Isuzu NPR HD Truck Camper Build

[VicHanson]

Well the time has come to start my build thread. I've got about 9 days left here in Peru, flying to Miami on March 1st. If you are interested in any background to this, please see my previous preliminary planning thread. (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33918&page=4)

I have my truck, a 2001 NPR HD, 5 speed diesel, the truck camper, a 1990 Shadow Cruiser Truck Camper, and a 1991 25' Fleetwood Terry Trailer waiting for me in Florida. Friends helped me buy the truck, and gave me the trailer, and my cousin helped with the truck camper. So far I've seen good pictures of the truck, one small picture of the outside of the truck camper, and none of the trailer. Needless to say I am getting a big anxious to see the goods in person!

From reading other build threads, it looks like one needs to be open to changes and modifications as the build progresses, especially being that this is my first major project like this. I get lots of what seem like good ideas in my head, putting them into practice is a different story.

After many changes of ideas and modifications to the plans already, here is my current thinking and plan. The truck currently has a 14' cargo box, with a power lift gate on it. I will need to remove this, and hopefully be able to sell it. I plan on building basically a wooden flatbed on the truck frame, and then mounting the truck camper on that. I will box in along the sides of the camper to make storage compartments, much like IdaSHO did here (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34110&page=3). An option would be to use ready made metal under body truck boxes, but I hope to be able to save some money by making them myself out of wood. My main problem is that I haven't welded in about 40 years, and I didn't know much about it then. I had hoped to have a brother-in-law help me, but he doesn't have the time, and also isn't in Florida. I had originally wanted to build the camper and garage from scratch as one unit, but decided not to because of the cost and time needed to build it. If at some time in the future I change my mind, I can always cannibalize the truck camper and use the components from that to build one.

The camper will be mounted farther back on the truck, so that the cab over portion ends at the back of the truck cab, rather than extending over the cab. There are two reasons for this, the first is that the cab needs to tilt for engine access and I want a bike garage under the cab over bed. I am trying to keep the overall height as low as possible, so I didn't want to raise the camper up enough to clear the cab, or make the camper raiseable to tilt the cab. I had also considered mounting the motorbike on a bumper mount, but decided that the garage was a better option. The garage will also hold the deep cycle batteries, and probably an extra fresh water tank among other things.

The cab over portion will be shortened to 4 feet, which will bring the overall length of the camper/garage unit to 13 to 13 1/2 feet (I don't have the exact measurement of the camper yet). I am trying to keep the total camper length as short as possible. I'm hoping to build the flatbed base as a split level with the back raised up enough to give tire clearance, and the front as low as possible to give more headroom in the garage. This will probably require using steel outriggers bolted to both sides of the truck frame to support the wooden flatbed portion. This will also give a little lower lift height for loading the bike. My dream bike is a Honda CRF-230L but I don't want to spend that much money, so unless I can find a really good deal, might settle for a Yamaha XT225.

I plan on towing the 25' trailer to use as a base camp for longer term stays and trips. The truck camper will be self sufficient electrical wise, with 400 to 600 watts of solar panels and six T105RE Trojan 6v deep cycle batteries for a total of 675 AH of capacity. Where possible I hope to use electric power rather than propane for extended boondocking rather than in campgrounds with hookups. The truck system will supply power to the trailer when I am using them both together.

Well, that's enough to start with, will add more details soon if time allows, and hope to begin the actual build during the 1st week of March.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=330&pictureid=1183 http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=330&pictureid=1184 http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=330&pictureid=1182

[whatcharterboat]

Vic. Good Luck with the build. I know it will always seems like an overwhelming task ahead but one day you just sort of run out of things to do. Then use it for a quick trip. Make whatever small changes you need and go. Just go.

Do your research on your build well beforehand and after it's all said and done. It is what it is. Don't look back and wish you had done it differently. It is what it is. And I'm sure you'll do a tremendous job.

Doug Hackney always says "It's not about the build, it's about the journey" (paraphrasing here). For me it's all about the build but that's different cause it's my job. Just trying to say, don't get too caught up in it and don't become too overwhelmed.

John

[VicHanson]

Thanks, John. Would appreciate yours, and anyone else's comments and advice as I post here, I'm going to be learning as I build but would prefer not to do it by making anymore mistakes than necessary!

Vic

[alan]

hey john!
when do you run out of things to do?

[VicHanson]

I've got a question (the first of many!) that I need advise on. What is the best way to mount the truck camper to the wooden flatbed base? I plan on making the base out of 2x4s (fir or oak?) running from side to side, covered by 3/4 or 1 inch tongue and groove plywood. The 2x4s will be on 12 or 18 inch spacings. The plywood joint also will go side to side.

The majority of the camper weight will be supported by the normal lower center section of the camper, that normally sits on the floor of the pickup bed. My idea is to put 2x4s flat on top of the flatbed base, along the sides of the camper, so it can't shift from side to side. This will also provide an attachment point if there is enough solid material in the camper frame to attach to. This won't work in the front because the garage floor will be lower, and I'm not sure about the back. I think the back of the camper is designed to hang down below the back of the pickup bed, but I am not sure. The side storage compartments will rest on the flatbed base, but will also be attached to the camper on top.

I do not plan on removing the camper once it is attached to the truck. I plan on putting insulation under the bed and between the side storage units and the camper (both on the sides and top of the storage units).

Thanks for any help,
Vic

[VicHanson]

Hi Peter, good to hear from you as I know you know wood! I've been following your build, nice!

I know nothing about boat building, or fiberglassing, so nothing about epoxy. What specific epoxy are you recommending? Is it made just for wood or is it for fiberglass, just without the cloth? What wood would you recommend as being stronger and better quality? I just remember my dad building extension sides for a pickup out of oak planks to haul grain. I know it is strong, heavy and expensive - is there something better to use?

To laminate the plywood sheets you said to use 'many drywall screws'. Is that every 12", every 6" or what? If the screws go into the permanent 2x4 frame, they don't need to be taken out, do they? What is the best way to apply the glue for large surfaces like that? Brush? Roller?

Is the 3M 5200 just to be used between the truck frame and the longitudinal wood (2x4s or 3x4s?, unless I need to raise the bed higher for tire clearance) on the frame, or should it be used between the cross 2x4s and the plywood deck as well? I was looking at Home Depot's Milstead WeatherShield timbers - 6x6 cut in half? But it doesn't say what kind of wood it is, just that it is pressure treated for termites, fungus and rot.

I am still debating whether to use U bolt clamps to hold the flatbed to the truck or flat plates bolted on. I'm leaning towards the plates so I don't have to cut grooves for the U bolts.

Yeah, the power lift would make a nice lift for the motorcycle if I was using a rear mounted carrier. Hopefully I can find someone who will buy it to help offset some of the cost of the truck.

Sorry for all the questions! Thanks.
Vic

[VicHanson]

I should be sorting and packing, but this is more fun. Also, supposedly have 3 buyers who are interested in buying my van tomorrow – that would really be nice!

You've given me lots to chew on Peter, thanks. I guess I will start with your last post, reusing the existing box. I hadn't thought of what you are suggesting, but it is an intriguing idea. I don't know anything about how the boxes are constructed either. If it was exactly the right width, I suppose it could be cut down to fit under the over cab bed for the garage in front, and cut down in the back like the box on a pickup, and just set the camper into it – storage units would be already made! Unfortunately I don't know the width of either the box or the camper at this point, and can't really decide about that until I see it anyway, so no use bothering my friends there for measurements (and I'll be there in a week).

Having lived on the West Coast for almost 20 years, I was mostly familiar with pine and Douglas fir so also don't know what is available on the East Coast. I've been reading up about treated lumber and the need for galvanized fasteners and connectors, so if I decide to use that, guess I will have to see what is recommended for the lumber I use.

Thanks for all the info on treated lumber, sealing, adhesives and the rest. I expect I will probably use 2 sheets of ½ inch plywood to make the floor of the base. As far as plates with bolts on wood, good to know I can't do that with 2x4s. How about 3x6? Or is it just a bad idea in general with wood? With U bolts, I would have to either put a groove in the top of the beam, or in the plywood (or both?). Don't know what I was thinking - I just looked at an NPR now with a box on it. I forgot that the place above the U bolts is open space, separated from the plywood by the width of the cross pieces. This one had a metal framed box and they did put a wood cushion between that and the truck frame (see below) Maybe it would be better to use a steel beam on top of the truck frame and make the rest out of wood. Then bolt the wood to the steel beam...ahh, but how do you get the nuts inside a steel beam!?!? Unless it is open on one side, like the frame.

I have the NPR body builder's guide, complete with it's poor Japlish! It says the tires need 7.8 inches of clearance to the bed. It is a bit confusing about mounting though, in some places it shows using a wood cushion between the metal on the truck frame and the metal on the bed frame, and in other places it shows metal on metal. It doesn't really say that the wood cushion is required, guess I will need to call Isuzu if I decide to use metal.

Thanks much, Vic

[UHAULER]

I know i've suggested it before but I'll say it again anyways. Why don't you convert the existing box into the camper. It appears to be a well made, high quality box. It's already mounted properly to the truck, looks much better IMO than a cabover on a flatbed, has a much bigger, useable floor space than the camper and will probably weigh less and cost less in the end. You could use all of the parts/windows from the camper. It would also be possible to build a motorcycle garage in the front by putting a door in the side and framing it in allowing you to put the bed over the motorcycle storage.

[VicHanson]

Personally I'm not a fan of cargo box conversions, although you are probably right that it would look better, less pieced together. Who knows what will happen when I actually see the truck and the camper in person, maybe I will have a change of heart.

Well I have sold almost everything here except for my van and a pair of trekking poles, and my suitcases are full! I leave for Lima tomorrow afternoon, and having sold my laptop also, not sure how much internet time I will have till I get to Miami on Monday - where I have a new laptop waiting as well.

Please keep the comments coming, I appreciate the ideas and help.

Vic

[UHAULER]

I look forward to seeing your progress however you build it. It's all about getting out and having fun.

Sean

[VicHanson]

I arrived in Miami on Monday afternoon and on the way to where I am staying got to stop by and see my truck - it looks great! Went to Walmart in the evening and got a cell phone with Straight Talk, the $30 a month prepaid plan (1000 min, 1000 text messages and 30 MB of data) and a Samsung R451C phone with a slide out QWERTY keyboard ($100), which uses the Verizon network. Seems to work good, but I'm still trying to figure out the web part of it.

Ahh, the joys of trying to work outside the system! I had received two quotes online for RV insurance, one with Good Sam (GMAC) for $791 per year and the other with Progressive for $844 per year. Yesterday I got the title signed by the seller and this morning I called to get insurance on the truck, so I could get my temporary registration to drive it from Florida to Minnesota.

I called Progressive first to see if they could somehow match GMAC's price but they said they didn't have any listings for Isuzu motorhomes (actually there were some a number of years ago) and when I gave them the VIN number they said they could not insure it as an RV because it was registered as a commercial vehicle (belonged to a small package shipping and mailing service), and was not built as a motorhome. I asked how much it would cost to insure it as a commercial vehicle and they said they don't insure commercial vehicles.

I then called GMAC and they said the same thing. I can't believe that GMAC doesn't insure commercial vehicles! For both of these I called the toll free numbers that were listed on the quotes. One of them said something about not being able to insure it if I put a truck camper on it!

Next I called the agent in Minnesota where I had previously insured my car when have I returned home for a month or two every year (the vehicle will be registered in MN), which is also Progressive. He said they couldn't do it as an RV but he could do it as a truck. However because it listed as a commercial vehicle it costs more to insure it if it is used outside of a 100 mile radius of where it is registered! It ended up costing about $100 more for six months, with less coverage. They also wouldn't put road service on it because it is a commercial vehicle! It doesn't make any difference that I'm not using it commercially and don't even have a business.

Anyway, I finally got insurance on it and they faxed proof for the registration, so I was able to get a 30 day temporary permit to drive it back to Minn. to register it. Because I will be mounting the camper here in Florida, I asked about renewing the permit if I need more time and they said no problem.

I picked up the truck and on the way home I stopped a Home Depot to check on wood, tools, etc. and confirmed that the prices here are 10 - 20% higher than in Northern Minnesota! I was looking at lumber and plywood, but couldn't find out what kind of wood it was. I wanted Douglas Fir, but only found a small amount of that, and nothing in the sizes or dimensions I need. I looked at the pressure treated lumber but it didn't say what kind of wood it was. I asked the "sales" guy, and he had no idea, but took me to the customer service desk in the lumber department to find out. Both of them gave me the same answer when I asked what kind of wood it was. First answer was "pressure treated". Thanks, I can read that. What "kind" of wood is it?, I asked again. "Prime" they said. I said that prime is a grade of wood, not a kind of wood. Received blank looks. So I then asked if it was Southern Pine. "Yes, I think so!" was the reply, so I guess they just needed some prompting! I guess I will have to find a real lumber yard, but first will give Lowes a try.

Tomorrow the pastor and church here who have been helping me, need to pick up some donated office furniture, so I'm able to use my truck for that and repay them some for their kindness. Then in the afternoon I will go to my cousin's to look at the truck camper! :wings:

Vic

[VicHanson]

I finally got to drive my truck today, the first time I have every driven an NPR. It is definitely not a Honda!! The 5 speed shifter is reversed, I'm used to 1st being top left and reverse being bottom right. The NPR has reverse in the top left position, 1st below that and 5th being bottom right. There is a strong spring to push against to get to the far left for reverse and 1st, and a somewhat less strong spring to get to 4th and 5th. The 1st gear is very low, which will be nice for off road driving, but it easily starts in 2nd, at least with no load on it. I think I will be able to get used to it fairly quickly.

A bigger difference is the low speed of the Isuzu diesel engine. It doesn't have a tach but it is really a low revving engine. I need to read the manual tonight and see what they recommend for shift points, but 10 mph seems about right to shift out of 2nd, with 15 being about max. My friend, pastor Eddie said that when he picked it up and drove it back to the church, he couldn't get it above 70 mph on the freeway. Does that sound normal to any of you familiar with the NPR? It seems to have plenty of power at low RPMs, I didn't get on the freeway so never got it above 50 mph.

I was pleased with how it drove, handles well and turns nice and tight. I was a bit concerned making my first U turn at an intersection, and realized too late that I should have tried one in a parking lot first. However it turned very sharply, which I guess is an advantage of the cab over design. You can bet that I was really being careful and watching my mirrors on turns so that I didn't cut the corners too close!

I was also very happy with how it rode. The truck was empty, but does have the 14' cargo box on it, with a power lift gate. It wasn't harsh or rough, felt smooth and controlled over bumps and a couple of dips. Will see how it does on the freeway tomorrow. I love the wide open view and the high seating position, lots of glass with the big windows and windshield.

So far all is good, I'll keep you informed.
Vic

[VicHanson]

A quick update - I drove to Fort Meyers, FL on Thursday, about 140 miles. The truck drove and handled well, but I was going into a strong headwind almost the whole way and mileage was terrible! I haven't filled yet but looks like it got about 10 MPG! I was hoping/expecting about 15 mpg so that was a big disappointment. Hopefully it was the headwind and the high box. I was driving right at 60 mph, which is what I expect to travel at. Maybe I will have to slow down even more!

At first glance the truck camper looked pretty good, there was some rot around the bathroom at floor level in the back, so figured it was probably the shower leaking. However when I started taking the siding off to look at it, it is much worse than it appeared. It looks like it was the seams leaking in the siding, and goes all the way around on the left side to the front. There is a lot of damage where the water heater is, which is also where the water inlets are. Not sure if it is the hose connection or not, but everything around there was rotten.

The camper construction is 1x2s laying flat, with a very thin plywood on the inside and none on the outside, just the aluminum siding attached to the framework. And 3/4" of fiberglass insulation. I will have to take much of the siding off to repair the wood, so am thinking about putting 1/8" plywood under the siding, and maybe putting in a better insulation.

I did also consider cannibalizing the camper and using the cargo box on the truck but have pretty well ruled out that idea. There is some serious looking rust on the truck frame, where the box attaches to that. The floor of the box frame is steel and there is a 1x4 between that and the truck frame. There is lots of rust in spots where the wood touches the frame. I'm wondering if maybe they used pressure treated wood directly on the metal and didn't put anything between them to protect the metal. So, I want to take the box off and check the frame carefully, clean up all the rust and repaint it. The box also has the power lift gate, which would be nice to load a motorcycle, but it is heavy, hangs low, and is in the way to put on a trailer hitch, so I think I will get rid of both of them (they are actually welded together).

