Maine to James Bay March 2007

[mike h]

Looks like I'm driving to James Bay in March for about 10 days to do some research on the hydro-electric project and Cree culture. This link shows most of the communities I'll visit. (hit the map link)

http://www.creetourism.ca/james-bay-cree.asp

Anyone been there? I'll enter at Montreal. Not much of a hardcore expedition, these are maintained roadways. We'll be sleeping indoors. Two years ago I drove a three week, 4000 mile loop: Maine - Cape Breton - Newfoundland - Labrador (Trans-Lab Hwy) - Quebec - New Brunswick - Maine, but that was dirt roads in June. This will be all on hardpack snow/ice.

I'll be with one other guy (same person accompanied me on the Trans-Lab trip) who knows the region a little bit from previous (summer) trips. We will of course be prepared for multiple days in the truck should a major mechanical or stuck occur, but again, these are fairly well traveled roads.

I drive a well-built 97 Nissan Pathfinder. My primary decision today revolves around tire choice, currently on Goodyear MTRs (31 x 10.5) but these aren't so great for covering ground on hardpack snow. I could look into getting them siped, or maybe I should buy a set of BFG ATs, or the Goodyear AT version of the MTR. I'd rather not buy dedicated snow tires just for this trip.

Thoughts?

thx,

m.

[BajaTaco]

Michael, this sounds like a GREAT trip! Good luck with it.

On the tires, I think the BFG AT's would be great for this trip. If you wanted something a bit more aggressive, I can tell you that I am using the Cooper STT's and they work really well in snowy/muddy/icy/slushy conditions. The BFG's will last much longer though.

[upcruiser]

Great link for the info. I've wanted to go up this way for some time. I'd really like to go in the summer though and get some paddling in on the bay and inland waterways. KMR who posts on this forum has made this trek before from the east, maybe he'll post up some additional info for you.

[mike h]

Thanks for the input - mounted a set of 31x10.5 BFG ATs on Cragar Soft-8 steelies, so I have a complete second set of wheels/tires in addition to the MTRs. As heavier tires go, the MTRs are very streetable, but I forgot how quiet the ride can be with ATs. I can actually hear my exhaust again. We went over the Nissan closely this weekend and did fluids, dealer did an injector cleaning service and alignment; everything looks ready to go.

m.

[KMR]

Ooooh that is going to be fun!
The BFG ATs will do great in the hard packed snow roads they have up there, the tread pattern seems to be the perfect compromise to clear the lugs and yet be quiet and manageable on the road.

[BajaTaco]

I agree on the BFG's... Scott's Tacoma rides so nice and quiet with the new AT's on there. They'll work GREAT for where we are headed.

[Lost Canadian]

Mike, I was actually up there a few years ago. It can be a somewhat boring drive as it's fairly flat, but it's OK. I'm not sure if you are going any further then the northern part of the James Bay road but if you do end up jumping on the Trans-Taiga Road go seriously prepared, there are no towns around aside from the hydro settlements. Spares and fuel are a must. Also be prepared for an emergency. You don't want to be stranded up there in summer let alone winter. Cell phones don't work that far north either so a sat. phone is a good idea. Emergency phones are spaced out over a pretty good distance. Watch for rocks because there are some pretty big ones scattered along the road that will kill tires. Any chance you have to fill up do it. Fueling stations span some pretty good distances. Other then that enjoy the drive.

[mike h]

I'm not doing the Trans-Tiaga, just Radisson and Chisasibi, then working south and traversing west to the communities on James Bay as time permits. I'd like to return north with one or more other vehicles to explore the Trans-Tiaga one of these seasons, preferably in the fall. Those tangential roads are considerably less travelled than James Bay Road or Trans-Lab, which have light traffic daily.

When I drove the Trans-Lab, I was a bit shocked at the level of ignorance we encountered among fellow travellers who were very unprepared. Certainly we met several who were very independent and self-sufficient, but the Quebec City couple who's tire I changed for them was a disaster waiting to happen.

I'm expecting it to be a monotonous drive, but I enjoy that level of remote landscape, it has its own rewards, just experiencing the vastness of place. A lot of white place, I expect, in March.

I'll carry two mounted spares, full fluids, filters and a few belts/hoses, 5 gallons of fuel on the roof, recovery gear - my usual backcountry kit. This particular route is remote but not in the sense that a mechanical will leave us 'unfound' for days. My bigger concern is whiteout conditions and impassable drifts. But again, this would mean waiting for less than 24 hours for the plow crew. Not exactly a severe hardship, but reason for concern. No sat phone, not expecting the cell to work, nor many options for the CB.

We're comfortable in winter conditions, so we'll have appropriate clothes/bags/food if we have to spend time camped out in the vehicle. But when I say winter conditions, I mean around zero - this region can become much colder. I'm more concerned about potential vehicle problems with the cold than human.

But that is exactly what makes it alluring as well.

m.

