Auxiliary lights

[Brian McVickers]

Ok with a rack full of Hella Rallye 4000s at $800 each at one end of the options and a flashlight from the dollar store held out the window while trying to drive on the other end!; What would those with lighting knowledge recommend for additional lighting. :bowdown:

I'm not concerned about looking cool with a bunch of spotlights but rather providing adequate lighting for safe driving.
The sort of lights I would use on a dedicated night time trial ride or on an afternoon trial ride that runs late into the night while you try and find a river crossing. :xxrotflma

The first step may be to upgrade the light bulbs in the vehicles headlights, but beyond that?

Also there seems to be a wide price range for lights from $10 - $100 - $800.
What are the factors to consider:
Lenses, Reflectors, Bulbs, wattage, power efficiency...? :confused:

[Jonathan Hanson]

This should be a good thread.

Yes, short of a set of Hella HIDs with those steal-me-red rims there are a lot of good choices. I used to have a set of Cibie Oscars which were brilliant lights until the lenses got sandblasted after years of use. Now I run two big round IPF 130-watt lights on the front bumper. They throw a beautiful pattern, wide and even, and light up cows a half mile away. I think lights in this price range ($120 each) such as PIAA and Hella are probably all pretty good, although I hear reports of spotty quality control at Hella now and then. But for that money you get really good reflectors and lenses.

It's important that the lights are waterproof. A friend of mine went the Pep Boys route with his driving lights, and they lasted exactly one muddy trip through Apache country.

Personally I don't like mounting driving lights on the roof, although I know many will disagree. Unless they can be mounted back far enough, or shrouded, so they don't glare on the hood, I find them more of a distraction up there even though the coverage is theoretically better. Aerodynamics suffer as well if you're trying to keep your highway fuel mileage up. The guys over on Expedition Exchange just love to load up the roof racks of their Discos with as many lights as can possibly fit.

Cibies seemed to disappear from the American market for a while, but you can get them now from Daniel Stern Lighting. Don't know if the quality is the same as Cibies and Marchals of yore.

I drove a truck equipped with a set of Cibie pencil beams once. They threw a narrow cone of light an unbelievable distance, but I'm not sure it was useful except at seriously supra-legal speeds. I think one really good pair of driving lights and a headlight upgrade is sufficient for most off-road vehicles.

[Brian McVickers]

How about another couple of twists:

The difference between Fog Lights and Spot or Driving Lights

as well as

The differencen in size, huge round lights vs. smaller compact round, oval or square lights.

And the difference in Wattage ie, you often see 55w, 100w or 135w but the Hella 4000s only draw 35 watts?

[Scott Brady]

Brian,

I am not really that into lighting, and never on the roof (glare and trees, bad combo).

I have two Hella 4000 driving lamps on the front bumper and they are WAY more than I need. However, I am a fan of work lamps, the lights that allow you to see at camp, or while backing up. I use the Hella Matador.

On the Trooper, I only upgraded the headlights to PIAA's with a higher wattage high beam. Great coverage and distance.

The Lightforce lights are nearly indestructible, which wins major points with me.

[asteffes]

Here are some thoughts from my experience with different lights.


Beam patterns:

Fog beams - broad, wide spread, short distance, low to the ground to light up the sides of the road in poor visibility conditions.

Driving beams - narrower, longer-range, good for higher speeds.

Pencil beams - super-narrower, tightly focused beam for ultra-long-range applications. Pretty useless for most folks unless you're haulin' tail through a pitch dark stretch of desert and you need to see the kangaroos miles ahead.


Wattage:

Most common lights are 55 or 100 watts. This refers to the power consumption of the bulbs and, indirectly, the brightness of the light coming out of the lamp. More wattage means a hotter burning filament and more light. However, this brightness does not increase linearly with wattage, so after about 100 watts the benefits from brighter bulbs starts to fall off. Also note that the more current drawn and the bright the filament, the more heat that is created. Heat slowly destroys the tungsten filaments and causes bulbs to burn out more rapidly. In general, given the same quality bulbs, higher wattage bulbs do not last as long as lower wattages. Some of those wacky 130+ watt lamps also require constant movement to cool the lenses and bulbs to prevent burnout. ARB makes some 150 or 170 watt lamps that require such movement.


HID vs. Halogen:

Halogen bulbs use electric current to make a tungsten filament glow white hot. The halogen gasses inside the bulb allow the filament to burn hotter and brighter without combusting.

HID, or High Intensity Discharge, use a high voltage current to create an arc across two electrodes inside a xenon-filled capsule. They use less current (35 watts vs. the 55-135 in halogen lamps) but use a ballast to amplify the power up to around 30,000 volts to strike the arc. These lamps cost more, but provide incredible brightness and longevity. They also get stolen if a theif knows what he's after.

