Bajataco's Baja trip report - Dec. 05

[BajaTaco]

Yes, yet another Baja trip thread. Man, that place is pretty popular these days! :D


Sharon and I had a fun trip that was very loosely structured. About the only for-sure thing we made happen was meeting the Expeditions West group down in Bahia de Los Angeles for a couple nights of camping. That was a blast and it was really fun to hang out with you guys!

During the trip down and back, I tried quite a lot to raise BajaXplorer on the radio, and also Ursidae69, Goodtimes, and Wolfsoul. Who knows where the former was, but I ended up finally contacting him "on the radio" as I pulled right up to his truck out in the middle of nowhere, completely by chance. It was pretty funny. I guess the latter group were totally geeking out in their kayaks on on the windless, perfect weather days in the bays - so no wonder they never heard me. Chuck, you need to get a handheld to carry in your kayak :p

For Sharon and I, despite our relaxed itinerary, going that far south in only a week was really too much driving for her. I was okay with it of course, but usually when she and I do a trip alone, we don't like to rush. Having said that, this was waaay too much driving. On the way back north, I had to practically force myself, to get up off the beach towel, put my shirt and shoes on, and pack the truck to leave. I definitely didn't want to go. I wish we were still down there. Baja is an awesome place :bowdown:

So anyway, here is a little trip report and gallery I put together

BAJA 2005 (http://www.bajataco.com/baja05/baja05.html)

http://bajataco.com/baja05/L_baja0508.jpg

[Life_in_4Lo]

Nice writeup, it looks beautiful there.
Seeing that picture of Pasquale is very calming, i can almost hear him strumming the strings...

[DaktariEd]

Wow, that sunset photo is awesome! :bowdown:
I am soooo envious!
I want to go!
I want to go!
:D
Ed

[BajaTaco]

Ahhh, so you have heard him play. Man, I love that guys music.

[BajaTaco]

Ed, just make it happen! GO!! :D

[Ursidae69]

Damn Chris, excellent writeup and very nice photos. I now have something to live up to when I write my trip report this week. :bowdown:

This photo of the Harris Hawks is magazine quality. Very nice amigo. :arabia:

http://bajataco.com/baja05/L_baja0553.jpg

[BajaTaco]

Thanks Chuck. Those hawks were sooo cool. I slowed the truck down, stopped and turned off the engine. They didn't fly away but you could tell they were a little nervous and were maybe contemplating it. I leaned to the window a bit and started making funny little "kissing" and soft squealing noises. They were INTO it! LOL... they started bobbing their heads and listening and watching. I spoke softly and they seemed to like all of the sounds. They began to relax, and then even took their eyes off of me to preen a bit and look around. When we got going again, they would fly from Cardon to Cardon ahead of the truck and stayed with us for a little while.

[The BN Guy]

Good story and pix. I hope to get out and do some sort of trip soon. Maybe to Big Bend. Hope the scenery is as pretty as where you guys went.

[Ursidae69]

Awesome story on the hawks! I got a photo of a Harris Hawk in 2004 in Baja, but as you can see it isn't near as good as yours! You have that knack for getting objects in the foreground to give a great depth of field. Makes for a much more pleasing image.

Yup... I'm not getting much work done today.... :o

[Life_in_4Lo]

Ahhh, so you have heard him play. Man, I love that guys music.

Yeah it's nice around the campfire after wheeling, he is the Dude!

Great pics and writeup Chris!

[Hltoppr]

I'm really stiked that ya'll had good weather. The previous two years in December have been windy and cold!

Or maybe it's just 'cuz I was in Baja!

-H-

[Brian McVickers]

That looks like you guys had tons of fun and a relaxing trip!
I love the Hammerhead Skull, that is cool!!
Great Pics
That's it, I'm going -- It's like the Caribbean but only 5 hours away!:bowdown:

[BajaTaco]

Thanks guys! Cool pic chuck :ylsmoke:

Actually - that is a stingray carcass. They have nasty little teeth, don't they? They also have a serious, venemous "blade" (http://www.emedicine.com/emerg/topic556.htm) on their tail, which I have had the unfortunate experience of getting nailed by ... TWICE. Definitely one of the most painful, if not THE most painful things I have ever experienced. :eek:

[datrupr]

Chris, great report, and just amazing photos! This is why BajaTaco.com is one of my all time favorite sites. Keep it up, and we can be friends again after the jealousy subsides:hehe: . I am having a big time Mexico jones. I think I am going to have to get down there in either Feb. or March.

