Adventure Trailer Mod Thread

[Whoknows]

For those with AT trailer, thought it might be nice to include a thread to share modifications. I think we can benefit from each other's ideas.

Here are mine so far:

Installed some switched LEDs in the groove just under the main compartment lid.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2132.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2134.jpg

Did the same in the groove behind the lid for the kitchen compartment - put in two different strips of LEDs under main compartment and the stove.

I really like this mod -- great light output, low power consumption, and they are safe from damage, placed in the groove.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2015.jpg


I noticed quite a number of chips -- down to bare metal with just a few trips on rocky roads. Installed diamond plate for the areas on side compartment that are prone to chips.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2136b.jpg

No pics on this one, but you can easily visualize ----- I drilled an extra set of holes on the ladder of my roof top tent. Since the ladder was intended for roof of a vehicle, I have never used anything but the shortest extension holes. And, a time or two, I've been on uneven ground -- with higher ground just under the ladder. That creates a less than full extension of the platform, which doesn't allow the hinge to fully seat, not to mention an uneven sleeping surface.

[flywgn]

Great thread idea. Thanks for starting it.

I like your LED mods. Think I'll do the same. We're in the beginning 'design' stage of ladder handles at the top. Having the ladder simply end at the deck is a bit uncomfortable for egress and ingress. I have a fabricator around the corner looking at some drawings I dropped off. The handles will be folding 'wings' to assist us older folks. :)

No chips on ours, but we have a protective coating that seems to ward off rocks. I'm also testing a collapsible tripod for the solar panel to allow for easier tracking.

We have a couple of other minor things. I'll try to get some pix to post.

Allen R

[shawkins]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2134.jpg
That is a great use of the 12V power outlet bracket! I will have to remember that.

[Whoknows]

Great thread idea. Thanks for starting it.

I like your LED mods. Think I'll do the same. We're in the beginning 'design' stage of ladder handles at the top. Having the ladder simply end at the deck is a bit uncomfortable for egress and ingress. I have a fabricator around the corner looking at some drawings I dropped off. The handles will be folding 'wings' to assist us older folks. :)

No chips on ours, but we have a protective coating that seems to ward off rocks. I'm also testing a collapsible tripod for the solar panel to allow for easier tracking.

We have a couple of other minor things. I'll try to get some pix to post.

Allen R

Would love to hear and see more about both of those mods when ready.

[Whoknows]

That is a great use of the 12V power outlet bracket! I will have to remember that.

Good eye! You must be familiar with these. I had one sitting around and had to buy another. It takes a bit of dremmeling to get the hole wide enough to hold the switch, which is from Radio Shack.

[Scott Brady]

Great idea for a thread. My update and mod efforts for Chaser #1 started yesterday. A complete retrofit to the new systems and some new "mod" ideas too. I think I will start a new thread for the build up though.

[taco2go]

This will be a great thread to follow.
Some ideas I am working on for the Chaser:
-Propane tank mount- possibly using the new Quick fist XLs, and the 'tall and skinny" 9lb Manchester tank.
-Hi-Lift mount on the angled edge of the lid, along the hinged side. A 48'' fits perfectly.
Pics to come

[spressomon]

Yeah: Great thread idea! And love your LED idea! Damn...more shyte for my list!

My Horizon boxes, propane tank, outside frame rails, etc. are pulverized/blasted from rocks kicked up from the rig. Gotta get the boxes Line-X'd or similar...and mud flaps on the rig to see if it will cut down some of the blasting.

Also I have noticed, in camp, bugs virtually ignore the LED lights...whereas the ARB flouro attracts them.

[Tucson T4R]

Yep, my KK uses LED strips and I also have found they don't seem to atttract bugs. Another nice plus. Where did you find your LED strips? I have breifly looked around but haven't found anything I liked yet. Yours look like just want I was wanting.

[Grim Reaper]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2135.jpg


KILROY WAS HERE!

[Whoknows]

KILROY WAS HERE!

Just couldn't quite get both my hands in the pic while holding the camera. :hehe:

[gillti]

Dig this thread. Can't wait to see more!:REOutArchery02:

[Andrew Walcker]

This one was a modification by Gillti (Tim) that I copied on my trailer. Pretty simple but effective, drill a hole thru the propane bottle mount and install a padlock. This is a must for when camping in the low rent district! :gunt:

[Andrew Walcker]

I just finished this one a few weekends ago. Basically bolted a sailboat cleat (West Marine) with Stainless hardware to the top of the cap for the water tank. The issue was that the cap was somtimes hard to remove (when hands are cold, change in altitude/pessure in tank, etc.) Makes removing/installing the cap a breeze and some bling to boot!

