Pile of parts for my DIY trailer

[pixeldzn]

Decided to build rather than buy due to the fact that I would like a utility trailer that can go offroad rather than a full blown expedition trailer.

Due to cost concerns, I am going to go with a leaf sprung axle for the time being, but I am considering welding shock tabs to it.

60" ABC Trailers Axle
285/75-16 (33") Nitto Terra Grapplers
Cragar 16" Soft 8s
Swiveling tongue wheel
Lock n' Roll setup (not pictured)

Now I need to buy all the necessary steel and get welding.

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_axle.jpg

[Willman]

Welcome the ExPo!!!

Very nice!!!!:clapsmile

Are you going to install elec. brakes on your trailer?

Keep us posted on your build and would to see your design!!!

:chowtime:

[pixeldzn]

Here's my plans:

No plans for brakes at the moment, but the axle does have the bracketry for them should I choose to add them later.

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/TRAILER.jpg

[RunninRubicon]

I like you schematic. I purchased a CJ-7 4-leaf suspension w/shackles, shock mounts, front and rear frame mounts and U-bolts from 4WD.com for $440. They have a heavier 6-leaf pack as well. (same price). This all came in a kit and made for SOA or SUA arrangement easy to install. The springs are 60" long. One foot shorter then my trailer's length. I added Monroe air-shocks with a 10" travel, added rubber dampeners to stop any possible bottoming out action and got a soft supple movement. My original leafs were the stock 30" style and though rated for 2000lbs, they were very stiff and rough riding. Short of an Adventure Trailer's air-bag A-frame independant suspesion for three times the money, I think you'll like your outcome.
Your deminsions show a tongue 70 inches in length. I use 60" though yours may ultimately pull easier. I find that a 60" tracks close to my rear wheels through most tight trails and between trees. Also backs up very easily.
Best of luck as it looks very promising.

[Willman]

Here's my plans:

No plans for brakes at the moment, but the axle does have the bracketry for them should I choose to add them later.

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/TRAILER.jpg


Nice!!!!



:Mechanic:

[Rezarf <><]

I am in the process of doing the same thing.

I am excited to see your results and the progress on the way!

Drew

[Renrag]

Here's my plans:

No plans for brakes at the moment, but the axle does have the bracketry for them should I choose to add them later.

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/TRAILER.jpg

New here. Been lurking a bit lately. I built this trailer over the winter
http://jeepshots.com/users/mike/trailer/2007_0312_095702(1).JPG
I'm posting up now because I see you are building one to similar proportions. I ended up adding two jerry cans to the front just to get it to trail well. Even after the axle allignment it wouild weave back and forth for lack of tounge weight. I'd suggest figureing out how to build more tounge weight into it. Move the box forward or make it longer in the front.

mikE(unsolicited advice it worth what you pay for it)

[pixeldzn]

New here. Been lurking a bit lately. I built this trailer over the winter
http://jeepshots.com/users/mike/trailer/2007_0312_095702(1).JPG
I'm posting up now because I see you are building one to similar proportions. I ended up adding two jerry cans to the front just to get it to trail well. Even after the axle allignment it wouild weave back and forth for lack of tounge weight. I'd suggest figureing out how to build more tounge weight into it. Move the box forward or make it longer in the front.

mikE(unsolicited advice it worth what you pay for it)

Where'd you get the box you used for it? That's what I originally wanted but couldn't really find anything like that.

As for the tongue weight, I plan to put a box of some kind on the tongue over the expanded mesh, and when not full of gear I will put something like a bag of sand in it.

[Renrag]

Where'd you get the box you used for it? That's what I originally wanted but couldn't really find anything like that.

As for the tongue weight, I plan to put a box of some kind on the tongue over the expanded mesh, and when not full of gear I will put something like a bag of sand in it.


Home built. I spent way too much time on it. All started from flat sheet. I built a die to bend the corners then went from there.

mikE(helps that I have a 6' brake)

[Grim Reaper]

Few things I would look at and change:

Very high loads on the front crossmember with the current design. The rotational forces need to be moved to the main side rails. By tying into the main rails you will take that rotational load off the front crossmember.

Looks like over kill on the floor cross members. Even if you are using 1.5x1.5 angle iron for the floor support you could stand to loose 2 of those cross members. Unless you load the thing full of car batteries you will never have enough load to need that many cross members in the 46 inch length.

[Rezarf <><]

Agreed, but with proper gussetting, you would be fine to run the draw bars of the front corners... AT does it IIRC?

Can't wait to see this come along.

