What tire size?

[magarnigel]

I'm just getting started on overlanding and am trying to find something out. I am wondering what tire size would be better, 33's or 35's? I don't play on the rocks at all but I do take water crossings where a little hight wouldn't be bad. What size do most prefer?

[magarnigel]

I guess I should be a little more specific. I have a an 03's tj with 4.0 and 5 speed.

[kc0tma]

There's really not a whole lot of difference between 33 and 35, the 35s will only give you an inch more clearance beneath your differentials. I'd recommend driving your rig stock for a while then deciding.

[magarnigel]

Thanks. I'm running 31's right now and haven't run into too many clearance problems but it's time for new tires and so I'm weighing the options. It's starting to seem like the cost vs benefit isn't really worth it for me to go to 35's.

[Warhead]

just remember with 33s or 35s you will want to re-gear that can be $$$$ if you have to have a shop install them. just my $.02

[NOMADIC_LJ]

- running 35" tires on your stock Dana 35 axle is not a good idea
- TJ brakes are barely suitable for 33s
- gears
- more lift needed

[alosix]

Having spent a good bit of time on both sizes in my TJ I'll say this

1.) It wheels better with the 35s then it did with the 33s, by a good bit. Aired down they have a larger contact patch and just seem to work better.

It took a lot of work to get it happy with the 35s on the road and for reliability compared to the 33s.

33s are a lot easier to fit, and overall easier on the wallet. It wheeled well in this configuration as well. It would do any trail that I would take a street/trail jeep on.

Now with the 35s, it ventures into that area where the buggies go. It can't keep up with the buggies, but it does well enough for me to want to try. Not 100% sure that's a good thing :)

[ERratIC]

I'd go with 33" for general purpose wheeling. If it's not a Rubicon upgrading the rear axle is a minimum. The Dana 35 it barely adiquate with stock tires.

[x32792]

I guess I should be a little more specific. I have a an 03's tj with 4.0 and 5 speed.

I've driven my stock '01 4L TJ with 30x9.5 Dunlop Radial Rovers thousands of miles across America on dirt and gravel with no issues.

Someone has suggested you run stock to find out how you use your Jeep before going to larger tires and I 2nd this recommendation.

One thing leads to another:

Lifts, linkage, fender modifications, heavier 'gate' for your spare, possible restricted turning radius, re-gearing, heavier axles, decreased gas milage and so on...

[Warhead]

One thing leads to another:

Lifts, linkage, fender modifications, heavier 'gate' for your spare, possible restricted turning radius, re-gearing, heavier axles, decreased gas milage and so on...

that is why they call it a "J.E.E.P."
Just Empty Every Pocket

:smiley_drive:

[JPK]

On my LJ I run 33x10.5's (255/85/16's) in the BF Goodrich M/T KO - the original M/T's - and have been very happy with them. They do not offer this tire in any other size than the stock JK Rubicon size anymore, but they now offer the KM2 in that size, which is reportedly a better all around tire.

There are some other brand 255/85/16's too, and they all seem to have a good reputation.

You will need some lift to fit 33's without rubbing the rear finder well. About 3" will cure the rub. A very little bit of contact at full turn with the stock Rubicon wheels.

JPK

[madizell]

For overlanding, per se, 32's are about all you need. If you can fit 33's without trimming and lifting, fine. Running anything larger than stock is going to have an immediate impact on driveability including fuel consumption, available power, alignment management, speedo errors, additional unsprung weight, and so on.

So it depends on what you really want to do with your vehicle. Overlanding and more recreational off-road driving are not really the same thing. Most of the roads and trails covered in overlanding can be done in stock trim, so tall tires are not generally needed, nor do they necessarily add anything to your ability to enjoy vehicle-based exploration and camping.

If you go back only about 15 years, you would find that most folks thought 31x10.5 tires were HUGE, and every trail on the planet was covered with tires no larger than that. I crossed the Talkeetna Mountains in central Alaska in 1997 on 31x10.5 BFG MT's on a trail that had up to that point never been done with a street legal vehicle. It was not a problem.