If you don't want to spring $500+ each for a set of Hella Rallye 4000 Motorsport HID lamps, you could buy a set of halogen Rallye 4000s and buy an HID retrofit kit that replaces the halogen bulbs with HID capsules. This can work well with good quality lamps (which have good reflectors and sharp lenses) or it can be awful with cheapy lamps that don't focus all the light properly. I have, for example, used an HID retrofit in a pair of Hella 500s and in the projector headlamps of my old Audi 90 (with RS2 headlamps), both of which focused the light very well, didn't blind anyone and provided phenominal lighting of the road.

Hope this helps.

[offroad_nomad]

I'm happy with my auxillary lighting, a combination of Hella 550s and Piaa 520s.

On the roof rack:
4 Hella 550s facing forward, 2 driving lights in the center with 2 fogs on either side. I also have a pair of 550 fogs on the rack facing the rear.

On my TJM bumper:
2 Piaa 520 fogs.

With daylight savings in effect, it gets dark early here. The additional lights makes a big difference on dark trails. Right now this combination suits my needs.

[BajaTaco]

I have used roof mounted lights with good success. I think it just depends on the vehicle and the lights. As Jonathan mentioned, if the lights are mounted far enough back on the roof, the glare is not a problem. It can be a huge problem if you get the light beam washing anywhere between the forward edge of the roof and the forward edge of the hood. Because I have an Xcab truck with a fairly long roof, the lights actually work really well from the front of the roof rack. A benefit to this location is that it offers some light "bleed" off to the sides of the truck, which allows you to see some details off-trail immediately outside the driver and passenger windows. Just draw an imaginary line from the proposed light mounting location to the front edge of the roof. If you then continue to extend this line forward at the same angle, if it hits the front of the truck before it hits the ground, then you might have problems with glare. If the imaginary line ends well out in front of the vehicle somewhere, then they will probably work fine. As Scott mentioned - trees can be an issue and are a risk that you take if you have glass lenses. This is one reason why I like the LightForce lights so much - they don't use glass.

Also keep in mind the weight. Some lights are freaking heavy with lots of steel and metal parts. Heavier lights not only add weight, but require more attention to bracing or they will vibrate like crazy. Another reason why I love the LightForce lights - they are LIGHT.

[blupaddler]

One thing to consider...You can have twelve HID lights worth $$$$ on your vehicle.

But, if you are on a trail run and aren't the "lead" truck, then you and your lights are useless.

[offroad_nomad]

Yea, I hear you. I don't like blinding the guys up front. When I'm not up front at night, I'll only illuminate my outboard fogs and not the center driving lights. The fogs are angled away from the center so that they cast their light mostly to the sides. Helps alot on turns and switchbacks.


One thing to consider...You can have twelve HID lights worth $$$$ on your vehicle.

But, if you are on a trail run and aren't the "lead" truck, then you and your lights are useless.

[goodtimes]

Something else to keep in mind when considering upgrading your factory headlights. By increasing the wattage of the bulbs, you are increasing the amp draw through the wiring harness. This can become an issue as more amperage will mean more heat....it is entirely possible to start a fire this way. So, be sure to do the math, and see if your wiring is up to the task. Going from a 55 watt headlight to a 110 watt headlight will literally double the amp draw.

FWIW, most factory harnesses are borderline with the typically available upgraded bulbs....meaning that the wires will likely heat up, but not enough to cause any damage. Obviously that will vary with manufacturer, and even model/year of the truck in question. But it is always better to be safe than sorry.

[njtacoma]

Take some time and review the information on Daniel Stern Lighting. He makes a very strong case against using higher wattage 9006 bulbs. The summary is that DOT lighting in the US doesn't allow for precise enough aiming of the bulbs so you lose much of the light, also higher wattage low beams can glare other drivers also because of the poor reflector designs.

Now on my former fj60 I had Hella Headlight assemblies with stock wattage and Hella 500 driving lights on the bull bar. The 500's were wired to the high beam switch so when I turned off the high beams the driving lights turned off. I liked this setup for dusk or dawn runs down the road, to or from the trail head, when the suicidal deer, elk and antelope like to come out and play. For the trail I would agree with what has been said, worklights are your friend.

Again, quite a bit of good info on http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

[goodtimes]

Something else that I just remembered reading a few years ago.......dirt and pitted lenses will typically cause a huge loss of usable light. Some study done by someone somewhere at sometime......found that simply cleaning the headlights of the average car on the road will result in approximately a 10% increase in the visable (useable....whatever term they used) light. The biggest problem was with the HID lights (AKA: Xenon). The dirt and pits on the lens (not the mirrored parabaloid used to focus the light....the front cover of the fixture) caused such a dispursion of the light that it created a hazard for other motorists in oncoming lanes of traffic.

In short....keeping your lights clean can make a marked improvement in your night-time lighting needs. And it's free...the best part!

