Notes From the PanAmerican

[rockandroll]

Like half of the active posters here in this sub-forum we're a couple heading down the PanAmerican Highway for the duration of 2011. We left directly from San Francisco on 1/4/11 and expect the trip to take one year (15 months is the new estimate!).


Here's our blog: PanAmNotes.com (http://panamnotes.com/)
"Like" us on Facebook: Here (http://www.facebook.com/PanAmNotes)
Twitter: @LPribbeno (http://twitter.com/LPribbeno)

Our names are Logan (27) and Brianna (25). We had been living and working in San Francisco for the last 4 years. We both learned quick that city living and cubicle work was not sustainable for either of us and started to save simultaneously for a major trip and relocation. Also, we are recently engaged and will be getting married in Costa Rica! This trip is our nontraditional honeymoon.


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Brianna and Logan in Big Sur California

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The Beast newly pieced together in San Francisco

Our equipment, a 2003 4x4 Tundra equipped with a 2007 Palomino Bronco 800. So far we love the setup. ExPo was a major help in the preparations and you can read more about them here: Tundra Preparation (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51917) and Camper Preparation (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51919). Our theory on the equipment was KISS (keep it simple stupid). No lift, no off-road lights, no custom bumpers, as little bells and whistles possible. (Nothing against them, I had them all and more on my beloved Wrangler I sold to help finance the trip). Time will tell, but I am pleased to have this as our 4x4 camper all for under $19k.

Right now we are staying in San Diego and plan to enter into Mexico on 1/15. We hope to get a bit of distance between the border and us in the first day and stay at Coyote Cal's in Erendira, Baja California, 78 kilometers south of Ensenada. We are very excited for Baja. Talk safety all you want, we're both big fans of Mexico, having visited more than 10 times in the last 10 years. :sombrero:

Happy to answer any questions and receive suggestions. We'd also love to meet up with any fellow overland travelers while on the road.

Subscribe and enjoy the ride!


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The Beast playing in the sand in Costa Rica

[X-plorenow]

Good luck to both of you, and congrats on your engagement. I am very jealous, I wish we could take a year to explore. I will also be pin San Fran in 6 months. Hope to see you around.

[TwoTrack]

Sounds like you guys are going to have a great time! Im jealous! :) Be safe and enjoy!

[Christian P.]

Glad to see that we have other people doing the same trip!!! You will love it.

Stay tuned for more info - I am putting together a permanent thread with the border crossing info.

[JerryYukon]

Christian............real happy to hear that you're putting something together for the C.A. border crossings. I swear I read all these threads and it doesn't worry me, it just makes me cross eyed and my head spin. So, thanks in advance. Be safe.

Jerry

[rockandroll]

Everything is holding up well. Spent a few nights camping along the beach here: http://www.findmespot.com/mylocation/?id=47-7B

Absolutely gorgeous and all for $5/night. A wonderful bar called Ana's is on the same beach (Playa Santispac). If you're Baja bound, I'd stop in for a few days.


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[silvElise]

Congrats on realizing your joys in life and doing it......
Also congrats on your engagement!

Cant wait to see what coes of this thread.

[Petrolburner]

Awesome! Can't wait to see more!

[coax]

Yep looks like a great start to an epic trip. Looking forward to future updates!

[defrag4]

Another couple out of San Francisco down the PanAm! :smiley_drive:

Something about this city just makes us want to drive as far south as physically possible

Will be following closely!

[trailsurfer]

Great Updates you guys.

[Mr. D]

Have a great, fun safe time.

[rockandroll]

We ferried to Mazatlan last night using TMC Ferries ($300 for a Tundra and 2 people, they let/requite you stay in your car/rv). In a sentence: we loved Baja. Interestingly, 90% of the folks we ran into were Canadian and mostly an older crowd (65 year old average). Here is our top 4 spots for any overlander looking to explore Baja.

# Bahia Concepcion (Playa Santispac) - $5/night. Gorgeous, dispersed camping right at the water's edge. This area has bathrooms and supposedly hot showers (we never found the showers, although we didn't try too hard). If you can make it to this place on a Saturday night you're in for a treat. There is a restaurant/bar (Ana's) on the beach and all the campers (mostly 50+ years old) sure know how to party!

# San Ignacio - we stayed at Rice & Beans RV park for the electrical hook ups, but we recommend staying closer to town at Camping Petates (right by the lagoon). From there you can walk to town. Pay a visit to the lady who runs Casa Leree (a blue colored hotel near the town plaza) and she'll give you free hiking maps for the area.

# Coyote Cal's (Ejido Erendira) - this is a gringo run hostel/camping site, $10/person. They've got a nice crowd during the weekend, it's a great/remote area to spend a few days after crossing the border. 8 miles of dirt/gravel road to get there, but it's not bad at all. You can rent surfboards/mountain bikes/etc and you can't beat the view from your campsite, check out the website: http://www.coyotecals.com/

# Playa Telcote (Near La Paz) - Free dispersed camping on the beach. Picture's worth a thousand words:


http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3959/img7707m.jpg

Hope this helps you in your planning and adventure seeking,

PS. Thanks for all of the comments! And yes defrag4, there seems to be something about San Francisco that makes a person want to drive to the ends of the earth. Go figure.

[rockandroll]

After ferrying across to Mazatlan, we've spent just over a week traveling down Mex 200. Many of the beachside restrants along the way will let you camp out back for a small fee. While we have found some hidden gems, the quality of the road and overnight stops leave us envious of Baja. None-the-less, we press on at an accelerated pace to arrive in Central America with ample time to explore the more distant cultures. Here are some pictures (http://panamnotes.com/2011/02/central-mainland-mexico/) of Mex 200 in Central Mexico. We hope to be crossing into Guatemala by 2/17.

We're stationed here north of Alcapulco for the 3rd day now at a campground with electricity. Everything is holding up quite well with the equipment, the only failure so far is the 120AC-DC charger for our Duracell Powerpack 600. With a current overnight low of 70 degrees, the thing we're most thankful for is the A/C in the truck camper, something I debated removing (due to weight and elec usage) while back home!

What else do the fine readers of ExPo want to know?

[Darwin]

What generator did you take to power the AC?

[rockandroll]

What generator did you take to power the AC?

Hey Darwin, thanks for asking.

We are without a generator. When camping we've been able to get plugged into electrical more than half of the time. We brought along a 100' extension cord which we ask (pay) to have plugged in when camping out by a restaurant or other business when close to civilization.

Definitely not necessary, but a nice creature comfort.

[trailsurfer]

What kind of mileage are you getting? And what are your likes and dislikes about the truck and camper?

