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John E
08-27-2011, 09:23 PM
now what?

Picking it up on Monday, needs very little in the way of obvious repairs.

Going to have a complete fluid change done, transfer and differentials serviced and the engine steam cleaned.

Tiny bit of rust around the windshield frame on the upper front fenders and the hood is in pretty rough shape paintwise, thinking I'll have the rust taken care of and the hood repainted in black rather than try to match the old paint.

I need to get a new drivers side window switch, other than that, it just needs some cleaning up although I'm sure I'll find more stuff to fix as I get into it.

fowldarr
08-27-2011, 10:34 PM
well first thing to do is to post pictures.

esh
08-28-2011, 12:49 AM
Rodney flush for the trans- search it out on ih8mud

cruiseroutfit
08-28-2011, 07:23 PM
Congrats!

John E
09-06-2011, 05:14 AM
no pics as of yet, the FJ is at a local repair shop. It wouldn't pass the smog test that is required to get it registered. Long, boring account of what transpired in the Fireside Chat forum.

On another note, is there an approved method or procedure to fix the rust under the windshield trim issue? I'm guessing that it simply involves having the glass removed and the metal either treated or replaced somehow.

Also noticed that the front end tends to wander a bit, thinking it's a tie rod issue, does that make sense?

The dash is in great shape, not a crack in it but man oh man does it have a lot of rattles and such, will have to fix it as I'm also planning on doing some soundproofing and the dash noise will just seem worse once I kill some of the outside noise.

John E
09-09-2011, 04:30 AM
The FJ62 has failed me...well technically it's only failed the CA smog test but I'm taking it personally.

Had it tested a total of 3 times now, it's gotten closer each time but still hasn't made it.

Turns out it's going to need more work than was immediately apparent when I bought it.

The previous owner(s) seem to have found an absolute idiot to "fix" the exhaust system, they managed to break or bend all but one of the stock exhaust pipe hangers, they ruined both of the O2 sensors by using the wrong type and then welding them in place instead of using the threaded bungs that they should have used and in one case so badly installing a piece of pipe that it caused the wires leading from the sensor to rub against the underside of the frame and breaking them.

3 hours and $450 later at my new favorite muffler shop I now have working O2 sensors, one still needs to be re-installed but I'm leaving it alone for now, a lot of new exhaust pipe, hangers that actually hold the pipe where it's supposed to be, a tailpipe that isn't bouncing against the frame and no more leaks. Oh, and a new catalytic convertor to replace the 11 year old one that was hanging on in relatively quiet desperation.

Unfortunately, even with a technician who seemed to really want it to pass, it failed the smog test, twice in fact. The NO levels are too high at the 25 mph level of the test. The new "cat" got the HC and CO2 levels where they need to be but not the NO. Apparently the problem may be a fouled EGR valve.

Going to try and either clean it out or have it cleaned out tomorrow and then try another test. On a somewhat brighter side, the seller has agreed to pay me back $400 towards the repairs after I threatened to sue him in small claims court for the entire purchase price. I'm going to keep after it, I could spend what I paid for the thing over again and still have less in it than most people put into a running vehicle and in the end, I'll have a nice FJ62.

And so it goes...

redthies
09-11-2011, 03:12 PM
Keep the faith John, it'll be worth it in the end!:sombrero:

John E
09-12-2011, 05:54 AM
faith in the mechanical world is what keeps us all going, at least here on the Portal.

I'm constantly reminded of Phaedrus in "Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance" and his writing about actual mechanical issues, which contrary to the disclaimers made by the author is a very practical repair guide. So long as we remember that it's us that's also being repaired. All mechanical things can be repaired, some how, some way with enough knowledge and patience and applications of logic, it will be fixed.

Today went well, my son spent the weekend with us and I got him to help me with some repairs on the Cruiser. We tackled some missing bushings in the shift lever, an oil and filter change, some rust neutrilization, and some other minor stuff. The shift lever is almost like new, I saw a post on "Ih8Mud" about replacing the stock bushings with some bronze ones, took some minor metal work and making my small drill press into a poorman's vertical mill but in the end it all came together. It shifts like it oughta now.

The oil and filter change was unremarkable other than me being stymied by the idea of a filter being mounted upside down being a good idea. What were those engineers at Toyoda thinking? I drained as much oil out as I could, took the filler cap off to help with any sort of vacuum effect and still managed to spill a couple of ozs of oil on the Cruiser. Luckily we put down some packaging material to act as a shield of sorts so none of it actually hit the concrete, just the engine and various frame parts....sigh...

We also started de-chroming the thing, the "snake blinder" chrome strips were hiding some rust on the rocker panels so they came off to be eventually replaced with a bedliner paint job. I treated and sanded the rust as best I could but will need to do something to patch a few very small holes that made it all the way thru. The chrome trim on the rain gutters is also gone now and eventually the trim around the windows will be as well.

Tomorrow I get an EGR gasket and the EGR valve will be removed for cleaning, hoping that it will then pass the smog test and also fix an annoying hesitation while accelerating that's cropped up. If not, it's off to a recommended shop out in the San Fernando Valley for some more paid work.

Oh wait, there's a broken front spring to be dealt with too.

So it goes...

redthies
09-12-2011, 02:06 PM
Maybe a remote mount oil filter to ease future changes? The filter on our 01 Taco had me thinking that the Toyota engineers must have said "good luck with this one, baka gaijin!":sombrero:

pskhaat
09-12-2011, 03:15 PM
stymied by the idea of a filter being mounted upside down being a good idea. What were those engineers at Toyoda thinking?

Gotta just let her sit for a few hours or overnight to let all the oil drain out. The benefit of a filter like that is that you can add very large capacity filters as well as I've found to be LESS messy.

As per NOx. Is the truck having any lean conditions? Have you tried getting it tested in cooler weather/location? Some Cruisers can reduce NOx with high-test fuel and some octane booster to help retard the burn.

John E
09-13-2011, 01:16 AM
in my driveway. Got the new EGR valve gasket from the new O'Reilly's parts store that just opened up nearby, considering I ordered it on a Sunday I'd say that's pretty good service.

Got the valve assembly off, lots of fun detaching the metal accordion type tube that runs into the base of it, PB Blaster, some other Liquid Wrench type stuff, and some tapping with a small hammer and a 12" Crescent wrench forced it to yield.

The valve assembly was filthy, the part that actually goes into the manifold was pretty much completely clogged with carbon. I blew air thru it, wiped it down, scraped and scratched as much out as I could. While I had it all apart I cleaned up the various bolts and brackets on the wire wheel attachment, am I the only person who bothers doing that sort of stuff? I cleaned off the bolt heads and got the rust off the bracket that holds the tube in place, it may not work but by god it looks a helluva lot better!

New gasket, a little bit of high temp sealant, some anti-seize on all the threads and it all went back together like clockwork. Started it up, the idle seems a lot smoother but the hesitation upon acceleration is still there. Hopefully I got it clean enough to pass the smog test. I'm thinking a can of Seafoam run thru the manifold, some premium gas and some octane booster or a can of that "guaranteed to pass" stuff, at this point I don't have a lot to lose.

So it goes...

cruiseroutfit
09-13-2011, 02:11 AM
Sounds like your on the right track with the emissions, bummer its been such a PITA.

As for the loose front end. You really need to get the tires off the ground and see what you find. Start by grabbing the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock, shake vigorously and check for play. Any play is too much, wheel bearings and or knuckle bearings need to be serviced. Next shake the wheel back and forth, watch the tie rod ends and see if they have any movement, again any play is too much and your tie rod ends need to be replaced. All straightforward work and parts are as easy as a phone call to a good Cruiser parts supplier :D

RMP&O
09-13-2011, 03:37 AM
While I had it all apart I cleaned up the various bolts and brackets on the wire wheel attachment, am I the only person who bothers doing that sort of stuff?

No sir, you are not!

Most people do not do this stuff though, usually because of time or not caring. A lot of people pay to have everything done on their truck too. Hobbiest and enthusiest, now that is a different story.

I see a super nice truck for sale and it is all dirty and ratty and I ask myself WTH, why!? Or I see a truck kind of like mine where somebody tossed a lot of money at it in the past and put really nice stuff on the truck. Then they half arsed a lot of things and you find dodgy work. It is like why would you spend a pile of money on a truck only to not deal with the most simple of things, correctly.

I hope you are not getting discouraged with the new Cruiser. I know how it feels to think you bought something only to find out you really bought something else! It sucks, it is not a good feeling. But you bought an old truck. For a lot of people with Cruisers or any old truck a big part of owning the old truck is so you can work on it. You do not need much for fancy computers or expensive tools to work on this truck. Also for myself, I like making something better, improving it or upgrading it and then enjoying it! I am afraid of no mods and will consider anything in terms of mods if it fits my uses and my truck. On top of all this you end up knowing the truck inside and out, top and bottom. That is really nice because when something goes wrong and you are say 50 miles out in the middle of nowhere. Well, you quickly know what the problem may be and also can usually come up with solutions to solve the problem. If you pay somebody to do everything on your truck when this happens you may be standing there awhile scratching your head. Also a lot of owning an old car is about working on it, enjoying doing the work and also enjoying making it better, that is what makes an enthusiest! Many new vehciles come with "limp" mode so when it breaks in the middle of nowhere you can get out. Old cars it was about not breaking down and if it did happen being able to service it in the field.

Any ways, charge ahead man, get er' done! Fix it right the first time and you won't be messing with it for many years to come. ;)

redthies
09-13-2011, 04:42 AM
parts are as easy as a phone call to a good Cruiser parts supplier :D

You wouldn't happen to know one would you Kurt??:ylsmoke:

cruiseroutfit
09-13-2011, 05:56 AM
You wouldn't happen to know one would you Kurt??:ylsmoke:

I could drum up a name or two :D

John E
09-15-2011, 04:12 AM
The FJ is now at a local shop where better mechanics than I will try to figure out the annoying hesitation or skip in acceleration and more importantly, get it to pass the smog test. Hopefully they're also gonna find me a used RH front spring too, seems that the original one has at least 2 broken leaves. Shop is K&H Imports out in Canoga Park, CA. Came very highly recommended by several people on IH8MUD.com.

I will be in touch Kurt, I've already been perusing your website, did so before I ever bought the FJ in fact. The OME Dakar set up is calling me, I'm holding off until I figure out how much lift I really want. Do you have a layaway program...? ;^)

Getting back to the topic of cleaning up fasteners and such, while taking the front valance off I managed to break off 6 of the bolts holding it in place. there were 3 missing or already broken off too. With a drill, lots of PB blaster, and some metric taps and broken bolt removers I was able to get all but one of the bolts removed and I ran a tap thru the holes to clean up the threads. Had to bump one of them up in thread size as it was not only rusted, it was stripped. There's one left to do but I fear it will need a 90 degree drill to get at it so it'll have to wait until I get it back from the shop.

Now after I paint the valance with bedliner and put it back on I'll very likely never take it off again, so why did I go and buy all new stainless steel machine bolts, washers and lock washers? Because once I know that I screwed something up it gnaws at me until I make it right. I can't help myself. On the plus side, if I ever do need to take that thing off again, it'll come off like a hot knife thru butter.

On a related note, I decided to dechrome the FJ, took the strips off the rain gutters, pulled the grille and turn signal surrounds and painted them flat black, with some new stainless hardware and some plastic polish on the lenses, they look pretty damned good for being 23 years old. I also took the "snake blinders" off and will be patching the leftover mounting holes prior to the bedliner paint job.

Gonna ride the DR to the Horizons Unlimited get together in Cambria so I decided to bring the FJ to Hollister next month if it's road worthy.

burnoil
09-15-2011, 04:50 AM
Check check check your 800 miles of vacuum tubing and, really, you should just replace it all with silicone tubing. It is cheap to do so. Any vacuum leaks can and will mess with the EGR system. Also, get the FSM and follow the tests for checking the EGR system which should also include the smog/air pump. Be methodical and do one "fix" at a time. Lots of help for this over on ih8mud, too. If K&H has it then they will get you in shape.

