrow tires. This one is a '97, for reference, but I'll probably be shopping for a while.
I think the Land Cruiser would be awesome, but it would be overkill for me, not to mention all the stuff I would "have to' buy seems like it would cost me alot more.
Thanks again!

[jh504]

30x9.50 stock with no trimming. I've seen guys squeeze 31s under them stock but I would give it some lift before doing that. You want to give yourself room to stretch out. The SFA is one of an XJs major benefits.

[cnskate]

97 is a great year, so good luck with that. Check for rear main seal leak and exhaust manifold crack. Both are quite common but not a huge deal to fix if you can swing a wrench.

[OverlandZJ]

one of the few decent auto trannies that Jeep every put in a vehicle (figures it came from toyota).



We were trying to keep that fact swept under the rug.... ;)

Cant really add much to whats been said already, good drivetranes that will gives years of service with routine maintenance. Floors seem to suffer where road salt is used.

[Black Dog]

You don't necessarily need tons of upgrades and modifications. There was a place back in Nebraska in the sandhills I use to go with cheapo little street tires where I kept getting stuck, but once I had some better rubber it was a night and day difference and they were still stock size tires. And then if you want to do a little more expensive modification that will pay off big time in the long run lockers would be good. Even without having huge balloons for tires, just adding the lockers will help you keep traction in tough situations. I honestly think that lockers are probably the best thing you can add to a vehicle no matter what your tire size or how much lift you have, but they aren't always necessarily a budget enhancement.

[mudbutt]

Like others have said....

Check out Naxja.org, they have a ton of info....

Personally the first mod (for me) is rock rails....

If you do buy the XJ get a decent service manual and High-Performance Jeep Cherokee XJ Builder's Guide by Eric Zappe. There's a lot of info there as well.....

I would also recommend cruising around here:
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/index.htm

[thethinginthewoods]

The thing with Cherokees, is when you do a modification, you have to modify something else. And when you modify that, you have to change something else. And so on, until forever it seems. ...


I couldn't have said it better myself. I went from trying to replace the wheel u-joints and bleeding the brakes to a COMPLETE rebuild/overhaul of EVERY component from the wheels up to the x-fer case. New steering, gears, brakes, suspension, entire axle assemblies stripped, cleaned & repainted, and I haven't even started on the enterior yet...

I hadn't planned on such a snow-ball effect when i started these "minor" upgrades and repairs. I have say, it's definitely a love/hate relationship.

(although, i bought it already highly modded as a wheeler and have only done routine maintanence such as oil changes, ignition & brakes. It has suffered around 3 years of very hard abuse and is finally getting the TLC it deserves.)

:Mechanic: <- this guy working on this rig -> :safari-rig:

[Purple People Eater]

Honestly a stock XJ will go about 80% of most places a typical person will want.

Yeah. In 2wd.

[SWbySWesty]

Just remember that you can hike where you can't drive :)

[Purzell]

Well, I'm pretty much sold on the XJ. I just have to be a bit patient and wait for spring so I can sell my other projects/addictions. That's cool, I'll put aside some money until then for extras.

[Purzell]

Hey again...I'm going to go look at this 1997 Cherokee SE 4x4 4.0L that I mentioned earlier in this post. My understanding is that this car has a timing chain, not belt. Can someone tell me what is the interval for replacing that?

Besides the exhaust manifold cracking issue that was mentioned, what else might I want to ask about on this truck?

Thanks again!

[BIGdaddy]

I've never heard of the interval for the chain? maybe 100k? or when it gets noisy? or maybe simply inspecting it every few years?...never heard of one breaking to be honest.

I'd check for Oil filler/valve cover blowby when the oil cap is removed, coolant in the oil, 4x4 function, braking proportion, rusty undercarriage, doors that open and close easily, rattles and clunks, indicator and HVAC function, front steering tightness/wander...

as a start, anyways.

[ExpoMike]

I don't believe the 4.0 uses timing chains or belts but is gear driven. Many inline 6 cyl. are like that.

