Wildernest Spare Parts Info

[Nonprophet]

For those fellow Wildernest owners (or future owners) who are in need of some replacment parts, I've done quite a bit of research (I'm restoring a used '96 Wildernest for a Tacoma x-cab) and I've got some info on spare parts:

1. Bulb seal. This is probably one of the first parts to go as it is pretty fragile. If your lid doesn't seal properly when you close it, water will get in and a wet tent stored wet equals a rotten/dead tent! The best match to the original bulb seal from Wildernest that I've been able to find is from Uni-Grip (http://www.uni-grip.com/Bulb_1.html) and it's their bulb seal #PTL-124. Unlike a lot of manufacturers, they'll actually sell you less than 250' (!) For the 77" long version like I have that means you need 25' to replace the seal. Uni-grip only charges $1.25 a foot--pretty reasonable!

2. Hardware. I live in the PNW, so I'm replacing all the hardware (screws, hinges, latches, etc.) with stainless steel. The screws that hold the tent and headliner etc, are pretty easy to find at your local hardware. The hinges (I have 5 on mine) are National 4" with 1/4" rounded corners. The national 4" hinges are all 4 hole/screw which matches what I have now. Seeing as there is only one set of holes drilled to mount my hinges, I'm assuming that they are orginal. The replacement hinge in stainless steel is National part# V514rc 4x4 SS hinge. My local hardware store was able to order them for me for $12 ea. with no shipping charges.

3. Locking t-handle. When I bought mine the owner couldn't find the key. A locksmith wanted $25 to make one, but a local canopy store sells new Snugtop locking t-handles with 2 keys for only $18. My t-handle was fastened with pop rivots, so I had to drill those out and widen the holes a little to get the new Snugtop handles installed. I used stainless steel screws and lockwashers.

4. Rear door weatherseal. Mine came with this big-*** foam rubber seal that made it hard to engage the latches without moving the whole camper back an inch or so on the rails. It was kind of beat up anyway, and I wanted to replace it. I started looking around for the stock replacement (and found it at Uni-Grip) but it's just too darn big! If you order the replacement bulb seal above, add another 5' or so to your oder as the bulb seal works just great on the rear glass/door!

If it's of any help to anyone, I have an original owner's manual that came with my new/used one--and I'd be happy to scan it and post it here as a PDF file. Also, I remember a thread where someone was missing the 2 v-shaped aluminum brakets for the upper ventilation windows--again mine is complete and I'd be happy to take pics so other could fabricate a replacement set for themselves.

Mine also came with the kitchen organizer, bedding and clothes hammock, and the tailgate curtain/window, and I'd be happy to post pics and specs on those items too if it would be helpful. I also have the 2 original outrigger poles and the 3 fiberglass stays.

I just love these campers, and ever since I sold mine back in '95 I've been wanting a new one--imagine my suprise when I found one in great shape that fits my Tacoma right here in Eugene, OR where I live!! The weather is supposed to be gorgeous this weekend, so I'm off for some Steelheadin', I'll take some pics of my rig and 'Nest and post them when I get back!


NP

[paulj]

On my Wildernest, the door lock had an inside handle, secured to the square shaft with a set screw. I screwed an aluminum wear strip on the edge of the lower tailgate, and remounted this inside handle so engaged the wear strip when the lock was closed. Thus I locked the upper tailgate to the lower one.

The only problem with this arrangement was that the inside handle is cast from a cheap pot metal, and eventually breaks. But it is easy to buy a replacement at any rv/canopy place. In 18 years this handle has broken twice.

I also, at one time, screwed a padlock hasp to the pickup bed and tailgate, so it possible to lock that closed.

When one of the hinges on the Wildernest rusted through, I tried to remove it, but couldn't get several of the screws out. Replacing this hinges with stainless steel ones before anything rusts or seizes would be a good idea.

My fiberglass rods did not have protective metal ends (mine was a 1988 model), but I never had problems with splitting.

I wish I had put more effort into replacing the bulb seal. However, in Seattle winters, condensation inside the lid was a more of a problem than leakage past the seal.

paulj

[Nonprophet]

Dave,

On my rear window the glass does not go all the way into the lower extrusion. I did have to drill through both layers of the lower extrusion to pass stainless screw all the way through from the inside--the Snugtop t-handle has threaded posts built into the handle housing, and you have to widen the holes a little to allow for the threaded posts, and then use SS screws washers, and lock washers attached from the inside threaded into the posts. I'll try and take a few pics so you can see what I mean.

On the stays, I should have clarified that there are 2 stays with metal tips for the tent, and one fiberglass rod for the rear window/screen. Mine seem to be in good shape.

On the gelcoat, I've never had much luck in matching gelcoat colors on boats--it looks easy but it never is, at least not for me! Mine is a little dirty but still in pretty good shape as it was stored in a garage--still there are some rust stains from the hinges and the finish is a little dull. I'm going to put my DA sander on it with a buffing pad and see if I can't buff it out. If I'm still not happy with that, I'll probably just get a quart of self-leveling (i.e. no brush marks) fiberglass paint from West Marine and just repaint it white. My Taco is white too, so it would be nice if the colors were close.......