I've got lots of photos, but haven't had internet access until today. I will try to get some posted soon and document the progress.

[kerry]

Don't know about the Isuzu but 70mph would be about the top end for a Fuso FG. 11mpg is about the low end of a Fuso in my experience, so 10mpg is not out of the question in my opinion.
Too bad about the rot in the camper. That's always a problem in wood based campers. Years ago I sold a Toyota pickup based Class C camper to a friend. A few years later his wife was laying in bed in the cabover and crashed right thru down onto the hood of the truck. The good news is that they are pretty easy to rebuild. Last time I was over at RV.net on the truck camper forum I saw lots of good pictures on rebuilding rotted wooden frames. If it were me, I'd rebuild with better quality wood and fasteners and glue everything.

[jhrodd]

I just got back from a 3000 mile trip in the FE (6 spd. auto) and averaged 10.4 mpg with a scooter on the front bumper and 7 more on a trailer behind. Drove down the Oregon Coast and through the Redwoods......to Las Vegas then back through Northern Nevada and Idaho

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk103/jhrodd/BELLINGHAM027a.jpg?t=1268000506

[Michael Slade]

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk103/jhrodd/BELLINGHAM027a.jpg?t=1268000506

I am liking that package. Tell me about the cargo storage below the slide-in camper? Are the boxes below the bed also custom?

Looks like a nice compact set-up.

[jhrodd]

The Scooters of Bellingham club (SOB's) voted to attend a scooter rally in Las Vegas for our Winter getaway and I hauled 8 scooters down including a 650 Burgman (big scooter) while the other members flew in for the weekend. I put a front hitch on the Fuso and still got away within the axle limits with a 150 Genuine Buddy on the front rack. I managed to squeeze 7 scooters on my 14' trailer. Everyone chipped in for fuel and we were going south for a vacation anyway so it worked out well. The camper is a stock S&S 11fbsc with the wheel well recesses inclosed. The tool boxes and fender are pro-tec off the shelf units.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk103/jhrodd/camper.jpg?t=1268008297

[VicHanson]

I went to Home Depot today, not a very good selection of lumber, will have to look some other places. I had ordered a combo set of Ryobi 18v tools while still in Peru, when I opened the box here I was quite disappointed to see that the battery charger was only a trickle charger, takes 12 hours to charge the battery! I there was only 1 battery for 5 tools. So I bit the bullet today and got another combo set with a real charger, 2 batteries and another drill and circular saw. The 2 drills with be nice, one for drilling and the other for screws. I don't need the second saw but it was cheaper to get the combo set then the other items separately.

Very nice looking camper, jhrodd! I filled my fuel tank today and was able to figure the mileage - it was 11.5 mpg.

Vic

[VicHanson]

Thanks, Peter, I will check them out!

Here are some photos.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=1342&albumid=330&dl=1268010418&thumb=1 http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=1343&albumid=330&dl=1268010418&thumb=1 http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=1344&albumid=330&dl=1268010418&thumb=1 http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=1348&albumid=330&dl=1268010831&thumb=1 http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=1347&albumid=330&dl=1268010734&thumb=1 http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=1346&albumid=330&dl=1268010734&thumb=1

You can see larger photos in the album on my profile.

[john101477]

I have an NPR with 14ft flatbed. been tryin to sell it but no dice yet. emailed the Hackney"s about their rig and trips and then found this thread. neatless to say I am watching very intently now. Sounds like insurance was a PITA but not undoable.
Subscribed

[jhrodd]

I have my FE140 insured with progressive for $275/ year as a commercial truck.

[VicHanson]

John - Are you trying to sell the whole truck or just the flatbed? I'm planning on taking mine to a truck dealer tomorrow and see if they will give me anything for the bed.

jhrodd - $275 a year, wow that is cheap!! Is that just liability? Is the camper insured? My main concern was having the comprehensive coverage for the solar panels and electronics/batteries.

Peter - Shoreline Lumber went out of business about a month ago, according to my cousin here.

[john101477]

trying to sell the truck. equipment prices have dropped so much though it is hard to part with it for the going rate now

[VicHanson]

Well I was trying to sell the box today, went to the International truck dealer and he offered me $500 for it, they would take it off and remove the lettering (all the lettering is just stick on). He said it is 'worth' $1500 off the truck and the lettering removed. I bought some "Goof Off" and am going to try to get the letters off.

Went to the Isuzu dealer and he said they would sell it on consignment for me, he figured I could get $1500 for it as is, and they would try to sell it for $2000 and get the $500 for commission. But they didn't want to buy it outright. They want $388 to remove it from the truck, which is figured at 6 hours of labor, which seems high. Maybe I can work out a deal to do most of the work, and they just cut the lift gate from the frame and lift it off. I also asked about an auxiliary fuel tank, they want $1065 just for the tank and brackets, not including any hoses or pump, plus $355 for labor. Looks like I will be going a different route for that!

It is $190.50 for a new wheel, the truck doesn't have a spare. I also got some prices for filters: Air - $43 for Japan Isuzu, $29 for China Isuzu; Oil - $24.50; Fuel - $13.24. I haven't looked any other place, are they available for less at NAPA or other auto parts stores?

Will probably try to sell the box on Craigslist and see what happens for a week or so.

I found some nice looking stuff for the siding of the bike garage today at Lowes, 4x8 sheets of textured FRP, waterproof, .09" thick for $32.50. They also had what looked like the same thing, but it was called NRP, which was only $24 a sheet. Of course there wasn't anyone there that new what the difference is. According to this website http://www.cranecomposites.com/PDFs/6909_corp_tech.pdf the NRP is not fiberglass reinforced, where FRP is, and FRP if supposed to be vastly superior. Has anyone used either of these?

I was thinking of putting 5mm Luan plywood on the outside of the camper and then the FRP on the outside of that.

I plan on taking out the pink fiberglass batting insulation and putting in R-Matte Plus 3 sheathing. In 3/4" thickness ($14 for a 4x8 sheet) it has a R-5 rating instead of the blue Styrofoam brand ($12) which has R-4 rating. The R-Matte also has a water resistant membrane on both the inside and the outside, which is a sandwich of aluminum and plastic.

Ahh, I can see the signs pointing to a large over budget factor already!

Vic

[gait]

warm air sometimes helps with the lettering

[kerry]

I got my Fuso spare wheels off Ebay. Probably could also get one at a truck junkyard. You could probably get a wheel and tire from Busbees for that price:
http://www.busbeetruckparts.com/ You'll want to bookmark their site since they are specialists in Isuzu and Fuso used parts. They should have a fuel tank also.
I think the dealer who is offering to consign the box is the best bet myself. Most people who want box trucks are commercial operations and have no interest in installing a box themselves. But buying a good used box from the dealer where they purchased their truck seems like something a businessman might do. $388 to remove does not seem like a bad price to me.
If I'm thinking of the same stuff, I have used the FRP but always indoors. It's used a lot in restaurant bathrooms. Don't know how it would hold up to UV light. It's held up well in my applications--bathrooms and kitchen splash panels.

[1speed]

If you need specialized wood products, try these guys, right up the road from us. http://www.alvahardwoods.com/

I would like to check out your rig sometime.

[VicHanson]

gait - I guessed that last night, it was getting increasingly difficult last evening after the sun went down. This morning I put it in the sun and in just a few minutes they came off much easier. I got one side done this morning, hope to finish it this afternoon. Then I will use the Goof Off to clean off the sticky residue, it works good for that. I think with a bit of cleaning and maybe waxing, the letter outlines won't show.

Kerry - Thanks for the link to Busbee, I will check it out. I was also thinking the consignment deal might be the best way to go. I put it on Craigslist for $1500 yesterday afternoon and had about 5 calls right away, all wanting to buy the truck for $1500. I went back and edited my ad to stress that the truck isn't included! When I told the last guy it was just the box, he said "Oh, I guess I should have read the ad". Duh!
Trying to remember if the FRP info said anything about UV exposure, will have to check.

Jim - That's great that there is another Expo member here, would be great to meet you! Someone else mentioned Alva Hardwoods, might have to check it out as well.

Vic

[1speed]

What size is the cargo box? Did you sell it yet? Is there any damage to the box?

[VicHanson]

Jim, I was told it was a 14' box, but the actual outside measurement is 14 1/2' by 8' wide. The box is in very good shape but the lift gate has some rust on it (but works perfect). I got most of the lettering off today. There are photos on the Craigslist ad here: http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/cto/1636353685.html

[kerry]

Jim, I was told it was a 14' box, but the actual outside measurement is 14 1/2' by 8' wide. The box is in very good shape but the lift gate has some rust on it (but works perfect). I got most of the lettering off today. There are photos on the Craigslist ad here: http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/cto/1636353685.html

Five minutes with a rattle can of $3 black paint would improve the appearance of the lift platform substantially.

[VicHanson]

Thanks, Kerry, I will put it on my to do list. But it will need to be wire brushed some first! I got the letters off the sides today, still need to do the roll up door.

Here are the prices I got from Busbee: 1 wheel - $125, 2 wheels - $200, shipping - about $25 per wheel. Used tires 215 85 16" - $50 each. 33 gal. side tank with mounting brackets - $250. All for Isuzu NPR. I might try to stop there on my way north and pick them up, unless I can find something cheaper locally.

Vic

[1speed]

Jim, I was told it was a 14' box, but the actual outside measurement is 14 1/2' by 8' wide. The box is in very good shape but the lift gate has some rust on it (but works perfect). I got most of the lettering off today. There are photos on the Craigslist ad here: http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/cto/1636353685.html

Thanks for the info and link to the pics. I have an idea rattling around in my head for the box. (lots of room to rattle!)
I would have no use for the lift gate though.

[VicHanson]

I got all of the lettering cleaned off of the truck box yesterday, this afternoon I got the lift platform repainted and it looks much better. Need to do a bit of touch on on the roll up door and then it will be ready to remove and sell. But before I remove it, I need to decide what materials I need to buy and go get those while I still have the box on the truck.

I was planning on building the flatbed for the camper out of wood, but a friend of my cousin's has an aluminum fabrication shop, and he gave me a quote of $940 to build the frame out of 4" aluminum, and mount it on the truck. This price does not include the decking material, I am still planning on using plywood for that. Any thoughts on the price? It seems resonable to me, but it is quite a bit more than a wood frame would cost. Trying to decide if it is worth it?

I was all set to use 2 layers of 15/32" pressure treated plywood for the deck, but was told that it would have to dry for up to 30 days before it could be sealed or even glued together. Has anyone glued PT plywood together? Also, any idea how much glue (Elmer's wood glue) it would take to glue two 4x8 sheets of plywood together? The 'experts' at Lowes said it could take close to a gallon, which seems like a lot!

I'm considering switching to 'exterior' grade plywood (not marine), which is about $5 a sheet more than interior plywood at Lowes, the guys at Home Depot had never heard of it. I remember exterior grade used to be common in California. Is that a West Coast thing or isn't it used much anymore? Then I would use Thompson's Water Seal and a polyurethane varnish to seal it.
Any thoughts?

Thanks, Vic

PS I got down to South Fort Myers to see Jim last week, enjoyed visiting with him and seeing his trailer.

[VicHanson]

Due to the time and effort to rebuild my current camper I am again considering building a camper from scratch, and using the truck camper for parts. I have to take all the siding off the camper, got the left side done today. Many of the 1x2s need replacing, as well as the only 1x4 (one on each side), which supports the over the cab bed. I removed the 1x4 today and found that it is stapled to every joining 1x2 on the inside as well as the outside. It is also glued to the interior 1/8" plywood, so delaminated part of that when I pulled it off. About a 1/3 of that plywood is rotten and should be replaced, but there is no way to do that without removing all of the interior cabinets and the bathroom. It has a vinyl covering on the inside, which is OK, so I could possibly just glue the ridgid foam insulation directly to the plywood, or whatever is left of it and it might be OK. I was planning on putting Lauan plywood over the insulation, under the siding, so it would still be stronger than before.

I had the thought today that it might be easier to build a whole new camper rather than try to rebuild the walls of the current one. If I made it the same size and basically the same layout, I could reuse all of the components of the old camper, cabinets, shelves and closets, bathroom, bed, appliances, even the wireing and the plumbing. It looks like it would be fairly easy to change from a rear door to a side door at the same time, which would be an added bonus.

Something more to think about anyway!

On a side note, I bought a used mtn. bike today, it is a Schwinn S-30 full suspension, aluminum frame, for $75. The seller said he had only ridden it a few miles - it looks brand new. They aren't a very expensive bike, but rides and shifts good, and it perfect for what I want it for. After a few crashes and broken items (on me, not the bike) a number of years ago, I don't expect to be doing much technical single track anyway.

[1speed]

Due to the time and effort to rebuild my current camper I am again considering building a camper from scratch, and using the truck camper for parts. I have to take all the siding off the camper, got the left side done today. Many of the 1x2s need replacing, as well as the only 1x4 (one on each side), which supports the over the cab bed. I removed the 1x4 today and found that it is stapled to every joining 1x2 on the inside as well as the outside. It is also glued to the interior 1/8" plywood, so delaminated part of that when I pulled it off. About a 1/3 of that plywood is rotten and should be replaced, but there is no way to do that without removing all of the interior cabinets and the bathroom. It has a vinyl covering on the inside, which is OK, so I could possibly just glue the ridgid foam insulation directly to the plywood, or whatever is left of it and it might be OK. I was planning on putting Lauan plywood over the insulation, under the siding, so it would still be stronger than before.

I had the thought today that it might be easier to build a whole new camper rather than try to rebuild the walls of the current one. If I made it the same size and basically the same layout, I could reuse all of the components of the old camper, cabinets, shelves and closets, bathroom, bed, appliances, even the wireing and the plumbing. It looks like it would be fairly easy to change from a rear door to a side door at the same time, which would be an added bonus.

Something more to think about anyway!

On a side note, I bought a used mtn. bike today, it is a Schwinn S-30 full suspension, aluminum frame, for $75. The seller said he had only ridden it a few miles - it looks brand new. They aren't a very expensive bike, but rides and shifts good, and it perfect for what I want it for. After a few crashes and broken items (on me, not the bike) a number of years ago, I don't expect to be doing much technical single track anyway.

Sounds like a HUGE project! Keep us posted.

[kerry]

Due to the time and effort to rebuild my current camper I am again considering building a camper from scratch, .

Certainly could be done. My take on the matter is that there are tons of used campers available on the market at fairly low prices. I'd look for a used camper in good condition rather than take the large amount of time and money necessary to build one from scratch. Probably a break even proposition when it comes to $$. It would be advantageous to purchase a used camper that spent its life in a dry climate.

[VicHanson]

OK guys, thanks, wiser heads have prevailed and I will rebuild the existing truck camper. I just met with Dana, the one who will build the aluminum flat bed frame, and he gave me some ideas about repairing the camper, and strongly recommended not starting over and building a new camper shell. I gave him the go ahead to start building the new frame, it should be ready by Tuesday of next week. I will then take the truck to his shop and he will cut the frame where it was extended to mount the lift platform, and loosen the mounting bolts on the box. His shop is near the Isuzu dealer, so I will then take the truck there and have them lift off the box and have them sell it on consignment for me. Then I will take the truck back to Dana's shop and they will mount the new frame on the truck, and then I will put the plywood bed on it.

I've got all the siding and insulation off the camper so now I can see what wood needs to be replaced. I also took the air conditioner off, and will take out the furnace. I think I will put the water heated back in, and also will keep the oven. Unfortunately I didn't check any of them to see if they worked before I started pulling things apart! I am debating whether or not to keep the refrigerator - it is only propane or 120v, not 12v. I would like to replace it with a small dorm type 120v fridge and run it off the inverter. I found a Magic Chef at Lowes that is very efficient, manual defrost, has a nice freezer and is the perfect size (4.1 cf, plus freezer), and is only $200, but it says in the manual not to use it with an inverter. Home Depot has a similar one (Whirlpool?) but it is $300, has auto defrost and not quite as efficient, but it doesn't say anything about not using it with an inverter. Guess I need to call them and see if it is different from other refrigerators.

