View Full Version : Lifting an 86' 4 Runner
Hey all, well now that I am back in a permenant living situation I have decided to tackle a project that is long over due. My girlfriend and I have a 86' runner with the 22RE, IFS in the front end and some extremely saggy leaf springs in the back. While I haven't done a lot of the work on my 02' Taco I thought this runner would be a great opportunity to build a trail capable, daily driver. The engine has 186,000 on it and still runs like a champ. The suspension is my first project. I would like to replace the rear leafs completely and put new shocks all around. What better place to open up for suggestions but the forum...anyone tackled something similar? What am I in for? Any suggestions on where to find "new" leafs, shocks and maybe some minor engine mods to gain a little power and performance? I would like to start a thread from day one, kind of a begginers guide...or beginners attempt...at building an older, relatively inexpensive, trail capable, daily driver. Eventually we would like to add a soft top and a grill guard of some sort. I would really appreciate any help you guys (or gals) could send our way...now if only I could send beer over the internet...cheers to all and thanks in advance! Nice to have internet access again...
Grim Reaper
05-05-2007, 06:52 PM
http://www.gearinstalls.com/dc.htm <-------cheap way.
I did the Napo/Zuk TJ coil trick. Got 2.5 inches of lift but I used Rubicon unlimited Coils and I had already added a Leaf. Took an hour.
33's can be fit on stock rims with a couple minutes with a hammer on the pinch weld and trimming up the plastic fender liner.
The problem is nobody really makes a 2 inch lift spring for the Toy trucks. Usually get a Add a Leaf. Most companies sell a 4 inch spring and honestly its not a great idea to lift the front suspension. It puts more leverage on the brackets and starts ripping it appart. Stock it is pretty strong once you add a second lower control arm brace.
Picture attached of my truck (86 as well). Stock springs with TJ coil helpers and 33x12.5x15 BFG. I think the front may have about 1 inch of lift by cranking the torsions. Rides AWSOME now. You won't believe how much better the ride is once you get the rear off the over loads. I can follow stock Rubi's all day long now that I have the e-locker. In fact it amazed a LOT of people last trail ride just how well the truck is working. Only a few people who can keep up with me in my club on wash board roads. My big problem now is axle wrap. Going to make a wrap/traction bar for it next I think. You can buy them as well. http://www.budbuilt.com/new/traction_bars.html
Pirate4x4.com Toyota Truck FAQ
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180
The 63 inch chevy spring swap is about the best bang for the buck and will net about 2.5 inches if you run short shackles.
FAIR WARNING: Search before you post anything at Pirate if you haven't already been there. It all has been covered and it is customary to haze Newbies to run off cry babies. :flipoff2: :)
A little more info about the brace in my "Build thread" in my sig.
kcowyo
05-05-2007, 07:14 PM
For a budget but tested IFS lift, how about -
Front -
1.5" Ball Joint Spacers
25MM Sway-Away Torsion Bars
Rear -
Tough Country's EZ Ride 3" rear leaf springs
- or -
Add-a-leaf with 2" longer than stock shackles
Shocks -
Bilstein 5150's
- or -
Rancho 5000's
Not the most hardcore set up and the Rancho 5K's are not my favorite but it will give you a mild lift and should allow for fitting 32 - 33 inch tires. I wouldn't be afraid of adding a 1" Body Lift either but I would stay away from the 2 or 3 inch body lift.
Avoid the common "lift kits" available for torsion bar systems. Not worth the big $$$$ as they do not improve ground clearance. They are for lifting the truck, not enhancing the suspension's performance.
I wouldn't touch a 22RE with only 186K. I've never seen any mod for that engine that really improves performance. Just let it roll. :smiley_drive:
Great stuff, thanks guys! Looks like I have my work cut out for me...thanks again...this thing is just getting started! Cheers!
Grimreaper, helpful thread...thanks. I remember looking at that a while back but lost track of it...appreciate the help!
Anyone have any experience with ALLPRO Offroad equipment/lifts etc.?
