1989 4Runner Expo Build

[Rather Diesel]

I thought I would start a new build thread on the 4Runner I'm putting together. Here is what I started with:

1989 4Runner
22RE
auto-trans
a/c
88,000 miles
plain-jane interior (no power anything)

[Rather Diesel]

Here is a PhotoShop of what the truck should look like when completed: (the fuel cans may go, they should be yellow anyway)

[mountainpete]

Bring it on! :clapsmile

[Rather Diesel]

After finding this forum and one other site for expedition travel, I ended up removing all the mods I made previously. There are so many great ideas here!

Goals for truck:

seats three
sleeps three INSIDE (fairly comfortably)
onboard shower (no propane)
interior sink and countertop with food-prep area
12v fridge-freezer
interior (fresh) water storage 20-gallons
aux fuel tank 27-gallons
urinal inside truck (thanks to this site for the idea)
microwave (for miserable-cold weather when I can't / won't cook outside
room for lots of gear without needing a roof rack
room for five to sit upright and enjoy the visit
diesel engine conversion

I think that's all of it. I hope you folks enjoy the build. All ideas and input are welcome! If I'm screwing upsomewhere, please jump right inand tell me. This is my first build of this kind.

Roy

[Rather Diesel]

Rear body floorplan from above:

[Rather Diesel]

Driver's side rear body:

[Rather Diesel]

What's under the doors (driver's side):

[ChuckB]

That's is awesome, I love those 1st gen 4-runners.

What diesel are you looking at? Keeping it Toyota or maybe Mercedes Benz?? Not sure what the smog laws are in MD, but you may want to check into it. Could be VERY painful or easy depending on the laws regarding the engine swap.

Just saw that you are in Frederick, my wife went to HOOD. Needles to say I have spent many weekends up there.

[FJ Cruiser]

This is a smart design. Can't wait to see the build up.

[Rather Diesel]

Passenger side:

[Rather Diesel]

Passenger side with doors on:

[Rather Diesel]

That's is awesome, I love those 1st gen 4-runners.

What diesel are you looking at? Keeping it Toyota or maybe Mercedes Benz?? Not sure what the smog laws are in MD, but you may want to check into it. Could be VERY painful or easy depending on the laws regarding the engine swap.

.

Maryland said "bring it in when you get the emmisions notice, we walk out, see it's really a diesel, and we write up a waiver."

I already have the Mercedes turbo-diesel and auto-transmission.

Roy

[Rather Diesel]

I found this little beauty on eBay. Cost-$3.00........but I did have to drive two hours to get it. It was about 12" too long for the 4Runner, and it obviously wasn't going on the truck without some mods. I kept only the top 6" of the top, and i trashed the rest. I was going to use the rear doors, but the skin was really thin steel, and the inner structure was aluminum. I don't have a TIG, and using bolts wasn't an option.

So, I removed the fiberglass top and tailgate. (rusted out and rear window broken)

Then, I came across a PC server cabinet that was being tossed. This thing is incredibly well made and heavy-duty construction. A great source of body panels and thick reinforcements was now in the garage.

[jingram]

I was watching your thread anxiously over on 4wdtrips.net (http://4wdtrips.net). It was a really great thread and you were doing great fab work. Why did you have the thread removed and are acting like you just started the build? You were really far along in the process and had some great pictures. Did you start over? Looking forward to seeing the end result! :ylsmoke:

[Rather Diesel]

I was watching your thread anxiously over on 4wdtrips.net (http://4wdtrips.net). It was a really great thread and you were doing great fab work. Why did you have the thread removed and are acting like you just started the build? You were really far along in the process and had some great pictures. Did you start over? Looking forward to seeing the end result! :ylsmoke:

I didn't mean to imply I just started the new build, only that I just started the new thread. The reason I deleted the thread, is that I gutted almost all my work and started over. It is a better design top to bottom.

I thought the fact that more photos would be posted today would give away the fact that this was started a while ago.

[ChuckB]

Maryland said "bring it in when you get the emmisions notice, we walk out, see it's really a diesel, and we write up a waiver."

I already have the Mercedes turbo-diesel and auto-transmission.

Roy

Can I say in the nicest way possible that I hate you and I'm jealous!!! :bowdown:

[Rather Diesel]

The truck was gutted inside and out. The only rust damage on the frame was the front crossmember. This was removed and replaced with a piece of 2"x3"x.25" rectangle.

The entire frame was stripped to bare metal and primed with Rust Bullet. I have never seen a paint get so hard in my life! This stuff turns to stone!

[Rather Diesel]

Every part was removed from the truck, first inspected, stripped, primed and painted. I wanted this to be a NEW '89 4Runner when I'm done. If the part needed replaced, it was done at this time.

[Rather Diesel]

I added another fuel door pocket for the auxilliary tank. This came off a crashed 4Runner in PA. This way, it will look factory.