Paul,

Yep the bulb seal is important, but I have the same problem with condensation--my matress, cover, curtains, etc get and stay damp if stored in the lid this time of year. I can just take them out and store them, but I really don't want the tent to get wet/damp either, and being able to just take off without a lot of prep time is one of the great things about a "Nest. So, I'm thinking that I'm going to Home Depot and pick up some rubber-backed indoor/outdoor carpeting and glue that down under the mattress (the underside of the roof/lid) My thought is that condensation forms on smooth surfaces like glass, fiberglass, etc. when the outside temperatures are warmer/cooler than the inside temperatures. I think the rubber-backed carpeting will act like an insulator (kind of like a neoprene/foam "coolie cup" for you beer, and that should stop or at least reduce the condensation. It should also make it a bit more comfortable moving around on the lid/mattress.


NP

[erod]

Great thread! Helpful information...I love my wildernest but breaking parts is always a concern due to limited availability. I would love to see some pics of any members wildernests (or flip-pacs) popped with their camp set up. I don't have the kitchen organizer or the clothes hammock but would love to see them in action! I have camped a bunch this winter in ID in mine and it worked great...only problem is when you have to put it down all the moisture, snow etc. is caught up inside and drying it out can be an issue, especially when it snow numerous days in a row! Spring is here though and the sun is shining so I have been able to camp twice this week! Anyway, been away from the forum for a while so i was stoked to see this thread. Cheers

[grambo71]

Thanks for the useful information. I've had an '89 'nest for three years and love it. Some of my hinges are rusted out- so I'm going to replace them with the stainless steel ones as described by Nonprophet above. Concerning the moisture buildup below the mattress or leaking in past the bulb seal, one solution I use is to place a plastic fitted sheet on the underside of the mattress so that it wraps around the top/corners. It keeps the mattress dry. I've decided to get rid of the curtains, as I never really used them anyway.

Nonprophet- Did you also replace the hex screws? Did you apply silicone or anything when replacing the hinges/screws? I'm assuming that you used the same drilled holes. Not that Reno gets nearly as much precip as Eugene. Ahhhh, the beautiful McKenzie! Anyhow, spring is here and happy nesting folks!
-g

[erod]

Hey everyone...how bout' some pics? I have been slacking too and have a bunch of new ones to get up as well...this thread has been very helpful...nonprophet, could you post the owners manual pdf? I would love to check it out...also some pics of your improvements would be awesome. I am getting ready to restore some aspects of mine this summer...once it stops snowing this spring...Cheers!

[erod]

One other thing...I got the back door with my WN, anyone have photos or suggestions of how to rig this thing up? Velcrow seems logical to me but...thanks again.

[DaveInDenver]

Yes, the zipper door will have a strip of velcro sewn on it. When it was new the 'Nest would have come with a roll of the adhesive-backed fuzzy side that mates with it. The fabric door itself should have the hook part and so you need to stick on the fuzzy part on the 'Nest and along the edges of the tailgate. There is no way to really buy just the fuzzy part, so just go to the hardware store and buy a roll of velcro and you'll be left with half of it. I get the 25' rolls, does anyone need about 35' of the hook side? I'll snap some photos tomorrow, if that would help.

[erod]

Dave, thanks for the info, if you get a chance could you post a pic or two. Thanks again!

[DaveInDenver]

Got a few snapped. Sorry about the quality, my truck is in-op at the moment, in the middle of the engine rebuild. Crossing fingers, the target date for restart is 5/1 and hopefully it's fully running not long after...

Anyway, one photo shows where I routed the fuzzy part of the velcro. This runs along the inside of the back window and along the tab at the edge of the tailgate. There is a closer detail (yes, my tabs are beat silly). The final interior shot is the hook part of the velcro on the door itself. Added a shot of the door in place. Sorry about the watermarks, but I needed to add something to my photos, I've noticed my 'Nest shots on other websites and I don't remember anyone asking me to use them...

[erod]

Dave, awesome pics. I really like your set up...thanks a lot for the photos...Good luck with the rebuild and looking forward to more pics in the future. Cheers!

[Nonprophet]

Many thanks to those who helped with my Yakima installation! :victory:

I finally got around to taking some pics--see below.

The current setup works just fine for carrying my canoe--but I'm not real happy with the looks or limited functionality by having the crossbars so short on the passenger side (in order to leave enough space between the crossbar ends and the Wildernest canopy windows when the top is open).

I came up with a good solution though. I took my racks to a local welder, and I'm having him weld threaded bosses/inserts into the ends of the Yakima crossboars on the passenger side. Then I bought 1 1/4 galvi pipe, and had him cut two 8" pieces (to match the overhang of the crossbars on the driver's side). He's going to weld some threaded stainless stock to the ends of the "extenders", and then paint everything black. That way, when I'm using the rack with the Wildernest closed I just screw in the "extenders", and it all looks even (and I can still carry a few sheets of 4x8 plywood up there like I used to). When I need to open the WN top, all I do is unscrew the "extenders" and I'm good to go! Total cost: $30. As soon as I get the extenders fabbed and installed, I'll take some pics if anyone is interested.......