[Nullifier]

Well I have 4 Hella FF-75 lights tucked into my yakima roof basket. There is nothing sticking up and they are guarded by the racks frame. Very compact and inexpensive, but do exactly what I want. In fact the smoked lexan windscreen hides them copletely unless I flip it down.

[gjackson]

I've got 2 Hella 4000s on my bull bar for good low down driving light. Also have 2 Hella 330 on the roof rack facing forward and 2 facing backwards. I use the rear facing 330s more than anything else. Aimed at a steep downward angle they make great reversing lights for tight spaces and dark runs. I usually aim the forward facing 330s off to the side of the car. If facing forward they give too much glare off the hood, but off to the side they are great for hunting for campsites after dark. And for spotting animals after dark. I have used them to track hyenas through the bush and they worked great for that.

The 4000's give a great driving beam, wide and long. In Africa animals, especially donkys will sleep on the road at night because it is warm. It's good to see them before you get there! :Wow1:

cheers

[Life_in_4Lo]

I'm looking to mount some lights in the ARB bullbar.
I seem to get into situations where I am chasing the sunset on trails so I want a good offroad flood.
I was looking at the Lightforce 170. Adj beam and that seems like a good thing. A couple friends have the 240, which are massive but effective... another told me to look at WARN and Hella.

Any specific recommendations?
Thanks all

[Scott Brady]

I have had excellent success with the high quality Hella lines. The H4000 driving is very effective at moderate speeds, with wide coverage and a very white light. Mounting is very solid and durable. Hella work lamps are also very effective.

I would not recommend any of the other Hella's (550's, etc.), as they have had mount failures.

Lightforce is a first class light. The 170 would be at or near the top of my list.

I am looking into the Hasmar lights right now. Relatively unknown in the aftermarket, but big-time in commercial heavy duty markets like mining, etc. They have some sweet LED and HID work lamps available. I hope to report on them soon.

[BajaTaco]

I have used the LF 170's and loved them. Awesome lights. As far as actual light output goes, I mounted one side by side with a 6" KC 100w round light, and the LF was barely brighter. Same wattage bulbs, so my guess is that the slightly larger reflector, and the reflector construction on the LF is what gives it an edge. There is quite a price difference between those two lights, but I myself would spend the extra $ on the LF for the lightweight, high quality construction, and the shatterproof lenses and filters. I think they are worth it just for that alone. The light output is great too.

[Life_in_4Lo]

So I'm doing a little internet shopping and looks like the 240 is a value

140=$200
170=$267
240=$325

I have seen the 240's on my friend's 80 and it looks great... always tempting to GO BIG :cool:

I gotta account for a switch/wiring into the budget as well... considering the price differential, what do you guys think?

also check out this mpeg of how tough they are!
http://www.off-roadlights.com/ATOUGH.MPG

Thanks guys!

[blupaddler]

I have the 240's...They aren't mounted yet.

But they do fill up the ARB bumper quite well!!! ;)

[mountainpete]

This is the review I did for the Auxillary lights on the front of my truck. For the price, you just can't beat IPF 968's.

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/index.php/IPF_968_Driving/Fog_Lamps

[BajaTaco]

So I'm doing a little internet shopping and looks like the 240 is a value

140=$200
170=$267
240=$325

I have seen the 240's on my friend's 80 and it looks great... always tempting to GO BIG :cool:

I gotta account for a switch/wiring into the budget as well... considering the price differential, what do you guys think?

also check out this mpeg of how tough they are!
http://www.off-roadlights.com/ATOUGH.MPG

Thanks guys!

If the extra cost isn't a big deal for you, and the massive size doesn't bother you (make sure they will fit where you want them) I would get the 240's. They have the same bulb as the 170's, just a larger diameter reflector (obviously). Although I didn't get to compare a 170 side-by-side with a 240, the 240's are supposed to be considerably brighter from the larger reflector, and I think that is probably accurate. I'd love to see them side-by-side though.

Getting back to the KC/LF comparison I mentioned earlier, I found some pics I took at the time.

On the trail - 6" KC on left, 5" Eagle middle, 170mm LightForce on right. The bush on the LF side is a bit closer, so the brightness difference is a little deceiving, but with the LF adjusted to a concentrated beam, you can see that it is a bit brighter than the KC.

http://www.bajataco.com/lights/kcleft-lightforceright.jpg


This is with lights aimed at a white wall about 50' in front of the truck. 6" KC on left, 5" Eagle middle, 170mm LightForce on right. Here the difference isn't quite so obvious.

http://www.bajataco.com/lights/kcleft-lightforceright02.jpg


Another pic taken with the LF light opened up a bit more using the adjustable reflector (like a mag lite flashlight). Now with the LF pattern flooded a little more, the difference is becoming more obvious.

http://www.bajataco.com/lights/kcleft-lightforceright03.jpg


And finally, the LF light opened up pretty wide. At this point, the beam is flooded quite a bit, but like the maglite flashlight, the center becomes somewhat distorted due to the reflector adjustment.

http://www.bajataco.com/lights/kcleft-lightforceright04.jpg

[BajaTaco]

A site you may want to check on for LF pricing - SDHQ (http://www.superdutyheadquarters.com/lighting.htm)

(Notice if you buy in pairs they say **free freight**)

[Life_in_4Lo]

BajaTaco, you are DA MAN! :bowdown:
thanks for all the info and leads!

