1992 Montero LS -NEW OWNER!

[mnutz]

I guess I should say "soon to be new owner". I finally found a replacement for my Pathfinder. In the true spirit of adventure I'm taking the train 6 hours to pick it up. The owner has been really great with making the transaction easy. I'll post more pics when I get it back. I'm really excited!

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv223/mnutz1970/Montero_004edit.jpg

[speedtre]

I finally found a replacement for my Pathfinder. In the true spirit of adventure I'm taking the train 6 hours to pick it up. The owner has been really great with making the transaction easy. I'll post more pics when I get it back.

Congratz! I love Train trips, reminds me of taking the train to visit my grandparents in the country when I was a kid.

[LaOutbackTrail]

schweet! I'm probably going to do a fly and drive whenever I find my Monty, soon!

[mnutz]

Congratz! I love Train trips, reminds me of taking the train to visit my grandparents in the country when I was a kid.

Yeah I've never taken the train, I'm excited about it!

[mnutz]

The trip was great, lots of fun. Truck drove perfect all the away back. I'll get some pics up ASAP. Couple issues...

1. Sometimes when you turn the key you get no start. Full battery power and all, just no starter crank. Just back out the key and try again, and it always starts on the second try. The owner says it has done that for about 3 years.

2. The sunroof will not open. Burned up motor? Or switch?

3. Truck has bouncy seats and headlamp washers, does this mean it should have LSD? Or is it anythings possible on 92s?

Thanks everyone!

Just remembered one more thing. Are these factory alloys really only 6 inches wide? So I'm limited to 30x9.5x15 until I get some wider wheels?

[off-roader]

1. Sometimes when you turn the key you get no start. Full battery power and all, just no starter crank. Just back out the key and try again, and it always starts on the second try. The owner says it has done that for about 3 years.
You may need a new ignition switch. Takes all of 15 minutes to replace if that's it. The switch is available at parts stores for ~$30 May also be a bad connection to the starter but I doubt it. If it is bad, let me know and I'll point you to a 'how to' thread for the fix.


2. The sunroof will not open. Burned up motor? Or switch?
Only way to know is to apply 12v to the motor wiring harness to see if it turns. May be either.


3. Truck has bouncy seats and headlamp washers, does this mean it should have LSD? Or is it anythings possible on 92s?
Look for an LSD Additive required sticker on the drivers door area (may be on the door or the door threshold). Also look for one on the diff housing.
Worst case scenario, lift the rear end and suspend it on jack stands. Release the ebrake. turn the rear tire by hand. check the other tire. if both are rotating the same direction you have an LSD. if they rotate opposite directions you have an open diff.:ylsmoke:


Just remembered one more thing. Are these factory alloys really only 6 inches wide? So I'm limited to 30x9.5x15 until I get some wider wheels? May be. Some are and some aren't. The size may be stamped on the 'brake' side of the rim. If not, it will be stamped inside the rim.

[mires]

Congrats on the new truck. Make sure to get those pics up when you get chance.

[mnutz]

Well, I bought this truck Friday when it was warm out. Drove it 6 hours home on a sunny day, got so hot I had the windows down. Stupid me never tried the heat or defrost. So tonight I drove an hour away with outside temp of 15 degrees F. No heat at all, no defrost either. Dang cold drive, glad the windshield stayed clear. Where do I start?

[off-roader]

Thats pretty unusual.

Check if the rubber lines that go from the back of the engine to the heater core are still there. There are 2 of them. Each is about 1" thick in dia.

There are also similar lines in the passenger compartment going from the firewall to the heater core.

Also check the level / condition of the coolant.

[mnutz]

Thats pretty unusual.

Check if the rubber lines that go from the back of the engine to the heater core are still there. There are 2 of them. Each is about 1" thick in dia.

There are also similar lines in the passenger compartment going from the firewall to the heater core.

Also check the level / condition of the coolant.

The heater hoses are all there and they look good. The coolant level is good, but it looks really old and cruddy. Also there is a little gunk around the upper radiator hose, and a little coolant sitting along the top of the radiator. Possibly a leaky upper hose and/or radiator cap? Could the system needing a flush and new thermostat cause the no heat condition? On the 6 hour drive home Friday the temp guage hovered right at or just below the half-way mark, outside temps were about 60 degrees. Last night on the 1 hour drive in 15 degree weather the temp guage never got out of the cold mark, when I got off the highway and let it idle it moved up just barely out of the cold. The air coming out of the heater is just SLIGHTLY warmer than the vent/outside air. If it was 15 out, maybe the heater cranked was blowing 25 degree air at me. You could feel a difference, but it was still cold air, not warm enough to warrant having the heat on at all.

[off-roader]

I'd flush it. With that much crud in the system it could be blocking flow to the heater core.

[mnutz]

I bought Prestone Super Flush, new coolant, new thermostat, upper radiator hose, and radiator cap this evening. Tomorrow I will do all that see if it brings my heat back!

[mnutz]

Just remembered one more thing. Are these factory alloys really only 6 inches wide? So I'm limited to 30x9.5x15 until I get some wider wheels?