Also, forgot to mention that if you replace your bulb seal with the piece I mentioned at the start of this thread, add another 5' or so to your order as the seal works just great on the rear window/tailgate seal of the WN.



Camp on!!


NP

[Nonprophet]

Nonprophet- Did you also replace the hex screws? Did you apply silicone or anything when replacing the hinges/screws? I'm assuming that you used the same drilled holes. Not that Reno gets nearly as much precip as Eugene. Ahhhh, the beautiful McKenzie! Anyhow, spring is here and happy nesting folks!
-g

Grambo,

My new hinges haven't arrived yet! They sent the wrong one's the first time. I must admit that now that I've looked a little closer at the hinges (you have to loosed them when you replace the bulb seal) some of the screws/nuts on the lower halves of the hinges (the front and very rear hinges) look like they will be a big PITA to get to. I'm a big believer in the "if it ain't broke--don't fix it" mantra, and so I'm going to leave the hinges alone for the time being. I did mask them and paint them with a silver Rustoleum, and that should work for awhile.

If you do swap your hinges, DEFINITELY silicone the heck out of both the hinges, and the screws/holes as they would certainly be a point of water entry......



NP

[erod]

NP, nice work on the rack...looks sweet. good idea with the extended bars too...any pics of your camp set up? i would love to see the clothes/gear hammock and the kitchen organizer. also, any luck with the owners manual pdf? it would be cool to check that out too. thanks again in advance and keep the pics coming. cheers!

[Nonprophet]

Good to see you post!

A couple of questions (or comments).

The T-handle, I get them from Suburban Topper here in Denver, they usually get about $10 since I pay cash and tell them I don't need a receipt. Anyway, I just rivet them on, but my holes are getting wallowed out and have been trying to come up with a better way to attach a handle. You say you drilled out the holes and I can dig that, but I'm trying to picture it. Did you drill all the way through? The flip-up door design may have changed on the later models (there was about a year at the end of production that they did change a lot of stuff). Mine is 1992 production and the back door on this one is similar to others I've owned and seen in that if you were to try to drill through, you'd hit the back window glass. I found that out the hard way on my first 'Nest, I shattered the glass drilling out a rivet. So I'd just say that WilderNests are like any other older topper in that they used whatever parts they could find and there are difference in all of them.


Hey Dave,

I finally got around to taking some pics of my WN tailgate lock for ya--see attached. I took a side shot of the profile of my lower extrusion so you can see if it's similar to mine. Since installation the new t-handle has been working great!!


NP

[DaveInDenver]

Yeah, your back window looks very similar to mine. I need to get some shots of what I've got going, I need to figure out a way to reinforce things. I starting to think my back window will come out, I broke the 3 rivets that hold the lower lift spring bracket and haven't come up with an easy fix. Previously I've drilled out all 100 billion of the rivets out around the frame, got it our and did a permanent fix.

BTW, Yak is looking good!

[Kermit]

Finally part of the WN club.

Thanks for the info on the bulb seal, needs replacing.

Any info on replacing the tent itself. I really don't know how old mine is. It already has a bunch of patches. I figured it will make it this season. Then this winter, I am going to redo the whole thing.

Would like to find someone to sew me a new tent with modern material. Maybe put another large screen in too.

The fibeglaas is in good shape, but the rear of the shell is spread a bit, so much the latch wont catch the side extrusion. I want to pop out the screens then tie a ratching tie down between the pillars to pull the sides in, then bolt the shell to the bed of the truck. I fear I will damge the fiberglass.

The left side pillar was broken at the base of the shell, but, the old owner fabbed up a some angle iron and bolted it through the pillar then along the length of the shell...very srong fix, but, it is interfering with bolting it to the bed of my Tacoma. I have clamps, but would like to use bolts. I may redo this with either flat steel or aluminum.

I'll take some detailed pictures in the morning.

Oh yeah...the tent smells like an old boat...and the best way to rid this smell? We already tried bleach water.

[DaveInDenver]

Finally part of the WN club.
Welcome!


Any info on replacing the tent itself. I really don't know how old mine is. It already has a bunch of patches. I figured it will make it this season. Then this winter, I am going to redo the whole thing.

Would like to find someone to sew me a new tent with modern material. Maybe put another large screen in too.

There isn't a source (yet) for replacement canvas. My best lead is to take the old one to a boat canvas shop, the ones who sew covers for them. Also there are a few places that still make circus and big event tents, that is another option. In most cases they wanted the old one as a pattern and it's likely that they'd have to at least rip out all the seams. Yours sounds pretty tired, so that's probably not much of a problem. People don't realize that the fabric is more than just heavy nylon, but has a urethane coating on the inside that keeps it waterproof. That coating doesn't take a lot of abuse to ruin (see below).