Well I need to get back to work on the camper, thanks again for the advice.
Vic

[whatcharterboat]

I would like to replace it with a small dorm type 120v fridge and run it off the inverter. I found a Magic Chef at Lowes that is very efficient, manual defrost, has a nice freezer and is the perfect size (4.1 cf, plus freezer), and is only $200, but it says in the manual not to use it with an inverter. Home Depot has a similar one (Whirlpool?) but it is $300, has auto defrost and not quite as efficient, but it doesn't say anything about not using it with an inverter. Guess I need to call them and see if it is different from other refrigerators.


Vic,
Check with them on this. As a very loose rule, anything with digital control needs to run through a pure sine wave inverter. Possibly these guys are saying "inverter" to generally cover themselves when they should be more accurately saying "don't use the product with a square wave or modified sine wave inverter". I reckon it's worth a check if an AC electric fridge is what you've decided on.

Of course, it's technically not as efficient as 24V DC electric due to the inverter inefficiencies and they usually have a higher duty cycle (from the thinner insulation) so they will use a little more power but sure, an AC fridge will initially be a fraction of the price. Then again a pure sine inverter big enough to run a fridge will be alot more than a square wave. So weigh up everything carefully.

I can give you some tips on gas(propane) fridge installation (if you ever need just PM) but the last one I installed was way back in '98.

John

[kerry]

Everyone has different opinions on fridges. But for what it's worth, I far prefer a propane frig to an electric one. First off, there is no compressor to fail but secondly, electric fridges are typically power hogs if run off batteries. I love my propane/120volt fridges.

[VicHanson]

It's not a fancy fridge, just plain basic model, no digital controls. I checked on their website and the downloadable manual there doesn't say anything about inverters or RV use. On some other models it does, on some it doesn't. My guess is that they put that in there just for product liability protection, not sure if they are adding it or taking it out of their manuals.

It only draws 1 amp if I remember right, 290 KW per year according to the yellow energy tag.

I sent them a mail to customer service, and it was rejected - mailbox full !! Guess I will need to call them.

[VicHanson]

I bought a bunch of 1x2, 1x3 and 1x4 today, and started cutting them to replace the bad wood. Will put them in with Liquid Nails adhesive, and I think staples, like was done at the factory. Too hard to use screws with the inside paneling on. Feels good to be starting on putting it together, instead of tearing it apart!

[john101477]

pics or it didn't happen lol
I have been watching intently and reading along. would love to see your preperations as you go. As i stated earlier, I also own an 01 NPR flatbed. I figure if i can't sell the dang thing i might as well use it

[VicHanson]

I was hoping to get lots of work done on the camper today, but spent most of the day running around shopping. I put the first new board on this morning, but the staples I had were one inch in length, and they should be 5/8". I went looking for some, and finally found them at a builder's supply store - $88 for a box of 10,000! After a few other stops, I found them for about $30, but still a box of 10,000. I probably should have gotten them, but will see if I can a smaller box, only need a couple of hundred.

I bought some more lumber, including the plywood for the flat bed, finally decided to go with treated, after much debate. I was also looking for a truck parts store for filters last night by Internet, and found another Isuzu truck dealer, they also sell Fuso and Hino. I went there today to see if they would buy the truck body. They offered me $1000 and they would remove it. I explained that I was going to have the flatbed builder prepare it for removal and asked if they would give me $1100, which they agreed to. So on Tuesday, I will take it there and they said they would have my check ready, and take the bed off!

I also looked at the refrigerator again at Home Depot, and the price had gone up $20. I asked when that happened so the salesman checked the computer and it still showed $199 there, so he said he would sell it for that. But when he went to get one they didn't have any in stock, so I asked about the floor model, and he gave me that with a $25 discount.

The sticker on the back says it draws 1.5 amps and the yellow label says 290 KW per year. I bought a Kill a Watt meter so see what it uses and after it got cold, in 2 hours it has used less than .04 KW (still shows .03 so it is between .03 and .04). 290 KW per year equals just under .8 KW per day or .033 per hour, so it is very efficient! It is almost silent as well, which is important when it is just a few feet from my bed. I'll check it again after 24 hours and then after a few days to get a more exact reading, but I should have plenty of solar power to run that. It is a bit of a $200 gamble to see if it will work OK with the inverter, but life is full of uncertainties!

OK John, a few pics! Two 'before' photos and one of the first new board! Didn't get anything more done on it today.
38935 38936 38937

[VicHanson]

Forgot to mention one thing - I filled with fuel yesterday after a week of city driving, took 11.76 gallons for 180 miles, so 15.3 mpg. I am much happier with that than the 11.5 last time. I was driving very gently.

[1speed]

...OK John, a few pics! Two 'before' photos and one of the first new board! Didn't get anything more done on it today.
38935 38936 38937

Holy :Wow1: ! Talk about a project.

Still think you'll be gone by the time I get back from the Expo?

[john101477]

wow lots to do but it will be worth it

[VicHanson]

First some good news about the fridge, it only used .42 KW in the first 24 hours, according to the published rating, it should have used .79, so it is much more efficient than stated. I finally found out how to change it to get the current amp usage, but then I couldn't find it running all day. Every time I went by it to check it, it wasn't running. Finally caught it running a few hours ago, it was showing 1.08 amps, but as I stayed and watched it, it slowly dropped down to .96 before it shut off. It uses .08 amps in standby.

I made some good progress on the camper today, in spite of spending lots of time thinking and checking to make sure I was doing it right. I put some of the smaller pieces together on a table, that way I could staple it on both sides, as well as it would have been difficult to do it in place because there wasn't anything behind to support the pieces. I also replaced some of the 1x2 pieces with 1x4, because it was easier to tie the pieces together. Here are a few of the latest pictures.

Oh, I was able to use the 1" staples for many areas, and was able to cut some of them shorter to use where the 1" ones were too long.

Vic

[VicHanson]

Jim, I could still be here when you get back at the way things are going now!

Peter, thanks for reminding me about the epoxy to rebuild the weak wood, I will try to get some right away.

[VicHanson]

Peter, If I'm understanding you correctly, you are talking about the shelf plywood, meaning the flat plywood under the wide portion that would be above the side of the pickup in normal use. On the driver's side, that was rotten on the outside the full length of the camper. The worst place was where the water inlets were, both to fill the tank and the city water, so something must have been leaking there. I cut out the whole piece of plywood and am replacing it. Much of the inner skin plywood is gone, all that is left is one layer of plywood and the vinyl inner coating. To replace that would have been a major problem so I am leaving that in place, I will bond it to the ridgid foam insulation, but it won't be contributing any structual strength (it was only 1/8" to begin with). The 5mm Lauan plywood will go over that, also attached with Liquid Nails adhesive, as well as stapled to the wood framework. I am planning on using Thompson's wood sealer on the plywood. I will put the original aluminum siding back on over this. Any advice on the best type of sealer to use for the seams and joints on the aluminum siding? I have heard there is a roll of putty type sealer, or the caulk gun type.

Yes, the garage will be structually attached to the bed overhang, so it won't be supporting itself anymore. Also I will be building storage areas under the side shelves, they will be resting on, and attached to the plywood decking of the new flatbed. Still not sure exactly how I will do the doors, I have a quote from the flatbed builder, but it's quite expensive (about $750), so will be doing something cheaper with wood, not aluminum.

[VicHanson]

Peter,

Besides the bikes, the garage will hold 6 Trojan T-105 batteries (in a vented box, sealed from the rest of the garage) and hopefully about 10 gallons gas, 30 gallons diesel fuel, and 50 gallons of fresh water. I'm moving the LP tanks from below the refrigerator to open up that area and am debating whether to put them on the other side, or in the garage area.

Thanks for the tip about Thompson's. I got the driver's side rebuilt today, except for 1 board and the redoing the water inlets, The outside 110v outlet, and hooking the LP lines back up. Started to put in the insulation to see how that goes - it is pretty easy. However I think it is best to get it a little too small rather than a little too big, it's hard to shave off just a little, the cracks can be filled with spray foam.

Doing a completly new outside skin would really be nice, for looks and probably easier, however I'm afraid it is too expensive. The flatbed builder said he has some aluminum sheeting, I'll probably check on that and see if it is at all a possibility. But then I suppose it will need painting, unless I go for the shine. This is supposed to be on a budget, but I haven't really been sticking to it!

I'll put today's pictures in a separate post, have to switch to my computer.
Vic

[VicHanson]

Here are the photos from today:

39045
This is the before photo of the corner bathroom compartment in the back.
39046
Here is the old piece of plywood
39047
Looking up at the opened up area - sink, oven, I took out the heater, bathroom
39048
Side view with new wood
39049
New plywood in place (except for the small piece in the back end)
39050
I had to leave a little bit of the old plywood, it was screwed in under the oven and I couldn't get at the screws
39051
A couple pieces of insulation in place

[kerry]

That's really coming along. Are you going to be able to reuse the exterior siding?

All your pictures make me ask a question. What kind of magic turns $300 worth of cheap lumber into a $15k truck camper?

[VicHanson]

Hi Kerry,

Didn't get much done yesterday, went shopping for more wood after church, then only got in a few hours of work before it started raining. It is rainy much more than normal here, I am told it is because of El Nino. Seems to have just stopped now, next rain forecast for Friday, so hopefully can get some good work days in.

The quick answer to your question, "What kind of magic turns $300 worth of cheap lumber into a $15k truck camper?", is About $10 worth of staples, some glue, and a bunch of screws!!

I suppose the full answer includes lots of labor and the appliances, plumbing, wiring and "value added".

I plan on reusing the exterior siding, not sure what I will side the garage with yet.

[VicHanson]

Today I spent a lot of time installing the insulation. The biggest problem are all the small sections, and most of the 1x2 are not exactly square, so it takes a long time to measure and cut each piece. And of course some times I measured wrong, or wrote it down wrong, or just didn't cut it right, so I got to redo some of them. I had finished putting the insulation on the part under the bed, and then realized that I still hadn't taken off one of the aluminum reinforcing corner pieces. Of course when I took that off, the wood was bad under it so had to replace that too.

Tomorrow I take the truck in to get the box taken off, and then need to clean up the truck frame to mount the new flatbed frame, so I probably won't get much work done on the camper. The good news is that it isn't supposed to rain again until Friday!

The yellow stuff is spray foam insulation, real messy stuff, especially when you put to much in - it continues to grow for almost the next minute!

39150
Thought I was done here, then I saw the metal in the corner

39151
Here is with the corner wood replaced

[VicHanson]

A beautiful sunny day here today! I drove to Tri-County Truck and Equipment to sell the box today. I thought they sold Isuzu, Fuso, and Hino trucks, but the card I have just says Hino trucks, but also parts and accessories for Isuzu, Mitsubishi, UD and Workhorse. Anyway, Renae was very efficient and had the body off in less than 2 hours, with 1 forklift, a big floor jack and a bunch of jack stands. He even took the tail/brake lights off the box and hooked them up on the truck temporarily for me. I asked for the old mudflaps but he gave me some new ones, with their dealership name on them. I was very pleased with my dealings with Tri-County, very nice people and seemed fair and honest, so happy to advertise for them.

In the afternoon I cleaned up the rust on the truck frame and put Ospho (sp?) on it, it is supposed to stop the rust and even chemically change it to something different, can't remember what. Anyway, it is great stuff! Tomorrow morning I will prime and paint the frame, and then in the afternoon take the truck in to get the new flatbed frame put on it. I'm glad the Isuzu has thicker frame steel than the Fuso because it was really rusted. Not sure if the truck was originally from the East Florida coast, where I bought it, of if it was from the rust belt somewhere.

I had been planning on putting the camper on it right away, so that I could get started on the storage compartments. I think it will be easier to build them with the camper on the truck rather than do it first and then mount the camper. However I realized that I won't be able to use the truck for awhile then, so I need to do some more work on the camper first, so I won't be without a vehicle for any longer than necessary.

I ordered a 2000 watt inverter last night, it is a Tripp Lite PV2000FC PowerVerter Plus, supposed to work good with refrigerators, electronics, and power tools. It is not pure sine but they call it Pulse-width Modulated Sine Wave, not sure if that is really any different than normal modified sine wave or just advertising speak. I got it from Buy.com for $381 with free shipping. You can see it here: http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=10330490

Attached are photos of the naked truck and the new flatbed.

39171 39172 39173

[kerry]

Flatbed seems very nice, especially for the price.

[VicHanson]

Today was an exciting day, got the flatbed frame put on the truck! Dana had told me he would call after lunch when he was ready to put the bed on. In the morning I used spray Rust-Oleum primer on the truck frame because it allows painting right away instead of after 24 hours like the 1 quart cans say. I wanted to paint the whole frame, not just the part that was rusty areas, so used regular Rust-Oleum in a quart can for that. It was still a little tacky when we started putting the bed on but not too bad. I put a thick bead of Heavy Duty Liquid Nails adhesive on the frame, then we put a treated 1x3 on between the truck frame and the aluminum bed frame. We also put 2 layers of duct tape on the bottom of the aluminum frame to protect it from the treated wood. The bed frame is made of two 4” C beams going front to back, and 3” C beams going side-to-side on 16” spacing. There is also a 4” C beam all the way around the outer perimeter, with the opening facing out. The 3” cross beams are set down 3/4” so the plywood bed will be flush with the perimeter beam on the top.

Dana also mounted the mud flaps and the tail lights on the aluminum frame, as well as the fuel filler tube. I asked him if he had any experience installing an auxiliary fuel tank and he said he could do that. He also said he had an aluminum tank that he had built for someone and then they didn't take it. It was about 50 gallons and was too wide to fit underneath the bed, but he said he could cut it down so that it would fit flush with the bed, and it will still hold about 36 gallons. Dana is a good friend of my cousin Jim, who I am staying with. When I paid for the flatbed, he said that he had given me the “cousin Jim” price. So I was hoping for the same with the fuel tank, and sure enough he gave me a good price on that too, I think he said $230 for the tank, including the modifications and installation, which is a little less than a price I had gotten for a used NPR tank (32 gallons). There will be an extra charge to hook it up to the stock tank, not sure what that will cost yet as we are still working on the plans for that. We hope to do it with gravity feed so that it doesn't need a pump. He wants to install the tank before I put the plywood on the frame, and I also need to do some more work on the camper before I mount that, so it isn't a problem. Hopefully by Monday will be ready to put it on!

39206
Dana putting on the mud flaps

39207
Mark welding the mounting flanges on the bed

39208
It's all mounted and ready!

[FusoFG]

We hope to do it with gravity feed so that it doesn't need a pump.

most semi trucks with dual tanks just connect the drain fitting on the bottom of each tank with a hose and treat it as one big fuel tank.

because we travel rough roads / off road we were afraid that a low hanging hose might rip off on something and strand us with no fuel.

we connected the supply hose on each tank and the supply hose to the engine to a 3 way valve. we also connected the return hose on each tank and the return line from the engine to another 3 way valve so each tank is isolated and all the hoses are up high.


all we have to do to switch tanks is to turn both valves from one tank to the other.

[gait]

Maybe useful to keep the tanks separate just in case one gets dinged.
The Pollack 6 port changeover switch may be useful, changes over both hoses on both tanks as well as electric gauge changeover. Its motorised (not a solenoid) so only consumes power when changing over (fraction of a second)
http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitems/fuel-tank-selector-valves/light-truck-6-port-motor-driven-valve?
They are US made. I've recently seen them on eBay from Aus and UK. Be careful though, apparently there may be some copies around.

[john101477]

Looks like it is coming together really nice Vic. The aluminum bed is kind of neat. where they able to set up mounting locations for the camper?

[ozzyfishaman]

I just got back from a 3000 mile trip in the FE (6 spd. auto) and averaged 10.4 mpg with a scooter on the front bumper and 7 more on a trailer behind. Drove down the Oregon Coast and through the Redwoods......to Las Vegas then back through Northern Nevada and Idaho

Hi jhrodd,what is the total height of your Truck / Camper set up ?

Ozzyfishaman (John):coffee:

[VicHanson]

most semi trucks with dual tanks just connect the drain fitting on the bottom of each tank with a hose and treat it as one big fuel tank.

because we travel rough roads / off road we were afraid that a low hanging hose might rip off on something and strand us with no fuel.

we connected the supply hose on each tank and the supply hose to the engine to a 3 way valve. we also connected the return hose on each tank and the return line from the engine to another 3 way valve so each tank is isolated and all the hoses are up high.


all we have to do to switch tanks is to turn both valves from one tank to the other.

