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wilson
12-14-2011, 02:20 AM
Im looking to put a complete old man emu lift kit on my 07 tacoma. I am also looking to put an aluminum relentless fab bumper and a couple lights on it at some point. Now, this bumper only weighs 55lbs according to the site. with this a relatively of weight do you feel it is even necessary to get the middle (firm) configuration meant for a steel bumper?

zolo
12-14-2011, 02:34 AM
Yep, the stock springs are way soft.
They drive better with a stiffer spring.
Even stock or with a light bumper the ride quality up front is an improvement.

keezer37
12-14-2011, 03:05 AM
Buy the bumper first and use the behavior of the stock coils as a point of reference for purchasing your aftermarket coils.

wilson
12-14-2011, 03:25 AM
hmmmm... maybe I should be more clear about what I'm asking. the OME lift comes in three load rating of front coils.

1. stock bumper
2 aftermarket steel bumper
3 steel bumper and winch
* at least I read that somewhere

what do you think the cut-off weight would be to move from the 1st option to second option?

zolo
12-14-2011, 03:43 AM
Actually the stock struts and coils are pretty weak.

The medium load OME springs are a good choice.

The real question is what load will you be running constantly in the bed? As the newer Tacoma has a plastic bed and the OME springs can be a bit harsh with no load in the bed at all.

But for the front they ride better with a stiffer set up. So Light bumper on the front.
Id say the medium set up would be good.

Id give Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters a call. He is a dealer and savy on the different load ratings.

wilson
12-14-2011, 03:53 AM
thanks for the feedback everyone,
my constant load in the back would be snug top shell and front runner roof rack. I'd say 250-300lbs. Ive taken the truck fully loaded for a 3-4 day trip through the scales and fully loaded with two adults I'm packin' 700 additional pounds.

zolo
12-14-2011, 04:05 AM
Well Id say with a shell and rack the OME leaf springs and shocks will be nice and not over kill.

A great thing to do while your back there changing the springs would be to buy a u bolt flip kit.
I run an All Pro kit. Its simple and a great way to clean up the bottom of the axle for off road use.

Cheers and post up some pics and feed back on what you end up with.

DirectDrive
12-14-2011, 06:16 AM
The OP is considering a full OME kit so forget all the talk about stock suspension parts. They go away with a full OME kit.

The best way to discuss this is to use spring part numbers instead of light, medium etc. This could have a different meaning from one vendor to another.

The front OME springs commonly used for the 2nd gen Taco are :

884 = 590#
885 = 590# + 10mm longer
886 = 660#

Front:
I don't see enough info on your rig, so I'll guess 4x4 w/V6
For your rig, I would go with the 885 springs. You will get about a 2-1/2" lift with those.
The freshest kits are shipping with 885x (revised spring) and #90000 strut (upgrade from 140S)
886 is designed for a heavy steel bumper and winch (+200#)....you won't have enough weight up front.
You can add a 10mm or 13mm top spacer later if you want a little more height later, after the springs break in.
As you get above 3" with these 2nd gen Tacos, the half shafts get into an undesirable angle condition.
2-1/2" is a good target height.

Some report contact between the new coilovers and the anti-swaybar. There is a sway bar spacer kit for that issue.

There is a phenomenon called "Taco Lean". With the fuel tank, battery and driver on the left side many of these rigs exhibit the "Lean". There is an OME part called a "trim packer" that corrects for this. It's a special 1/4" spacer that goes on top of the driver's side spring seat prior to assembly.

The last item on the front is alignment. You lose caster adjustment when you lift the vehicle.
The fix is to go to an aftermarket Upper Control Arm. These restore caster adjustment.
The best deal on an adjustable UCA's is from Amazon $380 shipped. It's a Specialty Parts Co./Light Racing part.
The alignment numbers to pursue with a this lift are:

toe around 0*
camber around 0*
caster between 2.4 & 3.1*

Rear:
The simplest solution here is to simply go with the excellent OME Dakar springs and the matched N182 shocks.
This will get you about a 2-3/4" lift.
This will be fine with your "plastic bed" :) It's actually a rugged resin material that can be drilled and tapped for various goodies. The bed rail (similar to Unistrut) can be adapted to for heavier goodies like HiLift jacks, shovels, etc.

The other two solutions for the rear would be using an Add-A-Leaf in your present packs.
You either have a standard (2+1) pack or a "TSB" (3+1) pack.
If you are under warranty, you can complain of a "harsh ride" when loaded and Toyota will install the heavier springs, free of charge.
There are two types of AAL's one is for non-TSB and the other is for TSB springs.

Carrier Bearing Drop Kit this spacers your carrier bearing down to improve driveline angles if you get vibrations.
If you are a single cab you have a one-piece driveline and this does not apply.

