It Starts (22R-E Rebuild)

[DaveInDenver]

My engine bay is stripped naked in preparation for the rebuild. I left the power steering and A/C (moved to the sides, out of the way, but still there), but most everything else connected to the engine is now in boxes. Not sure exactly /what/ the rebuild will be, most likely an aftermarket head of some kind and a rebuild of the short block. Have to see about all that, but this is the results of 2 days with wrenches, a roll of duct tape and a Sharpie...

Edit to add: Used about 20 Zip-Loc baggies to organize the bolts and hardware. Everything is labeled (the duct tape and Sharpie) and snapped some photos. Hope it's enough not to be confusing on reassembly.

[OnlyNaTaco]

If you actually going to do a complete rebuild id take the engine completely out. It will be much easier to work on and you can replace more things, like the clutch. To take those out completely is not much work at all.

Be ready to go to the dealer and get replacement bolts, many times the bolts strip out, be careful bolting stuff to the head, its aluminum so its very easy to strip out the threads, ive done it many times.

I would recommend putting all new bolts when your putting it back togther.

good luck

[kcowyo]

:lurk:

[Grim Reaper]

You are doing that the hard way by stripping it down in the bay.

The fastest way to get that out is drop the power steering pump and A/C. pull the passenger side kick panel and unplug the ECU and the other harness and pull that harness back through the fire wall. Unplug the fuel pump relay, injector ballast and other connections in that area. Lay the harness on the plenum. The fuel lines can be disconnected right at the passenger side frame rail. Pull it as a unit. The plenum can be pulled with the harness , fuel lines and rail as a unit once its on the stand. Makes assembly MUCH easier.

Install is the reverse. It is ton easier to plumb an wire on the stand and that’s how Toyota did it as well.
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2125&d=1148927463

[AxleIke]

I know i'm a new guy, but just my .02.

Replace the clutch. I think in the end you'll be happy, since, with the engine out, it is incredibly easy.

Not saying you'd regret it terribly if you don't, but it will just increase the amount of time before you have to pull big pieces out again.


Ike

[devinsixtyseven]

:lurk: x2! However you end up doing it, you definately went the right way with the tape, ziplocs and sharpie!

What machine shop are you using?

[gjackson]

:lurk: x3!

cheers

[cell4soul]

Depending on what you will use the vehicle for, this could be a great way to go with that 22R motor. It is a propane conversion kit that is very inexpensive. Propane would seem to have a lot of advantages in the off road world. Here is the websight:

www.gotpropane.com

It's worth reading if nothing else. Good luck with the build of old reliable.

Grerrit

[Grim Reaper]

Thinking about using Engnbldr's head. The short block is probably Gunn Automotive, although I haven't completely decided.
Ted at Engnbldr is a great guy and really knows this motor. I honestly question if I shouldn't have just bought his head rather then have mine worked. It was not much more. Watch out for the $200 heads you see on Ebay. They are not a aloy like the factory units and they will not hold up as well. Ted sells the good ones.

I did buy his 286 cam and a few other parts. GET THE METAL BACKED TIMING CHAIN KIT. Ted's just has the backing on the diverside of the chain and thats the side the usually breaks. DOA has a kit that backs both guides for a little more.

[Grim Reaper]

This is not a bad guide for engine removal. Its for a Supra but the supra has most of the same connection in reasonably similar location.
http://supracentral.com/content.php?article.31

Make sure to get that crank bolt loose before pulling.

You will be leaving the transmission in because it would be a real booger to remove with a case on it so you can ignore most of the transmission related stuff. Take a ratchet strap and sling it under the bell housing to suport it if your sway bar is off. You will need to unbolt the starter. The truck has ECM in kick panel not the glove box. So adjust for that. Fuel lines are opposite side.


Ohhhhh Is your truck IFS? If so take the front bracket off that supports the diff. Loosen the bolts at the back so the diff sags. Don't need to remove it just let is sag. That will give you the clearance you need on the oil pan to get the engine off the transmission.

[kcowyo]

Just a heads up Dave - Ted is going to be out of commision for little bit here soon.

According to a post he made on another board, I guess he's getting a rebuild of his own via a triple bypass. He'll have family answering emails and fulfilling orders but if you have specific questions, they may have to wait for a bit.

Cheers and a speedy recovery to Engnbldr! :beer:

[pskhaat]

2l-t
22r-et

[Grim Reaper]

I thought about the 2L-TE as well. I live 30 minutes from Jarco. Between hassles with the Tag department, the shear amount of work to swap a right hand harness into a left hand vehicle, the extra cost and then the lack of easily found parts I decided to stick with the 22RE. It would take a lot of driving to make up that $1500-2000 more.