The fibeglaas is in good shape, but the rear of the shell is spread a bit, so much the latch wont catch the side extrusion. I want to pop out the screens then tie a ratching tie down between the pillars to pull the sides in, then bolt the shell to the bed of the truck. I fear I will damge the fiberglass.
That's probably mostly because of the installation. When the 'Nest is closed, there are two big springs that are loaded, one in front and one in back. There is structural reinforcement moulded into the shell, but since the top flips over, there's not much to keep the sides solidly connected. Oh, those springs are there to sort of help you open it, but mostly to keep the top from slamming shut when you close it. They are important. The back one is particularly bad because there's a huge void in the shell where the back window is. So as a result you need to make sure to pull the sides in a bit when you locate and drill (you did drill and use bolts to mount it right?) your holes. It will spread the sides of your box a little, so there's something of an art and balancing act to get it right, close enough that the gap on the 'Nest is even and seals, not so snug that the box walls are spread. There is a visibly widen from bottom to top (like a wedge) gap when you look at my passenger's side box-to-tailgate. My guess is you need to bring in the sides a bit. I do that when I mount a 'Nest by popping out the screens and using either a long bar clamp or a ratcheting strap, just like I think you are describing. It helps to undo the two latches and let the top prop up a little, this takes most of the tension off the springs and then you don't need much force to get the gap right. Then drill and bolt 'er down!


The left side pillar was broken at the base of the shell, but, the old owner fabbed up a some angle iron and bolted it through the pillar then along the length of the shell...very srong fix, but, it is interfering with bolting it to the bed of my Tacoma. I have clamps, but would like to use bolts. I may redo this with either flat steel or aluminum.

I'll take some detailed pictures in the morning.

If I understand it, that is actually probably not uncommon. There is a lot of steel moulded in the shell and when water finds its way inside, that steel (and wood for that matter) rot and rust. He probably had a break and that fixed it. I would have cut back the fiberglass, but with the steel parts that is much harder to do than with the wood sections.


Oh yeah...the tent smells like an old boat...and the best way to rid this smell? We already tried bleach water.
That is VERY common with 'Nests. They get closed when wet and mold starts. Replacement is the best way... This is incidently the #1 thing that ruins 'Nests. That mold starts in the nylon, which stains it and makes it smell. But worse, the mold causes the urethane coating to crack and peel from the nylon, which quite effectively ruins the fabric. Generally once you seam seal the fabric, it is very waterproof. You'll get condensation, but the tent itself will not leak. You hear it all the time where people throw a tarp over their leaking 'Nest and 92% of the time their coating has gone to the great RV heaven and the other 8% is because their seam need to be resealed (or maybe even sealed, my current 'Nest never got its original seam seal, it was almost pristine when I bought it).

[Kermit]

Thank you Dave.

Exactly what I was looking for.

[Nonprophet]

Finally part of the WN club.


The fibeglaas is in good shape, but the rear of the shell is spread a bit, so much the latch wont catch the side extrusion. I want to pop out the screens then tie a ratching tie down between the pillars to pull the sides in, then bolt the shell to the bed of the truck. I fear I will damge the fiberglass.

Hey Kermit,

I have the same problem with mine--and mine is a '95, one of that last ones they made. I use clamps on mine instead of bolts as I think good clamps hold just fine, and I take my WN off and on fairly regularly (I built a rack/stand for it--I just backup to the stand, lift up the corners of the WN, slide 4 8' lengths of 1" PVC pipe between the 'nest and my truck rails, and then roll the 'nest right off onto the rack. As you know, the 'nests are pretty heavy, but this way I can take it on and off by myself...).

Anyway, I have the same spreading problem, I just use a 6' pipe clamp (the clamps are vinyl-coated so they won't scratch the shell) on the outside bottom edges of the shell to draw it in tight (with the rear window open), then I tighten down the rear clamps and I'm good to go.


Oh yeah...the tent smells like an old boat...and the best way to rid this smell? We already tried bleach water.

I spend a fair amount of time around boats (I'm a captain) and I've found that the best product for removing odors from fabric/foam rubber is Fabreeze. You can get it at your grocery store.


NP

[DaveInDenver]

I can tell you with some certainty that those aluminum jaw clamps are a bad idea for the WilderNest. I got a 'Nest cheap once from a guy who had his break. This was the driver's side and it gave way with the 'Nest open and him in the bed. It did not collapse, but the fiberglass had been cracking and finally crumbled. The clamp dug into the plywood, which is why I cut and replaced the pieces. He was using 2 clamps on each side.

I attached a picture after I started cleaning up the broken section of the rail and cutting into the wood reinforcement. I epoxied in a new piece of plywood and recoated the fiberglass. There are a couple of photos of the repair in process. I ended up using a belt sander to level the mounting surface and a random orbital sander to shape the top side.

I personally use three 3/8" bolts on each side, a 8" or so long piece of flat steel drilled in the middle as a big washer under the bed rail and a climbing bolt hanger as a washer on top.

BTW, I ended up with pretty much the same method for removal as NP. I use 72" Yakima bars as rollers and have a couple of eye bolts screwed into the ceiling of my garage. I have a couple of pieces of 2" webbing that work as slings and I have a block-n-tackle to get it up and off the bed and drive out from under the camper.

[Kermit]

Hey Kermit,
I spend a fair amount of time around boats (I'm a captain) and I've found that the best product for removing odors from fabric/foam rubber is Fabreeze. You can get it at your grocery store.


