New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

[Heifer Boy]

.
Welcome to the new and improved “Camper Box Build – Ver 2.0”.

All the photos for this build can be found in my PhotoBucket Album at http://s1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/?start=all. Just a few have been added to these posts.

If you have seen my previous attempt at a camper lid for my ute http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55247 you will know all the requirements I had and the positives and negatives of that experience. It's what brought me to design and make this current camper.

Prelude – RIP Camper Lid Ver 1.0

The first thing I did was tear apart the old lid to see what a few years worth of offroad abuse and living outside full time did to it. It wasn't pretty. There was water seepage and rotting had started and all the galvanised exterior wood screws has started rusting. The construction adhesive I used came apart fairly easily on all the joints with only some laminations hanging on and breaking with a very loud pop!! All the joints failed at the glue and not the plywood which is the sign of a glue not designed for building a camper with. The only real positive was the self adhesive foam seal used around the joint between the lid and the tub. It was in excellent condition and didn't let in any water after all those vibrations and weather.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110399.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110400.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110411.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110412.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110405.jpg
So that definitely put that camper experiment to rest as there was no rebuilding it. It did us well for a while but time to move on to bigger and better things.

Stage One - Research

Because I wanted to something that would be waterproof and dust proof I first thought of just enlarging a ute tool box to my dimensions and fitting it out inside with drawers etc. I couldn't understand why all the slide-ons I had seen had steel frames with either steel sheet or alloy sheet attached. Surely a 3mm checker plate alloy box would be strong enough. No!!! Further research showed many people had thought the same and how many alloy tool boxes had cracked after thousands of kilometres of corrugations in the outback. A steel box wasn't going to happen because it would weigh more than my truck and a framed box wouldn't work because I would just lose too much space on the inside (remember I have a tub, not a tray). What to do...

My search took me to exotic materials way out of my price range and back again before finally landing on all the hundreds of wooden boat building websites, teardrop camper websites and expedition trailer websites. These taught me the wonders of epoxy glues, waterproofing and encapsulation ideas. Building methods utilising lamination, stitch and glue and fibreglassing to easily build things strong, light and tough. I had my building method and I could do it myself. If it was good enough for a T-Van it was good enough for me!!!

Stage Two - Testing

So I read and read and read but I still couldn't get away from the idea of “12mm ply with screws holding it together” so I needed to do some tests. I got a sample epoxy kit from BoteCote (great Aussie company in QLD) and some bits of ply to play with and away I went. With the exception of boats, most wooden camper and teardrop builds use a frame but I wanted to build a torsion box slide-on design so I needed to test simple butt joints.

First I glued and screwed three 12mm ply dado'ed butt joints with PVA glue (white glue), PU glue (yellow polyurethane) and epoxy mixed to a glue, waited a couple of days, removed the screws and broke the joints with the following results.

1. The PVA glue was like tearing paper - very easy.
2. The PU glue was tougher but still broke at the glue joint. It fills the gaps well but only with foam which has no strength.
3. The epoxy glue took a bit more force to break than the PU but this time the ply was the weakest link instead of the glue joint. All the gaps were filled well and it pulled the ply apart. Perfect.

These were the expected results but it's nice to see it for yourself. So epoxy it is!!!

Next I made another joint out of 12mm ply and epoxied and screwed the corner. When dry I removed the screws and filleted the inside of the joint with a thickened mix of epoxy and filler. This adds enormously to the strength of the joint and provides a radius for the fibreglass tape to fit around. I also routered the outside edge and then laminated on some fibreglass tape inside and out. The result is a corner joint I cannot break!!! I've clamped it to a bench and hauled on it, hit it was a hammer, hit with a 4lb hammer and jumped on with my 80kgs. Nothing, Nada, Bubkiss!!! It is one hugely strong joint!!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110441.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110442.jpg
Then I thought “they build kayaks and racing dingies out of 4mm ply” so I couldn't see why a camper needed to be out of 12mm. So I repeated the test with 9mm ply and this time only fibreglassed the outside joint. The result was exactly the same. One hugely strong joint I still haven't broken!!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110443.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110444.jpg

The last test was durability. I painted 9mm ply with fibreglass matt and epoxy on one piece and just epoxy only on the other piece. I want to find out how much the epoxy only and the epoxy with fibreglass strengthened the ply and what impact resistance it had. When clamped to a bench it was easy to snap a piece of ply with no epoxy at all but it took my full weight to break the one coated in epoxy only. But I had to stand on the piece with fibreglass in it to break that!!! I then hit the remains with a hammer to test impact resistance, twice flat and twice with the edge of the hammer. The epoxy only piece dented with a loud pop and the epoxy cracked like plastic (which it is). The piece with the fibreglass barely dented when hit with the corner of the hammer and I can't find where I hit it with the flat!!! It added a lot of impact and flexibility strength overall.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110437.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110439.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110440.jpg

The end result of all this is a easy build process that should be light and strong. So the plan is -

1. The camper to be built with a mixture of 12mm and 9mm exterior grade ply.
2. Epoxy glue all corners. Clamp screws to be removed afterwards.
3. Fillet all inside corner joints.
4. Coat interior with penetrating epoxy for waterproofness.
5. Fibreglass all exterior surfaces and joints for waterproofness and strength.
6. Paint exterior.

cont/

[Heifer Boy]

/cont

Stage Three – The Design

I've had the design in my head in various materials for over a year so I had to get it down on paper – literally!!! Some of the corners and voids I couldn't “see” in my head or in drawings so I built a little model out of paper and sticky tape and this made it so much easier to think about what was good and bad about the design. Highly recommended. I never took a photo of it but I do have this Sketch Up drawing instead.

Overall it's a fair bit higher than Ver 1.0 because we now have a roof rack for an awning and with the tent on the camper it will be the same height as this. It gives us a lot of extra space above the storage drawer and fridge and I put in some side doors for access. I tried some other ideas but came back to the K.I.S.S principle. This solves most “what if” ideas – as does a little paper model!!

The basic layout is the same as Ver 1.0. Fridge, jerry can and storage down the RH side and kitchen box and storage on the LH side. The RH “wing” will house the water pump, the hoses and some power points for the fridge etc. The LH “wing” will be left open to allow extra width for a removable kitchen box on the slide. The floor will slide on runners into the ute tub and the roof will have some internal supporting alloy cross members to bolt the tent to. The floor and centre panel (the spine) are 12mm with the rest being 9mm. Doors and door frames are laminated for strength.

Here's a couple of bad SketchUp drawings but you will get the idea -

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/OurCamperBoxwDrawers.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/OurCamperBox-Real.jpg

Stage Four – The Trolley

The idea is that the camper box is removable but instead of having wind up legs I have gone with a trolley idea. It is the same height as my tailgate and I will just slide it on and off the ute as required. The trolley is on casters to move it around for storage and it makes a perfect workbench to build the thing on in the first place.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110360.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110362.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110366.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110370.jpg

Stage Five – Initial Layout

I picked up some sheets of 12mm and 9mm exterior B-B A-Bond ply. I didn't need marine ply as it's not a boat and won't be submerged and it costs twice as much. But A-Bond glue is important so it won't rot and there are less voids in exterior grade too. It's much, much better quality than the stuff from Bunnings I built Ver 1.0 out of. You can feel the weight in it because it's so solid, it doesn't warp much and it has a nice finish too. There was a mix up at the supplier so I ended up with A-A marine grade 12mm sheets for the price of the exterior stuff. Score!!!

The first thing to do was mark out the floor and laminate on an extension. A lot of the big panels in this build are larger than the 1200mm width the sheets come in which is a pain so I have to add on extensions to the floor and roof and watch my wastage. I routered out a 100mm x 6mm lap joint in both pieces and epoxied glued them together. Then I could finalise the actual dimensions that would fit in the tub and start cutting some of the walls. Everything was dependent on the floor being accurate.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110522.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110525.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110526.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110531.jpg

The next critical part was the centre panel which is the spine of the whole camper box. This is also 12mm for strength and I have set this into a dado cut into the floor, roof and the back wall to give extra surface area for glue. This piece has the most work in it as it has dado's running along it's length at 2 different heights to support the middle floors, holes cut in it for fridge ventilation and rebates along the top edge for the alloy cross members under the roof. The front needed to be shaped for the door too. The RH wall is high to clear the fridge and the panel has a hole cut in it for additional access to the water and power in the RH wing. There is a dado cut along it for a middle floor section too. The rest of the walls are easy and are just the height of the ute tub.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110532.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110533.jpg

I've clamped bits and pieces together before to get the layout right but now it was finally time to screw some of it together. I have all the pieces in place for the first build up.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7487.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7488.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7489.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7490.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7491.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7492.jpg

I pre-drilled pilot holes around the edges because I was going to be screwing into thin 9mm ply and didn't want to split anything. I used 6g 18mm self drill needle point wood screws with a Tri coating so they screw in really easily and I can bed down the screws with control. It makes it easy to get things lined up and I didn't split one bit of ply. Yay!!! The screws are just placed at random to hold the timber as these will only be used for clamping the epoxied joint and will be removed once the epoxy is dry.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7494.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7495.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7497.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7498.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7500.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7501.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7502.jpg

It's nice to see it all come up so well so far. I'm a happy boy!!!

Next up - Epoxy Gluing 101. See ya next time.

HB

[Jnich77]

I like it. I grew up on the coast (Florida) most of my life where fiberglass covering plywood reign's supreme. Its amazing how strong and durable it can be if laid up properly!

[LandCruiserPhil]

Looks like a great start! I'm Subscribed for the final.
What kind of joints are you using for the corners?

[pods8]

The first thing to do was mark out the floor and laminate on an extension. A lot of the big panels in this build are larger than the 1200mm width the sheets come in which is a pain so I have to add on extensions to the floor and roof and watch my wastage. I routered out a 100mm x 6mm lap joint in both pieces and epoxied glued them together. Then I could finalise the actual dimensions that would fit in the tub and start cutting some of the walls. Everything was dependent on the floor being accurate.


A scarf joint is the ideal way to join them but harder to do, however I don't think you're going to pushing your panels to the point that the stress concentration would be an issue. I know you said you're glassing the one side, you could consider a strip of glass over the joint on the inside to really make sure you never have an issue.

Good build, this one will be far far stronger and much more water resistant.

On your fillets what filler are you using with the epoxy?

[Heifer Boy]

Thanks for the responses guys. It's nice to see some people take an interest in what I'm doing and the support will help with the build.



What kind of joints are you using for the corners?

Just normal butt joints for most of it with a dado routered into the panels for the centre spine. Based on my tests these will be well strong enough for my purposes.


A scarf joint is the ideal way to join them but harder to do...

On your fillets what filler are you using with the epoxy?

A scarf joint is the proper way for sure but I'm not that good a woodworker. The lap joint was easy and it was only for the last 100mm and has 3 support walls attached and 4 runners underneath. It will be fine.