[trailsurfer]

What kind of mileage are you getting? And what are your likes and dislikes about the truck and camper?

One more, how has the surfing been?

[rockandroll]

What kind of mileage are you getting? And what are your likes and dislikes about the truck and camper?

One more, how has the surfing been?

I've been getting 14-16MPG, been better than expected mostly due to the low speed limits on Mexican Highways (typically only 60km/h).

We love the truck camper and are very pleased we went this route. Had I done this trip with a fishing buddy or similar, other facilities may be more practical. But with my finacee it's a wonderful thing to have.

On the downside, we weighed the truck and are over the limit by ~600lbs fully loaded (assuming the scale is accurate we weigh 7,050lbs). Nothing to complain of specifically, but it sure would be nice to not be hauling such a load over these pot-hole-ridden highways.

Lastly, the surf has been excellent. The real treat is not bumping shoulders with your fellow surfers. The most crowded break I've surfed yet had only 3 other surfers.

YouTube - The Mexican Pipeline

[trailsurfer]

Thanks for the reply. I have surfed in Mexico a bunch, and it is incredible. The only problem is that it ruins you for surfing back here in the USA.

Have fun and travel safe.

[coydogsf]

Hey Logan and Brianna,

Wait 'til you get down here to El Salvador. We're in El Tunco - surfer's heaven.

Also, our AC adapter for the Duracell Powerpack went out as well! Fortunately, the DC (and thus the solar) still works and we can just charge it while driving.

Have a great trip. We're leapfrogging with 5 or 6 overland couples at the moment (most of whom are here in El Tunco now) so let us know if you need any route/hotel/camping info about the road ahead.

Dave

[Darwin]

where did you guys stay while you were in Puerto Escondido?

[rockandroll]

Hey Logan and Brianna,

Wait 'til you get down here to El Salvador. We're in El Tunco - surfer's heaven.

Also, our AC adapter for the Duracell Powerpack went out as well! Fortunately, the DC (and thus the solar) still works and we can just charge it while driving.

Have a great trip. We're leapfrogging with 5 or 6 overland couples at the moment (most of whom are here in El Tunco now) so let us know if you need any route/hotel/camping info about the road ahead.

Dave

Thanks for the info! We've been following your blog and I think we have Guatemala figured out (Lake Atitlan followed by Antigua then on to El Salvador). What spots do you recommend in El Salvador? We will definitely check out El Tunco.

I imagine our paths will cross sooner rather than later as we're planning on being in Tamarindo Costa Rica one month from now to meet up with some family/tie the knot!

[rockandroll]

where did you guys stay while you were in Puerto Escondido?

Darwin, We stayed at Cabanas El Eden (campground) centrally located in the center of Playa Zicatela. PE earns our 'most likely to return to' award for Mexico. Highly recommend.

[coydogsf]

Thanks for the info! We've been following your blog and I think we have Guatemala figured out (Lake Atitlan followed by Antigua then on to El Salvador). What spots do you recommend in El Salvador? We will definitely check out El Tunco.

I imagine our paths will cross sooner rather than later as we're planning on being in Tamarindo Costa Rica one month from now to meet up with some family/tie the knot!

Tikal in Guatemala is pretty cool if you can make it happen though it's a little out of the way if you're on the west coast. So far, El Tunco's been all we've seen of El Salvador but we're planning on heading up to Bosque El Impossible in the next few days (based on recommendations by Luis and Lacey) and then maybe up through the coffee plantations into Honduras.
Sounds like your makin' tracks tho. If so, definitely take the coastal route through El Salvador. Beautiful coast.

We'd love to meet up and a month from now in Costa Rica sounds perfect (congrats BTW). We should be there around then as well as a number of other overlanders (Tree and Stevie - SprinterLife (http://sprinterlife.com), Chad and Emily - PleasureDevice (http://pleasuredevice.wordpress.com/), maybe Espen and Malin - UnUrban (http://www.unurban.no) to name a few).

Dave

[rockandroll]

We're stationed at the Hotel Vision Azul for the next few days where you can camp on the lake shore. The owner has renovated the place and thus the fee's have gone up to $10 per person per night. Expensive by Guatemala standards but includes wifi, elec, kayaks, and warm showers.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3695/img7937z.jpg

One thing we wish we would have taken along are 2 mountain bikes. For anybody taking along a truck camper or equivalent, I'd highly recommend figuring out a solution to mount two bikes safely. We ran into a Swiss couple in a class C traveling south who gave us the idea. They claim to use them almost every day for exploration and to just get around.

The border crossing into Guatemala was hectic but straightforward once you got in front of the right window. Here's a good write-up (http://blog.unurban.no/#post55) from the unURBAN guys.

Next we're on to the free campground at the Tourist Police Yard in Antigua. Looking forward too free camping (and wifi). Pana is a bit touristy and thus, not cheap.

[JCMatthews]

Great posts guys. Things sound to be going great. How are the truck and camper holding up? Hope all goes well. Enjoy.

[rockandroll]

Great posts guys. Things sound to be going great. How are the truck and camper holding up? Hope all goes well. Enjoy.

Everything is holding up fine thanks for asking; the engine oil is even still golden.

[rockandroll]

We crossed into El Salvador earlier this week. The border crossing was not as bad as we had expected. We used this write-up (http://motoadventuregal.com/blog/2010/01/border-crossing-guatemala-el-salvador/)to guide us through with success. We actually ended up using the "helpers" at this border (2 for $5 each). When we arrived the 2 lane road to the border was blocked for about a mile with 4 lanes of parked trucks. They got us through, well worth the $10 cost to us. The El Salvadorian border is just as tedious as everybody makes it out to be, but a smile and good attitude got us through quickly.

These three stops in El Salvador were outstanding and come highly recommended:

1: Parque Nacional El Imposible. Camping is free with your $3/pp entry fee. We didn’t have to engage 4wd on the 14km access road, but having a high clearance vehicle is a must. Once in the park you can explore the lookout tower near camp and the many sites at the end of the hiking trails.

Click here for more photos and info (http://panamnotes.com/2011/03/parque-nacional-el-imposible/).


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2: Playa El Tunco. This one’s for the surfers. 4 great brakes within a short walk of this small village. We stayed at El Sombre for $15/night. They have secure parking for 2 vehicles.


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3: Alegria. This is a quaint mountain town in the Eastern portion of the country. There are a few sites to see in the surrounding area such as Laguna de Alegria, a crater lake two kilometers outside of town, but the main itinerary item in Alegria is to relax under the shadows of the volcanoes.

