Vehicle Security Measures

[Scott Brady]

Many of us have invested significant time and money into the building of our vehicles. It is also likely that we leave them unattended while doing hikes, mountain bike treks, or shopping in a small village.

There are a few basic measures that can be taken, and then several more advanced solutions:

1. Basic Prevention:
a. Make sure that all doors are locked, and windows up
b. Make sure that no items can be easily grabbed from the bed, etc.

2. Intermediate Prevention:
a. Many vehicles have factory alarm systems with ignition kill. Make sure you know how to engage and disengage the system
b. Visual protection, like a steering wheel lock

3. Advanced Protection:
a. Full alarm system, with ignition kill
b. secondary door locks
c. Window screens
d. Proximity alarms

What have you used?

[BajaTaco]

One day I went to a local store to get some things. When I came out to leave, my truck wouldn't start. After a lot of troubleshooting, I couldn't figure out what the problem could be. Finally, I walked over to a parts store and bought a new fuel filter. I laid under the truck in the parking lot with a drip pan and changed out the filter, hoping that would do the trick. No luck. I ended up walking home and making arrangements to have the truck hauled to the dealership by a wrecker. The dealership spent hours trying to figure out, and finally fixing the problem. So what was it? A failed security device made by Clifford that I had installed on the truck when it was new. I can't stand audible car alarms (especially when out in the backcountry), so I thought a system-kill device with a computer chip was a good solution. Never again. This device was set up to disable the vehicle from starting, and it worked by means of a "key" that was a pin inserted into a switching device. The chip in the key is always changing codes along with the switch, so the key becomes unique and will be the only key to disable the device. Obviously, something on the unit (computer) failed. And had this happened while I was out in the boonies somewhere, I would have been screwed.

[Brian McVickers]

We also tend to have more stuff hanging off of our vehicles than your average car. Precautions should also be taken to secure these items if you can't stow them inside.

Cables and or Padlocks along with special holders can be applied to:
Hi-Lift Jacks
Shovels
Axes
Water and Fuel Cans
Spare Tires
(Note - make the cable substantial, at least 1/4" braided steel, anything smaller is just too easy to cut through with ordinary tools)

Also
D-Shackles should be more than hand tight so that it would be difficult for someone who is just walking by to stop and take it off your vehicle by hand with no tools.

Make sure your winch clutch is always locked or set to non-free-spool. This will prevent someone from grabbing the hook and just pulling the cable out. (Note that this one is more intended to prevent vandals or people just screwing around, If they are the type to do that hopefully they don't know what the lever is for anyway!)

CB or HAM radio Antennas
Would be great to secure some how even it you just tighten them so that they can not be undone by hand.

A lock for your towing hitch receiver to secure the ball mount or recovery point you have in there.

In addition always try to hide, cover, remove or properly stow anything of value or interest that may be inside the vehicle. (A neighbor recently caught some kits walking around the neighborhood pressing their faces up to the windows to inspect the insides of vehicles to see what might be worth breaking a window for!)

[Hltoppr]

Hey Scott!

You forgot parking inside the hotel!!!!


-H- :victory:

[Hltoppr]

Actually, when our motorcycles were parked outside overnight, we would empy the panniers and cable lock the rear wheels/frames together.....

More deterrent than anything, but then again we were usually parked on the front porch of the hotels, etc. (Con permiso...)

-H-

[goodtimes]

From my vast (haha) experience, there are 2 kinds of thieves to worry about. Those that want to make a quick buck by selling stuff they stole, and those who want your vehicle.

The first type are going to grab whatever they can in less than 2 or 3 minutes, and get the heck out of there. They will target things like your cd player, sunglasses, gps, etc. They don't want large bulky items as they draw to much attention (which is why my kayak and cooler were about the only things of value that were left the last time my jeep was broken into). The best defense from these guys is to take everything inside with you at night, and cover it the rest of the time. If the next vehicle looks like it has more stuff to steal, they will target that one instead of yours.

The second type of thieves are harder to deter. The stakes are higher, so they will take more time to get what they want. Audible alarms are annoying....does anyone ever look to see what is going on when they hear one go off? I don't......I like visible deterrents. Steering wheel locks etc give the thief a heads up that he has a little bit of work ahead of him. Hopefully they will move on....if not, ignition kill switches are good. The jeep has a factory installed system that works pretty well. Once the engine starts, there is a RFID chip in the key...if the chip doesn't send the correct signal back to the computer within 2 seconds of the vehicle starting, the engine shuts off. Factory installed systems are pretty reliable....I (like Bajataco) don't trust aftermarket systems. They make me nerfous. But, a simple switch can be wired in series with the ignition switch....turn the secondary switch off, and the electrical signal from the ignition switch to the ECM gets interrupted...so it won't start. If the switch fails, just pull the wires off the back and connect them to each other....the switch has been eliminated. Mount the switch where ever you like (under a seat, under the dash, in the glove box....). This will render your vehicle about as safe as you can get it. At this point, they will need a tow truck to get it from you. Which brings up a bit of food for thought.....if you are at the end of a road, getting ready to go for a hike up to some point of interest.....you see a tow truck pull up to a truck and proceed to load it and tow it off.....what is going through your mind? I'd bet that you are thinking "that sucks...some body's truck wouldn't start so they have to pay to have it towed out and repaired".... but really....what is to say it isn't a thief towing it off while the owner is out hiking/backpacking?