I'm using BoteCote epoxy (Aussie made) so I'm using there filler compound for everything. The fillet sets rock hard and I don't need it to be (too) beautiful as it will just be inside the camper box. I've read about lightweight microspheres etc but I'm not using them. BoteCote have a great book available with tons of info and I'm following that.

[pods8]

I'm using BoteCote epoxy (Aussie made) so I'm using there filler compound for everything. The fillet sets rock hard and I don't need it to be (too) beautiful as it will just be inside the camper box. I've read about lightweight microspheres etc but I'm not using them. BoteCote have a great book available with tons of info and I'm following that.

I was just passively curious what the kind of filler you were using was, looking up boat coat it sounds like boat coat does fillers blends for the service rather than individual components (like our US west system products). FYI, you wouldn't want to use microspheres for this as they don't make a structural fillet verse wood flour, cotton flock, milled glass, etc.

This is be burly verse the version 1 that's for sure!

[Heifer Boy]

FYI, you wouldn't want to use microspheres for this as they don't make a structural fillet verse wood flour, cotton flock, milled glass, etc.

This is be burly verse the version 1 that's for sure!

BoteCotes filler is a wood flour I think and although they do a 'high strength' version I think the standard mixed to the right consistency will be fine. The 9mm test piece I made had a fillet was way to runny and it's still as strong as. I'm getting better at measuring and mixing.

She'll be strong alright but I think only around 150kgs (330lbs). That's the plan anyway...

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Six – Glue Time

So after getting all screwed together and making sure I had nothing else to do to the panels I just pulled it apart again. But not before I had a quick test fit in the back of the ute. I think it's going to look all right. Not to big, not to small, just right.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7509.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7510.jpg

It was time to glue so I made sure I had everything ready to go. I'm new to this “mixing epoxy and using it before it gels” idea so I made sure I had thought about the routine and had everything ready. It was pretty easy once I got the hang of it and got the consistency of the filler right. I was pre-coating the joint with epoxy and then adding the filler to the rest of the pot and laying this down while the pre-coat was still wet. Besides being a bit messy and wasteful with stirrers and pots etc, once the joint is together cleaning it up is easy and you end up with a really tidy joint.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7512.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7518.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7519.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7521.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7522.jpg

The next day it was time to fillet all the inside joints. The BoteCote book said make a fillet about 2-2.5 times radius of the thickness of the timber. I'm using 9mm ply so I made up a coving stick about 40mm in diameter and it worked well. Getting the mix of the fillet right was a bit harder. Some came up a bit dry which stuck well to the vertical corners but was hard to cove neatly. I really concentrated on the mix later and seemed to get it right but then the last batch I though was perfect has slumped in the corners. So I will have to sand back a bit and re-coat later. It's just a couple of joints and it's only aesthetic but I will probably fix them up anyway otherwise I'll know and it will bug me. Already the camper is getting a lot stiffer and there's no horizontal panels yet. I'm a happy boy!!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7523.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7525.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7527.jpg

Thanks for looking.
HB

[Harald Hansen]

Very nice write-up! Subscribed!

Mathias Wandell's excellent woodworking site (http://woodgears.ca/) has tests of different kinds of joints (http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/index.html) and different kinds of glue (http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html). Well worth a look for those interested in wood construction.

[Jnich77]

Wow.. that thing is going to be a tank when you are done!!!

[The Swiss]

Very interesting. Really like the way you conducted all your material tests, very informative.

[Heifer Boy]

Thanks for the feedback guys. It's a learning experiance but I'm really enjoying it.


Wow.. that thing is going to be a tank when you are done!!!

I hope so...but a light weight tank!! If you have ever been on some of our Outback roads for weeks on end you would have some idea why things have to be so strong over here. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, rattles and shakes loose. This is why I was interested in building without mechanical fastners. There should be a little bit of flex in it too which will help. Too rigid and it might crack. Ask me again in a few years time...

[Jnich77]

I hope so...but a light weight tank!! If you have ever been on some of our Outback roads for weeks on end you would have some idea why things have to be so strong over here. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, rattles and shakes loose. This is why I was interested in building without mechanical fasteners. There should be a little bit of flex in it too which will help. Too rigid and it might crack. Ask me again in a few years time...

I know for boats around here (mullet and shrimping) they usually brace the inside of corners with a 1 x 2 or 2 x 2 and glue them.. then when the glue has set they fiberglass the crap out of the. They beat the crap out if them for years with no real problems.. so I am sure the way you are building will be perfect for the "out back".

From my limited experience, I see your only real problem being "flex". Of you can eliminate that you should have no problems.

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Seven – Front Wall and Door Frame

This is the first of 3 door frames to be made up but is a little different to the side doors. It’s the largest door and also the front wall of the camper box. Because my storage drawer slides will run on the floor of the camper, the front wall doesn’t have a bottom surround so it was pretty tricky cutting and trimming the thin 3-sided frame. The frame is 2 pieces of ply with the outside being 12mm and the inside 9mm and the inside piece is 15mm smaller all around to create the door jamb.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7547.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7548.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7549.jpg

After a lot of test fitting these 2 pieces were laminated together, glued to the front of the side walls and held it in place with temporary screws. I had to be careful when I was moving them around until they were laminated as they flexed all over the place. The frame is only 40mm thick!! There is a tiny connection tab at the top of the centre panel but overall the frame has very little support until the middle floors and top section go in. It’s pretty solid though and will strengthen up once I fillet it. The corners have a rabbet joint with the side walls formed by the 2 pieces ply so there is plenty of glue surface for bonding.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7551.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7555.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7558.jpg

I’m also thinking of adding additional support down the RH side to support the door. The wall is 21mm thick already but the door will be about 1100mm x 800mm and hinged from the side so an extra strip of ply epoxied inside for strength might be a good idea. I’ll take a look at this tomorrow too.

Remember, more photos in PhotoBucket (link in first post) and see you next time. Thanks for looking.

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Eight – Floors

Not a whole lot done this time. I just cut and dry fitted the floors for the upper storage areas. It’s good to get this done as it really shows the size of each of the storage spaces.

The LH side is pretty big and we will be able to get a lot of stuff in there. I’ll probably divide it up a bit to hold plastic boxes etc without them sliding around the place too much. The RH side obviously has a step in it to clear the fridge height so the space it a bit broken up. On the upper section at the back I’m going to put the second battery with fuse box and outlets in front of it. There will also be a small hatch cut into the top panel to allow access to the water jerry can to disconnect the hose when it needs to be swapped. In the photos you can see I made the lower RH section out of two pieces which are joined with another lap joint. This is because if I didn’t I would have to buy a complete sheet of 9mm ply just to make this!! With the strength of other lap joints I have made I don’t think this is going to be a problem!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7562.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7561.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7564.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7563.jpg

The idea is to bootline these areas but and although I would like to do that before the top goes on I think it will have to wait until we have done a couple of trips and really know how it’s going to be organised. We know what we generally take but I don’t want to have to try and rip up carpet and redesign the insides after it’s all built.

I also started making the drawer slides. These will hold all the storage boxes, the kitchen box, fridge etc. They still need a lot of work but I was able to get true dimensions off the LH one so my partner can start designing the removable kitchen box we have planned. These are made out of 12mm ply and have small extensions lap jointed to the ends to use up the offcuts and give the length I needed.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7565.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7566.jpg

It’s a pain that the length of everything in this build is just over the 1220mm width of a full sheet so it all needs to be cut out of a full panel. It took an initial bit of patternmaking to minimise the waste so I didn’t just keep buying more plywood each time I needed a new panel cut. Well worth doing though and I check my drawings each time to make sure I cut the right panel from the right sheet.

It’s really starting to look like a camper now and not just a pile of plywood panels. Yay!!! I hope everyone is enjoying the write ups and please feel free to comment. Feedback is always welcome.

[riveroceanandmountain]

I love how meticulous you are being...... it will be soooooo much better in the end! Well done....... I'll be watching

[Heifer Boy]

I love how meticulous you are being...... it will be soooooo much better in the end! Well done....... I'll be watching

"The devil is in the detail" - Ludwig Mies van der Rohe

I also advocate the K.I.S.S principle...

[Cletus]

Cool to see someone using these techniques in their build. Always thought stitch and glue or even strip planking would work for a camper build, looking forward to seeing how it holds up.

[SLO_F-250]

Nice work! Its cool to see this taking form. Keep it up. Cant wait to see how it works out for you! :smiley_drive:

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Nine – Side Door Frames

The next step was to make up the side door frames. These were the same as the front door frame – 12mm ply outside, 9mm ply inside with a 15mm step around the opening to create a door jamb. Also on the inside piece are some rebates for the ends of the aluminium angle cross members that will help support the top.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7580.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7583.jpg

These were then dry screwed in place to check everything but won't be glued up until the interior is finished a bit more. If I put the floors and walls up I can't get into the box so I have to finish it in certain order or I'll make it very hard for myself.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7571.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7568.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7567.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7574.jpg

I also glued up the lap joints I made last time for one of the floor pieces and the storage drawer slides. All nice and solid now.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7578.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7577.jpg

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Ten – Doors

The three doors are also made of two pieces of ply laminated together to make a stiff, strong door with a 25mm overlap for the seal. The inside is 12mm ply with a 4mm skin on the outside. This leaves a 8mm gap for the compression bulb seal I'll fit to the doors. I removed some material from the inside panel of the main rear door to save a bit of weight as it's going to be side hung and is 1.3m long so I didn't want it sagging too much. You can also see the holes cut for the compression locks I'll fit – two for each side door and four for the main door.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7598.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7601.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7602.jpg

I pre-coated the panels with epoxy and then spread on some runny thickened epoxy for glue. I thought of various ways of clamping the doors but decided to just weight them down on a nice flat surface so used everything I could find in the garage. Over about 40mins I just kept removing the bits of epoxy squeezing slowly out of the joint and now it's all dry I'm really happy with how stiff and strong the doors appear to be. They should seal up well.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7604.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7605.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7603.jpg

So nearly all the ply has been cut out and dry fitted now but there is still a fair list of things to do -

1. Epoxy interior.
2. Fit water system.
3. Fit electrical system.
4. Glue up floors and walls.
5. Cut and fit aluminium cross members.
6. Make and fit top.
7. Make storage drawer box and fridge slide box.
8. Make kitchen box.
9. Make drop down table for door.
10. Fibreglass exterior
11. Paint it.
12. Fit doors and bottom slides.
13. Fit the roof top tent.
14. Go camping!!

The water system is basically done. I'm still planning electrics but have a fair idea of what to do. I'm pretty sure I've done nearly everything I need to to the main box so can start mixing up epoxy and painting it on and then finish up glueing the floors and door frames.

Keep in touch!!!

[pods8]

Stage Ten – Doors
This leaves a 8mm gap for the compression bulb seal I'll fit to the doors.

You going surface mounted for the seal? I pondered this one myself, I don't know how robust it will be but figured it'd be the easiest and can be replaced as needed.

