1995 Montero SR Build [Archive]

LaOutbackTrail

01-27-2011, 04:15 AM

Adding another vehicle to my roster. After much research and deliberation, I chose to pursue a Montero SR. So, I after selling my FJ62 I picked up a 1995 Montero SR off of craigslist. Lots of photos, lots of questions later, I drove down to Houston to pick it up. Exactly as described down to every scratch and issue. The owner was probably more honest than the average seller (wasn't concerned about selling it, just didn't need the truck any more). Drove it back up to Denton without an issue. Great ride. Ample power. Cruise control. Huge power sunroof.

Current-ish photos:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/228093_626202214201_62002887_33240529_7099498_n.jp g

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/260316_631388710421_62002887_33307744_2900363_n.jp g

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/229408_626200906821_62002887_33240484_3349967_n.jp g

Build details:
Suspension- Old Man Emu "Expedition Heavy" Coil springs purchased from TRDParts4U- ask for Jacque.
Interior- Smittybilt seat covers, cargo management system, CB radio (sucks).
Exterior- ARB Roof rack, fire stick antenna (custom mount)

Tires- 33/12.50 R 15 Goodyear Duratracs on stock wheels.

off-roader

01-27-2011, 04:38 AM

:smiley_drive:

So what trips r u gonna do first? Big bend? South padre island?

Not sure if you're looking for mod ideas but be sure to check my mod thread either here or on the wire.

BIGdaddy

01-27-2011, 05:16 AM

Storz

01-27-2011, 10:39 AM

Sweet looking truck! I am a big fan of Montys and Troopers

LaOutbackTrail

01-27-2011, 12:59 PM

:smiley_drive:

So what trips r u gonna do first? Big bend? South padre island?

Not sure if you're looking for mod ideas but be sure to check my mod thread either here or on the wire.

The first trip will be out to the Texas Hill Country. Second is Big Bend. I'm just thinking I may want to have another vehicle with us in BB just in case (I dont trust the truck yet).

I saw you sweet *** platform build! Looks awesome! Won't work for us unfortunately because we always take kiddo along and 9 times out of 10 we have a dog or three.

If you don't mind Ray, keep an eye out for a used montero snorkel for me aye?:sombrero: I'll likely do a front bumper similar to you (non montero specific).

Here are some photos from testing it out the first week of ownership.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs899.ash1/180701_588731905001_62002887_32982816_3974623_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs047.snc6/167755_588731924961_62002887_32982817_3955688_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs071.snc6/168097_588732024761_62002887_32982825_4004601_n.jp g
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs244.snc6/179207_588731959891_62002887_32982819_4032168_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs062.snc6/167257_588732094621_62002887_32982827_6173690_n.jp g

LaOutbackTrail

01-27-2011, 01:01 PM

hey man, can you snap some pics of your carseats in the back? I'd sure appreciate it.

These are def. on my short list of XJ replacements, but I kinda want to see what the seating arrangement looks like.

Sure. I Just realized yesterday that the Montero is PERFECT for a project I've got coming up. A non-profit for getting urban/suburban kids outdoors and cure their outdoor deficiencies!

adrenaline503

01-27-2011, 02:37 PM

If you fold the rear seats up how much length is there front to back? I am 5'7" and want to know if i can sleep in the back.

off-roader

01-27-2011, 04:13 PM

If you fold the rear seats up how much length is there front to back? I am 5'7" and want to know if i can sleep in the back.

My platform spanning the entire rear section (removed 3rd row, folded 2nd row flat, moved & tilted the bucket seats forward) allows for ~6' person to sleep on it.

silvElise

01-27-2011, 04:21 PM

Again congrats on picking this up!
Can not wait to see what is to come :lurk:

zukrider

01-27-2011, 05:02 PM

LaOutbackTrail

01-27-2011, 05:20 PM

congrats! good to see it on here.

so, now that you have it, what are your thoughts on the little things? wipers, heater controls, lights at night? also, what can you recommend that i pay attention to in my searches?

thanx, and good luck on the build.

All of mine function, if thats what you are asking?
The lights are quite bright, in comparison to my toyotas. The only gripe I have really is about the door locks. They act up. I did fix the rear door latch yesterday, drilled out the plastic handle and inserted a screw. to depress the lever that releases the lock. Its a temporary fix until I can figure something else out.

Really, just make sure the timing belt and related items have been serviced within an acceptable time frame. To me, the timing belt on this interference engine is a weak point. But the truck makes up for it in many different ways. So far I am quite satisfied.

adrenaline503

01-27-2011, 05:33 PM

My platform spanning the entire rear section (removed 3rd row, folded 2nd row flat, moved & tilted the bucket seats forward) allows for ~6' person to sleep on it.

Great, thanks for the info.

JackWagon

01-28-2011, 01:28 AM

Congrats on the new rig... may it see many miles.:)

Out of curiosity, what size Goodyear tire were you able to put onto those stock rims? Have you noticed any rubbing? How are they on pavement?

zukrider

01-28-2011, 02:20 AM

All of mine function, if thats what you are asking?
The lights are quite bright, in comparison to my toyotas. The only gripe I have really is about the door locks. They act up. I did fix the rear door latch yesterday, drilled out the plastic handle and inserted a screw. to depress the lever that releases the lock. Its a temporary fix until I can figure something else out.

Really, just make sure the timing belt and related items have been serviced within an acceptable time frame. To me, the timing belt on this interference engine is a weak point. But the truck makes up for it in many different ways. So far I am quite satisfied.

Not so much are they working, but more the ergonomics. i have found when you drive an unfamiliar car, finding the little things can be tough, as well as some are located in weird or inconvenient locations. just the nitpicky stuff.

LaOutbackTrail

01-28-2011, 03:05 AM

Congrats on the new rig... may it see many miles.:)

Out of curiosity, what size Goodyear tire were you able to put onto those stock rims? Have you noticed any rubbing? How are they on pavement?

Why thank you.
I squeezed 33x12.50x15 tires onto the stock 6.5" or 7" rims. Minimum rim size 8.5-11". I'm still working on a good pressure for them though. On a full left turn the driver side tire rubs on the sway bar.

Not so much are they working, but more the ergonomics. i have found when you drive an unfamiliar car, finding the little things can be tough, as well as some are located in weird or inconvenient locations. just the nitpicky stuff.

I find them to be adequate. I CAN'T see the hazard light, rear defrost, cruise control, and fog light buttons. They are hidden by the steering wheel. There are also a few extra buttons on the headlight lever and windshield wiper lever. Just new amenities to be learned.

I only wish I had gotten an OBDII truck so that I am able to use the OBD scanner to diagnose any issues. I may buy the mitsubishi scanner one day.

zukrider

01-28-2011, 04:33 AM

thank you. make sure to check out my new post.

preacherman

01-28-2011, 01:00 PM

I had a 1994 sr before my trooper and liked it quite a bit. A few observations I had:
It says to run 91 oct gas but mine ran fine on 87. I experimented on some long 1000 mile pluse trips and found that if I ran 91 oct my hwy mpg was considbly higher. It went from 16-17 hwy to 19-20 mpg. From here to Moab it made quite a difference.

Another thing, you mentioned the big sunroof. If the power switch ever fails (which is kind of common) there is a special tool in the toolkit in the door that will allow you to hand crank it open or closed.

Also while the third row seats don't come out without tools like the fj80, they don't take much to take out. Each seat has three (I think) bolts to remove the third row seats, which gives you a lot more room in the cargo area.

Overall I loved my SR and only sold it because it had 230,000 miles and I wanted something different. I sold it t wo years ago and still see the high school kid who bought it driving around all the time.

preacherman

01-28-2011, 01:05 PM

Why thank you.

I only wish I had gotten an OBDII truck so that I am able to use the OBD scanner to diagnose any issues. I may buy the mitsubishi scanner one day.

You can use a hand held volt meter or even do the paper clip trick to read codes. It works very well and I used it with great success. I looked for years for a Mitsubishi scanner and never found one for less than $3,000. I just kept a hand held volt meter and a photocopy of the code list in the drawer under the passenger seat everywhere I went. It worked really well.

off-roader

01-28-2011, 01:10 PM

It needs to be an analog unit not a digital volt meter.:smiley_drive:

preacherman

01-28-2011, 01:13 PM

It needs to be an analog unit not a digital volt meter.:smiley_drive:

Correct, my bad. Its been a while. I mostly did the paper clip and counted the flashes.

off-roader

01-28-2011, 04:18 PM

GasPowered

01-30-2011, 12:57 AM

I saw this Montero on Craigslist as well. Excellent price for a well maintained vehicle. I came sooo close to getting this one, but didn't pull the trigger. Great purchase, and I love the way the 33" look !!

Cheers

LaOutbackTrail

01-30-2011, 02:53 AM

Yup, 12v light works too.

Also as for the door locks acting up. IIRC someone had a similar problem and it was one of the switches acting up. Can probably tell for certain by removing them one by one and checking if the problem continues to happen.

As for the 91 octane rating, IIRC it says it's 'recommended' not 'required'.:ylsmoke:

HTH

Put the 'spensive stuff in today and it has less pinging and smoother idle.

You may be on to something about the switches. The drivers side, when using the key to open the door it operates like normal. The passenger door, when using the key to open the door it goes nutso...
A friend's mitsubishi sedan of similar vintage has the exact same issue.

LaOutbackTrail

02-01-2011, 11:09 PM

Hey look I made the news!
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs780.ash1/167006_589587884611_62002887_32994708_204371_n.jpg

Yanked the guy off the curb/fire hydrant........

silvElise

02-01-2011, 11:22 PM

Hey look I made the news!
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs780.ash1/167006_589587884611_62002887_32994708_204371_n.jpg

Yanked the guy off the curb/fire hydrant........

I am sorry I missed the fun! Good for you helping people out ;)

ExpoGeorgia

02-02-2011, 11:06 AM

LaOutbackTrail

02-02-2011, 02:08 PM

jacobfreeman

02-02-2011, 03:28 PM

:smiley_drive: Lookin' good!

zukrider

02-02-2011, 04:30 PM

There's one in my area with the same exact color combination for sale. I'm thinking of taking it for $800, but its got an issue with the transmission. I'm waiting to hear back from the owner on what's wrong with it but hopefully its nothing major

that one is sold. i already talked to him. sorry. but, not too super far away is this

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2153644828.html

i have not contacted, so good luck

Zoltar

02-02-2011, 07:38 PM

My Post
:REOutShootinghunter

:victory:

1911

02-02-2011, 11:17 PM

Looks like a nice truck Scott, congratulations!

off-roader

02-03-2011, 12:26 AM

Define legal.:sombrero:
fwiw, this is EXACTLY the kind of post environmental wackos (aka extremist) look for to use as examples against us.:Wow1:

Hopefully it was on private property.:smiley_drive:

Mr. Leary

02-03-2011, 04:18 AM

Actually, it was on corps of engineer land.