I have a bottle of that already, getting ready to do that today.

Thanks.

Here is picture of the angle iron fix the previous owner did, effective, but, his bolt holes miss my bed rail. So I may use a a peice of flat steel or aluminum in conjunction with the angle iron/aluminum and 'glass the flat rail in. I really don't care about looks though. If you click on the picture, it will show photos of the fix.

http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/3930/2898078800093498191S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2898078800093498191QYiAcq)

The spread..

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/5366/2835925690093498191S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2835925690093498191SUgYVk)

I also found these adjustable poles at an army surplus store for only $5 a piece.

http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/3751/2796133030093498191S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2796133030093498191Bczzgk) http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/3312/2380271880093498191S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2380271880093498191lVACgJ)

[erod]

Dave, as always, a wealth of knowledge. It seems like you could start a small buisiness repairing these things and do pretty well with all your experience. We appreciate the advice. This has been a helpful thread and I have much too add (questions that is) however I am limited by what I can post since I am on a work computer with none of my photos (crucial to this discussion)...soon enough. Replacing the tent is an interesting idea..."seams" like a lot of work and likely a lot of money to have someone do it custom...Have you replaced the black zippered fabbric that supports the tent when folded? It appears like mine has been replaced with screws and a few are starting to come loose...not a big deal but something to keep an eye on...anyway, thanks again guys. Kermit, still haven't been able to check out yours pics due to lack of software on this machine but would be really stoked to see a rebuild of a wildernest thread! cheers!

[erod]

Looks like I wasn't typing fast enough...:sombrero:

[erod]

Kermit, finally saw the photos once you attached them to a post...looks like its in pretty good shape...especially the exterior! I didn't have too much of a spreading problem when I installed mine...there is a minor spread off the bed rails of the truck but too late now since its already bolted on, but the door closes just fine with a little gap when locked but no biggie. Thoses poles are sweet, I have some I use to set a tarp up coming off the back of my truck when camping but (as Dave said in an earlier thread) they aren't needed...the canopy holds up to 1000lbs so I don't even bother...seems like they may even fall out if its windy or the canopy is moving around. Anyway, I already overcooked one batch of pasta going back and forth from this thread...its worth it though. Cheers!

[Kermit]

I fixed most of the spread, enough to get it to latch. Everything is bolted down with cadmium coated grade 8 bolts.

Well....I got the "old boat" smell out. Now how do I get rid of the "FeBreze" smell?:p

A friend knows a guy who can redo the marine coat on the shell, which really isn't too bad. I may also color match it this winter when I do the total rebuild.

It was quite windy today, those poles really helped keep the truck stable, enough for me to take an afternoon nap in there. :)

[Nonprophet]

I also found these adjustable poles at an army surplus store for only $5 a piece.


Those are great poles! I'll have to check out my local Army/Navy store and see if they have some. My stock WN poles are in good shape, but the only thing that sets the height on each pole is a ring clamp--kinda cheesy if you ask me......

My next project is getting someone to make me a zippered cover out of mosquito netting that I can put on the WN lid when open and let hang down to the ground crreating a "bug-free room" under the lid when open. There's room for two people/chairs under there, and when the bugs are bad at least you'd still have an outside "room" to sit in without getting eaten alive. :snorkel:

I'm heading up to Alaska this summer, so I think it will really come in handy......I might even rig a pole and extend the mosquito netting room out a little bit.


NP

[Kermit]

I was at Sportsman's Warehouse today buying a new sleeping pad for the WN.

I also found this rebuild kit for the fiberglass poles for under $7.00. It had steel ends that fit perfectly into the tent's upright holes. The new poles are the same diameter as the old ones, and since the ends are steel rather than the aluminum ones, they "should" take more abuse.

http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/4324/2850609740093498191S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2850609740093498191gZCrwW) http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/3184/2732281950093498191S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2732281950093498191fhvngC) http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/3676/2895517450093498191S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2895517450093498191YCQdwW)

[Kermit]

Those cheap $5 adjustable poles didn't last long...They fell apart the second night.

I am going to have to make my own heavy duty ones.

We did run into another couple this past weekend with a full size Wildernest on the their 1976 Ford 250 Ranger....very cool. That was the exact truck my dad had when I was growing up. Same color too, rootbeer brown.

I always wanted to get one of those and restore it like my dad's.

[DaveInDenver]

Those cheap $5 adjustable poles didn't last long...They fell apart the second night.

I am going to have to make my own heavy duty ones.

What broke on them? Maybe it was the poles and the ends made it through. I've had to fix the ends on my poles, but the poles themselves have been tough enough. There is a place here in Denver called Plasticare that sells rod stock and it's very good stuff. But the ends have been a tougher thing to replace. I epoxy on a sleeve (or the broken tip part) and back drill the pole. I then epoxy in a piece of rod stock, trim and smooth it. I once looked into having those end caps made, even made up a AutoCAD drawing to have them quoted. To make it cost effective I had to have 1000 made up and they were still going to cost a couple of dollars each! I ended up just turning a new one, which would be too expensive to do, even piece wise.