[Root Moose]

The 4.0 uses a timing chain with built in tensioner. I couldn't find a reference to the change interval in the FSM. It probably doesn't have one. It does say replace the chain if the deflection is more than 1/2" though.

[alexfm]

Here's my build so far.

XJ w/ 165k ....$2000.00
Baseline
maintenence...$200.00(cap rotor oil filter, plugs, plug wires, serp belt)
radiator..........$120.00
hoses/stat......$30.00
winch bumper...$300.00(winch mount/recovery point/battering ram/light/CB/2m mount)
hitch...............$50.00(towing and rear recovery point)
OnBoardAir(OBA)...free so far
_________________________________
total 2700.00

Planned
-Snorkel...$350.00(cheaper than new motor, IMO, been there done that)
-sliders.....$200.00
-tcase skid...$100.00
-homebrew lift kit(free so far)
-roof rack ($300)
-harbor frieght winch($250ish)
-CB radio ($40.00)
-2m radio ($100ish plus antenna)
-spare tire carrier ($380)

I figure I'll have about 4500.00 into my setup once I'm done. Hopefully less cuz
I always to find gently used parts, or with my logans metal bumper, I try to balance cost versus return.
If you dont mind me asking, what tire carrier are you using/looking to getting? I've been looking into them, but cant seem to find any for less that $500, which is way out of my budget right now.

Thanks,

Alex.

[Purzell]

Hey...I hope you guys don't mind me asking all of these questions. I am not a mechanic even though I do learn to fix things when they break!

In any case, I am also looking at a 2000 Cherokee with 118K on it. The owner says, "The oil pan gasket could be replaced." I'm assuming he means it has an oil leak. I am not afraid of a little oil pan gasket replacement (I don't think) but could it be the oil is coming from elsewhere? When I crawl under there are there other spots that might spell disaster, leaking oil?

[BIGdaddy]

If you dont mind me asking, what tire carrier are you using/looking to getting? I've been looking into them, but cant seem to find any for less that $500, which is way out of my budget right now.

Thanks,

Alex.


No problemo, alex. I'm fairly positive I'm going to get the detours tailbone. its a different type of approach to a tire carrier. Pretty cool and VERY stout.

http://www.detoursusa.com/tailbone.php (I think that's right)

[BIGdaddy]

Hey...I hope you guys don't mind me asking all of these questions. I am not a mechanic even though I do learn to fix things when they break!

In any case, I am also looking at a 2000 Cherokee with 118K on it. The owner says, "The oil pan gasket could be replaced." I'm assuming he means it has an oil leak. I am not afraid of a little oil pan gasket replacement (I don't think) but could it be the oil is coming from elsewhere? When I crawl under there are there other spots that might spell disaster, leaking oil?

Your questions are very welcome, no worries!

My motor is moist underneath like a mofo. I have no problem checking oil levels at each fuel fill-up. I tend to add about a quart every couple thousand miles.

Other than the environmental irresponsibility, with having some oil drip every once and a while, or having some of it get washed away in the rain, I see no issue. Wouldn't stop me from buying any car.

If you are going to be wading through streams, though, let it be known that anywhere oil can get out, water has a chance of getting in...

That being said, the rear of the oil pan gasket has been known to give people issues, and I've read a few threads on naxja where owners have pulled their motors to ease the process..haha! There's probably a write-up or 10 on naxja about replacing all the normal leak culprits.

[ExpoMike]

Hey...I hope you guys don't mind me asking all of these questions. I am not a mechanic even though I do learn to fix things when they break!

In any case, I am also looking at a 2000 Cherokee with 118K on it. The owner says, "The oil pan gasket could be replaced." I'm assuming he means it has an oil leak. I am not afraid of a little oil pan gasket replacement (I don't think) but could it be the oil is coming from elsewhere? When I crawl under there are there other spots that might spell disaster, leaking oil?

No worries, ask away.