Kevinj110
05-05-2007, 08:26 PM
I have dont this many times and the best and easiest cheap way to do it is to get the 1.5 balljoint spacers $120 SHIPPED, DOWNEY 3inch springs $250 shipped, Marlin Crawler 6 inch shakles 70shipped. this should give you a good riding 3 inches with everything done then check with summit to find out if they are still running the special on shocks for the 4runner lastime i checked they were. if you have any questions feel free to pm me and ask them
Thanks again for everyone's input. So after some more research it appears Tuff Country doesn't manufacture leaf packs for the 86' 4 Runner (or do they?). I like Kevin's idea, is there any advantage/disadvantage to keeping the stock rear shackles as opposed to the 6" marlin crawlers (more lift/travel etc.)? Grimreaper, sweet rig, I think I want to get new springs though, we have 2 big dogs and lots of gear, I wonder if the leaf springs are the best option when it comes to load bearing as opposed to travel/articulation etc. OME makes a nice kit as well, simmilarly priced, however not as much lift...could I get 3 inches with the addaleaf and the OME springs? Lastly, is it necassary to install a ball joint spacer...the front is much higher than the rear...ideally I would like to have the rear sitting .5-1" higher. Just throwing a few questions out there...you guys have a lot more experience than I. Thanks again in advance. Cheers
Grim Reaper
05-13-2007, 02:28 PM
Just be careful with the ball joint spacers. They increase the distance between the A frames and that does increase wheel travel BUT you are now twisting the torsion bar a lot further then it was designed for. You increase the risk of snapping them as a result. Might want to carry a spare. ;)
Grimreaper, thanks for the heads up. I think I am going to worry about the rear end first, then deal with the front end after I can see how it sits with the new leafs...thanks again.
DaveInDenver
05-14-2007, 12:04 AM
The problem is nobody really makes a 2 inch lift spring for the Toy trucks. Usually get a Add a Leaf. Most companies sell a 4 inch spring and honestly its not a great idea to lift the front suspension. It puts more leverage on the brackets and starts ripping it appart. Stock it is pretty strong once you add a second lower control arm brace.
For '84-'88 trucks:
Downey 48279-2 are 2" lift springs
Northwest Offroad (NWOR) N73700 are 1.5" springs
NWOR N73200 are 2" springs
NWOR N73200-2S are 2" Stage-2 (higher capacity)
I have NWOR N73400-2S, which are the '89-'95 2" Stage-2 springs.
DaveInDenver
05-14-2007, 12:20 AM
I have dont this many times and the best and easiest cheap way to do it is to get the 1.5 balljoint spacers $120 SHIPPED
I got my ball joint spacers from Roger Brown, he's a reseller for SDORI. Frank Falcone who owns SDORI originally designed them and are the ones you want. I still haven't gotten around to putting them in, someday...
Roger sells them for $109 + $8 shipping.
http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BallJointSpacer.shtml
You can also buy the SDORI spacers from Toyota of Dallas at:
http://www.trdparts4u.com
They do increase the wheel travel over the stock configuration, but people have been using them for about 3 years now and I haven't heard of a torsion rod snapping because of them. I used a set of Sway-A-Way torsion rods, part number 1646 (25mm diameter) on mine and they cost about $175 when I got them. Frank has a BSME & MSME from SDSU, so he's not really just some joe making these things. He has some clue as to the limitations of the problem. That's not to say he's analyzed it and knows for absolute sure, but I personally feel comfortable that I'm not going to make my torsion rods into rubber bands by using them. You are only increasing the rotation of the torsion by a very small amount. The bar in stock form with stock bump stop rotates probably about 20 degrees, changing to low profile bump stops (which is VERY common) increases that by probably 2 degrees. Going to spacers and stock bump stops probably is around the same ~22 degrees. If you use low profile lower stops, you might change the overall wheel travel by a 1/2" and the change to the spring rotation is maybe another degree or 2. You really need to use the stock upper bump stops to protect the CV joint from too much down travel. The spacers do what they say and maximize the travel in the system. So you relax the bars to stock tension anyway, so they are under very little tension when the truck is at a +1.5" increased ride height (effectively making the spindle 1.5" longer, which is probably 18" long already). To achieve the same ride height, you have to put an absolute ton of preload on the springs and that I would think has to be as bad as increasing their rotation a degree or two.
Dave, thanks for the advice...PM'ed you...
Brian894x4
05-14-2007, 09:42 AM
After spending years and far more money than I ever care to admit building and rebuilding and rebuilding my '89 truck, I can tell you what I would do if I had an oppertunity to do it all over again or build that Runner.
First of all, what you build entirely depends on what you plan on using it for. The general purpose of most rigs on this board are traveling long distances, with improved off road capability, but not necessarily extreme off road capability at the expensive of on road driveability.