Hope you enjoy everything!

PS. Now that we've got over 4,000 miles on the odometer, I'm drafting a post on the viability of a 1st Generation Tundra as an overland platform (pop-up truck camper viability will be later). What questions do you have or what would you like to know?

[trailsurfer]

Thanks for the update. Looks like you all are having a great time.

[rockandroll]

Well, the crux of the trip, the El Amatillo border crossing is now behind us. We went from Alegria El Salvador to Esteli Nicaruaga on a Sunday and did not run into much trouble. We did pay one $10 bribe for a lack of reflective tape and learned a lot.

We came well prepared and created a PDF guide out of our experiences to assist those that follow. This appears to be the worst border crossing in the Western Hemisphere and we are glad we can shed some light on it.

Click here for our tale and our PDF guide for getting through. (http://panamnotes.com/2011/03/one-day-through-honduras/)

This guide also covers the El Espino border crossing to get into Nicaragua.



http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8862/hontb.jpg
The infamous Blue Building

[rockandroll]

After Honduras we spent some good time in Nicaragua. Honestly, 2 years ago I don't think either of us could have placed Nica on a map. Now as overlanders these are the places we look forward to the most. You can read more up on our time in Nica here (http://panamnotes.com/2011/03/nica-where/) and here (http://panamnotes.com/2011/03/nica-where/). We found Nicaragua to be safe, beautiful, and cheap! The only downside was the limited camping options compared with it's northern neighbors and southern neighbor, Costa Rica.

Fast-forward and We're now almost complete with our two week "break" from overlanding in Tamarindo Costa Rica where we stayed in a condo with my folks. The highlights here were getting married and well getting MARRIED!


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From here we will slow our pace considerably, spending another 4-5 weeks in Costa Rica and Panama before shipping across the darien gap.

[rockandroll]

After researching the Nicaragua/Costa Rica border crossing and Penas Blancas we expected chaos (but not corruption as in Honduras). There were a lot more steps and agents involved than we've come to be accustomed to with the other crossing. However, armed with a smile and patience, we made it and created another guide to help the overlanding community through.

Read about our experience/guide here (http://panamnotes.com/2011/03/nicaragua-to-costa-rica/).

International overland requires a healthy dose of optimism. Despite this there are a few disasters we constantly entertain such as failing transmissions, crooked policemen, identity theft, and the need for medical assistance in a foreign land. We had the opportunity to experience the latter when I discovered a metal sliver embedded in his cornea while in Costa Rica.

Upon this discovery I expected the worse: 3rd world doctors poking at my eye for hours on end and being presented with a $500 medico bill for the shoddy efforts.

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4174/img4890g.jpg

Our experience was quite the opposite. A professional, English-speaking doctor was able to remove the metal sliver in minutes for a flat fee of $50.

Read more at our blog here (http://panamnotes.com/2011/03/medico/).

[Ruined Adventures]

Not sure if anyone's mentioned it, but your "how-to" guides in pdf are awesome...we are downloading them all into a folder and they will be very valuable on the road.
:wings:
Thanks for the great resource! Keep em coming!
...oh yeah, congrats on getting married. You and coydogsf really know how to honeymoon :rally_guys:

[nctacoma]

Yes, the pdf's are a great useful tool for everyone doing this type trip
Congrats on getting hitched.
be sure to check out the Mal Pais Surf Camp while in CR. Good surf and really great people who would be happy to let you park on their property.

[rockandroll]

We are currently exploring the deep south of Costa Rica and each afternoon last week it dumped buckets on us. It has not fazed us as we hide out in our mobile base camp or hostel common areas leeching wifi and cafe gratis. The mornings are always clear and we are sure to seek adventure but find our way home before lunch. The evenings are a damp break from the oppressive heat. The downpour reinforces our repetitive dogma for overlanding: there is no perfect time. Just like five o’clock, it’s raining somewhere too, and coincidentally, both are great excuses for a sundowner.


http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/2289/img8830.jpg
Wet wooden ridge ahead

The camper, however, is not pleased. Before leaving California I spent a Saturday coating every seam with sealant, sparing no sealant as I opted for function over beauty. Despite this, we’re getting some water intrusion on the top front awning. I have crawled around the roof looking for any imperfections and it looks solid. I have even sought out answers here at ExPo, but have been warned this is an inevitable perk of from wood-framed club.


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Wet Siding

And then there are the roads. We have made it a point to get well off the beaten path in Costa Rica. In the weeks since leaving Tamarindo we have zigzagged between the mountains and the Pacific, getting deeper with each destination. Costa Rica is a small country, only about half the size of Kentucky, but the winding dirt roads give the impression of a vast nation. The paved roads are so riddled with potholes we are actually pleased when the pavement ends.

We may be a little wet but we are far from weary.

[rockandroll]

If Costa Rica is a traveler's dream, Panama is the land that overlander's dream about.

We crossed into Panama last week, having no issues at all with the border crossing. The funny business with the policia and border agents seems to transpire only between Guatemala and Nicaragua. Nontheless, we created a how-to for the crossing from Costa Rica into Panama. Even if there's is no funny business, it's needlessly complicated with all of the stamps, stickers, and authorizations you need. Check it out here (http://panamnotes.com/how-to/).

Once in Panama we made the easy drive to Boquete nestled in the foothills under Panama's highest peak, Volcan Baru. The mountain town is chock full of amenities and expat retirees. The real treasure however is Volcan Baru which you are allowed to drive all of the way to it's 11,398 foot summit if you've got the equipment. We had read this trip report (http://www.outscape.net/trip/archives/entries/rolling_the_jeep_on_volcan_baru.html) from 2001 and were curious to say the least.


http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3356/img9009q.jpg

With 31" tires and a 1,500 pound camper, we knew the entire 14 km trail was out of the question. We saw a few vehicles that made it up that day. All of them had 33-35 inch mudders and a healthy array of accessories.


http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/20/img8932.jpg

We made it 3 kms up the trail at which point we walked, wishing I had my old Jeep TJ with 33" tires and lockers. We camped that night at 7000', passed around a bottle of $6 rum, and sang John Denver songs. It was a grand old time.