[Kermit]

Judging by your reply, you are thinking of the bows, (the new ones I made are working fine). I am talking about the stabilizing poles for the camper top/sleeping shell.

The friction plate cut a groove into the pole, wedging itself on the pole. The clip holding the friction plate to the outer pole came apart too. The ends were fine.

I tend to flop about when I sleep, so the suspension of the truck flexes, putting pressure on the poles.

I have some ideas rollling around in my head for some stout poles. Maybe something like a tempary floor joice jacks they use in housing. Only a mini version.


http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/3751/2796133030093498191S425x425Q85.jpghttp://www.advancescaffold.com/gifs/adjustable-Screw-Jacks.jpg

[DaveInDenver]

Oh, I get it. I think you might have put too much force on those outrigger poles. They should not be holding up any weight, they just keep the rocking minimized. The bolted brackets on the topper are not all that strong and you can pull them out of the fiberglass, not to mention the poles breaking. I leave a couple of inches between the hose clamp and bottom section, but your poles work a little different than the original ones. The stock poles have a hose clamp that you snug down on the upper section, which is the travel stop when it hits the lower section. I let the poles move up and down, just enough that no one gets seasick. I'd bet that those original poles would work just fine if you replace the jam mechanism with a hose clamp. IIRC, you need to have force on the pole for the jamming plate to work, right? When I set up my 'Nest, the poles can compress 3" or so before the clamp touches the bottom section. You probably woke up to find the poles had sunk into the ground, too? That's another sign that your poles were too long, since they got driven down.

[Nonprophet]

Well, as I mentioned earlier in this thread I finally got my Yakima rack mounted to my WN, but I didn't like the way the racks looked with the offset needed on the passenger side to keep the racks on the WN when opened without punching through the widows. I also like as long a crossbar as possible to carry lumber, two kayaks, etc. on the racks.

So I decided to make some extenders that would give me the crossbar length I need, but could be easily removed when opening up my 'nest.

I took them to a welder, but he wound up taking forever, so I just did it myself.

The first pic is what the racks look like without extenders,

The second pic is what they look like with them,

The 3rd pic is a closeup of the extenders.


The OD on the Yakima crossbars is 1 1/16" (with the vinyl coating), so I got some 1" galvi pipe and cut it to length (about 13" is what I needed). In order to attach them to the Yakima bars, I got some 13/16" x10" galvi nipples from the hardware store, and pounded them into the 1" galvi extenders. The ID of the 1" galvi is about 3/4", and so the 13/16" OD galvi nipples fits nice an tight inside--I just used wood blocks and a hammer to pound them into the 1" extensions. The extension "sleeves" are about 5" long which gives me more than enough strength. Once the extenders were inserted into the Yakima crossbars I drilled a hole sideways through both sides, and then used a 1/4" stainless steel clevis pin and ring to hold it in place. Then I spray-painted the extenders black, and voila!:sombrero:

So now, when I want to open the WN, all I do is pull the pins, pull the extenders, out, and open er up.....

Here's some pics of the extenders:

[Kermit]

Dave,

Mine didn't come with the original poles.

Thanks for the advice, I'll rig up the new poles with hose clamps, and use them like you instructed. Maybe install a spring in the poles so they can "flex"

[grambo71]

My WN fabric is pretty tired, and unfortunately the original waterproofing has cracked and leaks when it rains. I'm thinking of trying a product called Canvak on it: http://www.cabelas.com/information/CampingFoodPrep/Canvak.html. Has anyone tried this or have any thoughts? I know it's just water resistant, but it would be better than what I've got. I don't think it's good to use on nylon, and I can't remember if the WN fabric is cotton canvas or some sort of nylon.

[DaveInDenver]

The material is a heavy nylon and the old coating was urethane. Yeah, once the waterproofing goes, the material is pretty much useless. You could use the old tent as a pattern to have a new one sewn, but that would be pretty pricey. Another option would be to throw a tarp over the top, which would work with the downside being it will get pretty steamy inside.

[snowgeek]

Hey all,

I've posted a pdf of the Wildernest manual on my webpage (too big to post on this forum...):

http://www.warnercnr.colostate.edu/~deems/

Hope that's useful!

[outdoordrea]

Hey all,

I've posted a pdf of the Wildernest manual on my webpage (too big to post on this forum...):

http://www.warnercnr.colostate.edu/~deems/

Hope that's useful!

I'd love to get a copy, but your site tells me I don't have permissions to read that page.

[paulj]

Since I never got the seams of my WilderNest fully sealed, I ended up depending on a poly tarp for waterproofness, especially during extended rains. I don't recall for sure what size I used, but I think it was 9x16. It extended beyond the roof by about a foot on all sides. As such it did not interfer with ventillation from either the side windows or the peak vents. So I didn't notice any changed in interior condensation or 'steaminess'.

To make it easier to handle, I tied 9' long bamboo poles to two sides. With those, I could stand on the tailgate and lift the tarp over the open tent. I held the tarp down with lines from the poles to points under the pickup bed sides.

For travel, I rolled the tarp up, poles and all, and tied the bundle to the roof rack.