Ok, jealousy has subsided:D

[Brian McVickers]

Ouch, Twice!
When I lived in Florida eveyone used to joke about doing the Stingray Shuffle!

[BajaTaco]

...we can be friends again after the jealousy subsides:hehe: .

:xxrotflma Thanks Aaron :ylsmoke:


Yea, the stingray shuffle...

...didn't work for ME! Oh well. It taught me respect anyway.

[Ursidae69]

Thanks guys! Cool pic chuck :ylsmoke:

Actually - that is a stingray carcass. They have nasty little teeth, don't they? They also have a serious, venemous "blade" (http://www.emedicine.com/emerg/topic556.htm) on their tail, which I have had the unfortunate experience of getting nailed by ... TWICE. Definitely one of the most painful, if not THE most painful things I have ever experienced. :eek:

That looked like a hammerhead to me too, I know that spp comes into the Sea of Cortez. Look at the picture of this hammerhead. I've fed the stingrays at Sea World and they assured me they wouldn't bite and had flat teeth or I wouldn't have stuck my hand anywhere near their mouth! :eatchicke

[BajaTaco]

LOL! :xxrotflma Damn, I went back and looked at the pic and you guys are right. That is a hammerhead. I am just a dumbass sometimes :p I don't know if you guys have ever seen stingrays drying on a line, but they look similar and that is what I had stuck in my head when I said "stingray carcass". Sorry about that :o

[goodtimes]

Very nice d00d! We stopped briefly at "mouse camp" to stretch our legs and let cherokee go pee. Here's hoping she didn't pee where you set up. :P

Sounds like everyone had a great trip, no matter which trip they were on!

[kcowyo]

Nice work Captain! :clapsmile :clapsmile

Glad to see your family, truck, liver and senses all survived another trip down south. Vince looked like he was on his game and Pasquale, well he is the Dude, isn't he?

Great pics of some beautiful areas, cool people and trick rigs! :bowdown: :bowdown:

[BajaTaco]

Thanks guys :)

Liver?? Oh man... I guess I over-emphasize my appeciation for good beers and tequilas a little bit, but I consider them a fun part of a trip too (at camp, not on the trail). I try to keep the consumption moderate though. Hopefully my liver sees it that way too :p

[Scenic WonderRunner]

Thanks Chris for sharing!

GREAT PICS!

The more I see everyone's Baja pics......the more I want to go! In fact....I'm working right now on getting a new passport. My old one expired long ago...... it does have some very Kewl Europe, Australia, Tahiti, Fiji and a few other stamps on it though! Since they are going to require it in the future for the America's, I thought I would get ahead of the curve. I will catch up with you guys down there one of these days!

[Desertdude]

Chris that is a fine write up! Thanks for all the kind words and sweet photos - you have a great eye for capturing what is truly there :sunny:

Our paths crossing in Baja was a milagro - Seeing you and Sharon driving towards us on Mex 1 while we were parked on a two track road waiting for the others. Pure Baja magic...

It was great hanging out with you two at the cove in Bahia De Los Angeles. I learned how not to make a white mans fire that night :campfire: , thanks for that :wavey:

Thanks you guys for appreciating the music - Baja song(s) coming soon

Baja always on my mind...

[articulate]

Three pages of posts in less than a day. This makes Chris, like, totally the most popular dude on this website.

!Viva Baja!

<---side note: with all of these threads about Mexico, you'd think we'd have a way to make upside down ! and ?

Mark

[brittan]

Chirs...just shared your pics with Darcy...her comment "Do you feel left out?" My response "Duh!" I didn't have time to join any 05 trips. Looked like a lot of fun though. Maybe next year.
Thanks for sharing.

[jeffryscott]

niiiiiice. What a great report and fantastic photos.

This question has probably been asked and answered, but, what maps/guidebooks are you using, or were using, before learning your way around?

I've camped in San Felipe before and took some boats up north a bit to ancient clam beds that have died out since the Colorado has been dammed and quit flooding the Sea of Cortez, bring in all the sediment - shells stretching for miles. Untold numbers of shells. Amazing. (All the white/sand color in the picture as far as the eye can see are shells. Took 45-minutes walking in shoe-sucking silt almost knee deep to get to.)