I have spoken to law enforcement officials about it. They have confirmed that the corps land is legal to play on.

Zoltar

02-03-2011, 12:25 PM

Actually, it was on corps of engineer land.

I have spoken to law enforcement officials about it. They have confirmed that the corps land is legal to play on.

This is what I meant by legal. In Oklahoma, all Corps land is legal unless marked otherwise (which more and more is everyday). But I'm finding in Texas its hard to find double track that is un-marked. I wanna play... :smiley_drive:

Mr. Leary

02-03-2011, 04:04 PM

This is what I meant by legal. In Oklahoma, all Corps land is legal unless marked otherwise (which more and more is everyday). But I'm finding in Texas its hard to find double track that is un-marked. I wanna play... :smiley_drive:

Most of the area is inaccessible right now due to swolen creeks and high lake level. If I can find a way onto the land from the southern side, we could really have some fun.

off-roader

02-03-2011, 11:17 PM

Actually, it was on corps of engineer land.

I have spoken to law enforcement officials about it. They have confirmed that the corps land is legal to play on.

Glad you clarified that.:)

Nigel Caffiene

02-03-2011, 11:28 PM

That is awesome you made the news!

Zoltar

02-04-2011, 02:07 AM

Most of the area is inaccessible right now due to swolen creeks and high lake level. If I can find a way onto the land from the southern side, we could really have some fun.

Cool. Keep me in mind if you guys want to go explore.

<off topic>
I got the time off approved for the March 18th AR trip! woohoo!
I'll post on that topic in the CO.com forum.
</off topic>

LaOutbackTrail

02-09-2011, 03:26 PM

I'm having issues with the heater in the truck, looking for some feedback.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52785

He had similar symptoms, but with a 3.0, he replaced thermostat, fluids, hoses, etc. My truck has new hoses, radiator and fluid.
The difference between our symptoms is that my thermostat will get up to just less than halfway. The heater has also worked previously, on warmer days (teens here now).

If I were to replace the thermostat, I am given 3 choices, 170-179, 180-89, 190-199 degrees.

There is also a "fail-safe" thermostat for 3x the price, worth it?

Need heat! Had to run the defrost to clear the screen, but it was barely warm. My girls are freezing when we drive my truck in this cold weather!

Any thoughts/help appreciated!

zukrider

02-09-2011, 04:20 PM

i would go middle or high. as long as you have a good radiator and rad cap, it should not cause harm in the texas summer. most engines are designed to run in the 210-220* range on a normal basis.

good luck, and post up with thoughts after you make a decision.

off-roader

02-09-2011, 04:27 PM

How long are you letting it warm up for before driving it?

LaOutbackTrail

02-09-2011, 04:30 PM

How long are you letting it warm up for before driving it?
I start the truck probably 15-20 minutes before driving, it reaches the "normal" spot on the gauge before I take off. Also, after driving for almost 30 minutes (50 minutes total running time) still no heat.

1911

02-09-2011, 04:37 PM

Scott, most modern thermostats are designed to fail in the open (safe) position. It sounds like yours has. If it's fuel injected, I would get a new thermostat of the recommended stock temperature; fuel injected engines have cold start circuits and etc. and are designed to run best at a specific temperature. If it's a carbureted engine, then I will frequently go with a lower-temperature thermostat for the Texas summers.

LaOutbackTrail

02-09-2011, 04:40 PM

LaOutbackTrail

02-09-2011, 10:16 PM

I bought a new thermostat and went ahead and bit the bullet for a case of Mitsubishi Triple Diamond SPIII transmission fluid. $88 for the case at the stealership. Thats what everybody swears by, and the apprehension of using anything else really bothered me into buying the 3diamond.

Too cold to change the thermostat today, may do it in a SilvElise's warmer garage.

1911

02-09-2011, 10:29 PM

I have an insulated shop with a small propane heater that you're welcome to use if you want, but I'm a little ways from you (50+ miles?).

RU55ELL

02-10-2011, 04:35 PM

I figured the stat would be a higher temp than that. I thought that most stockers were 195*.

LaOutbackTrail

02-11-2011, 08:16 PM

Warmed up enough today tofinish working on Mike's truck and thought I'd dive into mine....

I hate when I dive in.... and find stuff...........

Forward cylinder on drivers side spark plug:

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/TerraXpeditions/Montero/IMG_3234.jpg

All of them on driver's side.
http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/TerraXpeditions/Montero/IMG_3237.jpg

:mad:

silvElise

02-11-2011, 08:18 PM

sadface

1911

02-11-2011, 08:42 PM

Someone got more than their money's worth out of that set of spark plugs! But that one looks oil-fouled for sure. Is the truck using any oil?

LaOutbackTrail

02-11-2011, 08:50 PM

Someone got more than their money's worth out of that set of spark plugs! But that one looks oil-fouled for sure. Is the truck using any oil?

I haven't driven it long enough to determine quantity of oil its burning, but previous owner says it has been burning 1qt between oil changes. Still in range on dip stick.

I havent gotten to passenger side yet because of all the junk in the way (the mistubishi isn't the easiest to work on.)

off-roader

02-11-2011, 10:06 PM

Wow...:Wow1:

Never seen much less experienced that before.

poriggity

02-11-2011, 11:10 PM

Yeah I was going to say, that's the first time I've seen that! Hope it's fixable without spending too much $$...
Scott

LaOutbackTrail

02-12-2011, 12:29 AM

Wow...:Wow1:

Never seen much less experienced that before.

Bones came over this evening to give it a look. His pre-diagnosis is that the oil on the ends of the plugs is being caused by the valve stem seals. The oil on the threads is due to the valve cover gasket or the spark plug tube o-rings.

Timing belt and all the included part changes as well as the valve stem seals need to be replaced, so he is thinking he'll help me pull the motor and fix all the issues in one go. :Wow1::sombrero:

zukrider

02-12-2011, 01:14 AM

i thought it was so. first look at all the oil seemed like tube seals. honda passport/isuzu rodeos have similar issues. so then for all that work, pulling the engine is easier?

i cant wait til i get mine!

Chili

02-12-2011, 01:22 AM

So I guess we won't be seeing it next week?

LaOutbackTrail

02-12-2011, 01:40 AM

So I guess we won't be seeing it next week?

Sure you will! I already have new plugs in it. And there several volunteers to pull me back to DFW.:victory:

silvElise

02-12-2011, 01:50 AM

Sure you will! I already have new plugs in it. And there several volunteers to pull me back to DFW.:victory:

Best gas mileage ever :wings:

Justice R

02-12-2011, 03:39 PM

I agree, It likes you need to pull the valve cover on that side and replace the seals on the bottom of the spark plug tubes.

How did the plugs on the other side look?

Mr. Leary

02-12-2011, 03:43 PM

Best gas mileage ever :wings:

Yeah... he's good at that. I remember a certain trip where he got 190+ mpg. :sombrero:

LaOutbackTrail

02-12-2011, 04:23 PM

How did the plugs on the other side look?

Well, I bought the plugs last night, and didnt changed them on the passenger side, but made sure to close up the ones I had out and not leave it open over night.

LaOutbackTrail

02-12-2011, 11:54 PM

Got all the plugs changed. Passenger side was a PITA!!!!! Never have I had so much trouble just changing plugs! It took nearly an hour 30 minutes to do just the passenger side.

Passenger side plugs were much drier and were colored appropriately, just well worn.

I've never witnessed such a dramatic difference just by changing plugs. The truck also had sort of a shudder when it hit 40mph. I thought it might have been the torque converter, but thankfully that seems to be cured as well. I already bought the golden, red-juice so I'll do a transmission flush tomorrow.........

... right after I get Leary's truck finished!

Bones

02-13-2011, 05:57 PM

so then for all that work, pulling the engine is easier?

I know that seems extreme, but with all the things that need to be serviced on this engine (timing belt, front/rear seals, etc.), it will be easier to just pull it out, buy a full gasket kit, and do it right.
We'll have to see, after this trip next weekend, how much oil the engine's consuming. Then we can determine whether or not to change the stem seals. Premature stem seal wear is common on this engine if it is not maintained well.

LaOutbackTrail

02-13-2011, 09:38 PM

And Tom is THE man anyways. :bowdown:

1911

02-13-2011, 10:49 PM

I've never witnessed such a dramatic difference just by changing plugs.

I don't doubt it, from the photos of the old plugs you posted - center electrodes burned down to nubs and hence the huge gaps the stock coil could barely jump.

LaOutbackTrail

02-14-2011, 03:08 AM

I don't doubt it, from the photos of the old plugs you posted - center electrodes burned down to nubs and hence the huge gaps the stock coil could barely jump.

Actually, the plugs from the factory are platinum, so they look smaller. The gaps were about .50-.65ish, where as the recommended gap is .44.

But yes. Huge improvement. And while just driving around town, I'm not witnessing the fuel gauge plummeting rapidly!:Wow1:

LaOutbackTrail

02-14-2011, 04:57 AM

Was wondering if I could get some feedback from you guys concerning a CB antenna install, which I pretty much need to buy parts and install tomorrow.

I've been reading up tonight on CB mounts and ground planes and such in hopes of understanding what I need for the Montero. So, my two favored mounting locations are on the rear door (http://www.wearecb.com/store/accessories-unlimited-ausm4-90-degree-side-body-antenna-mount-p-473.html) or on a hood mount (http://www.wearecb.com/store/accessories-unlimited-auc10k-ll-hood-mount-coax-cable-p-417.html). To me, the hood mount would provide the best grounding plane with a firestick, but it will be in harms way. If I did the rear door, I'm considering a 102" whip, but still concerned about the GP.

What would you guys think would be appropriate and most tune-ably acceptable?

off-roader

02-14-2011, 06:13 AM

Depending on the range you're looking for, I'd consider the following options...
1) Longest Range: On a roof rack, center of roof.
2) On hood, front bumper, or spare tire mount (cleaner install than on the hood/bumper and won't be distracting while you drive).

I've usually used a roof rack of some kind (even if it's a simple Yakima/Thule rack) so that's where I usually mount it, but I have seen it mounted on the rear tire carrier which is my 2nd favorite. Also it won't distract you on the road. Third favorite is off your front hood or bumper.

LaOutbackTrail

02-14-2011, 06:28 AM

Thanks Ray. Yeah, if I had a roof rack I'd go that route. But, I'm not interested in another crappy magnetic (even my wilson 35 sucks and I've broken two of them). I didnt find this until a few minutes ago, but a "door jamb mount" would work well on the back hatch, probably passenger side. I'm going to give it a look in the morning before ordering anything.
http://www.wearecb.com/store/images/MK274R.jpg

But as far as the best grounding plane, it looks like mounting in on the hood would be best? I've ridden in and driven Mr. Leary's 4runner with the hood mounted antennas and they aren't distracting. Overall though, I would like the antenna at the back of the rig.