[Heifer Boy]

You going surface mounted for the seal? I pondered this one myself, I don't know how robust it will be but figured it'd be the easiest and can be replaced as needed.

Yes I am. I'm using the attached EDPM Buld Seal with Wing one which was recommended to me by Scott at Concept Camping Concepts http://compactcampingconcepts.com/ (thanks Scott). We had a chat about seals and he sent me a link and I was able to find the same seal in Oz.

Because my camper box (and Scott's Explorer Box) is wood it is very hard to attach a pinchweld seal to the door or frame unless I muck around with angles or channels. It's easier to use a self adhesive strip and this one is perfect. I've used self adhesive foam tape before and it sticks and doesn't let go. This bulb seal should be a whole lot better at keeping out the weather though.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/D-Seal.jpg

[pods8]

Funny that is the same seal that is at the top of my short possibles list. I mainly worry about the hinge side of the door since it'll shear across the seal as it closes much more than the other areas which more or less just compress the seal vertically. But as I said its easy enough to replace/reglue/etc. something simplistic like that over time.

[trailrunner]

cool build man

[Heifer Boy]

cool build man

Thanks man :coffee:

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Eleven – Disaster!!

Well it had to happen. Things were going far to well and it was time for a set back. And it's a doozy...

I checked and double checked all my measurements a long time ago taking into account a bit of space around the box so I could fit some foam tape to the outside to protect it from excessive rubbing on the tub. No problems with that but guess what I didn't account for?

The hinges for the main door!!! :Wow1:

It never even crossed my mind until I finished the doors and started looking at mounting them. Aaarrrggghhh!!! A test fit confirmed it for me. I couldn't close the tailgate!!! Aaarrrggghhh!!!! Deep breath, deep breath, deep breath....

I'm using a nice Stanley Gate Hinge I saw on Jess's famous Sawtooth XL build http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18142 They are a great hinge with a nice smooth bearing but the pin has a 15mm overall depth and I factored in a 10mm gap front to back for the foam tape. Unless I did some major tailgate panel beating it wasn't going to happen.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7609.jpg

So how do I get the 15mm extra space I need? I investigated different hinges but the right kind of sizes all had pins around the same diameter and it took me age to find these black hinges anyway. Rebating the hinge would only give me 3mm and the door skins are only 4mm thick so that's not happening. Flipping the hinge around and rebating for the pin means the seal gets bumped off the door jamb and it pivots wrong anyway so that was out. The solution – do it properly and cut the back panel off, remove 15mm from the walls and floor and glue it back up!!!

It sounds pretty dramatic but it was the only way to fix it properly. But it was a hard decision to make after all my work so far. Oh well...these things happen. So a combination of circular saw, jigsaw, 4” grinder and mostly a panel saw and off it came. The panel saw was great at doing a flush cut and I could take my time and be accurate I had to be careful not to remove too much as the back panel was 9mm thick already and I only wanted to remove 15mm overall so there was not much space to move in. The hardest part – after starting that is – was getting through the epoxy fillets. That stuff sets hard and wrecks your tools!!! Three jigsaw blades and a severely blunted panel saw later and it was done.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7610.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7612.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7613.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7614.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7615.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7616.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7618.jpg

I then trimmed up the fillets with a router to remove as much epoxy as possible from the sides, floor and back panel so I had a flat surface work with. I also re-routered the dado down the centre of the back panel and restored it back to it's original measurements. It was nice to be able to reuse this panel rather than have to buy a new sheet. Careful cutting saved it. A bunch of very careful measurements later and I removed a total of 15mm off the floor and cut back the walls an extra 9mm to fit the back panel. Then I re-drilled the screw holes I had already filled, dry screwed the back panel in place, removed it again and finally epoxied it back in place. Filleting was done this morning.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7624.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7626.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7627.jpg

So three days later it looks exactly like it did on Tuesday but is in fact 15mm shorter!!! There is plenty of room for the hinges and I still have some free space around the box. I have to trim the middle floors and the side door frames to fit the new dimension but that won't take much. Luckily I have 100mm to play with on the door frame length and not just the 40mm jamb used elsewhere.

So even though I thought I had thought of everything the simplest of mistakes slipped my mind. Luckily I hadn't gotten much further with the glue up of the middle floors and door frames or it would have been a major problem to fix. It was still a pain but I managed to get it done pretty easily in the end. It's definitely not something I want to do again though... Phew!!!

[pods8]

Stage Eleven – Disaster!!
The hardest part – after starting that is – was getting through the epoxy fillets. That stuff sets hard and wrecks your tools!!! Three jigsaw blades and a severely blunted panel saw later and it was done.

Bummer dude, but way to do it right. Go get a beer!

The epoxy really sets, also if you have any glass in your fillet compound you have to keep in mind you're basically sawing through fused sand (ie rock)!

[Billhilly]

What he said! Go have (another) beer.
We all do these things, think we have though of everything but.....
Nice fix, deep breath (be thankful it didn't cost $$$), and carry on.

[dwh]

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_eIRZl6Cv0yo/R1baI-jyveI/AAAAAAAAAss/ADfq4MlOR1s/s400/homer_doh.gif

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/~tavish/chainsaw.gif

http://legendsofbeer.files.wordpress.com/2008/12/smiling20with20a20duff20beer.gif

[indiedog]

HB, you've got your work cut out for you. Making the box for one, and doing writeups on a couple of sites. :D You are no doubt a busy boy. Well done for flying the Aussie flag. :sombrero:

[Heifer Boy]

HB, you've got your work cut out for you. Making the box for one, and doing writeups on a couple of sites. :D You are no doubt a busy boy. Well done for flying the Aussie flag. :sombrero:

All for the love of it...:bike_rider:

[r_w]

You are not the first to make that mistake, but may be the first to fix it right.


I would have attacked the tailgate.

[Heifer Boy]

Electrical Questions

So I've been investigating the electrical situation for the camper box and found it is definitely not my strong point. But it's something I need to sort out before I glue too much more together or I'll just make it harder for myself to install further down the line. I already have a second battery connected and isolated from the stating battery so I'm good to there. My issue is the 'simple' process of wiring up outlets, the LED lights, the water pump and the fridge to this battery inside the camper.

Firstly, my camper is a slide on and is made of wood. So earthing each light etc to a chassis is not going to happen. Negatives will be returned to the battery (unless someone has a better idea).

Secondly, I will be having 3x LED lights, 3x internal outlets, 2x external outlets, water pump and fridge. For fusing I was thinking of grouping the lights together, splitting the outlets 3 ways with 2 outlets on each fuse (left, right and rear + water pump) and fusing the fridge separately Later I will add some lights to the tent too. We run a very low power, low consumption, low impact, low water use campsite so lights will be a foreign concept as is a water pump. It will be rare that more than the fridge is used 90% of the time.

Thirdly, I'm think I'm up to speed on wire sizes, fusing and calculating necessary cable sizes and fuses. Maths is easy.

So I bought a fuse block like this http://www.baintech.com.au/fuse-blocks-holders/baintech-auto-fuse-block-lateral-connection-4-pole-8-terminals and then realised I have to have separate wires in to the fuse box from the battery and separate wires out with separate negatives returning to the battery?!? Messy!

I then read about 'buss bars' and this seems to make more sense. 1x power in, separate wires out to fuse box and on to lights etc. Negatives back to another buss bar with a single wire back to the battery. What does everyone think?

I've read comments questioning a negative buss but I think this is because earths can be sent elsewhere in the case of a camper trailer etc. Is there combinations of 'buss bar and blade fuse box in one'? I've only seen marine switch panels do this which I don't want/need. Also is it OK to group things together and just split the wires closer to the device (ie single wire from the fuse box split to inside outlet and outside outlet closer to them – in series of course).

I think I may be over thinking all this because it's an unknown to me. I'm guessing it's pretty simple but I just need o get the right hardware. There are so many different options and I want to keep it simple but safe.

Cheers,
HB

[pods8]

Here's my take on your electrical questions:

First off, running the negatives back to the battery is the proper way, going to chassis is a short cut method to save on wiring (the chassis is used as a conductor back to the battery). Do it right.

Combining items on fuses is fine assuming you're using the right components. The whole point of fuses is to protect the wiring connected to them. So if you want to run 2x the load on one fuse then you need a fuse & wiring rated for that. It is fairly common practice to group up low amp draw items like lights together and then provide individual fuses for higher amp draw items (houses in the US are wired similarly). The only down side on a combined fuse situation is you might not know what item down the line blew the fuse as easily if you have to trouble shoot something, but for the way your are doing it the split up sounds fine to me.

I'll have to check your fuse link later, but in general bus bars are a nice way to "clean up" the wiring layout in my mind.

Yes running one line and then sending a branch to each item on the circuit is common place. One clarification, you need to be careful on your wording, you'll actually be wiring in parallel not series. I think you just wanted to use a different word other than "series" in your description of wiring one after another along the circuit. Actual series wiring is a different deal. I'll explain below:

Series wiring (you don't want this) divides the voltage up among each item on the circuit while holding the current the same (translation: voltage drops to low and current goes to high for each item on your 12V system). To wire in series you just have one line making a loop back to the battery with each user spliced in.

Parallel wiring (this is what you want) keeps the voltage the same through each branch, along the main line the current adds up but each branch only sees its current draw (translation: voltage and current are correct for your 12V item). Think of parallel wiring as a ladder, one side rail is the positive and the other is the negative. Each rung would be each user on your circuit, each rung see's the full voltage but only carries the load on it where as the side rails carry the cumulative load.

Make enough sense? I can sketch/scan it if you need me to (or there is likely a drawing on the internet).

Edit: See if this comes through from the net:http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTFXrK2k0NpqxKvFgCddwdPFIBTlcdIx QzFUUbey3h18Mw_IW1o&t=1

[compactcamping]

HB, was sorry to read about your door / hinge mishap. Love your DIY tenacity, I'll just cut it up and glue it back together :clapsmile

[dwh]

x2 on what pods8 said.

Bus bars are the best way - it's what is used in your house electrical panel. A positive bus bar with fuses or breakers hanging off of it is good. Also having a negative bus bar is even better.

(And it's bus, not buss - often confused - Buss is a very old brand name in the electrical biz. :D )

Sure you can split off the wiring to supply multiple loads such as two power ports on one fuse. Keep in the mind the fuse is to protect the wire, so when you split, don't go from a larger wire to a smaller - keep the same sized wire all the way through the circuit. You don't want section of 15a wire being protected by a 20a fuse.

Use stranded wire, not solid. Use crimped connectors, not soldered. Vibration tends to cause stranded wire to work back and forth, and eventually break at the point where it becomes solid (where the solder starts).


There are tons of fuse boxes/blocks for 12v use that have bus bars in them. What you need is probably something like this:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/media/6_fuse_panel.jpg

That's just a standard Buss ATC fuse block with a bus bar down the center that feeds the fuses. You should be able to find it easily at a local auto parts or car audio shop - they're common as dirt. You can see the end of the bus bar sticking out, so it should be obvious where the incoming hot wire connects. :)

[pods8]

Keep in the mind the fuse is to protect the wire, so when you split, don't go from a larger wire to a smaller - keep the same sized wire all the way through the circuit. You don't want section of 15a wire being protected by a 20a fuse.