[BajaTaco]

You're welcome. Glad I could help.

[Desertdude]

Thanks Chris for that light shoot out - I can only fit a 6.6" size light in my bumper - I like the fact that the LF lights are adjustable - looks like the 170's for the front of the Tacoma :)

[Desertdude]

Any thoughts on the cover filters?

[HongerVenture]

I've been really thinking over the auxilliary lighting issue for awhile.

You see, I really like the stock T100 headlights with the Daniel Stern recommended bulbs in them. I want to upgrade the wiring per Daniel Stern as well.

I have a set of KC Daylighters that I got for free and used on the Blue T100 I formerly owned. Driving with those lights through rural, mountainous WY really aided in seeing the deer before it was too late. They were mounted on the roof rack far enough back that they didn't glare on the hood. Loved 'em!

However, I need fogs. In the evenings and early mornings, the drive to/from my house has a lot of low-lying fog. I don't really like the idea of putting lights on my rig for fog because I'd like the option for additional driving lamps for trips. Hence the lightforce filters...

I am planning LF 170's for the front of my truck, mounted on the TJM. In daily use, I will run them with a yellow filter and pointed in a downward direction. On a trail I can put a clear filter on as needed and point them forward facing... adjusting their focus to pencil or flood as needed. The only problem I see with this is that the 170's may be to high-powered to work as a fog light even with the filter... so I was thinking of putting only half-voltage through them when being used as a fog. Thoughts?

Further regarding the filters, I wonder if the red filter would effectively aid in night driving by not washing out your ability to see. Red light doesn't affect your rods and cones the same as normal lighting.

Finally, when the camper shell and roof rack are installed, I'll also have the KC lights on top. They were an added benefit and their height really helped. And I already own them. ;)

[Life_in_4Lo]

I recently installed my LF 170's. I really wanted them but didn't want to spend the $$. I found these used but in perfect shape so I snapped them up for a real good price.

A friend was good enough to give me some 55W offroad lights that I have been using- they gave a bit of fill but the hi beams overpowered them so they were not as useful at night. Now they are retired.

I like the 170's they stick out just past the ARB uprights so I get max. light fill on the trail. The other lights were thin and the ARB bullbar cut off the side fill. As you guys know, a pitch black trail, you want plenty of fill and I am not so concerned with max. distance.

These 170's are quite a bit more powerful! Thanks for all the info Chris and others. I just wish I had them a week earlier for the DV trip, I needed them!!

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/6033/1874/1600/LF.jpg
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/6033/1874/1600/LF1.jpg

[Desertdude]

Very nice James! I think the 170's are a better fit than the 240's (240's seem a bit to large for the ARB)

With your 170's in DV you would have seen Sasquach coming from miles away :Wow1:

[Mlachica]

I love my lightforce 170's. I've had them for about 3 years without any issues. They're lightweight, bright, versatile and indestructable! They help A LOT on pitch black trails and washes. I've also used different filters. My favorite happens to be the yellow one's - the increased contrast helps a lot. Here's how they're mounted:
http://www.4wdtrips.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4177&d=1141941669

I'd like to mount a couple lights on the roof as well, I'm just trying to come up with a practical, and sturdy way of mounting them. I plan on using the one's on the roof for widening my lighting pattern (for turning).

[robert]

I ran Hella 4000s (non HID) on my old Tacoma with an ARB and liked them a lot. I salvaged one of them following the wreck (it held up fine, the other took part of the impact) so I'll probably just buy one more and use them on the new Taco. One thing I did that I really liked, was getting a factory Toyota foglight switch and mount that instead of the ugly Hella rotary switch (they were on a relay obviously). I'd like to try the new compact 4000s but they're as expensive as the regular sized.

I had also switched out the sealed beams (95.5) for the Hella H4 style with 80/100 bulbs. That was a huge improvement in itself and I never had any issues with the wiring like some folks warn of.

I had an inexpensive set of Blazers or some such on the back that I had used silicon grease to seal. They worked fine until I knocked one off. I'd have to say, with a camper shell on the back and tinted windows, better backup lights are just as important as front lights.

I ran Hella 500s on my FJ40 but never was really impressed with them. The lenses fogged and I ended up snapping one of the plastic mounts on a branch.

edited for spelling

[blaze one]

Has anyone had any experience with the IPF 968 ( or somethin like that ) 7" round 55watt lights ??
I have a chance to pick up 2 Brand new for $100usd or 4 brand new for $175usdollars . Just wondering if they are worth it or not . Thanks.