John E
09-15-2011, 04:56 AM
the rolling spaghetti monster issue has been addressed. 30 feet of 3mm silicone tubing and another 10 feet of 6mm from McMaster-Carr arrived on Monday, been putting it on one piece at a time since then. Forgot to add that to my list o'repairs.

I think I've got most of it done, probably missed a few feet but I'll get that done when I get it back.

IH8MUD and it's readers have been a great source of information already, I just posted a want ad there for some OEM springs to tide me over until I get something better from Kurt.

Thanks.

Caoboy
09-15-2011, 05:32 AM
Have you changed your plugs? Sounds like misfiring would be the cause for hesitation. Perhaps the timing is a bit off, or the bad O2 sensors fouled the plugs.

Patman
09-15-2011, 05:37 AM
OEM springs to tide me over until I get something better from Kurt.

Thanks.

Glad to hear its getting worked out.

I've got a set of stockers off my 60 in the side yard, if you can figure out how to get them to you, they're yours.

John E
09-15-2011, 05:45 AM
were one of the first things I swapped out last week before I took it for the first smog test. OEM plugs from a local Toyota Dealer. Next set will be mail/online ordered I think.

Don't have a timing light but I'm guessing that the guys at the shop will find out what's wrong with it, Richard didn't seem too worried this afternoon when I dropped it off.

Patman, that's a great offer, let me see what I can do. I'll be in Hollister for the Expo Rally Thingy but I think I'll need the springs before then, or I could host a "trailside spring replacement" seminar up there...;^)

Whatever happens, I appreciate the offer.

John E
09-19-2011, 06:32 PM
the FJ62 has passed the smog test, the hesitation/miss on acceleration is fixed, just waiting for a new/used front spring to be installed and then I get to pick it up.

Apparently there were some vacuum issues with the EGR system, those have been repaired and it got a valve adjustment and a new valve cover gasket. I already cleaned up the EGR valve myself and replaced the gasket along with about a thousand feet of vacuum tubing from McMaster-Carr. Richard at K&H imports did the rest of the work.

The spring was something I knew was bad, thought about waiting and getting the whole suspension system upgraded but I'm not sure which direction I want to go quite yet and I'd like to be able to safely drive it until I figure that out. The RH front spring had a couple of broken leaves on it and I didn't want to find out what happens when it totally breaks while driving.

I'm looking at the OME "Dakar" set up as sold by Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters but can't decide between the standard or the heavy duty setup.

Any thoughts?

I will be using the FJ as both a work vehicle as well as a camping vehicle, carrying a couple hundred pounds of crap, er, I mean essential equipment mostly in the back cargo area. No roof rack as of now, stock wheels and tires on it, will be adding some heavier bumpers at some point most likely with a spare tire swing out and/or a fuel can rack on the back and a winch on the front. I will not be doing any rock crawling whatsoever.

Picking it up tomorrow, really looking forward to it.

huntsonora
09-19-2011, 09:54 PM
Picking it up tomorrow, really looking forward to it.

Congratulations!

cruiseroutfit
09-21-2011, 04:11 AM
the FJ62 has passed the smog test, the hesitation/miss on acceleration is fixed, just waiting for a new/used front spring to be installed and then I get to pick it up.

Congrats :cool:


I'm looking at the OME "Dakar" set up as sold by Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters but can't decide between the standard or the heavy duty setup.

Any thoughts?

Lots of thoughts :D

Give us a ring when you get a minute and we can chat about the specifics. We've literally sold hundreds of 60 Series suspension kits so I'm confident we can chat about your current and future plans and get you a kit that will best fit your needs.

John E
09-21-2011, 04:55 AM
Kurt, was planning on doing just that. Are you coming to the Rally up in Hollister next month by any chance?

In the meantime, I have a legal vehicle, the FJ passed it's last smog test and the title transfer and registration process was completed at my local AAA office.

It runs way better than it did but there's still an annoying, intermittent hesitation or skip on acceleration that needs to be fixed.

It got a valve adjustment and some work done on the EGR system at K&H Imports, no complaints about that but I think it's gonna have to go back tomorrow for some further testing/repairs.

I picked up a stainless steel brake line kit from SOR today as well as a new valve cover gasket. SOR is an amazing place, looks like a junkyard on the outside, but once you get inside the place, holy cow, it really is a Land Cruiser museum. Very nice guy named Mario helped me out, will be spending more there I'm sure as they're somewhat local to me.

Next up after the hesitation problem is solved, flush out the radiator and install the proper thermostat, replace the front brake pads and lines, flush the brake fluid, replace oil pan and transmission pan gaskets and flush and refill the trans. Will be fixing the last broken bolt on the valance too and reinstalling the blacked out grille and headlight surrounds too. Hope to be doing most of that this weekend with some help from my newly driving son, I know he's hoping that he'll get the Cruiser one day so he's been very willing to come over and help out so far...;^)

Will be looking for new/used bumpers and a decent roof rack soon...along with whatever sort of lift kit I come up with Kurt's help.

So it goes...:)

John E
09-23-2011, 08:40 PM
it goes.

More hardware replacement done. I'm upgrading as many fasteners as I find that are rusted or bunged up with new stainless steel bits.

Finished re-tapping all of the hidden threads that hold the valance in place under the grille, yikes. Not a lot of fun but all of the formerly rusted, corroded bolts have been replaced and the threads are now cleaned out and not cross threaded.

Grille and headlight surrounds are now de-chromed and painted black. Valance will get a coat of bedliner when I do the rest of the body work.

Finished installing all new silicone vacuum tubing from McMaster-Carr, looks pretty cool.

Removed, cleaned, and replaced all of the bolts holding the radiator support in place under the hood, not needed but man were they rusty, amazingly I didn't break off a single bolt this time.

Tomorrow it's new stainless front brake lines and new brake pads along with a transmission filter clean, new gasket and fluid change. Might try and do a radiator flush and refill too.

Should have a pretty nice FJ in a year or so...;^)

ScottyDog
09-23-2011, 10:52 PM
The Dakar Suspension is good.. I went with MAF 4" on my son's 62 (which included the SR kit) but to be honest, I don't think its even needed on the 60/62.

At 4" we ran into issues with severe bump steer and wobble. Swapped out new TRE and 4* shims... and it helped a little bit, but still had a slight wobble.

I'd stick with 2.5 - 3.5 lift without the SR kit.

I ended looking everywhere for a driver side master control switch for the 62. Unfortunately it got too damn HOT to drive around with the windows up and too expensive to run the AC all the time too... even thought it blowed really cold... So I ended up forking out $$$ on a brand new one...

Anyway, sounds like your learning quite a bit about your truck and how things work..unfortunately the hard way. But just to let you know on my son's 62 he had somewhat of a hesitation too. I figured it was because it was old. But we ended up having to do reseal the transfer case and added a McNamarra Gear from Australia... had a bad case of ATF in the T/Case... Good luck.

Scott

RMP&O
09-24-2011, 01:26 AM
The Dakar Suspension is good.. I went with MAF 4" on my son's 62 (which included the SR kit) but to be honest, I don't think its even needed on the 60/62.

At 4" we ran into issues with severe bump steer and wobble. Swapped out new TRE and 4* shims... and it helped a little bit, but still had a slight wobble.

I'd stick with 2.5 - 3.5 lift without the SR kit.

I ended looking everywhere for a driver side master control switch for the 62. Unfortunately it got too damn HOT to drive around with the windows up and too expensive to run the AC all the time too... even thought it blowed really cold... So I ended up forking out $$$ on a brand new one...

Anyway, sounds like your learning quite a bit about your truck and how things work..unfortunately the hard way. But just to let you know on my son's 62 he had somewhat of a hesitation too. I figured it was because it was old. But we ended up having to do reseal the transfer case and added a McNamarra Gear from Australia... had a bad case of ATF in the T/Case... Good luck.

Scott

I got the same suspension, 4", ie 2.5" OME and 1.5" from the SR. I am running 35s and am liking it now a lot. I had some wobble, it was from lose wheel bearings. We did a C&T on the diff though too and set castor so it is not just shimmed. I just had it aligned today and it is like driving a new truck!

If you are going with 33s or smaller I don't think you need 4" of lift. I have the OME heavies in the rear and mediums up front. The heavies are not as heavy as I expected. The mediums are even a bit soft but I do not have a 2/3F rather my engine is at least a few hundred lbs lighter.

There is a big thread on Mud about the p/w & p/l and grounding it to get them working correctly without buying a new master switch. I am converting my 60 to 62 p/w & p/l so will be follwing the grounding route rather then the big bucks for a new master switch....hopefully it will work out!

John E
09-25-2011, 12:16 AM
today was front brake pads and braided stainless steel brake lines.

Both pairs of pads were worn down over halfway, fluid was really filthy, dark brown in color with bits of "stuff" in it. Now it's clean and clear. Used a bottle and a half of new fluid to completely flush the front end. Will do the back end when I get to the brakes back there, I picked up a complete brake line replacement kit from SOR, the fronts were in much more immediate need of work so the backs will hold for a bit.

Pads were a piece of cake to replace, makes me think I should go ahead and pick up a piston seal rebuild kit and go back in and redo those too. Springs and pins were in good shape, a little cleaning and a touch of brake disc "quiet" and some moly lube on the pins and it all went back together in no time.

The brake lines were a bit more work, the connections were pretty corroded and took some liberal applications of PB Blaster and the mighty Harbor Freight heat gun to get them apart. For some reason I'm still not clear on, the RH side was really hard to get back together, had to loosen a clamp holding the hard brake tube in order to get the fitting into the stainless line. The eclip and spring plate/clip thingy that holds the line onto the bracket was a real pain to get back together properly but it all went together eventually. Having a real lift would sure be nice, doing this stuff while sitting on the ground is a pain.

Next up, trans fluid flush with a filter cleaning and new pan gasket and then it's onto the radiator flush and refill along with a working thermostat and gasket. Probably going to replace the water temp sending unit too, it's a cheap part and since I'm already taking the thermostat cover off I might as well.

I've got a new oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket for upcoming projects, gonna wait til I change the oil again next month. Figure I'll paint the valve cover and replace all of the grommets and PCV valve while it's off. It's in pretty rough looking shape.

Hoping to get a lift kit figured out in time for the Hollister rally but that might have to wait depending on my upcoming work schedule, gotta pay the bills too...;^)

Away we go...

lostworldexpedition
09-25-2011, 01:24 PM
Sounds like your Landcruiser is coming along. How about some photos?

As far as the suspension goes... I got the OME heavy and needed to add a leaf in the rear. Granted I definitely carry too much stuff, but I was surprised at how not "heavy" the Dakar heavies are.

I will be at the Hollister Overland Rally event, so it will be nice to meet you and your rig.

John E
10-03-2011, 03:15 AM
got done today. Finally got the transmission pan dropped, what a freakin mess I made in my driveway...Sheesh.

Good news, the pan came off really easy, bad news, the filter is missing the internal gasket that goes around the rectangular hole in the bottom of it. It's also a real pain to get those rearmost pan bolts re-installed, had to stop and re-rig my ratchet and Ujoint setup a couple of times to get it to work right. I splurged and bought myself a 3/8" air ratchet last week, made the job go a lot easier.

I went ahead and put the new pan gasket on and put it all back together after cleaning it as thoroughly as possible. The magnets were doing their job and had collected quite a bit of metallic "sludge", the fluid itself was very, very dark but didn't smell burned.

Anyone know what horrible thing will happen if I don't get back in there and replace the missing gasket? The screen itself was fairly clean, I'm not clear on what that gasket actually does.

I held off on refilling the fluid, bought 4 quarts of Toyota OEM to use but will wait if someone tells me the tranny will fail without the internal gasket in place. Think I'm gonna need a couple more quarts as well. Note to self, next time you think you should put some safety goggles on, don't ignore your inner feelings, transmission fluid in the eyes is a pain in the ...

Hoping to pull the radiator out tomorrow, was planning on doing that this past week but worked 5 days on some new Nike basketball commercials instead, good part is that I can now pay for my suspension upgrades...:)

Hollister is calling...

Flagster
10-03-2011, 08:02 PM
Sounds like your Landcruiser is coming along. How about some photos?



x2 on the photos...