[Rather Diesel]

Here is one of the server-rack side panels. This panel is 30" high. I removed the tail lamps and shortened the rear bedside panels about 5" so the new body lines would match better.

You can see one of the double rear doors. These were removed and replaced with a single unit.

[Rather Diesel]

Here's a pic from the front. The roof rack was also tossed, but may be replaced with a new design when needed. I'd like to avoid a roof rack because I might make this my daily driver,and may need the better MPG. Iwill definitely add roof rack brackets now,in case I need a rack later. If I make the brackets lengthwise with nuts pre-installed, I can't imagine they would create any drag without a rack attached to them.

[HongerVenture]

This is wicked-cool build! Keep going...
:drool:

[upcruiser]

Wow, what a great project. I'm curious to see how the interior turns out and what route you go with the suspension to cope with the new weight and offroad demands.

[Rather Diesel]

Wow, what a great project. I'm curious to see how the interior turns out and what route you go with the suspension to cope with the new weight and offroad demands.

I'll probably go with OME torsion bars up front. I was thinking about Firestone airbags for the back with the stock springs. The weight of my rig will vary widely from daily-driver to ready-for-expo.

I can't even consider an SAS until after the truck is MD inspected. I really don't think it would offer much benefit for my application.

I am open to input, though.

Roy

[Rather Diesel]

After removing the tail lamps and the double doors, I shortened the body about 5", I then used 2x3x.25 rectangle, and drove it as far up the rear frame rails as it would go. It's seems strange, but even with shortening the body, I still needed to lengthen the frame about 8".

The "spare tire crossmember" needed to be removed to make room for the auxilliary fuel tank. Obviously, the spare needed to go as well. The aux tank is from a military Blazer. It holds 27 gallons. I made a cage of 3/4" square tube to surround the tank . I then used 3/16" steel plate to attach the "cage" to the frame rails. The fuel tank should now support the entire weight of the truck in the rear. I'll add a bolt-on skid plate a little later.

After all the inner structure was welded up on the rear body, I plated it with 16 gauge sheetmetal. All accessories shown on the rear body are just tack-welded in place. Well,not the window. :P That's an eBay special just held in with duct tape for now. Because the rear window is pretty small, I guess a backup camera or bigger side mirrors may be needed.

[Rather Diesel]

One jerry-can may go since I'm carrying a lot of fuel. I want to keep one to help other folks who may run out, and need a trip to the gas station. (when used as a daily-driver)

I'm thinking of moving the one can to the rear door, moving the ladder to the left, and moving the jack to the right side. I'd appreciate input on these decisions.

The rear bumper is 2x6x.25 rectangle. The shackle mounts go the whole way thru the bumper and become the inner bumper brackets. The outside bumper brackets are 1/4" plate. The new extended frame rails are sandwiched between these bumper brackets. The bumper will serve double duty as a air tank.

The black rectangle above the door is a vent that can open face-up or face-down. After paint, I'll mount two 50mm 12v fans (seperately switched) to keep the condensation inside the cabin to a minimum.

[Rather Diesel]

I made some progress on the rear interior. I used 1/2"square tubing for the structure. It might not be the lightest, but I'm comfortable working with it, and I have a MIG welder. It's tough to see what's really going on i the photos, but here they are anyway.

Looking back from passenger side door:

[Rather Diesel]

Looking back from driver's door:

[Rather Diesel]

From rear door looking at both sides:

[Rather Diesel]

The bed folds up to fill the aisle:

[Rather Diesel]

I just won part of my rear cabin heat and shower heat system. It's a Ninja-250 radiator, fan and temp sensor, all for $31 shipped. Now, to make it fit.

[jingram]

Looking good... keep us posted! :lurk:

[Rather Diesel]

Okay, I just finished the two trays for the 10 gallon freshwater tanks. Now, I can disconnect two hoses, pull one pin,and the tank comes out. I thought cleaning them would be MUCH easier in the house.

The pics don't really show enough to post; maybe when the inner structure is painted. I'm getting really close to the "interior paint" step, and assembly can begin.:wings:

Roy

[Rather Diesel]

Time for an update:

Winch plate designed so a 2" receiver tube can fit thru it so I can mount at rear if needed.

[Rather Diesel]

The winch-plate drops into the front bumper, and is secured by two hitch pins. This way, I don't need to store the winch inside the truck. It's made from 2x6 by 1/4" rectangle tube. Brackets are 3/8". Shackle mounts are 3/4" and go thru the entire bumper.

[Rather Diesel]

I decided to use a factory spare mount from a Jeep. One spare tire on the rear door, and one on the cab roof. I went with a door-mount spare, so the rear door can be opened from the inside. A bumper mounted spare would prevent this. Ignore all the burn/weld marks I used to mount temporarily until I found the right spot to drill and mount.