[Andrew Walcker]

This is a simple clamp from West Marine that simply holds my trash bag handles and keeps the rubish in check. The clamp is pretty close to a Quick Fist, but is made of hard plastic and has a large base area for the adhesive so I didn't need to drill holes.

[Andrew Walcker]

My favorite mod yet, CHEERS!!! :beer:

[Andrew Walcker]

Not really too much of a trailer mod, but I'll throw them in anyways. The first pic is a pair of lucky 4 dice on the schrader valve covers for the airbags. The second pic is the Stainless hooks that attach to the Defender's hitch for towing. I Plastic Dipped them and they are silent!

[gillti]

Andrew, I think the dipped hardware is one of the coolest things you have done so far. Very clean and useful.

You have more of those dice than anyone I have ever met! (I've seen your bike collection!:)
tjg

[spressomon]

I just finished this one a few weekends ago. Basically bolted a sailboat cleat (West Marine) with Stainless hardware to the top of the cap for the water tank. The issue was that the cap was somtimes hard to remove (when hands are cold, change in altitude/pessure in tank, etc.) Makes removing/installing the cap a breeze and some bling to boot!


I like it...I like it! Same issue...gonna be the same solution :)

Graci!

[Andrew Walcker]

Andrew, I think the dipped hardware is one of the coolest things you have done so far. Very clean and useful.

Thanks, you gotta be careful with the plastic dip because once you start, it's hard to stop! I actually went looking for other things to dip in the garage. I got in trouble when my wife caught me sticking the cat's paws in the can...:shakin:



You have more of those dice than anyone I have ever met! (I've seen your bike collection!:)
tjg

Yea, it's a sickness...but I did manage to break my dice streak and went with chrome skulls on the rims! I'm a sucka for the bling:costumed-smiley-007

[Andrew Walcker]

I like it...I like it! Same issue...gonna be the same solution :)

Graci!

The trick with this one is to not go too wide as the bolts will not fit on the underside of the cap. I went with a 5" sailboat cleat and it could not have been a better fit with were the bolts came out the bottom. I didn't even drill, just used an awl and punched through the plastic. I even set the cap upside down w/ water in it and it did not leak through the bolt holes.

[ntsqd]

Replying to another thread with links I stumbled on these lighting options:

Fluoresents (http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=itempg&itemid=6314&secid=68&linkon=subsection&linkid=426)
Maybe they're heavier duty than the RV stuff given the application?

LED Options (http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=itempg&itemid=16491&secid=68&linkon=subsection&linkid=426)

oooh, ooh, ooh check out these little cuties. (http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=itempg&itemid=23654&secid=68&linkon=subsection&linkid=113)

[spressomon]

I keep trying to find/figure out a propane heater that I can adapt for use in the ccccold weather months. I saw this...relativey small...could build a collapsible stand for it...use flex tubing to get the hot air into the tent. Any thoughts one way or the other?


http://www.rvstuffusa.com/dynatrailsfseriesfurnacesbysuburban.html

[Rezarf <><]

I keep trying to find/figure out a propane heater that I can adapt for use in the ccccold weather months. I saw this...relativey small...could build a collapsible stand for it...use flex tubing to get the hot air into the tent. Any thoughts one way or the other?


http://www.rvstuffusa.com/dynatrailsfseriesfurnacesbysuburban.html

I believe the folks who make the tiny propane hot water shower also make a tent safe heater. The name slips me now... "z" something.

I will try to track it down.

Rezarf <><

[Gear]

Zodi - www.zodi.com

[Andrew Walcker]

I keep trying to find/figure out a propane heater that I can adapt for use in the ccccold weather months. I saw this...relativey small...could build a collapsible stand for it...use flex tubing to get the hot air into the tent. Any thoughts one way or the other?


http://www.rvstuffusa.com/dynatrailsfseriesfurnacesbysuburban.html

I'm curious, did you look at/or have used the Zodi tent heater and decided to go in a different direction? I have a Zodi that I cut the battery clips off and soldered a cig lighter adapter onto so that I can plug it into the cig lighter recepetacle on the nose box of the AT. Still need to figure out how to tap it off the propane tank instead of using the smaller disposable canisters...

[spressomon]

I'm curious, did you look at/or have used the Zodi tent heater and decided to go in a different direction? I have a Zodi that I cut the battery clips off and soldered a cig lighter adapter onto so that I can plug it into the cig lighter recepetacle on the nose box of the AT. Still need to figure out how to tap it off the propane tank instead of using the smaller disposable canisters...