[asteffes]

Pulling the fuel pump fuse is an uber-tactical security tool which I have employed more than once. Ok, it's not super-sly, but it's an idea, and I have done it for security reasons.

I think the most obvious bit of advice is to keep as much stuff out of sight as possible, and lock down anything that you cannot keep out of sight. If they *really* want your rig, they'll get it somehow.

The '05+ include an engine immobilizer, which works automatically with the factory keys. The ECU simply won't fire the ignition until a factory key with the correct rolling-code is used to start the truck.

[Scott Brady]

I have the factory Toyota alarm, which is actually pretty nice. It disables the ignition. I also have a steering wheel lock. All of the exterior items are locked and the rear swing-out can be locked closed. The platform I made went a long way towards securing my gear.

[BajaTaco]

While people participate in this thread, just keep in mind that the info you share can be read by just about anyone. ;)

Another useful security item can be found on my website - installing a hoodlock on a Tacoma (http://www.bajataco.com/zr2steve/hoodlock1.html) (thanks to Steve for the write-up)

[goodtimes]

While people participate in this thread, just keep in mind that the info you share can be read by just about anyone. ;)


Good point...

I have a shotgun shell stuffed into a steel pipe pointed at the drivers seat...rigged to go off and when someone tries to steal my stereo again. All you thieves keep that in mind. hehehe....

[Brian McVickers]

http://www.cnn.com/WORLD/africa/9812/11/flame.thrower.car/
Be sure to check out the video too!

This is a deterent for while you are actually in your vehicle, only available in South Africa though.

Different than what we would all have need for but very impressive!

[BajaXplorer]

http://www.palmaautoboot.com/
:jump:

[60seriesguy]

Vehicle Security is a great topic, one often ignored during expeditions, sometimes with drastic consequences. A few years ago a couple of TLCA members were surfing off a remote beach in Baja California, and when they returned, they found their Land Cruiser gone, along with all of their equipment.

Being originally from Venezuela, my Land Cruiser is equipped with what was state-of-the-art security in 1990 and remains overkill for most US applications. Most of the security devices listed below are mechanical in nature because of the intended use of my Land Cruiser. None are completely theft-proof, but are designed to complement each other and simply make the vehicle as least attractive to thieves as possible. This isn't to say that the truck can't be stolen, simply that it's going to be much easier to steal the next truck than mine. Among these are:

1. Shifter Lock + Shifter Collar. This device manually locks the shifter in reverse and prevents the shifter from being pulled out or removed.
2. T-Case Lock: works in conjunction with the above (single key) and manually locks the t-case shifter in low gear.
3. Pedal Lock: Locks the brake and clutch pedals together and prevents them from being depressed.
4. Fuel Cutoff/Anti-Carjack: Mechanical device located on the floorboard (under the firewall), allows cutting off fuel supply
5. Hood Lock: A low tech section of re-inforced steel chain that drops in front of the radiator and locks to a welded tab on the frame.
6. Two separate electrical cutoff switches

I don't have pictures here in the office but I'll post some tonite.

On expeditions in remote areas, VISIBILITY is what usually gets us in trouble. If people can't see your gear, they'll be less prone to grab it, even if they assume that you have it. Thus, it's always important to have gear stowed/out of site when you park for fuel, and especially important to keep gear stowed away when you're camping and out for the night. You might *think* you're remote and miles from anyone else, but I've had stuff stolen from our campsites in South America in very remote areas, nothing is ever really safe. Most of the time it's a crime of opportunity rather than one being actively targeted.

I second the notion of securing jacks and spare tires and suggest taking it a step further. When on expedition I run a cable through the handles of all my jerry cans, not only while they're on the rack, but also when they're on the ground. The cable is long enough that I can run it through either the trailer's wheel or through the legs of chairs/tables and cooler handles. In some areas, this isn't necessary, in other places, it's the only way of keeping stuff around. Again, this may not deter a dedicated thief, but will keep crimes of opportunity at a minimum.

On my trailer, I padlock the steel lid (which prevents the tailgate from dropping) and keep a lock on the lunette hitch when the trailer is not connected to the Cruiser. Even when they'e connected, I run another cable from the trailer's tongue to the Land Cruiser's rear bumper.