[Rather Diesel]

Here an air compressor mount I fabbed for my MV-1052 compressor. This is under the passenger-rear storage compartment.

[Rather Diesel]

The interior panels are going in now. I decided to use fiberglass panel board because of its light weight and easy trimming. This is a shot looking back from the driver's door. The trim was not installed on the front because I'm still shopping for a side window for the third passenger seat in the back.

[Rather Diesel]

Here's a shot from the passenger door looking back. All interior panels will be painted medium-gray to match the front inter panels and uphostery.

[Rather Diesel]

Here's my rear heater setup. A front panel is not installed so you can see the setup. There is a fan and temp sensor mounted on the back,facing up. With the front panel installed, the hot air is forced thru the vent above the seat cushion.

[Rather Diesel]

I mounted the hi-lift to the exterior on the passenger side. The exterior shower box is shown below. Locking tabs for the jack are not welded on yet.

[Rather Diesel]

Looking left from the rear door. The sink will go in the corner below the secondary fuse box cover. The 12-volt fridge goes in the opening opposite the fuse panel. Microwave goes above the fridge. I have dropped the idea of a 110v fridge.

[Rather Diesel]

From rear door looking right. Both long doors on the side drop down with storage behind. The gray will be uphostered. This seating-for-two is for when the vehicle is NOT moving or for emergency passenger capacity if required.

[Rather Diesel]

From rear door with bed-center in "down" position. This design conserves valuable headroom. Unfortunately, I had to install three interiors before I was happy with the design. What works great on paper, worked terrible in the truck.

[Rather Diesel]

Bed-center in "up" position. Farthest end of bed surface is not shown. The front section of the bed is actually stored in the headliner when not in use.

[Rather Diesel]

To keep this a budget build, I wouldn't buy the rust-repair panels to fix the rust around the wheelwells. So, I removed 3" along the entire wheel-opening, and welded a new edge to close the wheelhouse. I quick coat of filler, and I'm done. About $360 was saved.

[Rather Diesel]

Again, to stay low-budget, I added 2" angle to the rocker panels. I welded the angle directly to the rockers. The reinforced rocker-panels can easily support the truck weight if needed.

[DaveInDenver]

I decided to use a factory spare mount from a Jeep.
Getting lots of work done, looks good. Did you have to move the bolts on that spare tire mount or did they line up? The Jeeps are 5 lugs, 4WD Toyotas are 6 lugs. Just wondering.

[Rather Diesel]

Getting lots of work done, looks good. Did you have to move the bolts on that spare tire mount or did they line up? The Jeeps are 5 lugs, 4WD Toyotas are 6 lugs. Just wondering.

If you put one stud thru a wheel hole, the other two studs on the carrier fit perfectly inside the hub hole. I'll make a plate/lock to cover the studs and sandwich the rim to the carrier.

[dieselcruiserhead]

Very cool.. I have thought long and hard about a rear swingout versus a single rear door. this is a problem a lot of the Rover guys have understandably because of the single rear door that can also be accessed from the inside. The idea I have is sort of a hybrid of some of the D90 type setups. the door keeps the rear door closed, and there is a pivoting/bushing isolated connector so the swingout opens when the rear door opens.. I'll see if I can dig up pics.. I was going to have some tabs in the actual rear bumper so the swingout locks into this for load carrying purposes when the swingout is closed. then the rear door opens it so it is always the rear door (aka one handle) that opens the rear swingout... I hope this all makes sense..

[Rather Diesel]

Very cool.. I have thought long and hard about a rear swingout versus a single rear door. this is a problem a lot of the Rover guys have understandably because of the single rear door that can also be accessed from the inside. The idea I have is sort of a hybrid of some of the D90 type setups. the door keeps the rear door closed, and there is a pivoting/bushing isolated connector so the swingout opens when the rear door opens.. I'll see if I can dig up pics.. I was going to have some tabs in the actual rear bumper so the swingout locks into this for load carrying purposes when the swingout is closed. then the rear door opens it so it is always the rear door (aka one handle) that opens the rear swingout... I hope this all makes sense..

I think I know exactly what you mean. I tried two versions of what you are describing, (like a compound hinge) but I couldn't come up with a design I was happy with. I have now reached the point that getting truck done in a timely manner supercedes cool ideas. It is a neat idea, by the way.

Roy

[N8URE2]

any updates on this build? new pics? how's it coming along? looks good so far!

[Rather Diesel]

Sorry, I haven't touched the truck since I started my new job as a CNC-machinist. With the commute, I'm doing 60+ hours per week.

I have no idea how I'm gonna finish this project.

Roy

[erod]

hang in there!

[N8URE2]

what you have so far looks great, stick with it if possible, I'm sure you will get it finished in time.

[Redline]

I agree.

I just found and read this thread. I'm so very impressed with your abilities to build/create and love that it will have diesel engine.

I hope you find time to finish it.