As far as range, I'll likely be leading several group runs with the majority of the radios in line behind me. On several trail runs, it has been the guys with the simplest setups with cheap radios, cheap coax and a cheap 102" whip coming over the radio loud and clear.

1911

02-14-2011, 01:26 PM

As far as range, I'll likely be leading several group runs with the majority of the radios in line behind me.

Scott, I replied on your other CB thread, but with this info in mind, the hood mount might work best for you - the ground plane of the hood/body will make an elliptical radiation pattern that be longer/farther to the rear of the truck than the front. IOW, you will have better range behind you with a front-mounted antenna, and more range ahead of you with a rear-mounted antenna.

LaOutbackTrail

02-14-2011, 04:29 PM

off-roader

02-14-2011, 05:57 PM

Yeah, I'm not keen on magnetics either but I've always heard nothing but praise for the K40 magnetic antennas. Never used one though so I cant say for sure. Plus I keep my antenna's constantly mounted (unless I'm parking in a big garage & I don't really like the idea of it rubbing against the paint constantly.

As for a spare tire mount, it's pretty easy to do behind the spare ('forward of') and many have done it with their gen I/II Montero's but if it's better to mount up front, then this won't work for you as well.

As for 102" whips having the best performance, I've heard it's due as much to the length of the antenna (1/4 wave?) as much as placement of the antenna but maybe a CB guru can chime in here...

1911

02-14-2011, 06:54 PM

I'm still back and forth on the mount setup. I can get all the stuff I need from the corner radio shack to do a hatch mount 102" whip (but would require drilling holes), and it wouldn't be optimum by your description.

The big whip is pretty nice for range and tuning, it's just not optimum for wheeling IMO, it gets in the way of everything and whips around when you're going over an obstacle unless you have the top tied down, and then you give up a lot of your range. Th big 1/4-wave whip is also pretty heavy, and most folks mount them with one of those big ball mounts for that reason. And you usually have to drill a hole in the side of the truck for a ball mount. If you're going to put the big whip on the hatch, make sure it is a real heavy-duty mount.

LaOutbackTrail

02-14-2011, 07:07 PM

Calling around this morning and couldn't find anyone in the metroplex, and as far as CBcity in Tyler, with an adjustable hood mount.

I have a few pieces of metal that I could probably fab a simple mount with. My question is what would constitute a good mount? Can I simply bend a piece of flat stock and then bolt that to the tire carrier and run a firestick on the back as a temporary solution until I can get the proper hood mount? Does anything need to be isolated? Or any special care need to be taken?

If that doesnt work, I was thinking of just bolting one of the generic mounts (I suppose they are for truck mirrors) directly to the rear hatch.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/3199Olpd-AL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

And as far as the whip for wheeling, I'm not big on wheeling in tight stuff. Mainly need the CB for doing the trips like the hill country.

Mr. Leary

02-14-2011, 07:10 PM

Just use a plastic grommet to isolate, and make sure you are properly grounded.

Mr. Leary

02-14-2011, 07:10 PM

Nothing quite like the last minute... :sombrero:

LaOutbackTrail

02-14-2011, 09:01 PM

Just use a plastic grommet to isolate, and make sure you are properly grounded.

Properly grounded to what? I picked up the 102 whip. Still need mounting point, radio shack people in Denton have no more clue than I do.

Oh and the *$%&!#& Montero is misfiring again already!!!!!!!!!

Mr. Leary

02-14-2011, 09:14 PM

I am grounded to a connector that eventually hits the negative battery terminal.

off-roader

02-14-2011, 09:58 PM

Properly grounded to what?
Your vehicle ground (same thing that your other electronic devices are ground to). As was already suggested, be sure you use the included plastic spacer which prevents accidentally grounding the wrong part of your antenna.

I picked up the 102 whip. Still need mounting point, radio shack people in Denton have no more clue than I do.102"? Wow, that will be long. Is it a flexible antenna or a solid one?

If it is flexible, be sure to secure the end off road or be prepared to learn why its called a Whip Antenna.

As for the mounting point, I suspect that will be too long for the spare tire so the front is likely the best place for it but then again I'm not sure how you're gonna secure it if it's a flexible one.

As for finding someone who knows about CB, it's the same situation here in the San Francisco Bay Area. The Internet is your friend on this I think.

Oh and the *$%&!#& Montero is misfiring again already!!!!!!!!!I'd check on the 'wire to figure this one out unless someone knows what's wrong on the ExPo.

LaOutbackTrail

02-15-2011, 04:07 PM

I am cheating, running the new ignition wires OVER the motor. Getting the old ones out would have been impossible if I weren't as skinny as I am.:sombrero:

Of course I am taking precautions to shield and protect the wires from sensors and hot parts. But I came to the realization that the intake plenum wont be near as hot as the back of the motor against the firewall.

Anyways, hoping to get it buttoned back up in the next hour.

I also tested the compression. All but one cylinder tested at 184 as per spec, the one cylinder (middle on passenger side) tested ~180 so still within spec. There could have been extenuating issues such as I didn't screw the test plug in firmly enough, it had oil in test plug, or I didn't crank the motor over enough. But I'm not worried about it at all since it was still within spec and all others were awesome.

LaOutbackTrail

02-15-2011, 05:46 PM

What. The. Hell.

Reinstalled plugs. Installed new wires. Have new wires in correct sequence. Still misfiring.

LaOutbackTrail

02-15-2011, 07:08 PM

Confusing.

Had a wild hare to check the plugs again (after finding the plugs loose) and the first coil I pulled out (#2 cylinder) came apart.... put it back together and stuck it in the truck.

Fired up and ran/drove perfectly again. So I must have one or more bad coils? :smilies27

Even ole Bob's music isn't helping to calm me down today... which is very surprising... grrr :mad:

Three little birds. Three little birds.

LaOutbackTrail

02-15-2011, 09:37 PM

Just drove about 30 miles and hit a bumpy dirt road. Truck is running right and the bumps didnt cause any issues.

On a separate note, I've almost finished my Antenna mount fabrication.

102" whip with 4" spring

zukrider

02-16-2011, 12:19 AM

pics!

theicecreampeople

02-16-2011, 12:28 AM

gatta get that baby purrrrrring for this weekend ...im close by if ya need a hand ?

preacherman

02-16-2011, 02:54 AM

Had the same thing happen with my 94, turned out to be a bad coil pack.

LaOutbackTrail

02-16-2011, 03:19 AM

pics!
http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/TerraXpeditions/Montero/IMG_3269.jpg
http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/TerraXpeditions/Montero/IMG_3268.jpg
http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/TerraXpeditions/Montero/IMG_3270.jpg

Obviously I still need to paint the bracket. You can also see the $25 spare I picked up yesterday. Looks more worn but its really more like 30-40%. Worth the $25 mounted.

gatta get that baby purrrrrring for this weekend ...im close by if ya need a hand ?
Thanks for the offer, I think I have it figured out!

Had the same thing happen with my 94, turned out to be a bad coil pack.
Yep! turns out one of the three coils was broken and faulty. As I get the money (or a problem develops, I'll get the other two. Funny thing is that the BWD ignition coil I ordered from Oreillys (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD1/E783.oap?keyword=ignition+coil&pt=02767&ppt=C0334)is the identical factory party with the "diamond" mark on it.

Replaced coil and it purred right up.

silvElise

02-16-2011, 03:30 AM

that is one big whip for a CB..... Nerd

LaOutbackTrail

02-16-2011, 03:37 AM

that is one big whip for a CB..... Nerd

At least I have a truck to whip...

;)

silvElise

02-16-2011, 03:48 AM

low blow :(
Soon enough... soon enough :)

zukrider

02-16-2011, 04:26 AM

looks good, you dont think the side to side leverage will bend the mount at all?

also, what was the damage on that coil pack?

LaOutbackTrail

02-16-2011, 04:46 AM

looks good, you dont think the side to side leverage will bend the mount at all?

also, what was the damage on that coil pack?

$75 after tax, each.

LaOutbackTrail

02-23-2011, 08:52 PM

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg253/SilverbackTRD/WheelingPics/Hill%20Country%20Trip%20-%20Feb%202011/P22003271.jpg
A Mitsubishi amongst Toyotas. The joke was on them when I told them the buying price. :sombrero:

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/183922_1881969530220_1270771061_2315098_7525827_n. jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180652_592598311691_62002887_33038772_1868522_n.jp g

LaOutbackTrail

03-21-2011, 01:39 AM

Question:
I understand the basic principles of deep water fording, but I'm wondering if there is anything specific to the Monteros that you guys might point out that is critical for this truck?

For example, in my 4runner, I relocated the CPU into the glove box, snorkel, diff breathers, and siliconed all the underhood components.

LaOutbackTrail

03-21-2011, 04:54 AM

I guess I could explain my goals...
I'll be presented with the opportunity to traverse trails that have multiple river fords that average 'about this deep'...
http://centraloverland.com/Index/2010,_April_files/Media/web_1/web_1.jpg?disposition=download
http://centraloverland.com/Index/2010,_April_files/Media/IMG_0886/IMG_0886.jpg?disposition=download

To a bit deeper...
http://www.ryanscottphotography.us/COT/The-Thanksgiving-Trophy-DAY-3/Buffalo-River-Woolum-crossing/1144274183_qHJBD-L-1.jpg

http://www.ryanscottphotography.us/COT/The-Thanksgiving-Trophy-DAY-3/Buffalo-River-Woolum-crossing/1144287427_pv2NK-L-1.jpg

off-roader

03-21-2011, 05:07 AM

Made crossings like that with just a lift and tires in my gen 1. Need to know how to use your bow wake though...

Made crossings w my gen II but already had a snorkel.

off-roader

03-21-2011, 08:28 PM

A lot of your success with these kinds of crossings will definitely depend on technique.

Pre crossing prep may include, moving the diff vent lines higher up (currently they vent into your frame cross members). Same goes for the transfercase & transmission. Your axle/bearings should also be properly lubed. If possible using marine grease.

As for the actual water crossing...
First off, you can't go too fast, nor too slow.

If you cannot tell the depth, you should walk the crossing before driving across.

Once you start across, your vehicle will make a bow wake (wave of water). Just behind the bow wake the water will be less deep than anywhere else. This is where you should try and stay. The trick though is going fast enough that the bow wake moves forward fast enough that you aren't fully engulfed in water.

One thing I've seen others do (Grasscat did it at the end of the Mojave Trail) is attach a piece of cloth across the grill to minimize water intake there. I'm no expert so I'm not truly sure how well it works but if you do it in conjunction with staying behind your bow wake it should reduce the water being ingested through the grill.

If you have an electric engine fan, turn it off before crossing to minimize the water splashing in the engine bay.