Yes, my statements up above weren't entirely clear on this and I see someone might assume they can use less wiring on the branches which is wrong. The whole circuit should be the same wiring. The statements about the branches not having to carry all the amperage means that your 12V item on that branch isn't seeing more amperage than is intended for it

[Heifer Boy]

Here's my take on your electrical questions:


Thanks for the detailed explanation pods8. It's how I was thinking but I hadn't seen it explained so well before. I thought it was pretty simple.

I have seen that series/parallel sketch before and had the parallel picture in my head but wrote series instead. My bad...:coffee:


There are tons of fuse boxes/blocks for 12v use that have bus bars in them. What you need is probably somethin g like this:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/media/6_fuse_panel.jpg



Damn terminology got the better of me again. A quick search on fuse 'block' and I've found loads of what I was looking for. It's not a fuse 'box' at all :wings:

I also read a bunch of your replies in other threads and your information helped a lot in getting my mind around it all. Good common sense stuff you don't always think about. Thanks.


Yes, my statements up above weren't entirely clear on this and I see someone might assume they can use less wiring on the branches which is wrong. The whole circuit should be the same wiring. The statements about the branches not having to carry all the amperage means that your 12V item on that branch isn't seeing more amperage than is intended for it

I've got some 4mm/20A cable to use everywhere from the battery on. I'm was thinking of using two fuse blocks though. One up the front near the battery for the front outlets and lights and one down the back for the fridge, rear outlet, rear light and water pump. I think it would be easier to run the one pair of wires (+ and -) down the back rather than four pairs and split from there.

Sound OK?


HB, was sorry to read about your door / hinge mishap. Love your DIY tenacity, I'll just cut it up and glue it back together :clapsmile

Cheers Scott, all part of the learning process...

[Heifer Boy]

I've got some 4mm/20A cable to use everywhere from the battery on. I'm was thinking of using two fuse blocks though. One up the front near the battery for the front outlets and lights and one down the back for the fridge, rear outlet, rear light and water pump. I think it would be easier to run the one pair of wires (+ and -) down the back rather than four pairs and split from there.

Sound OK?


I've just realised that this will mean 4 fuse blocks needed - 2x positive and 2x negative. Not very practical. Then I found this 12 Gang Fuse Panel with Ground Bus http://www.slipstreamhover.com/PhotoDetails.asp?ShowDESC=N&ProductCode=PRT-ELT-12GangFusePanel

Am I right in thinking positive wire into the centre stud and out through the fuses, negative wires back into the bottom blade connectors with a single wire out from the bottom stud back to the battery?

[dwh]

Am I right in thinking positive wire into the centre stud and out through the fuses, negative wires back into the bottom blade connectors with a single wire out from the bottom stud back to the battery?

Yup. :D

Negatives don't get fused, only the positives. The fuse on the positive protects the entire circuit (dunno if you Aussies call it a "loop" :) ). That unit you linked to has a negative bus which is handy. From that bus, yes, the main negative wire goes back to the battery.

Here's another view:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/media/6_fuse_panel_ground.jpg



You also need to protect the positive wire feeding in to that fuse block. In my old (I mean - vintage!) camper, there was a 50a fuse to do that. I replaced it with a Bussman 12v breaker. I used Type 2 "modified reset" which requires you to remove power before it resets. I wanted that because if the big supply wire shorts out, then I DON'T want it coming back on until I've checked it out.

For smaller "branch circuits" I'll commonly use the Type 1 "auto reset".

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d60.html


EDIT: The reason I replaced that 50a fuse with a breaker, was simply because the fuse holder was old and oxidized and making intermittent contact. Since I had to take it out anyway, I went ahead and just replaced it with a breaker. Fuses are fine and I would have left it if I hadn't been getting a dodgy connection out of it.

[Kilroy]

Great write up. I've had some experience fixing a wooden boat, your building techniques are just the thing for a camper build up. Really appreciate your testing of construction techniques and your detailed write up. Folks who haven't tried epoxy techniques don't understand what a great product it is. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Thanks for posting.

[Heifer Boy]

Great write up. I've had some experience fixing a wooden boat, your building techniques are just the thing for a camper build up. Really appreciate your testing of construction techniques and your detailed write up. Folks who haven't tried epoxy techniques don't understand what a great product it is. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Thanks for posting.


Thanks Kilroy. I don't know why more teardrops aren't built this way as they are the mostly wood. I guess unless it used offroad then they just don't need the strength and the extra cost. For the home builder like me it's a great way to build and perfect for light expedition trailers too.

Keep watching...

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Eleven – Epoxy The Inside

Just before I had to cut my creation in half last time, I was finalising the interior and about to do the first epoxy coat. It has all been filleted and I'd fitted the drawer slides and done about all I could while there were no floors to get in the way and it was easier to get to.

Time to start epoxying!!!

The first interior epoxy coat is mixed with BoteCote TRPDA which is their penetrating formula like CPES. Everything on the inside from the middle floors down got a coat of this stuff including the bottom of the floors yet to be fitted. This is so I don't have to lie on my back painting this stuff on while jammed in a small box later on!!! The rest of the interior will get a coat of this too and this is all I'm going to do for the majority of the inside as it's not going to be subject to weather.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7661.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7662.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7663.jpg

I did do a second coat of full strength epoxy on the floor though and about 100mm up the sides because my storage drawer and fridge drawer are going to slide on this hard surface. It also creates a a waterproof 'tub' in case of water spills and general knocking about. It is the floor after all.

Before I did all of this I built a small shelf for the water pump I'm installing. This was just epoxied in place and gets the pump off the floor of the camper in a nice tidy hole I can still get too if necessary.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7628.jpg

So now I have a nice, shiny, waterproof, rock hard interior finish. Yay!!!

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Twelve – The Main Door

It was time to test fit the main door before gluing up any more pieces of the camper to finalise some details. The main door is 1.2m long and is to be side hung so I am using three of the nice Stanley hinges that caused me so much trouble earlier. There are only two in the photos but the third has been fitted since.

I supported the door and carefully packed it so it fit the frame properly and screwed it all together. However, as soon as I opened the door it dropped about 25mm because the whole frame twisted under the weight!!! It's a pretty hefty door. It's not so bad when it is fully open as it is pulling on the camper at 90 degrees but the box is still pretty flimsy without any floors or walls in place. It should stiffen up nicely once this is done.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7666.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7668.jpg

Overall, very happy with the door. It will have a drop down table, the water tap and some lighting in it when finish. I did this test fit so I could figure out where the water hoses and power cable would go and finalise the storage slide positions. Better now while I can still see inside the box rather than after everything is glued in place!!!

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Thirteen – Floors and Walls

With all the detail finalised there was no reason not to epoxy the rest of the box together. So I did!!

I had one last last task to do though. Cut an access hatch into the top of the fridge box so I can get to the water jerry can that sits behind the fridge. This is to disconnect the hose when I need to change jerrys. I like this hatch a lot. Really simple, neat and tidy. And in the right place too!!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7664.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7665.jpg

Glueing up the floors was easy as they are just flat pieces of ply that locate into the dado cut in the centre panel. Everything had been dry screwed before so I just mixed up the epoxy and stuck it together. Messy stuff but really, really strong.

The walls are actually door frames for the side doors and are made the same way as the main door frame. 12mm ply outside, 9mm ply inside with a 15mm smaller hole to create the door jamb. These were laminated together and then epoxied in place once the floors were done.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7681.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7682.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7683.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7684.jpg

The flimsy box I mentioned earlier is now gone and it's all stiffened up considerably. I still have to fillet everything which will make it absolutely rock solid and I haven't even put the top on yet. It's now time for the final fit out and finish to start.

[pods8]

What method did you find worked well for the epoxy coating? Roller, squeege, brush?

[Heifer Boy]

A thin foam roller was the go with just a brush for the corners. I'll use a squeege first when I use the fibreglass on the outside and then roll to complete.

[indiedog]

Looking good HB. :wings:

[windsock]

A thin foam roller was the go with just a brush for the corners. I'll use a squeege first when I use the fibreglass on the outside and then roll to complete.

G'day Heifer Boy,

I've been reading your thread with interest. Some very fine workmanship. When we were glassing up the cloth on boats we would use a laminated grooved roller for spreading resin and then working air out of the weave. Closest thing I could find online is on this page (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/grooveroller.php). Once the air had been worked out then a smooth roller to finish up and make sure of an even spread of resin over the matting or cloth.

All the best with the final stages then use.

Cheers,

Phil

[Heifer Boy]

When we were glassing up the cloth on boats we would use a laminated grooved roller for spreading resin and then working air out of the weave.

Hi Phil. I've got one of those rollers too but haven't used it yet. I thought the it was just for working the matting flat rather than spreading out the resin. My thoughts on the process were -

1. Mix up and roll on epoxy using foam roller
2. Lay on fibreglass matting
3. Roll out with grooved roller
4. Pour on and spread out more epoxy with a squeege to get into the weave
5. Roll on final coat with foam roller

I was going to roll wet-on-tacky to save sanding between coats. From your statement it looks like this might be more like it -

1. Mix up and roll on epoxy using foam roller
2. Lay on fibreglass matting
3. Pour on and spread out more epoxy with a grooved roller to get into the weave
4. Roll on final coat with foam roller

This sound about right?

[pods8]

Are you using fiberglass matting or cloth? Matting supposedly doesn't work that well with epoxy since there isn't any styrene to dissolve the binder.

I was mainly interested what you found worked well on bare wood. When it comes to the glass work, if you could do each plane in the horizontal I'd think just sticking with a squeegee would be the easiest since its easy to push resin around and work bubbles all with one tool. However the vertical sides make a roller likely need. After the cloth has set up and you're working to fill the weave a roller would make sense to me if you're not making up a fairing compound.

[windsock]

G'day Heifer Boy,

When we were working on the boats vertical and unusual angles from the horizontal was the norm. As Pods8 states and something I didn't consider straight away, you can flip the box around to work in the horizontal pretty much on demand. You then have bubbles floating to the surface as a natural event rather than as with our work where we had to physically force the bubbles to the surface once the resin was applied (if vertical or upsidedown by brush or spray). I guess what ever method works for you to get the bubbles out would be apprpriate. See if the roller works, otherwise continue as you have been. One thing we found with the roller though. Maintenance on it between uses was critical as if the roller became stiff with a resin build up in the shaft area it moved the cloth around too much. Your method of foam roller, squeegy sounds good in this respect.

Looking on with continued interest.

[Heifer Boy]

Are you using fiberglass matting or cloth?

I was mainly interested what you found worked well on bare wood. When it comes to the glass work, if you could do each plane in the horizontal I'd think just sticking with a squeegee would be the easiest since its easy to push resin around and work bubbles all with one tool. However the vertical sides make a roller likely need. After the cloth has set up and you're working to fill the weave a roller would make sense to me if you're not making up a fairing compound.