As for common oil leaks, the oil pan and/or rear main seal are common on higer mileage one. Another even more common one is the oil filter adapter housing. If you can get the tork bolt out, it's a cake to do with 3 new o-rings (dealer and aftermarket have the 3 o-ring kit). I built my own tool to make this easy to do and just did it on my 2000 back in Dec. Greatly cut down on the main leak.

[Root Moose]

No worries, ask away.

As for common oil leaks, the oil pan and/or rear main seal are common on higer mileage one. Another even more common one is the oil filter adapter housing. If you can get the tork bolt out, it's a cake to do with 3 new o-rings (dealer and aftermarket have the 3 o-ring kit). I built my own tool to make this easy to do and just did it on my 2000 back in Dec. Greatly cut down on the main leak.

Mike nailed the most likely leak points. In addition the rear of the valve cover can have a tendency to leak and work it's way down to the back of the engine as well. These are robust engines. A little leak is not a big deal. All the normal caveats apply - sight unseen and all that.

If the Jeep hits all the other criteria that you are looking for then I wouldn't let this leak stop you from buying it. Worst case it is the rear main seal and you'll spend a messy, time consuming afternoon replacing it. :)

[BIGdaddy]

Mike nailed the most likely leak points. In addition the rear of the valve cover can have a tendency to leak and work it's way down to the back of the engine as well. These are robust engines. A little leak is not a big deal. All the normal caveats apply - sight unseen and all that.

If the Jeep hits all the other criteria that you are looking for then I wouldn't let this leak stop you from buying it. Worst case it is the rear main seal and you'll spend a messy, time consuming afternoon replacing it. :)

I don't care what they say about you canadians...You're alright in my book, Chris.

:coffeedrink:

[Root Moose]

LOL

Now what did I do?!

:)

[BIGdaddy]

LOL

Now what did I do?!

:)

haha. nothin', just playin.

you get a double word score for using caveat and robust in the same paragraph, though, i think...:victory:

[Purzell]

First of all, you all are great. I appreciate the guidance.

Do you folks find that Kelly Blue Book is not a good guide when it comes to pricing these? It seems that where I am the prices are a little to well over blue book. I'd like to make an offer on this truck at the dealership but the price is almost $2K over blue book and not worth that I don't think, unless I am deluding myself.

Is there a better way or guide to gauge how much to offer on one of these?

[Root Moose]

Don't shop at the dealer. There is no value in buying a vehicle of this vintage from a dealer, especially a dealer that deals in new cars with the used cars section as a way to liquidate stuff that they've taken on trade.

If you are not comfortable with buying from a private party then research the hell ouf of the vehicle so you know what to look for then take the Jeep to an indy mechanic that you trust with a list of things for them to check out above and beyond what they would normally do.

You might find a good value at some hole in the wall used car place that is not affiliated with a dealership but that is a crap shoot. Caveat emptor (sorry, Brian :) )

You can find good values in XJs by browsing the used adverts online. I guess in the 'States Craiglist is big. Up here it is Kijiji - dunno about where you are. Dealing with "people" can have it's own issues though. Lots of flakes and retards out there.

Where are you? There can be regional pricing differences too.

All this said, I bought my XJ at a dealership as a used vehicle and paid too much for it. Two year old Jeep with the colour and transfer case I wanted with 55,ooo kms. Probably paid about $3,ooo too much ($18k for a $15k Jeep - this was in 2003). I knew this at the time. But after six months of not finding what I wanted or to find what I wanted that was beat to snot or was an ashtray inside I said screw it and bought my Jeep in spite of the price. Sometimes you have to do that.

HTH

[Root Moose]

Just thought I'd mention... now that I've been thinking about when I bought my Jeep.

The price a dealer has listed is a "asking" price. When I bought my Jeep I had dickered off almost $2,ooo.

So, talk to the dealer. Maybe you can get the Jeep for the price you want to pay. Just say up front that you know the KBB is $2k less than what they are asking.