With that in mind, I would keep the IFS and limit the tire size to 33s. I'm a firm believer in absolute minimal lift. You don't need 4-6" to clear 33s. 1-3" will do it just fine.
When I did my minimal lift to fit 33s, the ball joint spacer mod wasn't available. I think that's an excellent alternative to cranking up the T-bars for about 1" of lift, which is what I did. Keep the T-bars as stock as possible. You can crank a tiny bit if needed, but stock is better for overall ride. The spacer will give you about 1" of lift or so and that should be plenty to clear 33s. Especially if you run stock rims or at least stock backspacing.
You may need to remove the inner fender skirt and front mud flaps. Triming the rear lower fender lip would help a lot if additional clearance is needed as well as pounding down the rear firewall fender seam.
The front upper and lower bumpstops can be cut down or replaced with low profile units that will help with articulation. Removing the sway bar is a popular mod, but I just wouldn't do it. The minimal extra articulation you would get is not worth the reduction in highway handling.
As for torsion bars...stock work just fine. Larger bars will not get you any additional lift nor will they allow you to crank higher without and drawbacks. Where larger bars have advantages is if you have a heavy bumper or winch, they will help keep you from bottoming out when going over rough roads. I would not ever go larger than 25mm. Sway-a-way makes (or at least used too) a good 25mm set of bars. Stay away from 26mm or larger that some companies sell.
The stock steering on IFS rigs are very good, but now's a good time to go through it if it hasn't been rebuilt. Toyota is offering a recall on the center tie rod. Get it done if you haven't already. Replace the tie rod ends if they need it. The idler arm is common failure point on the steering, although I never had a problem. Not even with my long A-arm set up. At least have it checked out, rebuild or replace if necessary and get an idler arm brace, such as from Downey. The best option is a new super beefy unit from Total Chaos and then you could just forget about it, but they're spendy.
One last thing on the front end....pick up a cheap used half shaft and toss it in the back along with a tool kit. They're the same for either side so you only need one. If you wheel a lot and wheel hard, you'll very likely end up breaking an axle eventually. The most common break point is the CV outer shaft that attaches to the hub. Replacing the whole halfshaft as one unit is the easiest fix.
Moving on to the rear suspension. This one is tough, because it entirely depends on how much weight you plan on carrying. My first choice in springs would be ARB's OME springs with about 2" of lift. This would give you some wiggle room if you end up adding weight. If the OME springs still sag with excess weight, you have two additional options to compensate. My first choice in secondary compensation would be longer than stock shackles. These actually improve articulation and don't harm ride quality while giving you from 1/2 to 1.5" of lift all by themselves. If additional weight compensation is needed, you could install add-a-leafs. I've used both in my truck.
Another cost effective option is to keep the stock rear springs and just go with the combination of add-a-leafs and longer rear shackles. I used this set up for years with great success and the cost was only a fraction that of new springs. The top alone will add enough weight to keep the ride from being too harsh with that set up.
Once you get that done, then it's time to start thinking about gearing and lockers. With 33s, you're choice is 4.88s or 5.29s. I personally like 5.29s for a number of reasons. Better off roadability, better acceleration around town, etc. But they result in higher rpms at any given speed than stock. 4.88s are better for returning your rig to stock rpms at any given speed. 4.88 diffs are usually easier to find and you can find them in wrecking yards on stock Toyotas made from 1992-1995 that came with the V-6 engine, auto trans and 31" tires. Buying stock used diffs is probably the cheapest way to upgrade the gears. Plus you'll end up with a stronger rear V-6 type diff. But for a very heavily loaded rig, I would opt for the 5.29s.
Lockers are where the real expense comes into play. In my opinion, the rear should be locked first, instead of the front. An expedition rig, needs the ability to drive in 4WD in various conditions at speed and that means an open front diff and that means either no locker up front or an expensive on/off type locker, like an ARB electric locker. For the rear, any locker or LSD will work. A lunchbox locker like a Lockrite will work just fine and will be very cost effective.
You'll find with 33s, a locked rear diff and at least 4.88 gears and about 1-2" of lift, you'll be able to follow more built rigs further up the trail than you might imagine.
Since the lift is minimal, so will be clearance. The 4Runners have an issue of the gas tank hanging down lower than the pickups. I would beef up the skidplate on the gas tank. On option is removing the skid tank and welding steel angle iron as extra bracing. If you opt to go with a 1" body lift, which is an option, but one I don't really like, you can lift the gas tank at least 1" and gain some clearance that way.