[Lost Canadian]

The wife and I are doing "the loop" with a jaunt down the trans-lab this June. How were the ferries? Did you see any ocean life? My wife is hoping to see some whales.

[Scott Brady]

Sounds like a great trip! I look forward to the updates on your travels.

[paulj]

The wife and I are doing "the loop" with a jaunt down the trans-lab this June. How were the ferries?.

I haven't look at trans-lab web sites in a while, but my impression is that the ferry situation varies from year to year, particular the run to Goosebay. They have been extended the road north along the coast of Labrador, so the south end of the ferry run can change with the road progress.

The government of Newfoundland and Labrador has reasonably good web information on this route. I've also found various travelers journals.

paulj

[Rhode Trip]

My wife and I did a loop through Newfoundland and Labrador this past August. We went up through Maine to Bay of Fundy NP in New Brunswick, then to Cape Bretton NP in Nova Scotia, then took the ferry from North Sydney, NS to Channel Port aux Basques, Newfoundland. Went up the west coast of Nfld to Gros Morne, NP where we stayed about 10 days. Then north to St Barbe, Nfld. Ferry from there to Blanc Sablon, Quebec- that is not connected by road to the rest of Quebec- and drove north from there along the south coast of Labrador- they have only had a road connecting these fishing towns for about 2 years now. Spent about a week along here, up to Cartwright, where the road ends. From there we took a ferry overnight-14 hours- to Happy Valley/Goose Bay, Labrador. YOU NEED RESERVATIONS FOR THIS FERRY. The others, not so much, but this is just a stop on a long ferry from St. John's, Nfld, so there often isn't room, and it only arrives 2 times a week.
From Happy Valley/Goose Bay, a weird slice of suburbia in the middle of the wilderness, we drove west to Churchill Falls- where we stayed in town, with free electric hookup, since there's nothing there but the hydro plant. West again until Labrador City, again with anything you might need- Labrador's only Walmart!- over the border to nearby Fremont, Quebec, and then south from there to Baie Comeau, Qc.
Almost all of this distance from Blanc Sablon is on Gravel Highway- better than I expected it to be. The section south from Fremont (QC389, I think) is the roughest.
Then south to Quebec City, and home from there through Vermont. A really great trip, we were gone a month, and could easily have stayed much longer. We like hiking and flyfishing, so that's what we looked for. I could tell you a lot more, so feel free to let me know if you have any questions. At some point I hope to have more of my photos online. Here's a few:http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/rhodetrip/DSC01745.jpg Southern Labrador landscape
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/rhodetrip/DSC01763.jpg
Inuksuk on the road to Battle Harbor
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/rhodetrip/DSC01812.jpg
Sunset on the Goose Bay Ferry
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/rhodetrip/DSC01968.jpg
River crossing in Quebec
This is my first post on this forum, I hope it works out!

[Lost Canadian]

Fantastic. The wife and I have 6 weeks booked off for our trip. Ironically enough we are following almost an identical route as you did, only difference is we are coming from Ontario and will be dipping down into New Brunswick from Quebec. Thanks for the insight and pics. Now I'm really excited.:hehe: We are going to the Outdoor Adventure show in Toronto tomorrow and hope to gain some valuable info from the people of Tourism Newfoundland and Labrador. I'll be sure to keep your name close at hand however should I have more questions.

Cheers

[Rhode Trip]

Well, I forgot the most important part. Tell your wife we saw a whale while on the Ferry from St.Barbe to Blanc Sablon!
I've been planning to do the Trans-Taiga this year, so maybe we can trade some notes. We overnighted right at Muskrat Falls, which was an awesome spot. Here's another photo:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/rhodetrip/144-1.jpg

[Lost Canadian]

Actually maybe you could help me. Aside from the NP's was it hard to find remote spots to set up camp in New Brunswick, Nova Scotia or even Newfoundland? I would love not to have to spend too much time (or money) camping in parks if we can avoid it. I am kinda afraid we'll be forced to in certain spots however. Gros Morne NP, and along the Cabot Trail will be the major exceptions of course.

[paulj]

RVers, when they want to camp on the cheap, use the parking lot of stores like Walmart. However, there has been a lot of talk (on RV.net) about one of those provinces, New Brunswick I believe, banning that type of camping. Supposedly this was at the behest of commercial campground owners, who thought they were loosing business.

paulj

[Lost Canadian]

No parking lot camping for this kid that's for sure.:smilies27 Our only real shelter will be the comfy confines of our Hannibal R.T.T. Preferably opened only when resting upon and overlooking a beautiful vista.