Right now the best place to buy this kit is probably ToyTec.....they understand Tacos and have everything you need.
They will price match the Amazon deal on the UCA's.
If you're a member of Tacoma World forum you will get a discount as well.
They do phone as well as online....call to get your price adjustments.
You should get your struts assembled free with the full kit !

Good choice and good luck with the lift !

zolo
12-14-2011, 02:11 PM
DirectDrive.....WOW you know so much...I bet and I might be reaching here. That you work at ToyTec.




















Rugged Resin Material....uhm plastic.

Owyhee H
12-14-2011, 02:53 PM
DirectDrive.....WOW you know so much...I bet and I might be reaching here. That you work at ToyTec.

If he works at Toytec or not his info is good. The OME suspension is really nice and you will notice a much more controled ride. I think with the light relentless bumper you will like the 590# spring rate of the 883/884/885 coils. You may not need upper control arms either, I started with about 2.5" of lift and did NOT need aftermarket upper control arms, YMMV. Definelty use at least one trimpacker, I used one and have a little lean still. The OME rear shocks are amazing as well, even if you use an add a leaf the ride will be fine. Reasons for using an add a leaf would be cheaper $$ and you can still increase the carrying ability (not capacity) but with less lift.

zolo
12-14-2011, 03:04 PM
If he works at Toytec or not his info is good. The OME suspension is really nice and you will notice a much more controled ride. I think with the light relentless bumper you will like the 590# spring rate of the 883/884/885 coils. You may not need upper control arms either, I started with about 2.5" of lift and did NOT need aftermarket upper control arms, YMMV. Definelty use at least one trimpacker, I used one and have a little lean still. The OME rear shocks are amazing as well, even if you use an add a leaf the ride will be fine. Reasons for using an add a leaf would be cheaper $$ and you can still increase the carrying ability (not capacity) but with less lift.

No doubt his info is great. Its pretty much all the OP needs to know. As much info as possible will help him get the ride quality he wants. I just like being a smart *** sometimes....Well most times:sombrero:

Cheers, I guess Ive been spending to much time over at ADVrider....

Owyhee H
12-14-2011, 03:07 PM
No doubt his info is great. Its pretty much all the OP needs to know. As much info as possible will help him get the ride quality he wants. I just like being a smart *** sometimes....Well most times:sombrero:

Cheers, I guess Ive been spending to much time over at ADVrider....

It came across clear, I enjoy a little smartassness. I might have come across too seriously.

DirectDrive
12-14-2011, 06:00 PM
DirectDrive.....WOW you know so much...I bet and I might be reaching here. That you work at ToyTec.
No I don't work for Toy Tec !! They should give me another discount after that spiel though, huh ? :)
I'm a simple carpenter that studies the product before the purchase. I just rec'd delivery of the above kit after a long study, mostly at Tacoma World because of the huge "Tacoma lift results" sampling over there.




Rugged Resin Material....uhm plastic.
No, it is definitely not UHMW. It is a resin material, Toyota claims. It "powderizes" when you drill it.
UHMW acts "moist" when you machine it. Long shavings,etc. I'm a carp and sometimes I have to machine UHMW :)
The bed material is harder and more resistant to scratching than UHMW. That's the first thing I noticed.
It has nothing in common with any other plastic that I've been around. It is a unique material, to be sure.

I think if you dig into the Toyota propaganda you will find the word resin in reference to the new beds.

DirectDrive
12-14-2011, 06:13 PM
No doubt his info is great. Its pretty much all the OP needs to know. As much info as possible will help him get the ride quality he wants. I just like being a smart *** sometimes....Well most times:sombrero:

Cheers, I guess Ive been spending to much time over at ADVrider....
I see that you are a bunch of wiseasses over here :)
I did have to tell ya to STFU about the stock parts.....that might have set the tone.....yep I'm a wiseass myself :)

Tacoma World attracts a lot of kids that are into "looks". I'll take wiseasses that know their sh!t any day.
(there are some sharp Taco guys over at TW, too)

zolo
12-14-2011, 07:04 PM
Actually I was agreeing about the stock parts being crap. As I stated it twice.

Resin or Plastic either way the point was the bed is light as hell and when you add the rear leafs with zero load it drives terrible.
I have drilled plenty into the bed and its done some crazy stuff to me. Cracked, turned to powder. Also the metal bed sides are light and pretty much a joke. They need to be protected.
I liked my stock bed so much after I removed it, the bed found a new home behind my shop holding the air down.

So some load as the OP stated he has is a good thing and the truck will ride very nice.

As for the Tacoma world kids. Well who cares.

DirectDrive
12-14-2011, 07:11 PM
You may not need upper control arms either, I started with about 2.5" of lift and did NOT need aftermarket upper control arms, YMMV.
It is certainly possible to omit the aftermarket UCA's and see how it drives after the lift. Add it later if needed.