Great topic!

[Hltoppr]

Henry, I've admired your vehicle for years, and used it as a basis for some of my expedition type mods....!

Cheers!

-H-

[pskhaat]

A simple device I have worked out on my FZJ80 is a manual `enable' switch between the brake pedal switch and the Automatic Park Lock. You can enable default functions through a momentary switch. Very easy to do. I would not rely on this alone of course, but this may delay any theft by at least a few minutes to track it down.

When leaving my vehicle for a long time I also often pull the high-tension wire between coil and dizzy. Hard to source that one when trying to steal a vehicle.

A manual fuel valve I'm sure can also delay any theft and has other benefits.

I gotta believe with a few deterants theft of the vehicle itself (the largest real asset) can be 99% succesfully avoided.

[VikingVince]

Henry,

geez, that's a pretty impressive, involved list of security measures...honestly, I wouldn't even know how to do half of that list!!...that's depressing...LOL...maybe I'll just buy more insurance, if they'll let me :exclaim:

[Boston Mangler]

Also, if you own an FZJ80, make sure you do something with the rear sliding windows! My truck has been broken into 2x via those windows. They are actually so poorly designed you can open them by HAND!

Just a heads up for FJ80 and FZJ80 owners!

I am still trying to find a fix. I have even thought of swapping over to the real early style 80 NON sliding windows since they arent used for anything!

My .02

:)

Also, another observation: For those of you doing dual battery setups, they now make 4 way switches that require a KEY to move them! Pretty cool!

Check It Out:
http://www.yankeetoys.org/mangler/switchs.jpg

[Scott Brady]

A wise member of this forum sent me an email:

He relayed a personal story of confronting a thief, successfully stopping the theft, and put a good hurting on the guy in the process. At the end of it all, HE was arrested.

The wisdom in all of this is that in 99% of cases, you are better off giving the thief what they want. The reason for that is, if you DO NOT have the experience or skill to physically stop a thief, it is likely you or the people you are with will be hurt. But if you DO have the skills to stop the thief, than that will likely be used against you.

The law only protects the use of force if the loss of LIFE is probable, or physical harm is likely. Not the loss of property. There are other situations, which add complexity, but this thread is only about the loss of property.

I dont want to take this off topic, but I think it is important to make the comment.

[blupaddler]

Scott, Kevin, Exiled...excellent points

Baja...I had the same thing happen to me with my 80 shortly after I purchased it. We were out running errands. Locked up the car, and closed the door. What do you know, I had an alarm. The PO had no idea of any alarm, and no key/switch for it either. Long story short, I had to have it towed to a electrical shop. Where they proceeded to remove ALL parts associtated with the alarm.


GT...You also have another type security system. I big, black, mean looking dog. ;) BTW, I hope she is doing well

[goodtimes]

GT...You also have another type security system. I big, black, mean looking dog. ;) BTW, I hope she is doing well

The only problem with that security system, is that she would happily trade the jeep or dodge for a pat on the head.

Off topic....she is doing pretty well. I'd say probably 75%. I don't know if she will be making any more backpacking trips though. I don't think her knee will take it, based on what happens when I let her play with another dog (she limps for a couple days). I will have to wait a few months and see how her recovery goes.

Back on topic....

[Scott Brady]

You know Robb, that is an excellent point.

A dog is one of the best protections against theft. There is no question my best pal Yukon would stop the ill intended in their tracks. But... he doesn't fit in the truck.

[pskhaat]

Isn't Colorado, Wyoming, Oklahoma, and Texas ``Make My Day'' law states where both life AND property threat are protected?

I'm no lawyer I really don't know, but I'm pretty sure at least WY & CO are. My brother (fj803fe on this board) and I grew up (in CO/WY) with the expectation at protecting our propety at any cost (how good advice this was from our parental units is questionable, but...)

[pskhaat]

I've heard some LX470s have solid (and swappable) rear windows.

I know they'd be an easy break-in point, but havn't personally been able to. I've tried and stopped when I thought I might start breaking things. You'll have to PM/email me the steps.

[60seriesguy]

There's a real simple fix that prevents the rear sliding windows on an 80 series from being popped open. This will be tough without a picture, but basically, you unbolt the plastic "clamp" from the window, then take a drill and with a narrow bit (and slowly, so you don't burn the plastic), you drill a hole from the top down across both sides. The hole needs to be just wide enough to fit an unpopped aluminum rivet tightly.

The rivet's "stem" will prevent the clamp from popping off, but allows you to secure the window. This works so well it used to be a std modification done at Toyota dealerships on the 70 series and 80 series windows.