I took the spare off today to do some cleaning. On the back of the wheel it is stamped 15x6, that's no good. The factory alloys are Enkeis, thought that was interesting!

[BIGdaddy]

I bought Prestone Super Flush, new coolant, new thermostat, upper radiator hose, and radiator cap this evening. Tomorrow I will do all that see if it brings my heat back!


thermostat is the likely culprit, IMO...

It was the problem with my Jeep not getting warm, too. I looked fine, but once the new one was in, it warmed like a champ. If it gets stuck closed, it doesn't allow all that nice warm coolant to flow like it should through the system. The engine would also run cool, if this were the case.

any codes you can pull?

Should be an OBDI system, which in most SUV's of that era (mines a 1992) should allow for a technique to read them without a tool.

For example, if I switch my ignition on/off three times, the engine check light blinks out any available codes. If there's none to read, it blinks 5-5.

[off-roader]

thermostat is the likely culprit, IMO...

It was the problem with my Jeep not getting warm, too. I looked fine, but once the new one was in, it warmed like a champ. If it gets stuck closed, it doesn't allow all that nice warm coolant to flow like it should through the system. The engine would also run cool, if this were the case.

any codes you can pull?

Should be an OBDI system, which in most SUV's of that era (mines a 1992) should allow for a technique to read them without a tool.

For example, if I switch my ignition on/off three times, the engine check light blinks out any available codes. If there's none to read, it blinks 5-5.

Thermostat is a possibility but if it gets warm enough to get the temp gauge to half way, then it should be warm enough to get warm air in the cabin when the heater is turned on (unless the gauge/sender is also bad).

On my 96, my 3 middle vents also have levers underneath them that control if Fresh Air or 'Heated' air is used. If yours also has them, then it may be these levers are in the wrong position or they are broken & flaps they control are stuck in the Fresh Air position.

[mnutz]

Did the coolant flush this afternoon. The fluid I got out was BAD, looked really dark. The thermostat was stuck open, I could not physically make it close all the way. Installed new thermostat, new rad cap and hoses, filled coolant back up. Now I got hot heat! Plenty of it! Bad news, the overflow tubes were completely plugged with greasy gunk. I cleaned everything out, then realized the coolant I was seeing on top of the radiator... well, the radiator is split open along the top seam. Not sure what to think now...

[off-roader]

Did the coolant flush this afternoon. The fluid I got out was BAD, looked really dark. The thermostat was stuck open, I could not physically make it close all the way. Installed new thermostat, new rad cap and hoses, filled coolant back up. Now I got hot heat! Plenty of it! Bad news, the overflow tubes were completely plugged with greasy gunk. I cleaned everything out, then realized the coolant I was seeing on top of the radiator... well, the radiator is split open along the top seam. Not sure what to think now...

You can have the radiator fixed for a relatively inexpensive amount. Having it rodded for ex. would be no more than $300 and that's here in Ca. where the environmental fees will raise the cost tremendously. Alternatively you can buy a used one in good condition on car-part.com for cheap too.

Grease/oil in the overflow is troubling. Possibly a head gasket issue sometime in the past. Do you know the engine history? If not immediately ask the seller. At this point you prob can't return it but you can at least learn what to expect in the future.

[mnutz]

Well, the truck is running great since the coolant flush. No new problems have sprung up and I've been wheelin' it a lot.

Haven't been able to make much sense out of the previous owners history report. He says that last year it stopped running completely, wouldn't start. He was gonna get rid of it as the miles were really high (200k+) and he'd had it a long time. A friend of a friend turned him on to a mechanic friend, and he says he replaced the crankshaft?! And it's run great since. Hmmm, I don't know about all that... but like I said it runs strong and nice. Still does the intermittant no-start thing, maybe every 5th time I try to start it, but I just back off the key and it always starts right up the 2nd try. The start is instant and snappy, sounds great, idles great. A little whitish smoke at start-up, even on warmer days, but the smoke goes away as soon as the engine gets up to temp. Coolant is staying clean since the flush, its got a couple little oil leaks though, not serious ones. I'll sort those out in the spring cause I don't have a garage and it is COLD here! Mechanically and electric wise it all seems solid.

The heater blower motor makes a terrible racket, and it seems like the lever for fresh air/re-circulate does nothing, I think it stuck in the fresh air mode. My defrost is super hot, but the vent air is not quite as hot. The radiator does have that small leak on the top tank seam, I've seen replacements with metal tanks as low as $140.

All in all I'm very happy, I think it'll be great to start upgrading this spring. First in line is a t-bar crank and some 33x10.5 BFG KM2s. I hate to have to buy new wheels, I wonder if those alloys are actually 6.5", and I could squeeze 10.5s on 'em?

[off-roader]

Well, the truck is running great since the coolant flush. No new problems have sprung up and I've been wheelin' it a lot.

Good to hear that.