LInky to lights .

http://www.arbusa.com/ipf_usa_968_868.htm

[asteffes]

Has anyone had any experience with the IPF 968 ( or somethin like that ) 7" round 55watt lights ??
I have a chance to pick up 2 Brand new for $100usd or 4 brand new for $175usdollars . Just wondering if they are worth it or not . Thanks.

LInky to lights .

http://www.arbusa.com/ipf_usa_968_868.htm

They're a good value. I would spring for all four at that price. Put two on the bumper and two on the roof (or into the spare parts bin.) Throw 100 watt bulbs in them for maximum utility (they can handle it.)

[asteffes]

I ran Hella 4000s (non HID) on my old Tacoma with an ARB and liked them a lot. I salvaged one of them following the wreck (it held up fine, the other took part of the impact) so I'll probably just buy one more and use them on the new Taco. One thing I did that I really liked, was getting a factory Toyota foglight switch and mount that instead of the ugly Hella rotary switch (they were on a relay obviously). I'd like to try the new compact 4000s but they're as expensive as the regular sized.

I had also switched out the sealed beams (95.5) for the Hella H4 style with 80/100 bulbs. That was a huge improvement in itself and I never had any issues with the wiring like some folks warn of.

I had an inexpensive set of Blazers or some such on the back that I had used silicon grease to seal. They worked fine until I knocked one off. I'd have to say, with a camper shell on the back and tinted windows, better backup lights are just as important as front lights.

I ran Hella 500s on my FJ40 but never was really impressed with them. The lenses fogged and I ended up snapping one of the plastic mounts on a branch.

edited for spelling

I'm using the Hella 80/100 watt H4s in my '06's headlamps with excellent results. They're so good that my 55 watt Hella 500 driving lamps are nearly pointless. I might try the 968s with 100 watt bulbs and just sell off the Hella 4000 Eurobeams I have sitting on the shelf (awaiting an ARB to prop them up.)

[robert]

I'm using the Hella 80/100 watt H4s in my '06's headlamps with excellent results. They're so good that my 55 watt Hella 500 driving lamps are nearly pointless. I might try the 968s with 100 watt bulbs and just sell off the Hella 4000 Eurobeams I have sitting on the shelf (awaiting an ARB to prop them up.)

If you decide to get rid of the Hellas let me know, I might be interested in them.

[p1michaud]

Thanks Chris for that light shoot out - I can only fit a 6.6" size light in my bumper - I like the fact that the LF lights are adjustable - looks like the 170's for the front of the Tacoma :)

Chris, you always have something up your sleeve!

Desertdue, the 170's look great on the front bumper of a Tacoma IMO! :D The adjustment feature is great, having different filters is another bonus no to mention how light weight these lights are. Very very well made product.

I was fortunate enought to find a set of "used" ones from a board member who was upgrading to 240's. They are mounted on my TJM T-17 and stick out a bit, but I can live with that. These things are bright compared to the previous PIAA 520 that were mounted in the same location.

I would like another set to install on the Roof Basket for even more ligthing.

Cheers,
P

[p1michaud]

Has anyone had any experience with the IPF 968 ( or somethin like that ) 7" round 55watt lights ??

Mountainpete has done a review\writeup (http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/index.php/IPF_968_Driving/Fog_Lamps) on the IPF 968 lights.

Cheers :beer:,
P

[asteffes]

If you decide to get rid of the Hellas let me know, I might be interested in them.

Oh reeeeeaaalllllllyyyyyy.... :) At this point I would be happy to recoup my expenses. They've been unpacked from the box once just to gawk at them, then they went back into the boxes and onto the shelf in my den. I have the clear rock shields, too, to protect them once on the vehicle. However, these buggers don't fit on the stock '05+ bumper, so I would need an ARB or something to prop them up. Spending a grand to hold up $250 worth of lights seems slightly silly.

Shoot me an email and let's discuss. :coffee:

[asteffes]

Has anyone had any experience with the IPF 968 ( or somethin like that ) 7" round 55watt lights ??
I have a chance to pick up 2 Brand new for $100usd or 4 brand new for $175usdollars . Just wondering if they are worth it or not . Thanks.


They're a good value. I would spring for all four at that price. Put two on the bumper and two on the roof (or into the spare parts bin.) Throw 100 watt bulbs in them for maximum utility (they can handle it.)


Tell you what, blaze one, you buy all four 968s. Robert buys my 4000s. I buy one set of 968s from you. That's a win-win-win situation! :victory:

[asteffes]

I have Hella 500s on the front of my Taco now and like some people here, have been underwehlmed by their performance. Part of the problem is the 55 watt H3 bulbs. H3s are sub-optimal to begin with, and 55 watt bulbs in a driving lamps just don't have enough output to really light up the road. My 80 watt low totally blow away the 500s. Hella does not recommend using a higher wattage bulb in the 500s for fear of melting the housings or cracking the lenses. Can the FF1000s use a 100 watt bulbs safely? If not, I think I'm going to look for some IPF 968s.