If you want something even more secure and you don't live in an area where it rains a lot, buy some of those old-school locks of sliding glass cabinets, with the lock mounted on the inside of the truck. For further visibility, paint the backside of the lock (the one that will sit outside of the truck) orange or yellow or red, so that would-be thieves notice it.

[60seriesguy]

Here's a picture (a pretty poor one) of the shifter lock on the Cruiser. You can see the ring welded to the shifter that prevents the shifter from being twisted and pulled out.

[Suty]

Isn't Colorado, Wyoming, Oklahoma, and Texas ``Make My Day'' law states where both life AND property threat are protected?

I'm no lawyer I really don't know, but I'm pretty sure at least WY & CO are. My brother (fj803fe on this board) and I grew up (in CO/WY) with the expectation at protecting our propety at any cost (how good advice this was from our parental units is questionable, but...)
As I understand it here in Tejas: If you are on my property after dark and are attempting to steal or break into anything, then you are as good as dead. That's if I have good gun control. I believe the key to this is the After Dark Clause. Needless to say, At least here in Tejas you can defend Your Life and Property from those who would try and take it...........Tu Compa, Suty

[Boston Mangler]

There's a real simple fix that prevents the rear sliding windows on an 80 series from being popped open. This will be tough without a picture, but basically, you unbolt the plastic "clamp" from the window, then take a drill and with a narrow bit (and slowly, so you don't burn the plastic), you drill a hole from the top down across both sides. The hole needs to be just wide enough to fit an unpopped aluminum rivet tightly.

The rivet's "stem" will prevent the clamp from popping off, but allows you to secure the window. This works so well it used to be a std modification done at Toyota dealerships on the 70 series and 80 series windows.

If you want something even more secure and you don't live in an area where it rains a lot, buy some of those old-school locks of sliding glass cabinets, with the lock mounted on the inside of the truck. For further visibility, paint the backside of the lock (the one that will sit outside of the truck) orange or yellow or red, so that would-be thieves notice it.

Thanks for the info Henry!

Any more details or pics would be very appreciated! :D

[60seriesguy]

If you send me a picture of the inside clamp (close-up) I'll show you. I don't have access to one here.

[Boston Mangler]

If you send me a picture of the inside clamp (close-up) I'll show you. I don't have access to one here.

Thanks Henry:

http://www.yankeetoys.org/mangler/IMG_0181.jpg

[60seriesguy]

All right, I'm clearly no artist, but here's the basic idea. Drill where the yellow dots are, so you can slide the rivet in from above. Make sure you get the longer rivets and that the hole matches the rivet as closely as possible and makes it a snug fit.

[VikingVince]

My external locks are finished and installed and, if I may say so myself, I'm really happy with the look and function. I used the puck type trailer locks and hasp found at(thanks Scott):

http://www.lockitt.com/TrailerDoorLocks.htm

I found the identical lock/hasp at Home Depot for a little cheaper. ($35 for lock and hasp) This hasp is big (about 4"x 9") and made of 3/16 steel (heavy). I cut off all the flat part of the hasp, ground it down, leaving just the round part that the lock fits into. Then drill new holes into the round part for attaching the hasp to the vehicle. (I used rivets to attach to the truck) This might even be an improvement over the original design because now the rivets are covered by the lock; nobody can drill out the rivets when the lock is in place plus no one would know if it's attached with rivets or bolts.

I spraypainted them flat black and installed them on the bottom part of both doors as well as the back flippac door. IMO, they look good (don't detract from the look of the truck) PLUS when the locks are in they look intimidating as hell!! Good deterrent factor I think plus they are very good locks.

Here's my total vehicle theft prevention. (based on disconnecting the battery and locking the hood) I bought a simple battery terminal disconnect switch and Pepboys and installed it. (you could also just pull off the negative ground cable) I fabricated a hood lock from a piece of 1/8"x3"x12" flat steel. I bent it into an "S" shape (with difficulty!) with a hole drilled in one end. One end of the "S" steel piece is screwed in just under the lip of the hood. It comes down on top of one of the hole tabs in my ARB bumper so the two holes are aligned. I'm using another puck type trailer lock with a pin I fashioned from a piece of rebar to lock the hood to the bumper. You could also use a locking trailer hitch pin to go through the two holes. The puck type lock just look more intimidating and are harder to get at to break.

These measures aren't foolproof but my truck is now ALOT harder to get into...and I sleep a little better!!!!

[Desertdude]

Nice work Vince - I look forward to checking it out first hand in Baja

I had this security back in the day when I ran my FJ40 everywhere.

http://idisk.mac.com/desertdude-Public/brando.glasses.jpg

Ancient Roman proverb " That which is seen is half lost"

- I live by it :bowdown:

[MaddBaggins]

When backpacking or hiking I will usually leave a note stuck in my window.

"John, I have your extra ammo and the Winchester, will meet you back here.