John E
10-04-2011, 02:42 AM
given that I once made a living making photographs you might think that I'd have a better handle on posting some. I'll get on that soon.

In the meantime, another frustrating day in Cruisertown.

Went back under it today to torque down the hundred or so transmission pan bolts, I can just barely fit under the Cruiser if I avoid that weird junction pipe in the exhaust. Got the bolts properly "guutntite", put the now clean skid plate back on, waiting to fill it until I hear what the internal gasket on the filter screen does, I don't want to have to drain it all again if I really have to replace that gasket.

In the meantime, decided to wait on the complete radiator flush and start small with a new thermostat and gasket. While taking off the thermostat cover I managed to break off one of the bolts, this is becoming a fairly regular thing for me on this vehicle. While cursing that little bit of fun I realized that one of corners of the part that the thermostat cover attaches to is broken, as in broken off completely. It's held on by the bolt but the aluminum casting is snapped in two.

Now we're havin sum fun...

I get everything apart, I can see why one of the previous owners used so much gasket sealer, they were using it to keep the thermostat cover attached.

So tomorrow it's off to my buddy's welding shop to see if he can re-attach the broken off piece, I've seen him do similar stuff before, not really worried about it. Luckily the part that is broken is held onto the block with just a couple of bolts, should be able to replace it in a worst case scenario.

The good thing about all this is that even with some of the issues I've run into or caused myself, I've been able to fix all of them so far. I was a little worried when I saw that piece of cast aluminum hanging there I'll admit but it's all going to work out.

I took the opportunity to clean out a bunch of stuff that was stuck to the inside of the thermostat cover and the broken part, used a Dremel with a wire wheel to clean the stuff, looked like someone had used some radiator stop leak and tap water instead of distilled water in the radiator. Hoping that cleaning all that junk out will improve coolant flow and possibly get my temp gauge working properly.

I drilled out and retapped the broken bolt, good times. I've already decided to put a couple of the most common sized metric taps, some cutting fluid and a drill of some sort in my onboard toolkit for the Cruiser. Odds are of course if I do all that, I'll never break another bolt...;^)

Picked up some new SilverStar headlights over the weekend, those are going on tomorrow when I get back from the welding shop. I also got a sample of some rubber flooring material sent to me, going to make a new cargo area floor mat out of the stuff. It comes in largish tiles, 20"x20" if I recall in a mock diamond plate surface. It's probably overkill put it looks good and I don't think I'll be able to wear it out. The plan is to remove the old carpeting and padding, rust proof and bedliner the floor, add some soundproofing, some sort of thin padding and then lay the plastic flooring over all of it. Needless to say, that won't be done before I leave for Hollister. Just got booked for 6 more days of work this month, that means at least 70-80 hours and all 6 are back to back, that will cut into my Cruiser repair time considerably.

Hoping to do the valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket and finish up the thermostat issue before my next job starts.

Given my ability to break stuff while attempting to repair other stuff, it's gonna be interesting to see what happens next...

Hedge
10-04-2011, 04:01 PM
now what?
An auxiliary transmission cooler to help that A440F last longer. May be able to find one from a 91-97 Land Cruiser in a wrecking yard.

Oh, and join the 3FE mailing list.

John E
10-05-2011, 01:33 AM
with a new water outlet in my bag o'goodies.

I thought about it and decided that for a whopping 50 bucks I'd be better off with a used part rather than a welded one. Still planning on taking the broken one to my pal the weldor but it will only be used as a last ditch spare if I should ever manage to break another one. Specter Off Road have some used ones in stock, they're in good shape with no broken flanges or broken off bolts like mine was.

Picked up a new gasket and a new fuel filter while I was there. On the way home I picked up some hoses, a gallon or so of anti-seize and some more gasket sealant at NAPA Auto Parts, guy there found a small hose with 2 90 degree bends in it that I was able to cut up. For less than half of what Toyota wanted for 1 I was able to replace both of the EFI warmer hoses. Sweet.

For anyone unfamilar with Specter Off Road, it's literally a LandCruiser boneyard and parts warehouse located in the Northwestern corner of the San Fernando valley here in SoCal. An unbelievable place, they've got more cool old Cruisers in their warehouse than you can imagine. LandCruiser firetrucks, ambulances, work vehicles, race vehicles, etc, etc. Really cool place.

I've joined their buyers club, well worth the money it costs, I think I've already saved enough to pay for a years membership. The service at the counter is spectacular, if they don't know, they don't B.S. you, they find someone who does know. In my case the gasket I needed was labeled incorrectly, we discovered the problem and had the proper gasket double checked by 2 employees.

I got a quick nickel tour of the back yard after talking to one of the guys there, my god, piles of Cruisers stacked to the rafters in various stages of disassembly. Also got a referral for a real neat gadget to use with an impact wrench to get more leverage. With that and my proven ability to break stuff, I'll be lucky if I don't demolish my FJ.

I'm very lucky to have them so relatively close to me.

So the new outlet will get installed tomorrow along with a new thermostat, gaskets, couple of new hoses, new hose clamps all around and then a quick flush of the old coolant and hopefully that will take care of that for a while at least.

Picked up another commercial shooting tomorrow night which will cut even deeper into my Hollister preps but I can't afford to turn down work and I can of course, use the money to buy more Cruiser stuff...;^)

John E
10-05-2011, 04:24 AM
An auxiliary transmission cooler to help that A440F last longer. May be able to find one from a 91-97 Land Cruiser in a wrecking yard.

Oh, and join the 3FE mailing list.


I've joined the crowd over at IH8MUD, a fantastic source of information on all things Cruiser related. Is the the 3FE list something else?

On the topic of a transmission cooler, I've seen them recommended but haven't quite figured out where one would go on mine. I believe that they're meant to be mounted in front of the radiator but I've got this rather large AC condensor there.

Is there some approved place to put one on an FJ62 that I just haven't found yet?

RMP&O
10-05-2011, 01:55 PM
A stock FJ62 radiator has a built in tranny cooler. How well it works though I have no idea.

BTW, how about some pictures of your truck!

John E
10-06-2011, 08:35 PM
but this time I outsmarted the 25mm of 20+ year old alloy.

I was tightening the last bolt on the thermostat cover, the one that holds a small hose bracket in place when the usual happened, bolt head twisted right off leaving the shank stuck in the cover. Fortunately I had already applied a liberal amount of anti-seize so with a quick spin of the cordless drill equipped with my spiffy Snap-On cobalt LH drill bit, out it came to be replaced with a much newer and cleaner stainless steel equivalent.

I'm thinking of hiring myself out as a Land Cruiser broken bolt repairman.

Rough estimate so far, in all the various relatively small jobs I've done I've had at least 8-10 bolts break off. Just one of the reasons I bought a much larger container of anti seize grease at the NAPA store the other day.

On the better side, the new/used water outlet part fit perfectly, I now have a working thermostat and temperature gauge, there's a lot less crap in my coolant and I learned a little bit about why the engineers who designed the Cruiser did some of the things they did, stuff like using spring clamps on some of the hose fittings instead of the threaded band type clamps. I used to think it was purely economical, now that I've gotten a little deeper into things I've realized that there are circumstances where needing to use a screwdriver or a wrench to tighten a clamp is a real pain in the ***. A simple spring actually does the job.

We live, we learn.

Next up, try to finish removing the small screws that hold the headlight frames in place and replace the headlights and the screws themselves. There are 16 of them, all of them on the top side of the frames came out with a little PB Blaster and some gentle work with a phillips screwdriver, the ones on the bottom are a different story. I have surmised that water drains down, no flies on me mate: and that tends to keep them wetter longer than the top screws, this has led to some serious corrosion, couple that with the mild steel screw tightened against the chrome of the frame and I'm sure there's some sort galvanic corrosion going on as well. Worst case, it's drill time again.

I have to fix the power window lock switch too, the various passenger windows are all down about 1/3 of the way and can't be moved since the switch gave up the ghost the other day, needless to say I can't have that so I'll be pulling the switch off the door and trying to jumper it as I read about on the MUD forums.

Ah, I see rain clouds coming in, more joy...

lostworldexpedition
10-06-2011, 08:51 PM
If you don't start posting photos I am going to chalk this thread to a guy making it all up :sombrero:

Flagster
10-06-2011, 09:17 PM
I'm thinking of hiring myself out as a Land Cruiser broken bolt repairman.



I could use your services...but I only hire those who post pictures of their trucks...need to know your credentials:coffeedrink:

Hedge
10-07-2011, 01:24 AM
The 3FE List is a good-old-fashioned email listserv. It's a nice supplement to ih8mud. Not necessarily better, just...different.

The aux transmission cooler mounts in front of the AC condensor and supplements the less-effective transmission cooler that is built into the engine coolant radiator. Some folks allege that FJ62 transmissions tend to be shorter-lived than the same A440Fs used in the 1991-1992 FJ80s because they lack the auxiliary cooler found on the FJ80s.

John E
10-07-2011, 02:15 AM
now with my new Sylvania "Silverstar" low beams in place and working.

Only 2 broken bolts this time out! Technically speaking the bolts didn't break so much as I drilled them out before they broke and now that I think of it, it wasn't so much that the bolts broke as it was that I stripped the threads that the bolts go into.

Anyone who's ever replaced an older headlight is familiar with the frame around the edge of the sealed beam bulb setup. In my case since I have the superior FJ62 with it's stylish 4 headlight array, that means there are 16 short 4mm bolts, well technically they're phillip head machine screws but I digress; holding the frames around the bulbs. 8 of mine came out relatively easily, the other 8 did not.

Having learned a few things I decided to drill them out before I broke them, got out the cobalt bits, the EZ outs, more PB Blaster, some pliers cause every repair seems to need pliers at some point, my old school 9.6v Makita cordless, a can of electronic cleaning spray, little bit of di-electric grease for the bulb contacts, and my old friend the tube of anti-seize. No hammers were used in this episode.

All but 2 came out pretty quick and easy once I hit with the cobalt drill bit, the 2 that didn't, strangely enough they were both in the same relative position, innermost lower corner of the high beam bulbs...hmmm....strange that or is it a pattern....? Don't know, don't really care cause I fixed em. I managed to damage the threads on the fittings where the screw threads in, stripped them just enough so that the screw wouldn't tighten down so I ended up using a longer machine screw, couple of washers and a locknut on the back of each screw. Worked so well I might go back and do the rest of them just to be consistent. I probably won't purposefully ruin the existing threads, just add the locknuts...:)

And I took some photographs of the process!!! Now I just need to figure out how to get them from the camera to this forum. I know there's a tutorial or an FAQ that explains it around here somewhere.

Things are moving along nicely, I wasn't able to go and get the oil pan gasket today so that's on the list for tomorrow along with trying to get the window switch fixed. Once I get the new gasket and put a few more miles on, I'm going to change the oil again, do another transmission fluid drain and dump, might possibly try and get the tie rod ends replaced but otherwise I think that'll be it for now. Oops, almost forgot, I'm going to drain and flush out the radiator, can't stand the idea of that new thermostat and outlet being filled with dirty coolant.

I'm scheduled for too much work and the girlfriend and I are taking a very short vacation together a few days before I head out to Hollister to get much else done. Suspension and the interior work will start once I get back. And my spiffy new paint scheme will start to come together too!

This just in...took the plunge and ordered a B&M transmission cooler from Amazon.com, if it arrives in time and I don't break any bolts I'll get it put in before heading out.

esh
10-07-2011, 05:06 AM
I have found using a free service like Google Picasa to work well. Google is a little tricky on linking pics (use the "embed" photo, image only, and make sure to change the drop-down to 800px). For general purpose web stuff, I have the Google Picasa client on my Linux and Windows PCs. It is a great pics browser to help find stuff and transfer to online Picasa albums.

so after getting the pics somewhere you can link from, use the img tags in a post-

http://mypic.link.goes.here

There are other ways probably much easier, but I figure Google has an awesome amount of bandwidth and you get 1GB of free storage space.

John E
10-08-2011, 05:29 AM
I'll get something set up soon.

In the meantime, can we talk about power window switches for a moment?

