Need a rack system for a 17 foot canoe.

[R_Lefebvre]

Ok, so I have a fairly large canoe ordered, and now I need to figure out how I will get it on the truck. I want to be able to use the canoe solo, so I have to figure out how to get it on the truck. It should come in about 55 pounds, so getting it clean over my head is not an issue. But, how do I slide a 17 foot boat up on the truck?

Commonly people use simple foam blocks to support the boat on the roof, but this would require 2 people to lift the boat over and place it. If the truck wasn't so tall, I could load it from the side, but the truck is much taller than me. I think I need to be able to lift it overhead from the middle, get the front of the boat onto the back of the rack, and then slide it forward. I'd prefer some sort of roller system to avoid constantly scratching the gunnels. Any ideas?

I've seen the hull roller systems for kayaks, but those won't work as you want the canoe upside down. I can build, and would prefer some sort of custom rack setup. Just looking for some ideas.

This kinda thing looks interesting:

http://snowboards-for-sale.com/inno_attachments/canoe_rollers/

[User_Name]

What I did on my ladder rack was to take plumbing pipe insulation a size bigger then the rack tube, a couple wraps duct tape kept it from opening the slit and it made it work like a foam roller.

I found it worked best by using 2 pieces per crossmember, that way when you rocked the canoe back and forth each roller could roll at a different speed and didn't bind up.

[BIGdaddy]

this is your best option, Rob.
http://www.cabelas.com/p-0030168017442a.shtml

1. put the portage wheels on your canoe while its on its storage racks
2. lift your end of the canoe and pull it over to the truck
3. place your end onto the swivel rack
4. take the wheeled end and swivel it onto the front rack and remove portage wheels.

Thats the way I was going to do it with our Old town.

[XJINTX]

I just put a piece of PVC pipe over my Thule rear bar. Acted like a roller with canoe upside down. With pipe just a bit larger you would be surprised how long it heldup. I assume with foam padding it would protect the canoe too. However, my OldTown had hard runners on the edges and they did not need the protection. then I just used straps to hold to bars.

I'm an overly "worried wart" so I ran a tiedown forward and aft too :)

Now I have a custom built kayak/canoe trailer made from a single jet ski trailer so no issue :)

[R_Lefebvre]

BIGdaddy, how does that thing work? You load one end onto that rack, strap it down, then pick up the other end and rotate it around to the front? Interesting. But, I don't think that'll work too well. Won't be able to open the back door at all.

The foam roller is interesting, I really like the idea of foam over an ABS tube. That could roll well. I wonder if a pool noodle would work too, since they aren't split.

[BIGdaddy]

BIGdaddy, how does that thing work? You load one end onto that rack, strap it down, then pick up the other end and rotate it around to the front? Interesting. But, I don't think that'll work too well. Won't be able to open the back door at all.

The foam roller is interesting, I really like the idea of foam over an ABS tube. That could roll well. I wonder if a pool noodle would work too, since they aren't split.

yeah. exactly how you decribed it...

And Hey man, your thread is called a "rack for a 17 ft canoe"

not "rack for a 17 ft canoe that lets me open my door"

You expect me to read your mind?

:sombrero:

[TBRV]

First post, great forum with good info.

I always found it easiest to swivel the canoe onto the truck. I made my rear cross bar swivel so I attach the rear first then walk the front around. This idea could be modified to work with a rear door.

I have tried the roller route but with a long canoe it is dificult to do with one person. http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk238/3405spd/canoerack.jpg

[R_Lefebvre]

Heh... I wonder about some heavy duty 36" drawer slides. Pull them out to the side, walk under and plop the canoe on top, then push it back over. Drawer slides would obviously be overkill, but some other mechanism...

Or, is there a way to make a swivel attached to the roof...

[elmo_4_vt]

You could always model it after how the Ausy trailers load row boats. Mount a rack on hinges that can pivot on the passenger side of the vehicle and lower closer to the ground. Secure it to the pivoting rack, then tilt back up on top of the truck?

-

Edit... Like this:

http://www.australianoffroadcampers.com.au/images/stories/specifications_prices/optional_extras/marine_1.jpg

[R_Lefebvre]

I've been thinking about this some more. Does it really have to be any more complicated than a bar with some carpet wrapped around it? That's how our stationary canoe racks are done. As long as I try to keep dirt out of the carpet, I would think it would work fine?