Sorry. Terminology got the better of me again. I mean fibreglass cloth!! No fairing compound... it's not that critical to me.


When we were working on the boats vertical and unusual angles from the horizontal was the norm. As Pods8 states and something I didn't consider straight away, you can flip the box around to work in the horizontal pretty much on demand. You then have bubbles floating to the surface as a natural event rather than as with our work where we had to physically force the bubbles to the surface once the resin was applied (if vertical or upsidedown by brush or spray). I guess what ever method works for you to get the bubbles out would be apprpriate. See if the roller works, otherwise continue as you have been. One thing we found with the roller though. Maintenance on it between uses was critical as if the roller became stiff with a resin build up in the shaft area it moved the cloth around too much. Your method of foam roller, squeegy sounds good in this respect.

I plan to roll the camper box around on the floor so the majority of my work is on a horizontal surface. Some bit will have to be vertical otherwise it would take me about a month to do all the surfaces!! Good tips about keeping the roller clean. I was wondering a bit how to use it properly.

Also, when ever I have looked at the boat and kayak building sites they are just laying large strips of cloth over the hull and butting the strips to each other down the length of the hull. But my camper is a bit of a different shape. When it comes to laying out the cloth I obviously want it to wrap over the corners for strength. For example, if I have the box upside down and am starting on the floor do I just cut the cloth so it is smaller than the depth of the box and run a strip across the floor and down each side. Then when I am doing the back wall I just wrap over the corner and butt it up against the first strip of cloth. I don't want to end the cloth at the corner joints.

I guess some of this can be done wet-on-wet but other sections will have to wait until dry and get sanded between coats so I can roll the box around. It will still take a few days to get it all covered but I can't think of another way to do it efficiently.

An ideas?

[pods8]

I guess some of this can be done wet-on-wet but other sections will have to wait until dry and get sanded between coats so I can roll the box around. It will still take a few days to get it all covered but I can't think of another way to do it efficiently.

An ideas?

FYI: You can still overlap in the tacky stage (you may be rolling that into your "wet" stage). If you need to wait till dry and you're just trying to eliminate the sanding step you can add a strip of peel ply in the areas you need to over lap. Supposedly you can just rip that off and layup right on it.

Peel ply: I'm not well versed in it and haven't played around with it yet but its my understanding its usually dacron or nylon type cloth (possibly treated, not sure if you can just use cheapo fabric from the store) that you layup as the last layer wetting it out like normal (probably would what to leave an exposed tail to grab onto). Its only superfically stuck there, the epoxy doesn't bite into the fibers, so when you grab the tail and rip it off it leaves a non-glossed surface (similar to what you want from sanding) exposed for laying up more laminations.

[Heifer Boy]

Peel ply: I'm not well versed in it...

I've read about this stuff too but I'm not too concerned about getting an absolutely perfect finish. It's like gelcoats as well. I've read about it but not getting into it for this build.

At the end of the day it's just a camper box that will get beaten up offroad so as long as it's strong, waterproof and dustproof I can live with a few dimples in the paintwork. A good sand a bit of filling should do the trick.

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Fourteen – Metalwork!!

Next up was the battery tray and the internal roof support. I need to get these done as they are being welded up offsite and I need them before putting the top on the box.

I already have a 90ah Deep Cell Fullriver AGM Battery which is my house battery. The spot it will fit in is in the front RH side on top of the fridge box. I needed to make a battery tray to hold it because the 9mm ply top ain't going to do it alone!!!

The battery is going to lie on it's side so a standard tray won't work. Some slotted angle from the local hardware and 4” grinder with a cut off wheel and I had a tray. Bingo!!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7673.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7674.jpg

This going to be welded to a steel plate folded up and bolted to three of the walls of the camper for support. All the weight will be taken vertically so the 9mm ply fridge box top is nearly taken out of the equation. A bit of Cardboard Aided Design later and I had it cut out of a sheet of steel picked up a local roofing supply. These guys will also do the welding and will fold up the plate for me although I had planned on doing this myself. That was until I destroyed my 20 year old Black and Decker Workmate trying to bend the plate between some angle iron. I tore the top right off it!!! D'oh!!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7677.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7678.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7676.jpg

Underneath the roof of the camper box I'm putting four 32 x 32 x 3mm aluminium angle cross pieces which will support the roof and act as a kind of internal roof rack. The roof top tent will be bolted through the roof and attach to these cross pieces. They help keep the box compact and mounts the tent as low as possible to the box.

The front and back cross pieces will be bolted to the front and back walls. The end will bolt to the side walls and there will be a support along the centre panel. The the middle two cross pieces will just attach to the side walls and centre panel. The RTT has two rails down the floor and these will bolt to each of the cross pieces. I think eight connection points should be strong enough!!!

So I cut up a bunch of brackets from the same angle and sent them off to the welder along with battery tray. Should get them back in a couple of days.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7700.jpg

[pods8]

I've read about this stuff too but I'm not too concerned about getting an absolutely perfect finish. .

I didn't mean to try and use peel ply for a surface finish aspect, only use it where you'll need to laminate over later (ie probably the perimeter) if you wanted. Since you peel it off you have a fresh ready to laminate surface ready without sanding. I was just mentioning it in case it helped out your efficiency at all. I don't really intent to mess with it at this point.

[Heifer Boy]

I didn't mean to try and use peel ply for a surface finish aspect, only use it where you'll need to laminate over later (ie probably the perimeter) if you wanted. Since you peel it off you have a fresh ready to laminate surface ready without sanding. I was just mentioning it in case it helped out your efficiency at all. I don't really intent to mess with it at this point.

I just re-read your post and the info I had on peel ply was different to yours. I had read that it is a finishing process for the final coat. After a quick search again it seems that it is for what you described - a way to leave a textured surface between coats. :Wow1:

I just read of a boat guy who leaves the peel ply in place until he has finished all his other jobs so it acts kind of like a drop sheet for the bottom of his boat.

I still think for the size of my camper I'll stick with a bit of sanding when needed but for a bigger job, peel ply could be real time saver. Thanks for the heads up.

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Fifteen – Sanding, filling, sanding, filling and more sanding...

Now the box is nearly complete it was time to finish the filleting and give the inside a coat of epoxy.

But before this it was time for one last test fit to ensure that it is all going to be ok. I didn't want to do all the finishing work to find out it doesn't fit again!!! All was well and it's going to look really good I think. Loads more storage space than last time.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7686.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7689.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7691.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7693.jpg

Filleting the inside of the storage boxes has got to be one of the hardest things I have done so far on this build. I put the box on the ground so I could wriggle into it on my back complete with respirator, gloves, glasses, a pot of thickened epoxy and various coving sticks. Two hours later after clambering around and getting up and down and sliding around on my back I emerged very sweaty with aching arms and with a few big blobs of epoxy stuck to my clothes!!! For a fairly simple process, doing it upside down made it a whole lot harder!!! It turned out OK but some of the corners are not for public viewing. The rest of the filleting (which is viewable) went considerably better and I am very happy with the result.

I let it all dry and started sanding. Back on my back and upside down again but this was a lot easier. Everything came up well but I made up some more thickened epoxy and finalised filling all the screw holes and patched a few bits of fillet where it would be noticeable Then I sanded again, then patched a tiny bit more and now it was ready to coat in thinned epoxy.

At the same time I also made up the roof of the box which required one last lap joint to made and glued. This is the biggest panel in the whole build – 1350mm x 1540mm.

Then I gave it all a coat of thinned epoxy. I coated the inside of everything – the main storage areas, the inside of the walls, the door jams, the inside of the roof and the inside of the doors. It's nice to have a lot to do to reduce wastage when it comes to brushes, rollers and trays. It looks all nice and shiny now and will be a good hardwearing surface.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7702.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7705.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7706.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7712.jpg

The door frames and inside of the doors will get two more coats of epoxy to properly seal them and make them 100% waterproof.

So I'm very close to the official finishing stages now... of the main box anyway. Only one more joint to glue when I put the top on and I can start glassing the outside. There is still a lot of detail work to do with fitting the water system, the electrics and building the storage and kitchen drawers so a way to go yet. I think I making pretty good progress so far though. I'm happy with it anyway... :)

[RTO_Tracker9]

The build is looking great! Can't wait to see the finished product!

[pods8]

Filleting the inside of the storage boxes has got to be one of the hardest things I have done so far on this build. I put the box on the ground so I could wriggle into it on my back complete with respirator, gloves, glasses, a pot of thickened epoxy and various coving sticks.

Coming along nicely!

How much vapor does the epoxy your using throw off? Respirator in the tight space is quite prudent, however have you been needing one when doing work out in the open? The stuff I've been using really doesn't have much noxious aspect to it and I've been fine with just having a draft moving through the room so far for the open air work.

[Heifer Boy]

I've been using the respirator and gloves every time I do some epoxy work. I think because you work so closely with a pot of epoxy when you are mixing it or spreading it that it's worth while even in an open space. I'm working in a large double garage with a couple of windows and always leave the one door up but it's pretty stinky when I take the mask off and if my partner walks in she can't stay for long with the smell. I wear the respirator sanding too.

I'm OK with the smell but I just don't think it's worth the risk for the minor hassle of wearing a respirator when your working. I've had experiance loosing a family member through asbestosis and although this is different stuff, toxic substances in the lungs is not nice.

My personal advise - wear a respirator.

[pods8]

Gloves are for sure a no brainer, I'll burn through a couple pairs each session (usually change out pairs when starting clean up). I've found the mechanics style nitrile gloves to hold up decently well and fit decently.

I haven't been wearing my respirator for the open layup work at this point, I had every intention of assuming I'd need to but to be honest I was surprised that the epoxy I'm using is actually quite low odor and I've not once gotten any hint of "funny fume feeling" while working out in the open in the garage yet. However I'll just been doing smaller ~1sqft test pieces and gluing core pieces together so far. I'll be laying up the 1/8" ply wood onto my floor core today which is ~50sqft so maybe I'll be changing up my impression there. I'm not discounting the noxious aspects of some epoxy's I've used some 5min stuff in the past that was quite rough but so far I've been pleasantly surprised on this project so far, the wife isn't complaining about it either which is a better indicator. :)

As always protect yourself as you see fit, I was just curious what your impressions were on the boatkote.

[Kilroy]

While epoxy has low odor, getting it on your skin and breathing it can lead to an allergic reaction to it.

Years ago (37?) I built a whitewater kayak with polyester resin. Part of it involved climbing into the kayak headfirst (this won't happen any more) to glass the two half's together. For days after, when I was jogging the smell of the resin was coming out of my lungs. Wonder how much time that will cost me?

Can't be too safe with these chemicals.

[pods8]

While epoxy has low odor, getting it on your skin and breathing it can lead to an allergic reaction to it.