That's about all I can think of. It's probably best if you watch others who know what they're doing make the crossing before you try to do it on your own so you can see the proper technique.

There are also lots of good articles on how to make a water crossing or fording water with your 4x4.

HTH.:ylsmoke:

LaOutbackTrail

03-21-2011, 08:32 PM

I'm aware of the techniques and usual precautions, i'm simply asking if there is anything particularly vulnerable on the monty.

off-roader

03-21-2011, 09:11 PM

I'm aware of the techniques and usual precautions, i'm simply asking if there is anything particularly vulnerable on the monty.

Ahh, ok. I usually do a full answer like that in case the person asking doesn't know.:ylsmoke:

But other than that, no much else is required other than the basics. It's a good thing that our intakes already have lots of various baffles/compartments which help prevent water ingestion. Many believe it was designed with that in mind but others say the baffles are there to minimize air intake noise. Whatever the reason, I'm just glad it's built this way.:smiley_drive:

LaOutbackTrail

04-16-2011, 04:30 PM

OME Heavy springs are on the boat from Australia!

jsmarine

04-16-2011, 07:21 PM

Hows that roof rack working out for you? Did you figure out how to mount it yet?

LaOutbackTrail

04-17-2011, 06:33 AM

Hows that roof rack working out for you? Did you figure out how to mount it yet?

I haven't mounted it yet. Probably going to have a local fab shop make the bends in some 2.5" flat stock so I can make some gutter mounts. The issue is that I want to very low to the roof. Thule mounts would raise the rack almost 3" off of the roof, and ARB mounts that would fit an 80 would also be too high for my liking.

jsmarine

04-18-2011, 09:22 PM

I haven't mounted it yet. Probably going to have a local fab shop make the bends in some 2.5" flat stock so I can make some gutter mounts. The issue is that I want to very low to the roof. Thule mounts would raise the rack almost 3" off of the roof, and ARB mounts that would fit an 80 would also be too high for my liking.

I know how to get it to sit low, just put the rack on the roof directly, drill some holes and drop in the bolts, done! And maybe some silcone for the holes too! :victory:

red87

04-18-2011, 10:05 PM

OME Heavy springs are on the boat from Australia!

Did you go with the OME sport shocks too or what?

LaOutbackTrail

04-18-2011, 10:56 PM

Did you go with the OME sport shocks too or what?

No, I would like to retain my stock shocks for now. If for some reason the stock shocks to not work with that setup, I will get them.

red87

04-19-2011, 12:46 AM

No, I would like to retain my stock shocks for now. If for some reason the stock shocks to not work with that setup, I will get them.

Perfect. I was debating keeping my stock shocks with the OME springs too. Glad you're going to guinea pig it for me :bike_rider:

Silverwulf

04-19-2011, 01:59 AM

LaOutbackTrail

04-19-2011, 02:35 AM

off-roader

04-19-2011, 03:51 AM

FWIW- : I talked with Ian at camel 4x4 about using the ironman springs with my existing shocks. He discouraged it by pointing out that the their shocks were longer and stiffer to accommodate the increased spring rate and travel length. If you use the stock length spring you won't get the benefit of increased travel.:coffee:

How much longer are the ironman shocks? I'll be installing 2" spacers for the rear coils and when the OE adjustables die, I'll be contemplating longer rear shocks. Will also be checking which KYB's will work that are longer. Their support is excellent for helping with cross reference stuff like this and their shocks are relatively inexpensive, great riding quality units.

It's too bad the rancho RS9000's don't seem to be valved right for the Monty so the end up riding poorly... At least that's what everyone who's tried them have said.

Silverwulf

04-19-2011, 04:54 AM

Not much flex on a dirt road... usually. But, it'll be a shame to lose the adjustable suspension.

Ahhh, I forgot you had those...good point.

How much longer are the ironman shocks? I'll be installing 2" spacers for the rear coils and when the OE adjustables die, I'll be contemplating longer rear shocks. Will also be checking which KYB's will work that are longer. Their support is excellent for helping with cross reference stuff like this and their shocks are relatively inexpensive, great riding quality units.

It's too bad the rancho RS9000's don't seem to be valved right for the Monty so the end up riding poorly... At least that's what everyone who's tried them have said.

I had thought about checking about the length for some different kyb's.
I like my monomax, but the front shocks are a bit too stiff for the stock t-bars. Would be great for stiffer bars, but would want longer.

IIRC the ironman shocks are 40mm longer.

If you install a rear spring spacer, you effectively reduct your up-travel by what ever height the spacer is. Also the piston of the shock will be working more toward the end of the shock, more prone to topping out. You may also experience coil bind before the suspension bottoms out.

I had considered this path. You may recall why I replaced my shocks in the first place, the Rt RR was actually broken and missing the piston rod. I bought the kybs as a quick inexpensive fix with plans to upgrade later. Well that day may come sooner rather than later as I have noticed the spring in the rt rr is sagging. This is most likely due to the PO driving it w/o a shock and has since began to sag.

Instead of screwing around with trying to match parts and the like, I will just pop for the complete set that has been engineered as a unit. Besides $700-800 isn't that bad considering I paid $2400 to lower my BMW E38 with Bilstein sport shocks, H&R stage II springs and power flex thrust rod bushings.

I have also put Ohlins on my Triumph Daytona 955i. That one rear shock with adj compression/ rebound, remote pre load adjuster and adj height was $1k... for 1 shock!

I guess I have become a suspension snob and am rather picky as I have "the good stuff" on my other vehicles. So, that being said the $180 ish I spent on the kyb's was a great value, but if I'm needing springs, I'm going to go with the complete system.

Sorry so long winded...

off-roader

04-19-2011, 06:24 AM

I know what you mean about aftermarket coilover prices since i have an Audi B5 S4.

Realistically you can probably buy aftermarket springs for as little as a few hundred $ (valley spring works) & shocks for a bit over a hundred or so (kyb) although admittedly I've only run them on my gen I.

As for the spring bottoming out too soon due to spacers, it's may be better for me since I'm already running 35's and will ultimately be moving up to 37's so the extra clearance may be good. :Wow1:.

3Deserts

04-19-2011, 05:06 PM

red87

04-19-2011, 06:45 PM

I've been meaning to ask about these KYB adjustable shocks. I've tried to search for the answer, but can't find it.

How exactly are these adjustable? Are the three positions basically three levels of stiffness, somewhat like a lot of newer German cars' suspensions (I'm thinking Porsche PSM as an example)?

And if so, what parameters exactly are being adjusted? Compression only? Rebound only? Comp/rebound combined (a la Bilstein PSS9s)? And by how much?

Finally, how are the positions labeled on the center console? I've never seen a close-up photo of the rocker switch, and maybe seeing it would render this a self-answering question.

Thanks!

I can't answer all your questions but I can answer some.

The shocks have three different levels of stiffness: soft, medium and hard. There is a noticeable difference between each setting. The shocks have what looks like a stepper motor on the top and I'm assuming they turn an adjuster. The switch is labeled only for soft and hard but the instrument cluster has indicator lights that show which position you are in. The switch only has those two labels because the medium position has a picture of shock absorbers on it, not a "m" for medium.

I'm not sure if the adjusters control compression, rebound or both but I'm guessing its both. The truck is a floaty pig in soft (and oh so comfy on the freeway) and the body motions are very controlled in cross-axle situations with it in hard. It both stays off the bumpstops more (more compression damping) and is far more composed when crawling over bigger rocks/ledges (more rebound damping). Hopefully someone with more suspension knowledge will come along and tell me how smart/dumb I am :sombrero:

LaOutbackTrail

04-19-2011, 10:41 PM

You're a dumb smart guy!

JK. You described what I have witnessed and felt in my monty.

LaOutbackTrail

04-19-2011, 10:44 PM

On a entirely different note.... I was returning my neighbors utility trailer yesterday and parked the truck (motor running) on a downhill slope, front facing down. I unhooked the trailer and then proceeded down the hill. I got to the bottom and thought about my parking brake. I knew it functioned, but didn't know how well it would hold the truck on a steep hill. So, I decided to back up the hill to test the brakes on the slope. The good news is that the parking brake works fine! The bad news is that I clouded the yard with greyish/white smoke....... I knew it smoked a little bit, but that was plum ridiculous.

3Deserts

04-20-2011, 12:36 AM

I can't answer all your questions but I can answer some....

Well that's a lot more than I knew before so I thank you for that!

I'll have to re-read this thread and others. The adjustability is interesting to me. I don't have a vehicle yet of course, and I'm assuming that whatever I get I'll probably put a new suspension in. Question is, replace the adjustables with new KYBs (and what springs?) or go the OME route? I don't need huge tires; I can probably live quite happily with 31s or 32s. The less I have to do with the truck as a whole, the better. That's why I'm not settling for anything less than an SR. I want the rear locker and big diff; that solves a major normally-aftermarket problem right off the bat.

LaOutbackTrail

04-20-2011, 12:42 AM

Well that's a lot more than I knew before so I thank you for that!

I'll have to re-read this thread and others. The adjustability is interesting to me. I don't have a vehicle yet of course, and I'm assuming that whatever I get I'll probably put a new suspension in. Question is, replace the adjustables with new KYBs (and what springs?) or go the OME route? I don't need huge tires; I can probably live quite happily with 31s or 32s. The less I have to do with the truck as a whole, the better. That's why I'm not settling for anything less than an SR. I want the rear locker and big diff; that solves a major normally-aftermarket problem right off the bat.

Man... honestly, the 33x12.50s fit nicely. They look right on the truck, especially on the stock wheels. They fit nicely into the wheel wells.
Its also important to note that I have had no rubbing issues.

I am going to put a lift on the truck (springs rear and cranking the torsion) for the cosmetic appearance and load capacity. I will be carrying a ~360lb dual sport or an ~230lb enduro motorcycle on the back, so I opted for the heavy heavies. I'll also install a RTT eventually, likely maggiolina to avoid the wind drag of the more common styles.

3Deserts

04-20-2011, 01:26 PM

Man... honestly, the 33x12.50s fit nicely. They look right on the truck, especially on the stock wheels. They fit nicely into the wheel wells.
Its also important to note that I have had no rubbing issues..

Seriously? 33s on a stock Montero? That's very impressive! My truck's got 33s, and those are NOT small tires. I have trouble imagining those actually fitting, but if that's the case, then that's one more reason why these vehicles are the bargain of the...decade? Locker, adjustable suspension and fits 33s with no mods?

WIN!:wings::sombrero::ylsmoke::Wow1:

And no rubbing issues at all? Even tucked in, lock to lock?

I really need to find one soon. Fingers crossed.

3Deserts

04-20-2011, 01:38 PM

Err...wait...