The Zodi would work...ideally it would need some kind of t-stat for overnight use. Then Zodi warns not to use overnight unattended...

[TheRoadie]

Still need to figure out how to tap it off the propane tank instead of using the smaller disposable canisters...Coleman, Texsport, Century and others make propane distribution poles to mount to a bulk cylinder and tap off sideways with hoses for grills, etc. And the top of the pole is a fitting like a disposable tank, so you can put on a lantern or a Zodi:

http://images.campingworld.com/is/image/CWI/20000/24903w.jpg

The Zodi tent heater turbine whine would sure keep the coyotes away at night, I'm not sure I could sleep through it.

[Rezarf <><]

I'm curious, did you look at/or have used the Zodi tent heater and decided to go in a different direction? I have a Zodi that I cut the battery clips off and soldered a cig lighter adapter onto so that I can plug it into the cig lighter recepetacle on the nose box of the AT. Still need to figure out how to tap it off the propane tank instead of using the smaller disposable canisters...

Andrew-

Mr. Heater sells about every single adapter you could ever need/want for hooking up propane stuff. They will have exactly what you are looking for. They make all kinds of patch hoses to go from the one pound tanks to whatever else you can think of.

Hope it helps.

Rezarf <><

[Andrew Walcker]

Thanks Roadie and Rezarf, great links and exactly how I was thinking of going with it. Your right, that little booger is loud! I guess you are not supposed to let it go all night, maybe that is the good part about the disposable canisters is that they run out and turn the Zodi off in the middle of the night.

[flywgn]

One of the items we had on the Conqueror was a 20'-diameter fly that covered the entire trailer, obviating any need for a fly cover on the tent entrance.

Today, we towed Harry over to a tarp fabricator and ordered a fly. We didn't give them the exact measurement yet because they told us that they had planned to order a roll of the material (a light-weight, waterproof, fire retardant, mildew-proof sort) anyway, but we figure that the overall measurements will be something near 16' X 20'.

While the awning is nice for those sunlit lunches en route, as well as the immediate shading anytime (right BT?), we miss the convenience of having overall protection from T-storms. It will also provide us with a windbreak (three panels that will extend downwards at an angle)...not to mention the fact that we could also deploy mosquito netting from the same hook-and-loop hem.

We're about a month away from the final product, but I'll let you know when it's done. At this point Adventure Trailers doesn't offer a fly as an option. :(

Allen R

[Whoknows]

Anyone use their tailgate as a table? Just curious. I've thought about it. Issues seem to be: a) height, b) cables on sides, c) need some type of insert like the cutting board insert on the kitchen lid (Horizon) to keep food from collecting around the inside door edges, and d) fridge slide out not accessible when eating.

[Casper]

Well, I haven't had much of a chance to do my mods to my trailer yet. However I do have many planned.
The one thing I have done is to finally mount my propain tank. I had a shop in Reno(Totally Off Road) modify a powertank bracket to fit the bigger size of a 4.2 pound propain tank. I then mounted it to the pasenger side rear on the chaser tailer. This way I can hook up my stove which sits on the AT shelf, and hook up my propain lanturn. I think it turned out great. If you where to pick up the bracket, it would be no problem to modify it on your own. Now, one to the pics.

Casper
:wings:

[DaktariEd]

A few weeks ago I mounted my solar panel on the roof of my Maggiolina Airland (which is mounted on my Horizon AT).

I modified the cabling just a tad, extending the feedline to the charge controller, to keep the output line less than 5 feet as recommended in the instructions.

The charge controller is mounted inside a small Plexiglas housing I made to give it a little weather resistance in case a few stray raindrops attack...most of the year unlikely.

The housing (to the back of which I attached magnets) is then moved to whichever battery I want to top off: the trailer, the secondary yellow-top in the Cruiser, or the primary yellow-top in the engine compartment.

I attached a short "pigtail" w/plug to both primary & secondary batteries, so all I have to do is plug it in....no clips or fiddling with other connectors. The pigtails have weather-resistant caps on the ends and connect to the side terminals with ring-connectors.

So far so good!
:sombrero:

[flywgn]

Here's the result of our "fly" project. The entire kit, including eight poles, pegs, and cords, weighs approximately 16 lbs.

We decided to have the final area be a 20' X 20' square and have grommets placed about every 24". The tarp is bound with a reinforced hem and is 5.5 oz wt, about half the weight of canvas.