Again, great report Chris.

Take care,

Jeff

[Ursidae69]

Jeff, one of the trips I'd like to do in the future will be to put in with a kayak in the Colorado River south of Mexicali, then follow it out to the Sea of Cortez and down to San Felipe. :victory: When I do that trip, I'll be asking more details about these clam beds. Looks really interesting.

Regarding guidebooks, I have maybe a dozen Baja books and most are not useful to me. The main one that I like is the Baja Almanac (http://www.baja-almanac.com/), you'll need one of those. I have a couple diving (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000BTLVM6/sr=1-14/qid=1137166073/ref=sr_1_14/103-9692074-3751832?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance)/fishing books I use to find good snorkelling spots and to ID fish and I have a really good herpetology text (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0520224175/sr=1-15/qid=1137166073/ref=sr_1_15/103-9692074-3751832?%5Fencoding=UTF8) for Baja take with me. There is a really good Baja plant book (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0960314415/ref=pd_bxgy_img_b/103-9692074-3751832?%5Fencoding=UTF8) I like too. I also use the internet for a lot of my research, there are some great websites out there with tons of info like this one (http://www.vivabaja.com/). There are a couple Baja related forums and I prefer this one (http://forums.bajanomad.com/). Hope that helps. :D

[BajaTaco]

Thanks everyone! :o All of you who have commented in this thread, but weren't with us, I really wish we could have met you down in Baja too. Brittan, we will just have to make a point of kidnapping you this year and taking you on a "forced" drive in 4WD with us, somewhere really cool. :p

Jeff, your story about the clam beds is intriquing. I think you went on an adventure that not too many people ever get to see.

To answer the question regarding maps/guidebooks, I will say that there are a wide variety of books on Baja these days, and you could probably spend a substantial amount on building a library. There is a lot of stuff that is likely very good that I haven't seen or read. There are a couple of books that we used to get us oriented with Baja that worked really well. One is the Baja Adventure Guide (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer-reviews/0899972314/ref=cm_cr_dp_2_1/103-9547870-3040610?%5Fencoding=UTF8&customer-reviews.sort%5Fby=-SubmissionDate&n=283155) by Walt Peterson. Now this book has been around for a long time, and could probably use some fresh content, but I think it is a good book regardless. It has street level maps of the major towns, which is a really nice thing to have when you are trying to find stuff in town. There is a ton of great stuff in that book to go and see, and lots of good info to get you familiar with the peninsula. If you are into fishing, speardiving, beach camping, and/or seafood, another great book to have to learn about the fish populations and coastal land as well as off-shore descriptions is the Baja Catch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0929637054/qid=1137165300/sr=1-10/ref=sr_1_10/103-9547870-3040610?s=books&v=glance&n=283155) by Gene Kira & Neil Kelly. Again, this book is probably getting a little on the outdated side, but I still think it is a great resource and I'm not aware of any alternatives that are as specific as this book. There was also a book that has long been out of print, and I only found it down in southern Baja. I believe the authors (a couple) live in Mulege. It is a 4x4 adventure guide - a small, but interesting book with some good off-roading trips. We were too cheap and didn't buy it, but managed to glean some info from it. I have no idea if you can still find any copies of it but it is worth checking out. There is a motorcycle GPS guide book (http://www.bajagpsguide.com/gps_guide_vol1/about.php) by Lizard Lady, (Hltoppr, listen up!) that looks really cool, but I haven't seen/used it myself. If you have Fugawi GPS software for Baja moving maps on a laptop, there is a CD available with all of these routes on it. And lastly, if you like hot springs, there is Hot Springs of the Southwest (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1890880051/sr=1-7/qid=1137167719/ref=sr_1_7/103-9547870-3040610?%5Fencoding=UTF8) which has some of the Baja springs in it. I wouldn't buy the book just for those springs though, so maybe check to see if the library has it if that is all you will be using it for.

MAPS. Really the only "must-have" maps come in a single-bound publication called the Baja Almanac (http://www.baja-almanac.com/?q=). This has topographic maps (100 meter contour intervals) of the entire peninsula. I have the old version as well as the new. The old version is kind of cool because it split North and South (Norte y Sur) into two separate books. The new version is cool because it is color. However, there is a fair margin of error on the map data, so you have to keep that in mind. But this is really indispensable as a reference if you plan to go off the pavement and main roads.