Later, Steve"

No dates, no times, just that some guy with guns and ammo will be back soon.
Haven't had my rig broke into yet.:gunt:

also have a steering wheel club.

[DaktariEd]

When backpacking or hiking I will usually leave a note stuck in my window.

"John, I have your extra ammo and the Winchester, will meet you back here.

Later, Steve"

No dates, no times, just that some guy with guns and ammo will be back soon.
Haven't had my rig broke into yet.:gunt:

also have a steering wheel club.


I love that note idea!
I'm going to have to try it!

:xxrotflma

[Scenic WonderRunner]

I found this note over at Yotatech that a guy leaves on his seat!




http://www.pnw4runners.com/pics/break_in.jpg

[asteffes]

I've heard some LX470s have solid (and swappable) rear windows.

I know they'd be an easy break-in point, but havn't personally been able to. I've tried and stopped when I thought I might start breaking things. You'll have to PM/email me the steps.

There are clear films, similar to window tint films, that strengthen the glass against breaking. Most tint shops can get and install these films. They're great for homes, too.

[asteffes]

As I understand it here in Tejas: If you are on my property after dark and are attempting to steal or break into anything, then you are as good as dead. That's if I have good gun control. I believe the key to this is the After Dark Clause. Needless to say, At least here in Tejas you can defend Your Life and Property from those who would try and take it...........Tu Compa, Suty

You may also wish to look up an Duty to Retreat clauses in your firearms law. Sometimes you have to try to run away first if a bad guy is after you.

[k6uk]

First of all, a great resource for gun/personal protection laws is www.packing.org
In Texas, Oklahoma, Florida and a growing number of states you have the right to protect yourself and your property without retreat. There is also a "good samaritan" law making the rounds that says you can run to the aid of another and aid in thier protection (person and property) - the site above is a decent resource for these types of questions. That being said, if you can avoid a fight, that is often the best course of action. Even under the protection of these laws if you kill someone - or injure them - your life will still take a miserable multi-year turn. Civil suits, interrogation, none of it's fun.

Okay... on to happier subjects.
I've been looking at the ignition override systems that they install in emergency vehicles. They allow you to leave the engine running while locking the transmission in park (you get to take the keys with you) I know that they make stand alone units www.secure-idle.com and that some alarms have this feature. Any suggestions on the best way to achieve this functionality - so I can grab some beef jerky with the AC on!

-Mike

[asteffes]

One must be careful when it comes to defending others. How do you know the guy you "defended," who happened to be counter-attacking wasn't the original attacker? This is a huge topic that has more appropriate places for discussion. I think we just found the tip of the iceberg here.

Also, I'm not sure how the Secure-Idle system would work in modern vehicles equipped with eletronic immobilizers (like Toyotas) that depend on the key for proper authorization to start up.

[k6uk]

I think we just found the tip of the iceberg here.
Indeed, this is a complex subject - and obviously every situation presents a unique set of circumstances. Serious thought should precede any action - but it is nice to know that in many states we do have the right to defend ourselves from attack. Of course this doesn't really apply to where I live.


Also, I'm not sure how the Secure-Idle system would work in modern vehicles equipped with eletronic immobilizers (like Toyotas) that depend on the key for proper authorization to start up.
I think I'll give them a call and get an answer to this. Since the car is already running when the device is enabled (it just prevents the ignition from stopping the engine) maybe it would still work? I'll call them and see.

-Mike

[datrupr]

While inAZ it is "legal" to shoot/kill someone threatening your or loved ones life, and even third party if anyone is deemed to be in "grave" danger. But, be prepared to be arrested, charged with murder, put on trial, pay for lawyers, etc. You will more than likely be aquitted if the shooting was legitemate, but you still have to go through all that crap, and your life will essentially be ruined, and you will probably end up broke. It is better to run away, then ruin your life for a few material possesions. However, if I come across some guy raping my wife or any other woman for that matter, you can guarantee he will not make it to the hospital. My CCW trainer always said, "If you have to shoot someone, make sure you do not hurt them, kill them because a dead person can not testify against you in court." I hope I never have to pull my weapon out on any other human period.

And, sorry if I opened up a whole new can of worms there. les try to stay on topic.

[robert]

I actually thought about installing some screens like you see in vans over the windows of the camper shell (on the inside) or maybe just a couple of bars.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about a way to disable the truck, probably a kill switch somewhere. On the VW, I pull the rotor cap out if I'm leaving it parked somewhere.


I hate thieves. :ar15:

[Coachgeo]

LOL.. on my rig there is a built in anti theft device. There is 7 shift levers between the seats. If they decide to steal it.... once they get inside they will not have NO clue on how to even get it in gear much less start the thing. I'm building my own dash so it will have seperate start and glow plug buttons. I may not even put a key start. Not sure yet.