For storing, we roll from two sides and then fold to the center. This allows for placement on the top of the tent and deploys itself in all four directions. Although we did not do so for the photo below, we can complete the folding in such a way that it will fit into the cargo box athwartship.

I don't think all eight poles are necessary, but they do give it added support.

Allen R

[BajaXplorer]

"athwartship"...WOW! :arabia:

Amy will be with me for B1K. Emergency comms and pit for DP Racing. Plan to stop by and see you and Diana.
LTNS,
BX

[Nuclear Redneck]

flywgn,

I noticed the extra propane tank in your picture. How many days are you getting out of a tank?

Thanks,

[kb7our]

Here's the result of our "fly" project. The entire kit, including eight poles, pegs, and cords, weighs approximately 16 lbs.
Allen R

Very nice! What would something like this cost? Any other color choices? Any advantage to using other geometries like a round shape?

[flywgn]

Amy will be with me for B1K... Plan to stop by and see you and Diana...

BX, it'll be good to see you both. We should be in house through 11/20. I'll send you an e-mail w/ more details. And, oh yeah, athwartship has a better ring than breadthways, doesn't it?


I noticed the extra propane tank in your picture. How many days are you getting out of a tank?

We don't know for certain. In addition to the stove we have a propane lantern that stems up from a coupling. We were out for five nights on the one tank and I neglected to check the amount it took to refill that tank. Negligence.


... What would something like this cost? Any other color choices? Any advantage to using other geometries like a round shape?

The tarp (material, tax, labor) was $376.30. I don't believe there is another color. We had a round shape on the Conqueror and have found that the square provides us with more options. Only a personal preference.

Allen R

[GunnIt]

This is cheap and easy way to get the trailer level at the campsite. Buy 2 of these at Walmart for $5
http://terrygunn.smugmug.com/photos/207364179-M.jpg
Put one on the front lid of the trailer.
http://terrygunn.smugmug.com/photos/207364091-M.jpg
Put the other on the side.
http://terrygunn.smugmug.com/photos/207364141-M.jpg

[flywgn]

Terry,

For some reason the photos don't show up on my screen—probably some electronic toggle switch that I haven't thrown—but I get the idea with levels.

My method is not as easy and needs replenishing each time. I spot "Harry" where we think is the most level, exit the vehicle, open the near-side panier, pour myself a neat shot (usually a double) of Wild Turkey, and set the tumbler with contents on top of the panier.

Voilà! A useful level. :friday:

Allen R

[GunnIt]

spressomon Has a really neat sink mod that belongs in this dead thread! Thanks spressomon for bringing it back to life.
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10694

[spressomon]

spressomon Has a really neat sink mod that belongs in this dead thread! Thanks spressomon for bringing it back to life.
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10694


Sorry about that...I forgot we had this thread!

[Whoknows]

Any updates on the sink? :chef:

[spressomon]

Any updates on the sink? :chef:


I'm starting to work on it again now that hunting season is over. I am trying to source a formed sink to hopefully cut down on the overall projected cost and also offer a better overall design. It's an easy fix if $$$ are not a factor :rolleyes:! Hopefully I'll have a handle on this thing in a couple weeks after I've had time to do more test fitting of options. So look for more news toward the latter part of this month.

[tdesanto]

:chowtime:

[adventureduo]

Pop-a-towel. Paper towel holder. Can be mounted basically anywhere and folds up and gets put in the kitchen when not in use. We've actually had one on the cruiser tire swingout for a while now. They work great.

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/8590/02080816191bh8.jpg

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8341/02080816211rn4.jpg

Camping world sells them..
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=35334&src=SRQB

[Whoknows]

For those who are part of the group buy for the new LED worklight , I'd be interested in where you plan to mount it, etc... especially Horizon owners. I'm wanting mine to be used as a camp light, so I will make it a switched light. I'm pondering a location near the front where it could illuminate the faucet and stove areas.

[Bergger]

I wanted some more organization to my Waeco 50L. Here is an easy $5 basket mod for your Waeco fridge. Not sure if it will work for Engel. It's a "Mainstays Home" slide out organizer found in the kitchen section at Walmart. It has two small coated wire baskets and a support stand. I simply zip tied the lower basket to the stand. I then spread the sides of the support frame so it fits over the handles on the Waeco basket. This suspends the whole think in the Waeco. The second basket simply rests on top and is supported by the frame, not the lower basket. You can remove the upper basket to get to the lower one and remove the whole thing to get to the bottom of the fridge. Standard beer bottles will still fit below but anything much taller will not.