We thought of using the drain fitting. I don't really expect to be in too rough terrain with it as it is only 2WD, but keeping the tanks isolated from each other might be wise.

Gait - How much does the Pollack valve cost? I couldn't find it for sale anywhere.

John - The camper portion will be 5" higher than the garage part, to allow 49" height for the bike. Dana offered to make a mount for that but it was quite expensive so I am just doing that with wood - three 4x4s under the camper and 2x4s around the outside, with a 2x6 around this to tie the camper to the bed. The garage won't have a separate floor, it will bolt directly to the flatbed floor.

Jeffery - and any others,

How do you attach your camper to the flat bed? Is it all done at the base of the camper or do you have tie downs higher up in the front?

Vic

[gait]

Gait - How much does the Pollack valve cost? I couldn't find it for sale anywhere.
I'm in Aus. I bought mine about 3 years ago from US company website - no longer exists.
Note the spelling has no "c".
Clicking the map on Pollak's website gives address/agent in state
http://www.pollakaftermarket.com/aftermarket_rep.htm

eBay prices are around US$60 from US suppliers.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLLAK-6-Port-Electric-Fuel-Tank-Selector-Valve_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efacf76f0QQitemZ 270495872752QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAc cessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLLAK-6-Port-Motor-Driven-Selector-Valve-Kit-57-00_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cab69ca9dQQitemZ260 573874845QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories

Autozone (US automotive parts chain?) have Duralast FSV2 - Fuel Selector Valve - reputedly same as Pollak at US$60.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/oems/oemsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&fromType=oem&fromString=search&parentId=49-0&filterByKeyWord=fsv2&currentPage=1&navValue=14901765&categoryNValue=14999999&rootType=oem&itemId=1765-0&displayName=Fuel+Tank+Selector+Valve&_requestid=2515877

[VicHanson]

gait - Sorry, didn't realize that you live in Aus. Thanks for the Autozone link, they are a large nationwide auto parts chain here.

Didn't get much done today, running around for screws and bolts, filters for the truck, etc. - maybe tomorrow.

[whatcharterboat]

We thought of using the drain fitting. I don't really expect to be in too rough terrain with it as it is only 2WD, but keeping the tanks isolated from each other might be wise.


Hi Vic,

You can do this. If you want to just T them together, you will need to fit a ball valve on each drain fitting so you can isolate either tank if needed. Make really sure of the run between the tanks though. You may even need to run a bar across to support the hoses. The hiccup might be that the tailsahft is right about the same height as the drains meaning you could possibly go around the front of the engine rather than go under the shaft????? Hey, you'll have to check that yourself on the truck. The T and the whole length of the bridging hose has to stay as low as the drains or it won't work properly when it gets towards the bottom but sure.......it's a simple system and some prefer to have the tanks drain evenly to keep the weight level and I've even seen this setup with only one gauge in one tank as they will balance out. The isolation valves usually end up being used only in an emergency situation anyway.

Remember all those Pollak valves are 12 volt too. Well at least all the ones we get here are. Not 24v like you NPR so you'll have to reduce the voltage somewhere along the line. No problem with switching the gauge signal though AND they have 10mm & 8mm ports (or whatever that is in English....3/8" & 5/16", I think). The fuel lines on your NPR are probably 12mm & 10mm so you'll need some brass barbed and stepped joiners. The last thing you want is air leaks. Don't worry about theoretical reduced flow through the valve. It never bothers them.

John.

[VicHanson]

Hi Vic,

You can do this. If you want to just T them together, you will need to fit a ball valve on each drain fitting so you can isolate either tank if needed. Make really sure of the run between the tanks though. You may even need to run a bar across to support the hoses. The hiccup might be that the tailsahft is right about the same height as the drains meaning you could possibly go around the front of the engine rather than go under the shaft????? Hey, you'll have to check that yourself on the truck. The T and the whole length of the bridging hose has to stay as low as the drains or it won't work properly when it gets towards the bottom but sure.......it's a simple system and some prefer to have the tanks drain evenly to keep the weight level and I've even seen this setup with only one gauge in one tank as they will balance out. The isolation valves usually end up being used only in an emergency situation anyway.

Remember all those Pollak valves are 12 volt too. Well at least all the ones we get here are. Not 24v like you NPR so you'll have to reduce the voltage somewhere along the line. No problem with switching the gauge signal though AND they have 10mm & 8mm ports (or whatever that is in English....3/8" & 5/16", I think). The fuel lines on your NPR are probably 12mm & 10mm so you'll need some brass barbed and stepped joiners. The last thing you want is air leaks. Don't worry about theoretical reduced flow through the valve. It never bothers them.

John.

Thanks for the great idea, John, so simple, cheap and effective - I like it. It's a rainy morning here so will check out the routing of the fuel lines and see how it will work. No problem on 12v here, U.S. NPRs are 12v, not 24, they still have 2 batteries but they are hooked in parallel.

God bless, Vic

[whatcharterboat]

U.S. NPRs are 12v, not 24,

Well you learn something new everyday!!! Are they all 12v, I wonder ? Even the new ones?


God bless, Vic

Hey guess what.... He does.

[DzlToy]

with very very few exceptions, every car and truck in the US is 12 volt negative ground. Been that way for as long as I can remember. I am sure someone will prove me wrong somehow, but we dont get 24V auto stuff like much of the rest of the world. Some military stuff maybe and??

[VicHanson]

Yep, even the new ones, as DzlToy said, that is the standard here.

Got my inverter today but it doesn't seem to be working right, only putting out 90-100 volts instead of 120, need to call the company tomorrow and see what they say.

[VicHanson]

Forgot that yesterday was Sat. and Tripp Lite was closed, so still don't have any answer on the inverter.

This afternoon my cousin Jim and I decided to put the camper on the truck so we could move it under a covered work area - more rain is in the forcast. The biggest problem was that I had taken the camper jacks off of it when I first started. The wood under them was all rotten and needed to be replaced. We decided to put the jacks under the over cab bed area, jack that up enough to get the end of the truck bed under it, and then jack up the rear of the camper and try to slide the camper on the truck, using pipe for rollers. Of course with the jacks not being attached, they were very wobbly and the camper started to slide sideways off of the stand. We quickly lowered it back down and next tried two 20 ton bottle jacks under the front of the camper.

We were able to get it up enough to get the truck under a few inches, using 2x12s on the frame. We then jacked up the back of the stand under the camper to see if we could raise the whole thing, block up the camper and then remove the stand out from under it. We were getting way too much moving around of the camper so Jim used his small John Deere tractor and loader to try to lift up just the back of the camper. We then blocked that up and took out the stand and put it back in sideways, just in case anything slipped. Now we tried to jack up the front again but that caused it to move forward a little on the truck and slipped off the loader. Thankfully the stand was right below it and that caught it. We also had a cable hoist attached to the front of the bed, with a sling going around the whole camper, to keep it from sliding backwards.

We finally decided to just lift up the back of the camper with the loader and I would try to back the truck under the camper, hoping it would slide onto the truck, with the loader holding it from moving backwards. This worked and we were able to get the camper part way on the truck, removed the stand and then got it all the way on. We got it moved to a covered work area about an hour before the rain started! Next we need to lift the camper back off the truck, using a combination of jacks and ceiling hoists, and put the stand back underneith so we can finish the bed of the truck

I tried loading the photos a little while ago (using a Verizon aircard on my laptop, and it wasn't getting a good signal), will try again after I post this.

Vic

[1speed]

You've got bad timing for working outside Vic. I've been in Fort Myers 13 years and this is the coldest, wettest winter since I moved here.

I'm buried getting my stuff ready for the Expo. If you're still here when I get back from AZ I want to come by and check out your progress.

[VicHanson]

OK, I'm outside now, actually in my truck because there are still a few rain drops, and I have a good signal so will post the photos.

39363
The front of the camper is up on the skid planks

39364
Jacking attempts

39365
Jacking up the back of the stand

39366
On part way with the stand sideways



39367

It's on!

39368

The little tractor that could!

[Ned B]

Vic,
I'll be following along as you continue your refit of the old shadow cruiser. I lived full time out of a 27' 5th wheel trailer from them. That very distinctive nose cap brought a smile to my face when I saw it. I was amazed at just how much rot was in there though, you're a much braver man than I am though for tackling that rebuild. I'd have been figuring out just how hard it would have been to refit the box truck myself at that point too. Best of luck with the project, can't wait to see it finished.

[VicHanson]

Jim - This is my coldest and wettest winter here too, of course it is my first! Sure was nice working out of the rain today!

Ned - That distinctive nose cap was the reason I wanted a Shadow Cruiser, I'm hoping that it will help a lot with wind resistance.

Tore out the bad stuff on the back today, the right rear corner was really bad, underneath the reinforcement for the camper jack. The biggest problem is going to be replacing the plywood part way underneath the bathroom. After much debate, I have decided to move the door from the back to the right side. I'm taking out the gas/120v fridge and putting in the new 120v one that I bought. After doing that, it will be very easy to move the door to the side. I plan on making the storage on that side only accessible from the inside, it will be under the side bench for the table, except for a section in the front. The fresh water tank is under the front bench, so I am going to try to put another water tank in the front along the side, and tie it into the original one.

39479
The framework and plywood are rotten for about 6-10" on the bottom

39480
I couldn't get the bolts loose because the nut inside was turning, so just ripped it all apart

39481
I don't know how it ever held up the camper!

[VicHanson]

I found the source of the water leak in the bathroom area, the black water tank under the toilet. The supports holding it up were not holding it up properly, so all that was supporting it was the drain pipe. The tank is cracked in a couple of places around the flange. Not sure if it can be fixed or not, but will try. If it doesn't work, will probably just take out the toilet and put in a portable one.

[VicHanson]

I decided if I was going to fix the holding tank I should take it out and do it right. It took a bit of doing - there were 12 screws in the floor of the shower pan holding it down. Something doesn't seem right with that, you think they might leak?!?!?

Got started on rebuilding the back end, then had second thoughts about my method so didn't get much done. I'll see if the new ideas in my head work out in wood tomorrow.

39617
This doesn't look good!

39618
Got the shower/holding tank out

39619

The leak is around the flange where the screwdriver is inserted

39620

Looks more like a sieve than a floor pan for a shower

[VicHanson]

No fooling, made some progress today, got the rear of the camper mostly rebuilt today! Took a lot of mental energy to work it all out, especially after either cutting some pieces too short (or maybe forgetting how I planned to do it), anyway it all worked out with a few minor modifications. Still need to cut a hole in the plywood for the black water drain, and put in a few vertical pieces.

I also need to get the camper off of the truck again so that I can go get my batteries and some other materials. Also my 30 day temporary registration expires tomorrow I think, so need to renew that. I want to get the camper mounted so I can send a photo of it to the Minnesota DMV if they give me any hassle registering it as a RV.

Vic

39662
New supports underneath and new plywood

39663
Side view of the shower area

39664

There was only one 1x2 here, I put a 2x4 to tie everything together better and act as sort of a bumper, and will put a 1x4 above it where the 1x2 was

[Ned B]

Vic,
far too late at this point, but I'd have just grafted the nose cap onto the utility box once I saw all that rot. However, onward and upward!

Going to be an interesting build, can't wait to see it finished. Oh and I found I had a picture of a 5er, not mine, but I had the same model. It was a good starter trailer though. I bet mine had more miles on it at the time than just about any other SC product. I literally crisscrossed the USA with it for three years.
I miss the lifestyle, but not the gas bills.

[VicHanson]

This afternoon we got the camper off of the truck again and back on the stand. We hoisted up the back end of the camper, jacked up the front end and drove the truck out - very easy compared to putting it on there. Then we put the stand back underneath. Now I can go get some needed materials, the batteries, and hopefully soon get the auxillary fuel tank installed.

[VicHanson]

After getting the camper under a roof, we have had over a week of nice weather with no rain! Ah, well, the days are beautiful so I'm not complaining. However I don't seem to be making much progress, too much time trying to find stuff, both on the internet and running around town.

I got the batteries on Monday, six T-105 6 volt Trojan golf cart batteries. I was planning on getting the 105RE (for renewable energy) but the distributor here doesn't even stock them so ended up getting the regular ones, as I got a good price on them - $87 each. Of course because I wasn't replacing any old ones, I didn't have cores to turn in, so had to pay $16 extra for each one for that, plus $1.50 each for hazard waste fee. Thankfully I didn't have to pay sales tax because they will be used with solar panels. I needed a battery charger and couldn't find one like the Vector one (2/4/10 amp) I left in Peru, so wasted a bunch of time looking and finally ended up getting the first one I looked at (2/4/6 amp) because it was the only one that had smart charging on 6v. There were also 2/4/10 and 2/4/12 models but they didn't even have a 6v range.

I've got the battery box almost finished, just need to seal the wood so the acid doesn't affect it, and put in a vent. The batteries are now all charged so I will test out the refrigerator with the inverter tomorrow. If all looks good, I will then take out the old 12/120 volt fridge and put in the new one. I also need to hook up the oven and water heater to the gas line and make sure they work. I think I will redo the water lines too, they are a flexible gray plastic and I've heard that it gets brittle and easily breaks after 10-15 years, and the camper is 20 years old. Still haven't found any ABS cement to repair the holding tank.

I needed to find a place to put the inverter, which is quite large, and there wasn't really a good place to put it in the camper. I finally realized that if I took the converter/charger/power panel out of where it was below the front bench, I could put it under the sink. All the wires came through this area so it worked out well, didn't need to lengthen any wires. Then I put a removable shelf over the water pump (which was where the power panel was) and there was room to put the inverter in there if I turned it sideways. There will be a separate remote meter/display panel for the inverter and charger, and I think that will fit above where the power panel is now.

Today I got the auxiliary fuel tank mounted, but it isn't hooked up yet, so need to figure out the details of that. Also my cousin gave me a good idea to put a dropped channel for the bike tires below the level of the garage floor, rather than raising up the whole camper to give the needed height in the garage. Dana couldn't do it today when he put the tank on because he didn't have the 5" channel needed for the tire width. He is going to bend a piece of aluminum stock to make it, hope to have that by Friday. Now I can put the plywood on the flatbed as well, so should see some progress soon.

Vic

39934
Having the hoists made it real easy

39935
Making sure the batteries all fit

39936
Completed battery box

39937
Power panel is in the top opening, the inverter is right below that

39938
The new fuel tank

[john101477]

lookin good Vic.

[dhackney]

PM from Vic:



Hi Doug,

I'm busy here in Florida working on my camper. Not sure if you've seen my build page, but there was lots of wood rot so it needed a major rebuild.

I'm about to start building the bike garage and would appreciate your advice on a couple of things. I'm hoping to get a Honda CRF230L dual sport if I can find a used one for a decent price, but haven't seen many available. There are quite a few of the off road version available but not the dual sport. Did you do the conversion on your 150s to make them street legal, or did you buy them that way someplace? I've seen kits for $500 or $600, but not sure how much trouble it is to get them registered.

I was using my bicycle today as a model for the motorcycle, to visualize the layout. My plan was to use the door as the ramp, but the door is only 4 feet high, so will need some kind of an extension to keep the angle gentle enough. It looks like a 6-7 foot ramp would be OK but I'm not sure. The 230 weighs 267 lbs so I'm sure it could be a bit of a challenge to balance the bike and get it up the ramp. I'm guessing that it's possible to "walk" it up, but using the bike in 1st gear so you don't have to push it?

Any advice or ideas from your experience would be greatly appreciated, either here, or if you want to post it on my build thread on the Mitsubishi truck for the benefit of all.

Thanks much,
Vic




I'm responding here in Vic's build thread so others can share in this.

First, apologies for not being around ExPo much lately. I've been consumed by other things and have just not had the bandwidth to contribute.

As to the bike ramps:

The 230 is a great choice. It's basically the same bike as our 150s with a bigger bore/stroke (not sure which or if both) and bigger wheels.

You can buy the lighting kits from Baja Designs. Highly recommended and it's not just because we know the owners. They really do make the top quality gear for that purpose. I've used their kits on every dirt bike I've ever kitted for the street and have never had a single issue.

Our stock armatures on the 150s are not really up to pulling the lighting kit. I recommend you have your stator rewound to generate more amperage. It's inexpensive and quick. Baja Designs can do this for you.

As to the ramp, We used a door that opened up (top edge hinge) and a folding aluminum bike ramp. We stowed the bike ramp on the rear wall of the garage.