After recovering in Boquete, we headed to Santa Catalina following rumors that this was the best surf in Panama. The road infrastructure off the PanAmerican has been poor at best. Throughout southern Costa Rica and Panama you'll be glad you have high clearance, good tires, and 4WD.


http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/3423/img9084q.jpg

We arrived in Santa Catalina and found ourselves the perfect spot across the river at the remote and quiet Oasis Surf Camp. We camped on the beach for $10/night and enjoyed the best surf we've had in Central America.


http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8615/img9023picnik.jpg


Other Posts to check out:

Costa Costa Rica Highlights (http://panamnotes.com/2011/04/coastal-costa-rica/) (lots of Pics)

On Choosing and Preparing a Pop-up Camper for International Expeditions (http://panamnotes.com/2011/04/pop-up-camper-expedition-prep/)

[RMP&O]

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8615/img9023picnik.jpg


Other Posts to check out:

Costa Costa Rica Highlights (http://panamnotes.com/2011/04/coastal-costa-rica/) (lots of Pics)

On Choosing and Preparing a Pop-up Camper for International Expeditions (http://panamnotes.com/2011/04/pop-up-camper-expedition-prep/)

Nice!

In the above picture, the large island is called Cebeco. On the tip or point of that island, which can be seen in your picture, is some of the best fishing in the whole area. I have knocked em' dead out there including a 45lb Wahoo, tons of Yellow Fin and the boatman speared a 75lb Red Snapper! There is also seculded beaches out there and secret surf spots. It is well worth a day trip out there. Ask around town, many boat captains will run you out there and take you fishing or whatever. I recommend Babalou though.

If you are up for some big adventure the bone yard on the way back to Sona is worth a visit, just follow your nose!

There is cheaper camping in Catalina, just a year ago Oasis was only $5 a night. Plus if you are on the town side of the river you don't have to deal with the tides. Rosalee (ask around town) will rent you a spot in her yard for well under $10/night.

Make sure and have dinner at No Worries one night, Alex & Juan-Carlos make the best and cheapest food in town.

.75 cent beers every day from 4-6pm at the Dive Stop, say hi to my good friends Glenn, Julie & Ben if you stop in. They also opperate the best dive shop in town which is right next door.

If you are into yoga, my friend Michele at La Buena Vida does classes, iirc Friday mornings on the beach. Their yoga deck is well worth a look and they have the best breakfast in town. Free wifi also available at La Buena Vida.

Across the street from La Buena Vida is the Library, in the same building is the bakery. Some excellent baked goods available here and well worth a stop one morning.

You really should go out to Isla Coiba. Any one who is in the area and skips out on seeing Coiba is well, missing out on much more than I can describe.

If you are an experienced surfer make sure and hit up The Point.

When you leave Catalina and get back to Sona. A very very cool drive through rural Panama is from Sona to the CA1 west. You just leave Sona west instead of heading for Santiago. After awhile the road will fork, stay left and do not head for Las Palmas. It is a really beautiful drive that takes a couple of hours. There is also plenty of places to camp along the road and along rivers too. Oh and the best rotisserie chicken I have ever had is in Sona. You can't miss it, half way through town on your right. $6 for a whole chicken!

A trip up to Santa Fe almost due north of Catalina/Santiago is well worht a few days. It is basically Boquete 20-30yrs ago. Ask around Catalina for more info.

The farmers market in Santiago is worth a stop if you like fresh fruits and veggies.

If you are in Panama for more than a month you can re-new your truck permit in Divisa instead of having to deal with Panama City. The aduana in Divisa is super mellow and takes about 15mins to get done. It is right on the CA-1 and you can't miss the offices.

My name is Ian, I just spent 3 months living in Catalina. You are welcome to toss my name around but I doubt it will get you any discounts, favors maybe, discounts unlikely!

[trailsurfer]

Really enjoying the trip updates.

[snohobo]

Nice!


If you are in Panama for more than a month you can re-new your truck permit in Divisa instead of having to deal with Panama City. The aduana in Divisa is super mellow and takes about 15mins to get done. It is right on the CA-1 and you can't miss the offices.
!

Hey! That's my local Aduana office you are talking about! Sure - they're a bit slow, and surly, and you have to wait for the hefe to get back from his coffee break to sign your paperwork - but it's a 30 min process at worst.

See ya'll soon!

[RMP&O]

Hey! That's my local Aduana office you are talking about! Sure - they're a bit slow, and surly, and you have to wait for the hefe to get back from his coffee break to sign your paperwork - but it's a 30 min process at worst.

See ya'll soon!

haha, no worries. I simply meant to say the one in Divisa is easy to find and Panama City can be interesting to find your way around the first time. Although I am sure you have got travelers taken care of which is awesome! :)

[rockandroll]

Nice!

In the above picture, the large island is called Cebeco. On the tip or point of that island, which can be seen in your picture, is some of the best fishing in the whole area. I have knocked em' dead out there including a 45lb Wahoo, tons of Yellow Fin and the boatman speared a 75lb Red Snapper! There is also seculded beaches out there and secret surf spots. It is well worth a day trip out there. Ask around town, many boat captains will run you out there and take you fishing or whatever. I recommend Babalou though.

If you are up for some big adventure the bone yard on the way back to Sona is worth a visit, just follow your nose!

There is cheaper camping in Catalina, just a year ago Oasis was only $5 a night. Plus if you are on the town side of the river you don't have to deal with the tides. Rosalee (ask around town) will rent you a spot in her yard for well under $10/night.

Make sure and have dinner at No Worries one night, Alex & Juan-Carlos make the best and cheapest food in town.

.75 cent beers every day from 4-6pm at the Dive Stop, say hi to my good friends Glenn, Julie & Ben if you stop in. They also opperate the best dive shop in town which is right next door.

If you are into yoga, my friend Michele at La Buena Vida does classes, iirc Friday mornings on the beach. Their yoga deck is well worth a look and they have the best breakfast in town. Free wifi also available at La Buena Vida.

Across the street from La Buena Vida is the Library, in the same building is the bakery. Some excellent baked goods available here and well worth a stop one morning.

You really should go out to Isla Coiba. Any one who is in the area and skips out on seeing Coiba is well, missing out on much more than I can describe.

If you are an experienced surfer make sure and hit up The Point.

When you leave Catalina and get back to Sona. A very very cool drive through rural Panama is from Sona to the CA1 west. You just leave Sona west instead of heading for Santiago. After awhile the road will fork, stay left and do not head for Las Palmas. It is a really beautiful drive that takes a couple of hours. There is also plenty of places to camp along the road and along rivers too. Oh and the best rotisserie chicken I have ever had is in Sona. You can't miss it, half way through town on your right. $6 for a whole chicken!

A trip up to Santa Fe almost due north of Catalina/Santiago is well worht a few days. It is basically Boquete 20-30yrs ago. Ask around Catalina for more info.

The farmers market in Santiago is worth a stop if you like fresh fruits and veggies.