It wasn't a perfect solution, but it worked.

paulj

[adrenaline503]

Just ordered the bulb seal and SS hinges today. Thanks for making it so easy.

[outdoordrea]

My Wildernest's back door isn't closing (there's a gap of close to an inch on the driver's side, and a little less on the passenger side) and I'm wondering how far back does the nest need to sit on the truck bed? Right now, it's about 1/4" overhanging towards the cab, so I'm thinking it could come back almost an inch. Is this normal? I'm using it on a 2002 Toyota Tacoma X-Cab.

Link to pics.
(http://picasaweb.google.com/outdoordrea/Wildernest). I can't figure out how to post them here.

Also, I want to bolt her down for the long haul, and I, too, have some spread in the back. What (and where), specifically, should I use to pull in the sides before bolting? I understand there is the need to make sure the door closes before the final drilling...

Thanks in advance,
Drea

[DaveInDenver]

My Wildernest's back door isn't closing (there's a gap of close to an inch on the driver's side, and a little less on the passenger side) and I'm wondering how far back does the nest need to sit on the truck bed? Right now, it's about 1/4" overhanging towards the cab, so I'm thinking it could come back almost an inch. Is this normal? I'm using it on a 2002 Toyota Tacoma X-Cab.
On a Taco the 'Nest should just about perfect. You do have to jockey front to back to get the right location, but on my truck (our beds are the same dimension and basically the same shape) the front lip of the 'Nest is just about even with the front edge of the bed, maybe a 1/16" of the bottom is leading the bed. Most of the front mounting surface sits inside of the front bed wall. Does that make sense? That puts the door in right about the perfect spot in the back and you only need to tweak the bottom edge of the bottom of the door just a bit. Photos will help and I'll try to get those for you this weekend.


Also, I want to bolt her down for the long haul, and I, too, have some spread in the back. What (and where), specifically, should I use to pull in the sides before bolting? I understand there is the need to make sure the door closes before the final drilling...
The way I pull them together is to take the screens out of the side windows and use a ratcheting strap laced through the windows and around the back to slowly pull the side together, drill and bolt. When you release the strap the side of your bed will bow out, so don't squeeze the 'Nest too tight. You only need the sides to be close enough to hold the door closed. You can also use a 6' bar clamp or one of those orange Pony clamps that use iron pipe. Use a piece of plywood or cardboard under the bar clamp saddles and squeeze the sides of the kicked out section together. I honestly find the ratcheting strap to be the easiest and most precise. It also gets in the way less when you're crawling around trying to bolt things down and you can almost close the door to check alignment.

[outdoordrea]

On a Taco the 'Nest should just about perfect. You do have to jockey front to back to get the right location, but on my truck (our beds are the same dimension and basically the same shape) the front lip of the 'Nest is just about even with the front edge of the bed, maybe a 1/16" of the bottom is leading the bed. Most of the front mounting surface sits inside of the front bed wall. Does that make sense? That puts the door in right about the perfect spot in the back and you only need to tweak the bottom edge of the bottom of the door just a bit. Photos will help and I'll try to get those for you this weekend.

http://lh4.google.com/outdoordrea/R64NWt2vxYI/AAAAAAAAAm8/f_CmAZrqG3w/s144/IMG_0074.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/outdoordrea/Wildernest/photo#5165080506558039426)http://lh4.google.com/outdoordrea/R64NZt2vxZI/AAAAAAAAAnE/Eyq1T924_Rw/s144/IMG_0075.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/outdoordrea/Wildernest/photo#5165080558097646994)http://lh6.google.com/outdoordrea/R64NqN2vxdI/AAAAAAAAAnk/VtKxHubR22w/s144/IMG_0073.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/outdoordrea/Wildernest/photo#5165080841565488594)

[DaveInDenver]

Good pictures! Looks pretty close to where mine sits, maybe forward just a very little bit, not much though. Just talking maybe 1/4" or 3/16" back. The key to getting the back window to close is to bend that tab on the bottom of the back door, the wide black part where the rubber seal slides in. Best way I've found is to take two heavy aluminum pieces of flat material, say about 2" wide and thick enough not to bend much, say maybe 1/4" at least. Sandwich the tab part between them with as many C-clamps as you have. I have about 6 of them. Then /carefully/ bend that aluminum away from the tailgate until the door closes. The door will sit inside the frame and that aluminum tab with the rubber will just rub the tailgate. You have to be careful and work slowly because if you tweak the door too much the back glass can shatter (guess how I know that). Just work back and forth along the door, working the bend a little at a time. Might take you an hour, so be patient. Mine is probably 145 degree between the window and tab. Again, photos will help and hopefully I'll get home from work before dark. If you can hang loose for a couple more days, I WILL take a few by Monday. Promise. This weekend is super busy right now here at work.

[adrenaline503]

I have had to trim that metal "flap" on the bottom to clear my Nissan tailgate. I plan to remove the whole thing to achieve the best position. I looked at an older model Toyota and it appears that those tailgates are more angular than rounded styles found today. If this make no sense I will take some pictures when I get home.