[xcmountain80]

I had read here and there that the lightforce 240 blitz lights were amazing, I found a pair on ebay for $200 and figured I would give them a shot. Sure enough the reviews were right on track and talk about bright! WOW. Also the ability to adjust the focus is truly nice. I like my yellow filters for the rain and fog we encounter here in FL. I would say not for everyone given the large size.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P9200357.jpg


Aaron

[flyingwil]

I am not really that into lighting, and never on the roof (glare and trees, bad combo).


Scott-

What made you change your mind? (swwwweeeet set up BTW)
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/SEMA_2006/expedition/day_0/EW_Tacoma.jpg

[xcmountain80]

Yeah I think the new setup looks good too, does Morphic offer not so pricey setups? I checked out there website looking for something to house my other set of LightForces but didnt come up with anything.

Aaron

[adventureduo]

I just installed 4 HELLA 500's because i needed something quick for a trip. They're okay. They're not as bright as my IPF's that i had before.. but good nonetheless. Now.. im not planning on running through the desert at 100mph at night. So i dont need to see for a mile ahead of me. These just put out like a few hundred feet ahead of me. They worked fine for me last weekend , when i was blazing down a road i had never been down @ 50mph at night.

another note: like people say, if you mount them ontop of your rack or over your windshield like i did, you will get tons of glare.. and you will need install a glare shield for each light. I have the brightest set of map lights EVAR LOL :wings:
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/4143/10250620482fp6.jpg

[offroadchef]

I had read here and there that the lightforce 240 blitz lights were amazing, I found a pair on ebay for $200 and figured I would give them a shot. Sure enough the reviews were right on track and talk about bright! WOW. Also the ability to adjust the focus is truly nice. I like my yellow filters for the rain and fog we encounter here in FL. I would say not for everyone given the large size.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P9200357.jpg


Aaron


Where did you pick up that front plate from?

Markus

[xcmountain80]

The custom front plates come from Griots Garage http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp
I have ordered a few from them I also have another one that reads mostly backwards "evom revo" MOVE OVER and my work plate Howard III. The company that acctually makes them is based out of Daytona FL which I thought was odd because that about an hour from where I live. They do a great job and hold up well, I have had this one since Oct of 05 so just over a year and still reflective and the german one comes with cool cert. sticker like exp. year month.


Aaron

[Scott Brady]

Scott-

What made you change your mind?


Driving in eternal darkness in a few months :)

The mod is specific to the Arctic Ocean Expedition.

[Jonathan Hanson]

The adjustable beam on the Lightforces seems great in theory, but the ones I saw on flood setting had a huge dark spot right in the middle, like a cheap flashlight. I'd rather stick with a separate light for each pattern if needed. My big IPF driving lights provide all the light I can use in the FJ40, and it's a beautiful even carpet of illumination. For a faster vehicle I would add a pair of pencil beams.

I also plan to try a set of complex-reflector headlights on the FJ, to replace the Cibies on there now.

[xcmountain80]

To be honest I dont use the adj. feature I have an additional set of yellow difuser lenses that kick the light out to the sides. I have not been able to outdrive these lights yet. I would say on the interstate they make objects visible up to 3/4 mile or so. I'll put it this way they go farther than I can see. I do like them and since I didnt have to purchase either pair new it was a new and good light for me. I have had PIAA 520's, 580's pro 80 xt's IPF line Ive just the J-01's dual beam. Hella 500's the cheapo ones. I have to say @ 100w these are crazy bright and very efficient. Though they are so freakin huge!!

Aaron

[Nullifier]

well I have 2 hella ff-75 in my rack. I would love to run light force up top but we have so many low branches down here that I'm afraid they would get broke off or I would constantly be adjusting them. I wanted something that would fit in my rack so they would not get broken off.

I plan on testing some piaa lights in comarison to the hella. But the Hella were like $60 a pr on ebay so hard to pass up.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b318/nullifierx/richloam/93089236-M.jpg

[xcmountain80]

well I have 2 hella ff-75 in my rack. I would love to run light force up top but we have so many low branches down here that I'm afraid they would get broke off or I would constantly be adjusting them. I wanted something that would fit in my rack so they would not get broken off.

I plan on testing some piaa lights in comarison to the hella. But the Hella were like $60 a pr on ebay so hard to pass up.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b318/nullifierx/richloam/93089236-M.jpg


Second the stuff that gets broken from low branches. I cant blame you thats why I have yet to make anything to fit on the roof of the 4Runner i had hoped for a slick flat rack like the African outback racks but alas nothing yet. Hope to have a local fab shop make something similar. We did a night run long ago over in west palm beach "corbett" I believe it is great time. Roof lights on the Pickup were inexpensive hella's and they worked well. My whole thing was "if they get broken they were only $60. Though speaking of tough I ran into a Toyo Carolla a few weeks back at about 25-30mph on the verge of slowing from 50mph and the lights were sent into the grill on the 4Runner. The lightforces held there own no cracks or breaks just had to pull them out of the grill, oh and the TJM didnt do bad either, I truly felt bad for the poor lady I hit.