If you are in Panama for more than a month you can re-new your truck permit in Divisa instead of having to deal with Panama City. The aduana in Divisa is super mellow and takes about 15mins to get done. It is right on the CA-1 and you can't miss the offices.

My name is Ian, I just spent 3 months living in Catalina. You are welcome to toss my name around but I doubt it will get you any discounts, favors maybe, discounts unlikely!

Wow! We've already moved onto Panama City. Info like this just goes to show you all that we miss. You'd think after traveling for a year you would see and experience a good deal. Wrong. Even the places like this where we stopped for 5 days, we missed _most_ of it.

[Roberto L]

Hi, we saw you last Sunday on the Pan American heading towards Panama City in one of the worst traffic jams I have seen in my life. Are you travelling to Colombia next? I live in Bogota and know the country quite well if you need any help.

[rockandroll]

Hi, we saw you last Sunday on the Pan American heading towards Panama City in one of the worst traffic jams I have seen in my life. Are you travelling to Colombia next? I live in Bogota and know the country quite well if you need any help.

That was some traffic we had. We stopped at Playa Palmar to wait it out. Colombia is up next! We will be in Cartagena this weekend.

Unfortunately we'll only have about 2 weeks to spend in the country as we have been delayed in shipping from Panama. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[Roberto L]

That was some traffic we had. We stopped at Playa Palmar to wait it out. Colombia is up next! We will be in Cartagena this weekend.

Unfortunately we'll only have about 2 weeks to spend in the country as we have been delayed in shipping from Panama. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Yes.... we had a plane to catch so we drove all the way to Panama City!! Two weeks is a short time for a big country!! How are you planning your travels? When is your car arriving to Cartagena?

[jorgec]

I jump here and give you some ideas, I am from Colombia living in the USA now. Colombia in 2 weeks, very difficult.

My son just came back from 3 months school and vacation so I ask him, his answer, you need a live time.

But here is our impute, Cartagena, Taganga, Tayrona, Riohacha, Maicao, Valledupar, Bucaramanga, Canon del Chicamocha ,Barichara, Villa de leiva (http://colombianhighlands.com/index.html) A Must, In Bogota Anders Carne de res a restaurant in Chia can’t miss that. Armenia (http://www.fincaixobel.com/), Cali, Popayán, Pasto and adiós Colombia. That would be basic ruta I would do. Let me know if you need any help at all I have friends a relative scatter around the country.

Good luck

Jorge

[rockandroll]

Our original plan had us shipping to Colombia on May 1st. The ocean god of Darian shipping had other plans. Panama Passage has been our base camp/home for 2 weeks now. Panama City was nice to spend a weekend in, but being an expensive city with daily heat indexes of 120 degrees, we are ready to move onto the altitude of South America. Luckily bad luck comes in three and we've already experienced our trifecta of bad luck.

#1: In April we contacted Tom and Jan of Adventurous Spirits (their ExPo (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46586&page=21)) and made plans to ship together in a 40' High Cube container together the first weekend of May. Tom fell into an abandoned well and fractured a couple ribs.

#2: We then planned to ship with a German couple in a beautiful pop-top 110 landy. They had a breakdown in Costa Rica and wouldn't make it in time.

#3: We opted to ship with Tom and Jan one week later on May 9th. We opted to go with Julio (with PSLI - Panama Soluciones Logisticas SA) on the recommendation of Panama Passage. We went through the multi-step process without a hitch, Julio leading the way. We leave the port of Colon by 1:30pm on our load day in high spirits planning on flying out the next day.

We get a call at 8:00PM that night letting us know that they are sure the trucks will fit. They will not load them as it is a risky loading the trucks themselves. We are not allowed on the port, so we can not load them. They will not be loaded onto the ship departing on the 9th one way or another... Back to square one.

Apparently we are the first pop-up truck campers to ship around the Darian Gap.

Julio has come to bat for us and tomorrow we will head back to Colon and attempt to load from a different port (there are 3 in Colon) and attempt to load the trucks ourselves with Julio's assembled team. If we don't fit we'll be loaded onto the $3,000 (:Wow1:) RoRo ship to Ecuador later that week.

[rockandroll]

Distance Traveled: 5,800 miles
San Francisco to Panama City
Average Mileage: 15 mpg
Number of Flat Tires: 0
Attempted Bribes: 3
Bribes Paid: 1 for $10
Bandits Encountered: 0
Robberies: 1 pair of hiking shoes – Guatemala border, 1 rosary – Colon Port
Breakdowns: 1 taillight out, 1 suspension airbag adjustment, 1 broken suspension bolt
Average Gas: $3.55/gallon
Percentage Miles on PanAm Proper: 32%
Average Cost Per Day: $39/person (gas, food, lodging, tours, etc)
Total Nights: 130
Nights Camped: 110
Nights in Hotel/Hostel: 20
Average Distance Two Americans Drive in 130 Days: 10,200 miles


Also,

Here's a video of the container loading process made by Adventurous Spirits:
YouTube - Shipping Panama to Colombia, Loading Container

[clinnet]

Very effective snapshot of what it takes (of an individual's experience) to overland to Panama City if someone was to contemplate about a trip down south.
Great post!



Distance Traveled: 5,800 miles
San Francisco to Panama City
Average Mileage: 15 mpg
Number of Flat Tires: 0
Attempted Bribes: 3
Bribes Paid: 1 for $10
Bandits Encountered: 0
Robberies: 1 pair of hiking shoes – Guatemala border, 1 rosary – Colon Port
Breakdowns: 1 taillight out, 1 suspension airbag adjustment, 1 broken suspension bolt
Average Gas: $3.55/gallon
Percentage Miles on PanAm Proper: 32%
Average Cost Per Day: $39/person (gas, food, lodging, tours, etc)
Total Nights: 130
Nights Camped: 110
Nights in Hotel/Hostel: 20
Average Distance Two Americans Drive in 130 Days: 10,200 miles


Also,

Here's a video of the container loading process made by Adventurous Spirits:
YouTube - Shipping Panama to Colombia, Loading Container (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zsu59Ii6hQ8)

[Ruined Adventures]

looked like both vehicles had some VERY tight clearance at the top :Wow1:...

Any ideas on your total cost thru Central America?

[rockandroll]

looked like both vehicles had some VERY tight clearance at the top :Wow1:...

Any ideas on your total cost thru Central America?

I can give you a rough estimate. Here we go...

Fixed Costs

Health Insurance: 600
Auto Insurance: 1,000 (Sanborns)
Property Insurance: 150
Tundra: 10,200
Camper: 5,200
Mods & Maint: 5,200
Gear: 1,800
GAS: 1,400 (it helps for budgeting & planning to think of this as fixed)

Total Fixed: $25,550

Total Variable Costs: $8,840 (for 2 people, 130 days)

Included in variable costs: propane, lodging, food, booze, border fees, tours, souvenirs, everything.