For the center crossmember, Budbuilt makes a crossmember that increases your ground clearance and covers most of the transfer case with heavy duty steel plate. I would highly recommend this part on a rig with minimal lift that plans to see any rock crawling or serious off roading.
In building my rig from stock, to modified stock IFS, to long A-arm suspension, to solid axle swap, the best set up I ever had for the type of use we often discuss here was when I ran 33s on the stock IFS with minimal lift. And I'm basically describing that build with some additional mods that I would do if I could do it over again.
Don't get me wrong. I loved my SAS truck and it was fun as heck to drive off road, but there were many a time, when I longed for my stock suspension. Pretty much anytime I was on any twisty paved road. SAS trucks can be road worthy, but for long trips and a daily driver, nothing beats stock or modified stock. And while Toyota's IFS may not perform as well as an SAS truck, it works much better where the rig will see 90% of it's use...on the roadway, and works just fine for 90% of the off roading most people do.
Sorry for the long post. Hope that helps some.
Brian, first off, I have really enjoyed watching your build ups on your website, thanks a lot for taking the time for such a detailed report, thats great! Can't tell you how much we appreciate the help. Cheers!
DaveInDenver
05-14-2007, 01:54 PM
The front upper and lower bumpstops can be cut down or replaced with low profile units that will help with articulation. Removing the sway bar is a popular mod, but I just wouldn't do it. The minimal extra articulation you would get is not worth the reduction in highway handling.
One point to make here is you really need to stick with stock upper bump stops with ball joint spacers. The two lower ones are fine to switch out to low profile, but the using low profile upper ones will let the down travel of the wheel travel beyond the comfort zone of the CV joint on the half shafts. This is only if you use the ball joint spacers.
As for torsion bars...stock work just fine. Larger bars will not get you any additional lift nor will they allow you to crank higher without and drawbacks. Where larger bars have advantages is if you have a heavy bumper or winch, they will help keep you from bottoming out when going over rough roads. I would not ever go larger than 25mm. Sway-a-way makes (or at least used too) a good 25mm set of bars. Stay away from 26mm or larger that some companies sell.
Stock torsion bars are 22.5mm and they do work fine for a stock rig. The crank is only adjusting the ride height, although you can get a bit of change in ride characteristic because you change the angle that the A-arms now leverage the torsions, so they will seem stiffer. They are the same spring rate. Where larger diameter torsion bars are better is when you add weight, they will hold the ride height with more weight. So with my old stock bars (worn out anyway) the ARB took nearly 10 turns to get the right height (about 15-1/2" from fender lip to rim lip). I pulled them and the S-A-W torsions only took 3 turns from the stock ride height to get the lift. I set the suspension to factory height by measuring the distance from the floor to A-arm like the manual said, then turned the bars to get the height I wanted. I clear 33x9-50 tires with occasional rubbing. I'm going to BJ spacers primarily for ride quality. You get around an 1" or so of lift with the upper A-arm in the stock position, which gives you a much better ride. The reaction angle of the suspension arm to the torsion bar is much better and less harsh.
The best option is a new super beefy unit from Total Chaos and then you could just forget about it, but they're spendy.
I have the Total Chaos part and personally my $0.02 is that it should be a standard upgrade on any IFS truck build. They cost a ton, about $250 I think, but they will be the last idler you ever buy.
One last thing on the front end....pick up a cheap used half shaft and toss it in the back along with a tool kit. They're the same for either side so you only need one. If you wheel a lot and wheel hard, you'll very likely end up breaking an axle eventually. The most common break point is the CV outer shaft that attaches to the hub. Replacing the whole halfshaft as one unit is the easiest fix.
This is absolutely true. One trick is to press a couple of the studs out of the drive plates on the diff (I pressed all 6 out personally) and replace them with bolts. With bolts instead of studs, you can pull and replace a CV axle in about 5 minutes without removing the wheel, ball joints or anything. Pop the hub, pull the C-clip and the axle comes out in no time.
Moving on to the rear suspension. This one is tough, because it entirely depends on how much weight you plan on carrying. My first choice in springs would be ARB's OME springs with about 2" of lift. This would give you some wiggle room if you end up adding weight. If the OME springs still sag with excess weight, you have two additional options to compensate. My first choice in secondary compensation would be longer than stock shackles. These actually improve articulation and don't harm ride quality while giving you from 1/2 to 1.5" of lift all by themselves. If additional weight compensation is needed, you could install add-a-leafs. I've used both in my truck.