[gjackson]

Security is one of the biggest concerns we had when putting our truck together. When you are off in the boonies on a separate continent, your truck is your life line. It is everything you own, and given time and effort is very valuable to you! We locked everything on the outside down with padlocks and cables. The front spare was locked with a padlock. Window protection was more of a deterrant and was made artsy in the process! ;-) The one thing we didn't lock down were the driving wheels, mainly because I hate those keyed lug nuts, and our wheels have no bling to them.

But as has been observed in posts above, the best thing to do is keep your valuables out of sight. We had curtains on the rear windows, and tried to have everything under cover and packed up. When leaving the car we would stow the GPS, computer etc in the tuffy box and make the driving compartment look as bare as possible.

As for stopping the car thieves, I hate immobilizers. We had a aftermarket Clifford system fail on a Range Rover that left us stranded until we figured out how to defeat it. And the defeating part was easy! I'd rather install a cut off switch to the fuel solenoid (for diesel) and a battery cut off switch. In foreign countries thieves will usually run if they see you coming (rather than stay to fight) so if you can delay them long enough, then. . .

But the main point is to make it a pain in the *** for someone to get in. There is no way we could fly under the radar in Africa, so we had to make all of the locks and cables pretty obvious. A LR Defender is so easy to break into it's not funny! By the end of the trip the rear side window protection was held on by wire ties, but it still worked as a deterrant.

Of course then there are the bandits who stop you in the middle of no where with an AK47 and demand everything you have. Then is not a good time to fight. And also, stopping because someone is lying in the road isn't a good idea if you are out in the boonies. One of the first questions we usually get asked about our Africa trip is how many guns we took. And the answer is zero! The best weapon and defense you have is between your ears, and you don't get arrested smuggling that into foreign countries! (Usually!) We got into some pretty hair raising situations with people waving guns around and making threats, but if you stay calm and reasonable, it seems that most people would rather talk than shoot.

Just my 2c!

cheers

[Scott Brady]

Another very cool solution:

Tufloc (http://www.esmet.com/tufloclocks.html)

http://www.esmet.com/images/tufloclocks-home.jpg

[ZooJunkie]

I also have a steering wheel lock.

Words of advice from experience.

Steering wheel locks (aka The Club or something like that) are useless against someone who wants your vehicle. Those can be rendered useless in a matter of 15-20 secs w/ a hack saw.

I'm not talking about hack sawing the lock itself. That's far too hard and the steel is nicely harden.

[edgear]

What are your thoughts on the Lo-Jack (http://www.lojack.com/)? It's not really a theft-deterrant, but more of a recovery device. However, I'm sure the savvy thieves know how to disable that device, like most alarms...

[bigreen505]

I have one for my dog and I've been told they work well.

Keep in mind that the goal of any security product, be it locks, alarms, or clubs is to convince would-be thieves that it would be easier to steal another car.

I really like the concept of Lo-Jack because it is the only thing that works after your car is stolen, though it is probably of little value outside of the US. I have to admit that the big brother/conspiracy theorist is my is a little afraid of a device that allows my car to be tracked anywhere and turned on by a third party.

[Grim Reaper]

I have one for my dog and I've been told they work well.

Keep in mind that the goal of any security product, be it locks, alarms, or clubs is to convince would-be thieves that it would be easier to steal another car.

I really like the concept of Lo-Jack because it is the only thing that works after your car is stolen, though it is probably of little value outside of the US. I have to admit that the big brother/conspiracy theorist is my is a little afraid of a device that allows my car to be tracked anywhere and turned on by a third party.


it's not like you can be tracked like a cell phone.... Ohh yeah you can be tracked by a cell phone...In fact by end of next year just about everywhere you will be able to be located within 20ft. Thank the Feds for that because of lawsuits from people having wrecks ending up off road the road and 911 not being able to locate the caller. So now the police will know where you are when you call. I wonder how long till somebody figures out how to hack that.

And before you ask , Yes I am in the business and NO your phone doesn't have to have GPS. The system can triangulate it instantly to 20ft.

[bigreen505]

Really? I thought that was the point of Lo-Jack. So what exactly does it do?

[Grim Reaper]

I have been in the vehicle electronics business for nearly 20 years.

The biggest problem with electronic security systems is how easy they are t over ride. Most cases this is not the fault of the equipment, its the Fault of hack installers.

The easy way to install a system is right at the Fuse box and driver side kick panel most of the wiring you need is easily accessed there. That's door locks, power, lights, starter wires and horn.

Most installers will zip tie the brain up under the dash to the column or next to the fuse box. Guess what... the Thief knows that and knows there is a 95% chance that they can get at that box in 10-15 seconds and kill the system.
Factory alarm? PLEASE they suck too. Most will disable with the door lock. If you pop the lock you usually can get them disabled. A screw driver and a hammer you can punch the screw driver right under the door lock and knock the retaining clip off and the lock pulls right out. Punch the linkage and you are in with no alarm.