Cost to Overland to Panama: $34,390

Estimated Resale Value of Truck & Camper: (13,000) - Post Trip Resale Value

Net Cost: $21,390 @ 130 Days

[Ruined Adventures]

I can give you a rough estimate. Here we go...

Fixed Costs

Health Insurance: 600
Auto Insurance: 1,000 (Sanborns)
Property Insurance: 150
Tundra: 10,200
Camper: 5,200
Mods & Maint: 5,200
Gear: 1,800
GAS: 1,400 (it helps for budgeting & planning to think of this as fixed)

Total Fixed: $25,550

Total Variable Costs: $8,840 (for 2 people, 130 days)

Included in variable costs: propane, lodging, food, booze, border fees, tours, souvenirs, everything.

Cost to Overland to Panama: $34,390

Estimated Resale Value of Truck & Camper: (13,000) - Post Trip Resale Value

Net Cost: $21,390 @ 130 Days
That absolutely helps, wow. I like how you broke it down...thank you!

Sounds like shipping around the Darien was enough trouble to convince you guys to sell the truck/camper in South America? :sombrero:

[washington taco]

$21,390 / 130 days = $165.00 a day, pretty cheep all inclusive trip!

[Esmi]

$21,390 / 130 days = $165.00 a day, pretty cheep all inclusive trip!

I was thinking the same darn thing.

(Thank you R&R for the complete cost breakdown)

[rockandroll]

That absolutely helps, wow. I like how you broke it down...thank you!

Sounds like shipping around the Darien was enough trouble to convince you guys to sell the truck/camper in South America? :sombrero:

We're shipping it home. Seems to be a big hassle to sell a set-up like ours down south and we're assured that shipping to the US from BA is not only cheaper but easier.

Speaking of costs, it looks like I have our final costs for shipping around the Darian Gap: $1,263 on the Panama Side and $440 on the Colombia side (this is our share of 1 40' high cube container). Note that shipping prices for this trip have apparently gone up across the board and that Adventurous Spirits and us paid a premium for a good agent.

Also take note that roll-on roll-off service has become prohibitively expensive. Panama-Colombia costs were $2,100 and Panama Ecuador was $3,000. Trip reports from prior years indicate that both of these options were less than $1,000 only a couple years ago.

I'm glad the costs are of help to everybody! While I was doing my own research for this trip this was the most frustrating aspect as almost nobody wanted to share this info. Coming from a financial background I vowed to make this aspect transparent. Stay dialed in for more info and keep the questions coming.

Lastly the most surprising statistic for me was our camped nights to hostel nights (110 camped out of 130). Not once did we camp in a gas station. The camp spots in Central America are out there.

[Christian P.]

Logan and Brianna,

Thank you again for your visit at Panama Passage. I am glad you went with the "premium" fee for the good agent.

We are working hard to develop a solid relationship with Julio in the hope that everyone else coming will benefit from his experience with overlanders week after week.

[rockandroll]

Logan and Brianna,

Thank you again for your visit at Panama Passage. I am glad you went with the "premium" fee for the good agent.

We are working hard to develop a solid relationship with Julio in the hope that everyone else coming will benefit from his experience with overlanders week after week.

Christian, I hope our paths cross soon! Over the two weeks, we had a splendid time with Shaun at Panama Passage. We think you're onto something big and are excited to see it grow over the coming years.

[rockandroll]

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/694/49888623.jpg
After 4 weeks, the trucks are Extracted!!!

Check out our guidelines for shipping here.
(http://panamnotes.com/2011/06/100-miles-of-struggle/)

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/3089/img9378.jpg
2nd broken bolt on our Firestone Suspension Air Bags.

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6663/campg.jpg
Camping out with unURBAN (Espen & Malin) and ToyoTours (George & Andrea) again in Vilcabamba Ecuador

We heard border crossings only get easier in South America. We are happy to report this is true. The process seems more dialed in down here. None-the-less we made a guide to crossing from Colombia to Ecuador (http://panamnotes.com/how-to/colombia-ecuador-border-crossing/).

Colombia and Ecuador have been outstanding. We've been camping out high up in the Andes Mountains for several weeks now enjoying the cooler temps after our month in Cartagena and Panama City.

Lastly, our friends at Life of Saturdays just posted a painfully through cost analysis for driving the PanAm. Everybody's costs are different, but this will help you in a major way. Check it out here: http://www.lifeofsaturdays.com/costs/

[RMP&O]

$21,390 / 130 days = $165.00 a day, pretty cheep all inclusive trip!

You can do it for much less.

I can drive straight to Panama on about $1,200 in fuel. No side trips though, that is straight there. On top of that it will cost me about $1,000 for other expenses, again if I drove straight there over the course of a few weeks. I am also including hotel costs, which you don't have to pay to live in the truck. Yet, parking (camp) for the truck can cost money too.

For longer trips I would budget $20-50 a day plus fuel. So for 120 days it would be about $2500-6000 in expenses above and beyond fuel. I see no probs at all with doing a 120 day trip through Latin America on $10,000, in fact that would be living pretty large with fuel included!

I personally think $1,000 for insurance for 120 days is really high. Not all countries require insurance. Those that do you can buy it at borders for next to nothing. Example, insurance in Panama for 3 months ran me about $60. Even if you have insurance and get in an accident the likelyhood of you using it is slim. Even fairly serious fender benders are usually settled on the spot with cash. Ask me how I know!?

For risk of life and limb, well insurance at that point is a personal decision.

[rockandroll]

For longer trips I would budget $20-50 a day plus fuel. So for 120 days it would be about $2500-6000 in expenses above and beyond fuel. I see no probs at all with doing a 120 day trip through Latin America on $10,000, in fact that would be living pretty large with fuel included!


RMP&O is right here. A lot of the costs I listed are gearing up an expedition rig. Insurance, both vehicle (except Mexico and such) and health are optional. If you've got a Baja ready rig and are ready for a long term adventure, just plan for $80/day (total costs, 2 people) and get going!

Mexico and Central America can be dirt cheap.

[JCMatthews]

Looks like things are going great keep up the posts.

[upcountry]

Great posting. I really appreciate the details and perspective. I truly LOVE Central America and the people. I am born and raised in Hawaii (north shoreof Maui) and have found so many similarities in the culture of C.A. and that of the REAL Hawaii-Ne. I now live in Seattle with my wife and two small children.