Out of a ton of samplings, I have never seen it reported that stock caster adjustment was achieved with a 2-1/2" lift on a Taco.
Good camber and toe adjustments can be achieved with the lift.
Some have decided to live with the less than ideal caster.

It would be interesting to see your post-lift alignment report ?

Owyhee H
12-14-2011, 07:16 PM
I will try to find the report. I know that the Caster was not ideal but it was in the acceptable range, and it drove great. I opted to go to a lower lift, for many reasons. I really like the way my truck handles with 1.5" of lift and stock size tires. I think I can go wherever I need with this current setup.

DirectDrive
12-14-2011, 07:37 PM
I will try to find the report. I know that the Caster was not ideal but it was in the acceptable range, and it drove great. I opted to go to a lower lift, for many reasons. I really like the way my truck handles with 1.5" of lift and stock size tires. I think I can go wherever I need with this current setup.
Well, if it drives great, that is the final test.
Numbers are just numbers sometimes.

DirectDrive
12-14-2011, 08:04 PM
Actually I was agreeing about the stock parts being crap. As I stated it twice.
The OP was not asking about the stock stuff. He wanted to know OME specifics and put the discussion back on track in post #4.
I made my comment to try to keep it there.


Resin or Plastic either way the point was the bed is light as hell and when you add the rear leafs with zero load it drives terrible.
I have drilled plenty into the bed and its done some crazy stuff to me. Cracked, turned to powder. Also the metal bed sides are light and pretty much a joke. They need to be protected.
I liked my stock bed so much after I removed it, the bed found a new home behind my shop holding the air down.
You said it was UHMW. I said it was not. And it is not UHMW.
Any empty pickup bed is going to be light. Doesn't matter what it's made out of.
Shocks need to be matched to the spring rate that they serve.


As for the Tacoma world kids. Well who cares.
There are a few very knowledgeable Tacoma guys over there and they are in their 40's, 50's and 60's believe it or not.
Outside of Toyota, I don't think that there is a deeper Tacoma data base anywhere. And I'm talking about TSB's, structural items and useful mods, NOT BLING.

Now let it go :)

upcountry
12-15-2011, 02:41 AM
Well this blew up quick. Do what makes you happy. OmE is a great product. We all agree. Now hug and make up.

DirectDrive
12-15-2011, 03:03 AM
Well this blew up quick. Do what makes you happy. OmE is a great product. We all agree. Now hug and make up.
Alright, group hug. :wings:
Hopefully the OP was both helped and entertained. :sombrero:

upcountry
12-15-2011, 03:30 PM
Just for the record, I have found Tacoma World to be a great resource with lots of detailed technical info. I also must say there are some real idiots over there that jack threads. I have been banned twice from Tacoma World for speaking my mind to these idiots. It seems the moderators have worked hard at trying to clean it up, and I have not had that experience in a while under my new screen name.

But, I must also say that the Expo forum is more in line with my interests as I am true gear whore I feel I fit in well here, and this forum is more focused on the whole experience of off-road travel.

DirectDrive
12-15-2011, 04:46 PM
Just for the record, I have found Tacoma World to be a great resource with lots of detailed technical info. I also must say there are some real idiots over there that jack threads. I have been banned twice from Tacoma World for speaking my mind to these idiots. It seems the moderators have worked hard at trying to clean it up, and I have not had that experience in a while under my new screen name.

But, I must also say that the Expo forum is more in line with my interests as I am true gear whore I feel I fit in well here, and this forum is more focused on the whole experience of off-road travel.
Agree 100%
There are some real dipwads over there at TW and there are some very knowledgeable Taco folks as well.
I learned about the suspension TSB there and got my free leaf springs just for the asking. Also learned much about Tacoma lifting.
There are also some excellent small shop, Tacoma-specific fabricators the use TW as their storefront......sliders, skids, etc.

I also like off road and primitive camping and Ex Po is a great resource for that.

zolo
12-15-2011, 05:33 PM
The OP was not asking about the stock stuff. He wanted to know OME specifics and put the discussion back on track in post #4.
I made my comment to try to keep it there.


You said it was UHMW. I said it was not. And it is not UHMW.
Any empty pickup bed is going to be light. Doesn't matter what it's made out of.
Shocks need to be matched to the spring rate that they serve.


There are a few very knowledgeable Tacoma guys over there and they are in their 40's, 50's and 60's believe it or not.
Outside of Toyota, I don't think that there is a deeper Tacoma data base anywhere. And I'm talking about TSB's, structural items and useful mods, NOT BLING.

Now let it go :)


Let it go? Even though you keep acting like an angry child that has to be right every time.

You must think I'm about the Bling cause you keep bringing it up??? Wonder why?

You also stated "KIDS" as for the Tacoma World forum. I was just sticking with the word kids you introduced.


I'm not really sure why you are acting this way.
Please stop trying to play Forum police. You have info so do I.