The baskets and support frame
16539

The whole thing sitting in the Waeco Basket
16540

Sitting in the Fridge
16541

[Bergger]

I also was trying to figure out a solution to the sink by the faucet. It seemed to be a little more complicated than I really wanted to get. Being of limited engineering skills I got frustrated and just tossed this 11.4 quart rubbermaid wash basin up on the trailer. It landed between the water tank and the nose box. I then walked over and just pushed it down then turned the faucet 90 degrees. It fits perfect, compressed slightly, and full of water and dishes it will not fall out. I know it's not stainless steel but it is simple and effective and cheap.

16542

16543

[ntsqd]

Very nice! I like simple solutions. Wish I came up with them more often. An Engineering education can be a handicap at times.

[adventureduo]

I also was trying to figure out a solution to the sink by the faucet. It seemed to be a little more complicated than I really wanted to get. Being of limited engineering skills I got frustrated and just tossed this 11.4 quart rubbermaid wash basin up on the trailer. It landed between the water tank and the nose box. I then walked over and just pushed it down then turned the faucet 90 degrees. It fits perfect, compressed slightly, and full of water and dishes it will not fall out. I know it's not stainless steel but it is simple and effective and cheap.

16542

16543


That's awesome and CHEAP! I would go that route, but we have gas cans there.

[Bergger]

Yeah the cans would get in the way. When getting the trailer I decided to skip the cans there and keep my spare fuel on the truck. The void left there is a great spot fot additional large item storage and now the wash basin.

[upatree]

i hope i have attached pics of my kitchen sink. it was ez to build. less than $20 in parts. labor = me = free. a simpler attachment would be to use 2 bolts as studs an drill holes in upper edge of sink and attach with wing nuts. in that case all you would need are sink pan <$15 w/o drain, 2 bolts a couple of nuts etc. <$3 and a drill and drill bit which most everyone has. the sink pan i used is stamped USF and is cooking grade to go along w/M&M food grade cutting board. hope "youall" find this of use.

[adventureduo]

i hope i have attached pics of my kitchen sink. it was ez to build. less than $20 in parts. labor = me = free. a simpler attachment would be to use 2 bolts as studs an drill holes in upper edge of sink and attach with wing nuts. in that case all you would need are sink pan <$15 w/o drain, 2 bolts a couple of nuts etc. <$3 and a drill and drill bit which most everyone has. the sink pan i used is stamped USF and is cooking grade to go along w/M&M food grade cutting board. hope "youall" find this of use.

I like this! its perfect for what we need and is exactly what i've been planning. Where'd you get all the parts? The sink and the white bracket? Can you point us in the right direction?

[upatree]

Glad to hear you like it. The sinks are available at your local restaurant supply. They come in several sizes and depths. The one i used in aprox 10X14X4 inches. The drain was also purchased at rest sup but they also have the at lowes etc. The bracket was custom fabed by Form & Function Forge (thats me). Its just a 3/16 flat bar with 1/4 by 20tpi coupling nuts welded to the ends. There are two 1/4 by1X1welded to the bar and drilled and taped to 1/4 20. They act as stand offs and allow the bolts to come from inside the side box. A simpler way to attach would be to drill to hole just below the upper lip of the sink and matching holes in the side box. Then use 2 aprox 1" bolts from inside the box with 2 to 3 nuts on the bolts to secure the bolts to the box. You now have two fixed studs to slide your sink on to. A washer and a couple of wing nuts and your good to go. No welding or tapping! Should cost less than $25 total including the drain. Hope this is the into you need. If not let me know.

[adventureduo]

I got tired of walking over to the cruiser to "pop a top" (talk about lazy!). So there's a pop topper on the Horizon now. Wanted something different, so i went with a oldschool style popper and a grey cap bucket. The bucket is removeable and dish washer safe. I still may go stainless later (im not really into flashy stuff). Anyways on with the pics, it was scary drilling into the fresh paint :beer:

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8421/dsc00149fg8.jpg

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/3273/dsc00151df4.jpg

[elcoyote]

I feel a terrible thirst coming on :)

[Whoknows]

Looks like you've also installed the new LED worklight. I have one but haven't decided where it goes. How do you use yours and do you like where you have it?

Edit: On second look, that doesn't appear to be an LED. Same questions apply though.

[Willman]

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/3273/dsc00151df4.jpg


Did i miss something......


Where's the final shots of the new paint job????