Drew

[Rezarf <><]

New here. Been lurking a bit lately. I built this trailer over the winter
http://jeepshots.com/users/mike/trailer/2007_0312_095702(1).JPG
I'm posting up now because I see you are building one to similar proportions. I ended up adding two jerry cans to the front just to get it to trail well. Even after the axle allignment it wouild weave back and forth for lack of tounge weight. I'd suggest figureing out how to build more tounge weight into it. Move the box forward or make it longer in the front.

mikE(unsolicited advice it worth what you pay for it)

Very Cool Trailer mikE!

I would love to see some shots of that thing, how about starting a new thread?

[Signcutter21]

HaHa Don, I know your secret. Looks cool man. Can't wait to see it someday or next april, which ever comes first.

mike

[pixeldzn]

Here are some updated pics of the parts pile:

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_parts_3.jpg

Close-up of the lock and roll hitch setup:

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_parts_2.jpg

[Willman]

Here are some updated pics of the parts pile:

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_parts_3.jpg

Close-up of the lock and roll hitch setup:

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_parts_2.jpg

Looking good!...I also just ordered my Lock n' roll hitch as well!!!....

When is this nice pile going to get all welded up and installed??

:Mechanic:

[pixeldzn]

Looking good!...I also just ordered my Lock n' roll hitch as well!!!....

When is this nice pile going to get all welded up and installed??

:Mechanic:

Hopefully getting started next week after work one night.

[pixeldzn]

Got a rolling chassis complete last night:

http://64.108.234.132/rt/don/trailer_rolling.jpg

[OS-Aussie]

Few things I would look at and change:

Very high loads on the front crossmember with the current design. The rotational forces need to be moved to the main side rails. By tying into the main rails you will take that rotational load off the front crossmember.

Looks like over kill on the floor cross members. Even if you are using 1.5x1.5 angle iron for the floor support you could stand to loose 2 of those cross members. Unless you load the thing full of car batteries you will never have enough load to need that many cross members in the 46 inch length.


I think Grim-Reaper is on the money, I have visions of you and the trailer parting ways on some rough road after the draw bar shears off.

[Rezarf <><]

Everything looks nice!

I think with a few gussets you will be just fine. What are the dimensions of your box?

Keep the pics coming.

[pixeldzn]

I think Grim-Reaper is on the money, I have visions of you and the trailer parting ways on some rough road after the draw bar shears off.

Agreed. There is going to be some gusseting done next time we get to welding on it. Going to triangulate the tongue to the draw bar and the draw bar to the side rails. that will get at least 8 more welds holding the beast together.

[Willman]

Agreed. There is going to be some gusseting done next time we get to welding on it. Going to triangulate the tongue to the draw bar and the draw bar to the side rails. that will get at least 8 more welds holding the beast together.

Sounds like a good plan!

Keep the photos coming.

:)

[pixeldzn]

we've worked on the trailer a couple more times lately. It's hard to take good pictures becuase my buddy's garage isn't well lit.

We added some bracing to the tongue that goes underneath and to the next interior cross bar, cut the expanded metal for the tongue shelf and began welding up the frame for the box.

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_build.gif

[pixeldzn]

Again, there have been a few sessions in between pics.

Some finish welding, cutting and grinding has been done, and the frame for the box is almost complete. The tailgate comes next.

It's getting closer, for sure!

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailerwbox1.jpg

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailerwbox2.jpg

[Joanne]

Hey Pixel!

I'm really enjoying seeing the pictures of your trailer build. I like the home-built stuff because it's so personal. It's people's ideas coming to life. I do have one dumb question though. Why the big tires on the trailer? I've noticed them on most of the expedition trailers. Is it because they match the tow vehicle tire size so they could be used in an emergency? Is it "cool factor"? I'm just curious.

Keep posting the pictures! It's a lot of fun to see them. Maybe someday I'll be able to see it in 3D.

Joanne



Decided to build rather than buy due to the fact that I would like a utility trailer that can go offroad rather than a full blown expedition trailer.

Due to cost concerns, I am going to go with a leaf sprung axle for the time being, but I am considering welding shock tabs to it.

60" ABC Trailers Axle
285/75-16 (33") Nitto Terra Grapplers
Cragar 16" Soft 8s
Swiveling tongue wheel
Lock n' Roll setup (not pictured)

Now I need to buy all the necessary steel and get welding.

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_axle.jpg

[Tucson T4R]

The larger tires give you more ground clearance. That’s really important if you have a solid axle across the trailer. Maybe a little less so if you have independent suspension. I like knowing my trailer has at least the same ground clearance as the truck pulling it. An added plus is if the wheels and tires are interchangeable with your tow rig.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m125/bgarland40/07%20Richmond%20Basin/RichmondBasin07118.jpg

[Tucson T4R]

BTW, I didn't want to take away from the primary subject of this thread. The trailer you are building from scratch is sweet! Nice design and I'm looking forward to watching this come together. Nice job!:bowdown:

[pixeldzn]

I do have one dumb question though. Why the big tires on the trailer? I've noticed them on most of the expedition trailers. Is it because they match the tow vehicle tire size so they could be used in an emergency? Is it "cool factor"? I'm just curious.