Hidden switches.....you thought of it...you don't think the thief knows to look?

VAT's? Yeah it can be over come. My Buddie is a lock smith. He can Re-key them easily and he has a nice little black box that he plugs into the pig tail and goes through all the possible codes in less the 10 minutes. Yeah it has a 10 minute lock out BUT he will know the code in 10 minutes even locked out. So by the time he has the new key made with the correct value it has timed out. You don't think thieves will get those?

Door locks?....yeah My lock smith buddy can open anything but the top end Benz's You think a thief can't?

If they want it they will get it if given time.

The key is not to give them time to get to far away with the vehicle or be able to get at a secured area.

If you go with an aftermarket alarm make sure the installer is top end. They should make the brain inaccessible without taking half the dash apart. The wiring should be disguised to look just like the factory wiring. The power source should be guarded and not directly off the fuse box. Tag a feed under the hood, up under the dash somewhere. Siren should be mounted so it cant easily be gotten to without a jack in a car...Truck that's hard. Try and get it in a place that guards the wires and the siren.

What ever you do must be able to be done from the driver seat but not obvious...Pulling the distributor cap...what if you were watched?...they know what you did. Hidden exterior switches...again if watched they will check where you went to on the exterior.

The BEST trick I am aware of is let them have it just long enough to get out of sight and in the middle of the road and then it dies. It is also a desirable way to deal with a car jacking...you want them away from you. Having the car dead while they can harm you is BAD. Let them take the car long enough to be away from you.

On a Carb vehcile this is very easily done for about $15. JC Whitney sells a Keyed fuel valve that is bulk head mount. . Slide the passenger seat forward flip up the mat and mount it through the floor there. What will happen is they will get the car started and they will get a few feet down the road on the fuel in the float bowl and then it will die right in the middle of the road drawing attention to it.

Thief is not going to hang around to figure it out where he is being watched as he blocks traffic. There is a time out device that will do the same thing on a Fuel injected vehicle that you can put in line with the wire that runs the fuel pump.

On my truck I have a drawer system for my tools and recovery gear. To open the drawer the tail gate has to be open. I am building a spare tire and Jerry can rack for the back. It will have a place for a Puck lock so that it can not be opened without dealing with that. So short of cutting that lock off or climbing in the back seat and ripping the 1/2 inch ply wood off that is held on with elevator bolts, then drilling out all the rivets to the aluminum top of the drawer that is bolted to the floor with grade 8 bolts that are tack welded from below, they ain't getting at it.

Like was said...the goal it to make it not worth their time or to draw attention to them.

You have to be realistic as well. Anything you do to lock something up needs to be unlocked when you need it. So for you to lock everything can be quite an aggravation and if you get lazy then your gear is at risk....Like my drawer...Locking the tire rack effectively locks everything else. Its quick and easy. It will take a lot of time to get though that one lock...If they have that much time, chances are they have all the time in the world. Bothering to put a second lock on the actual drawer is point less. Its going to just insure more damage to deal with later.

My strategy is let them have at the front if they are bold enough to break a window to get in. Most thieves that break a window will riffle through the glove box, under seats, console and be gone. I will put my real valuables like camera's in back and make it so they are going to need heavy tools like a cutting torch to even get at the back door.

[Grim Reaper]

Really? I thought that was the point of Lo-Jack. So what exactly does it do?
Lojack has to have local police support. Unless things have changed it is not GPS. Its a low output transmit receiver. You report the car stolen and the police activate the Lo Jack. Then a police car equipped with lo Jack has an antenna array on the roof. If the system in the police car See's an activated Lo Jack it will start beeping and it has a circle of LED's that give the officer the general direction of the vehicle. The faster it beeps the closer you are.

So it has to be supported by the police otherwise it does nothing. So South of the boarder or in a podunk town...Not going to do you much good.

[HenryJ]

This looked like the best thread for this post.

I finally "invested" in one of these- HitchSafe (http://www.hitchsafe.com) - Animation (http://www.hitchsafe.com/HSanimation.gif) - Graphic (http://www.hitchsafe.com/Photos/Explodeview.jpg)

http://www.hitchsafe.com/Photos/Dials.jpg

Many times we leave the vehicle hiking , boating, exploring, shopping, etc.
I usually carry the keys with me. I have never been a fan of the magnetic key boxes and this offers a more secure method of carrying valuables, as well as a key. I used to carry a spare remote in the tool box as well as a spare key. When the toolbox is locked they would be difficult to obtain.
Now when we go hiking I can drop the keys in the safe and who ever in our party makes it back to the vehicle can get the key to open the truck. No worries of sinking or losing the keys.