[BIGdaddy]

Don't shop at the dealer. There is no value in buying a vehicle of this vintage from a dealer, especially a dealer that deals in new cars with the used cars section as a way to liquidate stuff that they've taken on trade.

If you are not comfortable with buying from a private party then research the hell ouf of the vehicle so you know what to look for then take the Jeep to an indy mechanic that you trust with a list of things for them to check out above and beyond what they would normally do.

You might find a good value at some hole in the wall used car place that is not affiliated with a dealership but that is a crap shoot. Caveat emptor (sorry, Brian :) )

You can find good values in XJs by browsing the used adverts online. I guess in the 'States Craiglist is big. Up here it is Kijiji - dunno about where you are. Dealing with "people" can have it's own issues though. Lots of flakes and retards out there.

HTH

Quoted for the truth. As Chris said, I see no need to go to dealer for this particular vehicle. The used marketplace is full of good examples.

X2 on the location, it would help a lot to know where you are,and heck we could even use the web to help you look.

I looked for about 3 months at different rigs, and man, was there a range in condition. I looked at a nice 95, and by nice, I mean from like 20 ft away. that thing was a basket case everywhere else...haha!

It was a day before my rental car needed to be returned (sold my vintage subie and rented a ford focus to drive in the meantime) that I found the 92 I have now. It was a one owner rig, that was cared for, garaged, and babied on the inside. The only reason it was leaving was cuz the owners had just bought their second grand cherokee and didn't use the XJ anymore.

I got it for $2000.00 which after almost a year of ownership, having never had it fail on me, and being able to do all my own work...has always felt like a great investment.

Don't think you need to "finance" to find a great rig. a couple grand is enough, with a good search (and patience) to find you a good rig.

[Root Moose]

I know that locally I can find really nice XJs all day long for under $5,ooo. Workable ones are about half that (for the most part - also factor in I'm speaking in CDN $$). Exceptions to every rule and the salt belt (where I am) destroys vehicles.

[Black Dog]

No problemo, alex. I'm fairly positive I'm going to get the detours tailbone. its a different type of approach to a tire carrier. Pretty cool and VERY stout.

http://www.detoursusa.com/tailbone.php (I think that's right)

Jeez, this is creepy. This jeep from the Detours site is almost identical to mine (I don't have a tire carrier yet). Same color and body style, same wheels and tires.

http://www.detoursusa.com/images/tailbone_main.jpg

[BIGdaddy]

what do you think of that setup? pretty interesting huh? I'm all about keeping the XJ looking like an XJ whenever possible, so I really like it. :)

[Black Dog]

That is pretty cool that they can adapt a tire carrier to the stock bumper, but I'm a bit disappointed that they don't have their full bumper any more. I liked the optional diamond plating and it was neat that they wrapped around the side of rear corners to give you a little bit of protection. One place too that the stock rear bumper is lacking is the sheet metal, its so thin that it gets bent easy when you use a hi lift with it, but dings like that are badges of honor for a jeep. :ylsmoke:

[Purzell]

Hey all...I am located in Sacramento, CA and if you know a place to look besides where I am looking, well hook me up! I sold my car today so I am ready to buy a truck! :wings: (I will admit that I sent an email on a 4Runner...but I'd rather have the lower mile XJ than a close to 200,000 miles 4Runner.)

I have been rabidly checking:
www.craigslist.org
www.crazedlist.org (let's you check multiple craigslists)
www.cars.com
www.autotrader.com
this site and ADVrider.com

I'll spend up to $5500 for the right 1997-2001 body style Cherokee in good condition with 100,000 miles give or take a few. Prefer stock Jeeps.

I'm going to go back to the dealership and test drive the 1997 on Thursday. I stopped to see it yesterday on my way back from Tahoe and it was pretty nice, not perfect though and not worth $2K over blue book. It has been on the lot at that dealer since about Jan 15.

So please, if you see or hear of anything give me a shout! Thanks!

[Root Moose]

With the budget you have I'd hold out for the right truck. For that kind of money you should be able to a very good condition, low mileage XJ.