Another cost effective option is to keep the stock rear springs and just go with the combination of add-a-leafs and longer rear shackles. I used this set up for years with great success and the cost was only a fraction that of new springs. The top alone will add enough weight to keep the ride from being too harsh with that set up.
OME makes good stuff, but my 2" NWOR lift springs have been fine with me and are much cheaper. They have held up well with the WilderNest and 'wheeling. I would definitely use them again and save the money over OME. I would walk, no run and don't even look back at Add-A-Leafs. I broke 2 sets so far on my truck, a set of shortie Ranchos (VERY, VERY stiff) and a set of long NWOR. I think the weight of the 'Nest and all the other junk that lives in the back of my truck takes a toll on AALs, which are doing an unequally high amount of the work to keep the springs at their ride height. The stock spring want to settle to a certain height where all 3 main springs are at a particular spot. When you add a AAL under the main pack and above the overload, that spring literally pushes the top 3 up 2" and so the whole weight of the rear end is concentrated on one spring now. Both of my sets broke at the center pin, which seems to indicate to me that the springs is being very harshly flexed. YMMV, but I would just assume the cost of either a new or rebuilt spring pack that has the right length, number and spring rate leaves in it.
well i totally slacked on updating this thread but here is where we are at today...
downey, heavy duty spring shackles
downey 3" lift springs
edlebrock performance IAS shocks
black aluminum wheels
i added some pics, the first one is where its at today, the second is before we duralined the body and the last is where it was was my girlfriend bought it.
appearence wise it looks great, the leafs and shackles took care of the saggy rear end and the wheels are a big improvement (IMO).
haven't really had much time to wheel it though since the new modifications...got back from our trip and the starter was dead...so replaced that, put some new terminals in and a fresh oil change and she's, once again, ready to roll. on the road the handling and feel is much improved...
i'll post some pics and review of the suspension when we get out...thanks everyone for your input!
hey all, got a chance to get the runner out today...really impressed with the new suspension...i'll let the pics speak for themselves but i have to say that we have a new love for this rig...handled great, climbed everything in its way and even rallied some mud. anyway, thanks again to everyone, we are stoked...more pics and reports to follow...
kcowyo
09-09-2007, 11:53 PM
Izzat snow? :jumping:
Izzat snow? :jumping:
oh yea, check out the back ground...think it the first of the season around here...so much for fall...i hope:) !
kcowyo
09-10-2007, 12:01 AM
It's 48 degrees here today but the peaks have been socked in all day. I bet we're getting a dusting up there.
I thought I'd seen all of the crazy Toyota paint schemes of the 80's but your Runner has a new one to me. Any idea if that's factory? I recall the blue but the rest is different.
Glad to hear the suspension is working out. Is the 4Runner the gf's DD? Get that Yak-box on the FWC!
It's 48 degrees here today but the peaks have been socked in all day. I bet we're getting a dusting up there.
I thought I'd seen all of the crazy Toyota paint schemes of the 80's but your Runner has a new one to me. Any idea if that's factory? I recall the blue but the rest is different.
Glad to hear the suspension is working out. Is the 4Runner the gf's DD? Get that Yak-box on the FWC!
as far as i know the paint if factory...pretty funky. yea thats claire's DD, it kind of our town/trail rig since we rarely drive in town that much...i do need a yak box for the fwc...too bad its a thule, we'll make it work :) ...pray for snow!
DaveInDenver
09-10-2007, 12:29 AM
It's 48 degrees here today but the peaks have been socked in all day. I bet we're getting a dusting up there.
I thought I'd seen all of the crazy Toyota paint schemes of the 80's but your Runner has a new one to me. Any idea if that's factory? I recall the blue but the rest is different.
Glad to hear the suspension is working out. Is the 4Runner the gf's DD? Get that Yak-box on the FWC!
It was cool this morning here in town, 54F at the house. But the front is moving in, probably the cold front you guys got yesterday then. Pin striping, yeah, I think there was some really funky, cool ones done in the 1980s and early 1990s. Down side is a lot of it seems to have been sort of random and just about none of it is available to replace the old stuff when you gotta do body work. :-(
Scenic WonderRunner
09-10-2007, 12:40 AM
Check these out for the IFS front.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BallJointSpacer.shtml
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/BallJointSpacer_t.jpg
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/BallJointSpacer02.jpg
thanks for the heads up...i can see a a set of those in the near future. appreciate the link! cheers!