Aaron

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P7070124.jpg

Aaron

[devinsixtyseven]

this here is a GREAT reason to get a few extra lights :Wow1:

yotakabob (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=520463)

-sean

[offroad_nomad]

Don't forget to use your aux. lights if you have them or else this could happen when you can't see ahead:
https://www.expeditionexchange.com/hella/P1010431.jpg

[Jonathan Hanson]

Was that Scott driving before he perfected the vertical descent technique?

[offroadchef]

The custom front plates come from Griots Garage http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp
I have ordered a few from them I also have another one that reads mostly backwards "evom revo" MOVE OVER and my work plate Howard III. The company that acctually makes them is based out of Daytona FL which I thought was odd because that about an hour from where I live. They do a great job and hold up well, I have had this one since Oct of 05 so just over a year and still reflective and the german one comes with cool cert. sticker like exp. year month.


Aaron


thank you

Markus

[HenryJ]

... I don't like mounting driving lights on the roof, although I know many will disagree. Unless they can be mounted back far enough, or shrouded, so they don't glare on the hood, I find them more of a distraction up there even though the coverage is theoretically better...
The box lights light up the hood and create too much glare on the windshield to be very usable while driving.My lights are mounted very forward as they are attached to my cargo box. On a crew cab truck the option to move the box back far enough is just not there. I finally did something about the windshield glare issue.

http://www.s-10crewcab.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10006/eyebrow.jpg

I added a piece of polished aluminum to the lower portion of the lights. This shades the windshield and hood.
With the lights on and at night I slowly raised a piece from the bottom until it just shaded the point of the hood. This turned out to be about an inch below centerline of the light. The piece fits against the glass and is pushed down against the rubber seal. I used a thin strip of adhesive foam taper to attach the top to the lens.
There is still some light on the hood, but the glare that was on the windshield is now gone. The reflection on the hood is greatly reduced and I still have very good long range lighting.

I am again fighting a relay bounce in starting the lights. I need to research this further. I did read something about an electrical bounce when looking into the bipolar latching relay.

[NorCalBronco]

this here is a GREAT reason to get a few extra lights :Wow1:

yotakabob (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=520463)

-sean

holy crap, that's a crazy story!

[madizell]

I can believe everything except the 10 to 15 mph part. But let me guess -- alcohol was involved.

[dsrtdcab]

for those of you mounting lights on your rack, (tacoma specific), where are you tapping into for a power source?

[Tanto]

well I have 2 hella ff-75 in my rack. I would love to run light force up top but we have so many low branches down here that I'm afraid they would get broke off or I would constantly be adjusting them. I wanted something that would fit in my rack so they would not get broken off.

I plan on testing some piaa lights in comarison to the hella. But the Hella were like $60 a pr on ebay so hard to pass up. [/IMG]

I was planning on installing four driving lens FF-75s or FF-50s on my roof rack for the same reasons.

[bat]

I think lighting should be done as to your vehicle makeup. Why would someone spend money on lights that you can see a mile down the road. The only reason I would what lights to travel that far would be in a race car or offroad buggy. How often are you going to out drive your lights with an expedition vehicle. I say keep it simple light up the side view and maybe some driving lights to extend past the headlights. Why spend so money on lights when you could put it in suspension or expedition stuff.

[Tanto]

I agree with that and plan two on the corners at a 45 and two in the center so I can see low tree limbs and such. Then one more out back for reverse situations.

[crawler#976]

I think lighting should be done as to your vehicle makeup.

I couldn't agree more!


Why would someone spend money on lights that you can see a mile down the road. The only reason I would what lights to travel that far would be in a race car or offroad buggy. How often are you going to out drive your lights with an expedition vehicle. I say keep it simple light up the side view and maybe some driving lights to extend past the headlights. Why spend so money on lights when you could put it in suspension or expedition stuff.

I'm real fond of some long range lights when traveling the back country. Both our Tacoma's have been upgraded from Hella 500's modified to take 100W bulbs to Euro beam HID's this year, and I couldn't be happier. The Euro beam pattern takes care of both near and far, and the HID light is pretty much like daylight vs. the yellow colored light from a halogen bulb.

We live in cattle country, and frequently travel in areas where Elk are the predominate large game animal. Many of the back roads are paved or very good dirt roads with speed limits from 35 to 55 MPH. Other than the cream colored rump of an Elk, they blend into a dark back ground pretty well. We seem to have a lot of Black Angus up in the high country, and they just flat disappear at night. The Hella's helped us spot critters in time to slow down safely, and the new lights are showing us even more animals we were missing previously.