I'm partial to the 2000-2001 for the DIS. 1999 was the first year for the revised intake manifold - also the last year for the high pinion front axle. Other than those points any year is a good year. Depends on what you want to do with the Jeep.

[mudbutt]

Yeah, just keep looking around. I found my '98 XJ on Autotrader.

It was at a used car dealer and they had just posted the ad. Didn't even have pictures up yet and I bought it sight unseen.

I sent the wife down to put a deposit on it and I picked it up after work that day.

$5k for a truck with 48k miles on it. One small door ding and a cigarette burn in the drivers seat were the only two flaws on the entire rig.

I have the Detours tailbone..... I highly recommend it. Sturdy, easy to install, cheaper to purchase than most, and it retains the factory look.

Here's how she sits now:

[Black Dog]

I have the Detours tailbone..... I highly recommend it. Sturdy, easy to install, cheaper to purchase than most, and it retains the factory look.

I'm thinking a tailbone is in my near future shopping list for my machine. Yesterday I ordered new brakes, so I'll get those next week and install them right away. Then I plan on going to the little mom & pop tire shop next door and seeing if they can hook me up with a wheel and tire for a full size spare because those are kind of nice to have some times, then I'll save my pennies and get a tailbone.

[BIGdaddy]

I'm thinking a tailbone is in my near future shopping list for my machine. Yesterday I ordered new brakes, so I'll get those next week and install them right away. Then I plan on going to the little mom & pop tire shop next door and seeing if they can hook me up with a wheel and tire for a full size spare because those are kind of nice to have some times, then I'll save my pennies and get a tailbone.

As much as I think I need an aftermarket bumper, I think I'm going to take the same route. I just don't want to add all the weight back there, and I really do like the way my jeep looks right now, and that the detours bumper preserves that look.

I'd say that I might add some JCR rear quarter/taillight armor just for good measure, but thats about it. (they're about 150.00/pair. not bad)

[Purzell]

Well, I went up and drove the 1997 XJ today. It seemed nice although the windshield was replaced recently and it was leaking and whistling. No problem as they would fix that. They rejected my offer, however, saying "supply and demand." That may well be so I will keep on looking. Too bad though, I liked it.

I have a question though: When you put the Jeep in 4WD HI on pavement and turn the wheel, should the front wheels bounce and grab? I assume the answer is yes since in normal conditions you would not use 4WD on dry pavement. But I didn't to test in in dirt so I would not know what it felt like there, and I only drove my previous Jeeps in the mud or soft soil when off road (I'm from Florida originally.)

Bummer though, I got a speeding ticket on the way home!

[Root Moose]

Depends on the transfer case. If the Jeep was Select-Trac (NV242) equipped it wouldn't crow hop in 4x4 on hard surfaces. At least not in full time mode.

[boellis87]

I haven't posted in the Jeep section yet I don't think, but I figured I'd chime in on this thread.

I own a 1994 xj with 213,000 miles on the clock. I love it. Only have about $3000 in it total. This is my trail/hunting/messing around rig. I've had to replace hubs and a leaky power steering hose since I bought it and that's it. Put decent 33" muds on it and a budget boost (already had a little bit of lift when I got it). This is a secondary vehicle for me and just sits while I'm off at college. Despite the battery getting low between startups, it never fails to fire up.

I hit some decent trails with some more hardcore friends of mine and they never fail to mention how well it goes. It's open front and rear, I run street pressure, and the sway bars are attached and I follow almost anywhere they go. On the muddiest, gnarliest hills I take a strap just to keep from busting stuff, but other than that it just plugs along.

It's got a little of the expo look (cheap roof rack that was on it when I bought it), but it's not the vehicle I'm building up for that purpose. I'd probably look for one with a little less mileage, but it has definitely never failed to impress. Can't say the motor feels like new as I didn't have it then, but if it was stronger then than now, I'd be amazed. The 4.0 is bulletproof. Hopefully this one will get a little more expo flavor once I'm done with my other rig. Great choice on a platform.