:PROFSheriffHL:

[robert j. yates]

I feel a terrible thirst coming on :)

Mario......you don't need that for brandy bottles ;)

[elcoyote]

Touche

Mario......you don't need that for brandy bottles ;)

[DaktariEd]

I drove off without the threaded cap on my water tank a while back. Sloshed out 1/4 of my tank on the way.
Cheap and simple fix. Tap a screw in the cap, attach wire with crimp on electrical connectors.

http://www.geocities.com/daktaried/safari.gif

[adventureduo]

Looks like you've also installed the new LED worklight. I have one but haven't decided where it goes. How do you use yours and do you like where you have it?

Edit: On second look, that doesn't appear to be an LED. Same questions apply though.

Sorry for the late reply.

Yeah its a HELLA Matador (Halogen) and i love where it is. Works great for wrenching a on rig behind you at night, lighting up camp etc. It turns and tilts in all different positions so it easily works for whatever you need to do.

[adventureduo]

Did i miss something......


Where's the final shots of the new paint job????


:PROFSheriffHL:

Yes, i posted about it, .. you even replied.. but i guess you didn't see the final outcome.. go to the last 2 pages..

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13006

[adventureduo]

Moved the shovel that was mounted to the hi-lift with Quickfists from the Landcruiser to a oldschool style Conferr mount on the Horizon. Much more stout and it now locks along with my axe. My axe was locked away in the African Outback drawer. This particular shovel and axe only get used in camp only so this works perfect.

http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/21600/2479159970034696539S600x600Q85.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2479159970034696539gQCKHm)

http://inlinethumb15.webshots.com/18894/2805325310034696539S600x600Q85.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2805325310034696539maQqsy)

The shovel was mounted here..
http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/41946/2516140340034696539S600x600Q85.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2516140340034696539xJitoI)

http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/41233/2927230190034696539S600x600Q85.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2927230190034696539Cjedzr)

[Whoknows]

It took some time to decide where to mount the new AT worklight. I wanted to have it available for multiple uses. I ran a new wire from the junction box and put a switch just under the side box. I mounted it with nylon washers that allow it to swivel 360. This allows for it to be used as rear light for backing etc. as well as a camp light reflecting off of the awning. Best part is that it also illuminates the fridge!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2369.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2370.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2371.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2372.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t260/daveclem/IMG_2373.jpg

[Willman]

Yes, i posted about it, .. you even replied.. but i guess you didn't see the final outcome.. go to the last 2 pages..

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13006


Never saw the final outcome!

Sweet...looks great!

Thanks for the link!

:ylsmoke:

[pygmyowl]

My wife keeps complaining about it being to cold during many of our camping excursions and wanting something with hard sides to play cards in, namely a FWC, so instead I purchased the Rec Vee Panels to go with my 2.5M awning (by the way I have a like new 2M Eezi Awn Awning for sale if anyone is interested) and installed a Espar D4 diesel heater on my AT Horizon. I remember from and old Overland Journal that Scott Brady was going to do a write up on the install of one of these, but with his new rig, possibly this fell through the cracks (or at least I missed it), in any case I started researching it and bought a heater.

The install that my feeble mind came up with required that I remove the AT fuel can holders (I have plenty of room in the bed of my Tundra for spare fuel), and mounted the Espar unit (inside a 20mm Rocket Box) and a 10L Scepter can to hold the diesel in there place. I used the 10L Scepter, as the pulse fuel pump mounted more readily on top of the can than a 20L Scepter, and the thing is so efficient that a 10L is about all I would need. The fuel burn at high is .4/L Hr or about 20 hrs, and at medium .25/L hr or about 32 hours (and this assumes only 8L usable), and I can always refill the little 10L from a larger can if need be.

I used a hole saw cutter to cut a return air and heater holes in opposite sides of a 20mm Rocket box and ran the exhaust and combustion air intake out the bottom of the box and routed the lines opposite from where the RTT folds out. The D4 fit perfectly inside the Rocket box and is bolted in. I installed marine deck plates to close up the return air and heat holes, and the hole unit seals up real good for transport and I can place the lid on while it is running if say it is raining or snowing out to protect the unit.

The thermostat has a temperature sensor integrated in it, so I just take it up to the Eezi Awn 1800 tent on top of the Horizon or inside the awning with the three walls. Heating the tent up is way fast and you need to put it on low. Bringing up a fresh air return duct into the tent is most efficient, as then already warmed air is returned to the heater. You can also set the thermostat to fan mode only, and it blows in a surprising amount of air to help cool things down.

I wish Eezi Awn made a 4th panel for the Rec Vee Panel set up that would attach to a welt on their awning & zip to the other walls - they would have a killer app if they did. As it stands now you get a fair amount of cold air coming from under the vehicle, but the little heater with my attached ducting placed inside the "hootch" keeps it fairly warm inside, down to just below freezing. I'm going to try to come up with my own canvas for a 4th wall, but it is a bit of a problem.