What about gearing with those big tires? :confused:

LaOutbackTrail

04-20-2011, 11:31 PM

off-roader

04-20-2011, 11:58 PM

Yup. Fit stock.:drool:

FWIW, throw a 2" body lift on and a set of 35's if you want even bigger meats.. That's what I did...:Wow1::smiley_drive:

red87

04-21-2011, 12:34 AM

Err...wait...

What about gearing with those big tires? :confused:

The 94-97s have 4.6 gears that seem to handle the 33s just fine. I'm running 33x10.5s and while there was a power loss going to the 33s from the 31s, it isn't too bad. Still waaaay faster than my buddy's 4runner on 32s :jump:

LaOutbackTrail

04-21-2011, 02:20 AM

Still waaaay faster than my buddy's 4runner on 32s :jump:

Yup. Way more get up than Mr. Leary's 4runner (99 with 3.4)... even when I was pulling about 2200lbs on a utility trailer.

LaOutbackTrail

04-21-2011, 02:24 AM

Yup. Fit stock.:drool:

FWIW, throw a 2" body lift on and a set of 35's if you want even bigger meats.. That's what I did...:Wow1::smiley_drive:

Just out of curiosity would I be able to fit them with a suspension lift..... if I ever wanted to? Or, would I need to do a body lift also?

The ability to fit such large tires was a major plus. Plus, it seems that even though there isnt a big of an aftermarket presence as compared to the other rigs, the truck is still cheaply outfitted and does still have the major bits available.

3Deserts

04-21-2011, 05:48 PM

Wow, I'm practically giddy over all this. Toyota shmooyota.:ylsmoke:

Backing up to the KYB shocks: I should be able to replace them and keep the old, stock springs, assuming they're in good shape right? I'd have to assume the shocks are specified with those springs, so swapping springs would mess up the whole system.

Opinions on which system is actually better for combination on/off road? Adjustable KYBs with spec'd springs, or a complete OME suspension?

I'm always a junky for adjustable suspension, so I'm predisposed to go that route, but if everyone yells STOP!, I'll go with OME.

Monterorider

04-21-2011, 06:18 PM

Just out of curiosity would I be able to fit them with a suspension lift..... if I ever wanted to? Or, would I need to do a body lift also?

There is no such thing as suspension lift for IFS Montero. You can crank up t-bars and ride higher but it can still be compressed just like stock in right conditions.
Unless you talk about dropping suspension arms, extending upper ball joint etc. Body lift is much cheaper and easier.

So it either fits with stock suspension or doesn't fit at all. Of course you can cut sheet metal and clear anything you want.

89mitsuraider

04-21-2011, 06:41 PM

That is a great looking truck. Color and all! Nice job!

LaOutbackTrail

04-21-2011, 09:59 PM

There is no such thing as suspension lift for IFS Montero. You can crank up t-bars and ride higher but it can still be compressed just like stock in right conditions.
Unless you talk about dropping suspension arms, extending upper ball joint etc. Body lift is much cheaper and easier.

So it either fits with stock suspension or doesn't fit at all. Of course you can cut sheet metal and clear anything you want.

Right, doing a body lift raises the entire body away from the frame, I get that. You statement does not make sense. At all. You can put a suspension lift-- longer coils and longer torsion bars with different spring rate)-- onto a Montero or any other IFS truck. Cranking the torsion bars also effectively pushes the hubs downward, away from the fender. There are dynamical differences and methods, but it does actually LIFT the vehicle.

So, my question, is a suspension lift that provides the same amount (two inches) of "lift" as a body lift capable of allowing 35" tires on the Montero?

LaOutbackTrail

04-21-2011, 10:03 PM

That is a great looking truck. Color and all! Nice job!

Thanks. I'm thinking it will be Camel Trophy Sand Glow before too long.... :drool:

off-roader

04-21-2011, 11:07 PM

Backing up to the KYB shocks: I should be able to replace them and keep the old, stock springs, assuming they're in good shape right? I'd have to assume the shocks are specified with those springs, so swapping springs would mess up the whole system.

Opinions on which system is actually better for combination on/off road? Adjustable KYBs with spec'd springs, or a complete OME suspension?
The stock setup rides very very nice off road. Helper Air Bags would be a good alternative if you need extra strength in the rear coils for your 4x4 gear. My 96SR had 200K + when I bought it and I'm still using the stock setup off road with the 35's so I suspect you'll be fine with the stock setup unless they were abused.

I'm always a junky for adjustable suspension, so I'm predisposed to go that route, but if everyone yells STOP!, I'll go with OME.The stock Adjustable KYB's are $$$$$ and as far as I know have only been available via Mitsu unless they sold off their inventory to a 3rd party.

AFAIK you can only buy them through Mitsu or whomever mitsu is selling them through. You can't buy them directly from KYB or traditional distribution unless you have an inside angle and even with that, they may have sold the entire inventory to Mitsu and therefore won't have any stock available to sell to a general consumer or auto parts chain... but you never know... anything could be possible.

red87

04-22-2011, 06:30 AM

Monterorider

04-22-2011, 04:45 PM

Right, doing a body lift raises the entire body away from the frame, I get that. You statement does not make sense. At all. You can put a suspension lift-- longer coils and longer torsion bars with different spring rate)-- onto a Montero or any other IFS truck. Cranking the torsion bars also effectively pushes the hubs downward, away from the fender. There are dynamical differences and methods, but it does actually LIFT the vehicle.

So, my question, is a suspension lift that provides the same amount (two inches) of "lift" as a body lift capable of allowing 35" tires on the Montero?
What I'm trying to say there are (at least) two reason you put a lift on a truck: increase ground clearance and/or put larger tires.
For the later it's necessary to permanently move body of truck away from wheels. Body lift achieves that easily by raising body up against the frame. Replacing springs with stiffer ones, cranking torsion bars etc lifts a truck against the road with a given load but doesn't restrict full cycle of suspension movement (between upper and lower bump stops). Meaning under higher load suspension can be compressed to lower bump stop just like with stock height suspension. Therefore if you tires rub on stock set up they will under some circumstances rub with suspension lift. Only remedy here is to limit up-travel by raising lower bump stops. Which is usually done when live axle setup is lifter for larger tires. Unfortunately doing so on independent suspension particularly on Montero with already mediocre range of motion upfront will severely limit travel or make it non-existent. Which in turn will have detrimental effect on ride quality, crawling, suspension life, etc.

Monterorider

04-22-2011, 04:50 PM

How does one extend the upper ball joint? Is there a vendor that sells a ball joint spacer, like the ones for older toyotas?
If you search you can find it. We kicked that dead hoarse for decade alread on 4x4 wire. I will not point you to one since I'm opposed to that. IMHO you gain little you compromise a lot. Not worth it. It's not going to make Montero RTI ramp king. There are limitations except them and enjoy other strengths Montero setup provides you with. Montero was never build as ultimate rock crawler and will never be at least in stock-like setup. Desert runner is totally different game. Hard to best it. If you truly hitting limits of traction upfront get a locker.

LaOutbackTrail

04-22-2011, 09:03 PM

What I'm trying to say there are (at least) two reason you put a lift on a truck: increase ground clearance and/or put larger tires.
For the later it's necessary to permanently move body of truck away from wheels. Body lift achieves that easily by raising body up against the frame. Replacing springs with stiffer ones, cranking torsion bars etc lifts a truck against the road with a given load but doesn't restrict full cycle of suspension movement (between upper and lower bump stops). Meaning under higher load suspension can be compressed to lower bump stop just like with stock height suspension. Therefore if you tires rub on stock set up they will under some circumstances rub with suspension lift. Only remedy here is to limit up-travel by raising lower bump stops. Which is usually done when live axle setup is lifter for larger tires. Unfortunately doing so on independent suspension particularly on Montero with already mediocre range of motion upfront will severely limit travel or make it non-existent. Which in turn will have detrimental effect on ride quality, crawling, suspension life, etc.

Now I see what your sayin!:sombrero:

As you say in the next post, I am more interested in the trucks higher speed capabilities than any sort of crawling.

LaOutbackTrail

04-23-2011, 02:39 AM

Springs came quick from down under, picking them up tomorrow!:wings:

See... that dirty 4 letter word has its benefits!

LaOutbackTrail

04-24-2011, 12:39 AM

I just got the drivers side spring installed.... right before a deluge of rain!

LaOutbackTrail

04-26-2011, 03:15 PM

I managed to install both springs... by myself. But, I'm now running around on a "custom" exhaust. In order to get the passenger side springs in and out, I had to unbolt the exhaust. Well... I can't get it back in due to some rusted in bolts. They have been soaking in PB Blaster since sunday.

Surprisingly, the truck sounds pretty good with no muffler from behind the cats. Loud and obnoxious on the HWY though. I may have a decent muffler installed, although I like the quiet note of the truck in stock form.... oh the choices one must make!

adrenaline503

04-26-2011, 03:39 PM

Glad to hear its working out, I still think about getting a 90s SR at least a few times a day.

off-roader

04-26-2011, 03:58 PM

I managed to install both springs... by myself.

How was the r&r process? Did you take any pics during the install?

I STILL haven't installed my 2" spacers in back. Just too much stuff to do and not enough time in my life I guess.

LaOutbackTrail

04-26-2011, 06:05 PM

I'm unsure how much the stock shocks will limit the suspension travel... But not that I'll ever really use the suspension to the fullest extent for my purposes.

I did go to the dirt pile to flex the suspension out to help settle the springs in.

I only snapped two pics of the install... only because both times I was racing the daily sever thunderstorms with hail.
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/221954_619961101441_62002887_33164646_7015845_n.jp g
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/222602_619960936771_62002887_33164644_7352188_n.jp g

Monterorider

04-26-2011, 08:21 PM

That looks scarry

LaOutbackTrail

04-27-2011, 02:21 AM

That looks scarry

At first sight.

We just replaced the suspension in Mr. Leary's FJ80... twice... technique worked well on both trucks. Surprisingly stable WITH parking brake set, tcase in 4low, and wheels chocked(FIRMLY).

LaOutbackTrail

05-02-2011, 02:56 PM

Soon up, ARB roof rack with 6 Diamondrax mounts (http://diamondrax.com/heavy-duty-rain-gutter-clamps.html)followed by an ARB bumper. Bumper is paid for, just trying to get it to me! It is actually for a Cherokee sport, but the width is the same as the body, but narrower than the factory fender flares. The little "wings" that go back to the tires have been cut off to fit larger tires, so it should all fit nicely on the monty. The frame rails are of similar width, so it should fit decently. I hope.:snorkel:

LaOutbackTrail

05-02-2011, 02:59 PM

Oh and shortly after that I'm hoping to pickup a snorkel. I see a few knock-off fiberglass kits available from overseas for about $150.