Personally, I feel tall tires are irrelevant to overlanding, and that for the purpose, a narrow 32 inch tire is about all you will ever need. If you are now running 31's and not having problems getting where you need to go, I would not change size just to change size.

[Root Moose]

Like minds...

I've "designed" my Jeeps around commonly available sizes, that is, the tires run by common pick-up trucks that you can get a replacement tire without special order. In North America that tends to be 265/75-16, 285/75-16 so that is what I run.

[magarnigel]

Hey thanks for all the input everyone. This definitely gives me a lot to think about.
I just recently installed metalcloak fenders on my jeep and was planning on a 2" lift mainly to level it out and give me a little more flex. It seems that 33's will probably be more than enough tire for me, especially since this is also my daily driver.
I was thinking of switching my d35 out and replacing it with an 8.8 with 4.10 gears instead of regearing my d35. Would this be a wise decision or should I use that money elsewhere on the vehicle?

[wacker]

Just wanted to chime in as well as I have a tj on 36's and one on 33's. Really keep it lower. The wife's tj was on 33's for about a year with a two inch lift. Very nice but without regearing it was a bit of a dog on the highway. Now with 31's for the last year, it is my favorite setup to drive. My tj with 36's or on 35's was great offroad as it was longarmed, locked and geared appropriate. That being said, I kind of hate driving it. Way too much work and money to keep it reliable and comfortable on the street. 31's and 2 inch lift is great and handles like a rocket ship. Best tj setup for long distance hands down.

Hope that helps

[Mr. D]

great opinions thanks

[korisu56]

I will throw my 0.02 in too. My TJ had 35's and was a PITA to maintain. Had an 8.8 with 4.56's and LSD. Ball joints, brakes, joints, etc. Just general maintenance goes up exponentially. My biggest regret with that jeep was going bigger than 33s.

My CJ7 has gone most of the places my TJ went on 31x10.50s on stock height and is just generally more fun to drive. Its lower and does very well off road. No lockers, nothing snazzy.

My next Jeep will be a jk unlimited. I will leave it stock height and just alter the bumpers with a winch, lighting, and RTT and call it good. I've learned that companies test their vehicles thoroughly at the presets that they sell the vehicle.

[Hill, Bill E.]

As Korisu56 knows, both my Jeeps are on 33's (CJ7 and XJ) and they just plain work.

I have driven both of my Jeeps cross country to Moab, Utah (3000 hwy miles round trip) and run most of the trails there for a week, then drove home.

As well as taking my XJ to CO for 12 days, with 2000 miles hwy (roundtrip) and 1200 miles off road, driving different trails and mountain passes.


I honestly believe, for a daily driven Jeep, that 33's are the biggest one should run. (on CJ/YJ/TJ's and XJ's/Grands)

I wheel my Jeeps fairly hard, and have fun with them, without breaking the bank.

If I was doing more exploring, and less wheeling, I would run 31's, as they are adequate for 99% of "back country exploring", plus it keeps the COG nice and low, and you have less of the costs that x32792 referred to.


The best mod you can do to your Jeep right now?

"SEAT TIME!"

Driver ability and knowledge of ones rig is the best thing one can do.

A skilled driver can take a stock/slightly modified rig more places than you'd think.

And more importantly, will know when not to take thier rig somewhere.:ylsmoke:

[magarnigel]

So I got some new 33's for the Jeep today. Looking at them now, I'm glad I went this route. I'm probably not going to lift either now because I'm really liking the stance.

[x32792]

I went from OEM 28" tires to 30x9.5 A/T Dunlap Radical Rovers on my stock '01 TJ, 4L with 5 speed. This keeps my GOG low and gives me 1" more ground clearance without any modification to the suspension system. I'm running stock 15" steel OEM rims and do not bind while turning or at full articulation.