Mark

[xcmountain80]

I think lighting should be done as to your vehicle makeup. Why would someone spend money on lights that you can see a mile down the road. The only reason I would what lights to travel that far would be in a race car or offroad buggy. How often are you going to out drive your lights with an expedition vehicle. I say keep it simple light up the side view and maybe some driving lights to extend past the headlights. Why spend so money on lights when you could put it in suspension or expedition stuff.


Perhaps if your expo rig is a DD and you often travel in the middle of the night on desolate roads that can be cluttered with large animals and you avg speed is near 65mph or a little better. Long range light are handy, it gives me ample time to react to the situation at hand.

Aaron

[bat]

I guess if I was driving down a road cluttered with large animals at night going 65+ mph I would want long range lights or maybe slow down.

[madizell]

for those of you mounting lights on your rack, (tacoma specific), where are you tapping into for a power source?

Tapping into power for off road lights isn't really a vehicle specific thing. Use relays, draw power direct from the battery with appropriate fuse in line, and use either stock switches or your favorite toggle inside. Many states require that such lights only come on with your high beams, and if so, use a high beam signal as a trigger for the relay with the dash switch as an interrupt of that trigger signal. This way none of your switches carries a high load, and all lights get the benefit of 14V direct from the source.

[xcmountain80]

I guess if I was driving down a road cluttered with large animals at night going 65+ mph I would want long range lights or maybe slow down.

Slow down? Man these are hard time we can use whatever meat we can get! They are handy, I was thinking of switching to another system with mid range and fog. Though with the yellow diffuser lenses it decreases the range and widens the pattern. Though with the ARB it is hard to mount any fog low enough w/o them getting ripped off.

Aaron

[xcmountain80]

Tapping into power for off road lights isn't really a vehicle specific thing. Use relays, draw power direct from the battery with appropriate fuse in line, and use either stock switches or your favorite toggle inside. Many states require that such lights only come on with your high beams, and if so, use a high beam signal as a trigger for the relay with the dash switch as an interrupt of that trigger signal. This way none of your switches carries a high load, and all lights get the benefit of 14V direct from the source.

This is to true I know to many folks who try and tap inline with headlight for power and end up frying the wiring.

Aaron

[R_Lefebvre]

I have two Hella 1000FF's on my ARB with 100W bulbs, and in concert with the stock high and low beams, it's plenty of light for driving on desolate highways at night with giant rats (deer) around.

I would like a little more side lighting but not much I can do about that.

If I put lights on the roof, they'll be for closer in, throwing light down into holes.

[xcmountain80]

While we are discussing lights and filters I'll post this in show me your lights as well for additional feedback. I have a 02 4Runner and when I went for an aftermarket bumper I lost my fog lights (I really like the factory hella lights). Today while I was driving home I though hmm what if I left my aux light relay hooked up to 1 LF 240 with a Yellow disp filter, and the other hooked into my fog relay for Hi/ Low applications of course I have the option of either both yellow 1 disp and 1 spot or both clear in the same format as the yellow or with the currently available in my garage 1 clear spot and 1 diffuser yellow. When I swapped the bumper I Used the universal 2 plug connector to wire the turn signals the fog lights the auxiliary lights so in the event the bumper needed to be pulled there was no cutting and re splicing involved.


Aaron

[JamesDowning]

I'll bring this thread back to life. I figured I would post up a couple opinions here.

I had originally made my roof rack lightbar on a tight budget. I used 4 55W Blazer Baja tractor lights. These were cheapies, a mere $30 a pair. So, I essentially have 220 W on the roof rack. The light output was certainly disappointing, but it did it's job. The light from the roof helps a bunch on dark and wet or snow covered roads and trails. The light seems to bounce less off the reflective surfaces, which provides for a seemingly brighter road. They also cut down a good deal on pothole shadows.

Working on a higher budget, I was able to be a little more picky when purchasing grille lights. After reading reviews, I finally chose a pair of Hella Rallye 4000 Cornering beams. While the pair cost nearly $250, the light beam is incredible. The beam is probably 140 degrees wide, yet the horizontal cut off is perfectly at the centerline. I can drive around with them on, and never get flashed by oncoming vehicles. The amount of light is amazing too. They seem at least twice as bright as my low beams, and I can easily see more with ONLY them on, as opposed to my low beams.

I was previously under the impression that all lights were essentially the same. Boy I was wrong. The higher priced Hellas are certainly worth the added cost if you have the budget.

http://images.thedownings.us/tb/lights-pose.jpg

Here's the compulsory lights-on pose picture.

I'll certainly reccommend the Hella 4000s, especially the cornering beam pattern. I'm now shopping around for replacements for the roof lights. I've got to bring them up to par with the Hellas!
http://images.thedownings.us/cheers.gif