[DrMoab]

As much as I think I need an aftermarket bumper, I think I'm going to take the same route. I just don't want to add all the weight back there, and I really do like the way my jeep looks right now, and that the detours bumper preserves that look.

I just had a buddy build this for me. The bumper is made out of 3/16s steel and the swing out is out of thinner stuff yet. The whole thing weighs less than 100Lbs. I only paid 500 for it. I've found you can get a lot more for your money if you make friends with fabricator dudes. :D
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g265/DrMoab/New%20Bumper/DSC_5161.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g265/DrMoab/New%20Bumper/DSC_5159.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g265/DrMoab/New%20Bumper/DSC_5150.jpg

[Purzell]

The dealership has begun trying to negotiate with me on the 1997 that I drove this week. It actually only took one day for me to get an e-mail and a phone call. I am standing firm at my offer of $5500. They claim to have paid $4000 for the Jeep and did a lot of work. I saw the list of repairs including front axle, oil pan gasket, 4 new tires (street tires, Kumhos but brand new) and regular service items, fluid change etc., and that windshield that they have to replace again. It's very clean in and out.
Except for the fact that I am not sure about the transfer case, I liked the Jeep. So my question is, they are not sure which transfer case is in the Jeep. Based on the "crow hopping" as someone called it, should I avoid this Jeep. I'm just not sure what it is supposed to feel like both when you activate the four wheel drive, and when it is in. I felt that the lever you maneuver felt very mechanical, you had to push it over to the right then pull it firmly into 4WD. I guess I don't know what's normal and whether, if they'll meet my price OTD I should proceed based on everything else.

Oh, ramblings, sorry guys...

[Backwoods Rambler]

If the wheels hopped when you put it in 4wd on dry pavement & turned the wheels, that probably means it has a part time transfercase. IE: NP231, which is fine. As long as it DOESN'T do that while in a "full time or AWD" mode (NP242, etc..), this info should be accurate.

The method you described is how I test 4wd systems on vehicles I'm considering purchasing. Also, I make sure to put it in 4lo, which pretty much tells me that the 4wd system is fully functional.

If they will come down to your price and you like the vehicle, you should aboslutely buy it.

As far as the service history, they could have made that all up and it should have no bearing on your decision to purchase or not.

Good luck :victory:

[Root Moose]

The easiest way to to tell what transfer case is in the Jeep by looking at the bezel beside the shifter. If it has two positions marked full-time and part-time then it is a NV242.

There is also a tag on the transfer case near the rear rear output on the back that has the model number stamped into it.

Don't feel pressured into buying this particular Jeep. There's lots of them out there.

Doesn't hurt to go for another test drive.

[Purzell]

When you put this Jeep into 4H a light comes on on the dash that reads "Part Time"

Does that help?

[BIGdaddy]

I'd say if you're good with 5500, stick with it.

sounds like a good jeep.

everyone's covered the tcase question.

if its clean inside and out, drives well, and you like it, it is very likely a good one to buy.

Cherokee's tend to be pretty transparent. They either work or they don't ..haha...

[Backwoods Rambler]

Don't feel pressured into buying this particular Jeep. There's lots of them out there.

Doesn't hurt to go for another test drive.

So true, I test drove 5 of them spanning a 100 mile radius around me. The first 4 I thought were "just fine" until I drove the 5th one and then all the others seemed to fall into the "glad I didn't buy that" category. :ylsmoke:


Obviously I bought the 5th one. And for only $4,700, 3 years ago :wings:

[Purzell]

Well we reached a good deal (my deal) on that 1997 XJ so I should be getting it tomorrow. It had a new windshield installed but there was a leak in the seal so they are replacing that again.
Even thought they told me it was all serviced up, and the fluids I could check or see looked clean and clear, I'd like to do the baseline service when I get it home.
Can you guys recommend the best fluids and parts to run in this rig? I'd like to do the T-case for sure since I can't say if it was ever shifted into 4WD...
Thanks again for all the help and advice, I am looking forward to my first XJ!