One advantage of a top hinged door was that it formed a wonderful rain and shade shelter for working around the garage and for loading / unloading.

I'm sure a creative fabricator could create a downward opening door that could craftily integrate a folding extension to make a long enough ramp to load/unload the bike.

I don't have it handy to measure, but I think our ramp was about six feet / 1.8 meters. It was the shortest we could use and deal with our load height.

I used first gear and walked the bikes up into the truck. I stepped up onto a motorcross milk crate as I walked the bike in.

The embarassing part is that until we deleted a bunch of the stuff we had in the garage, it took me longer to remove and stow all the stuff we had shoved into the garage than it took to unload or load the bikes. The bikes really went in and out very easily and quickly.

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1447-800.jpg


There are extensive collections of photos of our buildup that show the details on the garage construction, the bike clamps, etc. here: http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/index-buildup-photos.htm

There are garage shots throughout, but I did the finish work on it as one of the last steps in the build. You'll start to see quite a bit of garage stuff in these late albums:
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/buildup_album_23/index.htm
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/buildup_album_24/index.htm

This album has the detail on the system I used to clamp the shovels, pick, ax, bike ramp, etc. in the garage:
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/buildup_album_25/index.htm

This album has the detail on how I sealed the garage door top hinge from rain:
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/buildup_album_26/index.htm


Garage and top hinge door:

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1446-800.jpg


Air regulator, lines and forward garage wall stowage. Note the two battery chargers for the electric start 150s. The 150 motors are made in Brazil, so I was hopeful I could find a kick-start 150 down there and put kick start kits onto our bikes. I never pursued this idea once we were in South America.

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1442-800-arrows.jpg



Aft garage wall stowage. The aluminum rails with adjustable anchor points were extremely useful and highly recommended.

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1438-800-arrows.jpg



Loading Steph's bike. I'm just ready to step up on the motocross milk crate and power the bike on into the garage. The load was very easy and quick once I worked out the order and arrangement of things. Your 230 may be an inch or two taller than our 150s.

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1449-800.jpg

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1450-800.jpg



Loading my bike. Note that we loaded from each side of the truck. The bikes always went in nose first and unloaded tail first.

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1455-800.jpg



My 150 nosed up into the clamp. The bike clamps worked very well. They are vastly superior to a simple stop and using tie downs on the bars. Plus, they prevent the fork springs from being compressed while the bike is stored.

I built the clamps to mount onto adjustable aluminum rails so we could reconfigure the entire garage at will. We never moved them the entire two years.

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1456-800-plate.jpg



Shot from passenger side of the truck, both bikes clamped down and tied off. Note that the rear of the bike is held in place with no downward compression of the spring/shock. BTW, the rear racks on our bikes were made for the 230s but bolted right onto the 150s since they are the same frame, motor, etc.

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1467-800-plate.jpg



Shot from the driver's side of the truck showing where we stowed the folding ramp. Note that I'm in the shade and I'd also be dry if it was raining. The top hinge doors do have some advantages.

http://www.hackneys.com/travel/photos/2008-02-01-SD870%20IS-IMG_1468-800-arrow.jpg

[VicHanson]

Thanks Doug, The information was great and the photos really helped to visualize it. I was looking for a photo of the CRF230 head on to see how much room it takes up, and couldn't find one anyplace. I've found a couple for sale on line, waiting to hear from the sellers. I will be registering the bike in Minnesota, so need to check and see if they allow conversions from dirt bike to dual sport bike.

Vic

[VicHanson]

I'm trying to hook up the auxiliary fuel tank but need to know the size of the drain plug on the original tank. Does anyone know what size it is? John?
Thanks.

Got my battery cables yesterday. Also last week tried out the inverter and found out there was a problem with the load sensor switch, it doesn't shut the inverter off when there is no load. Called Tripp Lite and they said it was defective, would send me a new one, which should be here any day now. I also ordered a Tri-Metric 2025RV meter which monitors battery charge, current usage, etc.

Vic

[whatcharterboat]

'm trying to hook up the auxiliary fuel tank but need to know the size of the drain plug on the original tank. Does anyone know what size it is? John?
Thanks.

Sorry Vic . Just saw this. Will check for you today.

[john101477]

If I get a chance to get out and check I'll let ya know. been stuck indoors the last few days sick. hopefully Mark will have it before I do.

[whatcharterboat]

I'm trying to hook up the auxiliary fuel tank but need to know the size of the drain plug on the original tank. Does anyone know what size it is? John?


Vic. It looks like it's 20mm x 1.25mm on one I've got here. Hopefullly your's will be the same but can't gaurantee this.

Vic, if you can't get a fitting to suit, then just tap a common BSP thread into the drain plug and go from there with standard BSP-T brass fittings.

[VicHanson]

Thanks, John, really appreciate the information, as well as the great idea about tapping the plug, never thought of that!

Yesterday I took the vents off the roof, the covers need replacing and they need to be recaulked, also need to plug up the hole where the air conditioner was, as well as took the old fridge out. Today I got the opening cut out to put the door on the side and rewired for the fridge (after accidently cutting the original wire I moved it too the other side so it didn't have to go across the doorway). Also lots of mental energy expended on how to mount it on the truck, think I got it about figured out.

I also got a roll of self adhesive roofing material (used to be called tar paper). This is polyglass or something like that, going to put it under the plywood of the truck bed to protect it from water, as well as protect the aluminum frame from the pressure treated wood. Probably wasn't needed because it already had 3 coats of polyurethane on it, but the roofers were here putting a new roof on the house so decided to get a roll from them.

Tomorrow hope to get the materials to put in new water lines, and the replacement inverter should be here.

Vic

[VicHanson]

My cousin Jim is an accountant, and with tax season over he was going to his hunting camp for a long weekend, and invited me to go with him. I had already missed the deadline to go to the wedding I wanted to attend so I took the weekend off as well. Now he is taking some time off work and helping me with the camper, which is a real blessing. He has given me lots of good advice and has lots of practical experience to be a great help.

I had kind of reached a point where the camper needed to be on the truck again to fit things, but first we had to put the plywood deck on the truck. We got that done on Monday, and also put the roofing underlayment on the bottom of the plywood. We will also put a layer on the top before we permanently attach the camper. One of the things I wanted to check was to make sure the fiberglass front cap would clear the cab, and to make sure there was room to tilt the cab - all is OK! We had to raise the camper 1 1/2" to give sufficient height in the bike garage, which also gave enough clearance for the cab. We will be putting 2x4s flat under all supporting parts of the camper to do this. I had planned on using 4x4s, but don't need to go that high. One of Jim's ideas was to use a dropped channel for the bike tires, which gave 3 1/2 inches of extra space for the bike. As the wheel goes in first over the side of the frame, it drops down into the channel before the handlebars go in, so it should work OK. If I remember right, this will give an overall camper height of about 11 1/2 feet, to the top of the solar panels.

Yesterday and today I worked on storage compartments, got the passenger side storage done. I enclosed the area from the new side door to the start of the bike garage, and cut out hatches under the dining area bench seat. It will only be accessed from the inside so it was quite easy, no need for outside doors. The storage area is about 6 1/2 feet long, 19 inches wide and 22 inches deep. After mounting the camper on the truck, I will insulate the bottom and side. I also have the front side of the door area framed in and took out the old closet that was in that back corner. It used to open towards the center aisle, I need to change it to open towards the front, where the new entrance will be, because the refrigerator will be just inside of the old door opening. I am also putting in shelves instead of a closet for hanging clothes, as I don't have any clothes that go on a hanger!

This afternoon we patched up the black water tank, the leak from which was one of the reason the whole back end of the camper was rotted away. We used 3M 5200 marine adhesive and a piece of 3/4" treated plywood. That takes 7 days to dry so decided that we better get it done so we can put it back into the bathroom. Still need to patch the bottom of the shower pan.

Over the weekend a friend redid most of the fresh water lines using PEX flexible tubing, still need to get a bypass valve before he can put in the water heater.


40340
I guess this might qualify as an expedition vehicle, a Florida swamp buggy.

40331 40332 40333
The finished flatbed with the bike tire channel; the roofing underlayment from the bottom; and the box it came in.

40334 40335 40336
Getting the hoists and chains ready; backing the truck under; camper on the truck, also working on the storage area.

40338 40337 40339
Hatches cut out; storage area enclosed; all finished!

[kerry]

It's coming along nicely. Looks like you have a very nice workspace there.

[VicHanson]

It's coming along nicely. Looks like you have a very nice workspace there.

Thanks, Kerry. Yes, it is a very nice workspace. Probably not fair to call it a driveway build because on one the side of the driveway are four "carports" with 13' ceilings (I'm using two of them), and right behind that is a fully equipped workshop with practically every tool I know how to use, and many more that I have never seen before. Almost all of them are professional wood shop or construction tools, no 'home' stuff!

Today we got the bike garage roughed in, still haven't finalized the doors, but are considering doors on both sides now, with one folding down to make an outside cooking/eating area, the other side for bike entry/exit.

The passenger side storage is almost finished, just need to put insulation on the outside panel and screw it on. The propane tanks have been moved to the other side (to open up for the side door), the tank compartment is in place and one of the storage areas is finished, except for the door. We got the hinges and door trim, and found out that Dana, (he has the aluminum shop) has some locking latches that someone ordered and then didn't want them, so he said I could have them. I am also planning on getting sheets of aluminum from him for siding, it is a bit expensive but will be easier and look better than trying to reuse the old siding. Yeah, the camper is WAY over budget, as well as way over the time schedule. Oh well, hopefully retirement will last a long time!

Vic

[VicHanson]

Making some slow progress, have been spending lots of time thinking and planning so hopefully will minimize the mistakes. Of course, there are no plans or blueprints to follow, so everything is worked out on the fly! Right now I'm trying to figure out how to do the garage and storage doors, so they seal well and don't leak. I'm also trying to figure out how best to fit the battery box and 40 gallon water tank in the bike garage. Sure would be easier if I had the motorcycle, but haven't found one yet.

I finished insulating on the bottom today, and got most of the rest done, except for areas that need wiring and plumbing work. Hopefully will start putting the outer plywood on tomorrow, and planning the layout of the siding. I have 6 pieces of 4x8 and 2 of 4x10 aluminum sheeting, about $320 worth. I'm a bit nervous about cutting into that!

Still need to get the LP gas hooked up to the stove and water heater and see if they work. I was a bit too anxious to get started on it at the beginning and didn't think of checking them out before I tore things apart. After patching the black water holding tank, I noticed that the attached shower pan had another hole in the side that I hadn't seen before. It is very brittle and in bad shape so I decided to just replace the whole thing, got one ordered today. Unfortunately we broke the outlet pipe off the gray water tank when we were removing the beams after putting it on the truck. I haven't been able to find a suitable one at a decent price, so might try to fix that one. At least it is below the camper so if it leaks I can see it and do something about it, and it won't do any damage to the floor, like the black water tank which is inside.

40690 40691 40692
Insulation, and 2x4 spacers on the bottom to raise the camper up, roofing material on the flatbed.

40693 40694 40695
The bike garage, supports for the clothing shelves.

40696 40697 40698

Shelves, and side views showing the storage areas.

[Bike_Mech]

Hopefully will start putting the outer plywood on tomorrow, and planning the layout of the siding. I have 6 pieces of 4x8 and 2 of 4x10 aluminum sheeting, about $320 worth. I'm a bit nervous about cutting into that!


What gauge sheeting are you using? Is that for the side and the roof?

Thanks
-Chris

[VicHanson]

What gauge sheeting are you using? Is that for the side and the roof?

Thanks
-Chris

Hi Chris,
The aluminum is .040. I was hoping for off white but all he had was white. It will just be for the sides, the top has a rubber roof. It will go on over 5mm Lauan plywood.
Vic

[john101477]

turning out pretty good Vic. i almost have my wife talked into it. :victory:

[VicHanson]

Thanks, John. Make sure you get a camper in good shape it you go that route. I still think it might have been easier and quicker to build one from scratch than what I have been doing. Oh well, I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, although just got a notice today that the shower pan/holding tank I ordered yesterday is on backorder - they didn't say for how long. I got the latches today, along with a drip gutter for the top of the doors, so can start on them next week.

[1speed]

Thanks, John. Make sure you get a camper in good shape if you go that route. I still think it might have been easier and quicker to build one from scratch than what I have been doing...

I would say this is sound advice. I went by Friday to see Vic's progress and I have to agree it probably would have been easier to start from scratch than what he is doing!

On the flip side he is doing a great job and seems to be taking it in stride.

Keep it up Vic, you'll be on the road before you know it! :sombrero:

[VicHanson]

I finally made some visual progress today, I got the Lauan plywood on the right side of the camper! It was a little tricky doing it alone, but managed to do it. First I tried to determine the best usage of the plywood, with the most structual tie in as well as not wasting wood, then made a drawing of the area, and measured it with all the cutouts. Then I tacked the plywood up in place to check the fit and make sure the cutouts were marked right, then took it down and cut them out. Next a final test fitting, tacked it in place again and marked where the wooden framework was for attaching, took it down and applied heavy duty Liquid Nails liberally, tacked it up again and then stapled it using a pneumatic stapler. I had originally planed on screwing it on but this was much easier and faster. It took most of the day because I remeasured everything over and over, did lots of thinking and took a couple of breaks.

I think it was Wednesday I received the 40 gal. water tank and got that mounted. After much thought and discussion, I finally decided that the only way to get both that and the battery box, along with the motorcycle in the garage was to put the water tank on the bottom and the battery box on top. Both will weigh over 300 pounds loaded and the batteries need to be accessable from the top of the box. I also had to build a 4 inch base under the water tank to bring it up to the same level as the original 16 gallon in the camper. They will equalize by gravity feed for both filling and pumping (using the original pump).

Yesterday I built the battery box support, which fits over the water tank, out of 2x4s and 1 1/2" angle iron. It needed to be strong, stable and solidly attached, yet removable in case of problems with the water tank. I also made a vent in the box using a 1 1/2" PVC pipe coupler.

Last week while looking at the maze of wires at the back of the camper, I realized that I didn't need lots of them because they all went to the front of the camper to be plugged into the truck. I will just hook the signals, brake lights and clearance lights directly into the truck wiring at the back of the truck. I was also able to eliminate the 12v wiring for the fridge.

I decided to reuse the camper tail/brake light fixtures even though they weren't really needed (the truck lights are visible below the camper). They were designed to mount into a hole cut into the shell but I didn't want to do that in the new aluminum skin, so I made surface mounting frames out of 2x4s. The only holes needed will be for 2 screws and 1 hole for the wires. They are all painted and ready to install now.

Hopefully tomorrow I can cut and lay the linoleum and put the closet in place. I received an email saying that the back ordered holding tank shipped on Wednesday, so hopefully will have that by Monday and we can install that and finish the plumbing.


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Tail lights and mounting frames, since painted white

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Reinforcing straps at the front of the bike garage, and the 40 gallon water tank

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Supports and battery box for 6 Trojan T-105 6v deep cells, vent hole

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First piece of plywood, plywood on one side finished!

[alaskaboy]

Lookin' good. How do you find the time?

[kerry]

Lookin' good. How do you find the time?

From what I gathered from Vic's website, his boss is non-union but generous with time off.:sombrero:

[VicHanson]

From what I gathered from Vic's website, his boss is non-union but generous with time off.:sombrero:

:) The pay isn't very good the the hours are great! 14 days until I turn 62, and can get my lifetime National Parks pass. Social Security doesn't start until July sometime. I did some shopping yesterday after church, then took the rest of the day off and went hiking - there should be some fun in retirement!

I got the linoleum measured, cut and laid today, it came out almost perfect, I was really pleased. I ended up making a pattern out of newspaper on the floor of the camper, and then used that to cut out the linoleum. UPS brought the holding tank/shower pan so can install that soon. I also put in the clothing shelves, and closed up the old rear door area. It's starting to look good.

I got a surprise call today from a pastor here in Florida that I worked with some in Peru. They have asked me to consider taking a group to Peru for a week! It isn't for sure yet but if it happens, it will be in a couple of weeks.

I also have a new deadline date that I need to have the camper done for. I was contacted by a family from Spain that were looking for a guide for about 10 days of hiking. We have decided on the Tahoe Rim Trail, I need to pick them up in San Francisco on August 3rd! After the hiking we will make a trip down to Yosemite. A little extra income will be nice, especially to help pay for the high cost of fuel.