The vast majority of folks couldn't justify one of these, as I have over $1,500 invested in it, along with the high altitude kit, but I can move it quite easily to a FWC shell model which I might purchase someday, or it would be fairly straight forward to order a new fuel pick up stick and plumb into a diesel tank if Toyota or some one ever comes out with a small diesel for a Taco, or something like that. In any case the build quality of the Espar unit is incredible and should last a long time.

Scott MacButch
--------------------
2006 Tundra Access Cab, Donahoe Coil Overs, ARB Sahara & HID, Warn M8000

[adventureduo]

Very cool heater option! Great work. :clapsmile

[kb7our]

Main components:

Black textured 3/8" ABS sheet (2 x 2) cut to 13 x 22

Stainless Steel table bracket kit

Brace underneath (probably not needed) cut from cannibalized cheapie clamp-on Ozark lantern/paper towel post

Stores flat in side box

Holds 2 wash tubs or whatever

Rests on front wheel jack for support

Pics to follow when feature is working again

*****Update: Added URL to some pics...

http://s421.photobucket.com/albums/pp293/kb7our/Horizon/

[Whoknows]

Sounds promising. Looking forward to pics.

[kb7our]

Still unable to post even small pics.

Wade

[ntsqd]

Go here (http://photobucket.com/), create an account (it's free), and then link them rather than uploading them. It's simple to do with copy/paste. Suggest starting out with dedicated folders for each project/topic. I didn't and now I've a mess.

[kb7our]

Go here (http://photobucket.com/), create an account (it's free), and then link them rather than uploading them. It's simple to do with copy/paste. Suggest starting out with dedicated folders for each project/topic. I didn't and now I've a mess.

Thanks ntsqd! That is exactly what I did - see URL in original email.

Wade

[ntsqd]

You're welcome!
Depending on how you want to present things you can grab the image code down on the right side and paste it here too.

http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp293/kb7our/Horizon/Shelf12.jpg

http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp293/kb7our/Horizon/Shelf12.jpg

[jbs]

Main components:

Black textured 3/8" ABS sheet (2 x 2) cut to 13 x 22

Stainless Steel table bracket kit

Brace underneath (probably not needed) cut from cannibalized cheapie clamp-on Ozark lantern/paper towel post

Stores flat in side box

Holds 2 wash tubs or whatever

Rests on front wheel jack for support

Pics to follow when feature is working again

*****Update: Added URL to some pics...

http://s421.photobucket.com/albums/pp293/kb7our/Horizon/

Very nice!
Where do you buy the hardware that you connect the shelf to the nose box with?
http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp293/kb7our/Horizon/Shelf2.jpg

[kb7our]

Very nice!
Where do you buy the hardware that you connect the shelf to the nose box with?
http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp293/kb7our/Horizon/Shelf2.jpg

340077 US$22.95 1 Removable Table Bracket 4 PcsKit Stainless Steel purchased from www.sailboatstuff.com. I did a bit of price shopping but you might still find a better price for 2 brackets.

The shelf ABS was purchased from Tap Plastics (cut to order for free) and is rough textured on one side which helps stop slipping of the tubs (or other items) when wet.

Screws on top side of shelf are countersunk.

The opposite side of the box could be used for a second shelf that could even extend out a few feet as a table if braced on the outside end and would store flat in left side box.

Wade

[boknows]

cheap and easy mod. I am kind of anal about keeping my tent clean and thought that putting some hooks up under the RTT would do the job. A quick search at the local hardware store turned up these. I attached to rails and they even fold in when I store the tent to keep from catching on the cover. Nothing fancy but it keeps the shoes or whatever out of the tent and dry.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/jasonbohannon_photos/Trailer/DSC02246.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/jasonbohannon_photos/Trailer/DSC02249.jpg

~Jason

[Whoknows]

Now that's a handy idea. Can you give some info on those little hooks? ---brand name or some info from the packaging. I've not seen them before.

[boknows]

3M Command Utility Hooks, you should be able to get them at your local hardware store but wally world sells them too. used them this weekend and they held my size twelves like a champ.

[cvcruiser]

Here is a table I made for the rear of my Chaser. I cut slots in the table for the cables. I made a arm/bracket not shown here that connects to the right upper cable bolt. This arm/bracket keeps the table from rocking back and forth. The bottom of the table has little holes where the door latch nipple ends slip into to keep it from moving around. I can post the bracket when I get the picture. I keep both the fender table and this one inside on the right side of the trailer standing upright.