[snipecatcher]

On my previous rack, I just threw everything right on the bars, and most of the time the paint that I took off the rack was immediately replaced with salt water. Everything rusts badly down here, so I took a different route this time. On my current canoe rack, I used cutting board material on the tops of the bars. An 18x24" cutting board cost less than $20, and I have lots left over. It is very durable and also pretty slick, which allows me to slide the 17' aluminum canoe across it very easily.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f159/ddsr5/DSC02891.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f159/ddsr5/DSC02895.jpg

[R_Lefebvre]

Damn, now that's good thinking! Thanks!

[BIGdaddy]

Damn, now that's good thinking! Thanks!

Any progress on your setup, Rob?

the delrin strips are a cool thought. Slippery once the canoe is up there, though?

I'd think you'd have to strap the crap outa it to keep it there??

maybe I'm not understanding the system..haha...it IS early. :coffeedrink:

[Chriscanoe]

I have a 16 foot Wenonah canoe that I load as you stated, from the back of the vehicle sliding on the rear rack to the front. I have wood gunwhales and yakima racks, and have had no problems with my trim getting messed up. I have 2 yakima canoe brackets on the front rack to "catch" my boat as I slide it forward. I have 1 bracket on the outside of the rear rack that is used to strap against to keep the boat from moving side to side in transit. This system works good for my big canoe, however it does not work so well for my whitewater canoe. For that one I use a milk crate go gain height and load it from the side into canoe brackets. BTW if your racks are spread far enough apart, and you use canoe brackets, you should not need to attach a bow and stern strap to yopur truck.

[snipecatcher]

Any progress on your setup, Rob?

the delrin strips are a cool thought. Slippery once the canoe is up there, though?

I'd think you'd have to strap the crap outa it to keep it there??

maybe I'm not understanding the system..haha...it IS early. :coffeedrink:

Once the canoe is up there, I just run two ratchet straps over it about 3 feet apart. I will usually also put a strap from the front of the canoe to my front bumper, just to be safe. I've driven over some really rough stuff with this setup, and the canoe has held strong to the rack.

[Lucky j]

I've been thinking about this some more. Does it really have to be any more complicated than a bar with some carpet wrapped around it? That's how our stationary canoe racks are done. As long as I try to keep dirt out of the carpet, I would think it would work fine?

I think taht with the carpet or the abs pipe over 1 of the bar should do the thing.

I have hully roller rear combo with sadle front for my kayaks, but I kind of need something like taht because of the shape of the hull and top, plus the rack on my YJ is more that7" high. If it wasn't for that, I would have keep it simple.

So if you simply protect that first bar (rear) with carpet or abs or else, you should be able to protect the top of you canoe. I realy don't think taht foam of any kind will support the robbing weight of the canoe. Specialy since you will be putting more weight on the rear bar will pushing the boat up and forward toward the front bar. My kayak have 15', 16' and 22'. I'm all able to place them on the jeep using the roller at the rear.

Good luck with your thinking.

[UNI]

You could pick up a Yakima Show Boat Roller unit "ONLY" and fabricate a couple of brackets to mount to your truck rack. I think the padded roller unit is 44" Long and 2" Diameter. Use the roller in the back and up front use a couple of Gunwale brackets and tie down straps.

[R_Lefebvre]

Any progress on your setup, Rob?



Not yet. I will probably have to struggle with foam pads for a while, as I have a lot of projects on the go. I realized the best thing for what I want is to build a whole new rack for my truck. Take the factory tubes off, and make a full-length rack, but will bolt the factory roof rack mounting points, instead of a drip rail clamping system. Just to keep it more streamlined.

[Albin]

Tagged since my son wants to buy a canoe and we'll be transporting by an '92 Pathfinder.

Thanks,

Al

[96r50]

Maybe I'm missing something, but why can't you simply get the canoe up over your head, walk up parallel to the truck and slide it directly sideways on to the crossbars? A couple of cam straps (not ratchet straps, they can be bad news) and presto, you're ready to roll!

[JKDetonator]

I have Hobie Mirage Pro Angler kayak and it's pretty heavy loaded out. I installed Yakima Hulley Rollers on the rear of the jeep, with Mako saddles on the front. It works pretty well.