[VicHanson]

Seems like I haven't accomplished much lately, have been waiting for a few things, like plumbing, that are holding up everything else. I have been finishing up a few odds and ends, like finally got the fiberglass bed cap all cleaned up and ready to paint, checked out the oven, that works fine but the gas fitting has a small leak so need to redo that. The plumbing is getting there, still need to hook up the new tank to the old one so that they will fill and pump at the same time. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures of the plumbing before starting and now I don't remember how the 'city water' connection was hooked up to the system. Can't figure out what keeps the tank from overflowing when it is hooked up to a water hose in a camp ground.

My advice to anyone doing a similar rebuild is to take extensive notes and photos before you start on anything. I thought I had done enough but I didn't. I did end up rewiring most of the camper because of removing the refrigerator and air conditioner, as well as the old DC input was all up front. Mine will be coming from the back of the truck, so was able to eliminate a lot of wires. I'm also hooking up the turn signal/brake lights directly to the truck ones so that wiring is a lot simpler.

Today I finally got new vent covers ordered from PPL in Texas, as well as a few other things. Their prices are fairly decent and I am still not able to drive my truck. RVSurplus in Indiana was cheaper on the parts, but their shipping costs were outrageous! $60 for the parts and $85 for shipping. I ordered more stuff from PPL and the shipping was $19.00! Northtrail RV here in Fort Myers (and I think Fort Lauderdale) has a huge catalog with lots of stuff in it too. I will probably end up getting some things from them.

I ended up fixing the old gray water tank with 3M 5200 adhesive, hopefully that will work OK. If it does leak later, it can be reached from below the camper, behind the truck frame, unlike the black tank which is inside the bathroom, under the toilet.

Most of the Lauan plywood is on, except where access is needed for plumbing work, will probably start putting the aluminum siding on the door side in the next day to two. The interior is mostly done, except for the bathroom.

Still having registration problems. I had my sister in Minnesota try to register it for me as an RV but they said I needed to fill out an affidavit of reconstruction, with details of work done, receipts for all 'major' parts, bills of sale, notarized, photos, etc. I got that sent to my sister yesterday, hopefully it will be sufficient.

And I leave for Peru in a week!

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New and old holding tank/shower pan. New flooring
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New door where the old fridge was. New clothes shelves, and new fridge where old door was.
41580 Getting the plywood on the driver's side

[whatcharterboat]

Still haven't found any ABS cement to repair the holding tank.



I ended up fixing the old gray water tank with 3M 5200 adhesive, hopefully that will work OK. If it does leak later, it can be reached from below the camper, behind the truck frame, unlike the black tank which is inside the bathroom, under the toilet.

Hi Vic, man you sound like Job. I just saw this old post about the ABS cement and then the 3M bit......

I'm pretty sure you could make your own ABS cement by collecting ABS powder (just hold a small piece of ABS on an angle grider and remember to stop before you reach your fingers) and then stir it into some Methylethylketone (M.E.K.) until it's all dissolved and you end up with the correct consistency. Not MEKP either, just MEK.

I seem to remember fixing old ABS sailboards that way in another life......


BTW, :birthday.sml:

Kind regards
John.

[VicHanson]

I got great news from my sister in Minnesota today, she was finally able to register my camper there as an RV. Yeah! I guess they liked all the pictures I sent them. I do have to take it in for a visual inspection when I get to Minnesota. Now as soon as I get the new title I can contact Progressive Insurance and try to get my insurance changed from a commerical vehicle to an RV as well.

Thanks for the birthday wishes, John. Just turned 62 so now I'm eligible for Social Security and the $10 lifetime National Parks pass!!

[VicHanson]

(also posted on power systems: 12v forum, ect.)

I was in an auto parts store tonight (didn't notice the name, sorry) and saw a backup camera on sale for $100, normally $130. It has a 3.5" screen and a wireless transmitter. The display model was sharp and clear with good color, but it was in the store which was well lit. Has anyone used one with a small screen like this and if so, is it big enough to be practical? I just glanced at it on the way out of the store so didn't notice the brand name or any details. Not sure if if could be plugged into a larger display, espec. a laptop, which I will be using with a Garmin GPS that plugs into the USB port.

Any advice or comments would be appreciated as I am almost done with my camper build and just realized that because I will be traveling alone I should probably have a backup camera.

Thanks,
Vic

[VicHanson]

I was looking at a 230L in Minnesota on Craigslist but the listing is gone now, must have sold. I just found another one today at Lakeland, about 100 miles from here. I'm trying to work out transportation to go look at it in the next day or two, looks like a nice bike at a fair price. It sure would look nice in my bike garage!

Oh, I got the licence plates for my RV today! Yeah!!

[hinoranger]

I got great news from my sister in Minnesota today, she was finally able to register my camper there as an RV. Yeah! I guess they liked all the pictures I sent them. I do have to take it in for a visual inspection when I get to Minnesota. Now as soon as I get the new title I can contact Progressive Insurance and try to get my insurance changed from a commerical vehicle to an RV as well.


congratulations. I paid for commercial registration and insurance for far too long on my rig, got pretty reasonable RV insurance through Progressive. RV reg. & insurance is less than 25% of what I'd been paying.

[DontPanic42]

(also posted on power systems: 12v forum, ect.)

I was in an auto parts store tonight (didn't notice the name, sorry) and saw a backup camera on sale for $100, normally $130. It has a 3.5" screen and a wireless transmitter. The display model was sharp and clear with good color, but it was in the store which was well lit. Has anyone used one with a small screen like this and if so, is it big enough to be practical? I just glanced at it on the way out of the store so didn't notice the brand name or any details. Not sure if if could be plugged into a larger display, espec. a laptop, which I will be using with a Garmin GPS that plugs into the USB port.

Any advice or comments would be appreciated as I am almost done with my camper build and just realized that because I will be traveling alone I should probably have a backup camera.

Thanks,


Vic

I have been using a backup camera on my FG for 5 years or so. Biggest problem is locating the monitor so that the picture isn't washed out from too much light. A little cardboard and tape can solve that problem. Handy gadget.

[VicHanson]

Thanks Bruce, that encouraged me to get one.

I just ordered a backup camera from Advance Auto Parts, they were $129.98, now on sale for 99.98. If you order on their website you get an additional discount of $20 for orders OVER $100, so I had to order a couple of bulbs that I need for the interior of my camper anyway. You can pick up in the store or orders over $75 get free shipping. I don't have a drivable vehicle now so took the free shipping. Here is the camera if anyone is interested.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_3-5-Inch-Wireless-Backup-Camera-System-Peak_6050273-P_N3597A_A%7CGRP2021____

Brand is Peak, which I've never heard of, it got 4 out of 5 stars on 5 reviews.

Actually tomorrow I hope to have something to drive! Going to look at the motorcycle, a Honda CRF230L. It has 700 miles, if all looks OK will buy it and bring it home.

Today I got the rubber roof of the camper cleaned, what a job! My wrists are sore from scrubbing. I need to get a bunch of screws and then can put the vents back on the roof and put the rubber roof sealer on it. I've got the vents all cleaned up ready, had to put a new lid on the emergency vent, the old one was falling apart.

[VicHanson]

I got the bike! It's my first dual sport, and much smaller than my last bike, so I was a little concerned that it might feel a bit like a toy. But no problem, I love it! It has plenty of pep, although I haven't had it above 50 mph yet. It handles great on the pavement, will have to find some dirt to go play in soon. I just ordered an aluminum ramp, so as soon as that gets here, I can put it in the bike garage and see how it fits. I had wanted to build a fold down door/ramp for the garage, but following wise advice, decided to go with a regular door and a ramp, much easier. I didn't get a folding one as they only weigh 6 lb and I have plenty of room to store it unfolded (6 1/2 feet long), and folding ones are more expensive.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35804&d=1261327779
Previous bike - 6 cyl, Honda CBX, 1100cc

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New bike - Honda CRF230L, 1 cyl, 230cc

42726 42727
Cleaning the roof - Done!

42725
RV License plates!

[VicHanson]

A very unexpected report to post tonight. Yesterday, I think it was when I came outside after eating lunch, my cousin Jim asked me to move my motorcycle. I had it parked in one of the stalls of the carport, near his BBQ grill, so I thought maybe he wanted to use the grill. Then he told me to take it to the other side of the camper. There I saw that he had one of his ATV ramps up on the garage opening, and had cleared out some of the stuff in there. "Put it in the garage", he said. I had forgotten that he had that ramp!

I put a small step stool along side of it and tried to walk it up the ramp into the garage. I got the front wheel to the top and killed the engine, so had to roll it back down. Same thing on the second try. The third try worked OK! The bike fits in perfectly. I was a little worried that the foot peg would be too close to the water tank, even though I had measured it previously. You may remember that I built in a trough for the bike to set down in, to give more clearance, because I wasn't sure if I would get the Honda or a taller Yamaha. I began to regret that when it was time to take the bike out, now I have to lift it out of that 4" deep trough. We cut a chock for the front wheel to keep it from going too far forward, and made a little ramp to put behind the rear wheel. Because the garage is only 4' high, I can't stand straight up to make it easier to lift up the back of the bike to back it out of the garage. With the ramp, I was able to do it by putting one foot up on the battery box and push on that, but it is a little awkward. I may fill in some under the back tire so it doesn't drop in as far, but time to worry about that later.

Then in the late afternoon, Jim asked me to come in the camper, he wanted to talk to me. He said he and Adam (his stepson, who has helped with the plumbing and other things), were concerned about sealing the walls around the shower pan, and asked if it was OK for them to put something like shower stall material on all the bathroom walls, coming down to inside the lip on the shower pan. He said if it was OK with me, they would go get the material right then and do it while I was at church on Sunday morning! I couldn't say no, so they went off to get the material, and came back with FRP panels and all the trim. As it turned out, Adam couldn't help this morning, so they weren't able to start until this afternoon.
And then Jim decided to rebuild the vanity and medicine cabinet with a plastic 'lumber' material made of PVC, and that is taking longer than he expected, so it still isn't done.

I got the front escape hatch reinstalled, the hole filled in where the bathroom vent was, and a few other small details. I'm putting the former bath vent in the center of the camper where the old AC unit was because that is the only way I can put three 205 Watt solar panels on top, and at that it is a very tight squeeze! Jim had suggested going to Miami last week to get them, but we went to buy the bike instead, so maybe this week, not sure yet.

While starting to install the old gray water tank yesterday, we discovered a huge crack in it that hadn't been there before. It seems to be so brittle that it is worthless, so will have to replace it. Right now we are considering making one out of 4" PVC pipes and putting it the length of the camper, underneath between the frame rails of the truck, which otherwise would be wasted space. I did find one to buy that might work in the normal space (sideways under the back end of the camper. The price will be about the same either way, but the homemade one would have about twice the capacity. Decisions, decisions!

42825 42826

Here is the bike in the garage, sure looks nice in there!

[kerry]

Don't know what kind of prices you are looking at for a new gray water tank, but using fiberglass cloth and epoxy on the outside of the tank would add tons of strength, and can be done pretty quickly.

[VicHanson]

Thanks for the ideas, Kerry and Peter. Rather than try to rebuild the old tank, which is quite small, I would rather make a new one if possible, however I have no experience with fiberglass. Please tell me if this would work - I was thinking about making a plywood box, like I did for the battery box, I can make it the right size and shape and it will hold about 40 gallons. If I fiberglass the inside will that work? How many layers? The lid would be separate, and clamp down on a rubber seal on the top of the box. If this can work, it would solve a number of concerns - ease of hookup to the gray water lines and the black water drain, large capacity without taking up needed space due to optimal size and shape, allowing room to easily install a trailer hitch later, and hopefully cheaper cost.

I can get help with the fiberglass work.

A new tank is about $150 to $200 and I haven't really found the right size and shape.

Thanks,
Vic

[VicHanson]

Thanks Peter. I need to get the camper drivable so I am thinking of holding off on the gray water tank for now. I might just put a valve on the pipe and use a bucket until I have time to do it right.

[kerry]

Try looking on US Plastics website for a tank that will fit.

For instance:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25304&catid=819

One of their off the shelf polyethylene tanks is probably cheaper than the supplies necessary to glass up a plywood tank.

[VicHanson]

Thanks Kerry, I had looked at their site, didn't really see anything suitable there, but did find one at the boatdepot that might work, 25 gal for $105 and I think $25 shipping.

OK, the big news is that we finally got started putting the aluminum siding on! It's a big job. It really has started looking like a camper now. Lots of interruptions this weekend but got one side done yesterday and the back today. Also got the windows in and the door frame in on the same side.

Does anyone have experience using flat sheets of aluminum (4x8) for siding? I'm wondering if it needs to be screwed in the middle of the sheets or just on the edges and seams? I hate to put unnecessary screws in those big panels if not needed, more opportunity for leaks. The sheets are bonded on with Liquid Nails Professional, applied over the whole area with a serrated trowel. The metal is solid against the plywood under it now, but not sure if it will stay that way when it gets to bouncing on the roads (or off road).

We are using 10 x 3/4" aluminum pan head, square drive screws for the aluminum (couldn't find 1") and 10 x 1" stainless steel pan head, Philips head around the windows, door, vents, trim, etc. The aluminum screws have painted white heads. I like the square drive but couldn't find square drive in stainless. They are $17 per 100, the aluminum only about $7 per 100. I've pretty much thrown the budget out the window, just need to get this finished so not shopping for price anymore, it's only retirement money!

Also got my aluminum bike ramp and the backup camera a few days ago. The ramp works good, it is only 6' long instead of 8' like the other one I used but it doesn't seem to be a problem. The raised edges on the side of the ramp are nice. I did drill holes and screwed it to the truck so it didn't move around our slip off. There is one problem though, it is very shiny, I had to use sun glasses in the bright sunlight. I think I will paint it black. Can't install the backup camera until we finish with the siding, so haven't tried that yet.

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Getting ready to cut the aluminum. First pieces on! We had to clamp the piece in place, then mark the window cutouts.

43060 43064 43061 43062
Checking the fit. Troweling on the adhesive. Have a window in! The back is finished (some pieces still have the protective plastic on them)

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Door frame installed. 6' aluminum bike ramp.

[gait]

Just a thought. I'd suggest testing the glue, it may well be that the screws are unnecessary to hold the Al on. A large area of adhesive should be very strong in shear. If the adhesive lets go its probably not the right stuff.

[VicHanson]

The adhesive holds really well right now. I finally thought of calling the Liquid Nails company and asked them about it. Not good news. The adhesive is made for FRP, normally in a bathroom, which doesn't move or shake much! The woman I talked to said it is not recommended for aluminum and especially on a vehicle where it will be subjected to shaking and stress movement. It drys hard and she said it will probably crack with too much movement. She said they really don't make anything specifically for this purpose, but their Polyurethane Construction adhesive for marble and other hard surfaces would probably work, as is stays flexible. The problem is that it only comes in 10 oz tubes, rather than multi-gallon pails.

Well Jim came home from work while I was writing this and we decided to continue using the Liquid Nails for FRP, just using more screws. Lots of measuring and cutting small pieces this afternoon, for the pieces around the storage doors, LP tanks and water heater. We got those put on and cut the large piece that goes on top, even got the window opening and the stove vent opening in the right place! Will put it on tomorrow.

[VicHanson]

We got the last of the main pieces of aluminum on today! Still need to put the corner and trim pieces on, they should be ready to pick up tomorrow. Also need to skin and trim the doors for the garage and storage. Not sure exactly how that is all going to work, Dana had the corner and trim pieces bent but I haven't seen them yet. We are also using U-channel pieces to trim the edges of the doors, but it already fits tight without the aluminum on the front. The plan is to dado them around the edges on the back just enough so that the trim will fit over the wood and the aluminum.

Also got the taillights on, still need to mount a few clearance lights and put the fiberglass deflector cap on the front.

There is a little plumbing and wiring to do left to do, Jim is finishing up the bathroom sink and shelves, and I need to reseal the rubber roof. Then pack up everything and go to Miami to pick up the solar panels, hopefully in a week. I was going to install them while here in Florida but due to the time factor I think I will take them to Minnesota and (hopefully) do it there.

The shopping box for the bike is functionally finished, trying to figure out how to decorate it a little so I don't look so much like an ice cream salesman! The box worked great for shopping today. Stopped at the Honda dealer today to see if they had any Honda decals but nothing. I did get a nice helmet. It was priced at $80. There were some fancier ones on sale for $100 so I asked if they could give me a sale price on the one I wanted and she gave me a 10% discount, which was nice.