Thanks

Chris

[Redline]

Nice. How much weight do you put on the tailgate?


Here is a table I made for the rear of my Chaser. I cut slots in the table for the cables. I made a arm/bracket not shown here that connects to the right upper cable bolt. This arm/bracket keeps the table from rocking back and forth. The bottom of the table has little holes where the door latch nipple ends slip into to keep it from moving around. I can post the bracket when I get the picture. I keep both the fender table and this one inside on the right side of the trailer standing upright.

Thanks

Chris

[cvcruiser]

Nice. How much weight do you put on the tailgate?

Not sure but I do know it held a lot of wine and liquor for a big camp trip. Basically it was the bar.

Chris

[tdesanto]

Nice. How much weight do you put on the tailgate?

I've had two Scepter water cans on there towards the end (that should equate to about 90 lbs. and it never seemed like it couldn't hold it.

[Redline]

90-100-lbs is a lot. I bet the wood adds support to the gate, and helps it. Maybe the only thing that might need reinforcing/improving would be the support lines?

[cvcruiser]

Nice. How much weight do you put on the tailgate?


I've stood on it before (180lbs) to adjust the Kelty Carport and it held me just fine.

[Redline]

Wow, those little cables can hold more than I thought (though maybe not rated for it).


I've stood on it before (180lbs) to adjust the Kelty Carport and it held me just fine.

[kb7our]

Mounted water cap helper

Diamond plated top of side boxes

Added billet aluminum lid grab handles (front and back)

Cheap/easy airbag length check (Gen II trailing arm)

[tdesanto]

Mounted water cap helper

Diamond plated top of side boxes

Added billet aluminum lid grab handles (front and back)

Cheap/easy airbag length check (Gen II trailing arm)

Thank you very much for posting these up.

The aluminum lid handles are an excellent idea. Where did you get them? and price?

Also, the airbag length check tool...absolutely brilliant. I'm going to have to see if I can add something like that to the latest suspension version. I don't remember there being anything to tie a cord to.

[kb7our]

Thank you very much for posting these up.

The aluminum lid handles are an excellent idea. Where did you get them? and price?

Also, the airbag length check tool...absolutely brilliant. I'm going to have to see if I can add something like that to the latest suspension version. I don't remember there being anything to tie a cord to.

Grab handle source attached. Not cheap but in my opinion a quality match and necessity for the trailer. Be careful with bolt spacing on the inside as there is a lip so you have to drill the holes closer to the top rather than exactly centered on the top lip otherwise you cannot get to the bolt heads to tighten.

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=grabshortsmooth

The gen 3 suspension may not have holes like the gen 2 mount but perhaps there is another way to suspend some cord cut and marked for proper airbag height.

[Sergeant_V]

I will be picking up a Chaser late April. :wings: Please share your propane tank mounting modifications. :lurk:

[Andrew Walcker]

I will be picking up a Chaser late April. :wings: Please share your propane tank mounting modifications. :lurk:

Glad you finally pulled the trigger and there is nothing sweater than a 90 pulling an AT :beer:

[adventureduo]

We already have a Zodi Extreme shower... but ever since i played with the quick release nozzle on the EW Tacoma i had to have one :D

Our latest mod.. available from AT..

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6238/img9371z.jpg

For now its not heated. Im most likely going to do a Helton heat exchanger from Cruiseroutfitters on the 80 and use a quick release setup to get heat when using it for the shower. The rest of the time it will be for cleaning dishes when we don't feel pumping the manual pump.

[Romer]

We already have a Zodi Extreme shower... but ever since i played with the quick release nozzle on the EW Tacoma i had to have one :D

Our latest mod.. available from AT..

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6238/img9371z.jpg

For now its not heated. Im most likely going to do a Helton heat exchanger from Cruiseroutfitters on the 80 and use a quick release setup to get heat when using it for the shower. The rest of the time it will be for cleaning dishes when we don't feel pumping the manual pump.

Thats a nice setup.

I have a Twain heat exchanger in my 80. It was great on the Rubicon. I have it plumbed so there is an input fitting on the passenfger side of my ARB and the output is on the drivers side, both up and away from being damaged by rocks.

I bought a 2.5gpm 12 v DC pump on the internet and a shower head setup with an on/off switch from camping world. Pretty high pressure setup and you control the temp via the in cabin heater controls.

Figured I would just dip the hose in the water tank or maybe fill and use 2 5gal water conntainers. Figured out you can take a pretty decent high pressure shower using about 4 gallons, shutting the water off when soaping up.