One of the best things you can do prior to a trip is visit the various Baja forums to get current news and reports from people who are either living or traveling down there. It can be a lot of work to fish through all of the threads and posts, but often well worth it. Many good adventures can be found on the forums that aren't mentioned in the guide books.

[kcowyo]

Thanks guys :)

Liver?? Oh man... I guess I over-emphasize my appeciation for good beers and tequilas a little bit, but I consider them a fun part of a trip too (at camp, not on the trail). I try to keep the consumption moderate though. Hopefully my liver sees it that way too :p

Oh, hey! - No one's judging here. If I had a week to sit on a beach in paradise with the wife, in complete solitude, I would definitely be tipping a few as well.

No need to apologize for having a taste for the finer things in life. That's what makes the Monday - Friday grind worth it, right? :beer:

[blupaddler]

Chris,

Great pics! :clapsmile

It was great to run into you guys! So, it sounds like you guys made it to the market for the "fresh" tortillas. They were very yummy! We opened the bag up there, while we were waiting for Vince.

I also had no idea you enjoyed Guiness. An excellent choice!!!

:beer:

[BajaTaco]

Thanks KC and Robb

LOL! Yea, we had that tortilla bag open before I could even get the truck in reverse!

Actually, Sharon is the big Guinness fan :elkgrin: I like 'em too, but I prefer a little "sweeter". I'm a sucker for oatmeal stouts, porters and nut browns, among others.

(shhhh.. my liver might hear me! :xxrotflma )

[jeffryscott]

Chuck and Chris, thanks for the information on the books. I'll definitely pick up a copy of the Baja Almanac and go from there.

A few years ago for work I did a story on the lower Colorado River below the border and basically what is left (or isn't) of it. Travelled around a great deal on the Sonoran side, then went to San Felipe.

It was before I had a GPS, so I'm not sure where I camped on the eastern side of the Colorado near the Cienega de Santa Clara, but it was a great flat plain that once held water. About 20-feet below was the river. At night, the tidal bore came in - the great rush of water from the sea coming up the river as the tide came in- and it roared. I shined my spotlight on it and when all was said and done, the water was inches from coming over the edge. What a rush to see and experience. All night long I was a little worried about water lapping over the edge where we were camping.

Also paddled around in a boat in the man-made Cienega de Santa Clara, runoff water from American irrigation that is too low quality to put back into the river, but it has created an amazing birder's paradise.

We then headed over to San Felipe and hooked up with the boats to go to the clam beds. They were amazing, but it really enlightened me on how the damming of the Colorado is killing the Sea of Cortez. A hundred years ago, there were grizzly bears on the delta. It is amazing the power of man.

All this was in July - not the best time to visit Baja.

I'll dig up some of the photos and post them sometime if interested,

Can't wait to go on one of the Baja trips someday ...

Jeff

[BajaTaco]

Jeff, excellent tales you are sharing with us! Hard to imagine steamers coming in from the Cortez, and traveling way up the Colorado to deliver supplies and people. Definitely share the pics if you have the time. That would be great. I have also read about the tidal bore there, and I can only imagine it - very cool that you got to experience that.

Grizzly's in the delta?? C'mon... could that be? It's all desert - have grizzlys ever inhabited lowland deserts? (other than to migrate?)

[jeffryscott]

Jeff, excellent tales you are sharing with us! Hard to imagine steamers coming in from the Cortez, and traveling way up the Colorado to deliver supplies and people. Definitely share the pics if you have the time. That would be great. I have also read about the tidal bore there, and I can only imagine it - very cool that you got to experience that.

Grizzly's in the delta?? C'mon... could that be? It's all desert - have grizzlys ever inhabited lowland deserts? (other than to migrate?)

Ahhh, but it wasn't desert. It was once lush riparian from the mighty Colorado. Aldo Leopold described it in A Sand County Almanac.

"All this wealth of fowl and fish was not for our delectation alone. Often we came upon a bobcat, flattened to some half-immersed driftwood log, paw poised for mullet. Families of raccoons waded the shallows, munching water beetles. Coyotes watched us from inland knolls, waiting to resume their breakfast of mesquite beans, varied, I suppose, by an occasional crippled shore bird, duck, or quail. At every shallow burrow were tracks of burro deer. We always examined these deer trails, hoping to find signs of the despot of the Delta, the great jaguar, el tigre."