43192 43193 43194 43195

[VicHanson]

I'm not going to take time for photos tonight but just a quick update on the progress. We got the second garage door on tonight (the big one), did the smaller one yesterday. Still need to finish the locks and figure out how to mount the gas struts to hold it open. The large one will open up, all the others open down. I put chains on them today so they can be used as tables. Also got the fiberglass cap/wind deflector screwed in place and the seams sealed, and the last two window installed. One more storage door and one piece of corner trim left to do. I am hoping to be done by Wednesday night, it's going to be close!

[john101477]

Looks really good Vic

[VicHanson]

Thanks John, here's a few current pics. Got the doors all done, rain gutters around the roof, the bathroom still isn't finished but that's about it. Oh, need to put a sealer on the rubber roof. I started loading up the garage today, put the mtn. bike on the front wall with small pulleys, the bike cargo box has to come off to put the bike in, that is also my step to use to load the bike. Just using ratchet tie down straps to secure the bikes for now, would be nice to have a fancy front wheel lock like Doug made but that will have to come later (if ever). Used two 20", 60 lb gas struts for the large garage door, a little tricky to get the right size and mounting location but am happy with the results. The other doors all open down so have chains to hold them at 90 deg. for tables, or they can also open 180 deg.

Will be traveling for most of the next week, so probably won't get the latest build updates posted for awhile. Will report later from Minnesota!

Oh, forgot to mention that the bike got 93 mpg running around town - Nice!

43533 43534 43535

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[Ford Prefect]

WOW

That is certainly not what I was expecting!

It really looks VERY nice! (sorry for under-estimating your plans!)

Congrats on the progress so far! Super build.

Will there be any access to the garage from inside the camper?

[VicHanson]

Got the solar panels yesterday, then drove for hours in a downpour to Coral Springs, FL. Had a bit of a leak in the cabover bed area, I hope it is just around the escape vent cover. Will have to check that out. Got my city driving practice yesterday in Miami, going to take a little getting used to! Need to get the backup camera installed. The truck rides much better with the camper weight on it, although I did hit a few bumps in the road that bounced things pretty good! I can see that I'm going to have to put some mesh or something over the clothes shelves, lots of stuff on the floor when I arrived. It handles good too, I've very happy with it.

FP - Thanks, no offense taken, I had hoped it would look this good, but wasn't sure. Putting on new siding rather than trying to reuse the old was a big key. I had great help and advice from Jim and Dana too, couldn't have done it on my own. No access from the camper to the garage, or from the garage to the cab. The door on the driver's side is almost 4 feet square, the bikes will be loaded and unloaded from that side. The door on the passenger side is smaller, just for convenience if needed.

43670 43671

[JerryYukon]

Finally got a map out and can see that Virginia isn't on the way to Minnesota. Too bad. We'll cross paths one day.

[VicHanson]

Welcome to Expo, Jerry!

I stopped at Walmart in Coral Springs, FL on Saturday evening, got out of the camper and as I was walking around the back to go into the store, I saw a guy walking towards the camper from the other side. He was admiring it and complimented me on how it looked! Felt really good. My first 'stranger in the parking lot' fan!!

I'm in Murfreesboro, TN tonight and all is well, nothing has fallen apart! Have been getting about 14 to 15 mpg, but the price of diesel is outrageous! I paid $3.11 yesterday, finally got some for $2.89 today, but it has been 40 to 50 cents more than regular at most stations! What's going on with that?!?! I'm beginning to think getting a diesel wasn't such a good idea.

[West Coast Mags]

Just found this thread and read the build. Great Work! I've thought of doing a similar project, reading about your build was inspiring. Thanks for taking the time to share the build up.

[VicHanson]

Metapoint - Thanks and you're welcome.

I got two new tires yesterday for the front end, BF Goodrich Commercial T/A Traction, size 235/85/16E. I was going to get them from Sam's Club, but they said they couldn't mount them on a medium duty truck. So I got them at Discount Tire, also called America's Tire at some locations. They were $159 each, but came to $373.50 total with balancing and tax. I had also just gotten a spare wheel from a truck junk yard in Wisconsin so had them mount the best old tire on that (for $6). Now I need to figure out a mounting for the spare. There is plenty of room on the under the camper on the right side so shouldn't be a big problem.

The tires really look nice and it seems the the steering and handling is better (which might just be my wishful imagination after spending all that money!). I wish I had all 6 new tires but the rear ones are still pretty good so couldn't justify spending another $747.00 now!

Then I went to Northern Tool and got a 8 ton barrel jack, jack stands, a 20" long, 3/4" breaker bar, a 4" extension and a 41 mm socket. I guess I should have gotten the 6 ton jack even though the 8 ton was on sale for a dollar cheaper because it is too tall. I'll have to run the front wheels up on a couple of board to change them.

Of course even though I asked the tire mounter to make sure he didn't over torque the nuts (and he did use a torque wrench), I still can't budge them standing on the breaker bar. Will need to get a long cheater bar and hope it doesn't break the breaker bar.

Unfortunately when I got home, I went to open the camper door and the key wouldn't unlock it. I could unlock the dead bolt but not the latch, have no idea why. After trying for quite awhile I finally broke off the key. I have a spare key but can't find it. In my hurry to pack and leave Florida I must have put it in the camper. I ended up getting a new latch/lock today (and I had just bought that one when I rebuilt the camper) so will try to remove the bad one and replace that tomorrow. Then I need to get started on installing the solar panels.

I also have a slight leak in the roof where the fiberglass cap joins the rubber roof. It is just in front of the emergency escape hatch and there is a pronounced dip in the roof there because there is only about 2" of wood in front of the hatch. I plan on putting a 1"x1" angle iron from side to side on the inside to push it up flat, but so far haven't been able to find any longer than 6', and I need 7 1/2'. I have looked at Lowes, Home Depot, Menards and Ace, nobody has 8 footers. Because of the dip there is a puddle there after a rain and it eventually soaks through the seam, even though I thought I had sealed it well with butyl tape.

[alaskaboy]

Vic,

Bummer on the roof, sag or no sag.

If you have air service brakes, couldn't you tap into that and carry an impact driver which would be easier to stow, and might possibly be lighter than a 3-4 ft cheater bar?

[kerry]

Vic,

Bummer on the roof, sag or no sag.

If you have air service brakes, couldn't you tap into that and carry an impact driver which would be easier to stow, and might possibly be lighter than a 3-4 ft cheater bar?

It will take the mother of all impact wrenches:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31501&highlight=lug+nuts+1800

[hinoranger]

If you have air service brakes, couldn't you tap into that and carry an impact driver which would be easier to stow, and might possibly be lighter than a 3-4 ft cheater bar?

no air compressor on the NPR, pretty sure. very sure, actually.

[VicHanson]

Peter, thanks for the tip on Metalsupermarkets! I will be going right by the Burnsville store when I leave here so will check them out. Yep, with a flat the jack won't go under the axle at all.

Alaskaboy, no air brakes, no air compressor big enough for an impact wrench.

Kerry, did you get that gas powered impact wrench? If not, have you found a solution yet?

I went out this morning to remove the bad door latch from the camper and to put in the new one. Even though the key was broken off, it was just long enough that I could get a hold of it with a vise grip, which was good because the dead bold was locked. I unlocked that and just for fun tried to open the regular latch again. It opened normally! I couldn't believe it but was sure glad I tried it once more before destroying the lock! The only thing I can guess it that the other day when it wouldn't open I sprayed it with WD40. It didn't help any then but maybe it did after sitting for a day and a half! I think the new latch is heavier, it is the same brand but a different number series so maybe it is a better latch, so I might go ahead and replace it anyway.

I got one of the solar panels out today and looked at that to figure out how to mount them. I also tried to figure out where to mount the spare tire. I don't have anything under the bed on the passenger's side so thought about mounting it there. It seems like it should be easy to design a hinged platform with the hinge attached to the frame. With it lowered, the tire could be easily rolled and laid onto the platform and then the whole the whole thing raised up and secured with a chain or a latch of some kind. I was thinking I could make something out of angle iron and just bolt it together but my brother-in-law thought it should be welded together. Anyone have any thoughts about this? The only problem I see is that the tire sticks out beyond the edge of the camper by about 1 ½ or 2 inches. I don't think this is a real problem because the mirrors stick out a number of inches beyond that.

Another option would be to have some kind of a mount that would fit between the cab and the camper, there is just enough room there. I think I saw this on Expo sometime last year, but don't remember for sure. This would be more complicated and probably beyond my ability, and I am sure would require some welding (which I can't do). I might put an extra tire there (not mounted on a wheel). I did get Good Sam Emergency Road Service, it is $79 for the first year on a current special, so decided that was worth it. They will change tires for RVs, as well as mount the tire if needed.

The easiest solution for the spare would be to put it in the bike garage but I don't really want to give up that much space in there, as well as have to remove it every time I put the bike in or take it out. I will probably end up doing that for now as I am going to run out of time before I need to leave for California.

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[kerry]

Yes, I got the gas powered impact. I don't carry it with me. I carry a 48" breaker bar and a piece of pipe as a cheater. I have my spare between the cab and the utility body. I welded up a bracket. There's a picture here somewhere.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20677&highlight=spare+tire

[VicHanson]

What's with the big pictures, did Expo change the default? Previously I had tried to post large pics but could only get the small ones when I upload directly to a post. If I copy the URL from another post to a new one, then they come out big. This time I did it the same as always and they came out big, have no idea why.

I forgot to mention that I got some cheap LED lights at Northern Tool the other day as well, a round one about the size of a hockey puck with 24 LEDs and uses 3 AAA batteries for $5, the other is rectangular, about 2x9 inches and has 72 LEDs for $10, which uses 4 AA. Neither are as bright as I had hoped, but especially the big ones (I got two of them). They don't even seem to be twice as bright as the smaller one. One thing that is nice about them is they each have a hook on them and the round one has 1 magnet and the large ones have 3 magnets on the back of them. I got the big ones for my bike garage, so will see if the give enough light for that. If not, I will probably try a 20 or 30W, 120V compact florescent and run it off the inverter.

I just did some more tests in a stairway and now I can see that the large one is much brighter, which the following pictures illustrate quite well.

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The second pic is the small light at 1/4 sec, the third pic is the large one at 1/4 sec.

[VicHanson]

On Monday I went to Ace Hardware and to Menards (a large home improvement store in the Midwest) and tried to get as much stuff as I could think of for the solar panel installation. Of course this was hard to do as I really didn't know what I needed, was just guessing and learning as I went, kind of like this whole camper build! Thankfully Menards has one of the largest selections of stainless steel hardware (nut, bolts, etc.) of anyplace I have been except for Ace, and their bulk packs are a lot cheaper than Ace. I also got a 4' piece of pipe and that was enough that I can loosen the nuts on the front wheels, those are the wheels with the new tires. I haven't tried the back wheels yet.

Yesterday I laid out one of the solar panels on the driveway and tried to work out the mounting for them. I want to be able to tilt the panels up as well, as this helps a lot to get maximum power out of them with the low angle of the sun in the winter time. To further complicate the issue is the lack of space on the roof for the large panels. I bought them at Sun Electronics in Miami (they also have stores in Arizona). Their higher watt panels are all the same size so I got the 210 watt ones, which were $385 each if I remember right. I just checked their website and the price has gone up a little, they are $403 now, still way cheaper than others. They are the same as the Evergreen panels, except that they are not U.L rated. The Evergreens are $480. I had also ordered a 45 amp Morningstar TriStar charge controller with the solar panels, but when I got there they didn't have one so they gave me the 60 amp one for the same price. It normally costs $30 more! That might be needed if I added another panel, but I don't have anymore room so probably won't be able to use the extra capacity.

Anyway the panels are 37 1/2" wide by 65" long. I have about a inch to spare total for each panel, between the roof vent and the edge of the camper! The third panel will go sideways at the back of the roof so the available space will almost all be used. The only problem with this is that the 2 front panels can tilt up on their sides, the 3rd one will have to tilt up on its end, so I won't be able to tilt it up as far with out having it stick way up in the air. The mount will still have to be stronger and use more of the expensive aluminum angle.

As you can see, the right panel tilts fine, and clears the roof vent but due to a design error in the mount the left one doesn't tilt at all (except the opposite way!) I ran out of 1" angle so had to use 3/4" and then had to set the feet in almost an inch due to a lip on the edge of the roof, and the combination doesn't leave room for it to hinge. I didn't realize this until I had them bolted down. The outside of the right panel is the same but that one tilts in to the middle so it isn't a problem. I think I have a solution figured out, just need some scraps of aluminum - unfortunately my source of aluminum scraps is in Florida!

I guess this is a good time to give public thanks to my cousin Jim, where I stayed for four months, Dana, who did all the aluminum work, and Adam who did the plumbing and other things. Without their help this project would never have turned out this nice, would have taken much longer, been a lot harder and cost a lot more! And thanks also to Janet for the good cooking and making the curtains.

Tomorrow I hope to get the material for the mounting of the third panel and get that installed. Getting the panels hooked up to the charge controller and the batteries will have to wait, maybe I can do it on the trip west.


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[Jnich77]

1. It amazes me the stuff you can find cheap at Harbor Freight and Northern Tools

2. I love your solar set up.

[VicHanson]

Just a quick note before leaving Lake City, Minnesota, on the banks of Lake Pepin (a very wide spot in the Mississippi River) - the birthplace of water skiing they say.

I got the 3rd solar panel installed today after going to Menards for more aluminum angle. Also had to redo the second panel I installed yesterday because it wouldn't tilt. It still only goes up about 2 feet so might have to modify it a bit more. Will have to see if it works OK like this, I think if I raise it any higher it will cast a shadow on the panel behind it during low sun angles.

I should have done the last panel first, it was much easier because the feet are not under the panel like half of the feet on the first two. Of course I learned a lot doing the first two so the third was easier due to that as well. The other good news is now that the panels are installed, my overhead bed is freed up to sleep in, so I can put up my table now as!

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Checking the fit

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Close up of the mounting

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All mounted!

[JerryYukon]

Nice work Vic. Safe travels............

[VicHanson]

Been too busy hiking and traveling to spend much time here but will give a quick update. I guided a family from Spain on the Tahoe Rim Trail for 11 days in August, we all had a great time on a beautiful trail. Then we spent 5 days in Yosemite and a couple in Sequoia N.Parks. After that I stopped at a friend's place and finally got my solar panels hooked up. I have been using them now for almost 2 weeks and am very happy with the results. The 120v fridge works well, except the freezer isn't quite cold enough to keep the ice cream hard. I could turn it colder but this way the ice cream is easier to dish up!

After that I spent over a week in the Tahoe area, hiking a few sections of the TRT that I could easily drive to, and camping near the trail when possible, a few days at the beach, and then a day of mtn. biking.

I camped last night in the Tahoe Nat. Forest off hwy 20, between Soda Springs and Nevada City in California. Had a great day biking on the Pioneer Trail, which I discovered by accident when I was looking for a place to camp. Afterward I took my first shower using a Coleman 5 gal. solar shower, only $7 or $8 at Walmart. I had it on the roof with 2 gal. of water for less than 2 hours and it was so hot that I had to add 1 gal. or cool water to use it, which made it just right. As it was my first shower in over a week, I used about 2 1/2 gallons! I DID 'wash' (no soap) in Lake Tahoe a few times last weekend.

Just last night I got the camper 12v system hooked up, now I can hook up my LED lights to that rather than using the AA batteries in them. I also have some that I recharge on 115v, so am using a small 75w inverter plugged into one of the 12v receptacles I installed. Seemed silly to use the 2000w inverter to charge them, laptop and cell phone. The big inverter has a load sensor on it, it only runs when there is a load turned on. It works great with the fridge, toaster and rice cooker, but not with the microwave. The microwave has electronic controls and it needs power to set the cooking time, but doesn't draw enough to turn the inverter on, so I need to turn on something else first, then turn on the micro, which works OK.

This afternoon I stopped in Grass Valley to pick up a remote temperature sensor for the charge controller, it sends the battery box temp. to the controller to adjust the charge as needed for cold or hot weather. Will try to get that hooked up tomorrow.