My FJ was suffering from what appears to be a pretty common problem, non-working window lock switchitis. I've read a few accounts on IH8Mud about the problem and was aware of it but didn't pay it too much attention because one of the previous owners had shorted out the faulty switch and that allows the power windows to work. There's no way to lock them, but that's not a big deal to me.

But, there's always a but, somewhere along the way in the past couple of weeks of repairs, smog testing shops, exhaust repair shops, me, etc. the previously repaired switch had gone bad again. The problem was that all of the various passenger windows were partly open and I couldn't open or close them with the switch broken.

So today I decided to try and fix the broken switch.

I started by partly detaching the door panel from the frame, taking the door handle and the latch surround off as I went along. Without taking the entire panel off I was able to detach the wiring harnesses and pull the switch assembly out. The switch is held in place in a curious way, there are malleable metal "fingers" that are attached to the switch box in such a way as to put the tips of the fingers into the door, you simply bend them over and voila, the switch box is held in place. Crude maybe but effective.

I bent them back to pull out the switch and discover that for some not very obvious reason someone had cut and then poorly soldered the main wire leading to the lock switch back together and that they had done an equally poor job of shorting out the contacts to disable the switch. Another wire leading to one of the individual window switches had also been really poorly spliced, unless you consider a piece of cheap electrical tape a good repair; so I re-soldered the wires, made a tiny jumper with some tinned 18 gauge wire, soldered it in place across the terminals and voila again, I had 4 working windows.

Now the fun part. It seems that the engineers at Toyota decided that they wanted to make the momentary contact switches completely serviceable, in doing so they made it a bit hard to get all of the various pieces together again, I trial fitted every thing a few times before I screwed it all back together. 2 of the very small screws that hold the switch box together were missing and several of the threaded parts of the box were cracked or broken off so it was a little dicey. Along the way I began to realize something, Toyota could have simply used some generic toggle type switches for this part but instead they made the entire assembly from the wiring harness to the small copper rocker arms that make up the contacts of the switch not only removable but replaceable. Someone at one time was thinking ahead about what might need to be repaired one day and in doing so they made the assembly repairable instead of simply replaceable.

A small but outstanding example of why I am coming to actually enjoy working on this vehicle so much. I like the way they were thinking when they designed it and when they built it. I may not feel that way if it ever breaks down in the middle of nowhere but for now, like Mr. Pirsig wrote about in his wonderful book on motorcycle maintenance, I find it's me that I'm repairing along the way.

Got a last minute call for a couple of commercials the next few days so the rest will have to wait a bit. Really hoping I can get what I want done before I need to leave.

So it goes...

John E
10-17-2011, 07:21 PM
I've been extremely fortunate the last week or so in that I've been working a lot, big 3 auto company job for 3 days and I just wrapped another 3+ days on another job for a computer company which can't be named, literally, signed an NDA that says I can't say who I worked for.

The upshot, more funds available but way too little time to finish doing what I wanted to do on the FJ. I'm leaving in a couple of hours on a little shakedown run into the local mountains, get back just in time to pack and leave for Hollister.

The transmission cooler and other stuff will have to wait til I get back.

I'm taking a few spares along including my trusty taps and cutting oil...;^)

Back on the repair track in week or so.

Hope to see some of you in Hollister, I'll be the guy with the metal shavings and cutting oil dripping from my rather worn FJ62 with working windows...

xpunkfishx
12-28-2011, 11:12 PM
Any more updates??

fowldarr
01-05-2012, 02:11 AM
5 pages....no pictures...

NM-Frontier
01-05-2012, 04:19 PM
Yes updates please!
Id love to see how things are coming along. We seem to have wagons in similar shape but with there own problems just your better at writing about them... although I do post pictures!:sombrero:

John E
02-10-2012, 05:01 AM
I've been curiously quiet for a while, mainly cause I haven't been doing much with the FJ.

All that is changing cause my trusty Subaru is starting to give me some trouble and I'm going to be putting the FJ into service as a work vehicle much sooner than originally planned. Looks like the Suby will become my son's car and I'll be looking for a newer one as my "other" vehicle to use when the FJ isn't practical.

Today the FJ went to Richard's shop in an effort to find out why I have a rather severe stuttering and bucking issue at times, mostly when it's cold but it also happens at other random times, I've read about a hundred or so threads on Mud about what it might be but I just don't have the time or the diagnostic ability to figure it all out, Richard at K&H Imports does and he seems to think he might already know what the problem is. Hope to have it back next week, he's also going to find out what's causing what sounds like a mechanical issue with the transmission or transfer case. Hard to describe, at seemingly random times I get this rather severe "clunk" sound and a short loss of power, usually only happens on the freeway at speeds over 60 mph. Of course it didn't do it all on the drive to the shop earlier today. Gotta get that fixed obviously.

After all that, I'm going to have the tie rod ends I bought from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters, fitted. I'll be in touch about a steering stabilizer in a couple of days Kurt! And then it's the suspension setup, and probably some new tires...it just never ends.

Still have some photos but haven't yet figured out how to post them, had some pretty serious family health issues to deal with the last couple of weeks or so and just haven't taken the time to learn to do it properly but I will.

Planning a trip up to Santa Cruz in June for my daughter's college graduation and then hopefully up to Arcata to touch base with a very old friend, will either be taking the FJ or maybe riding up on the bike, haven't decided yet. May wait to see how much getting everything done to the FJ is gonna cost before I decide.

More to come...

cruiseroutfit
02-14-2012, 04:00 AM
...I'll be in touch about a steering stabilizer in a couple of days Kurt! And then it's the suspension setup, and probably some new tires...it just never ends...

Sounds like a plan... and no, it never ends :D

John E
02-15-2012, 08:44 PM
things get better. Heard from the shop that the FJ is now fixed and running like a "striped ape..." not sure what that means exactly but it sounded positive.

Tie rod ends are in, steering wheel is now aligned and I have a new steering stabilizer, sorry Kurt but I'll be back for some of your stuff later.

Hoping to get out to pick it up later this afternoon.

Which brings me to the next project and where Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters will be getting some of my cash.

I want to rebuild and/or replace all of the wheel bearings and hubs.

What's the best order of business to do this? Any ideas considered, would like to be able to do the work myself as what I've read is mostly keeping parts in order and using lots of paper towels to clean up the grease and grime.

How deep into the hubs/axles should I plan on going?

I'm open to any advice.

Thanks.

cruiseroutfit
02-21-2012, 05:15 AM
If your going to tear it open, do a full knuckle rebuild... simple as that. Go all the way from the Aisin hubs to the inner axle seals. Its very straightforward and super well documented on Ih8mud and other sites with nice step by step photos. Parts are under $200 and it can be done in a weekend by a first timer, 6-8 hours is what we plan depending on how clean it is, etc. Start by taking it to the car wash and getting the exterior of the axle as clean as possible. Give us a ring and we will walk you through all the needed parts and associated tools :D

irish_11
02-21-2012, 03:51 PM
I just bought a knuckle rebuild kit with wheel bearings from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters for my Fj62. The price is right, give him a call. I went for the Marlin inner seals as well. I figure if I am going in there I am going to do everything right the first time. As said above look on Ih8mud for the info on the rebuild. There are a bunch of good walk throughs on there.

These two videos looked helpful:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3CI4mmEv6A&feature=relmfu


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlcVwWAAHw8

John E
02-21-2012, 03:55 PM
Kurt, I'll be in touch soon.

On the negative side, I think I may have a transmission going out. I keep getting a loud "whining" sound whenever I get it above 65mph and I get a very loud "whining" whenever the kickdown gear(s) are engaged. I've checked the fluid and it seems to be at the right level, gonna do a quick drain and fill and see if that helps.

Looks like all the belts should be replaced too. Still haven't gotten around to replacing the radiator but I did pick up a new hose set at Specter Offroad the other day.

It never really ends, things just keep happenin...

On the plus side, the new tie rod ends and stabilizer have helped tremendously, the new suspension that will be forthcoming will hopefully get a large part of my running gear issues settled. Other than the tranny of course...

Wheelingnoob
02-21-2012, 07:07 PM
Kurt, I'll be in touch soon.

On the negative side, I think I may have a transmission going out. I keep getting a loud "whining" sound whenever I get it above 65mph and I get a very loud "whining" whenever the kickdown gear(s) are engaged. I've checked the fluid and it seems to be at the right level, gonna do a quick drain and fill and see if that helps.

Looks like all the belts should be replaced too. Still haven't gotten around to replacing the radiator but I did pick up a new hose set at Specter Offroad the other day.

It never really ends, things just keep happenin...

On the plus side, the new tie rod ends and stabilizer have helped tremendously, the new suspension that will be forthcoming will hopefully get a large part of my running gear issues settled. Other than the tranny of course...

That sounds a lot like something in the t case to me. Check the fluid in the t case (drain and fill). The Auto when it goes bad usually does not make any noise it just does not move. Also check the diff fluid levels.

John E
02-22-2012, 03:33 PM
thanks, you reminded me that I hadn't done a drain and fill of either the transfer case or the diffs, planned to but didn't as the engine issues distracted me.

So now I have 2 gallons of gear oil, a pump, a grease gun,and a couple of drain pans, gonna drain, fill and then lube as many fittings as I can get to without putting it up on a lift and hopefully get rid of some of the various odd noises that seem to be coming from my drive train.

I did a quick drain and fill of the trans yesterday just for fun, fluid was dark but didn't smell burned, gonna do another one and then see what happens.

Planning on a short jaunt out to Joshua Tree NP this weekend, if the drive train holds up that is.

Onward...

Flagster
02-22-2012, 04:23 PM
50 posts and no pics...Moderators you should lock this thread :)

John E
02-22-2012, 08:30 PM
so today's work has yielded some interesting stuff. First, I'm not positive but I don't think that the gear oil used in the differentials is supposed to be a disgusting gray color, and somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I'm supposed to be putting 80/90 weight gear oil in the transfer case right? not what looks like some sort of mix of ATF and crap? Not to mention, there's supposed to be just under 2 quarts of oil in the transfer case and I drained out less than a quart.

I feel like an idiot, I should have checked the transfer and differentials months ago but I got caught up in getting the engine work done.

Hope the drain and fill with the proper fluids will be enough. Put almost 3 quarts of oil in the front diff and just under 2 in the transfer case.

Unbelievable what the previous owner did or had done to this Cruiser, it makes me sad, really, I know it's just a mechanical thing but I just don't like seeing machines abused.

Can't get to the rear diff easily in my current driveway/garage/other vehicle configuration so I'll probably have that one done at a local shop, and in a very reminiscent scene, I managed to break a bolt while taking the skid plate off from under the transfer case so I'll need to get it up on a lift and drill out the remaining piece of bolt thread.

Onward...

CA-RJ
02-22-2012, 09:05 PM
Keep at it. Once you get it all fixed, it will love you forever.

Wheelingnoob
02-22-2012, 09:19 PM
so today's work has yielded some interesting stuff. First, I'm not positive but I don't think that the gear oil used in the differentials is supposed to be a disgusting gray color, and somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I'm supposed to be putting 80/90 weight gear oil in the transfer case right? not what looks like some sort of mix of ATF and crap? Not to mention, there's supposed to be just under 2 quarts of oil in the transfer case and I drained out less than a quart.

I feel like an idiot, I should have checked the transfer and differentials months ago but I got caught up in getting the engine work done.

Hope the drain and fill with the proper fluids will be enough. Put almost 3 quarts of oil in the front diff and just under 2 in the transfer case.

Unbelievable what the previous owner did or had done to this Cruiser, it makes me sad, really, I know it's just a mechanical thing but I just don't like seeing machines abused.

Can't get to the rear diff easily in my current driveway/garage/other vehicle configuration so I'll probably have that one done at a local shop, and in a very reminiscent scene, I managed to break a bolt while taking the skid plate off from under the transfer case so I'll need to get it up on a lift and drill out the remaining piece of bolt thread.

Onward...

Figured that was going to be the issue. I learned a long time ago no mater the issue with a new truck/car always drain and fill all the fluids first.

The t case with a ATF/whatever mix maybe some ATF transfer from the tranny to the tcase there is a seal between the two that usually leaks if that's the case. If it was to the point of making noise chances are the t case is due for a rebuild.