LaOutbackTrail

05-03-2011, 04:24 AM

I kind of mounted the roof rack tonight. :)

Clem

05-03-2011, 04:28 AM

Pictures, man...pictures :sombrero:

trooper8807

05-03-2011, 05:32 AM

Im excited about the bumper. I might pick one up as well

red87

05-03-2011, 05:55 AM

I kind of mounted the roof rack tonight. :)

http://26.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lj5bhyOxxd1qhx9fco1_500.png

LaOutbackTrail

05-03-2011, 02:02 PM

Finishing at midnight was non-conducive to taking a good picture. I'll finish the mounting this evening and take some decent pics.

jsmarine

05-05-2011, 04:09 PM

Pics of the rack? Id like to see how you mounted it.

LaOutbackTrail

05-05-2011, 06:20 PM

Pics of the rack? Id like to see how you mounted it.

I keep forgetting.... I also don't want a driveway shot!:sombrero:

jsmarine

05-05-2011, 07:42 PM

I keep forgetting.... I also don't want a driveway shot!:sombrero:

Oh c'mon, even the coolest of expo vehicles park in driveways every now and then. :sombrero:

LaOutbackTrail

05-08-2011, 09:35 PM

Driveway photos.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/224701_622766529341_62002887_33204633_815932_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/225231_622766549301_62002887_33204634_3398696_n.jp g
My beautiful wife and her friend got in the way of my photo. Shucks. :)

jsmarine

05-08-2011, 11:34 PM

Looks great man! fits the Montero well!

red87

05-08-2011, 11:53 PM

Looking good. The roof rack I mean. :)

LaOutbackTrail

05-08-2011, 11:55 PM

Looks great man! fits the Montero well!

Thanks. ARB bumper will be on either this week or next. Picking it up from Leary tonight.

fatrat

05-09-2011, 02:59 AM

The rack looks great! Looking forward to seeing the bull bar installed.

1911

05-09-2011, 02:39 PM

Looking good Scott!

LaOutbackTrail

05-09-2011, 03:11 PM

Looking good Scott!

Thanks Lee. Tonight I'm going to start trying to install the ARB bumper. It is for Jeep Cherokee Sport. Its a bit narrower than the Monty's fender flares but does cover the edge of the body and marker lights. The frame rails are pretty darn close, so I shouldn't have too big of an issue installing. I may need to custom fab some mounting brackets. All in all, it should provide more clearance than a Monty specific ARB bumper.

off-roader

05-09-2011, 05:02 PM

Thanks Lee. Tonight I'm going to start trying to install the ARB bumper. It is for Jeep Cherokee Sport. Its a bit narrower than the Monty's fender flares but does cover the edge of the body and marker lights. The frame rails are pretty darn close, so I shouldn't have too big of an issue installing. I may need to custom fab some mounting brackets. All in all, it should provide more clearance than a Monty specific ARB bumper.

IIRC, Grasscat installed the same ARB bumper on his 98.:ylsmoke:

LaOutbackTrail

05-09-2011, 06:00 PM

IIRC, Grasscat installed the same ARB bumper on his 98.:ylsmoke:

I think he used a grand cherokee, which would be the same width. Hopefully the frame rails are similar!

Paging Grasscat on the courtesy phone.

Edit: GrassCat found an ARB for a 1995-2004 Toyota Tundra.. coulda sworn I've seen someone pop a Jeep Grand Cherokee bumper on with the only mods to it being the little wings that stick back to the fender...

LaOutbackTrail

05-12-2011, 03:56 AM

Any suggestions for rock sliders? Thinking of ordering some this week...

red87

05-12-2011, 04:14 AM

Any suggestions for rock sliders? Thinking of ordering some this week...

Trail-Gear. They're the most affordable by far.

LaOutbackTrail

05-12-2011, 04:27 AM

Great suggestion.... also looking for a better skid plate setup... thinking about contacting BudBuilt to see if they have ever made a set, but they only do Toyota stuff...

red87

05-12-2011, 05:13 AM

If you find better skids, post it up. I was thinking along the same lines.

LaOutbackTrail

05-29-2011, 02:35 AM

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/249183_626199978681_62002887_33240442_5331965_n.jp g

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/249043_626200542551_62002887_33240470_2261635_n.jp g
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/229408_626200906821_62002887_33240484_3349967_n.jp g

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/247388_626201949731_62002887_33240517_2554321_n.jp g

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/228093_626202214201_62002887_33240529_7099498_n.jp g

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/249593_626202393841_62002887_33240535_3676031_n.jp g

PirateMcGee

05-29-2011, 03:54 AM

that jeep must like getting stuck lol

sweet pics!

LaOutbackTrail

05-29-2011, 04:08 AM

We were purposefully getting the vehicles stuck to test the MAXTRAX and Smittybilt Element traction devices. The only reason he was yanked was due to the transfer case popping out of gear. We thought it would be a good idea to go easy on it and just pull it out...

PirateMcGee

05-29-2011, 05:28 AM

I like my version of the jeep just liking to get stuck better:snorkel:

LaOutbackTrail

05-29-2011, 10:26 PM

Yes and that wasnt the first time I yanked the jeep either.

1911

05-30-2011, 12:40 AM

Looks like Ross's heep. :)

LaOutbackTrail

05-30-2011, 02:17 AM

Tis, it tis.

How you been Lee?

1911

05-30-2011, 02:11 PM

Tis, it tis.

How you been Lee?

Pretty good Scott, no complaints. Business is booming, and between that and helping with the care of my 91-year-old father, I haven't done any expeditions/exploring or any 4WD since the Hill Country trip. Worked a little on the trucks for fun but that's about it. Hoping to drive the 40 to SW Colorado in late July but that is iffy the way things stand at present.

Hope that your businesses are doing well too. I see that you are thinking of unloading the 4R.

RU55ELL

05-30-2011, 04:05 PM

LOL, he's always thinking of buying or selling something. :D

Looks like you've been having a good time with the Monty, Scott.

zukrider

06-01-2011, 03:26 AM

on the rear springs, where did you get em? price? is there multiple spring rate options? if so, why did you choose the ones you did?

thanx for the input

LaOutbackTrail

06-01-2011, 03:34 AM

Ordered them through TRDParts4U, ask for Jacque.
Spring rate- I chose the heavies, for added weight capacity. No more bottoming out. I believe only the stock rate and heavy are available.

I feel the springs have a very similar ride quality compared to stock, but as I mentioned above, no more bottoming out. Progressive springs for the win.

off-roader

06-01-2011, 11:43 PM

When you do your swap on those springs, can you do a huge favor for me and check if they're the same diameter as the OE mitsu springs?

If they are I can use them with the Coil Spring Spacers. If not, then I need to consider other options once my OE springs eventually fatigue and need to be replaced.

Thanks!

red87

06-01-2011, 11:58 PM

LaOutbackTrail

06-02-2011, 01:14 AM

Same diameter... pics somewhere. Coils themselves are thicker.

When you do your swap on those springs, can you do a huge favor for me and check if they're the same diameter as the OE mitsu springs?

If they are I can use them with the Coil Spring Spacers. If not, then I need to consider other options once my OE springs eventually fatigue and need to be replaced.

Thanks!

So the heavys are no more harsh than stock? What's the payload increase? Does it flex as well as stock?
Not sure of the numbers, but it is listed as "Very heavy duty" which is the same as expedition load, I assume. Has more flex.

I'm now considering getting the matching torsion bars, cranking them slightly and adding a 1" spacer to the rear. I'm thinking of finding 34 10.50 16 Super Swamper LTBs to run for an upcoming trip....:)

red87

06-02-2011, 04:14 AM

oh you're going super pizza cutter, nice

LaOutbackTrail

06-02-2011, 12:02 PM

oh you're going super pizza cutter, nice

Jungle baby!

barnstormer

06-03-2011, 04:26 PM

I'm a bit late to this conversation, but here's pics of the Grand Cherokee ARB I mounted on my Monty. The only mods to the bumper were cutting the side "wings" down a few inches.
http://barnstormer.smugmug.com/Cars/Montero/IMG0168/608026055_cx37T-L.jpg

The white tape is where we cut it. The only other thing we needed was a spacer plate about 1/4" thick to mate the frame ends to the bumper tabs. No mods to the truck at all, bolted right on.

http://barnstormer.smugmug.com/Cars/Montero/IMG0166/608025804_sUyVB-L.jpg

LaOutbackTrail

06-03-2011, 05:43 PM

There it is!!! Those are the pics I saw.

The ARB that I picked up was for a Jeep Cherokee Sport... so it is narrower than the grand cherokee. I still need to pick up some steel to make the brackets and then weld everything in.

RU55ELL

06-03-2011, 05:59 PM

Man, that is going to look sweet!

evileric

06-16-2011, 05:13 AM

Seriously? 33s on a stock Montero? That's very impressive! My truck's got 33s, and those are NOT small tires. I have trouble imagining those actually fitting, but if that's the case, then that's one more reason why these vehicles are the bargain of the...decade? Locker, adjustable suspension and fits 33s with no mods?

WIN!:wings::sombrero::ylsmoke::Wow1:

And no rubbing issues at all? Even tucked in, lock to lock?

I really need to find one soon. Fingers crossed.

Figured i'd chime in, I picked up a set of Big Foot AT 33x12.5x15 tires and alum wheels, 15x10. I have no lift at all, and my adjustable shocks are worn out and I bolted that wheel/tire set tight up. But the real kicker is, the tire reads "12.50" wide, but you can tell by the picture its more like 13" or 14". Love mine! Collecting parts for my SAS now!

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee345/e-bedsaul/255886_119117838171658_100002203268656_163041_7501 797_o.jpg

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee345/e-bedsaul/243339_119118148171627_100002203268656_163045_1311 659_o.jpg

zukrider

06-17-2011, 07:42 AM

LaOutbackTrail

06-17-2011, 01:38 PM

@evileric- start up a thread detailing your SAS. start now with your thoughts and theory's. also include the parts list and such. it will be nice to see a SAS start to finish on this forum. also, nice color choice, i have the same!

YES!

@LAoutbacktrail- can you give a couple measurements on the rack? the length/width/height. also the bottom of rain gutter to top of racks top rail. thanx in advance, im in need of these for reference in your pic.
I'll measure this evening... but if I recall correctly, it is 86"x47" ish. I believe the top rail of the basket is 4-5". The mounts that I used provide about 1/2" clearance at the tightest point (rear center).

@barnstormer- can you detail/provide pics of the mounting of your GC bumper? number of points of frame contact? number of bolts?

The stock bumper has 2 or 3 17mm bolts on each side with welded capture nuts on the frame. When I finally install my bumper, I will be utilizing the stock mounting points.

LaOutbackTrail

06-19-2011, 11:40 PM

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/260316_631388710421_62002887_33307744_2900363_n.jp g
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/254164_631389024791_62002887_33307755_6234983_n.jp g
Yeah... I need some sliders and skids...
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/264997_631388026791_62002887_33307711_7151994_n.jp g
Turned my wife loose in the truck.
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/260050_631388196451_62002887_33307718_3505957_n.jp g

theicecreampeople

06-19-2011, 11:44 PM

sweet pics ,scott

jsmarine

07-01-2011, 02:15 AM

Any updates on getting your ARB bumper installed?