To go up to 31" tires would require 2" spacers at the top of my springs and longer shock absorbers. Locally, this is called a 'Budget Lift."

Going from 30" to 31" tires would give me an additional 1/2" more ground clearance, but this is no game changer.

My set up is fine for going long on most dirt and gravel. If I was going to Tierra Del Fuego (and thank gawd no one on this board has stepped up and said they they wanted to make this run with me), I'd pop for a budget lift and 31" M/T tires.

[forsakenfuture]

I see you've already changed fenders so this wont help you much but my LJ with the AEV Highline kit,factory suspension and 35s is the best setup ive ever run.

[magarnigel]

I see you've already changed fenders so this wont help you much but my LJ with the AEV Highline kit,factory suspension and 35s is the best setup ive ever run.

I think mine is going too look fairly similar with the metalcloak fenders. I'm pretty happy with the gained ground clearance and there is plenty of room between the tire and flare. I will try and get some pictures posted as soon as I get the rear flares mounted.

[Bigjerm]

I would think with metalcloak fenders you would want 35's. Why spend all that money on fenders for clearance to do 33's? I am waiting for my fenders next week and I will be on a 2" suspension lift, 1" body lift (for tummy tuck and move up the gas tank) and 35's. Figure once I get through with the bumpers, winch, armor and all that my suspension lift will be more like 1.25" - 1.5"

[magarnigel]

I would think with metalcloak fenders you would want 35's. Why spend all that money on fenders for clearance to do 33's? I am waiting for my fenders next week and I will be on a 2" suspension lift, 1" body lift (for tummy tuck and move up the gas tank) and 35's. Figure once I get through with the bumpers, winch, armor and all that my suspension lift will be more like 1.25" - 1.5"

That was my original plan and then other things got in the way of my funds right now. I still have the stock d35 and did not want to risk running 35's with that axle. Running the numbers, it would have come out to over 2k to get an 8.8 with 4.56 gears and also have the front axle re-geared as well. If I find I need to go to 35's after running my 33's for a while I will, but if I can save some money for now then I will.

[Bigjerm]

I can understand that! Money speaks... I am so glad the LJ came with the 44 rear and 3.73 gears. I am avoiding gears until later. I can buy so many other mods with the price of regear and I only drive a few miles a day so I can stand it for awhile.

[rubicondon53]

I will never go larger tha 33's.. And that's with stock 44 axles, and 4:11's .. Any larger is not necessary for a trail rig and is pretty much a waste of lots of green stuff.. Your 31's & driving skill will get you to the same places the big boys go, with their 35's and larger.

[korisu56]

So I got some new 33's for the Jeep today. Looking at them now, I'm glad I went this route. I'm probably not going to lift either now because I'm really liking the stance.

glad you picked something. pics?

[magarnigel]

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd121/magarnigel/575204039_2042116962_0.jpg[/IMG]

Well I was hoping to have a shot with the front and rear fenders on by now but there was a hang-up with the rear panels getting painted. This is what it looks like so far. I plan on building a tire carrier soon enough so I can get my full size spare. Also, the more I look at it, I am either going to level out the front or possibly even go with a 2 1/2" lift for it. I'm just thinking the stock suspension wont give me as much movement as I would like. Definitely going to drive it like this for a while to see what I really need. I really need to get my new gears as well because this thing is gutless now.

[BigAl]

If i were to start over with a stock TJ, I'd:

1.25 Body Lift

Motor mount lift

Flat skid plate

Rocker Guards

SYE
31s

Big jeeps suck in many ways:)

[JPK]

If i were to start over with a stock TJ, I'd:

1.25 Body Lift

Motor mount lift

Flat skid plate

Rocker Guards

SYE
31s

Big jeeps suck in many ways:)

I have all of these except SLE (body lift is 1", rocker gaurds could use improvement) and a ~3" lift to boot. The Jeep rides on 33's, which is about perfect.