4Rescue
09-10-2007, 09:24 PM
Skip the Downey's and the TJ coil garbage. Go with OME CS900R rear leafs adn the OME torsion bars up fornt. MY 89 was sagging like crazy and rode like crap. after the sus. install it feels alot more solid and rides like a dream. best part is after a few months and a few trips, there is literaly NO sag (can 't say the same about downey springs) the springs just feel better every day. Having run OME suspensions in all of the LC's I drove in Australia I can tell you they make the best products for Toyotas hands down. Combined with a set of BJ spacers up front you're looking at about 2-2.25in of lift and a superior ride.
Cheers and No Worries
Dave
Edit: Whoops see you've already bought the Downey's. Hope you have better luck than I did.
kcowyo
09-10-2007, 10:13 PM
If you get the ball joint spacers, have Roger Brown machine them down from 1.5" to 1.0 inch.
ExPo member Seldom Seen (most appropriate member name ever...) did a ton of research including I believe visiting with Toyota engineers and he found out a 1" ball joint spacer is optimum.
DaveInDenver
09-10-2007, 10:20 PM
If you get the ball joint spacers, have Roger Brown machine them down from 1.5" to 1.0 inch.
ExPo member Seldom Seen (most appropriate member name ever...) did a ton of research including I believe visiting with Toyota engineers and he found out a 1" ball joint spacer is optimum.
I talked to Seldom Seen after a Rising Sun meeting about this once. Trying to remember what his concern was, but it's not coming right now. I think it had to do with the ball joint angle, right? It does change the effective spindle length, but 1" or 1.5", neither keeps the A-arms parallel and so I don't know that it matters. I have regular SDORI 1.5" spacers and was planning to just go that way with the longer OME shocks. That's the other issue with milling them down, then ya gotta find a shock with the right travel. At least with the 1.5" ones a lot of people have already gone through the catalogs to narrow it down to a few Rancho, OME and KYB shocks that have the right length and stroke. Another good thing about 1.5" thickness is that you can relax the torsion bars just about completely to stock or even less than stock pre-load and still fit 33x9.50 tires.
kcowyo
09-10-2007, 10:33 PM
I talked to Seldom Seen after a Rising Sun meeting about this once. Trying to remember what his concern was, but it's not coming right now. I think it had to do with the ball joint angle, right?
Honestly, I don't recall either. We talked about it last year but his exact reasoning escapes me.
All I know is, I bought his that he'd had Roger cut down and they're working out great for me so far. According to my Toyota Master Certified Tech pal, everything within my IFS is a-ok after a year of use.
*Oh, and I'm using Rancho 9K's designed for 2" lift with lo-profile bumpstops.
DaveInDenver
09-10-2007, 11:01 PM
Honestly, I don't recall either. We talked about it last year but his exact reasoning escapes me.
All I know is, I bought his that he'd had Roger cut down and they're working out great for me so far. According to my Toyota Master Certified Tech pal, everything within my IFS is a-ok after a year of use.
*Oh, and I'm using Rancho 9K's designed for 2" lift with lo-profile bumpstops.
Must be slightly different geometry between the T100 IFS and the narrower 4Runner/Hilux IFS. You can't use low profile upper bump stops with ball joint spacers, over extends the CV joint. Stock upper bump stocks are the way to go.
kcowyo
09-10-2007, 11:20 PM
Must be slightly different geometry between the T100 IFS ....You can't use low profile upper bump stops with ball joint spacers....
I meant the lower bumpstops. I have no idea if there is any difference between the T's and the Hilux IFS system.....?
You ever see Brian anymore? I never see him here or the other board where we first crossed paths. Heard maybe he was moving up near Rabbit Ears pass?
DaveInDenver
09-10-2007, 11:32 PM
I meant the lower bumpstops. I have no idea if there is any difference between the T's and the Hilux IFS system.....?
You ever see Brian anymore? I never see him here or the other board where we first crossed paths. Heard maybe he was moving up near Rabbit Ears pass?
Now that you mention it, haven't talked to him lately. I've missed the last couple of club meetings and really haven't been able to catch up on any runs, though. The club has a weekly ham radio net and even that I have a hard to time squeezing in. Like the one tonight I'll miss sitting inside this friggin' lab. But I think he often joins that.
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