LaOutbackTrail

07-01-2011, 03:09 AM

Any updates on getting your ARB bumper installed?

Nope. But the city didn't like it in front of the garage.

LaOutbackTrail

07-18-2011, 02:54 AM

Ray.... I've been searching 4x4 wire for a couple hours now.... trying to find info on the timing belt changes....

They have kits on ebay, but I'm question the quality of their components. Started pricing it out with Oreilly and using Gates and Beck Arnley components, I'm looking at closer to 600. Similar to buying Mitsubishi parts. Also need a full gasket kit.

Due to the amount of work needed I think we're going to just yank the motor. Going to do the timing belt replacement as well as a reseal replacing all 24 of the bloody valve seals. A lot of work, but it works out that my wife and I commute together in her Sentra, so its not an issue to take my time.

off-roader

07-18-2011, 06:10 AM

Ray.... I've been searching 4x4 wire for a couple hours now.... trying to find info on the timing belt changes....
Sorry, just saw your post.

They have kits on ebay, but I'm question the quality of their components. Started pricing it out with Oreilly and using Gates and Beck Arnley components, I'm looking at closer to 600. Similar to buying Mitsubishi parts. Also need a full gasket kit.I'd go OEM for the water pump and timing belt and tensioner. I think the rest of the belts, & pulleys can be any reliable brand.

Due to the amount of work needed I think we're going to just yank the motor. Going to do the timing belt replacement as well as a reseal replacing all 24 of the bloody valve seals. A lot of work, but it works out that my wife and I commute together in her Sentra, so its not an issue to take my time. Plugs and wires too since you'll be removing them anyway. Also inspect and seriously consider replacing the lower intake plenum with a new OEM unit to avoid a butterfly valve failure.

LaOutbackTrail

09-09-2011, 03:03 AM

sandalscout

09-09-2011, 12:44 PM

I could be completely off base here, but in 94-95 Mitsubishi put ODB-II connectors in all/most of their cars, but they were not actually ODB-II compliant. I had a 1994 Mirage and a 1995 Mirage that were both that way. You could read them using the ODBI method as outlined here:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-diagcodes91-93.htm

I suspect that the Montero is nearly the same.

off-roader

09-09-2011, 04:56 PM

Check engine light has come on on 3 occasions now...... Has been while in stop in go type traffic and goes off once cruising at hwy speeds.

A question I have is, how do I check the engine codes? The truck has an OBDII port.... but when I've connected my scanner it says it cannot, but it does light up.... works on my wife's car. Any way to search my VIN number online to tell me if it is OBDII compliant?

Any ideas for why the check engine light is coming on? O2 sensors..... hopefully?

It's most likely not OBDII compliant. OBDII wasn't mandated until 1996. You need to break out the Factory Service Manual and using a analog multimeter read the electrical pulses to determine the stored error code.

LaOutbackTrail

09-15-2011, 03:37 AM

OBDII port??
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/294282_656859526701_62002887_33505882_1070316861_n .jpg

Whenever I was searching for the information the other day, I saw a diagram of which ports to stick the multimeter probes into... can't find it now. I have the FSM but do not see anything about checking the diagnostics codes?

Frustrated now because the CEL is staying on. Bad things happen when I get frustrated.:mad:

scrubber3

09-17-2011, 10:15 PM

Yeah, that's the OBD port. BTW, I bought a timing belt kit off of ebay for my LS that had the seals, gaskets, belt, and water pump for around 100 bucks and it has performed flawlessly for months now.

scrubber3

10-06-2011, 07:01 AM

Did you ever get the "no heat issue" resolved?

LaOutbackTrail

10-06-2011, 06:30 PM

No. But I noticed a trend, the days that were below about 35* and driving around would keep me from having heat. I'm thinking about getting one of those wind screens to help block the radiator this winter.

We had a 49* morning earlier this week which necessitated the need for the heater. It worked fine and I had to turn it off within a mile or two from home.

I'm planning to do some work to the truck during the first weeks of winter (or as soon as I can clear out the garage) and plan on cleaning the AC/heater system. Will also be doing the timing belt service and changing the valve stem seals.

scrubber3

10-06-2011, 07:56 PM

I noticed that same trend with mine. I have flushed out the coolant system completely in mine to include taking the heater hoses off the heater core and flushing it individually and it has only helped minimally. It gets warmer on the driver side than on the passenger side, so to accommodate the passenger I got a 12v plug in heater and installed it on that side. It may have something to do with the blend doors. I just despise taking the dash apart to hunt that little demon down. Midway through the summer I installed and new ac compressor and dryer (both denso). I ended having to get a condenser fan/motor, but that led me to finding the SR air locker that I recently installed. If you need a new compressor, try to do it when you do the timing belt since you will have to take it off anyway. (though I am sure you knew that) Great looking rig by the way! I will post up pics of mine soon since I have modded the mess out of it. Doesn't even look like the same truck.

off-roader

10-06-2011, 07:59 PM

Did u ever figure out how to read your check engine codes & what caused the check engine light?

LaOutbackTrail

10-06-2011, 08:06 PM

Nope and Nope, Ray. My best guess will be O2 sensors.

I'm not overly worried about the truck. I drive it maybe 20 miles a week and have no trips planned in the coming months. Planning to do the work this winter before we have any chance for ice.

94monster

10-13-2011, 06:11 AM

Hi, new around here but had a Montero for a couple of years. I kept getting intermittent check engine lights for EGR system, and for Cam timing sensor. I replaced the sensor but still haven't fixed the EGR yet. I notice that it does run smoother now. Anyway my point is that you really should blink the codes on the dash before you just start replacing stuff. Also I did the timing belt on mine in the truck and oce the radiator and fan are out it's not too bad. I also did headgaskets in the truck and that wasn't so much fun but definitely possible to do. It is easy to do the valve seals with the heads still on if you have compressed air and the seal pliers.

HTH

LaOutbackTrail

10-13-2011, 11:46 AM

Thanks monster. What is the method for blinking the codes?

off-roader

10-13-2011, 05:03 PM

The FSM shows you how to read the codes in a pre-obdii vehicle. You'll need a 12v power probe w/ a light so you can see the 'blinks' or an analog multimeter.

LaOutbackTrail

10-13-2011, 05:45 PM

I may just be stupid, but I've read my FSM and even downloaded it on the net just in case my FSM had the page torn out... I don't see it anywhere. It DOES show the codes though, but doesn't say how to do it.

off-roader

10-13-2011, 07:52 PM

Page 209 of 1134 pages or page 13A-30.

94monster

10-13-2011, 11:27 PM

I had to ground one pin and turn the key on. I think the#1 pin

LaOutbackTrail

10-26-2011, 05:09 PM

I've started collecting parts for the engine refresh to take place in December. We are pulling the engine, cleaning the snot out of everything, changing all seals and gaskets, water pump, timing belt, checking for detrimental wear, etc.

Since this will be a very THOROUGH project, I am wondering what other maintenance things I should consider?

I've read about some upgraded butterfly? Where do I find that part and how necessary is that? Some specific bolt that likes to break? Need to replace head bolts after separating the heads from block?

Ray, what would you do if you were yanking and refreshing the motor?

off-roader

10-27-2011, 12:00 AM

Ray, what would you do if you were yanking and refreshing the motor?

Check with the guys on 4x4wire. That's where a bulk the online experts are.

Oh, and the intake manifold w/ fresh butterfly valves is a dealer only item however it may be available from 3rd party sources that are able to sell Mitsu OE parts.

HTH.

LaOutbackTrail

10-27-2011, 06:37 PM

Heh... got all excited was about to order some Jaos mud flaps........ then had a great laugh.

Sorry for the near facebook type message.... Google them and you will see my point.

Chili

10-27-2011, 10:41 PM

I have a couple of friends that work at LKQ locally, if you have the need to source OEM parts and are okay with used. They are better with cosmetic stuff but also reman engines and sell short and long blocks, etc. I assume they can do intakes and such as well.

I usually call them to give my CC info and then they just grab the parts and meet me to pick up.

Let me know if you think you could use something from them

LaOutbackTrail

10-27-2011, 11:22 PM

Hmmm just knowing if they had a second gen monty would be interesting. I'd like to get a few small parts and some spares.

Chili

10-28-2011, 04:22 AM

You can search their inventory. Check out the LKQ website.

LaOutbackTrail

12-19-2011, 01:16 AM

Changed the oil in the Monty today. For the second time.

And realized that I have only put 3000 miles on the truck since I bought it.

While under the hood I found that the valve cover gaskets are leaking pretty badly. Not enough to drip on the ground, but enough to drip onto the headers. Small power steering leak that is relatively new, and looks like the pinion seal is leaking as well. More stuff to do.

SOFpirate

12-22-2011, 03:27 PM

Well ... I as I always say.

If it ain't leakin' ... it ain't workin'.

At least you know you have fluids in there!

off-roader

12-22-2011, 05:44 PM

While under the hood I found that the valve cover gaskets are leaking pretty badly. Not enough to drip on the ground, but enough to drip onto the headers. Small power steering leak that is relatively new, and looks like the pinion seal is leaking as well. More stuff to do.

IIRC if you're gonna be changing the valve cover gaskets you may as well consider doing your valve guide seals since you'll have access to them (using the Rope or LP Air trick).

LaOutbackTrail

12-22-2011, 06:27 PM

IIRC if you're gonna be changing the valve cover gaskets you may as well consider doing your valve guide seals since you'll have access to them (using the Rope or LP Air trick).

Correct. Plan is to pull the engine crack it all open to be sure nothing else needs to be addressed and do a full engine gasket reseal and full timing belt service.

We are preparing for a trip to Belize/Guatemala after all.

LaOutbackTrail

12-28-2011, 02:08 AM

Drove the monty home to Louisiana this week. First tank landed me a whopping 20.2 mpg (tire size adjusted), quite a lovely fuel economy. Mostly highway with a few stop and go sections do to multiple wrecks on the interstate. I'll be filling up in the morning for the second tank, which was 160 miles of hwy and about 30 miles of city driving. I suspect the mileage is closer to 14mpg judging by the numbers.

However, both tanks I used mid grade fuel. One from a Krogers gas station, the second from a Shell. Tomorrow the gas will come from an increasingly rare "no ethanol" gas station and will continue to use mid grade fuel.

Unfortunately the numbers from that tank will be useless because we will be taking backroads and flooded farm roads.... good possibility that we may get stuck. Should be interesting.