I have a roof rack, which is nice to have when you need it but a eats gas and engine highway performance.

My LJ has 4.10's and they're ok but for the roof rack. 4.56's or 4.88's would be better with the rack.

Lots of guys advocating 30's or 31's but while the 2" jump to 33's doesn't seem like much, it adds 1.5" of differential clearance, center clearance, improves approach and especially deprture angles. At the same time, 33's are not too large, and the 255/85R-16's, 33"x10" fit under the flares for those states with tire coverage regs. I think the relatively skinny 33's are the perfect option.

JPK

[BigAl]

I have all of these except SLE (body lift is 1", rocker gaurds could use improvement) and a ~3" lift to boot. The Jeep rides on 33's, which is about perfect.



Do you have any pics, I'd like to see the skid?

[Rufjeep]

I've had CJ's & YJ's over the years running P235's, 31's, 32's, 33's, 35's, and 37's. My last Cj was running a 5.3,700r4, 60/14, SOA, stretched...I sold it last fall.

I have got a bone stock YJ now with a 4.0/ auto, and my build plan is an OME lift, 8.8 in the rear, Selectable lockers at both ends, 4.10's, and 31's. I'll fab up some simple bumpers with good recovery points, some rocker gaurds, and a flat skids...and call it good.

It is a slippery slope when you start modding a Jeep, and it seems to come to a point where it is just never ending.

[magarnigel]

It is a slippery slope when you start modding a Jeep, and it seems to come to a point where it is just never ending.

I'm realizing this very quickly. I figure as long as I pace myself with the mods, I shouldn't get too overwhelmed.

[JPK]

Do you have any pics, I'd like to see the skid?

I don't have any photos that show the set up well, but below is a link to Skid Row's cite showing the engine/tranny skid which bolts to the transfer case skid/cross member.

The combination of the long flat engine skid bolting to the transfer case skid/cross member gets rid of the scoop effect of the oem set up.

http://www.skidplates.com/Engine_97_TJ.asp

An unintended benefit of the large surface area is that you can only sink so far into even the softest, gooeyest muck.:Wow1:

Also, the steering box on the TJ/LJ's hangs low in front, waiting to be eaten by obstacles. Skid Row makes a simple skid plate to protect it too.

JPK

[TheBlackSheep]

I also run an 03' TJ 5 speed 4.0L. Initially, the guy who owned it before me had absolutely no idea what he was doing (4" BL?!, sagging Teraflex springs, the list goes on), so I ended up spending a pretty penny to rip all his crap off and start from scratch and do it right, repairing the damage he had already done.

Mine is a 50/50 "Mudcrawler"/Expedition build. 3" Suspension, 1" BL, 1" MML, 1" T-case drop, with Mickey Thompson 33" 12.5 Baja Claws, adjustable front track bar, with rear track bar bracket, 2" Daystar bump stops in the front with bump stop extensions in the back, progressive springs, the works.

Now that suspension is squared away, and after I get some armor (skid plates, rock sliders), and a winch, next on the list is drive-train.

I'll be getting rid of the T-case drop and getting a tummy tuck, with SYE and CV shaft, dropping a Rubicon D44 in the back, with 4.10 gears, an E-locker in the back and an Aussie up front.

So far, just with the suspension modifications, open axles and 3.07 gears, I can handle 3's with little trouble short of some "redneck pinstripes" here and there. And that is fine by me, not being built as a full-on rock crawler.

I'm thankful that I have more of the ExPo bug than I do the Rock bug, because once you go past the 4" lift range, it becomes a new ball of wax, a really expensive one. If you want a strong ExPo Jeep, you can become quite capable with mainly suspension upgrades and very few drive train modifications, as long as you stay off the skinny pedal and let 4Lo do all the work for you when the going gets rough.