John E
02-24-2012, 03:34 PM
I now have both of the differentials and the transfer case drained and refilled with the proper amount of gear oil, on the negative side, how much should I expect to pay to have the transfer case either rebuilt or replaced...? :Wow1:

The whining sound that was occurring at around 65 mph in the transfer case is still there after I drained and refilled it. It's not as bad but it's definitely not right. Around town the Cruiser is much quieter and smoother sounding so I know the new oil helped, my fear is that I'll end up on some remote film location with a busted transfer case and I don't want to go thru that if possible.

In other news, I've decided to wait a bit on the planned lift kit, I'm not positive how far I want to take this given the issues that have been cropping up so the current plan is to replace what look like the original Toyota shocks with some new KYB's, get the drive train in better shape, get the bearings and axle seals done and then decide what I want to do with a lift and the other planned upgrades, ie, bumpers, wheels, tires, etc. I'll probably still do some interior work in the cargo area and will be replacing the stereo head unit as well. I can do most or all of that work myself and it's not gonna cost me a fortune.

Onward...

Wheelingnoob
02-24-2012, 04:11 PM
Should not need to replace the t case. They do need rebuilds from time to time it seems, not supper hard just requires a press and a factory service manual so you can set it all up. The other option is I know there is a shop is cali that does a lot of work on Slit cases and had a good following on ih8mud, think his handle on there is Orange something (George @ Valley hybrids). My brother and I replaced the T case on his because some one had chipped to teeth off the gears on a previous rebuild. They are very very robust units they just need oil to run, the one in my brothers ran with chilled teeth for god knows how long before we got it and it was still drivable just made quite a bit of wine at speed and vibrations. If the teeth had not bee damaged it would have been a simple rebuild.

John E
03-01-2012, 08:49 PM
I've been in touch with Georg at Valley Hybrids, waiting on a ballpark estimate of time and cost to have the transfer case rebuilt and possibly a swap to an H55 manual 5 speed transmission. Hoping to be able to drive it up to him and take a short trip over to Santa Cruz in a rental while he gets it sorted out and then I'll drive it back to SoCal.

In the meantime, I've got 4 new shocks due to arrive any day now, going to install those and hold off on any upgraded springs and/or lift for now. I'd rather put the money towards the transfer case and transmission and of course, gas to run the thing...

Still need to pull the radiator and either get it soldered or replaced too.

And then there's the new rubber seals and windshield to think about, axle and hub rebuilds, the interior, some new tires, stereo, speakers, some upgraded wiring, fuzzy dice...

It may well never end.

Onward...

RMP&O
03-01-2012, 09:34 PM
50 posts and no pics...Moderators you should lock this thread :)

I agree and second that!

John E
03-02-2012, 07:24 PM
still no photos...???

Yes there are no photos, once I get around to doing the actual work, I just don't think about taking any.

I did take a few when I worked on blacking out the grille and putting in the new headlights, I will get them posted.

In the meantime, the front shocks arrived late yesterday afternoon and as of about 5 minutes ago, they're installed.

Very easy, had to use a bottle jack to compress them a bit but all of the hardware came off fairly easily, no broken or stripped bolts anywhere...Yay for me.

The rears are on their way, hopefully arriving early next week and with any luck, they'll go on as easy as the fronts did.

I went with some KYB Monomaxs, found em on Amazon for a very good price, since I've decided to hold off on the lift and I'm still not sure how much the transfer case work is gonna be, I decided to spend less on the shocks for now and just get the Cruiser running smoother. When I decide how much more I'm gonna do suspension wise I'll probably end up spending more later. When/if that happens I should be able to sell the KYB's for a few bucks and in the meantime I get a better ride.

Onward...

John E
03-09-2012, 03:26 PM
has become very hard to do the last couple of days, I checked and cleaned the electrical connections to the cold start injector, pulled the EFI fuse to clear any codes and it's still a chore.

Anyone have any tips on removing and either cleaning or replacing the CSI? I've done several searches on IH8Mud with little success, cleaning the CSI gets referred to but with very little in the way of details.

In other news, I started working on the truck bed liner part of the paint job, filled in the holes left from removing the "snake blinders" with some plastic plugs and some epoxy, lightly sanded down the remaining paint on the rocker panels and then slapped on the first coat of liner. It's a little glossier than I wanted but I assume that it will dull down with time and UV exposure.

The new rear shocks arrived late yesterday, hoping to get them in today and do some more bed liner work as well.

Onward...

Wheelingnoob
03-09-2012, 06:22 PM
Just a word of warning driving it with the T case in a bad state of repair will increase the repair cost when you get to it. They are very strong units but once they start going bad its best to make that the top priority one way or another.

John E
03-09-2012, 07:49 PM
for the transfer case info. It's at the top of the list of necessary repairs, I want to get the starting issue dealt with first if for no other reason to enable me to drive it to the shop to get the TC rebuilt. I got an estimate of $1250 to completely rebuild it from Georg up at Valley Hybrids in Stockton, gonna ask my local guy what he can it for and decide if I want to do a repair road trip.

On another note, the rear shocks are now in, KYB Monomax's just like the fronts.

They went in pretty easy, lifted the back end with the floor jack and used the bottle jack to compress the shock while installing.

While doing the passenger side I noticed a small amount of gas was dripping from a line coming off the fuel tank, was able to get a couple of wrenches on it and tighten it up but I'm going to take it in to a proper shop with a lift to have it checked and/or replaced as needed.

Waiting for some shade to do some more work on the bedliner project, it's not real warm out today, just too bright and hard to work in my driveway this time of day.

Onward...

Wheelingnoob
03-09-2012, 09:35 PM
I have heard nothing but high praise for George.

Patman
03-10-2012, 01:01 AM
I have heard nothing but high praise for George.

Yeah Georg is the real deal. One of those guys you just don't worry about.

John E
03-10-2012, 03:32 PM
I got a good feeling about Georg when I traded PM's with him over on Mud.

The issues with having him do the work are these, if I drive up to Stockton it will add a couple of hundred bucks to the cost right off the bat.

If something should need further attention, ie, any sort of warranty work on the repair, it's back to Stockton again. It's almost 350 miles from my house to Stockton, that's quite a drive just to get some work done. The cost of gas, not to mention the time involved make it problematical. While I'm not opposed to driving that far for fun, it's a long way to go just to get some work done.

I'm going to get an estimate from Richard at K&H up in Canoga Park, he's a pretty well respected Cruiser mechanic and he's worked on the FJ a few times already, he's the guy who got it to pass the smog test for me when I was fighting with the previous owner. If he's within a couple of hundred bucks, I'll probably end up staying local. I have talked to Georg about doing a 5 speed manual swap-out as well, that may be in the cards later this year.

Today's mechanical tip. You know how people always tell you to retighten the lug nuts after you lower your vehicle when you've had up on a jack or on a lift? Well I learned first hand why it's important to do that last night. I must have forgotten to do it after I had the front end jacked up when installing my new shocks cause I felt a thumping vibration when I was exiting the freeway on my way to a local car sho. Upon stopping and inspecting things, I found the lug nuts on the right front wheel were all finger tight....Yikes...

Needless to say, I checked all of the other wheels, found them all good. I shudder to think what might have happened.

Today's plan, do some more bedliner work, sand and prime a couple of surface rust spots and where some of the previous paint job was really badly done. Maybe start measuring and designing the replacement panels for the cargo space side walls. And re-recheck the lug nuts of course...


Onward...

huntsonora
03-12-2012, 03:21 AM
You should name your Land Cruiser "Sasquatch". Its fitting because we've all heard rumors that exists but nobody has ever seen it:sombrero:

njtacoma
03-12-2012, 03:45 AM
You should name your Land Cruiser "Sasquatch". Its fitting because we've all heard rumors that exists but nobody has ever seen it:sombrero:
ok that's funny!

John E
03-12-2012, 09:17 PM
you're right, it's funny...:)

In the meantime, is anyone else having issues with the IH8mud website not working?

Tryin to get some more info on my cold start injector issue and all I get when I go there is a white screen.

Anyone here have any history with working on the CSI on an FJ62?

I promise to post some pics....:)

CA-RJ
03-12-2012, 09:28 PM
Mud is working fine for me.

John E
03-13-2012, 02:48 AM
just tried Mud again, text box says it's temporarily offline, update details at their Facebook page.

On another note, I checked with Richard at K&H Imports, his estimate came in a little lower than Georg's and of course, he's over 300 miles closer so I think I'm gonna keep it local for this job and keep Georg in the "future trans replacement" file for now. Interestingly enough, they were working on a transfer case when I went there and Richard was able to show me what the likely culprit is from my description of the symptoms. He had a nice looking late model white FJ60 being completely reworked in the shop, an "open ticket" repair. Must be nice to have that much disposable income. I was just a tiny bit envious.

I dropped by Specter Offroad since I was in the neighborhood and picked up a cold start injector temp sensor from them along with some new front side marker lights (on sale for only $14.00 each by the way, the lights not the sensor...:)) I had described the problems I've been having with starting the FJ to Richard earlier and he seemed pretty sure that the sensor was the problem. Planning on trying to test the old one and install the new as needed tomorrow.
Worst case, I'll still have some issues starting in cold weather.

Onward...

John E
03-13-2012, 08:37 PM
today. Got my new front marker lights installed, much nicer having them both working, the drivers side was missing the entire lamp assembly so it was completely non-functional and the passenger side was in really bad shape. Couldn't beat the price, $28.00 for both complete assemblies including new screw holders, screws, wiring and bulbs. (shameless plug, all their side marker lights are on sale this month at Specter Off-Road, end shameless plug).

Tested the cold start sensor, couldn't get any reading on it with either of the 2 ohm meters I tried, it's supposed to have between 30-50 ohms of resistance when cold, tested the new one and it had the correct level of resistance. I also tested the resistance on the injector itself, it was within the parameters (right around 4 ohms) so I took the old sensor out, replaced it and voila, much easier starting. It's about 60-65 degrees outside so probably wasn't a true test of the cold starting capability but it definitely started easier and immediately idled better than it had been doing lately so I'm going to call this a qualified successful repair, I'll try starting it early in the morning tomorrow and see what happens.

Only a tiny amount of blood spillage while trying to take the wiring connectors apart on the side markers so I'm gonna call that a success as well.

Onward...

John E
03-16-2012, 06:00 PM
and I'm looking for some advice.

As noted earlier I picked up a new/used cold start injector sensor from Specter Off-road earlier this week. I tested the old one according to the manual and it was kaput, tested the new one before installing it and it tested good. For those who don't know the test involves checking the resistance across the 2 electrical terminals on the end of the sensor.

So I installed the new sensor and tested the injector itself as well, it tested out good too. First time I started it it seemed better, after letting it sit overnight and every time I've started it since, it's exhibiting the same symptoms as it did before I "fixed" it.

Those symptoms are, very hard to start, very rough and low RPM's at idle when it does start, after a minute or so, it smooths out, RPM's go up and it seems to be fine. All of these are classic cold start injector issues from what I've read and been told.

Anyone have any ideas as to what I should do next, other than wait til the weather warms up before driving the FJ? Could the injector itself just be dirty? I thought of that first but the starting problems came on really, really quickly as in it started fine one day and the next morning it didn't and it seems like a dirty injector would be more of a gradually increasing problem than an immediate one, to me anyway.

Some additional info, I cleaned all of the electrical connections with spray cleaner very thoroughly, there are no visible cuts or breaks in any of the wires involved. The new sensor is showing the correct amount of resistance across the terminals as is the injector itself after testing with 2 separate VOM's.

Now that the Mud forums are back online I'm gonna go ask for help there but I wanted to pick as many brains as possible.

Thanks for any help or thoughts.

Onward, but not so much when it's cold...:(

John E
03-27-2012, 03:46 PM
no comments on the cold starting issue....?

Ok, moving on.

I think my water pump bearings may be going bad, getting some squealing sounds coming from under the hood when it's idling that go away as soon as I accelerate. Gonna try some belt lube stuff first but in a worst case scenario, just how hard is it to replace the water pump on an FJ62? From the service manual I have it seems pretty straight forward. If I do it, I'm going to take the radiator out and have a couple of small leaks in it repaired while I have it all apart and I would also replace all of the drive belts, hoses, and probably the radiator cap and thermostat as well.