[Root Moose]

You know, for the cost of changing the fluids could buy you a hack and tap SYE or some similar aftermarket part.

By all means, inspect the fluids. If they look fine leave them. The money can be better used elsewhere and these trucks aren't made of sugar.

As for fluids, just normal brand name stuff. I run Mobil Super 2000 in the engine. Similarly for the diffs. I don't bother with synthetic for the Jeeps.

[Purzell]

I got my XJ! :wings: I can't believe how nice and solid it seems considering the year and mileage (1997 with 103K) and that it was a government truck. It's in great shape and very clean.
So much for being patient and waiting until spring.

Anyhoo, I am looking for a couple of things:
-a 1997 Owners Manual for the glovebox
-the strap that pulls the tailgate shut, in tan

PM me if you have any of those things, thanks!

[Black Dog]

A 1997 with only 103k miles on it? Nice! My '99 has 145k!

[DrMoab]

I've owned five XJ's and never seen a strap to pull the tailgate closed. Was this an option I missed somehow?

[Root Moose]

I've owned five XJ's and never seen a strap to pull the tailgate closed. Was this an option I missed somehow?
Yes, curious about that also.

[Purzell]

Hmmm...ok perhaps I am wrong. I was sure that I read that when they went to the "new" body style in 1997 they put a strap in the hatch to pull it shut. In any case, on the right side of the inside of my hatch, on the bottom, there is a place with two holes molded in that looks like a handle or strap would bolt in there. I don't have an image hosting web site so I can't put a photo up.

[Black Dog]

There is a handle there, but not a strap. thats the kind of thing you could find in any junk yard, maybe even from jc whitney or some other catalog too.

[Purzell]

Yup...or maybe someone has one lying around and can save me a trip to the junkyard. Unfortunately, as much as I used to love going to the junkyard, they're not toddler friendly.

[ExpoMike]

Handle on the right side is all I have ever seen or read about. No strap that I have ever heard about.

Congrats on your new XJ. Post up some pics!

[Purzell]

Well my buddy has named the new XJ "The Fed Fridge" since it is white, boxy and an ex-Fedmobile.
I am starting to peel my eyes for some tires. The consensus here seems to be 30x9.5 is a good size with no lift or trimming needed? The truck came with four brand new Kumho radials in 215 75r 15 and they are small and smooth. I'd like a trail worthy tire without having to modify. Currently clearance is just fine for my needs. I figure I can sell the Kumhos pretty easily.
Can that 30x9.5 size be translated somehow to help me with shopping? What's the closest metric equivalent? I want a narrower tire, not a wide and tall tire.
Pics will follow once I figure out this webhosting thing.

[Black Dog]

This web page (http://www.rims-n-tires.com/info_specs.jsp?text2=Sample%202:%20Honda%20Civic%2 0wheel&sw2=185&ar2=65&bd2=15&rd2=15&rw2=6&;et2=35&text1=Sample%201:%20Hummer%20H2%20wheel&sw1=315&ar1=70&bd1=17&rd1=17&rw1=8.0&et1=10) lets you input different wheel and tire sizes to see how they compare to each other. It only works with the metric sizes, but in the little chart below the diagram thing it will tell you the approximate inch size it is equivalent to.

It looks like a 235/80 or 235/85 is pretty close to what you are looking for.

[drgnhrt1979]

I love my XJ, i am basically stock, but from the pic, you can see everything i have done so far... i have no lift and my XJ will still go places that i will not yet...

My XJ is a 2000 with about 216K miles on it and still runs strong with regular maintenance

as it was said before, think about it systematically and the research will pay off... for example, you can go from stock to about 3 inches with no changes to the drive-line, after that you need to re-angle the rear axle, get a SYE, longer drive-shaft, ect...

when you get your XJ work backwards on your build... decide what you want it for then decide how you want it to look and perform then what size tires so you can find the minimum lift, ect...