For strictly an ExPo Wrangler with an impressive amount of capability and 33" tires, I suggest the following:

- No more than 4" lift - If you go higher, you're looking at CV shafts and SYE's. 2.75 - 3" suspension, with a 1" BL is the way to go and will give you plenty of clearance.

- Adjustable Front Track bar with Rear Track bar Bracket

- 1" MML

- 1" T-case drop (Note: This may not be necessary. Some folks have been able to get away with just the 1" MML without needing a T-case drop)

- Rock-sliders, gas tank skid

That's it. With a little driving skill thrown in to boot, you can ExPo most anything, and handle up to 3's if you want to do some crawling. Just be cautious and get ready to back off the skinny pedal or you'll be getting towed home if you've got a D35 in the back.

Now, I strongly recommend the following at some point if you find yourself ExPo'ing on a regular basis:

- 8-10,000lb Winch
- Tummy Tuck - CV shaft and SYE
- T-Case skid

In closing, be ready to bend your shifter, re-adjust your linkage, and maybe even cut an inch or two off the bottom of your lower shifter tunnel if you get a BL. Trust me.

[Topgun514]

Lots of guys advocating 30's or 31's but while the 2" jump to 33's doesn't seem like much, it adds 1.5" of differential clearance, center clearance, improves approach and especially deprture angles. At the same time, 33's are not too large, and the 255/85R-16's, 33"x10" fit under the flares for those states with tire coverage regs. I think the relatively skinny 33's are the perfect option.

JPK

The first time you say 31 to a 33 is such a small, unnoticeable change, is the start of something bad.

[Brigitta]

I have lurked on this site for a long time and finally decided to register as a member.

This thread is an interesting one as most of us have a definite opinion on what size tire is appropriate for "overlanding".

I've been 4 wheeling for nearly 30 years and have enjoyed both hard core rock crawling and overlanding. We have used Land Cruisers, Troopers, and 4x4 Dodge vans for overlanding and a few years ago purchased an unlimited JK to use for both.

As for tire size there is no "perfect" size for overlanding. Here in the west we have awesome areas to explore, but many of which will lead high into the mountains. Many of these high elevation dirt roads are subject to washouts and can be difficlut to cross with anything less than a 33" tire.

For overlanding in my area (exploring ghost towns and mining camps) I wouldn't go smaller than a 33, but if I lived in the lower elevation areas I probably could get by with a 31.

So keep in mind the terrain you personally will be covering and decide what works best for your terrain not what works best for someone else.

just my 2 cents

[Metcalf]

My recommendation for most 'normal' people....

For a TJ.

-2" lift ( about a million ways to do this, some much better than others )
-Nth degree tummy tucker ( no body lift )
-SYE conversion and CV rear shaft ( w/ adjustable upper control arms in rear )
-front swaybar disconnects ( I like the AEV ones currently )
-255/85r16s or 285/75r16s

With a proper suspension setup you CAN get 33s on with only 2" of lift and stock fenders. It just requires a little tuning.

Even a non-rubicon TJ set up like this will go 99% of the places you would ever need with a decent driver. Add a winch, OBA, then lockers....enjoy for the next few decades.

I'm not a fan of the D35. Ditch it and run a TJ D44. They are pretty easy to find these days and very dependable. If you want to get picky, run the XJ high pinion D30 front to get the driveshaft up out of the way and have MUCH better angles with the tummy tucker. Discs on the D44 are a blessing, I think the conversion is under $500 now.

Do the ultra-short SYE conversion, the extra driveline length is worth it.

Don't buy stupid wide wheels. The stock Rubi wheels work pretty dang good with 255s. The old AEV 16s worked well with 285s. You can run a 'bent' lower control arm in front for almost 100% factory steering angle with 33s on factory wheels.

[JPK]

The first time you say 31 to a 33 is such a small, unnoticeable change, is the start of something bad.

If you were to re-read my post, you will discover that I was saying that what seems a modest, less than 7% increase in tire height makes a substantial difference.

In other words, I was writing the opposite of what you infer.

JPK