LaOutbackTrail

01-26-2012, 09:03 PM

Does anyone know where the warning buzzer for the headlights, keys, etc is located?

off-roader

01-26-2012, 10:17 PM

Behind the instrument cluster. You can simply unplug the wire going to it to disable it if it's bugging you as it did me.:ylsmoke:

LaOutbackTrail

01-27-2012, 02:34 AM

Behind the instrument cluster. You can simply unplug the wire going to it to disable it if it's bugging you as it did me.:ylsmoke:

I need to trouble shoot it to FIX it and make it WORK! I've forgotten my lights on at work three times in the last few months! (bright, but misty rainy mornings)
And, I accidentally left my keys in the ignition last night after I hurt myself unloading some heavy stones... I've got a one tracked, easily distracted mind...

While I was waiting on the battery to charge, I FINALLY blinked the codes. Got a 403, EGR Solenoid code. Ok, no big deal, will inspect it this weekend and likely replace it.

But I had another question, the ABS light blinked similarly as if it was throwing a code. I didn't know the ABS blinked codes and could not find any reference in my FSM (but it is missing pages). Also the A/T light flashed, but couldn't tell if it was blinking a code or not. Is this common? Both the ABS and A/T seem fine. But the ABS does turn off when I am in 4wd...

scrubber3

01-27-2012, 03:32 AM

Are you sure that your battery and charging system are functioning properly? Sometimes low voltage can throw a few codes here and there. Most of how the PCM determines it needs to throw a code is due to low voltage consistency in that particular area. Glad I don't have to deal with ABS codes.... Oh the joy of having an LS with the SR rear end! :)

LaOutbackTrail

01-27-2012, 03:32 AM

OK, so found some ABS codes online.
"25-27 ............................ 4WD Power Circuit Fault " is what I am getting for the ABS. Any clues?

LaOutbackTrail

01-27-2012, 03:33 AM

I drove the truck a lot this evening and checked the codes again just now. Same codes.

LaOutbackTrail

01-27-2012, 04:01 AM

Looked HERE (http://4wd.blogeasy.com/) but nothing was specifically said about the "4WD Power Circuit Fault "....
Oh and for the most part the 4wd lights work correctly. I have had them flash on occasion, and I would jiggle/push on the 4wd lever and correct the problem (most times), Faulty switch there?

scrubber3

01-27-2012, 04:19 AM

Not sure buddy. My best advice would be to wait for off-roader to chime in. He has experience with the SR. If I was there in person, I could be a lot more help. I don't want to take a blind stab at this one just to give false hope you know. Other than what I said earlier, the only other thing that I can think of is a possible foreign object displacing something. I know I have have some vehicles I was working on just need the ABS rings cleaned and some had a stick between the sensor and ring. The 4WD PCF could be a number of things though. Good luck and if you start to make progress and need advice on what a next step might be, just ask. I know they can be a booger to diagnose.

LaOutbackTrail

05-09-2012, 08:11 PM

Surgery starts on Friday...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/535753_771307906231_62002887_33977955_469509157_n. jpg
Got the lift assembled... and parts gathered....
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/535144_771804915221_62002887_33980114_234817897_n. jpg

I did not have the coin for mitsu parts, but ALL parts were manufactured in Japan. yes, that is an updated intake manifold with good butterfly valve. :)

Just in case you are wondering, we are base-lining the motor. Inspecting as much as possible to determine if there are other issues to correct. We want to be able to rely on the engine to take us (my wife and two daughters-6 years and 2 months) anywhere. Colorado, Big Bend, Mexico... where ever. Sure its overkill, but I rely on peace of mind.

SOFpirate

05-09-2012, 08:56 PM

Check your alternator output. I just found out I have to replace mine ... AGAIN.

Dgurley2000

05-09-2012, 09:11 PM

We want to be able to rely on the engine to take us (my wife and two daughters-6 years and 2 months) anywhere. Colorado, Big Bend, Mexico... where ever. Sure its overkill, but I rely on peace of mind.

Sounds like a good plan to me! How long are you expecting the project to take? That's a nice homemade bench on your front porch :)

scrubber3

05-09-2012, 09:12 PM

Check your alternator output. I just found out I have to replace mine ... AGAIN.

Be sure to check the belt tension on the alternator and make sure it's not too tight as that will cause consistent part failure.

La outback, congrats on getting your stuff! Can't wait till you get it all on. Post up the results! :-)

LaOutbackTrail

05-09-2012, 09:24 PM

Sounds like a good plan to me! How long are you expecting the project to take? That's a nice homemade bench on your front porch
Well, since my buddy who is helping and I work full time... we're going to take 2-3 weekends. I'll be riding my bicycle to work rain or shine for 2-3 weeks :bike_rider: . The bench was my first project at the new house. I like it and will be doing a horizontal slat fence on the west side of the house soon. :)

Check your alternator output. I just found out I have to replace mine ... AGAIN.

I've replaced a couple of alternators out in the field, although they weigh a bit, I'll have a spare in the truck for any extended trips.

Be sure to check the belt tension on the alternator and make sure it's not too tight as that will cause consistent part failure.

La outback, congrats on getting your stuff! Can't wait till you get it all on. Post up the results! :-)

I plan to take some decent photos of the process (or the key points at least), especially of the valve seals and timing belt as its a common topic.

LaOutbackTrail

05-10-2012, 04:43 PM

I talked with Adam from 4x4 Innovations and he's suggested 60" rock sliders. I'll be ordering these in next month.
http://4xinnovations.com/c-1800.html

Will be getting the one with the kick out.

Clem

05-10-2012, 06:31 PM

The 4xinnovations website lists the sliders by vehicle. Do you know which (4runner, Tacoma, extended cab, double cab, etc.) are the 60"? How much is shipping?

Just curious. Thanks,

Clem

off-roader

05-10-2012, 09:31 PM

The 4xinnovations website lists the sliders by vehicle. Do you know which (4runner, Tacoma, extended cab, double cab, etc.) are the 60"? How much is shipping?

Just curious. Thanks,

Clem

trailgear.com also has sliders that fit. They're the mid sized Tacoma sliders.

LaOutbackTrail

05-10-2012, 09:36 PM

Yes, they do, but Trail-Gear.com doesn't offer a slider with the kick-out section at the back of the slider. Plus you're looking at a slider that is 58" instead of a more appropriate 60". I actually measured 64" and Adam at 4xinnovations said he could fabricate whatever length I needed for the added cost of the material. He also suggested to stick with the 60" to allow for tire clearances and such during articulation.

http://4xinnovations.com/graphics/00000001/tacoslider.jpg

scrubber3

05-11-2012, 12:02 AM

67 inches fits perfect. This is what I have on mine and it couldn't be any better. Long enough to protect everything but allowing enough room to install tires larger than 35s. Allows for plenty of room for suspension movement too. Mine are made by trail gear and were only 200 dollars. Be sure to get the gussets if you go this route. I'm not sure 60 inches will be enough to keep the rocks out of in between them and the tires. Don't want to get stuck because of your rock sliders as I've seen it and it was embarrassing for the poor fella.

LaOutbackTrail

05-11-2012, 12:11 AM

Might I also add that I fully intend to keep my mud flaps until they are ripped off. I will remeasure before ordering.

vanisl4runner

05-11-2012, 01:17 AM

LaOutbackTrail

05-11-2012, 01:34 AM

Wow. I've been endlessly inspired buy your truck. I have a 1991 Pajero that needs some suspension work. Bought a set of procomp 9000 to get me by for now and I'm hoping to have the 33 in tires on soon. You had mentioned putting heavy weight springs in the back. Because of the speed at which I browsed this forum, I think I missed some facts. First you mentioned you were going with OME rear coils but then later I saw something about ordering springs from trdparts4u or some thing like that. Were they infact the OME coils that you used to replace the factory springs or a Trd equivalent.

Howdy. Glad to know my rig has been inspirational...

I did indeed buy Old Man Emu (OME) heavy springs. I bought them from a great company who deals with a variety of overlanding parts (ARB products among others). That company is TRDparts4u (http://trdparts4u.com/Scripts/default.asp), give Jacque (aka Coonass on ExPo) a call and he can hook you up with anything ARB supplies. They get frequent shipments so get your order in before the the ship leaves.

I will update my first post with details.

LaOutbackTrail

05-12-2012, 03:10 AM

I've said this once, and I'll say it many times again....

It was a tight fit, but I got it in there!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/p480x480/150774_773207215001_62002887_33986429_79859545_n.j pg

off-roader

05-12-2012, 03:27 AM

Perfect fit. You even have a couple of inches for bigger tires should you elect to go w/out a roof rack... ;)

LaOutbackTrail

05-12-2012, 03:30 AM

Oh, that's without the roof rack and I was still about three inches from the garage frame... Thought about airing down the tires.... but they'd have needed to go down 5 inches to clear rack.

LaOutbackTrail

05-13-2012, 07:32 PM

Was a lot easier than I anticipated....
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/527840_773662951701_62002887_33989225_574023916_n. jpg
Notice the flat tires??

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/556207_773662782041_62002887_33989219_252954362_n. jpg

Clem

05-13-2012, 08:43 PM

:Wow1::luxhello:

Glad the extraction went smother than planned. Looking forward to reading about your experience with all the R&R work.

Clem

LaOutbackTrail

05-14-2012, 01:50 AM

Cleaned the engine bay today...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/540384_774137525651_62002630_33992457_1548122019_n .jpg

And pressure washed the truck... going to prep for paint this week too.

LaOutbackTrail

05-20-2012, 12:12 AM

Well, thank goodness we did some exploratory work on the montero... with the intent of fixing any issues we came across. Wellllll I'm glad that was the intent.:Wow1:

So here is a set of happy cylinders and piston heads.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/579597_776882814071_62002887_34004877_26743194_n.j pg
With obvious signs of oil burning/leaking.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/521307_776884580531_62002887_34004887_478127320_n. jpg
This set of cylinders and piston heads.... not so happy. What you see in the cylinder to the right is the effects of pressurized steam cleaning of the piston head as a small amount of coolant enters the cylinder which is hot from the burning fuel and compression. I still have a lot of cleaning to do but, we need to determine if the aluminium cylinder head needs to be replaced due to warping. I hope not.

And a closer shot...
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/156154_776886965751_62002887_34004902_1311304366_n .jpg

I still have a long way to go, lots of cleaning.

zukrider

05-20-2012, 02:10 AM

LaOutbackTrail

05-20-2012, 03:52 AM

that head gasket is F*&^ed. good you caught it. a new set of head gaskets should be just fine. warpage usually only comes from actual over heating. to the point that the front cover bolt holes are warped.

Yeah. So my mechanic friend (who practically disassembled the engine in my garage for me), his dad think the injector on that side may be a problem.... causing the clean piston head. I'm going to have the injectors cleaned. just in case.

I already have a japanese head gasket kit as we anticipated pulling the heads.

I've learned a lot in this process and can't thank my friend enough for helping me! As surely I would never worked on the truck by myself and the head gasket would have blown completely.