Entirely unrelated, I replaced both the dome lights with LED units last week. Once I get past the really poorly assembled parts, the lights themselves are great.

Had to rewire one of the LED circuit boards and both of the festoon bulb adapters were inoperable and had to be redone as well, don't want to name the vendor as he offered to replace the faulty parts but I decided to just fix them instead. Took a little bit of time to rewire but now that they're done, I'm pretty pleased.

Onward...

Wheelingnoob
03-27-2012, 05:37 PM
I would put new belts of first to eliminate the easy things, do OEM belts as the after market ones tend to suck. No point changing the water pump if its not really a problem.

No idea on the cold start issues, you try cleaning the cold start injector?

JEM
03-28-2012, 01:15 AM
Yes, I would clean up the actual cold start injector.

Remove the CSI, clean it w/carb cleaner & a rag. Replace it & see how it starts. When you loosen the CSI have a rag to collect the fuel that will come out...it will spray a bit, but not enough to worry about. 10 min fix & it solved my similar problem.

John

John E
03-28-2012, 04:34 AM
I'll be pulling the CSI out tomorrow if I have time, hope it just needs cleaning.

It's weird that the sensors would test bad and have the injector need cleaning at the same time but it's the only thing that seems at all likely.

Onward...

John E
04-09-2012, 09:19 PM
the CSI (cold start injector) was completely filthy, I mean gunked up with some foul deposits of old unleaded fuel and what have you.

Now it's clean and fresh smelling too...:)

Everything came apart easily enough, went back together easily enough, no blood loss, no broken bolts, no need for the drill and the EZ outs and the Cruiser started like a champ when I was finished so I'm gonna call this a tentative win.

Onward...

John E
04-10-2012, 03:45 PM
went to start the FJ this morning, it's a balmy 55 degrees here in SoCal today. It started but it still took 3 attempts and it was idling very rough for the first minute or so. It started easier immediately after I cleaned out the injector yesterday but it was about 20 degrees warmer when I tried it.

I'm not sure what my next step is going to be. Obviously cold starting where I live isn't a huge issue or at least it won't be for the next few months but I have been known to go to places that are colder than where I live and I need it to start all the time, not just when it's warm outside.

To recap, I've replaced the cold start sensor that's attached to the thermostat housing, the old one tested out as dead using 2 different VOM's, I've cleaned all of the various electrical connections for the CSI system and as of yesterday I've removed the actual injector and cleaned it thoroughly. There's a strong smell of gas in the exhaust when I do get it started that seems to have gotten much worse as the starting has gotten harder as well. The idle smoothes out after about a minute or so although it still runs rougher than it should in my opinion. Did a tune up, replaced the wires, plugs, etc and had a valve adjustment done a few months ago

I'm open to any more suggestions or ideas as to what I should check and/or replace next.

John E
05-14-2012, 03:02 PM
next repair that is.

Going to take advantage of being out of town on a motorcycle trip next month and have the transfer case rebuilt while I'm gone.

Hoping it won't take more time than the 5-6 weekdays I'll be away.

In the meantime, the warmer weather has given me a break on the hard starting so I've temporarily moved on from that issue and I'm going to focus on the cooling system instead.

Current plan is to replace the hoses, belts, water pump, have the radiator flushed out and repaired at a local shop and then put it all back together with new Toyota red antifreeze and distilled water. The thermostat is only a few months old as are the gaskets so I'll likely leave those as they are. Heading up to Specter later today to pick up a water pump and gasket. The rest of the stuff is already in the garage ready to go.

My plan, as I outlined in a post on Mud is to do an initial flush and drain myself, then drop the radiator off at the shop, come back home, replace the pump and as many of the hoses and belts as I can without the radiator, then button it all up when the radiator is finished. My backup plan(s) would be to have the shop do the whole job with me providing the parts. Worst case scenario is a replacement radiator being needed.

From what I can see in the shop manual, everything I plan on replacing is pretty straight-forward, start at the front, label the various belts and hoses as I take them off and just keep going til I reach the water pump. If anyone has any advice or opinions, I'm all ears.

I'm starting a big commercial job tomorrow that will keep me busy the rest of the week so hopefully I can get this all done either next Saturday or Monday.

I'm planning on completely removing the fan shroud based on some stories I've read here and on Mud, also hoping to have time to replace my leaking oil pan and valve cover gaskets since the Cruiser won't be operational for at least one whole day anyway.

Onward...

atlcruiser
05-16-2012, 01:14 AM
This might have been covered before but have you checked for any vac leaks?

Check that you have free passage of air in the vac line from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator. It can get clogged and the regulator will not work correctly.

Remove the cold start and jump it to a battery with jumpers.....make sure it is clicking (Working)

If/when it starts :) let it run a bit then stick your head in over the ICS. Have a buddy shut the truck off. You should hear a series of clicks form the ICS. that is the stepper motor retracting to the zero position. No ICs tough starts/poor idle.

Remove the main intake hose to the throttle body. Inspect for cracks. Ensure the flapper on the on the inside of the TB closes correctly.

John E
06-06-2012, 04:33 PM
Tools of the trade when working on an FJ...

103977


The start of the blacking out process...

103978

The typical drivers seat...

103979

Some of my cool new vacuum tubing...thanks McMaster-Carr.

103981

The whole thing...

103980

Hope the pics work...

Flagster
06-07-2012, 01:09 AM
I can finally sleep knowing there is actually a truck behind these 9 pages of talk :)

John E
06-07-2012, 03:37 PM
104092


More to come.

John E
06-14-2012, 02:49 PM
sorta.

Drove up to my new favorite shop yesterday and dropped off the FJ with Richard and the guys. They're going to rebuild the transfer case and try to find what's causing my intermittent but also obnoxiously regular "check engine" light issue.

Light comes on pretty much every time I'm on the freeway after about 5-10 miles, can drive all day on surface streets and nothing, Richard thinks it has to do with the O2 sensor. Hopefully he can confirm or deny that while he's got it in his possession.

I was originally thinking about taking it up to Georg at Valley Hybrids for the transfer case work and do a mini road trip at the same time but once I added up the costs of doing that and then added the possibility of needing to go back for any sort of warranty issues I decided to spend the money locally. I'm seriously considering a diesel engine and 5 speed manual swap sometime in the not too distant future and have consulted with Georg about that too so I still might be heading to his shop later.

No pics of the drop-off or the drive up to K&H Imports, sorry...;^)

Now it's time to get on the 2 lane roads to Santa Cruz on the motorcycle, my daughter is graduating from U.C. Santa Cruz on Saturday and I'm combining that event with a 5-6 day road trip on the bike trying to avoid freeways, my planned route has me on 2 lane paved and dirt roads for all but about 20 miles or so.

Onward...

John E
06-24-2012, 04:36 PM
Got a call from Richard while on my motorcycle trip, seems the head gasket is blown on the FJ.

So much for getting a few more thousand miles out of it before considering a diesel swap.

Had him go ahead and redo the gasket and the valves, hope to be picking it up by this coming Tuesday.

The transfer case work will have to wait until next month as the gasket job sorta blows my monthly Cruiser allowance for June.

Anyone have an idea what an 3F engine with over 200,000, new head gasket and valves might be worth when it's time to yank it and put a diesel engine in it's place? I'm sure I won't be able to get back the cost of what I've had done to it so far but I'd be curious as I've never priced a used 3F before.

Onward...

John E
07-01-2012, 03:54 PM
good news is, the FJ is gonna have a new head, valves and clean fuel injectors, the bad news is that it's gonna cost me a few bucks more than I hoped.

Turns out the head itself is cracked, so it's off to Specter Off-Road for a reconditioned one and while we're at it, lets pull the injectors and have them flow tested and cleaned. Hopefully this will put an end to the engine issues for a while.

As these things seem to work out, I grabbed a multi-day commercial for a company I can't name for a product I can't mention that should pay well enough to mostly cover the head work so I can still plan on getting the transfer case re-done as I had originally planned. That will be done later this month if all goes well. I'm also heading out of town for a few days on the DR so I won't be needing a rental car while the FJ gets finished up. A bit of joy in the midst of large repair bills and inconveniences.

Onward...

John E
07-06-2012, 02:50 PM
has arrived. Catching a local train in a little while to go pick up the Cruiser. New head gasket, new head, valves, etc. had the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested when the head was being rebuilt too.

Hopefully this will take care of the motor for awhile, I'm still planning on replacing the water pump and all the hoses and belts myself along with the radiator repair. The transfer case rebuild will have to wait til next month. Slowly but surely the FJ is getting rehabbed. I might be driving it up to Montana late this summer to work on a film for a couple of weeks, need it to be as reliable as possible for that obviously. Luckily the producer will be paying for the fuel...:)

Onward...

John E
07-06-2012, 09:44 PM
the FJ is back in my driveway. Newly rebuilt head, valves, oil and filter, gear oil in the transfer case, some new spark plugs, couple of new hoses, clean fuel injectors, etc.

Runs very well, unfortunately all that work didn't result in better fuel mileage.

Glad to have it back, now I can get to work on the cooling system and maybe some of the interior issues that I've been putting off.

Onward...

John E
07-14-2012, 06:41 PM
should it take me to completely service my front axle including the hubs, knuckles, etc?

I've got an email out to Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters for a complete kit including bearings.

Could I do it all in one day? I've got a pretty decent set of hand tools and an 1/2" electric impact driver as well as some air tools, ie, 3/8" ratchet and 1/2" impact wrench. Need to get a better, taller set of jackstands.

Anyone who's done it looking for something to do...:sombrero:???? I'll be happy to provide the food and drinks and the reciprocate the labor.

Planning a trip up to Yosemite at the end of the month, really want to try and get it done before I leave on 07/30.

Any hints, tips, advice, or warnings are appreciated.

I've already heard that I'll be going thru a lot of paper towels...

cruiseroutfit
07-17-2012, 01:57 AM
Thanks again for the order John.

Plan on a full day for the axle overhaul. Literally 6 hours disassembling and cleaning and just a couple hours to put it all back together. Have lots of paper towels ready to go, its messy :D

John E
07-17-2012, 05:54 AM
Doing business with you Kurt. Thanks for the super fast handling, already got the shipping notice from UPS.

I'll be picking up a couple rolls of cheap paper towels when the commercial I'm working on wraps.

burnoil
07-17-2012, 07:12 AM
A knuckle rebuild is not difficult, just time consuming. Plan on 6-8 hours and if you've never done it before, possibly a whole weekend if any gotchas pop up. It is very sloppy and messy cleaning out all of the old grease. Cruise over to ih8mud and there are a few very detailed how-to instructions floating around. Good stuff over there along with opinions. :)

irish_11
07-17-2012, 04:11 PM
There is a video series on Youtube showing you step by step the process for the tear down and rebuild. Also check out MUD there is a ton of info on there.

John E
07-17-2012, 04:51 PM
Appreciate the info.

Hoping to attack the grease demon this Sunday.

cruiseroutfit
07-19-2012, 01:15 AM
Fully agreed, a knuckle overhaul is a very good learning experience and well within the capabilities of the average Land Cruiser owner with a decent set of tools, some patience and lots of shop towels :D

John E
07-19-2012, 04:47 AM
and in it I find...



a whole bunch of seals, gaskets, o-rings, bearings and some other stuff.

Thanks for the speedy service Kurt.

And now a question, I've read a few accounts of rebuilding the knuckles and some of them refer to needing a tie rod end tool or a pickle fork.

Do I really have to remove the tie rod ends to rebuild the knuckle?

Probably an obvious thing but I haven't pulled anything apart yet and just don't quite know what to expect.

I bought a hub tool and I have a pretty complete shop of other tools and lots of paper towels and degreaser, need to pick up some grease.

Onward...

cruiseroutfit
07-19-2012, 04:53 AM
I do consider it necissary to remove the tie rod ends as you will use that hole to measure your knuckle bearing pre-load. One could do some math to sort out another point to measure from but its the easiest and the TRE's should pop out without too much trouble. The other you should grab if you don't have already is a spring scale gauge capable for measuring in lbs or kg's, you can score them at any fishing outlet or tool supply center.