I wasn't sure how much electricity the fridge would use but am pleased with the results. It uses about 25 amps to start but quickly goes down to about 15, then slowly drops down to 12 amps and then shuts off, after running about 10 minutes. I was waiting to see how much reserve power I have, and it is plenty, so I am going to add more 115v cooking appliances and use them rather than LP. I plan on getting a small electric fry pan, a 1 burner hot plate, and maybe a waffle iron. I have used the micro to reheat rice, and probably with use it to cook frozen veggies until I get the hot plate.

I have never been below 92% of a full charge in the morning, and usually it is 94%. With full sun the panels have put out up to 30 amps of power, and that is leaving them flat, I haven't tilted them since I hooked them up. And they are fully recharged in a couple of hours once the full sun hits them. I have tried to use the toaster, rice cooker and micro during the day, and the gas stove in the evening, but it looks like that really isn't necessary. So far haven't used the Mr. Buddy heater, the coldest has been about 50 degrees inside when I wake up in the morning. Will be time to head south soon!

Well I need to go find a camping spot for the night. BTW, both Burger King and Mac Donalds have free WiFi at most stores. I am using Walmart's $30 a month plan, 1000 min. of phone and 5 mb of internet, which has worked OK for checking my email and updating Facebook, but not for Expo.

I do have some hillbilly racing stripes on my camper now, as well as knocked off 1 red lens from a side marker light someplace in the trees around Tahoe. I'm glad the camper isn't any wider (7'8") or longer (21'). I have been able to go most places I wanted to, have passed on some forest service roads that looked too steep or rough. Have been getting lots of admiring comments and looks. Had one older mtn. biker ask if I would adopt him! So far I am very pleased with the way the camper turned out and is working, just need to get a few of the remaining comfort items finished like the plumbing and get some water in the fresh water tanks.

I have averaged just over 15 mpg most of the time, except for a few fills with more mountain climbs then downhills, so am happy with that.

[UHAULER]

Hey, you're right up the road from my 'hood. There are some sweet motorcycle trails near the pioneer trail. I hope you enjoy the area.

[Overland Hadley]

BTW, both Burger King and Mac Donalds have free WiFi at most stores.

Good to know, thanks.

[VicHanson]

A few more comments about how the camper is working out in daily life. On really hot days of 90 plus degrees, it gets up to 90 in the camper as well, especially if the larger window is facing the sun and I am not in the camper so it is all closed up. I found that the fridge wasn't getting enough air flow around it (there aren't any coils on the back, they are inside on both sides of the fridge). This caused the fridge to keep running, I suppose because it wasn't cooling properly. I have a 12v fan, about 11" in diameter, that I got at Walmart for $13. It takes 8 "D" batteries or an AC adapter (not included) so I hadn't used it yet. I just hooked it up to the camper 12v system and put it on top of the fridge, blowing down the back and around both sides. This really helps the heat dissipation and now the fridge shuts of normally or a little slower when it is hot. Because the problem is only when the sun is shining, the extra draw of the fan isn't any problem. It is only .5 amps anyway, so not much. It also helps circulate the air throughout the camper as well.

I wanted to hook it up with 12v cigarette type outlets and when I looked for them at Walmart the cheapest they had was a "Y" setup, it has 1 male plug and 2 female receptacles. It was also the same price (or cheaper) than buying 1 each of male and female units ($5 or $6 if I remember right). I cut off the 2 female sockets and connected them directly to the 12v wiring that used to power the heater that I took out. I took the male plug and connected that to the wires that used to go to the battery compartment in the fan. So now I have a 12v socket for both the fan and the small inverter (which is powering my laptop now, WiFi courtesy of the AT&T store next to Home Depot where I am parked tonight. For such a cheap 12v plug/socket unit, it really works well. The plugs fit in securely, connect every time and the sockets even have rubber caps to cover them when not being used.

Here are a few pics, including some of hooking up the solar panels to the charge controller, inverter and fuse box. The meter shows the charge rate in amps.

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[SWbySWesty]

Hey Vic,

How are things going since we met a while ago at the hot springs? Where have your travels taken you?

Garrett
The guy with the VW poptop

[VicHanson]

Hi Garrett, Thanks for checking on me. I've been in the desert since Thanksgiving, after spend time in L.A. and the San Gabriel mtn. Went to the slabs near Niland, then 5 Palms south of there, Quartzite AZ and have been around Ajo and Gila Bend AZ for the last month. Just today heading back to Phoenix and then on to Tonto NF. Plan on being in Denver by Apr. 8th and then Minn. by the 1st of May. Having a great time, lots of hiking but not enough hot springs!

[VicHanson]

I just spent a week hiking and biking on the Black Canyon National Recreation Trail, north of Phoenix, AZ. It is open to hikers, mtn. bikers and horses. Some of the trail on the south end (starting at State Rt. 74) is just old jeep trails, but north of what is called the Boy Scout Loop to the Agua Fria River just north of the Black Canyon Trailhead is beautiful single track. It is a great hiking trail, but is even more fun on a mtn. bike if you like a rolling and twisty single track. It's not super technical but it gave me a good work out after not doing much mtn. biking for the last few years.

I'm also posting a few pics from the last couple of months, haven't had a lot of extra internet time to do it before.


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In Utah somewhere - Half Dome, Yosemite
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Big Sur, California coast - Big rig at Quartszite, AZ
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Sororan Desert Nat. Monumento near Gila Bend, AZ
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Hamburgers on the George - A friend on the trail
Foreman grill via solar power
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Black Canyon Trailhead - Bike art on the Black Canyon Trail

[VicHanson]

Well I have been visiting my son and some friends in the Denver/Colorado Springs area for a couple of weeks, wishing I was back in warm Arizona. I drove through the Superstition Wilderness on the Apache Trail and spent about a week near Canyon Lake. Great scenery and hiking, really enjoyed it.

After leaving there I took US Hwy 60 to New Mexico and then north. I did have some unwanted excitement on the way. Just before getting to I-25 I was going down a curvy hill with a very strong cross wind from the right. I heard a noise and got a glimpse of something that seemed to hit the cab. I had two cars behind me, a no passing zone and couldn't pull over due to a crash barrier and no shoulder. I slowed down (had been going 55 mph) trying to figure out what had hit me when all of a sudden I saw something flying across the oncoming lane on the left. The cars behind passed and pointed at my roof and honked.

As soon as I could I made a U turn and slowly went back up the hill on the shoulder. I soon found what I had lost - one of my solar panel laying shattered in the ditch! The mounting frame was still attached by the 2 bolts on one side, no bolts on the right side that had been facing the wind. Evidently those bolts had come out and the wind raised it up on that side and ripped the lag screws out of the roof on the left as the wind grabbed it and away it flew. Thankfully it blew straight across the 2 oncoming lanes (and there wasn't any traffic coming) and landed in the ditch.

All I can figure out is that the bolts vibrated loose with all the rough roads I had been on and the last one must have been what hit my cab. During Dec. and Jan. I had been tilting the panels to get a better angle for the sun, but hadn't needed to do that in Feb. and March. And I guess I hadn't checked them since then, which was a huge mistake!

So, if you have anything attached to the roof or sides of your camper, make sure you check the mounts regularly!

On a happier note, the other 2 panels are functioning fine and producing enough electricity to meet all my needs now with the longer days.

I needed to replace the 4 back tires but the price in Arizona was much higher than when I bought 2 new ones for the front last summer in Minnesota. I just got them here in Colorado Springs for about $120 cheaper, plus a $60 internet rebate! All prices were from the same chain, Discount Tire and the same tires, BF Goodrich Commercial TA Traction. The total mounted and balanced price was $768.51 including the rebate.

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Boulder Canyon Trail

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Apache Lake, Roosevelt Dam and Lake

[jronwood]

I just wanted to say what a great job you did on this unit. I am a welder, fabricator, blacksmith, sawyer, funiture designer, woodworker, and all around inventor. You did VERY well. You were wise to "nix" the camper and start fresh, there is ALOT of RV junk out there. I am converting an all aluminum Ambulance body into an "adventure camper" to pull behind my truck (family of 5) so need room and capcity on truck for fun gear.

Enjoy, Jronwood
Greensburg Pa.

[VicHanson]

Been a long time since I posted here. I spent the summer in Minnesota, then headed west through the Badlands, Black Hills, Yellowstone and Glacier, and then south through Washington, Oregon, arriving in Los Angeles in October. I am now back out in the desert south of Palm Springs, in the Salton Sea area, enjoying the hot weather, hiking and biking. Been playing in the low hills and slot canyons near Mecca for the last couple of weeks. Great fun, anyone want to come and join me?

[SWbySWesty]

Hey Vic!

I'm glad to hear that all is well. Since you're in the Salton Sea area, do you think you'll still be out there come late March when the Desert Rendezvous comes somewhere out to the SoCal desert? It would be great to meet up again and see how all your mods are holding up!

Garrett

[VicHanson]

Hi Garrett, Thanks for letting me know about the DR! I will be in Arizona by then, probably north of Phoenix. I've had a problem with my inverter lately, think I have it fixed now. Seems to have been just a poor connection with the input cables. I did have to get a new refridge last summer, the first one developed a freon leak and it was cheaper to buy a new one than repair it (small 120v unit). Have fun at the Rendezvous.
Vic

[RogueTacoma]

Hey Vic, I've loved reading this thread. What a great project, I'd love to do this someday. Let me know if you ever come through Medford, OR on I-5, I'd really like to see this.

[VicHanson]

Hi Rogue,

Thanks, glad you enjoyed the read. I hope to be up your way this summer, going north in June, south in Aug (?). Will try to keep in touch, will be good to meet you.
Vic

[mpike]

Hi, How was the camper attached to the aluminum bed? Through-bolted to one of the crossmenbers or to the frame?
How has it worked out? I've been advised on other forums, not to bolt my camper directly to my (still to be built) wooden flatbed, because most truck campers are not designed to be stressed in that way. And of course, wing tiedowns with springs are most common.
I expect to build under wing storrage boxes like yours. Perhaps they act as lateral supports?
Enjoyed the build read,
Mike

[VicHanson]

Hi Mike. The camper is bolted to cross members of the aluminum bed through the floor of the camper, it is also bolted to the frame in the front of the bike garage, which is quite securely bolted and screwed to the camper using galvanized steel straps. The aluminum bed may be less flexible than a wooden bed, not sure. The storage boxes were built with 2x4s so that may have stiffened it some too. The Luan plywood on the outside should have helped some too. The aluminum skin was attached to that with a Liquid Nails adhesive, but that wasn't the right material and it has bubbled up in many places. It is also screwed on so it is in no danger of coming off, but is not as strong a laminate as I wanted. No problems so far though and I have been on some pretty rough roads.

Glad you enjoyed the read. Do you, or will you, have a build thread? I would enjoy reading it.

Vic

[hdemetrious]

Vic-

Would two 210 solar panels be sufficient for you? Do you really need three? What size battery bank do you have?

Thanks,

Hani

[Ford Prefect]

I have a question about 4X4

As your truck is not a 4x4 I wanted to ask if you feel like you miss it in any way?

IE I am considering a build of a fuso/npr style truck and I personally do not think I need the 4x4 all that much. I do enjoy going on 4x4 trails, so I know I will take my truck in places most people will not take a 2wd truck, but it seems as though you do that as well, hence the question.

I have wanted to build a refrigerator truck for a while, but my wife likes your build a lot better. It looks rather competed and ready to use in a better time frame for her.

Thanks!

[VicHanson]

Hi Hani, I bought 3 because I run everything on electricity, and wanted to make sure I had enough for a couple of cloudy or rainy days in a row. After losing one I decided to wait and see if two was enough before buying a new one. So far it has been enough and I've never gone below 70%, so at this time I don't have any plans to replace it. I have 6 Trojan 6v T-105 batteries which gives a total of 675AH.

FP,

I have not yet felt the need for 4 wheel drive and I have taken it on some pretty rough roads. I have not been in the snow, wet or mud with it. I saw the same Isuzu trucks go on a lot of bad roads in Peru so was fairly confident it would meet my needs. There are two limiting factors that I have run into, the stuff inside gets all bounced down to the floor. I should work on better storage areas or restraints. The other problem is I haven't done any tilt testing so I don't know what the camper's limits are there. As a result I am pretty cautious on slanted roads.

As I had to do a lot of rebuilding on the old camper I bought, I would recommend spending more if neccessary to get a camper in better shape and the build would go a lot faster. I am glad I put in new insulation and used new siding. That was expensive and took time but was worth it in my opinion. It wouldn't have looked near as good if I would have tried to reuse the old siding and then new for the storage doors. Moving the door from the back to the side complicated using the old as well.

Vic

[VicHanson]

Just a note to say that I left Santa Barbara, CA this afternoon and am heading north along the Pacific Coast. I need to be in Seattle by Aug. 1st and want to be back down to Tahoe by the end of Aug. and in L.A. mid Oct. The rest is flexible. Return route will be down the Cascades and Sierra Nevada mtns, the plan is to hike and climb as much as possible. If anyone on the route has a favorite trail or peak I would love to hear about it, or to have you show me your favorite place! Just a meet up to say hi or a place to park for the night would be welcome too!

Thanks,
Vic

vichansonperu@yahoo.com

[SWbySWesty]

Vic! I wish I knew you were in Santa Barbara - I just passed through on Friday going north. Anyways, I'd love to meet up for a meal in October when you're back down in LA.

[jhrodd]

Vic (or anyone else passing by) ,
If you get up to Bellingham we have a very nice three acre compound in town with a full RV hook up. Mt. Baker is about 50 miles east and has some stunning hikes. This is the view of Mt. Shuksan from the Mt. Baker ski area :

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The road to Artists Point beyond the ski area didn't get plowed out last year since the snow was so deep. But they were busy plowing it last week with an anticipated mid July opening :

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We also have a scooter rally at our place on the last weekend of July (27,28,29) with about 100 participants, Camping,bonfire, outdoor movies, fun and games, and lots of free food. This year it's Alder Planked custom caught Copper River Sockeye, Dungeness Crab, and Prime Rib. Nothing special. You don't need a scooter to attend but if you have a MC endorsement we can fix you up. There are some interesting rides over the weekend.


108569

This is the scooter I take on the road when I'm working :

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[bptp7270]

G'day mate,

I just opened your lake/mountain peak photo upto fullscreen and wow !!! Spectacular vista, your very fortunate.

Regards

[jhrodd]

G'day mate,

I just opened your lake/mountain peak photo upto fullscreen and wow !!! Spectacular vista, your very fortunate.

Regards
Sorry to highjack this thread but thanks. Our Summer and Fall are very pleasant. That same location set a world record for snow fall in 1998 with over 60 ft of packed snow on the ground, it was higher than the chair lifts at the ski area.

"The world record for the highest seasonal total snowfall was measured in the United States at Mount Baker Ski Area, outside of the town Bellingham, Washington during the 1998–1999 season. Mount Baker received 2,896*cm (1,140*in) of snow,[65] thus surpassing the previous record holder, Mount Rainier, Washington, which during the 1971–1972 season received 2,850*cm (1,120*in) of snow.[66]"

View from the Bay :

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[bptp7270]

Hi Jeffrey,
Another picture postcard! I live in the southern most state in Aus and although we have some great vistas, we have no tall mountains or proper ski fields. Went to NZ a couple of years back and very similar lake views with moutainous back drops. Whilst the outback has its own particular appeal, I think that nothing can match the mountains for sheer oomph factor and you guys are very fortunate in that department. Ditto for the unintentional hijack.

Anthony

[VicHanson]

Thanks Jeffrey, beautiful....but looks too cold!

Vic

[jhrodd]

Vic, The snow may be cold but the air temps are in the mid 70's I was wrong about the road to Artists Point, it looks like it won't be open until August.

110792
Crews were working on clearing the snow-laden Artist Point upper parking lot Friday, July 13

[VicHanson]

Vic! I wish I knew you were in Santa Barbara - I just passed through on Friday going north. Anyways, I'd love to meet up for a meal in October when you're back down in LA.

I was just passing through going north as well, just got to Portland OR today! Have been having a good time hiking and enjoying the beautiful sights!

[VicHanson]

Hey Vic, I've loved reading this thread. What a great project, I'd love to do this someday. Let me know if you ever come through Medford, OR on I-5, I'd really like to see this.

I just got to Portland area today, I came up from Eureka, into the Marble Mountain Wilderness and then through Cave Junction and Selma to Grants Pass, so I missed Medford, sorry. I should be going through there on the way back south though, about the middle of August.

Vic