After your trip is over and you are faced with a dull return to the states (if you choose to go that route!), I would suggest joining the Peace Corps for a few years.

After meeting my wife while spending the last semesters of our senior year in College in Beleize on a foreign exchange program (coastal reef dynamics course - she was fromt he east coast and I was from the west coast), and then through traveling C.A. by bus for around 6 months from Beleize to Panama, and getting married when we got back home (we eloped and pissed off our familes), we immediately joined the Peace Corps together (have to be married), got stationed in Bocas Del Toro in Panama (Comarca Ngabe-Bugle - near Kusapin), and spent three years calling Panama home and making side trips all over C.A. and S.A. .

In addition to the travel perks of Peace Corps, we got to work with people, and felt like we had enough time to actually begin to understand the culture and make friends. All I can say is the Peace Corps experience is different for everyone, is what you make of it, and it has provided me with such a rich catolog of mental capacity to deal with bad situation in life if feel I can draw on these memories. This experience coupled with travels has allowed me to cope with exactly what you described as your reason for making the trip - inability to deal with day to day life in a cubicle.

Anyway, enough on that, just keep it in mind as an alternative.

My sincere appreciation for your description of your travels!

Chao.

[rockandroll]

Great posting. I really appreciate the details and perspective. I truly LOVE Central America and the people. I am born and raised in Hawaii (north shoreof Maui) and have found so many similarities in the culture of C.A. and that of the REAL Hawaii-Ne. I now live in Seattle with my wife and two small children.

After your trip is over and you are faced with a dull return to the states (if you choose to go that route!), I would suggest joining the Peace Corps for a few years.

After meeting my wife while spending the last semesters of our senior year in College in Beleize on a foreign exchange program (coastal reef dynamics course - she was fromt he east coast and I was from the west coast), and then through traveling C.A. by bus for around 6 months from Beleize to Panama, and getting married when we got back home (we eloped and pissed off our familes), we immediately joined the Peace Corps together (have to be married), got stationed in Bocas Del Toro in Panama (Comarca Ngabe-Bugle - near Kusapin), and spent three years calling Panama home and making side trips all over C.A. and S.A. .

In addition to the travel perks of Peace Corps, we got to work with people, and felt like we had enough time to actually begin to understand the culture and make friends. All I can say is the Peace Corps experience is different for everyone, is what you make of it, and it has provided me with such a rich catolog of mental capacity to deal with bad situation in life if feel I can draw on these memories. This experience coupled with travels has allowed me to cope with exactly what you described as your reason for making the trip - inability to deal with day to day life in a cubicle.

Anyway, enough on that, just keep it in mind as an alternative.

My sincere appreciation for your description of your travels!

Chao.

Thanks for this solid advice. The "after" aspect of the trip has not yet hit us yet, but we do have a lot of thinking and planning to do and this right here is brain food.

[rockandroll]

After a 5 week "vacation" with friends and family visiting us in Peru we're back on ExPo and regular web updates! Enjoy,

Canyon Del Pato (Peru)

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/5466/canyondelpatoroute.jpg

After making our way through the altitude wonder known as Black Mud Pass (our route into Peru), we were more than happy to land on the coast in the little beach town of Huanchaco where we stayed at the much celebrated Huanchaco Gardens "RV park."

We met some new northbound overlanders: Nessie Adventures (http://www.nessiesadventures.com/NESSIE.html). Their bush camp listing and country beta are second to none.

After Huanchaco, we made our way south east toward the many tunnels of Canyon del Pato. The scenery changed slowly from desert to deserted.

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/874/img84891.jpg

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1773/img84901.jpg
Mars?

In the morning our campsite, tucked deep within the valley, the rising sun ignited the spectacular shades and colors of the surrounding desert. Coffee in hand, we entered the deepest part of the canyon (1000m) where the Cordillera Blanca and Negra fight for dominance separated only by 15 meters and the Rio Santa. Due to the precarious nature of the canyon and it’s towering walls, all 35 tunnels were carved out of the imposing mountainside by hand. :Wow1:

http://img807.imageshack.us/img807/8616/img84991.jpg

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/img85131.jpg/

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/4899/img85241.jpg

Each tunnel bares a sign reminding drivers to honk before they enter. We edged around approaching traffic (about seven trucks in one day’s worth of driving) only when the road allowed. At the end of this spectacular drive, we ended up at the base of the Cordillera Blanca in Caraz. Exactly where you want to be.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/5971/img8537b.jpg
Exiting a hand-carved tunnel in the Canyon del Pato Peru

[defrag4]

welcome back from "vacation" :sombrero:

that Nessie vehicle is a damn beast

[rockandroll]

After the Canyon Del Pato we arrived in Huaraz where our non-overlander friends would fly in to join us for the start of our 5 week break from overlanding.

First up, 7 days in the Cordillera Blanca knocking out three peaks: Tocllaraju at 19,790 feet. We would also climb Ishinca at 18,143′, and Urus, 17,782′ in preparation.

If you'd like to read the blow by blow account of our ascents, read all about it out here.
(http://panamnotes.com/2011/08/cordillera-blanca-mountaineering/)

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/92/siphonepics345g.jpg
Climbing the 3rd class rocks on Urus

In summation it was a glorious success having summited all 3 mountains. We had arranged for a cook and guide since it was our first time climbing in the tropics. Quite a luxurious experience, we don't think we'll ever eat a freeze dried meal again.

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1944/p1000092q.jpg
The summit of Ishinca

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/5253/p1000149ko.jpg
Ice climbing up Tocllaraju wearing everything I own and still cold


After our week in the mountains another friend joined us and we spent the better part of two weeks getting pleasantly knackered in Huaraz and camping in the mountains.

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/1698/img0399k.jpg
Pleasantly Knackered

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/7625/img8661vb.jpg
Mountain Glamping

[rockandroll]

Here are some pictures of our journey to Cusco and Machu Picchu during phase two of our break from overlanding. Fear not, Next up we return to the land of overlanding and arrive at Camping Quinta Lala, an old overlander favorite.

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/238/img99891.jpg
The road to Cusco

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/296/img1115yh.jpg
Our apartment overlooking Cusco

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5829/img0513jl.jpg
The unavoidable and cliche Machu Picchu shot

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5586/img0651vm.jpg
The extensive terracing - the soil was hauled up from the Sacred Valley below.

[unURBAN]

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5829/img0513jl.jpg
the unavoidable and cliche machu picchu shot


Yes! Yes! Yes!
GPS coordinates..? ;-)

[rockandroll]

Saying goodbye to my parents, we head to the old overlander favorite, Camping Quinta Lala outside of Cusco.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_1076.jpg
Arriving at Quinta Lala and guess who was there camping?