Haven't been able to make much sense out of the previous owners history report. He says that last year it stopped running completely, wouldn't start. He was gonna get rid of it as the miles were really high (200k+) and he'd had it a long time. A friend of a friend turned him on to a mechanic friend, and he says he replaced the crankshaft?! And it's run great since. Hmmm, I don't know about all that... but like I said it runs strong and nice.
Ask who the mechanic was. Say you'd like to replace the radiator. Then find out from the mechanic what was really done. The crankshaft replacement would be a major piece of work and frankly I rarely hear of them going bad. In fact your story is the first one I've heard of having to replace one. It is possible the owner didn't remember exactly what was replaced.


Still does the intermittant no-start thing, maybe every 5th time I try to start it, but I just back off the key and it always starts right up the 2nd try. The start is instant and snappy, sounds great, idles great.

Experienced that before. 2x. 1st was a bad starter (brushes needed to be replaced). 2nd was a bad ignition switch.


A little whitish smoke at start-up, even on warmer days, but the smoke goes away as soon as the engine gets up to temp.
Do this. When it's warmed up, like after a 15-20 min. drive, park the car with the engine running. Let it idle for 5 minutes. Do nothing to the gas pedal. Just let it idle. After 5, rev the engine. IF smoke billows from the tailpipe, you have bad valve guide seals. Can be replaced without having to do the valves (they're usually good and won't need replacing anyway) using the LP Air or Rope trick. Cost is usually around $700. You don't have to do this but it will coat your catalytic converter and make it inoperable. This may impact any smog testing thats required by your state.


The heater blower motor makes a terrible racket, and it seems like the lever for fresh air/re-circulate does nothing, I think it stuck in the fresh air mode. My defrost is super hot, but the vent air is not quite as hot.
yup. My forecast tells me you'll be tearing into your hvac system soon to fix that or will simply learn to put up with it.


The radiator does have that small leak on the top tank seam, I've seen replacements with metal tanks as low as $140.
I prefer OEM replacements myself and would consider a used one from car-part.com before buying a new non-oem one but that's just me. :)


All in all I'm very happy, I think it'll be great to start upgrading this spring. First in line is a t-bar crank and some 33x10.5 BFG KM2s. I hate to have to buy new wheels, I wonder if those alloys are actually 6.5", and I could squeeze 10.5s on 'em?
They will & others I know run them but BFG recommends a 7-9" wide rim. Most shops will not mount them due to liability issues.

[oryxexpeditions]

The crankshaft replacement would be a major piece of work and frankly I rarely hear of them going bad.

Actually it's a more common problem than you would think on these motors. There's a design flaw in the harmonic balancer which eventually ruins the crankshaft snout. I had a 1994 Montero with this problem. Had chronic problems with it and finally broke down on a trip to the Grand Canyon in it and paid 1000.00 to have it fixed, temporarily. The dealer told me that the crank snout was bent and the whole thing would have to be replaced eventually. So, I ended up selling the truck.

David

[mnutz]

Actually it's a more common problem than you would think on these motors. There's a design flaw in the harmonic balancer which eventually ruins the crankshaft snout. I had a 1994 Montero with this problem. Had chronic problems with it and finally broke down on a trip to the Grand Canyon in it and paid 1000.00 to have it fixed, temporarily. The dealer told me that the crank snout was bent and the whole thing would have to be replaced eventually. So, I ended up selling the truck.

David

This is similar to what the previous owner told me, that when it happened his estimate was $2500 for the repair, but he found someone to do it in his driveway for much less.

I guess time will tell, but it all seems good right now anyway!

[mnutz]

Ask who the mechanic was. Say you'd like to replace the radiator. Then find out from the mechanic what was really done.

Yeah, I'm trying to find out how to contact the mechanic.



Experienced that before. 2x. 1st was a bad starter (brushes needed to be replaced). 2nd was a bad ignition switch.

Hope it's the ignition switch!


Do this. When it's warmed up, like after a 15-20 min. drive, park the car with the engine running. Let it idle for 5 minutes. Do nothing to the gas pedal. Just let it idle. After 5, rev the engine. IF smoke billows from the tailpipe, you have bad valve guide seals. Can be replaced without having to do the valves (they're usually good and won't need replacing anyway) using the LP Air or Rope trick. Cost is usually around $700. You don't have to do this but it will coat your catalytic converter and make it inoperable. This may impact any smog testing thats required by your state.

We don't have smog testing here in the great state of Nebraska!


yup. My forecast tells me you'll be tearing into your hvac system soon to fix that or will simply learn to put up with it.

I don't think I can put up with it, wish I had a garage! It's cold out!


Thanks for all your input off-roader! I've followed your posts here and on the wire, you've got a lot of Mitsu knowledge!

[tanglefoot]

On the wheel width, I have run 31x10.50 tires on 15x6 wheels for quite a while. I love the look and the handling, have had no troubles, and the tire shop never mentioned a thing.

Eric

[mnutz]

On the wheel width, I have run 31x10.50 tires on 15x6 wheels for quite a while. I love the look and the handling, have had no troubles, and the tire shop never mentioned a thing.

Eric

That's great to hear! I agree the wheel/tire combo on your rig does look good!