OEM steel wheels are there 2 different types?

I bought a used set of toyota steel wheels (16 hole black) At first glance they look just like the spare that came with my 2006 toyota tacoma. The plan was to put some BFG KM2 255/85 16 tires on them (which I have seen many other trucks running.) Droped off the rims at the tire shop and they mounted the tires. They then told me I needed new lugs to run them (which I agreed too since I had the factory alloy wheels on there before) They then tell me the rear wheels fit fine but the fronts are hitting the brake calipers. I went out to take a look and they were hitting top and bottom of caliper. After close inspection The wheels are just slightly different. They have dimples between the lug holes and appear to have a smooth inner ring where as my tacoma one has a slight bump on the inner ring. I hadent heard there were 2 types of these wheels in that size? anyone clairfy?

Pics show the rims that dont fit.
 

timber

Adventurer
I dont know if this helps but these are what I run on my 2007 Tacoma with 255/85/16s, you can see the holes adjacent to the valve stem are oblong rather than round. When I bought them the guy said they were off a 2005 tundra and he said something about the back spacing being a little different. I use the same lugnuts for both the alloys and these steel wheels, they look funny on the steelies but work fine. I think there are at least 3 different 16" steel wheels Toyota has out like this that at first glance look the same but are all a little different.
IMG00057-20091201-1027.jpg
 

Tim A

Adventurer
Those are possibly Chevy wheels? Chevys have the same 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern but their wheels are hub centric meaning the wheels use the hub to center the wheels. Toyotas use lug centric wheels which use the lugnuts to center the wheel. Whether the above issue would cause the wheel to not clear the caliper, well I don't know about that.
 

cruiseroutfit

Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
There are several versions of the standard steel wheel offerings, wish I knew the lineage.

FWIW, Toyota has used both lugcentric and hubcentric
 

Ludedude

Adventurer
Those are possibly Chevy wheels? Chevys have the same 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern but their wheels are hub centric meaning the wheels use the hub to center the wheels. Toyotas use lug centric wheels which use the lugnuts to center the wheel. Whether the above issue would cause the wheel to not clear the caliper, well I don't know about that.

While not steel, the factory alloy wheels on my 4Runner are most certainly hub centric.
 

Tim A

Adventurer
FWIW, Toyota has used both lugcentric and hubcentric

Thanks for clarifying that Kurt. It's possible that the OP's Toyota wheels are hub centric since you could not use the lugnuts from your lug centric OEM alloys?

OP-you COULD think about shaving your calipers with a grinding wheel..not the ideal solution but it may enable you to run these particular wheels.
 

Tim A

Adventurer
While not steel, the factory alloy wheels on my 4Runner are most certainly hub centric.

OK thanks for the correction. I should have said that OEM Tacoma alloy wheels are lug centric since that is the truck in question.
 

keezer37

Explorer
Well, this is no great hope for your issue either but just FYI; These are my 17" found on FJs which will of course clear your calipers. I don't know how deep your into this financially but I just thought I'd give you a little more info.
More FYI: The OE alloys that come on Tacoma have 5.25" backspacing (at least the Sport wheels do. Not sure about the Off Road style) which sucks as it puts your tires very close to your upper control arms amongst other things. These 17" steels have 4.5" which happily bring your wheel out away from the truck .75". Backspacing is the distance from the mating surface of the wheel to the edge of the wheel.
Crawl under your truck. Look at how much clearance you have. Crank the steering wheel both ways and look at clearance.
If the center hole fits snug on the hub, it's hubcentric. Lugcentric are typically found on aftermarket wheels. Say for example Toyota and Chevy have the same six bolt lug pattern but Toyota wheels have a larger hub. The wheel manufacturer will make one wheel with the larger diameter hole to accommodate the Toyota and sell it as a wheel that also fits the Chevy (my opinion). Cheaper for the manufacturer but the poor guy with the Chevy has to rely on the lugs alone to keep the wheel true. Typically he'll think his wheels are out of balance when they are not.
Acorn style lugs (what was given to you) are for steel wheels. The shoulder type are for alloys that inset.

WheelNewPaint.jpg
 
well tires have already been purchased and sitting in the garage. 255/85 16s so I will be sticking with the 16" rim. It looks like the rims I have will not work so Im on the hunt for a set of Factory toyota steelies that will fit the tacoma. Im a little bummed I didnt know there were several different types (one of which doesnt work) and of course I ended up with those. I do know they fit earlier 4 runners so again more info I didnt know.

Its a learning experience thats for sure!
 

plainjaneFJC

Deplorable
Keezer you bent that wheel pretty good.
Well, this is no great hope for your issue either but just FYI; These are my 17" found on FJs which will of course clear your calipers. I don't know how deep your into this financially but I just thought I'd give you a little more info.
More FYI: The OE alloys that come on Tacoma have 5.25" backspacing (at least the Sport wheels do. Not sure about the Off Road style) which sucks as it puts your tires very close to your upper control arms amongst other things. These 17" steels have 4.5" which happily bring your wheel out away from the truck .75". Backspacing is the distance from the mating surface of the wheel to the edge of the wheel.
Crawl under your truck. Look at how much clearance you have. Crank the steering wheel both ways and look at clearance.
If the center hole fits snug on the hub, it's hubcentric. Lugcentric are typically found on aftermarket wheels. Say for example Toyota and Chevy have the same six bolt lug pattern but Toyota wheels have a larger hub. The wheel manufacturer will make one wheel with the larger diameter hole to accommodate the Toyota and sell it as a wheel that also fits the Chevy (my opinion). Cheaper for the manufacturer but the poor guy with the Chevy has to rely on the lugs alone to keep the wheel true. Typically he'll think his wheels are out of balance when they are not.
Acorn style lugs (what was given to you) are for steel wheels. The shoulder type are for alloys that inset.

WheelNewPaint.jpg
 
:Wow1: where were you when I bought these wheels? Oh well going to have the tires put on my factory alloys till I find a real set of 16 hole wheels
 

keezer37

Explorer
Keezer you bent that wheel pretty good.

Yeah. That was a Triple Lutz I did on the highway and bounced off a cable railing. Shortly thereafter, I bought new tires. I'm a big fan of tires with lots of siping now.

I tried to beat it out with a short handled sledge and my beefiest drift punch. Nothing doing.
 

toy51

New member
these came from an FJ Cruiser, and there are no oval cutouts, just uniform circles. 4.5" backspacing, and definitely hub-centric. and man are these things heavy.

DSC00655 - Version 2.jpg
 

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