[outdoordrea]

Next question is about the 8" x 2" pieces of metal (steel?) for support between the shell and the truck rail (for bolting on purposes). How far apart would you propose that the two bolt holes be from each other and the front and back of the truck bed? I have some 3/8" bolts with washers and locking nuts that are 2-3/4" long. Are these sufficient?

This is going to be fun.

[outdoordrea]

I have had to trim that metal "flap" on the bottom to clear my Nissan tailgate.

Are you talking about the metal flange at the bottom of the door (the piece where the rubber flap is attached in my photos)? How much did you trim it? And what did you use to trim it?

[snowgeek]

Quote:
Originally Posted by snowgeek
Hey all,

I've posted a pdf of the Wildernest manual on my webpage (too big to post on this forum...):

http://www.warnercnr.colostate.edu/~deems/

Hope that's useful!

I'd love to get a copy, but your site tells me I don't have permissions to read that page.
Reply With Quote

sorry, changed my website and didn't re-post here.
new link to manual:
http://staff.washington.edu/deems/WildernestBrochure.pdf (http://staff.washington.edu/deems/WildernestBrochure.pdf)

hope that works...

[outdoordrea]

sorry, changed my website and didn't re-post here.
new link to manual:
http://staff.washington.edu/deems/WildernestBrochure.pdf (http://staff.washington.edu/deems/WildernestBrochure.pdf)

hope that works...

Sweet! Thanks so much!

[outdoordrea]

OK. So I got my Nest bolted onto my truck and the door closes much easier. Next step is to "bend the metal flange" for a tighter seal. Thanks all!

[outdoordrea]

I just opened up my Wildernest tent this morning, and I realize that I'm missing several items (and the tent is in bad shape, too, but that's for another day):

the V shaped aluminum brackets are missing
The fiberglass wands for shaping the tent
the outrigger poles (the organizer is still there, however)

Can someone measure the V shaped aluminum brackets so that I can find something that will work in their place? Will someone else measure the fiberglass wands and give me an idea on how long they need to be? ***Never mind on the fiberglass wands, I found the answer in another post.

I think I'll need a whole new tent made, so that's my next hurdle...

Thanks so much!

[outdoordrea]

I ended up removing the bottom part of the rear window in order to bend the flange without breaking the glass. It was a bit of a bear getting the window reseated inside the rubber gasket, but in the end it turned out great.

[grambo71]

Hey folks, spring is here and I'm really looking forward to spending some more time in the 'nest. Only problem is that last time I closed the nest the other day, the rear assist spring broke.:mad: The top doesn't want to close without it!
Besides a custom machine shop, does anyone have any ideas on where to get one? Nonprophet and DaveInDenver seem quite knowledgeable- hopefully they've got an answer. Anyone else???
Also, not sure if anyone has seen this recently: http://www.wildernestcamper.com/

[DaveInDenver]

Those torsion springs break sometimes. It happened to me a few years ago once, just the way it is with springs. You can reduce the chance by lightly lubricating the sleeves that the springs ride in. If those bind up, the spring doesn't move easily and you can break the legs off. But sometimes they just fatigue and break, just the nature of things mechanical.

If you can find a custom spring shop where you live, they can be made up pretty easily since they are not anything unique or special. It would help if you could the old in as a template for dimensions and all that. It's important to notice that the front and rear springs are not the same.

I don't have my notebook here at work, but I want to say the place here in Denver that I had them made is AAA Coil Spring. I'll check to see what contact info I wrote down and get back to you. But I just opened the yellow pages and started calling places. Try custom springs shops, places that make custom car springs, etc. For example, there is a place here in town called Denver Spring and Suspension, they make custom coil and leaf springs, places like that might be able to do it.

[DaveInDenver]

FWIW, the place that has made them here in Denver is:

AAAA Specialty, Inc. (in the Yellow Pages, they seem to now be AAAA Coil Spring Manufacturing, Inc.)
3030 Huron St.
Denver, CO 80202
303-296-1288

It cost about $130 to have 3 sets made.

I should note that they do not stock WilderNest parts, they are custom spring manufacturer who made extra sets from the old ones as patterns. So you can't call them to order parts. But I could look into having some spares made from my last set of springs and let you know what it would cost.

[grambo71]

DaveInDenver,
Thanks for the great information as usual. I was quoted about $120 to make one spring here in Reno (the "how bad do you need this?" kind of price)!. That sounds like a lot more than $130 for 3 sets! Do you have a spare set that you could take to them to use as a pattern? As I said, the top doesn't quite want to close properly now and I'm a bit nervous driving it around for fear of having the top swing open suddenly on the road.
If I correctly understand what you're offering, I would be very grateful if you could get the shop you used at that price to manufacture a replacement for the broken rear one and a spare set just in case they break again in the future. I could call them and take care of payment. My 'nest is a 1989 model- not sure if spring dimensions could have changed from earlier to later years? If that's a possibility, I could send in both my springs and have replacements made.
As I said, if you could look into it, I'd be eternally thankful!!!

[bowserbloom]

I have a wildernest that fits my toyota 1992 short bed truck. I am missing the back door. Is there a pre existing door from another shell that will fit? thanks.