We spent a week catching up with old friends and making new ones. Each day started with good intentions of errands to be run and laundry to be cleaned. Each following day was our supposed departure. Instead the mornings were filled with coffee talk, the exchange of camping spots, mechanics with reputations to be sworn by, and GPS maps.

Afternoons and evenings were reserved for BBQ bonfires and intercultural exchange. As if we weren’t even in Peru, we learned about the Swiss’ black Santa (who will beat you with a stick!), the proper etiquette at an Argentinean asado, and why genuine German schnapps isn’t to be taken lightly.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_8967-200x300.jpg
Campfire + schnapps

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9101.jpg
The scene at camping Quinta Lala

Unfortunately the campground is rumored to be closing at the end of this year!

Into the Jungle


http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/ManuMap-300x297.gif

Months ago, when crossing into Peru at the furthest east border crossing, we were in the Amazon Basin, but there was no forest to be seen. Manu National Park, because of it’s past isolation and more recently it’s inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List, now boasts the title: worlds most biodiverse area. This small protected chunk of the rainforest is home to a host of yet-to-be discovered species and un-contacted tribes.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9015.jpg
What a jungle looks like from 13k'... clouds

After a bush camp on the 13k' pass, we were winding our way down muddy tracks into the jungle, dropping nearly 8,000 feet in a day. Our surroundings turned increasingly green and lush with each switchback. After our descent, we continued through rock tunnels and under waterfalls gushing over the road (free car wash!).

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9030.jpg
Accessing the jungle

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9069.jpg
Green, green, green

The conditions slowed us considerably so we opted for our first jungle bush camp and set out to explore via foot. Jumping out of the truck we were swarmed with large curious insects. Seemingly bored with humans, they left as quickly as they came, but not before one could take a chunk out of my arm.

We walked around the lush forest crawling with life. Spotting a number of odd plants and animals, we unfortunately couldn’t name a single one. So we made up names such as the vintage metallic couch-patterned hummingbird.

We ventured out a second time to experience the jungle on a moonless night. Our headlamps revealed wildlife desperately escaping the spotlight. We caught a glimpse here and there but the true marvel was the physical feeling all around us, a thriving ecosystem, an independent pulse. Afterward, we settled into the camper and fell asleep to the foreign sounds of the amazon enveloping us.

[rockandroll]

Heading out from the Jungle and Cusco we took our time taking the back road to Arequipa and the world's 2nd largest canyon, Colca Canyon.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9111.jpg
Camping on the Peruvian altiplano at 14,000ft

The road to Arequipa took us over mountain passes in excess of 15,000ft!

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9169.jpg
Bush camp #2 near Colca Canyon

Since Ecuador we've gotten comfortable with bush camping and like to make 1/4 our of camps in the wild. In this part of the world finding solitude is very easy.

We spent a week in Arequipa and found it to be a wonderfully charming city. Yet another town with constant springtime temperatures and mountain views.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9141_picnik.jpg
We took a guide and went mountain biking on day down Misti

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9202.jpg
Just the start of Colca Canyon

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/3098/img9190jh.jpg
Looking out on Colca Canyon

After Arequipa and the Canyon we hit the backroads again heading toward lake Titicaca where we met up with Tom and Jan (Adventurous Spirits) to camp for a while at the pre-Inca ruins of Sillustani. The four of us were very excited for Bolivia and spent the days planning and sharing our excitement.

We spent three months in Peru, as much as our visa would allow. Peru was are all-time favorite so far. The back roads, wilderness, and mountains of this country are second to none.

[zeke2.0]

Before this thread, I had never even considered Peru. Now I have to go there.

[rockandroll]

Before this thread, I had never even considered Peru. Now I have to go there.

Peru was a surprise for us - so much to see and do. We loved it and already want to go back! Thanks for your comment.

[rockandroll]

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Bolivia-Map.jpg
Our 1.5 month route through Bolivia

We entered Bolivia from Peru and our first night on the shores of Lake Titicaca had us buzzing with excitement. Bolivia could easily be considered the wildest place in the Americas. An overlander's heaven, Bolivia is often referred to as the Tibet of the Americas due to it's mountains, height, and isolation.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7836/img92451024x682.jpg
Lakeside bush camp on our first day in the country

After a stop in the mountains near Sorata, we noticed our front drive axle boot was punctured and leaking grease. To replace the boot we would need to take apart the entire front axle. Not a job I'm equipped to do with my single jack and 200 piece tool set. So we headed to the capital city of La Paz to stay at Hotel Oberland and find a reliable mechanic.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/x01nb.jpg
Popped up with company at Oberland

Our extended stay in the metropolitan area of La Paz had us anxious to explore Bolivia's wild frontiers. In that spirit we referred to our paper map and marked Sajama along the Chilean border as our next destination. With it’s plains sitting above 14,000 feet (4350m) the park houses the world’s highest “forest,” and Bolivia’s highest peak, Volcán Sajama (6542m). The forest may be underwhelming as the dwarf queñua trees more resemble bushes, but the landscape consumes the senses. Sajama was Bolivia’s first National Park.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/10-8-Upload-010.jpg
Entering the park

In Sajama, $4.00 gets you unbridled access. Drive, camp, hike wherever you damn well please. This is Bolivia, wild and free.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/10-8-Upload-057.jpg
We do love water crossings

Our first night we camped alongside 95 degree hot springs and among the mountain majesty. For two days we proceeded to empty the contents of our food-poisoned stomachs outside the camper. We wish we could swear off those golden crisp salteñas, but we know we’ll be back.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/10-8-Upload-036.jpg
Recovery in the hot springs

Here the wind runs icy cold, the afternoon sun blazes, and a hard freeze takes over each and every night. Our only company were the herds of alpaca, not sure what to make of a camper meandering along their desolate prairie. Returning to the wilderness we shed our illusions of grandeur and invincibility. We come closer to something more genuine, a more primal self.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/10-8-Upload-079.jpg
camp.

Riding the good vibes from Sajama NP, we continued the bush camp marathon with a stopover at Ojo del Inca. Just north of Potosi, this is one of those spots that should not be missed.

http://panamnotes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/10-8-Upload-116.jpg
Inca del Oro hot springs

Next up is Bolivia part two where things get ever wilder.

[RMP&O]

Good to see a fairly recent update....

As I say on FB, really looking forward to more of your Haters Gonna Hate ten parts series.

Great stuff Brianna & Logan, keep it up! :)