Years ago (37?) I built a whitewater kayak with polyester resin. Part of it involved climbing into the kayak headfirst (this won't happen any more) to glass the two half's together. For days after, when I was jogging the smell of the resin was coming out of my lungs. Wonder how much time that will cost me?

Can't be too safe with these chemicals.

I always keep it off my skin for sure. I just finished spreading over a 50sqft layup and in the garage/temps/and brand I'm working with I'm really not getting much odor. Might just be naive on my part...

[Heifer Boy]

It's not so much the odour of the epoxy. Like I said before, smells like that don't bother me at all.

It's more that working with this stuff we are breathing in uncured epoxy fumes that ends up lining the lung capillaries and hardening. Over time that ain't a good thing. Like Kilroy said, I wonder how much time it costs us.

[Heifer Boy]

Gas Struts?

So now I’m finalising the details of my camper box one question has come up that I can’t answer… well not easily anyway. Hopefully someone can help.

I want to put a strut of some type on the main door to hold it open. I don’t need assistance with the weight of the door opening or closing because it’s side hung but I do want it to be held securely at 90 degrees to the box. So I did a big search on the net about gas struts and found a million complicated equations mostly related to lifting horizontally doors and whether or not the assistance required was for opening or closing. To confusing for this brain ???

As long as I get the open/close lengths right (easy) then I thought of maybe just getting a car bonnet strut from a wreckers and using that as it should hold the door open easily and not need too much force to close it.
Or should I just get an over-centre brace of some type like on the legs of a camp table and forget the gas strut?

What does everyone think?

[windsock]

If this is still the intention...

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/OurCamperBoxwDrawers.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7689.jpg

when the tailgate is down, I would have some form of pin that drops down from the door into a hole in an appropriate place on the horizontal surface of the tailgate. This way there is no gas strut or locking brace in the way of you getting into the work area directly infront of the box but the door is still 'held' open for use.

Looks fantastic, and well done on getting to the final stages.

[Heifer Boy]

when the tailgate is down, I would have some form of pin that drops down from the door into a hole in an appropriate place on the horizontal surface of the tailgate.

Looks fantastic, and well done on getting to the final stages.


Good idea!!! :wings:

I'm not really too keen on drilling a hole into the tailgate so the other option would be a bracket sticking off the top. Hmmm!?! I'll have to think on this a bit.

Thanks for the support.

[windsock]

OK, I can understand not wanting to drill the tailgate.

What about an extendable tubular (round, square or rectagular) arm. Dimension-wise, it would be at least as long as half two thirds of the door length. Inside this tube would be another tube the same length that can slide out to a point halfway along the door. The fit of the internal tube would be as snug as can be had

There would need to be some form of attachment from the tube to the door. A simple hook would suffice but it would need to be reasonably secure so as not to bounce around in any wind. It would lock the door at the angle you require. It would be rigid while in use but would slide away when not in use. It could either be mounted to the top of the box lid externally, or be mounted internally within the box. It could then become accessible once the door has been opened thereby avoiding water/dust ingress.

If mounted internally, I would look at what I was going to be storing on the shelf above the wheel-arch on the hinge-side of the door and utilise this in some way. I could well imagine it could be mounted to the underside of the shelf and slide out to attach to the door on the diagonal brace perhaps.

PS edit: I have just walked through an internal sliding doorway here at home and the slider would make an ideal and easy option to mount under the shelf. It would not be too rattly as the ball-bearing runners are snug. Caution would be needed to not over-extend the runner I think as it would all come tumbling apart. Just thinking too hard now probably.... :)

[Heifer Boy]

I've had a good look at my tailgate and it has a row of holes along the bottom to let water out but there are even a couple in the small side panels about halfway up. I would only be drilling about a 10mm hole and as long as it's painted after drilling then it won't rust. I can easily block it with a rubber grommet blank or plug if need be.

I'll have to check out these other holes after the next rain storm and see how much they let in but I can't really see a problem. It's a preferable option compared to a bracket for sure.

[windsock]

Just another option out of left-field. I was out in the workshop before and I picked up one of my welding magnets while tidying up and thought of your tailgate/door scenario. Screw a metal strip to your door and use one of these on your tailgate against the metal strip on the door. Some can hold up to 75lb in place.

http://www.magnet-tool.com/product-images/magnetic_assembly/fixing/welding_magnet_3.jpg

[indiedog]

Hi HB. Any progress? Or has Easter etc slowed you down?

[eugene]

why not let it go open a little more than 90 degrees and have a pin that drops down into the tailgate latch. Or attach the pin to a hinge so you fold the hinge out from the door then the pin drops down into the tailgate latch.

[EuroJoe]

:smiley_drive:

[Heifer Boy]

.
Firstly, apologies for not updating my build thread for so long. I just got sidetracked with family and the Easter/ANZAC day holidays. I don't know why I ended up putting family first but I guess something’s got to give. LOL!!! I have been making some progress over the last month and are now back into it full throttle. Thanks to those who asked if I had dropped off the planet or something.

Stage Sixteen – Completed Metalwork

All the folding and welding has been completed so I bolted up the battery tray with high tensile bolts and fitted the internal aluminium “roof rack” cross members. These were also bolted in place. I had some brackets made up with nuts welded to the undersides which I will fit to the truck tub and use to bolt the camper to the truck later on. These were all primed and the battery tray painted black and the brackets white to match the truck.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7723.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7724.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7726.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7727.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7728.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7738.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7739.jpg

Once the roof rails were in place, the top was test fitted and the Roof Top Tent finally put in place. I could then drill the mounting holes through the top and the rails to make sure everything would line up ok. Then it all got pulled apart...again.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7729.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7731.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7735.jpg

[Heifer Boy]

.
Stage Seventeen – Electrics

I have been spending a lot of time sorting out the electrics which was a total unknown to me as I've never done any before. But with everyone's help here and a bit of reading I bought everything I needed and gave it a go. I bought 1x 6 gang fuse block, 4x LED lights, 4x 12v marine outlets, 7x switches and lots of red and black wiring and I was in business. I also read up on joints and soldering techniques and this site http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281500 was easily the best I found on how to do it properly. Here is my first attempt following his instructions. Everything joint is twisted, soldered, heatshrunk and taped. It took a while and I only made a few mistakes.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7740.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7741.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/IMG_7742.jpg

The end result was a real spaghetti of wiring but I spent the time bundling them up in pairs and then stuffed it all into some split tubing. It could have been a bit tidier but I am very happy with it overall. I already had heavy duty cabling and a 50amp Anderson plug from my previous set up so will just use this for connection to the truck. I am using an old Engel fridge cable directly connected to the fuse block but have a spare cable with a cigar plug on the end in case there's a problem or I take the fridge outside and need to use one of the external outlets. The waterpump is also connected through a switch so I can turn it off in case of a problem. I've tested everything and there's no voltage drop anywhere so you can't get much better than that. Yay!!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110551.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110554.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110555.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110556.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110558.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110565.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110616.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110620.jpg

Loads of other photos in my Photobucket album. See Post #1 for a link.

I also made up the switch panels out of alloy angle, drilled some holes for the external outlets and painted and bolted down the battery tray with high tensile bolts. The battery was also put in place and strapped down.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110617.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110618.jpg

Once the wiring was finished and tidied up a bit I took the opportunity to cut some bootliner carpet for the storage spaces. I'm just going to stick this in place with double sided tape so if I need to change it or build some dividers to adjust the storage later on I can do it easily. I just pulled the carpet at the moment and will re-fit later.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110630.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110634.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110635.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110636.jpg

[Heifer Boy]

.
Stage Eighteen - Plumbing

At the same time as the electrics I was finalising the plumbing for the water system. A 20l jerry can will sit behind the fridge slide so I needed to finalise the jerry holder and rear storage box and sort out the hoses for this. I was going to use a hose quick connect on the filler cap but the proper food grade water hose is too stiff and space a bit tight for this. Instead I will just unscrew the cap and pull out the hose when I need to change the jerry. Now the hoses are the right length I can clamp all the joints properly and connect the water pump to the power.

Sorry no photos yet.

[Heifer Boy]

.

Stage Nineteen – Closing Up The Box!!!

With the electrics and plumbing sorted it was finally time to epoxy the top of the camper in place and seal the box up once and for all. Epoxy doesn't stick very well to aluminium so I used some Sikaflex on the 4 internal roof rails. Everything was mixed and spread in the appropriate places and the top was lowered into place for the last time. This was a big step as it's now finally a "box" and it's looking like the final product should. Yay!! :)

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110637.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110639.jpg

I wanted to get the electrics finished and the battery firmly in place before I committed to epoxying the lid of the camper in place so I didn't have to struggle with the battery fitting. I always intended to have the space to remove the battery if necessary but moving a 30kg battery around at arms length through the side door was never going to be easy. Once the lid was in place I quickly found out it would simply be impossible!!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110640.jpg

So out came the jigsaw again and I cut an access hole in the top, built and epoxied a frame in the hole and made up a hatch to fit. I'll screw this down with some pan head SS screws and seal up the gap with Sikaflex to keep it waterproof. I should only need to cut out the sealant if there is ever a problem with the battery but at least when I really need to I can get it out without breaking my arms off!!!

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110641.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110642.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110643.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110644.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110645.jpg

[indiedog]

Hey HB. What's happening???? Any progress?

[GregB_00XJ]

Nice build... looks great!

[Heifer Boy]

I'm still here guys. I've been busy filling and sanding and filling and sanding....and filling and sanding so that hasn't been very interesting. I have started fibreglassing the outside of the box though so that's cool.

The temperature here has dropped in the last few days to just above zero C so it's a bit cold to be doing much more laminating so I'll sit down and write up a proper progress report in the next couple of days.

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Twenty – Trimming

Now the box is actually a complete box I trimmed all the overhanging edges with a router and then went around it a second time with a round edge bit. This is so I can easily wrap the fibreglass cloth over the edges and it makes it look a whole lot better too.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110669.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110670.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110672.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110671.jpg

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Twenty One – Floor Support and Filling and Filleting

Now the box is upside down I added a reinforcing strip to the front edge of the floor at the main door opening This is going to take a bit of abuse sliding the drawers in and out over it so I am adding a piece of alloy angle to the edge and reinforcing underneath. This reinforcement is just another strip of marine ply laminated to the bottom and filleted to finish it off which will also have a layer of fibreglass over it.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110673.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110674.jpg

I also started filling in all the little screw holes and dents and chips with thickened epoxy and filleted the internal corners on the outside of the box for strength and to make a transition for the fibreglass cloth. I’m getting good at this now. I then sanded the whole box top to bottom. Then I did it again...then I touched things up and did it all again.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110678.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110679.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110680.jpg

Why does filling and sanding always seem to take so long!!!

Lastly the whole box was coated with epoxy thinned with TPRDA to get good penetration into the ply and it got a light sand when dry. The end result was a very nice, flat surface ready for the fibreglass.

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Twenty Two – Fibreglassing!!!