I can't find the reference ot the bears, or maybe the reporter told me that from his reading of its history, or I confused bears with beavers (I found reference to them) those few years ago. At any rate, it was once a mighty place that no expedition vehicle - except a boat or foot - could get through.

"On the map the Delta was bisected by the river, but in fact the river was nowhere and everywhere, for he could not decide which of a hundred green lagoons offered the most pleasant and least speedy path to the Gulf."
--Aldo Leopold, from A Sand County Almanac, describing the Colorado River Delta as it existed in 1922

[blupaddler]

Chris,
I know that Grizzly's were found in So Cal. I forget when exactly the last one was shot. But they roamed this land for a long time.

[blupaddler]

Oh, Chris...

I like the new tires!!! I assume they are working well?!?! I was checkin' them out in Baja. They look nice. My BFG's are starting to have some chunks and chips. Still holding up, but, hard drivng = hard wear.

:ylsmoke:

[BajaTaco]

I don't doubt the lush riparian wilderness. And I don't doubt the bear used to live in SoCal, but I am skeptical of the grizz living at that altitude in that country. (mesquites?) I'm not disputing, just curious.

:lurk:

[BajaTaco]

Oh, Chris...

I like the new tires!!! I assume they are working well?!?! I was checkin' them out in Baja. They look nice. My BFG's are starting to have some chunks and chips. Still holding up, but, hard drivng = hard wear.

:ylsmoke:

Yea, I love em!! They survived the Baja trip very well. Now for some Arizona testing...

:jumping:

[awalter]

I've got a collection of over 70 books & 100 magazines & papers on Baja.

My 4 "must" books are:
The Baja Adventure Book by Walt Peterson.
The Baja Highway: Geology & Biology Field Guide by John Minch & Thomas Leslie.
Baja California Almanac.
Baja California Plant Field Guide by Norman Roberts.

Additional reference books:
Baja Hand Book by Joe Cummings.
There It Is: Baja by Mike McMahan.
Baja Legends by Greg Niemann.
Backroad Baja by Patti & Tom Higgenbotham.
The Cave Paintings of Baja California by Harry Crosby.
Los Misiones Antiguas The Spanish Missions of Baja California by Edward Vernon.

Chuck,
A couple of Books you will find interesting on Kayaking are:
Wind Water Sun by Ed Darack.
Kayaking The Vermillion Sea by Jonathon Waterman.

[Ursidae69]

I've got a collection of over 70 books & 100 magazines & papers on Baja.

My 4 "must" books are:
The Baja Adventure Book by Walt Peterson.
The Baja Highway: Geology & Biology Field Guide by John Minch & Thomas Leslie.
Baja California Almanac.
Baja California Plant Field Guide by Norman Roberts.

Additional reference books:
Baja Hand Book by Joe Cummings.
There It Is: Baja by Mike McMahan.
Baja Legends by Greg Niemann.
Backroad Baja by Patti & Tom Higgenbotham.
The Cave Paintings of Baja California by Harry Crosby.
Los Misiones Antiguas The Spanish Missions of Baja California by Edward Vernon.

Chuck,
A couple of Books you will find interesting on Kayaking are:
Wind Water Sun by Ed Darack.
Kayaking The Vermillion Sea by Jonathon Waterman.

Thanks Al, I love buying books! :jump: I see several here I must get!

[Darren]

Chris, I finally took the time to read this. Glad I did! As mentioned, this is another wonderful report and sweet picture gallery to go along with it. A couple of those meals looked rather tasty--minus the tomatoes! Well done, sir!

[BajaTaco]

Chris, I finally took the time to read this. Glad I did! As mentioned, this is another wonderful report and sweet picture gallery to go along with it. A couple of those meals looked rather tasty--minus the tomatoes! Well done, sir!

Thanks pal!

(note to self: next time camping with Darren, remember to leave the tomatoes at home) :p

[jeffryscott]

Chris and anybody interested, here's a better shot of the shell islands north of San Felipe ...

[BajaTaco]

That is cool!!!

Jeff, you should go to http://www.bajacaliforniaconservation.org/ and post these pics. I know Greg, the guy who runs the forum there, would really enjoy them.