You are exactly correct.

#1 it is to share spares with my Rubicon

#2 It is for ground clearance should I choose to tow it over a trail at some point.

#3 It looks cool

:costumed-smiley-007:

[RunninRubicon]

#4 The wide contact patch inables your trailer to traverse that which your tow vehicle just traversed. Those narrow tires you see on Coleman pop-ups make great discs or plows thru sandy river bottoms and most any soft terrain. More then any other reason and that of simple clearance under the axle to match that of your towing vehicle are the rational for use of these tires.

[Section 8]

Great plan and photos. I am planning something along those lines, but in order to order an axle, I need to estimate the weight. Of course to estimate the weight, you need to know how much steel... blah blah blah. Anyway, since I don't know what I am doing :rolleyes: but know what I want, would you mind sharing what your tube sizes/wall thickness were for your basic frame, and your intended empty weight / loaded weight?

Thanks alot.

:camping:

[pixeldzn]

I used 1/16 wall tubing all around - 2" square for the frame, 1" square for the box, 2x4 for the bumper.

My axle is a 3500 lb axle with 3500 lb springs. I ordered the axle before anything else, actually.

I have no idea what the weight is at this point. Springs are cheap enuf that I can get different ones down the road if it's too rigid or sags.

[Section 8]

Thanks alot. That goes along way toward estimating things. I am going to try a Torflex axle, but you bring up a good point about springs, maybe that would be a better approach....

Thanks

:camping:

[mixedgasdiver]

I've been watching your build and am very interested. I'm just curious, any estimate on the cost of the trailer it's self not including camping type accessories?

Thanks,

Rob

[pixeldzn]

I'd say I'm at around $1200-$1400, including new tires and rims, lighting, all the steel, and misc trips to Home Depot and Ace Hardware.

I haven't been real diligent about tracking the receipts. (Not sure I wanna know exactly how much it cost!!), but I do know that the major items add up to around $1000.

BTW, it's nearly complete. All welding is done, needs some finish grinding and sanding. Also needs a skin and a floor for the box. The wiring is done, but just good enuf to tow it home from my buddy's house - needs to be fished inside the tubing and generally cleaned up. Also need to do things like make cables for the tailgate, paint, etc.

Will post new pics tomorrow.

[Section 8]

I'd be really interested to know how you did the tailgate hinges.

Right now I am thinking of using Weld-on Hinges (thats the actual trade name): [URL="http://www.guden.com/display-wh3.asp[/URL]

But I don't think I am strong enough with the force to get them aligned straight, and stay straight while I weld them so the tailgat opens smoothly. I see a tailgate that I can't open, but empties my trailer on the highway.
:oops:

Thanks.

:REOutCampFire03:

[pixeldzn]

I just used grade 8 bolts with nylon washers inbetween the box and the gate.

I'll make sure ther's a detailed pic of it when i post next.

[pixeldzn]

The trailer is nearly complete! It only needs it's cedar decking floor installed.

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_painted_1.jpg

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_painted_2.jpg

[Jered007]

Congratulations, I want one! :drool: Would probably cost less than adding the rear and roof racks that I've been eyeing. (gotta love the cargo room in jeeps)

[pixeldzn]

Some more pics, with the trailer in tow behind the Jeep ...

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_tow_front.jpg

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_tow_side.jpg

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_tow_rear.jpg


And a close up of the Lock-N-Roll Articulating Hitch setup ...

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_coupler.jpg

[pixeldzn]

Got the wood floor cut, routed, and drilled today. I used 1x6 cedar decking board. I had to route out a relief for the tailgate so it could swing without hitting the floor, and also route out the reliefs for the tiedowns in each corner. Now I have to pull the boards back out, sand them, and apply a few coats of spar varnish.

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_floor_wood.jpg

[pixeldzn]

Added some decals ...

http://www.pixeldecals.com/imghost/trailer_rubicart_decal.jpg

[CodyLX450]

No fenders?

Ive seen a lot of broken back windows from rocks thrown up from the trailer...and altho you don't have a glass back window, you might not like the rock dings and paint chips.

Any fender plans?

Looks pretty good!

[pixeldzn]

Yep, I plan on fenders and a lid before I tow it any distance. I have some prefab fenders, but they don't quite fir right with the 33's, so I am going to get some diamondplate bent to the right size instead.