22R motors are so common parts are dirt cheap and everywhere. My last wheeling trip I drove 250 miles on the tank. Spent all day wheeling. drove home and was able to drive to work for two weeks and averaged 19.5 mpg. I am not real upset about that. If I can run a full tank on the hwy I get 23mpg. Its proving to be a economical vehicle.

[Grim Reaper]

Don't forget about the hidden bolt in front of the top timing gear in the oil well for the distributor.

Rent a pressure washer for the cleaning. It saves SO much time. Just watch the seals on the hafts and diff. Do a lube soon in case you manage to get some water in the ball joints or TRE's

On the clutch: Here in Atlanta we have a place called www.clutchman.com They CAME TO MY HOUSE turned the fly wheel in their truck (you need to have it off the motor) brought a decent Sachs clutch and cost less then I could buy the parts from Autozone. Might check to see if you have a company like that in Denver.

[Grim Reaper]

Notice #3 has more carbon. Probably wouldn't have been long before I'd have needed to do a rebuild anyway. I don't know why #3 is so much worse than the other three. All I can think is I screwed up a valve lash adjustment one time and burnt the valve (it's the exhaust). There is a ton of carbon in the piston, but the head gasket still looked OK.

Injector could cause that. Have them flow tested and serviced before putting them back in.

The o2 sensor looks for an average. When once cylinder is out of whack the ECM is going to adjust fuel to make what it see's at the O2 into its ideal mixture. So in your case three cylinders ran slightly lean to overcome the one cylinder being rich.

What gets ugly is a lean injector. I had that happen on my 89 Supra. One cylinder ran lean and the other 5 ran rich. I did end up burning both exhaust valves on that cylinder.

[Grim Reaper]

What did the short block run you?

[Grim Reaper]

That's not a bad price. I was expecting it to be considerably higher.

[Kermit]

Looking great Dave.

[Nonprophet]

Woo-hoo!:wings:

Congrats Dave! My first rebuild was a VW 1600 upright, and I had no clue really what I was doing (just had the "Idiots Guide to VW repair book") and I too was totally shocked when it actually fired up and ran! I sold that bus to a friend a few years later, he would up getting 187,000 on my rebuild--not bad for a VW!!!


NP

[Scott Brady]

Wow, a lot of work Dave, but certainly worth it! I look forward to your initial driving impressions. :wings:

[Erick Lihme]

Decide whether it is fuel/air mixture, or secondary electrical.

Clue: "Cold idle is OK, but once it warms up the engine does not seem happy. "

Hip shot: It fuel/air.

Check for vacum leaks.... the tube from AFM to throttle body,to injector gromets, injectors connections...

[Grim Reaper]

Check the EGR. If the hoses are wrong it may try to open the valve at idle. Start by just unplugging it at the valve and see if it clears.

Also look for vacuum leaks.

[wesel123]

I had the same problem on my 22-R rebuild. I found one disconnected vacume hose.

Gotta love Emision's Control:wings:

[Grim Reaper]

I skimmed through so you may have thought about this.

Cold start injector still running when warm?

Mine with the 268 cam has a decided lope. It seems to have calmed some with break in but still noticable when it leans out when warm.

[Erick Lihme]

. The AFM (Air Flow Meter) could be confusing the ECM because with the headers, high flow head and different cam the engine is sucking far more air than before and so the ECM might not know to increase fuel.

At least it could be contributing to the idle problem. From reading on the subject over the years, there is a fair chance you'll have to adjust it rich 3 teeth anyway. As you are doing, give it time to learn and see if there's an improvement, then consider adjusting the AFM. I don't know the mileage on it, and it may be good to consider changing the O2 sensor before adjusting the AFM.

Congrates on dialing in on that power band. Sounds like it's gonna be a great motor.

[Grim Reaper]

Yeah, I thought the cold start and that's certainly still an option. I had it cleaned with the other 4 injectors, so I'm going with the thought that it's probably not leaking. But if the ECU thinks the engine temp is low, it might trigger the cold start circuit. That is ultimately controlled by the ECT sensor.

I do think some of the roughness is related to a more aggressive cam, so I might be chasing to some extent something that can't be solved. Have to see how it does after a month or so. I've only got about 100 miles on it, so it's also still breaking in and the ECU is relearning the engine. I think we're on the same page diagnosis-wise here Grim.

Cold start runs independent of the ECM. The ECM could see the correct temp but the temp sender for the cold start could still have the injector on and not trip the light. Also it would be running open loop at idle so the ECM would ignore the O2 sensor.


http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=112 7M but the 22Re is the same set up and resistance values.

I have had to replace my cold start temp sender. It was giving me some run issues including rich idle and poor fuel economy. Never threw a light.