The install was fast. It takes only minutes. Fit and finish are very good. Gaskets are supplied to keep it fitting snugly. Plenty of extra to fit all hitches I would guess.

When I am towing a trailer it will go in the front hitch. When I have the winch on the front it can go into the receiver mount for the winch. Always a place for it :D

Pretty pricey at $70

I have thought about this one for quite a while though. I came across some "mad money", so this was my madness :cool:

[skysix]

When backpacking or hiking I will usually leave a note stuck in my window.

"John, I have your extra ammo and the Winchester, will meet you back here.

Later, Steve"

No dates, no times, just that some guy with guns and ammo will be back soon.
Haven't had my rig broke into yet.:gunt:

also have a steering wheel club.

:victory:

[Cabrito]

I thought I would revive this old thread after reading about the Ravelco device in this thread - http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47238
It was mentioned how the steering wheel club can be used to break the steering column. It's also known to be easy to cut through the steering wheel to remove the club. I've seen it on a friends car.
This brings me to my current solution - the Pedal Jack http://www.autosportcatalog.com/images/originals/25106_pedal_jack.jpg
After finding out first hand how older Toyota's can be started with a key from other Toyota's these brake pedal locks were suggested to me. one of the theories is that a thief could get one off eventually but would probably pass since he would have to be bent over with his backside exposed and totally defenseless while trying to remove it.
I don't leave home without mine.
http://www.autosportcatalog.com/pedal-jack-anti-theft-device.cfm?green=9570345433

[dzzz]

Why can't the thief drive the car and use the handbrake?

[Cabrito]

Why can't the thief drive the car and use the handbrake?

That's actually a really good question. Why don't you try it out and let me know how well it works. I'll let you borrow my lock if you want.
Nothing is really theft proof.

[rezdiver]

it would make more sense to put that device on the gas pedal..

[dzzz]

Anyone who has done performance driving has used the handbrake to do slides. Handbrakes on sporty cars are set up to do that. I wouldn't be comfortable driving a floor type "handbrake", but I'm not a car thief either.

[Redline]

Yes, the parking brake can be used for ‘performance driving’, but they are much more difficult to use for 'normal driving'.

Unless a thief knows he is being followed/chased they generally want to avoid detection. Driving with a parking brake probably wouldn't allow for normal control, attracting unwanted attention in most circumstances.

I would like to have something similar to this brake pedal device or The Club as an added deterrent/inhibitor for the rare times I want to leave my car running with the key in it, locked, to have the A/C on for my dogs.

Of course a more desirable feature would be something similar to the devise that’s wired into the ignition circuit on my old F350. Not only is it a traditional kill switch when flipped, and an idle control timer, it allows one to keep the engine running, pull the key and walk away. If the brake pedal is touched the engine stops and you need the key to restart the engine.


Anyone who has done performance driving has used the handbrake to do slides. Handbrakes on sporty cars are set up to do that. I wouldn't be comfortable driving a floor type "handbrake", but I'm not a car thief either.

[greg mgm]

Why can't the thief drive the car and use the handbrake?

On newer automatics you can't shift into gear without having your foot on the brake pedal. I don't know what would break if you tried forcing the shift lever. Of course this doesn't apply to manuals.

[Borrego60]

I use the Law Man lock that goes on the brake pedal. If you can not push down the pedal the truck will not go into drive. I also have other devices I use but will not discuss.

[AYIAPhoto]

Why can't the thief drive the car and use the handbrake?You can but as said it's not very subtle, not to mention the lack of brake lights drawing attention.
On newer automatics you can't shift into gear without having your foot on the brake pedal.Actually you can. On most cars you can turn the key to the "unlock" position(ACC/unlock/run/start) and move the shifter to neutral. Once in neutral you can start the car and place it in gear. The shift interlock only works in park.

[Borrego60]

You can but as said it's not very subtle, not to mention the lack of brake lights drawing attention.Actually you can. On most cars you can turn the key to the "unlock" position(ACC/unlock/run/start) and move the shifter to neutral. Once in neutral you can start the car and place it in gear. The shift interlock only works in park.

Not on a tundra,at least not on mine. You have to depress the pedal about an inch or more to disengage the parking lever.

[rezdiver]

have a good look at your brake pedal, there should be some type of electrical pressure or contact switch some where mid pedal or up to the top that will engage or disengage the tranny interlock wich can be pressed using your hand or wires jumped to disengage the tranny lock. most thieves know about this.

[Victorian]

I was thinking of installing some Barrel locks on the inside of our Eurovan camper. At least it will make it tougher to get inside for the banditos :ylsmoke:
http://marketplaceadvisor.channeladvisor.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=78392&c=306393&i=8141767