DirectDrive
12-15-2011, 06:34 PM
Dood, do the group hug.
It's over.

:smiley_drive:

zolo
12-15-2011, 09:07 PM
No hug....Not even a little...Dood

wilson
01-01-2012, 02:02 AM
Thanks for all the HELPFUL replies!I believe I have found all the info I was looking for. I could probably do without the squabbling...

4xdog
01-01-2012, 02:41 AM
Thanks for the discussion on OME options for Tacomas. An OME upgrade was easy on my old XJ. Not quite so easy for my current 2001 Tacoma, so all this info helps understand how to think about it.

Also, the 2nd generation Tacoma beds are made from glass fiber-reinforced sheet molding compound (SMC), IIRC. The resin -- or plastic, if you like -- the semantics are kinda flexible -- is usually unsaturated polyester. This is the same stuff heavy truck body panels are made of and not that different from some boats and shower enclosures.

It's a thermoset polymer, which means it won't melt and can't be reshaped with heat and pressure like a thermoplastic polymer can. Its highly filled with minerals like calcium carbonate in addition to the glass fiber for dimensional stability and high Young's modulus.

Words like resin and plastic are kinda loose terms in polymer science. They can both be used for the same things. It seems Toyota use the word resin to indicate the nonmelting/cured nature of the molding compound. Not wrong at all.

Don

bat
01-01-2012, 04:32 AM
Look into the UCA not only for alignment but for adding some extension of the front suspension. It all about personal taste I am not a fan of OME shocks but do like there leaf springs.

wilson
01-01-2012, 04:40 AM
another thing, are extended brake lines required?

DirectDrive
01-01-2012, 07:30 AM
another thing, are extended brake lines required?
With a 2-1/2" - 3" lift on a 2nd gen Taco most do not. I would take a look afterwards to verify that there's slack present.

upcountry
01-01-2012, 05:05 PM
Switching to stainless braided regardless of lift will improve braking power and is a good cheap upgrade ragardless of the lift height. Over 3" and you need extended lines especially the rear. Its easy to do yourself just rent a brake pump to bleed them properly.

wilson
01-02-2012, 11:55 PM
10-4. thanks fellas!

keezer37
01-03-2012, 01:34 AM
Brake Pump

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab323/Yoderandhisbuggy/BrakeBleed.jpg

Hose on bleeder screw, a inch or two of fluid in the jug, pump the pedal, watch for cessation of bubbles.

DirectDrive
01-03-2012, 05:06 PM
Brake Pump

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab323/Yoderandhisbuggy/BrakeBleed.jpg

Hose on bleeder screw, a inch or two of fluid in the jug, pump the pedal, watch for cessation of bubbles.
Done that, works well.
I think that one poster was talking about pushing from the master and blowing everything out at once.

upcountry
01-04-2012, 02:06 PM
Was talking about using a brake pump to properly bleed brakes by myself with no help. Brake pumps offer a quick easy bleeding for a one man job without having to jump in and out of the vehicle. They are cheap to rent and save a lot of time. I used to use the bucket method and pump the pedal but once you use a brake pump you'll never go back.

wilson
03-06-2012, 01:12 AM
anyone have experience with these? My taco leans and it drives me crazy. i would like to remedy this when I install this lift.
can anyone tell me if one will be enough?
Are they stackable?
there a way to tell how many I would need prior to building the strut?
I'd like to avoid rebuilding the strut to insert another.

Plannerman
03-06-2012, 07:24 AM
So how much lift does a properly tuned OME set up provide for a second gen Taco? I see 2 1/2 inches listed above, the ARB website says 2 in., and I read some old ARB literature that says 2.85 in.

wilson
03-18-2012, 06:16 PM
Good question, I'm hoping for the lower end of the spectrum.

cruiseroutfit
03-18-2012, 11:03 PM
anyone have experience with these? My taco leans and it drives me crazy. i would like to remedy this when I install this lift.
can anyone tell me if one will be enough?
Are they stackable?
there a way to tell how many I would need prior to building the strut?
I'd like to avoid rebuilding the strut to insert another.

Generally speaking, no trim spacer is needed for a side to side level stance. My recommendation is to install the suspension spec'd for your truck and needs and deal with any lean issues in 3-6 months after the suspension has settled in. Its an 1-1.5 hour job to add a spacer and in fact for 5mm spacer (nets ~1/4+ at the wheel) you could deal with a top out spacer that wouldn't require complete dis-assembly of the strut. That said I'd prefer the use of the OME intended 5mm spacer. Spacers should not be stacked but you can run a strut (preload) spacer in conjunction with a top-out spacer so long as you accommodate for the added down travel offered by use of the top out. 1st Gen Tacoma's are cheap and easy to install a diff drop kit thus I would recommend that particularly if using a top out spacer.