So now it comes to a stage I have been quite apprehensive about. It's obviously the final surface so I really don't want to stuff it up at this stage and although I'm comfortable enough with the epoxy now, I've never done any fibreglass lamination before. I was worried about how to actually wrap the box and what to do about joints in the cloth and corners etc. The main goal was to ensure that the joints in the box were wrapped properly as a lot of the boxes strength was coming from this.

So do I cut the cloth and tape the edges with say, a 50mm overlap and then infill the panels later or do I try and lay out large pieces of cloth and cover multiple panels in one go? Try and trim the cloth to do butt joints or just do lap joints and fair it later? I've been surfing a lot of wooden boat building sites (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f32/) again and asked a few questions on what to do and got excellent answers that both processes would be fine. So I'm doing a mixture of both but mostly large pieces of cloth. Everyone recommended that the lamination be done horizontally so I'm rolling the box around the floor to do just this and it makes it easy to lay out the cloth too. Other advice was that any overlaps be top over bottom to ensure waterproofness in the rain. Campers that can't be rolled around the floor are usually wrapped around the bottom working up to the top so you get a 'weatherboard' effect.

I started with the camper upside down and did the floor first. This way, hopefully by the time I get to the top and door frames I will know a bit more what I'm doing and any stuff ups won't be seen. The fibreglass cloth does not wrap around the edges from the bottom panel as the side panels are going to do this. It does wrap around the front of the main door frame though.

The cloth was laid out dry and trimmed to a basic shape and the epoxy mixed up. I poured the epoxy on and spread it out with a squeegee and brush. I took a lot of care at this stage as I didn't want too much epoxy. Just enough to wet out the cloth and ensure it sticks well. Inside corners and joints are by far the hardest part to get right. After a few hours the epoxy is still tacky I did the second coat just using a foam roller. By contrast, this was really easy. When this was dry I trimmed the edges with a Stanley knife and feathered a 50mm edge by sanding for the overlap to come later.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110683.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110684.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110686.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110687.jpg

Then I flipped the box on its side, taped off the 50mm overlap using masking tape and laminated the side panel the same way as before wrapping over the bottom panel. When the second coat was dry I trimmed along my tape edge with a Stanley knife and pulled off the excess. Excellent. This overlap was also feathered flat by sanding.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110843.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110844.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110846.jpg

Then I flipped it again and did the other side.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110847.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110848.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110849.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110850.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110852.jpg

Then the bottom of the overhangs was done the same way and then the back panel. This overlapped all the other panels except the top. I did this as these corners and edges will be forced into the wind and rain when driving down the road at 110kph.
Last of all I covered the top wrapping over the front, back and sides to create a nice “hat” for the camper. This took two pieces of cloth so there is a joint down the middle.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110921.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110922.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110923.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110925.jpg

Oh yeah…I did the doors too.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110855.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110856.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110858.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110862.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110863.jpg

All this took me quite some time because of the change in the weather. Those of you in Australia will know that the South East coast has been getting hammered by freezing cold southerly weather system and the temp has dropped to freezing and below. Record low daytime temps have followed to and this is not good for epoxy. I’m just working in a cold metal garage so it’s been taking 3 days to get the epoxy to set hard enough to sand so I can overlap the next layer. At least I could do second coat wet on wet after a few hours but it’s taken me 3 weeks from starting the floor to finishing the top!!!
So now I have to lightly sand the whole thing again and feather the overlap joints flat and will then I will roll 2 more thin coats of epoxy over everything to fill the weave properly and seal the whole box up. It’s important that I get the edges between outside of the door and the inside of the frame coated nicely to weatherproof it well. Then it’s time to paint!!!

But after all that I might clean up the workshop a bit first... :Wow1:

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110926.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110927.jpg

[indiedog]

Looking very good HB. :wings: I too am very nervous about fibreglassing. Looks like you are doing a great job.

I've always wondered if the epoxy is tintable? It seems a bit silly that at the end of it all a paint finish still has to be applied. That's not how kayaks etc are made so there's got to be a way, I think.....

[Heifer Boy]

I've always wondered if the epoxy is tintable? It seems a bit silly that at the end of it all a paint finish still has to be applied. That's not how kayaks etc are made so there's got to be a way, I think.....

Epoxy is tintable but it's just not used much. It's just a pigment powder that gets added when the resin and hardner are mixed. I guess you would have to be very careful with the ratios to get an even colour.

Fibreglass kayaks are built in a mould that's first painted with a coloured GelCoat then sprayed with chopped strand mat mixed with polyester resin to built up the wall thickness. Very different stuff and a competely different process. Unless it's a wooden kayak of course and then it's built the same way as my box.. or my box it built the same way as them... or something like that.

Technically I don't need to prime before I paint coz the epoxy does that job for me but I am because I'm painting it white and need a base colour first. It will show up any major bumps and hollows too.

[pods8]

But after all that I might clean up the workshop a bit first... :Wow1:

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110926.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110927.jpg

Nice work!

I hear you on the shop part, I've had some bit shop vac sessions to suck up foam dust from my sanding but my work bench it pretty messy with epoxy stuff, fillers, etc. Once I get this last round of sanding done I'll need to to a big cleaning session before glassing.



I've always wondered if the epoxy is tintable? It seems a bit silly that at the end of it all a paint finish still has to be applied. That's not how kayaks etc are made so there's got to be a way, I think.....

It's tint able with pigment powder as HB mentioned. However don't forget that UV can degrade epoxy as well which is where paint is again helpful, or if you wanted a clear UV resistant coat (I think they make some UV varnish or such if you wanted to pursue that route).

[Birder]

It's tint able with pigment powder as HB mentioned. However don't forget that UV can degrade epoxy as well which is where paint is again helpful, or if you wanted a clear UV resistant coat (I think they make some UV varnish or such if you wanted to pursue that route).

Not sure about the USA but in the UK they use coloured 2 part epoxy paint to re-coat swimming pools, boats and floors, and it supposed to be OK in UV light. Maybe worth checking.

http://www.antel-uk.co.uk (http://www.antel-uk.co.uk/)

[Heifer Boy]

Standard paint is all that's needed to UV protect the epoxy. It is simply a barrier so doesn't need to be anything special. Normal varnish will do the trick too boaties who want a 'bright' finish.

But the big question is what to paint it with. I've been reading up on paints and what people use for campers and obviously the 2-pack automotive is the bees knees. Next popular would be single pack epoxy and then marine paints. But these are all expensive, sometimes hard to apply and it's not a boat so isn't sitting in water all day. I won't be spraying either.

Very popular for you guys in the US is Rustoleum which is similar to our Kill-Rust and Hammertone paints. It's a really hard enamel available everywhere. The problem is it so hard it can crack with movement and although I like the simplicity and finish I'm not sure it's right for this wooden box coated in a nice flexy epoxy even though the box seem extremely stiff. It's still a big contenter though as I can roll it, it has good knock protection and I can even polish it.

But then I read a post from a guy who had worked in the paint industry for 35 years and I was able to confirm his thoughts elsewhere. He said that the industry spends 90% of there research dollars on house paint because that's where the market is. External paints in particular have to be able to be applied easily and last for years and years with no maintainance because homeowners expect it. So a high quality, brand name external latex paint is some of the most advanced, long lasting and hardwearing on the market. Easily found, easy to apply and easy to repair if needed. So maybe a high gloss exterior latex is the way to go.

I'm going to be rolling it over a coat of a White Knight epoxy grip primer and I'm a good painter so am happy I can get a good finish this way.

So what does everyone else think? Kill-Rust or Exterior Latex?

[windsock]

G'day HB,

I'd go with the house paint concept (exterior latex sounds interesting in more ways than one :D). I'd investigate what paint is used most often in the part of Australia you are in or intend to travel most in. If it stands up to the climate on houses in those areas it ought to do just fine on your camper-box.

Looking very good. :wings:

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Twenty Three – Final Sand and Painting!!!

Once the epoxy was nice and hard the whole box got a rough sand to feather all the joints and I then sanded it again with a fine grit paper to give a good surface to paint on.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110935.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110945.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110949.jpg

In the end I decided to paint the box with Kill-Rust Enamel and I read in many places that a primer was not required over epoxy at it is a suitable enough surface to go straight into the top coats. So I sanded the box, dusted it down, wiped it down with meths and vacuumed the whole workshop before starting but it wasn’t going to be that simple.

Something contaminated the paint!!!

As it dried small craters called ‘fisheyes’ started appearing in the paint surface and investigation suggested it was something like silicon or aerosol or oil on the surface. I couldn’t think what it could be because I was so careful with the prep. Finally decided it was either the cloth I wiped it down with or the anti-rust additives in Kill-Rust reacting with the epoxy. Unfortunately I had painted all the bottom surfaces and the three doors. AARRGGHH!!! :(

Because it is so cold I had to wait 72 hours for things to harden enough to be able to sand it all off. Out came the belt sander, detail sander and sanding block and as carefully as I could, that’s exactly what I did. There are a few gouges and over sanded bits but overall I was happy with it and I got it all off. Sad after I had such a good surface before. There were no craters in the epoxy so it was just the paint surface that was the issue. Then I cleaned and vacuumed everything again and wiped it down with new, washed cotton rags and a proper automotive ‘Degreaser/De-waxer’ and I was finally back to where I started again.

This time I just painted the small hatch cover and used Norglass Weatherfast Premium Enamel Gloss. It’s designed for this stuff so epoxy issues should be a non-issue.

I waited a bit and…same thing again!!! What the…!!! :Wow1:

This time I wiped the paint off with thinners so I didn’t have to sand again but then it was back to the paint shop for some Norglass NoRust All Surface Primer which is suppose to stick to anything and perfect over epoxy. All this paint is getting expensive!!!
I painted the primer on a different test piece…waited a bit and… it was perfect!!! YAY!!! :wings:

It was the nice smooth finish I was after in the first place. So everything got a coat of primer and two top coats of the marine paint with a light sand between each coat and now I had a nice, shiny, gloss white box. Why couldn’t it have been this simple 3 weeks ago?

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110984.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110985.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110987.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110989.jpg

So in hindsight I don’t think it had anything to do with using Kill-Rust or not using primer or painting straight over epoxy. It was some external contamination and I still don’t know what it could have been. I do have to say that the Norglass paints are absolutely wonderful to use and I won’t hesitate to use them again. Goes on really easily, paint right to the edge, no runs and it sands beautifully. Lightyears ahead of anything I’ve ever used before and I’ve painted a lot of things over the years.

But...there’s always a but…all is not perfect. When I flipped the box over and was doing the top panel there still appeared a lot of fisheye craters. Every other panel is fine except for the top. All the panels were prepared the same way and wiped down the same way so there is still a mystery going on in my garage. None of the craters will be seen as it is underneath the RTT but it’s really disappointing and I know it’s there and not right. I didn’t take any photos of all the mess first time around as I was busy sanding it all off.