John E
07-26-2012, 12:40 AM
I suppose I should get a scale somewhere other than a fishing shop if I want it to be accurate...;^)

I've postponed the axle rebuild job for a bit, got a couple of last minute commercial jobs and had a volunteer day of Ham radio work for a local 100 mile trail race this past weekend so I decided my time would be best used on the cooling system upgrades and repairs, I'll get to the axles when my son and I get back from Yosemite. We're heading up there next Monday to help another Boy scout with his Eagle project for a few days.

So it was off to Specter Off-Road for a new radiator and some other bits and bobs. I decided to replace all of the radiator hoses and the various fan belts along with the water pump. Just about finished as of a few minutes ago other than putting the grille and headlight trim pieces back on along with the splash/skid plate under the radiator.

What a lot of fun that was...:Wow1:

On the plus side, no broken bolts or other fasteners so the taps and dies mostly stayed in the box, I did have to clean up a few threads here and there but nothing serious. I took advantage of having most of the front end off and cut the fan shroud into two horizontal pieces, I also painted it and a few other parts while I was at it. I couldn't put the shiny new radiator next to a bunch of rusty hardware so I picked up some more stainless steel nuts and bolts too. Used all new hardware on the radiator brackets, spiffy new hose clamps all around and some other hardware got replaced and cleaned up on the wire wheel as I went along.

Couple of things I discovered, the studs holding the water pump in are a lot easier to work with if you use the single mounting bolt to hold the pump in place and then use 2 nuts to drive the studs into place. It's also a lot easier to just pull the battery tray and the AC drier and get them outta the way. I also pulled the idler pulleys off which gave me a lot more room to get to the pump and the small hose clamps that are kinda deep in there.

Like an idiot I forgot to mark the routing of the belts when I was taking the old ones off so I had to check a few references to make sure I had them back in the right place. Nice thing about doing this stuff yourself is that your not paying some other guy to take their time and get things done correctly. My only problem is when I need the FJ to be up and running for a last minute job, I have to be pretty careful about anything that's gonna turn into a multi day job or else I end up needing to rent another vehicle. That's why the planned paint job is gonna be fun.

Everything went back together pretty quickly, I got it filled with new OEM coolant and distilled water, no obvious leaks, the heater seems to be working and it didn't overheat after idling for about 30 minutes. Gonna let it cool off and then pull the fan back off and reinstall the newly cut and painted shroud, reassemble the grille, check for leaks and barring any of those, I'm gonna call this a success.

Onward...

John E
07-27-2012, 03:34 PM
yes, it's all back together and after a few miles of driving around town there are no leaks to be seen but no, it's not quite right either.

I'll be posting/asking this on the Mud forum but want to run it by you guys as well.

I triple checked all the clearances on the FJ when I re-installed the fan and the fan shroud, nothing is out of place, hitting anything else, rubbing or out of whack that I can see or hear when it's idling or moving along but...every time I come to a stop and then pull away there's a very short metallic sounding rattle for a split second or so. It's not there when I rev it up at idle in neutral or in Park, it only occurs when I'm actually moving and of course it didn't exist before I tore into the cooling system.

I'm a bit flummoxed, I can't pop the hood and listen for it cause it's not there unless I'm moving. Everything I imagine it might be, loose fan, loose fan clutch, loose shroud seems to me would get either louder or would continue to happen while I'm accelerating. Does that make any sense?

I replaced all of the radiator hoses, top and bottom, all 3 fan belts, installed a new Aisin water pump and gasket, used all new hose clamps, new radiator and cap, I cut the fan shroud in half horizontally as recommended and described by a lot of guys on the Mud forum and re-installed it, all of the bolt holes lined up, the shroud isn't touching the fan or any of the belts.

Any ideas?


Onward...

John E
07-27-2012, 03:39 PM
I'm also looking for recommendations for a roof rack to fit the FJ. Still debating how long I want it to be.

I'm planning on making an awning to attach to the rack but I don't think the length of the rack will really come into play.

Steel, aluminum...? Brands...?

I've de-chromed the rain gutters and will be repairing the short length of one that got a little bent and I'm also going to repaint the roof before I install the rack. I'm also thinking about installing a 4" diameter roof top solar powered vent and might be putting a single Ham radio dual band antenna up there as well so I'll need to accommodate those plans with the rack. No plans for a roof top tent.

Onward...

John E
08-04-2012, 05:26 PM
end that is. I found what was causing the noise. It seems that while re-installing the fan shroud I managed to bend it just a bit, just enough that upon acceleration the fan would graze it. I didn't notice the bend earlier, discovered it while poking around under the hood a couple days ago in Yosemite.

The FJ handled the trip to Yosemite and even more importantly, the trip back home with no issues whatsoever. This has been the longest trip I've driven it so far and frankly I was worried about the temperatures we'd encounter driving thru the Cemtral Valley of CA this time of year. The temp gauge never moved past normal even with some ambient temps of over 100 degrees for a couple hundred miles. I added a pint of "water wetter" solution to the radiator before we left to supplement the coolant and distilled water. I've had good luck using it on motorcycles in the past and it seems to help the FJ as well. Not a single leak or problem with any of the work that was done prior to the trip. Very happy with that, now about that drivers seat...

Onward...


P.S. if anyone goes camping at Bridalveil Creek campground in the next 10 years or so, you can thank our little group of Boy Scouts for the spiffy new campfire rings. We tore out and replaced 80 of them this past week for an Eagle Scout project.

huntsonora
08-04-2012, 05:52 PM
end that is. I found what was causing the noise. It seems that while re-installing the fan shroud I managed to bend it just a bit, just enough that upon acceleration the fan would graze it. I didn't notice the bend earlier, discovered it while poking around under the hood a couple days ago in Yosemite.

The FJ handled the trip to Yosemite and even more importantly, the trip back home with no issues whatsoever. This has been the longest trip I've driven it so far and frankly I was worried about the temperatures we'd encounter driving thru the Cemtral Valley of CA this time of year. The temp gauge never moved past normal even with some ambient temps of over 100 degrees for a couple hundred miles. I added a pint of "water wetter" solution to the radiator before we left to supplement the coolant and distilled water. I've had good luck using it on motorcycles in the past and it seems to help the FJ as well. Not a single leak or problem with any of the work that was done prior to the trip. Very happy with that, now about that drivers seat...

Onward...


P.S. if anyone goes camping at Bridalveil Creek campground in the next 10 years or so, you can thank our little group of Boy Scouts for the spiffy new campfire rings. We tore out and replaced 80 of them this past week for an Eagle Scout project.

Glad that's what it was. I had a similar issue on an 87 suburban I had and it was the same thing

NM-Frontier
08-06-2012, 02:58 PM
Glad to hear you had a trouble free trip after all that hard work! Keep it up, but I do think we'r due for a picture or two of you Cruiser!

John E
08-06-2012, 03:04 PM
I'm planning on taking a few snaps when I tear into the axles. Hopefully this coming weekend. If I get anywhere with my homemade awning ideas, I'll post a few pics of that as well.

Speaking of which, I'm thinking it might be a good time to have the front brake rotors turned since they have to come out anyway.

I replace the pads and installed stainless brake lines a few months ago without turning them, would it hurt to have it done now and use the old pads or should I replace the pads again?

Any thoughts...?


Onward...

P.S. I found a cheap fishing scale on eBay, should be here in the next couple of days, whopping $5.99 including shipping. Tried to find a neat old one yesterday at the local monthly swap meet but was unsuccessful.

NM-Frontier
08-07-2012, 03:15 PM
Turning the rotors would be a good idea since you got it all apart. I did every thing I could when I did mine, every seal bearing hose or part that could be done I did.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3CI4mmEv6A Check out this if you haven't yet, its very handy. Good luck have fun!

John E
09-24-2012, 11:25 PM
the axle rebuild is still on hold. Just haven't gotten around to it due to work, really hot weather, etc.

I did get the valves readjusted last week up at K&H. Little out of spec but not too bad.

I've decided to replace the wheels with a set of 16" steelies. Of course that means new tires as well.

Found a local place that buys and sells take-off wheels that has stock Toyota wheels on hand that originally came of an early 2000's Tundra. They're the correct lug spacing, according to some guys over at Mud I'll need to check the back spacing and may need to add some spacers.

Will be getting those after the knuckle rebuild.

In the meantime, I had the 2 rear cargo side windows and the small fixed side windows tinted a couple of days ago. Looks nice and it should help with keeping my work gear a little cooler and a little less exposed. Will be getting the tailgate and rear passenger windows done after some repair work to the electrical. Trying to get the rear defroster and the window motors working properly again first.

Onward...

John E
10-24-2012, 04:40 AM
since I've updated this saga.

Let's see, since the last installment I've purchased a used set of Yakima crossbars and some gutter mounts, built a removable awning out of EMT/conduit and some cool fittings that allow me to attach it to the rack and break down into a relatively small package.

I tried it out on a recent trip out to the Valley of Fire for a commercial. Unfortunately it was a "top secret" job and I wasn't able to take any photos, will get some and show it off when I get another chance.

I also had the drivers seat re-upholstered today, had it redone in plain brown fabric and vinyl in the same configuration as the stock seat by a highly recommended local shop for $145. I'm amazed at how much higher I'm sitting now and how much I was tilted towards the door due to the old worn out foam.

Also started doing some repair and minor rust removal on the rain gutters in anticipation of a paint job on the roof. Going to do it myself in a satin white Rustoleum.

Knuckle rebuild, transfer case rebuild, steel wheels, tires, and a new windshield are in the works.

Onward...

John E
10-27-2012, 10:30 PM
the newly recovered seat is a joy, I hadn't really realized how bad my old one was until I had it redone. No more leaning against the drivers door, no more pain in the back after a long drive. Wish I'd had it done months ago.

Started prepping the roof for painting, lots of sanding and some new rain gutter sealant to fix some bad spots on the gutters. I picked up a tube of polyurethane sealant from OSH after reading several recommendations for it instead of the more common silicone based sealants.

It's very thick, almost wouldn't come out of the tube using a regular caulking gun and it takes several days to cure but overall seems to be working very well. I suppose I'll confirm that after a good rainstorm. Can't be any worse than the nearly 25 year old stuff that I removed.

Hope to finish the sanding today and then I'll put some primer on with the real paint going on tomorrow. I'm going to use a roller and some minimally thinned Rustoleum paint in white satin. I know, I know, sounds like blasphemy to use a paint roller on a truck but I've read several accounts of how it can be done well and I've done a decent amount of painting so I figured it's worth a try. I'll also be adding some "Penetrol" to the top paint to smooth out any roller/brush marks. Worst case, I'll resand it and take it to a local body shop for a spray job. I've come to realize that so long as I don't go completely nuts, there's really nothing bad that I can do to the Cruiser. It's almost 25 years old, the paint on it looks like crap due to the extremely poorly done job by a previous owner. The worst I can do is leave it looking as bad as it was and I think I can do much better than that.

Onward...

John E
10-29-2012, 01:03 AM
I've finished sanding and have applied 2 coats of Rustoleum white primer to the roof. Still have to remove what remains of an old cell phone antenna that was installed and since I'm having the windshield replaced I've left a strip of old paint near the top of the shield that will have to be sanded.

Other than that, it's looking ok, I'm using the Rustoleum with an ounce of mineral spirits added to a quart of paint, thins it down just a bit and seems to help with roller and brush marks a bit. I'll be doing at least one more quick and light sanding and maybe one more coat of primer before the real paint goes on. I'll be using more Rustoleum in basic satin white with a bit of spirits and some Penetrol added to help even more with roller and brush marks.

Interestingly enough, there's a video on the Portal home page that shows a guy painting his Defender with the same roller technique. I disagree with some of his conclusions in regards to equipment, I'm using all foam rollers and he used a fur type for his base coat and a foam for his top coat. If the rest of the body on the Cruiser ends up as nice as the roof, I'll be a happy guy. The main part of the body will be getting a coat of Rustoleum Satin Green.