[Rhode Trip]

Sorry, didn't try any Walmarts. Its actually Nova Scotia that has the law against overnight parking. NB and NS are very developed and are like anyplace else for camping. We're self contained, and frequent trailheads which often offer quiet, out of the way spots to overnight. I don't call it camping...I have a backpack for that. Newfoundland is more relaxed, and has a tradition of camping "in the pits"...gravel pits left from road construction. Its easier to find spots here. Gros Morne is fantastic, anyway, and with the fishing economy devastated and now reliant on tourism, I really don't begrudge the local folks the few bucks it costs to camp there. Labrador is wide open and very relaxed. You'll find plenty of spots there. I mentioned Muskrat Falls as my favorite, though.
Regards,
Jim

[Lost Canadian]

That's pretty much what I figured. One of my good friends is from Lunenburg NS. He had said that we would be hard pressed to find anywhere aside from parks to camp at in NS and NB. NF I wasn't so sure about but I had figured that Labrador would be pretty much wide open.

Thanks so much again.

[mike h]

Rhode Trip - that is essentially the route I took as well. We did it in late June, and the ferries were EMPTY. We had made reservations, and sleeping berths, but there were less than 100 people on board. It was nice, but kind of spooky. I should put up a webpage about the trip one of these days.

We were surprised to find some parks closed in Nova Scotia, as they use July 1 as an opening date. We spent a day at Louisborg, which was impressive.

http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/

Once in Gros Morne, we camped a few nights at Trout River in a Parks Canada site, and only three other cars were there. The showers were HOT, and so clean - they really exceeded our expectations. There was a fellow van camping on a sweet overlook near Trout River.

Enroute north, in Labrador, we spent 3 nights at Battle Harbour, a Labrador island, which was fantastic. No bugs!

http://www.battleharbour.com/home/

The Trans-lab does have many places you could pull over and camp. No problems there. We chose to push through to Lab City and get a hotel, as that was a rainy stretch for us. It seemed legal to throw down a roadside camp wherever you wanted in NF and Labrador. I did see a few trucks set-up in gravel pits, not exactly scenic. Not many choices off the roadside - it's all bog, Canadian Shield, wetlands - not many dry, open prairie fields like you may find in the midwest.

We did not see any whales, although we're told it is common on the Blanc Sabon ferry. No icebergs either - a sign of the times.

The Walmarts took us by surprise - dissapointing. Fermont is worth exploring. The scale of the strip mining is staggering. Tim Hortons becomes a welcome lifeline. The manic 5 hydro series is great, and that road is neat - I gotta go back on my motorcycle from the St Lawrence north, what a great stretch of twisty pavement.

We returned via Baie Comeau, which we did not have a reservation on because we really didn't know what day we would exit. We made the ferry on stand-by, but barely. Then we spent a day traversing the Gaspe on dirt roads, along the International Appalachian Trail, which was also great fun. Gotta go back there as well.

Met a few guys on dual sport motorcycles doing the loop, and a few on bicycle. That is a hard pitch - I have no desire to pedal my way across the Trans-Lab, but more power to them.

[Rhode Trip]

Mike, I checked out your website...very cool...I have your Maine AT map in my collection!
The HV/GB ferry was the only crowded one we encountered...wish I had known to reserve a berth, had to sleep on the floor.
Bugs were not bad in August.They're worse in Maine! Trout River was the same when we were there, only a couple of vehicles. There was no one else at Green Point when we stayed there...in the wind and the rain. Gros Morne was not crowded at all, which suited me fine.
We spent 5 days on the Trans-Lab, mainly just on short rambles out into the backcountry, slow going in that landscape and no trails to follow. Drove up aways towards Esker, but got concerned about fuel so we didn't go all the way. Next trip I guess.
Good luck on your trip to James Bay, please post about your experiences.
If anyone has information about diesel sources on the Trans-Taiga, please let me know. Is it for sale at Hydro Quebec installations, or only for HQ vehicles?

[Lost Canadian]

After you leave Radisson there is a fueling station at around KM 300 on the Trans-Taiga, I can't remember if they sold diesel however. After that there were no other spots to stop for fuel. Not sure what kind of range you have but it's a little over 660 km to the northern tip of the road. We had to use the extra fuel we brought. I have a Hydro-Quebec number for visitor information if you would like, they may be able to help give you some definitive answers. It's 1-800-291-8486.

[Rhode Trip]

Thanks Trevor. Any more than 350 miles for me is really pushing it...I've got that big honkin' 1 ton truck and with the diesel, you need to keep a sufficient reserve. I'm thinking I might invest in a small trailer to extend my range... I'll check with Hydro Quebec, too. Thanks!

[Lost Canadian]

I just read my last post and want to clarify, when I said about 660 KM to the end of the road I meant the road is about 660 KM start to finish. If you can fill up with diesel at that last stop on the Trans-Taiga, around KM 300, you should be OK with just having to pack up a jerry can or two of extra fuel.

Cheers.

[Rhode Trip]

Nova Scotia...not so good for remote camping, but here's a tasty treat:

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/rhodetrip/20.jpg

:chowtime:

[mike h]

We succesfully completed the James Bay roadtrip, put up a website here:

http://www.purplelizard.com/james%20bay.htm

I want to go back for the Trans-Taiga road in the summer, one of these summers...