Before I flipped the box I also attched the pine runners to the bottom that will help it slide into the back of my ute. These are just bolted on and are expendable if necessary.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110991.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110992.jpg

At least all the doors and visible stuff looks great. The box looks fantastic and I’m super happy with it. I love the contrast between the gloss white exterior and the wood interior. It’s going to have a real ‘wow’ factor when I open it up. Yippee!!! :)

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110993.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110995.jpg
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110998.jpg

Next step…assemble all the pieces!!!

[Billhilly]

Fantastic job Heifer Boy! Stage Twenty Three! Over here there is a DB (beer) ad, 'That man deserves a DB!' You, deserve a beer, or two! Great to see you work through all the issues and get er done. Can't wait to see it on your ute.

[Heifer Boy]

'That man deserves a DB!'

Thanks Billhilly but I'm more of a Speights man myself :beer: It's a shame I can't get over here.

[pods8]

Looking good! Even when stuff doesn't "require" a primer I tend to find it definitely helps to use one...

When you say "fish eye" are you talking about what we sometimes call pin holes? Supposedly fiberglass work can be notorious for it. It happens because there are little holes in the piece that are hard to see. Sometimes they get bridged (but not filled) by the primer and later on the bridge collapses or blows out (from expanding air). It's more problematic with using micro balloon fillers I read but I'm sure it's an issue with straight glass too. Rolling a coat or two of epoxy on after all the fairing work (then just a quick sanding of that) is supposed to help cut down on the problem, also after priming and quick sanding really inspect the piece of any pin holes and use a glazing putty if needed. At least that is the advice I've read so far.

[compactcamping]

Heifer Boy Looking Good! You'll be camping with it in no time.

What might have caused the fish eye is "blush", it's a waxy bi-product from the curing process of epoxy. Some are worst than others. Solvents does not remove it, it's removed with water.

[Heifer Boy]

Looking good! Even when stuff doesn't "require" a primer I tend to find it definitely helps to use one...

When you say "fish eye" are you talking about what we sometimes call pin holes?

I think you a right with the primer advice. I think I was subconsciously trying to cut corners by avoiding another coat and getting it done. The primer made all the difference.

I do have some pinholes too which are as you described. Pretty much unfilled weave despite all the coats of epoxy. It's only in the small overlaps around the edges and I put it down to being a first timer. Something to think about next time.

The fisheyes are small oily looking craters that you can tell are caused by something on the surface rather than a mechanical hole in the weave. They are 1mm to 3 mm across maybe.


Heifer Boy Looking Good! You'll be camping with it in no time.

What might have caused the fish eye is "blush", it's a waxy bi-product from the curing process of epoxy. Some are worst than others. Solvents does not remove it, it's removed with water.

I can't wait to get out there. Hope it warms up a bit first though.

You could be right on the blush although BoteCote is suppose to be non-blushing. I didn't wash off with water so maybe that's it. Someday I'll do some tests and check this out. Thanks.

[indiedog]

Very very nice work HB. :wings: Bugger about the paint process and I know what you mean about "knowing" it's not perfect, I have that problem too. :costumed-smiley-007 But after all that it certainly looks close to being done.

I'd be interested to hear what your costs have been to date, and what you think they'd be if you only painted it once. :D

Cheers, Indie.

[indiedog]

bump!

[Heifer Boy]

Remember Me?

Well it's been over 2 months since I last posted but I didn't fall off the edge of the planet or go bush and never come back. I just got very sidetracked with life and all work on the camper ground to halt for a while.

I got caught up having to unfortunately move house which is always a pain but especially so when you are part way through a project like this. I ended up with a lot of trips to Sydney nearly every week and in the middle of it all I had to train and compete in a 100km MTB race with only a months notice!! It seems like minor stuff but it sucked all the momentum out of the camper build which just got packed away and moved.

Thanks to those who wondered where I was. I have finally been getting back into it all and there are updates to follow. Nearly finished too...

[Heifer Boy]

Firstly, An Apology and a Belated Thank-you

Way, way back at the end of May I posted about doing my electric system and I included a photo of my Baintech fuse block. I soon got a pm from a fellow forumite who commented how crappy my labels were (I'm paraphrasing here LOL) and how it let down the rest of my build. He also said he could do better as he was a Industrial Engraver so a few emails later and he had sent me a few strips of black-on-white, metal, self-adhesive labels to fit my fuse block and also label the all switches I had installed.

My intention was to finish the camper very soon after and was going to post before and after photos and a thank-you. As you are all aware, that time frame has blown out somewhat.

So, a huge apology and many, many belated thank-yous to Aaron (King Triton on http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum) for his great labels and for helping make my build look so much more professional. The labels are really cool and look great so if you need quality labelling then be sure to get a hold of King Triton here http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=16586.
Check out the difference below!! Thanks Aaron.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110894.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1110895.jpg

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Twenty Four – Assembly Starts

The last thing I got to do before moving house was get the doors on the camper so they weren't something else to move.

The first thing was to get the camper up on the trolley. From this point onwards I was going to be permanently adding weight and it wasn't going to be easy to move.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120001.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120002.jpg

Then I fitted all the tool box compression locks and the hinges for the last time. Everything had been pre-fitted so it was a pretty straight forward process.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120006.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120007.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120008.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120010.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120011.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120012.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120013.jpg

And Tada!! All done!!

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Twenty Five – Main Door Support

I just looked at the dates on the photos and between the last photo posted and the next one is a gap of a month exactly. And look at the first thing I did!! I tried fixing up a previous problem from a month ago and had a go at cutting my thumb off with a panel saw instead. Luckily my favourite first aid nurse wrapped me up once she got over the sight of blood!!!. In the end it wasn't very deep and healed up pretty fast. Nasty.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120040.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120043.jpg

So made up a bracket to mount to the bottom of the main door to take the pressure off the hinges when closed. It will support the leading edge which should help a lot when thrashing around offroad. It's just a piece of alloy angle with some UHMWPE strips screwed to the bottom. It works well.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120056.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120057.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120059.jpg

This was the first proper thing I made in my new garage. It's tiny and packed full of stuff compared to the great workshop I had at the last house. This is part of the reason it took me so long getting back into the build. Oh well. I'll cope.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120055.jpg

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Twenty Six – The Tent Goes On At Last!!!

Time to put the tent on permanently before adding any more stuff to the camper. In order to do so I had to put the camper on the back of the truck first. I had a mate over to help out and of course it started raining again but we got into it anyway and soon it was on. Then we lifted the tent on and carefully moved it around without sliding it around until all the bolts lined up. I needed to get to the zip around the bottom of the cover without jambing my arm against the back window so this couldn't be done in the garage. Then I put a rubber O-ring on each bolt to seal the hole and cranked them down for the last time. Excellent.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120148.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120149.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120150.jpg

I think it's looking pretty good and the top of tent sits level with the roof rack which is what I wanted. I'm a happy chap!!! I did set the tent up to take a look but forgot to take a photo. Next time...

[Heifer Boy]

Stage Twenty Seven – Drawer Slides and Storage!!

Now it's time to finish off the interior details.

I had the basics of the two drawer slides sorted out ages ago. I partially build them too so now it was time to finish them off.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120060.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120061.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120218.jpg

The LH drawer slide has a removable kitchen box with a large fixed storage box behind that. I also made a handle to pull it out with. The kitchen box is held in place by small 'legs' that go into holes in the drawer slide and held down with SS over-centre catches. It's not finished yet so more on the plans and ideas for that later.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120224.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120225.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120226.jpg

The RH drawer will have the fridge on it with a jerry can holder behind it for water. Behind this is another storage box. This will be moved infrequently because the fridge is on its own slide.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120222.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120220.jpg

These are all just epoxied together the same as the camper and then varnished. I also made a small drop-down table to hang off the main door at the same time. There is a small lip on the back of each drawer floor that has a piece of foam tape attached to soften the close and this lip slips under a piece of alloy angle bolted to the back wall of the camper to keep the back down of the slide when crashing about offroad. Spring bolts hold the front of the slides in place. Both drawers slide on UHMWPE runners I used on my previous build. Easy.

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120062.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120216.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120229.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120230.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120231.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120232.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120233.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120234.jpg

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g423/Heifer-Boy/Camper%20Build%20Ver%202/P1120237.jpg

That'll do it for now but more to come soon!!

[Jnich77]

Awesome man, looks really nice and well built!!!

[indiedog]

Good to see you back HB. Looking great. :sombrero:

[Wavebreaker]

Looks Good HB. Where did you source your door hardware the draw catches?

[Heifer Boy]

Thanks for the comments guys. It's good to be back into again.

@wavebreaker

I got the catches and most of my other hardware from Ovesco http://www.ovesco.com.au/ . I don't know if they send overseas though. I know of McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/# in the US which does similar stuff as I've seen lots of references to it on various forums.

The onlty other way to get SS stuff is at marine suppliers and adding 'marine' to a product is like adding 'wedding' to a dress. Way too expensive.

[indiedog]

Hey HB, you got any updates on how your camper is going now you've been using it? (I hope you've been using it!) You making that teardrop yet??

[vhram]

Great looking build .

[Heifer Boy]

Hey HB, you got any updates on how your camper is going now you've been using it? (I hope you've been using it!) You making that teardrop yet??

Thanks for asking indie.

It has been a while and every so often I think to myself I really should finish off the build thread. But life got in the way (as it so often does) and we had a few disruptions to the normal state of play. First the house we were renting got repossessed by the bank and we eventually got booted out. That meant I lost the nice big double garage I was working in and the next place was a lot smaller with a single garage full of stuff. I managed to get the camper campable though and we got away for a weekend to the Yarboro/Pigeon House Mtn area. Nice shake down run and everything worked well.

98705

98706

Then we went and bought the house we had been previously been booted out right before Xmas and have been busy renovating it enough to be comfortable over a cold South Coast winter ever since. I've painted every surface except for the floor, renovated the kitchen, put up blinds, installed new lighting and have had a supporting wall removed in the lounge room so a nice wood burning combustion heater can be installed. That goes in the end of next week and then I can finally relax for a bit. I did get my nice big garage/workshop back though so I want to build myself some proper workbenches and storage and then I'll be ready to get into that teardrop... once the finances have recovered a bit.

I'll make sure I do a proper write up of the final days of the build soon. As always, there's things I would change and things unfinished but it works really well overall and I'm happy with it.

We did manage one other week away camping just before Easter. We went down to Bendethera which was great but it went from a nice fun drive to an 8 hour recovery including 4 hours of winching and ended with the camper falling over, ripping off the legs I had just made for it tearing holes in all four corners and crashing to the ground... but that's a story to be told another day :Wow1: Needless to say there is some more work to be done.

How was your trip?

[stomperxj]

Loved watching your build HB. Congrats on the house!

[indiedog]

HB, that setup looks great on the car. Keen to hear the story of the collapse, sounds like a bummer. The trip to Tassie was brilliant, totally recommended. We did end up having a small fire in the camper on the way back so had a couple of nights in motels, but strangely it will work out in our favour. So we both have tales of disaster it seems.