There was an interesting comment from a guy on Facebook that claimed the Defender was "ruined" due to the roller paint job. I'm sure he'd think the same about my Cruiser. I'm with the guy who owns the Defender, this is mainly a work and travel vehicle for me, not a show car. I'd rather spend a thousand bucks on fuel and food than on a nice shiny paint job. Obviously I don't want it to look like a piece of crap, that's why I'm using a lot of sandpaper and multiple coats of paint. I'd love to see what Mr. Facebook would think about the truck bed liner I used to cover the bottom 1/4 of the Cruiser...;^)

Onward...

John E
11-03-2012, 07:38 AM
the old windshield is gone...


Ok, bad pun.

But my new windshield looks great and I can in fact see out of it much better.

I took the FJ to a local shop that came highly recommended by a guy on Mud. Economy Auto Glass in Van Nuys,CA.

Dirk, the owner, did a great job, he removed the od one and we touched up the fairly small bits of rust that had accumulated under the original weatherstripping seal. Went with a solid black rubber seal instead of the OEM chrome strip type of seal and locking strip. Took less than 2 hours from start to finish and even though Dirk says he really doesn't like doing this particular replacement I have to recommend him and his shop for anyone in SoCal that needs a new windshield. He also told me that he can replace the chrome strips and seals on the rear cabin windows if I can source the all-rubber type seals. There's a thread on Mud that deals with blacking out a Cruiser with all rubber glass seals, planning on sourcing some the material that got recommended and have the rest of my windows blacked out next month.

Still planning a couple more small jobs before I head back to the Valley of Fire for a couple of days next week.

Onward...

nfranco
02-12-2013, 04:24 AM
Hi John,
If you don't mind, what is the name of the shop that you got your Tundra wheels from?
What do you do in the industry? I was talking to Marv at SOR and he mentioned that he's noticed a lot of camera people, me included, drive a 60/62.
Thanks,
nick

John E
02-12-2013, 03:47 PM
ended up coming from a fellow Expo member.

I placed a want ad in the marketplace forum and got em for a very good price. Still need to get them powder coated and decide what tires to go with.

You can also get them from a local shop that specializes in selling "take offs". Place is called Capital Wheels, they're in Gardena. Cheapest place I could find that sells the 16" steel wheels that actually had them in stock. I'm going to be buying a spare from them once I switch over my old wheels.

I work as a Set Medic, mostly on commercials and the occasional feature film and yeah, I see a few FJ's on set. Couple of them are repaired at K&H up in Canoga Park which is the same shop I use. I get a lot of very positive comments about my FJ when I'm at work, they really are a classic design and apparently on a lot of people's "wish lists".

Onward...

nfranco
02-12-2013, 04:03 PM
Cool,thanks for the info and thank you for keeping us safe.

John E
03-29-2013, 06:25 PM
put my other plans on hold to get the transfer case rebuilt and hopefully get the cold starting issue dealt with once and for all. Took the FJ to K&H Imports on Monday, should be picking it up later today.

Richard tells me the output shaft was in horrible condition so they repaired it along with the normal bearings and seals. I also had him do the "galley oil plug" modification and asked to have all of the U joints replaced as needed.

They found the fuel dampner screw was completely gone so that's been replaced, still some issues with cold starting but I have confidence in him and the guys.

Looking forward to getting it back although I have to admit the gas mileage I've been getting on my rental has been a nice change.

Onward...

Fenrir
04-07-2013, 02:03 AM
Im thinking of getting a 62 and appreciate you sharing your experiences. Helps put the whole in perspective. I hate to ask personal financial questions, but what do you think your average monthly cost of ownership (minus fuel) have been?

John E
04-07-2013, 02:36 AM
Good question. I haven't really kept track to be honest.

Let me do a quick rundown here.

Purchase price was $3200

Repairs to get it to pass the smog test were about $700

Replaced the head and valves $1500

Oil changes and relatively minor work done by me $350 or so

Transfer case rebuild, new distributor and miscellaneous mechanicals $1400

That's about it so far. I'm not including the roof rack, fuel cans, new/used wheels and tires and other stuff because none of it was needed, just things I wanted to do.

So we're looking at about what, $7200 and change over the last year or so. That's including the purchase price of course. Given that it sold new for over $20,000 or so I've been told I don't think that's too outrageous.

As I've mentioned in this thread, I use the FJ for both personal as well as for work purposes so I'm able to write off some of my ongoing expenses. I've also gotten a few jobs because I had it to use on set. It's also been in one commercial and almost been in a couple more. If I can ever get it used as what's known as a "picture car" a good chunk of those repair costs will be paid by a production company. I keep trying, it'll happen eventually.

Onward...

John E
04-08-2013, 02:58 PM
I completely forgot about installing a new radiator, belts, hoses, and water pump so I need to add those to my expenses as well. I've also owned the Cruiser longer than I realized. It'll be 2 years this August since I got it registered so that would make my average monthly repairs/maintenance costs a bit less. The cooling system upgrade cost around $700.

And to add a bit more to my saga at this moment I'm waiting for a tow truck to take the Cruiser back up to K&H. It died on the freeway last Friday, first time it's stranded me.

Had it towed home and worked on it for a while on Saturday, it's got spark, fuel is flowing but there's something wrong with either the TPS or the cold start injector or both. With the help of fellow Expo'r "Rallyroo" I was able to get it started intermittently but it would stop running just as intermittently. We messed around with it for a few hours, discovered it would start and run with both the TPS and the injector unplugged at times but no consistency so today it's off to the shop.

Yesterday I took advantage of it being parked and finished up my Ham radio installation. Mounted a Yaesu 7800 chassis in the center console, the remote head on my iPad mount along with an antenna on the lift gate. Wired it directly to the battery with fuses on both sides under the hood and I also installed a remote speaker attached to a homemade bracket that is mounted above the drivers side seat belt bolt. Looks pretty good. I need to do a little bit of finishing work on the wiring but it's operational and assuming I get the engine sorted out, I'll be heading out to Baker CA on Friday morning to volunteer at the Baker to Vegas Relay race.


Onward...

scootr29
04-09-2013, 12:42 AM
This build is like a Playboy magazine that has had all the pictures torn out.........too many words not enough pictures......

Flagster
04-09-2013, 01:29 PM
This build is like a Playboy magazine that has had all the pictures torn out.........too many words not enough pictures......

I have been complaining from the beginning... for all I know those couple pics are of his neighbor's 62:)

John E
04-09-2013, 07:16 PM
I posted a good shot of the most essential tools needed to work on an old Cruiser many, months ago...;^)

If its up and running I promise to get a couple of shots of in action this weekend at the relay race including my home assembled roof rack and rack mounted sun shade.

In the meantime, it's still at the shop, hoping for good news later today.

Onward...

John E
04-12-2013, 02:41 PM
and then I'm on the road.

Turned out the distributor that was installed earlier was defective, replaced it under warranty and all is well again.

Some last minute packing to finish and then it's off to Las Vegas for the Baker 2 Vegas relay race.

Pics when I get back!!!

Onward...

Rallyroo
04-13-2013, 05:56 AM
Turned out the distributor that was installed earlier was defective, replaced it under warranty and all is well again.

Some last minute packing to finish and then it's off to Las Vegas for the Baker 2 Vegas relay race.

Seriously? All this time it was a defective distributor? I guess that makes sense since it's the last thing that got installed and that's when the intermittent problems started. Glad they/you figured it out.

I guess that means you can start on your axles next weekend.

John E
04-14-2013, 09:43 PM
Yep, one defective part can ruin your whole day. But there's a definite upside as you know Joey. The diagnostics we tried will undoubtedly pay off in the future.

As for the axles, I'm gonna try it again this Saturday, the 13th if you or anyone else is available and willing I'd sure appreciate the help.

I'll be posting a couple of pics I took at the race when I get the film back from the lab.

frgtwn
04-14-2013, 11:13 PM
Would you please explain the meanings of those two words?

John E
04-15-2013, 12:15 AM
What can I say? I'm a traditionalist, I shoot with a Leica 35mm film camera and have the negatives scanned. Best of both worlds.

Which reminds me, I need to grab a shot of my iPad mount and Ham radio setup, i wonder how many FJ62's are running an iPad with Bluetooth GPS ?

Onward...

scootr29
04-15-2013, 01:03 AM
What can I say? I'm a traditionalist, I shoot with a Leica 35mm film camera and have the negatives scanned. Best of both worlds.

Which reminds me, I need to grab a shot of my iPad mount and Ham radio setup, i wonder how many FJ62's are running an iPad with Bluetooth GPS ?

Onward...

I would say a traditionalist would have paper maps and not a Bluetooth, GPS and an iPad....:elkgrin:

John E
04-15-2013, 05:30 AM
I like to keep people guessing...;^)

Same reason I shoot Glocks and a Lee Enfield Jungle carbine.

Best of two worlds.

Onward...

John E
08-13-2013, 11:04 PM
it's been awhile since I updated this.

Let's see, I'm in the midst of a trans fluid change. Literally, I'm letting the fluid drain while I'm typing this.

Replaced the differential cover gasket and gear oil last week, painted the cover while I had it off.

Had some exhaust issues which ended up with a new muffler and 2 new catalytic converters, passed smog!

Think I need a new fuel pressure regulator, got a quote from a dealer for a new one, should have it installed next week.

Gonna add a 3rd cross bar to my hybrid Yakima/Harbor Freight roof rack.

Gotta find the short in the power leads for my Ham radio setup, keep blowing fuses.

Gonna replace the carpet in the cargo area after I lay down some sound proofing.

Have some Spydertrak wheel spacers on the way so I can finally put the 16" steel wheels and some new tires on.

That's about it for now, getting ready for some volunteer events coming up including 2 offroad rallies, first one is in Gorman CA and then in October its off to Prescott, AZ for another rally and some house hunting.

Onward...

Rallyroo
08-14-2013, 05:04 AM
Had some exhaust issues which ended up with a new muffler and 2 new catalytic converters, passed smog!

That's good to hear that your Cruiser passed smog after issues last time around.

John E
08-14-2013, 03:38 PM
Getting it to pass is always gonna be a crap shoot I think.

In the meantime, I completely forgot a couple of other things that have been done to the Cruiser.

With the help of several Expo and Mud folks we did a pretty complete front axle rebuild a few months ago.

Thanks again to Rallyroo, Manuchao, and Mudcat.

I've also started obtaining the parts to do a mild lift. Some Ironman springs from Marks Offroad, a set of "Tri shackles" from SOR and new U bolts and other parts from Camel 4x4. Hope to get everything together by early next month, then it's liftoff time. Or lifton time I guess.

I also picked up a cool set of LED lights to install in the rear hatch, they'll be pointing down onto the tailgate once they're installed. Thanks to Manuchao for the lead on the LED.

I added the 3rd crossbar to the rack last night, still need a couple more clamps to finish it off.

Onward...

mattafact
01-13-2014, 05:21 PM
Any updates?

Timothynaustin
01-15-2014, 08:09 PM
Any updates?

I really need photo`s having withdrawel symptoms Drooling over write up , but need pics Pls Pls Pretty pls :-) :-) :-)

Cheers Mate

John E
04-22-2014, 03:02 AM
No pics right now but I'm in the midst of installing some pretty cool tailgate storage hatches and I'll snap a few tomorrow.

Saw an example posted by "Doug720" on Mud (he's here on Expo as well) and knew I had to try and copy his excellent idea.

In a nutshell. 2 marine hatches that fit into the top ends of the tailgate and a piece of aluminum diamond plate that reinforces the middle of the gate. The pictures will show it better than I can explain it.

I got the hatches and the diamond plate from sources recommended by Doug and he was kind enough to let me come to his home and inspect his install in person, thanks again Doug!

Still need to pick up some stainless steel fasteners, will be heading to the hardware store after I finish cutting out the hole for the second hatch.

On a non-related note, I'm going to be posting an ad in the classifieds for my set of 16" steelies and tires, I've decided to stick with the stock 15" wheels, need to get the others sold to pay for some other goodies.

And finally, I've been in touch with Georg at Valley Hybrids in Stockton, CA about getting an H55 installed later this year. Need to finalize the details and hopefully coordinate the trip to his shop with another trip I'll be taking this summer. If it all works out, I'll be cruising with a 5 speed by August.

Onward...